Search Results for: Bahrain

Officially known as the Kingdom of Bahrain in Arabic ‘Mamlakat al-Bahrayn,’ Bahrain, the Arabic word, means two seas or two sources of water. There are places in the north where fresh water bubbles up in the middle of the salt water! Bahrain is an Island archipelago of 33 islands located in the Persian Gulf. She is the smallest country in the Middle East of just 257 square miles. Her neighbors are Saudi Arabia and Qatar. The King Fahd Causeway joins Saudi Arabia and Bahrain; it offers a spectacular scenic drive, especially as the sun is setting.

The country is mostly Muslim, run by Sunni’s, even though Shiite's comprise the majority of her people. Her constitution guarantees religious freedom and so there are also several churches and temples. She is an oil based economy, with the first oil in the Arabian Gulf discovered there in 1932. Also notable, Bahrain is a very important financial center for the Arab world. Before she was known for oil, she was prized for her spectacular pearls harvested by the many pearl divers. ,

It is said that Bahrain holds resemblance to an ancient area called Dilmun, which many scholars believe was the site of the Garden of Eden. Today there is a 400 year old mesquite tree that is a major tourist attraction. It is called the ‘Tree of Life,’ and it sits alone, engulfed by the desert landscape, with no known water source.

In the past, Manama, the capital city of Bahrain, was ruled by Portugal and the Persian Empire. More recently, Bahrain gained her independence from England in 1971, by the signing of a friendship treaty that terminated previous agreements between the two factions.

Bahrain can produce only a small amount of its needed food supply, as just one percent of this small country’s land is arable. Even so, she produces dates, bananas, citrus fruits, pomegranates, mangoes, cucumbers and tomatoes. There are only a few thousand head of cattle, goats and sheep but fresh fish from the Persian Gulf abound.

The essence of Bahraini cuisine is largely Middle Eastern. The national dish is a spiced chicken and rice dish called Machboos ala Dujaj. This dish uses a popular spice blend, called Baharat. The blend includes cardamom, coriander, cumin, peppercorns, cinnamon, nutmeg and paprika. I chose to make this dish for our main course so you can enjoy the complexity and richness of these flavors.

So let’s journey to Bahrain

The Menu

Appetizer
Baba Ghanoush

(An eggplant, tahini and olive dish)

served with

Khubz Arabi
(fresh baked flat bread)

Salad
Arabic Salad
(Cucumber, tomato, shallot & parsley salad served with lemon oil vinaigrette)

Main Course
Machboos ala Dujaj
(Bahraini Spiced Chicken and Rice)

Dessert
Dates, stuffed with a cranberry and almond cream cheese

The table centerpiece was set using racing flags, as Bahrain was the first Middle Eastern country to build a track and host a Formula One auto race. This was a fun motif for me as I used to be the general manager for a vintage car racing organization, and my husband was a championship racer in it. Needless to say, we are big auto racing fans. I can’t tell you how many times we would wake up at 4:30 am on a Sunday to watch the Formula One race on television. Thank goodness for DVR’s today!

Red and white were used as the table colors representing Bahrain’s flag. We began the meal with Gahwa (coffee) as that is the traditional welcome in Bahrain. The coffee is served in small cups called finjan. We only used our right hand for eating, drinking and passing the plates, as would be customary there.

The appetizer, Baba Ghanoush, was absolutely delicious with the homemade bread called Khubz. (I am really enjoying the different varieties of breads from the countries we have journeyed and Bahrain is no exception.) The bread puffs up during cooking making a pocket, sort of like a pita bread. It went beautifully with the eggplant, tahini and olives as our first course.

Next, the fresh Arabic salad and the main course were served family style and both were incredible. The spices of the Machboos were savory and intense and the fresh Arabic salad was the perfect complement.

We concluded our meal with stuffed dates (which have become one of my favorites,) they are so sweet and delicious and the perfect way to end our meal, while leisurely sipping our gahwa. We then shook our cups from side to side indicating we were full and satisfied.

I leave you with, how to say goodbye to your host, in Arabic,
You would say:
Ma’a salama  “Peace be with you”
Your host would say:
Alla ysalmak  “may Allah protect you”

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

How did Saudi Arabia get its name?

Saudi Arabia is the only country in the world named after a family.  The Al-Sauds have traced their origins back to the 1700s, when Saud bin Mohammad ruled as a local sheikh on the central Arabian peninsula.  The official name is the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Where is Saudi Arabia Located?

Saudi Arabia is located in the Middle East.  It is a desert country that encompasses most of Arabian peninsula. It is large, about 830,000 square miles, and is the 13^th largest country in the world.  It has two coastlines, with a total length of 1640 miles; the Red Sea and the Persian or (Arabian) gulf coastlines.

It has many neighbors: Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south.  It is separated from Israel and Egypt by the Gulf of Aqaba.

Despite most of the land being an uninhabited desert, which includes the world’s largest contiguous sand desert, called the Empty Quarter, it also has hills and mountains in the west and southwest along the Red Sea.  The highest peak is Jabal Sawda which rises 9,843 feet above sea level. The country has no natural lakes or rivers.

Riyadh is the capital and home to more than 8 million people, making it the most populous city in the country.  It is located in the center of the Arabian peninsula on a large plateau.

A Brief History of Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia can trace its roots back to the earliest civilizations of the Arabian peninsula.  Over the centuries, it played an important role in trade but it is best known as the birthplace of Islam; the world’s second largest religion after Christianity.  Prior to the 7^th century, most of Saudi Arabia was inhabited by nomadic tribes.  It was Muhammad, the prophet of Islam, who was born in Mecca that united many of these tribes.  After his death in 632, his Arab followers began to expand the area of Muslim rule well beyond Arabia.

In the 16^th century, the Ottoman Empire took over, taking control of both coasts along the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf.  It was in the 18^th century when the House of Saud began to emerge as a power.  Muhammad bin Saud started the dynasty along with Muhammad ibn Adb-dl-Wahhad, a religious leader and the founder of the Wahhabi movement.  They stayed in power until the Ottomans regained control in 1818.  This alliance, formed in the 18^th century, provided the ideological impetus to Saudi expansion and remains the basis of the dynastic rule today.  At this time, another family, the Al Rashid, also came into power.  In 1902, Abul-Aziz bin Saud returned from exile in Kuwait and seized Riyadh, ousting the Al Rashid and uniting the kingdom.

Saudi Arabia became an independent nation after the Ottoman Empire was defeated in World War I.  Abdul-Aziz bin Saud regained power.  In 1932 the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was established with Abdul-Aziz as king.  He set up Saudi Arabia as an absolute monarchy and has remained in power with six of his sons in succession, poised to reign over the kingdom. The king of Saudi Arabia is also known as the custodian of the Two Holy Mosques.  Saudi Arabia is home to Islam’s holiest shrines in Mecca; one where the prophet Muhammad was born and Medina, where he was buried.

Saudi Arabia struck oil in 1938 and by 1949 was in full production.  This began under the US-controlled Aramco (Arabian American Oil Company.)  The discovery of oil reserves made Saudi Arabia one of the richest nations in the world.  They are the world’s largest oil producer and exporter of oil, controlling the world’s second largest oil reserves, and the sixth largest gas reserves.

In February 1945, King Abdul Aziz met with President Franklin D. Roosevelt aboard the USS Quincy in the Suez Canal.  A historic handshake, agreeing to supply the US with oil in exchange for guaranteed protection to the Saudi regime, is still in force to this day.  This agreement has survived seven Saudi Kings and twelve US presidents.

In 1960 Saudi Arabia became a founding member of OPEC (Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries.)  In 1973, Saudi Arabia led an oil boycott against western countries that supported Israel during the October, Yom Kipur War with Egypt and Syria.  Oil prices quadrupled.  In 1980, Saudi Arabia took full control of Aramco from the US.

In 1994 the Islamic dissident, Osama Bin Laden, was stripped of his Saudi nationality and started the terror group known as Al-Qaeda in Afghanistan.  On September 11, 2001 they staged the worst terror attack ever committed on US soil.  Planes were purposely flown into the World Trade Center in New York and the Pentagon in Washington, D.C.  Fifteen of the nineteen hijackers involved in the attack were Saudi nationals.

In 2011, the whole area in the Middle East was dealing with unrest, known as the Arab Spring.  In an effort to keep the unrest at bay, King Abdullah announced increased welfare spending and more rights for women, including the right to vote and to run in municipal elections.  This made Saudi Arabia the last country in the world to give women the right to vote.

The current leader is King Salman, however, his son, Prince Mohammad bin Salman, who is next in line to the throne, is believed to be the driving force behind Saudi reforms.  He has recently allowed women the right to get a driver’s license, and has allowed the return of public cinema.  However, the world was recently horrified over the killing and dismemberment of a reporter named Jamal Khashoggi, that occurred in the Saudi consulate in Turkey.  There has been an international outcry as a result and we are waiting to see what happens next.

The Saudis have also been funding a war in nearby Yemen.  Saudi Arabia is supporting the coalition (which is also supported by other nations, including the United States of America,) in fighting the Houthi rebels, which, since 2015, has resulted in a horrific civil war.  Yemen remains in the middle of a humanitarian catastrophe, yet it has been dubbed the forgotten war.

Saudi Arabian Culture

Saudi Arabia has a population of about 33 million people.  Its primary ethnic group is Arab and the main religion is Sunni Islam.  The country’s currency is the Riyal, which is tied to the US dollar.  The official language is Arabic.

The rich culture of Saudi Arabia takes its cues from its Islamic heritage.  Its historical role is as an ancient trade center and it upholds its Bedouin traditions.  The country is run by Sharia law and all of its holidays are based on the Islamic religion.

The highlights of the year are the holy month of Ramadan, a time in which they fast from dusk till dawn and which ends with the Eid-Al-Fitr, a holiday where families and friends exchange gifts.  Additionally, the hajj (pilgrimage) season, culminates with Eid-Al-Adha, when families slaughter a sheep in memory of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son, and then they share the meat with the poor.  The hajj is a mandatory, religious duty for all Muslims to visit the holiest city of Mecca.  This must be carried out once in their lifetime.  The pilgrimage is considered to be one of the five pillars of Islam.

The country is 100% Muslim, except for the foreigners who are brought there for work, which accounts for some 9 million people.  There is no freedom of religion.  The Islamic teachings and Arab customs are taught in schools at an early age.

As the birthplace of Islam, the Kingdom places a special emphasis on preserving its Islamic archeological heritage.  The two most important sites are the Holy Mosque in Mecca and the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina.   Minarets are the most visible, man-made, structures in Saudi Arabia.  They jut from the skyline of every urban center.  The minarets are meant to be a Muslim society’s bond with God.  The reason they rise above all other structures is to allow the call to prayer to be heard, which occurs five times per day.

Poetry, folk music and dancing are a living piece of the country’s history, which has been shaped by the nomadic Bedouins for centuries.  The national dance is the men’s sword dance, known as the Ardha.  Men carrying swords stand in two lines or in a circle, with a poet singing in their midst, while they perform the traditional dance.

Saudis prefer traditional clothes to western styles.  The loose flowing, traditional garments are practical for the Kingdom’s hot and windy climate, as well as in keeping with the Islamic ideal of modesty.  Men wear a typical white, ankle length shirt called a thawb.  On their heads they wear a large square of cotton that is folded over a skull cap and held in place with a cord.  Women customarily wear a black outer cloak, called an abaya, over their dress, which very likely is modern.  On their heads they wear a black, gauzy scarf that is wrapped around the head and called a shayla.  Some women wear veils made of sheer material, which has been a tradition even before the advent of Islam.  The thin veil provides protection from constant exposure to the sun.  Today, a veil is also a sign of modesty and virtue.  Jewelry has also been part of the Arabian dress for thousands of years.

Saudi Arabian Cuisine

Nearly all types of cuisines, including fast foods, are available in this wealthy nation, but the Saudis prefer traditional foods.  Also, despite the area only receiving about 4 inches of rain per year, they have managed to become food independent, and have developed a strong agriculture sector, producing all their own dairy and vegetables. They have built very deep wells and desalinization plants to provide for an ample water supply.

As Saudi Arabia is an Islamic state, pork and alcohol are forbidden.  Animals must be butchered according to Islamic law and blessed before they are eaten.  Saudi Arabia is the largest importer of live sheep and ranks as the highest consumer of broiler chickens.  Lamb is traditionally served to honored guests and for special occasions.  Camel is also consumed, as is its milk, which has long been a staple of the Bedouin diet.  The largest camel market in the world, selling a 100 head of camel a day, can be found in the capital city of Riyadh.  Yogurt is used in sauces, eaten alone and made into a drink called lassi.

The main ingredients in their diet are fava beans, wheat, rice, yogurt and of course dates.  Saudi Arabia has over 18 million date palms that produce 600 million pounds of dates each year.  Flat breads, called fatir or kimaje, which are similar to a pita, are used as utensils to scoop up their meal.  Thick soups are popular, as are stuffed vegetables, bean salads and tabbouleh, a salad made with bulgur wheat.

Often times, dates, dried fruits and nuts, along with sweet tea, are served as appetizers or snacks and sweet desserts are enjoyed at the end of meal.  Coffee, called gawha, is a centuries old tradition and served in tiny coffee cups.  It is considered very rude to refuse a cup of coffee and it should always be enjoyed in odd numbers.  Coffee houses are gathering spots for many Saudi men.

Spices such as cardamom, saffron, cumin, coriander, cinnamon and cloves are all prevalent in Saudi cuisine.   They also enjoy eating foods with a serving of a super spicy sauce, called shattah.

So let’s enjoy a Saudi Arabian meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Akkawi Manakeesh (Arabic Cheese Bread with Nigella Seeds)

Main Course

Al Kabsa (Spiced Rice and Chicken)

Served with

Shattah (Spicy Hot Sauce)

Dessert

Ma’amul (Short Biscuits, Stuffed with Dates and Nuts)

We set the scene by placing a rug on the floor, as it is tradition to eat on the floor in a cross-legged position.  To decorate, we added palm fronds, dates and a sword, to represent the fight of Abd-al-Aziz.  A traditional coffee pot, along with a calligraphy pen was added, as calligraphy is a beloved art form there that dates back some 1400 years, to the first century of Islam.  Because its primary subject matter has been the Holy Qur’an, calligraphy is considered to be the quintessential Islamic art form.  An Arabian horse figurine was also placed, as they have a long history of breeding horses there.

We began the meal with a hand washing ritual, which is customary.  We then said, “Sahtain” which basically means, “Bon appetite” and “Bismillah,” which means, “In the name of God.”  Our first course was a scrumptious little cheese bread.  It was made with a flat bread and a salty cheese called akkawi.  The cheese comes in a brine and is rinsed to remove the salt before serving.  It was topped with nigella seeds and baked in a hot oven, similar to a pizza.  I also made another version that was topped with a spice mixture  called za-atar.  We loved them both!  We ate the bread with just our right hand, which is the socially acceptable tradition there.

For the main course, we savored the national dish called Al Kabsa.  It was reminiscent of other rice dishes I have made previously from the region; such as machboos, from Bahrain or murabyan, from Kuwait.  This was a spiced rice, with chicken dish but what made this one special, was the very, spicy sauce called shittah.  The sauce was served on the side.  To me, it truly elevated the dish and I will make that spicy sauce accompaniment often.

For dessert we had a very popular Arabic cookie, called Ma’amul.  It is a bit dry, like a short biscuit, but with a lovely nut and date interior.  They were baked in a ma’amul mold, which makes a lovely decoration for the cookie.  They were then covered with powdered sugar and rose petals.  The cookies went great with a robust, little cup of Arabic coffee.

When we finished our meal, we said “Diamah,” which means “May there always be plenty at your table.”  The Saudis are known for their generous hospitality to guests and strangers.  If you ever get the opportunity to experience this hospitality, you should definitely take part.

Until next time,

Darlene

How did Qatar get its name?

The origin of the name Qatar is uncertain.  However, it dates back at least 2000 years.  A term catharrei, was used by Pliny the Elder, in the 1^st century AD to describe the inhabitants of the peninsula.  The Catara peninsula was depicted on a map by Ptolemy, in the 2^nd century AD.  The Capital City of Doha may have gotten its name from the Arabic word Ad-Dawha, meaning “the big tree”; a reference to the prominent tree that stood at the site of the original fishing village.

Where is Qatar located?

The small peninsula jets out about 525 feet north into the Persian Gulf from the Arabian Peninsula, making it a sub peninsula.  Qatar has a small land border with Saudi Arabia to the southwest and they share maritime borders with the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Iran.  Its northwest coast lies just thirty kilometers, or 19 miles from Bahrain.

Qatar is generally a barren land.  It has a dry, subtropical, desert climate, with low annual rainfall and blistering hot and humid summers.   Much of the country consists of sand dunes and salt flats, with only scattered vegetation.  There is a small range of hills in the northwest, the highest point reaching just 328 feet.  The coastline has a number of beautiful sandy beaches, the best of which lie in the north and west.  Due to the topography, Qatar is susceptible to intense sand storms.

A Brief History of Qatar

Qatar has been occupied by humans for at least 50,000 years.  Stone Age encampments and tools have been unearthed on the small sub peninsula.  It fell under the domain of numerous empires during its early years of settlement.  In 628 AD the population was introduced to Islam.  By the 8^th century it became a pearl trading center.

In 1783, Arab tribes conquered Bahrain and the Al Khalifa imposed their authority over both Bahrain and Qatar.  After a war broke out, the British installed the religious ruler, Muhammad ibn Thani-al-Thani, the head of a leading Qatari family.  In 1893, the Ottomans who expanded their Empire into the area, made incursions into Qatar.  They withdrew from the area after the beginning of World War I, in 1913.

In 1916, Qatar became a British Protectorate and Abdullah Al Thani was put into power.  The Al-Thani family has been in control of Qatar ever since.  The country is run as a constitutional monarchy.  It gained independence from Britain on September 3, 1971.  Oil was discovered in the 1940s, bringing great wealth to the country.  Oil and gas make up 85% of the GDP.  Today Qatar is one of the richest nations on earth, based on per capita GDP.  There are no taxes in Qatar and the people get free health care, education (including higher education) and a corporate tax rate of 10% as a flat tax.  Women were allowed to vote in 1999, at the same time as men.  It wasn’t until 2003 that it was put into the constitution.  Qatari women make up about ½ of the labor force, which is above the world average and among the highest in the Arab world.

In 2003, Qatar became the nerve center in the US-led military campaign in Iraq.  In 2010 Qatar won the bid to host the 2022 Fifa World Cup.  They are spending billions of dollars to get ready for it, with new hotels, buildings and infrastructure.

In recent times, there has been a diplomatic crisis due to its neighbors Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, as well as the UAE and Egypt, which have imposed an air, land and sea blockade.  They are hoping Qatar will cut its alleged connections with terrorism and distance itself from Iran.  Qatar which is known to have the best airline in the world, has to avoid these air spaces in its flight patterns.

Qatar Culture

Qatar has about 2.6 million inhabitants.  However, foreign workers, mainly from India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan and the Philippines make up 88% of the population.  Qatari nationals make up the other 12% of the population.  Its culture can be traced back to three main influences: the desert, the sea and Islam.  The desert, Bedouin culture is intrinsic to Qatari identity.  Arabic is the official language, although English is widely spoken as well.

The Arabian Peninsula is one of the last places in the world where falconry is still actively practiced.  In fact, this 5000 year old tradition was introduced by the Bedouin as an effective means of hunting.  Today the practice is a national heritage and passed down from generation to generation.  In the famous Souq Waquif there is a falcon hospital where falcons can be bought and sold for thousands of dollars.  Some birds are even issued their own passports to prevent them from being taken out of the country illegally.

Camel racing is known as the “sport of sheikhs” and is big business in Qatar, with races held on nearly every Friday.  Today the riders are robotic jockeys and some of their best camels can cost more than luxury cars.

Poetry and storytelling remains an integral part of the Bedouin culture.  Nabati poems, which are a source of local tribal pride, are regularly broadcast on Qatari TV and radio as part of their cultural heritage.  By the way, Qatar is home to Al Jazeera, a very popular news station, worldwide.

Qataris are very proud of their maritime traditions, which are based around pearl diving, fishing and boat making.  Their folk music lyrics are closely associated with the sea, describing pearl diving, the hoisting of sails and rowing.  These folk songs are normally sung together, as the traditional sailors would have sung them.  Each year there is a dhow festival that celebrates not only the boats but all aspects of the old sailors.

It is Islam, however, where most of the cultural traditions are found.  Traditional dress for example requires modesty by both males and females in the public realm.  The thobe, is a long white robe typically worn by men, along with a head covering, known as the gutra, which is held in place by a black rope called an agal.  Women wear a black robe called an abaya and a head covering called a shayla.

The Islamic month of Ramadan is widely revered in Qatar.  Fasting is required during daylight hours, so all the restaurants are closed during the day.  About 67% of the population of Qatar are Sunni Muslims with a few Shiites as well.  Islamic instruction is compulsory of Muslims in all state-sponsored schools.  Despite Islam being the state religion in Qatar, they do have freedom of association in their constitution.  Both Muslims and non-Muslims are tried under the unified court system which incorporates both secular law and Sharia law.  The Islamic holy days of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are national holidays.

Why Visit Qatar?

Doha, the capital city, is the highlight of this quickly growing nation.  It is home to a spectacular modern skyline, one of the best Museums of Islamic Art in the world, plus a fine traditional souq with a burgeoning arts and culinary scene.  Being one of the richest nations on earth, here you can find the finest of everything.

As Qatar prepares to host the FIFA 2022 world cup, they are building at a stunning rate, adding new parks, buildings, high speed rail and gigantic stadiums.  Watching the sunset over the sand dunes will make you feel as though your Arabian fairy tales have come true.  Whether you are sand dune bashing or sleeping out in the dessert with camels, experiencing an authentic Bedouin meal along with traditional music is a dream come true, and you can find it all in Qatar.

They also have a stunning waterfront promenade called the Corniche, which lies on the Doha Bay in an elegant crescent shape.  The Corniche is a beautiful place to walk and see their famous dhow boats.  The Qatari people pride themselves on their Arabian hospitality.

Qatari Cuisine

Qatar has very little arable land, so most all of their food must be imported.  The sea provides for locally caught fish, which is always plentiful and is prominent in their cuisine.  As the country has become world class, nearly every conceivable type of cuisine can be found there.  However, they pride themselves on keeping the local traditions and foods alive.  The cuisine is heavily influenced by the cultures of the peninsula, as well as India, Iran, the Levant and North Africa.

Machbus is considered to be the national dish, as it is for its neighbor, Bahrain.  Machbus can be made with chicken, seafood, or meat.  Mutton served with yogurt is another staple, as is ghuzi, in which a whole roasted lamb is served on a bed of rice and nuts.  Goat and sheep are also very popular meats in the cuisine.  Dates are grown locally and are often served with a cup of Kazak tea or coffee as a means of showing their hospitality.  Pork and alcohol are forbidden in Qatar, unless served in an international hotel. The best places to experience an authentic Qatari meal are in Souq Waqif or Katara.

So let’s enjoy a Qatari meal:

The Menu

Starter

Warak Enab (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Main Course

Harees (Beaten Wheat and Chicken)

Khubz Arabi (Arabian Bread)

Dessert

Esh Asaraya (Sweet Bread with Cream)

Served with Karak Tea (Spiced Tea with Milk)

We set our table with a small carpet, placed on the floor, with cushions.  It is customary to sit on the floor in a cross legged position to eat a traditional Qatari meal and to use only the right hand.  It is believed that eating in this sitting position, aids digestion, and the movement of reaching for the food and going back to a straight posture, helps with arthritis.

We decorated with a statue of an oryx, their national animal that lives in the desert there.  A picture of a falcon  was placed to signify their national bird.  Dates were added, as they are the national fruit, along with pearls to represent their pearl diving heritage and a little can of oil, to symbolize their great wealth.

Our first course was stuffed grape leaf bundles, filled with sweet, lamb meat, herbs and spices.  With one bite we were immediately transported to the region.  Stuffed grape leaves are a loved tradition in many of the countries surrounding Qatar.

For the main course, we had harees, which is a hearty, beaten wheat and chicken dish, quite similar to the dish we had for Oman, called madrouba, (which was a beaten rice and chicken dish.)  The harees are seasoned with ghee and toasted coriander.  It is a true comfort food and each heavenly bite was scooped up with the Khubz Arabi (Arabian bread).

For dessert we enjoyed the sweet bread and cream dish called esh asaraya.  It was topped with pistachios and was a lovely, sweet end to our Qatari meal.  We enjoyed our dessert with their Karak tea; milk tea with a hint of cardamom; a true delight.  Coffee and tea are always served to guests in Qatar and when you are finished, you simply shake you cup from side to side to let the hostess know you are satisfied.

As we say goodbye to this little nation of Qatar, I leave you with a quote from their tourism board.

Qatar

“A land that understands, a traveler can never be a stranger, just a friend not yet met.  That ultimately everyone is on their own journey, seeking the warmth of a friendly embrace, unique experiences, new stories to share.  Where a meal is not a meal unless it is shared.  A land rooted in ancient cultures, authentic soul, where past learning informs contemporary vision.  Progressive spirit ignites new futures.  A land offering enlightenment, invigoration and inspiration through its warmth of soul and spirit of vision.”

Until next time,

Shukran (That’s “thank you”, in Arabic)

Darlene

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The name Kuwait comes from the Arabic words “akwat” and “kout”, which translates to “Fortress built near water.”  Kuwait is a small emirate on the Arabian Peninsula, located in the northwestern corner of the Persian Gulf.  Her neighbors are Iraq to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the south and the Persian Gulf to the east.  This country is tiny in size, but one of the richest on earth.  The country is run as a constitutional monarchy that the ruling family, Al Sabah, established back in 1756.  What began as a small trading fort, has grown to be one of the most urbanized countries in the world.

Kuwait, in addition to the mainland, comprises nine islands, only one of which is inhabited, called Failaka.  Mesopotamians first settled on this Kuwait island back in 2000 B.C.  The inhabitants were among the world’s earliest maritime traders.  The island was also once occupied by Alexander the Great.  In the eighteen century, Kuwait enjoyed rapid prosperity and became the principle commercial center for the transit of goods between India, Muscat, Baghdad and Arabia.  Kuwait was also the center for ship building in the Persian region. Their vessels were renowned throughout the Indian Ocean and they soon developed a reputation as the best sailors in the Gulf.  They also operated a significant pearl harvesting industry.

In 1899, the Shiekh Mubarak “the Great”, was fearful of a takeover by Turkey, during the time of the Ottoman Empire, and struck a deal with Britain to become a protectorate.  Britain provided naval protection in exchange for Kuwait’s agreement not to enter into treaties with other powers, or admit foreign agents, nor cede any part of its territory, without British consent.  In November 1914, Britain recognized Kuwait as an independent emirate that benefited from British Protection.  In the late 1930s, Kuwait struck oil and as circumstances radically changed due to the country’s riches, a new friendship agreement was signed.  Kuwait gained independence on June 19, 1961.  Sheikh Abdullah Al-Salem was credited for Kuwait’s independence.  After his death in 1965, National Day was created and is celebrated on February 25^th, the date on which Abdullah ascended to the throne, in 1950.  Previously, Kuwait celebrated their independence on June 19.  (Perhaps that date was changed because it is just too hot to have a celebration in June.)

Kuwait is a low lying, arid land, with a desert climate.  It is extremely hot and dry in the summer, which is long, and temperatures range from 108 to 118 degrees Fahrenheit.  Winters are short and can get colder than other Gulf country, due to its northern exposure.  The desert land is mainly sandy and barren.  They suffer from frequent sand and dust storms throughout the year, but they are most prominent from March to August.  There are no lakes or rivers in Kuwait.  There is also very little rainfall, only 2 to 6 inches per year.  Kuwait gets almost all of its water for drinking and domestic purposes from their large and sophisticated desalination plants.  The first plant was established in 1953.  The water is stored in 33 different towers known as the “The mushroom towers,” named for their unique mushroom, shape design.  Each tower holds 3000 cubic meters of water.  They are strategically placed throughout Kuwait City and serve as landmarks for their districts.  The design is so unique that it won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture, in 1980.

Kuwait supported Iraq during the Iran-Iraq war, yet in 1990, Saddam Hussein tried to annex Kuwait with an invasion.  His regime was upset that Kuwait was flooding the market with oil and driving the price down.  A US led United Nations’ coalition was formed that drove out Iraq, and the war was ended in 1991.  February 26^th is celebrated as Liberation Day.  However, the effects of war on Kuwait were horrendous.  Many of the oil fields were set on fire and it took time and effort for Kuwait to return to prosperity.  The oil reserves in Kuwait account for ten percent of the world’s oil and nearly all of Kuwait’s GDP.  Although Kuwait has tried to diversify to be less dependent on the oil revenue stream, it remains dependent even today. They do have a vigorous shipping industry, as well as financial services, but oil is their main income.

The Kuwaiti dinar is the highest valued currency in the world.  The Kuwaitis are generous in foreign, economic assistance through the Kuwait Fund for Arab Economic Development.  They also have a sovereign wealth fund which has directed investments into the United States, Europe and Asia, where holdings are estimated to be $592 billion, in assets.  They are considered to be one of the more progressive Middle Eastern countries regarding free speech and women’s rights.  Although they have a ways to go, women were given the right to vote and to run for elections, back in 2005.  Authorities in Kuwait monitor internet communications and block content deemed offensive.  Press laws prohibit any references against God, the Koran, the Prophet Mohammed and the Emir.

The nation is made up of less than half Kuwaiti citizens, as it has a massive immigration problem.  Many people have sought Kuwait as a place to work and live, due to its incredible wealth.  It is the fourth richest nation in the world.  Being a Kuwaiti citizen has many financial benefits.  They are given an allowance from birth with free education through college.  They will often pay its citizens to study at universities in other countries, which includes room and board.  Housing is also subsidized, if not free, as well as healthcare.  This causes a rift between the immigrants and those who are considered citizens, as the rules to become a citizen are very difficult and this has created instability within the government.

The ethnic makeup of Kuwait is 60% Arab; Indians and Egyptians are the largest expat communities, with Iranians and South Asians making up most of the balance.  The main religion in Kuwait is Sunni Muslim, with some Shi’a and other religions in the mix.  Alcohol is illegal in Kuwait and pork is not consumed.  Arabic is the official language and English is taught as a second language.

As we look into the cuisine of Kuwait, it is influenced largely by the wealth of the nation.  Due to the arid dessert landscape and lack of water, not much grows in Kuwait.  They do grow some grains, fruits and nuts but other imports are prevalent.  Nearly all international types of cuisine can be found in the capital of Kuwait City.  However, it is the Arab Gulf cuisine that is considered Kuwaiti cuisine, with influences from Arabian, Persian, Indian and Mediterranean cuisines.  Lamb, beef and chicken are all readily available and usually served with basmati rice that is flavored with baharat, an Arabic spice blend.  Soups and salads are served with most meals, as well as khubz, an Iranian flat bread.  Fish and seafood are also a mainstay as they are located on the Gulf.  The typical spices, aside from baharat, are coriander, cardamom and saffron (the most expensive spice in the world.)  Machboos is considered the national dish. (We made machboos to represent Bahrain and the delicious recipe can be found under that country.)  Interestingly, they have an obesity problem in Kuwait, ranking eighth in the world.  Perhaps it is due to the serving size; Kuwaitis are known to always serve an abundance of food.

So let’s eat a Kuwaiti meal:

The Menu

 Soup

Shaurabat Adas (Red Lentil Soup)

Served with

Sultat Basita Kuwaiti Simple Salad

Kabees El Lift (Pickled Turnips)

Main Dish

 Murabyan (Shrimp and Rice)

Dessert

 Elbah (Vanilla Custard)

We decorated with the colors of the Kuwait flag; green, white, red and black.  Little yellow flowers were strewn about, representing the national flower, the Arfaj.  We added pearls, to symbolize a robust pearling industry, a ship, signifying their shipping talents and an oil can, denoting their wealth. The coat of arms, featuring a falcon (their national bird) and a camel (their national animal), was also included.  Dates and saffron strands completed the scene.

Our first course was a tasty, red lentil soup, common to the Arabian Gulf.  The soup was flavored with baharat, coriander, turmeric and loomi, (A dried black lime that imparts a unique flavor to Arab cuisine.) Lentil soup is hearty and could easily be a meal by itself, with a little flat bread.  It is best served with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Our next course was a Kuwaiti simple salad.  The salad was a typical green salad; made with romaine lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and onion, then dressed with a bit of lemon juice and oil.  What made it so special, was adding the pickled turnips.  (I am now officially in love with them.)  They are crunchy, salty, wonderful tidbits that have a bit of an earthy flavor, from the beets with which they are pickled.  The color is a bright pink.  They are found as a side dish on most tables, throughout the region.

For the main dish, (since we had already made the national dish, machboos, for Bahrain,) we prepared a dish called Murabyan, also extremely popular there and made with rice and shrimp.  The rice was first sautéed with onions and then, tomatoes and shrimp.  A topping was added made from all the Arabic seasonings one would expect, along with more shrimp.  The result was a lovely, spiced, shrimp and rice dish that was totally satisfying.

For dessert we made a vanilla custard, (perhaps an influence from the British friendship), called elbah, which was served cold.  It would be perfectly refreshing on a hot, Kuwaiti, summer day.  What made it Kuwaiti, was the addition of cardamom and saffron.  We enjoyed it with a hardy cup of Arabic coffee.

As we say goodbye to Kuwait, I leave you with a couple or proverbs:

“A known mistake is better than an unknown truth.”

“Believe what you see and not all you hear.”

and

“I complained because I had no shoes, until I met a man with no feet.”

Until next week,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

p.s. Have you ever tried those bright pink, pickled turnips?

Jordan is officially known as “The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.” Hashemite is a member of an Arab princely family claiming descent from Hashim, the great-grandfather of Muhammad. Yarden is the Hebrew name of the river that flows between the countries of Jordan and Israel. The name stems from the root word “yarad”, which means “to descend” or “flow down.” Known today as the Jordan River, it is a significant, fresh water source for the people of Jordan. The river also has major significance in Judaism, Christianity and Islam. This is the site where the Israelites crossed into the Promised Land and where Jesus of Nazareth was baptized by his cousin, John the Baptist. The name Jordan was adopted as a common name in Europe when crusaders returned with water from the river to baptize their own children.

Jordan is located in the Middle East, in western Asia, on the east bank of the river Jordan. Jordan is bordered by Saudi Arabia to the east and south, Iraq to the northeast, Syria to the north and Israel and Palestine to the west. Jordan’s location, at the crossroads of the Middle East, has been an important location since the dawn of civilization, connecting Asia, Africa and Europe. Today Jordan is considered the safest Arab country. However, it is right in the crosshairs of surrounding turmoil and has been extremely gracious in accepting refugees from conflicts dating back to 1948. Many Palestinians and Syrians now reside in Jordan. Jordan is the only country where a Palestinian can become a citizen.

Jordan was part of many kingdoms throughout history, including the Ottoman Empire, from 1516 until 1918. It was previously known as Transjordan. The Turkish rule came to an end during World War I when the Hashemite Army, in alliance with the British, took over and secured present day Jordan. Jordan became independent from Britain on May 26, 1946 and is run as a constitutional monarchy today. King Abdullah II is the current King who succeeded his father King Hussein after his death. King Abdullah II reaffirmed Jordan’s commitment to the peace treaty with Israel and its relations with the United States (US). Jordan is a key ally of the US and United Kingdom and together with Egypt, is one of only two Arab nations to have signed peace treaties with Israel. King Hussein was loved in the country and was distinguished by marrying an American woman who became known as Queen Noor or Noor Al-Hussein, which means “Light of Hussein.” She is credited for her work with refugees, as an advisor to Trust Women, (an organization aiming to put the rule of law behind woman’s rights) and as an advocate to ban landmines and eliminate nuclear weapons. Although she is no longer the sitting queen, she remains in Jordan to continue her work.

The country of Jordan is ethnically made up of 98 percent Arabs. Arabic is the official language and English is widely understood and spoken among the upper and middle classes. The majority of the population is Sunni Muslim, with a very small number of Christians, mainly Greek Orthodox. Jordan’s economy is among the smallest in the Middle East. Jordan does not have the natural resources on which many of her neighbors rely. King Abdullah has tried to implement economic reforms such as opening up foreign trade and privatizing state owned companies but it is tourism that is most lucrative. However, tourism has been hurt recently by the surrounding areas of conflict. Additionally, the large influx of refugees has caused massive unemployment and strains on their government. Their main industries, aside from tourism, are information technology, clothing, fertilizers, potash and pharmaceuticals. Their main crops are citrus, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, strawberries. They also raise sheep and cows and dairy products are widespread.

The capital city, Amman, is unique, in that it was originally constructed across seven hills, known as “jabals.” The city today spans over nineteen hills and directions are given based on “jabals.” It is the most populated city in Jordan, home to more than four million. Many of the buildings there look alike, as they are made from the same light-colored limestone.

Their main tourist site is the city of Petra, which is a UNESCO site and listed as one of the seven new wonders of the world. Also known as the “Rose City” for the color of the stone from which it was carved, it dates back some 2000 years. (It was featured in the Indiana Jones film, “The Last Crusade.”) The city, which has to be entered through a gorge only about a mile wide, is stunning with its rock cut architecture and water conduit system. Other historical sites in Jordan include Mount Nebo, which it is believed to be the burial site of Moses, Madaba which dates back at least 3500 years and is mentioned in the Old Testament numerous times and Pella. Madaba it is most famous for its intricate fifth and sixth century mosaics, prolifically laid throughout the town. Pella is a sleepy, small rural village, where there is evidence of humans dating as far back as the Paleolithic era, some 100,000 years ago. However, one of the most popular tourist destinations and also the lowest place on earth, is the Dead Sea. It is well known for its spiritual and healing spas.

The most notable aspect of Jordan, has to be the hospitality of the Jordanian people. They are known to be decent, honest, respectful and courteous. Generally speaking Jordan is a liberal society. They will smile and say “Welcome to Jordan.” The only thing they ask is in return is that foreign tourists make an attempt to honor their culture. When visiting there you should dress modestly and not show any public displays of affection to the opposite sex. It is very likely that you will be asked to drink some tea, or even be invited for a full meal at someone’s home. They will have a sincere interest in getting to know you. If for any reason you choose not to accept the invitation, you should say “Shukran shukran” (Thank you, thank you) and then you follow it up with, “Marra okhra insha’Allah (Another time, if God wills it”), which softens the no, yet indicates you won’t forget their kind offer. Also, never photograph a woman without permission, it is considered highly offensive.

As we look into the cuisine of the Jordanian people, it is mainly Middle Eastern, Arab and Greek, with some Turkish influences as well. Dishes include meze (small starter dishes) such as hummus, tabbouleh, and mouttabal. Kebabs are found all over and usually made with lamb. Rice is served at most meals along with an array of dried fruits and fresh vegetables. Grains, cheese and yogurts are also important ingredients in their cooking. Sweets, such as Baklava, are widely loved and sesame seeds, thyme, sage and mint are all quintessential flavors of Jordan.

So let’s eat a Jordanian feast:

The Menu
Starter
Mouttabal (Smoky Eggplant Dip)

Served with Shrak (Jordanian Flat Bread)

Main
Mansaf (Lamb cooked in goat’s milk yogurt with rice)

Served with
Fattoush (Mediterranean Salad with toasted bread)

Dessert
Kunafa (A sweet pastry with a cheese filling)

We decorated with the colors of the Jordanian flag; black, white, green and red. The colors represent the historical dynasties. We also used the black iris, which is the national flower along with citrus fruits, tomatoes and cucumbers. A sheep and a goat represented the nomadic lifestyle of the Bedouins, who are considered to be native Jordanians.

We began with a thimble of bitter, Arabic coffee, which is a welcoming gesture in Jordan. We downed it and then shook the cup back and forth indicating we don’t want anymore. If you were to hold the cup out straight, that indicates you want a refill.

We brought out the food and said “Sahtayn” (May you eat.) We began with the Jordanian flat bread, called shrak that was used to enjoy the dip, called mouttabal. (Of course we only used the right hand to eat.) The dip is very similar to baba ganoush which we made for Bahrain, except it has a beautiful smoky flavor due to the way the eggplant is cooked.

For the main course, we enjoyed the unique dish called mansaf, which also happens to be the national dish of Jordan. Mansaf is lamb, mixed with aromatic herbs and spices then cooked in yoghurt and served with lots of rice. The lamb is cooked in jameed (an Arabic word for dried yoghurt). The jameed is made from goat’s milk then mixed with water to produce a creamy sauce. The lamb is stewed in this sauce until perfectly tender. A large tray is first covered with the doughy, flat bread, (shrak) then dampened with yoghurt. On top of this, a layer of rice is heaped. The meat is then piled over the rice and covered with the sauce. (Pine nuts and almonds are used for garnish.) This dish is served for every special occasion and we can see why; it is truly a feast. The jameed adds both a salty and sour taste to the dish that is most distinctive. Jordanian etiquette dictates that one should only eat the portion of food on the platter that is directly in front of them. Often the host will add special pieces of meat to your section for added enjoyment.

We served the mansaf with a side salad, called fattoush. This is your basic Arabic vegetable salad with the addition of toasted shrak which absorbs the dressing perfectly, like a crouton. We loved the simple lemon and olive oil dressing with just a touch of salt and pepper. It was garnished with sumac, which is quite popular in that region.

For dessert, we had an interesting sweet pastry, made with very fine strands of dough called kataifi. This dough is lightly coated with ghee and when baked makes for a lovely, crunchy pastry. The kunafa has a delicious cheese filling tucked in-between the layers of the pastry. The whole thing is coated with a sweet syrup, lightly flavored with citrus and rose water. The kunafa was garnished with dried fruit and nuts; a superb ending to our Jordanian feast.

We finished our meal and placed our right hand over our heart and said, “Al-Hamdulillah” which means (Thank God), which expressed our enormous appreciation for this lovely feast.

Until next time,
Warmest regards,
Darlene