Search Results for: Cape Verde

Cape Verde, now known as Cabo Verde, is an archipelago of 10 islands, nine of which are inhabited. When the Portuguese arrived in 1462, they found no one living on the islands. They first landed on the peninsula of the African mainland, which they named, Cape Verde, meaning Green Cape. Today the peninsula is called Cap-Vert, and the islands, which had been known as Cape Verde up until 2013, became Cabo Verde.

Cabo Verde was under Portuguese rule for nearly 500 years. After a war was fought in Guinea –Bissau, with another Portuguese colony on the mainland in 1975, they gained independence. Today they enjoy a stable government and political system, which is a model for other West African countries that do not. African slaves were brought to the Islands by the Portuguese, to work on their plantations and to feed their sailors. The people are considered “Mesticos”, meaning, a mix of African and European origins. Although Portuguese is the official language, most there speak Cabo Verdean Creole, or Kriol.

The Islands have few natural resources and they have suffered from extreme droughts and famine which resulted in massive emigration. There are more Cabo Verdeans living outside the country than inside. Nearly 500,000 Cabo Verdeans are estimated to live in New England, in the United States alone. Others emigrated to Portugal, Netherlands, France, Italy, Mexico, Spain, Canada, Argentina, Brazil. Many more fled to other West African Countries, especially those that speak Portuguese, like Angola and Guinea-Bissau. About 500,000 live on the Islands today with the majority living on the island of Santiago.

Each Island has its own cultural identity, although the northern islands tend to associate with the Portuguese colonizers and the southern islands have a closer affinity with Africa. Each town has a Roman Catholic Church and Catholicism (infused with indigenous beliefs) is the main religion on the islands. Even so, most of the people are not practicing Catholics but they do celebrate numerous Saints’ days, where communities gather for parties and festivities with music, dancing, drinking and food.

Cabo Verde offers free health care to its citizens. The facilities and resources are poor but they are more advanced than most other West African countries. They mainly suffer from infectious and parasitic diseases due to malnutrition and poor sanitation. Thankfully, they have not had any cases of the deadly Ebola outbreak, which is just off their shores. The average life expectancy is only 62 years of age.

The economy there has gone through many ups and downs over the centuries. In the early days, they experienced many pirate raids and then the French also attacked there in 1712. In the 19th century they regained some wealth due to their strategic location on major trade routes between Europe, South America and Africa. For a time the Islands had a coal and submarine cable station and large salt flats. Later, severe drought and famine struck and it wasn’t until after World War II that they began to prosper once again. Many expats, living in other countries, send money “home”, which also helps with the overall economy. Today, they are working on becoming a tourist destination, with several luxury hotels built on the Islands.

Most goods produced in Cabo Verde are based on agriculture, even though only 10 percent of the land is arable. About one-third of Cabo Verdeans are farmers. They produce bananas, corn, beans, sugarcane and coffee, but most of their food needs are imported. There is a large fishing trade as well. Many children follow in their parents’ footsteps and learn a craft at a very young age. People tend to work as long as they are able; it is not uncommon to see seniors working in the fields.

The cuisine, like the people, is a mix mainly of Portuguese and African influences. Of course being a nation of islands, fish and seafood play an important role in the diet. Their national dish is called Cachupa; a stew of hominy, beans, vegetables and whatever else is available to throw in. If it contains meat or fish, it is called Cachupa Rica. Breakfast usually consists of a steamed cornbread called cuscus, served with honey and coffee. The main meal of the day is a large lunch in the mid-afternoon, which is followed later by a light dinner. The drink of choice, particularly among men, is called Grogue; a liquor made of sugar cane. It is said it can make you go blind if you drink it long enough!

So let’s eat:

The Menu
Starter
Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale Soup)

Main Dish
Polvo a Modo Ze De Lino (Octopus Stew)

Served with
Jagacida (Portuguese Rice)

Cape Verdean Style Salad (Green Salad)

Dessert
Gufong (Fried Pastry)

We decorated our table with the colors of their flag. Red represents economic prosperity, white is for peace, blue is for the Atlantic Ocean that surrounds them, and ten yellow stars represent each of the islands that make up this tiny country. We put on some Cesaria Evora music.  She is known as the Barefoot Diva and Queen of Cape Verdean music called Morna, a national song style like Tango is to Argentina.

We began the meal with an outstanding Portuguese kale soup. Honestly, my husband was a little reluctant because of the name (he is not a huge kale fan) but, after my insistence, he agreed to try it and was blown away. The flavor, especially due to the Linguica sausage, was just awesome. (We ate it for the next several days for lunch and it is now on our favorites list!)

For the main menu, we had a delicious octopus stew that had a bit of kick due to the addition of the habanero pepper. But it really is true that the tomato tames some of the heat and it indeed worked beautifully in this dish. On the side we had a simple green salad; romaine lettuce with some cucumber and tomato, with just a light oil and vinegar dressing. It was perfect along with what the locals call “Jag” Portuguese rice, with more of the Linguica sausage, YUM!

For dessert we had what is called Gufong. It is a simple fried dough on which we drizzled a touch of chocolate syrup. It was perfect, with a cup of tea to end our Cabo Verdean meal.

The people of Cabo Verde are known to be very generous. It is considered rude to eat in public and not offer what you have to those around you. As a result, you won’t normally find them eating in public. They take pride in greeting each other with a handshake and a lengthy discussion about one’s family and health. This occurs every time you greet someone, even if it is twice in the same day. They like to be very physically close when they communicate and hand gestures are commonly used. Like so many other cultures, they show their generosity by providing a meal to a guest. If you ever are invited to dine there, be sure to take a gift to show your appreciation for their hospitality.

As we say goodbye to these tropical islands called Cabo Verde, I leave you with a quote from a previous secretary of state. Perhaps lessons can be learned here.
“Few places demonstrate the promise of Africa better than Cape Verde. Some places have certain aspects that can be comparable. But no place has put it all together, with good governance, transparency, accountability, the rule of law, a democracy that is delivering for its people, lifting them out of poverty, putting them now in a category of middle-income countries of the world.”

And in Kriol
“Ti prosima vez!” Which means, until next time!

Warmest regards,
Darlene

This week we journey to three West African countries. The Gambia is the smallest country on mainland Africa and is surrounded on three sides by Senegal and borders the Atlantic Ocean. The Gambia gets its name from the river that runs through the entire width of the country; 300 miles from east to west. “The” was added to the name to avoid confusion with another African country named Zambia. She gained independence from British rule on February 18, 1965. Links to Britain date back to the 17th century, particularly connected with the slave trade. Alex Haley’s famous book “Roots,” begins in a small village named Juffure, located in The Gambia. Today it remains a popular tourist destination for Roots Heritage Tours. Not far from this historic village, is Albreda, home to a slavery museum which opened in 1996. It is housed in the Maurel Freres building that was built by the British in 1840. Here you will find historical artifacts of the slave trade known as “Black Ivory.” This tragic period was testament to the number of people who died on the “Voyage of No Return.”

Today the country is run by Dictator Yahya Jammeh, a US trained, former, army officer who took power during a bloodless coup in 1994. It is said that people in The Gambia live, under his rule, in a cult of witchcraft and execution. He locks people away for any criticism and executes trouble makers on a whim. Back in 2007, Jammeh announced a cure for AIDS, made from boiled herbs. He also announced a cure for several types of cancers in 2014, however there is no scientific evidence that any of his claims are true. Jammeh continues to drive the World Health Organization and the United Nations, a little crazy with his discoveries. Most recently, “His Excellency Sheikh Professor Doctor President,” (really that’s Jammeh’s title) began releasing prisoners from some of the worst prisons in Africa and granted amnesty to dissidents, in celebration of the 21st anniversary of his coup. Many fear Jammeh’s regime and his reputation for human rights violations remains despicable. He continues to win elections by granting services to those that vote for him, while leaving those that don’t to suffer in poverty.

Ninety percent of the population in The Gambia is Muslim. Muslim Berbers from Mauritania brought Islam to The Gambia and surrounding areas in West Africa, along the trade routes. The country is home to many ethnic groups, the largest ones being the Wolof, Mandinka, Fula and Jola. The small size of the country has made inter-tribal mixing commonplace. The country has a peaceful reputation regarding racial and ethnic interactions. English is the official language of The Gambia, however many Gambians speak three or four indigenous languages. There is political pressure by Jammeh, to embrace Jola as the country’s language and quit teaching English in schools altogether. Even so, the literacy rate in The Gambia is only 50 percent.
The capital city, Banjul, is the only urban center in the country. More than 80 percent of the people live in rural areas. Tourism is an important economic sector to The Gambia and many European budget travelers retreat to the beautiful beaches there to enjoy the warm climate. Recently, tourism has been hit hard due to the Ebola outbreak, even though there have been no confirmed cases in The Gambia.

Guinea-Bissau is another small country in West Africa. Formerly known as Portuguese Guinea, she borders Senegal to the north, Guinea to the east and south and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Bissau, the name of the capital city, was added to avoid confusion with their neighbor Guinea. Guinea-Bissau’s official language is Portuguese, although most people speak Criola, a blend of Portuguese and indigenous languages. Guinea-Bissau is home to the Bijagos archipelago, comprising some 25 islands off the coast. Bissau-Guineans, as they are called, gained independence from Portugal on September 24, 1973, after nearly 400 years of colonization. Cape Verde used to be part of Guinea-Bissau until a coup erupted in 1980. They have struggled ever since with a series of coups and corrupt leaders. Jose Marion Vaz is the newly elected leader of the country. The world hopes that the new leader will break the cycle of corruption and make progress towards providing public services and work for the country’s development.

Despite many years of colonization the Bissau-Guineans have managed to preserve their ethnicity and ancient roots. The diverse ethnic backgrounds make for a colorful culture with art, music and dance a big part of life. The Gumbe genre is most popular, with the calabash being the most prominent instrument accompanying these rhythmically complex dances.

The country is poor but rich in natural resources such as: fish, bauxite, clay, granite and unexploited deposits of petroleum. They export cashews, fish, shrimp, peanuts, palm kernels and sawn lumber. As a result, they suffer from environmental problems such as: soil erosion, over- fishing and deforestation.

Guinea, the neighboring country, shares many of the same resources and problems. The name Guinea is what European shippers called the large area of West Africa. It is possible however, that the name originated from the word “guine,” which means “woman” in Susu, the language spoken by a coastal tribe. It may have been a misunderstanding from when early Europeans encountered African women washing clothes. The Europeans must have thought they were making reference to the area, rather than to themselves. Guinea is sometime referred to as Guinea-Conakry which is also the nation’s capital city. Conkary is the wettest capital city in the world, receiving over 149 inches of rain from June to November.

Guinea was colonized by the French in 1890 and was previously known as French Guinea. They gained independence October 2, 1958. The country may be at a turning point, after decades of authoritarian rule. They held their first, free and competitive, democratic, presidential and legislative elections in 2010 and 2013. The official language is French but several indigenous languages also spoken. The country is young, with nearly half the population being under the age of fifteen, which may explain why the literacy rate is one of the lowest, at only 30 percent. (Most world literacy rates are gauged by how many, over the age of fifteen, can read and write.) The country is primarily Muslim, comprising 85 percent of the population. They too are rich in natural resources (exporting iron ore, bauxite, diamonds and gold,) yet the people suffer in poverty and malnutrition. The mining industry, though profitable, has caused serious environmental issues, especially water pollution, with which the country must also deal.

The Ebola virus is a big problem in Guinea, as they have had many confirmed cases and over 2100 deaths. The recent outbreak was believed to start in Guinea, when a young boy played with a fruit bat that lived in a tree in his local village. The country has suffered tremendously due to the outbreak but humanitarian aid has been steadfast. Good news has just recently emerged about a long awaited vaccine for Ebola. It is now being administered to the people of Guinea with great optimism for its effectiveness. This potential cure, along with the promise of political stability (with an important election to be held in October of 2015,) have foreign investors waiting on the sidelines, hopeful for a positive outcome.

All three countries share, pretty much, the same food sources and cuisine. The familiar flavors of tomato, onions, peanuts and hot peppers are the staples. Most all of the population lives rurally and survives on subsistence agriculture. Rice is common on the coast and millet, in the inland areas. Cassava, plantains, okra, sweet potatoes and yams are ubiquitous. Meat is a luxury, although bush meat as well as chicken, mutton and fish are available. Stews scooped up with rice, millet or cassava (fou-fou) are their everyday meals.

I chose to combine all three of these West African countries because their cuisines have so much in common. The dishes are called something different in each country but the recipes and ingredients are the same.

So let’s eat West African style:

Menu
Starter
Afra/Dibi (Street food made from grilled lamb and onion)

Soup
Domodah (Peanut butter stew/soup)

Main
Yassa Poulet or Yassa chicken (Chicken with lemons and onions)

Salade Neebe (Black-eyed peas salad)

Dessert
Chakery ( Sweet and creamy couscous)

Served with
Ginger Beer

We set our mat on the floor and decorated with African animals and the staples in West African cuisine. We placed a bowl with water to cleanse our hands before eating. It would be typical to eat with only your right hand out of the communal dish, which would typically be placed on a small stool around which everyone can gather. A spoon is also normally provided, as it takes some practice to scoop up the stews with rice or fou-fou. Men and women may eat separately, with the children joining the women for their meal. As all three of these countries are Muslim, most people do not drink alcohol or eat pork. With our meal, we served a refreshing, non-alcoholic drink called Ginger beer.

Our first course was a street food called either Afra or Dibi, often times served on a brown paper bag. The meat is typically mutton but could also be bush meat, beef or other. Ours was made of lamb and it was outstanding. The bread was a French baguette, as all three countries have influences from Britain, France and Portugal. The combination of flavors from the seasoned meat, mustard and onions was fantastic. This street food would normally be a meal unto itself, so we had only a small sampling.

The next course was peanut stew (or soup.) This is probably the most common meal throughout West Africa. It is called Domodah or Kansiye. Ours was made vegetarian style, using sweet potatoes. However, it is often times made with meat or chicken. The familiar flavors of West Africa were beautifully represented in this dish, which was served over white rice.

The main course was a dish called Yassa. It is made with chicken and known by this name is all three countries. The flavors of this dish, created by the pairing of citrus and caramelized onions, provided a perfect contrast of delight.

As a side dish, we enjoyed a refreshing, black-eyed pea salad, called Saladu Neebe. Black-eyed peas are grown in this area and are often times relied on for protein in a meal. The peas, together with tomatoes, cucumber and peppers were tossed with a light citrus dressing. It was the perfect complement to the Yassa. (I will add this lovely salad to my favorites list.)

For dessert, we had chakery, a sweet and creamy couscous, made from millet. Dessert is not often served in West Africa and this dish would more typically be eaten for breakfast or as a snack. When dessert is served there, fresh fruit would be the most common choice. They have an abundance of fruit that grows in the area, such as mango, pineapple, and coconuts. Fresh fruit for dessert, is quickly becoming my favorite way to end a meal.

As we say goodbye to The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau and Guinea, we do so with hope for a brighter future for the people who live there. We recognize that in countries, such as these, life is not easy and the struggle, for basic things that we so often take for granted, is a daily battle. We wish for them, peace, political stability and prosperity.

I leave you with a few proverbs from these three countries:
What one hopes for is always better than what one has.
The stomach has no holiday.
The bitter heart eats its owner.
Too much discussion means a quarrel.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

How did Portugal get its name?

Where is Portugal located?

Portugal is located in the western most point of Europe and lies on the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula.  It shares its northern and eastern borders with Spain, the only bordering country.  The Atlantic Ocean lies to the west and south, providing a stunning coastline loved by locals and tourists alike.  Portugal is divided by the Tagus River, which separates the rugged north from the rolling plains of the south.  The landscape in the north contains the mountains of the Iberian Peninsula.  The country of Portugal also includes the nine islands of the Azores, and two islands, well off its coast, named Madeira and Porto Santo that was once a home of Columbus.

A Brief History of Portugal

It is said that Lisbon is one of the oldest European capitals, founded 400 years before the Roman era.  It was inhabited by Celtic and other tribes as well as Phoenicians-Carthaginians, along the coast.  The Romans took over the area, known as Lusitania which is why speakers of Portuguese today are known as Lusophones.

The Romans began to occupy the area in 140 BC and made it famous for mining and agriculture, especially for the production of sweet wine.  The name Lusitania comes from the Roman god, Lusus, son of Bacchus, who was the god of wine.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, a Germanic tribe took over the Iberian Peninsula and established the church in their kingdom.  The church remains an important part of Portuguese culture.  The peninsula was later invaded and occupied by the  Arab Moors for more than 800 years.  After the partial Reconquista, Portugal finally became a kingdom, independent of Spain, in 1279.  The borders that were established then still remain the same today.

During the Imperial Era from 1279 until 1578, Portugal made many discoveries through its strong naval power and established colonies all over the world.  Brazil was one but also Mozambique and Angola in Africa, along with many others on several different continents.  Portugal became a world power and one of the most important empires of the time, with Spain being one of Portugal’s biggest rivals.

After the death of King Sebastian I, the empire went into decline.  Portugal then engaged in numerous European wars, including the Restoration war which resulted in fending off of the Spanish King who was trying to take over Portugal.  In 1755, Portugal lost much of its wealth with the destruction of Lisbon by a powerful earthquake.

Portugal had a good relationship with the British Empire and when Portugal refused to give in to Napoleon, which resulted in military attacks, the British helped Portugal restore their independence in 1812.  There were many problems that arose until 1910, when the First Portuguese Republic was established which brought about the King's resignation. The republic was ended in 1926 in a coup d’etat that resulted in a military dictatorship.

In 1933, there was a second revolution called the New State, established by Salazar.  His motto was, “Proudly Alone.”  His belief in nationalism and isolation saved Portugal from taking part in both World Wars.  Salazar always tried to maintain Portugal’s colonies under his rule and many Portuguese had to fight in those colonial wars.  This eventually led to the end of his dictatorship on April 25, 1974, when a peaceful military coup d’etat took place.

Portugal was then led into democracy (which remains in effect today) when elections took place, in 1975.  They became part of the EU with the guidance of Portugal’s most popular politician who became Prime Minister of Portugal. His name was Jose Barroso. Portugal has become a diversified and increasingly service-based economy since joining the EU.  Its last colonial hold was Macau, which was given back to China in 1999.

Portuguese Culture

There was a strong influence from the country’s geography, its history and its culture.  The cultural heritage stems from the people, having been part of its colonies in Africa, South America and Asia, and its tribal history.  Many more cultural influences come from being a global empire in the 15^th and 16^th centuries.

Portugal is famous for their exquisite, hand painted tiles.  They are used to adorn interiors and exteriors of houses, churches, palaces and other buildings. Originally of Muslim origin, the production of tiles began in the 15^th century but reached its peak in the 18^th century, with their famous blue and white tiles.  The train station in Porto tells the story of the city in grand style, with the use of these tiles.

Portugal is also known for the introduction of Manueline Architecture, a style that featured elements inspired by the sea and by symbols of Royal power, such as armillary spheres, which is the national symbol featured on their flag.  The Jeronimos Monastery and The Belem Tower are good examples of this architectural style but Manueline style buildings and features can be found all over the country.  Baroque and Romanesque styles also abound.

Fado is a type of music that has was named by the World Heritage as part of Intangibles. The history of Fado dates back to the 1820’s and 30’s however some believe it may have much earlier origins.  It is a form of song that is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics.  The Portuguese word saudade which means longing, symbolizing a feeling of loss.  Fado performers were typically sailors, bohemians and courtesans who not only sang but also danced.  Today, it is performed as just song, without the dance.  In recent years, Amalia Rodrigues, known as the “Queen of Fado,” is credited with making Fado popular throughout the world.  Taking in Fado is very popular with tourists, especially in Lisbon, and why not?  It is an important part of Portugal’s culture.

Portugal has no official religion, as the church and state were formally separated during the Portuguese First Republic in 1910.  However nearly 81% of the population is Catholic and important traditions have a significant bearing in Portuguese society and culture. The official language is Portuguese, considered a Romance Language. A direct descendant of Latin, however many speak English, French and Spanish as well.

Why Visit Portugal?

The country itself, with its long coastline and most of the cities and population living along it, make Portugal one of the prettiest countries in the world.  Each city and village has immense history as it is considered to be the oldest in all of Europe. Lisbon. the capital, has become a vibrant modern city, and to deal with its extremely hilly street levels, has installed elevators downtown to transport people up and down some 45 meters.  The lifts are disguised inside buildings on the low end of the city, so it is good to learn where to find them.

The architecture and signature black and white tiles and cobble stones, that line the streets make it picture perfect.  It is home to 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites.  One of them is the oldest, continuously operated, University in the world, established in 1290.  In Lisbon, you can find the oldest operating bookstore in the world.  Bertrand Bookshop, was established in 1732.  It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755 but has been in its current location since 1773.

Portugal is also known for exceptional surfing with 364 days of surfing each year.  Home to the largest wave ever surfed, it was an incredible 80 feet high.  Portugal is also the largest cork producer in the world, supplying nearly 70% of the world’s cork.  Needless to say, they are not happy with the screw on caps that have recently become popular for wine.  They are innovative however, making cork into belts, purses, shoes and the like.  There is a beautiful monastery near the town of Sintra that is made from cork.  The whole town of Sintra is a UNESCO site and simply like a fairytale that should not be missed on a trip to Portugal. It is filled with castles, palaces, churches and parks that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

Did I mention the wine, famous for Port and Madeira, as well as Vinho Verde, my personal favorite?  You will also find bottles of ginja, a liqueur that people make themselves from ginja berries (sour cherries) and store in bottles.  The country is a wine-lover's paradise.  A trip down the Douro River Valley, where most of the wine is made, is popular with tourists.  Of course, the Portuguese people are friendly and welcoming and are probably the biggest reason to visit, although the food is a close second.

Portuguese Cuisine

The cuisine get its roots from ingredients obtained through trade routes established centuries ago.  Bread, rice, spices, pastries, sausages and seafood, especially cod, remain the staples of many Portuguese meals.  It is often referred to as peasant food, although it is now becoming a gourmand’s destination.  The Portuguese get the credit for introducing tempura to Japan, tea to the British and hot chilies to Asia.

Many of their pastries are made with sugar, which started arriving in the 15^th century, originally from the island of Madeira and later from Brazil.  A visit to a Pasteleria is a must.  Interestingly, the pastries are made with lots of egg yolks, to include their most famous pastry, Pais de nata.  It is said that the nuns used the egg whites to starch their habits and preserve wine, so they had an abundance of egg yolks, with which they masterfully crafted into pastries.

The sausages are also famous and butcher shops all over are stuffed with cases filled with an array of sausages, along with legs of cured ham.  Chourico is a spicy sausage, used in many soups and stews, like their famous caldo verde.  Morcela, a blood sausage, is also extremely popular.  You will also find assortments of delicious cheeses, many made from sheep’s milk that are prepared using an ancient method of coagulating the milk with thistle flower.  Olives and olive oil are also exceptional products coming from Portugal.

Spices from all over the world are also used in their cuisine but it is probably the abundant use of seafood, that is most renown. The Portuguese are one of the top countries in the world when it comes to seafood consumption.  It is said that there are over 1000 Portuguese recipes that use salt cod as the main ingredient.  Sardines are also loved.  They even have a month long sardine festival that is held each year when they are the most abundant.  A couple of other dishes that should be mentioned is bifana, a pork sandwich that is a specialty, as is francesinha, a sandwich covered in a hot thick tomato and beer sauce.  Oh and their beer is highly regarded too.  They will tell you Super Bock is the best beer in the world.

So let’s enjoy a Portuguese meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peixinhos da horta (Fried Green Beans)

Soup Course

Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale Soup)

Salad Course

Salada de Polvo (Octopus Salad)

Main Course

Bacalhau a Bras (Salted Cod with Eggs)

Dessert 

Pasteis de Nata (Egg Custard Tart)

We set the scene in the classic blue and white dishes for which they are famous.  We placed several ships to represent there impressive naval exploration. They have a history of great explorers, like Ferdinand Magellan, the first person to circumvent the globe and Vasco de Gama, who discovered the sea route to India.  Bartholomew Diaz, was the first to sail around the southern tip of Africa and others who discovered new lands like Brazil, parts of Africa and the Far-East, claiming them for the Portuguese Empire.  A can of sardines was set in place, as was an olive branch, a cork, a cross and a good bottle of port wine.  We put on some soft Fado music to complete the mood.

We said Saude which means Cheers, and toasted with a taste of port.  We began our meal with fried green beans, that were battered.  This is the original tempura that was introduced to the Japanese, which the Japanese later embellished.  The name Peixinhos da horta, literally translated means, little fish from the garden.  The name comes from the end result of the fried beans resembling slender, fried fish.  We loved them as our first course.

Next, was the famous caldo verde or Portuguese kale soup.  It is literally my husband's favorite soup and therefore had to be included in the meal.  It is hearty and the flavor superb, especially with the chucks of chourico and linguisa sausages.

Next we enjoyed the main course, Bacalhau a Bras, a salted cod with eggs and potatoes.  This recipe was given to me by our guide in Sintra named Lidia.  After many inquiries during our trip to Portugal, this was the dish that nearly everyone told me to make as the main course for the Portuguese meal.  It  is lovely and the combination of flavors; comforting and delicious.

It was served alongside a octopus salad, as octopus is another much loved seafood.  This Portuguese version was excellent with red onion, sun dried tomatoes, coriander and lime.  I could eat this everyday!

Lastly, we just had to indulge in the famous pasteis de nata, the famous egg custard tart, that was sublime, and went perfectly with a shot of espresso called um bica, literally a shot of only 2-3 ozs.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful and intriguing county, I leave you with some Fado lyrics, which cannot be explained but must be felt and experienced.

Is both mine and yours this Fado

Destiny that tides us (together)

No matter how much it is denied

By the stings of a guitar

Whenever one hears a lament

of a guitar singing

one is instanly lost

with a desire to weep

Oh people of my land

Now I understand

This sadness which I carry on

Was from you that I received

And it would seem tenderness

If l let myself be soothed

My anguish would be greater

My singing would be less sadder

Oh people of my land

Lyrics by Mariza, an international Fado star

Until next time,

Abrigada (thank you, in Portuguese)

Darlene

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How did Peru get its name?

Garcilaso de la Vega, was the first one to shed light of how Peru got its name.  Vega was born, the son of a Spanish conquistador and an Incan princess, in 1539.  He was one of the first to write detailed accounts of the Incas and Spanish conquests in Peru.  His book was published in 1609, was called, The Royal Commentaries of the Incas.

The story goes that in 1513, Spaniard Vasco Nunez de Balboa discovered the South Sea.  He spotted a native Indian who was quietly fishing at the mouth of an estuary.  His crew captured the native and hauled him aboard the boat.  After finally calming him down, the Spanish attempted to ask him questions about the unknown land.  Scared and confused but wanting to please his captors, he blurted out the word Beru, which was actually his name.  He then blurted out a second word, Pelu, which means, “river” in the Inca language.  The Spanish combined the two words to create what we know the country to be called today; Peru.  (The Incas and natives knew their country as Ttahuatin-Suya, meaning, “the four-quarters of the world.”)

Where is Peru Located?

Peru is located on the western border of South America.  Her neighbors are Ecuador and Columbia to the north, Brazil to the east, Bolivia to the southeast, Chile to the south and the Pacific Ocean to the west.  It is the third largest country on the continent, behind Argentina and Brazil.  Lima is the capital city and its main economic hub.

Peru has enormous biodiversity, with ninety distinct microclimates.  It is listed among the ten most biodiverse countries in the world.  The coastal plain, (costa) is a narrow strip of desert land that runs the length of the country.  There is an upland region, (sierra) the highland, which includes the very high mountain ranges of the Andes, as well as gorges and deep valleys.  There are many rivers that are born in the Andes and descend to the Pacific, allowing for irrigation to serve a very arid region.  The east is home to the tropical Amazon basin’s rain forest, jungle (selva), and the Amazon River.  Lake Titicaca, lies between Peru and Bolivia and is the largest lake in all of South America.  It is also the highest in altitude, navigable lake in all the world.  In Andean belief, Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun.  Its waters are renowned for stillness and bright reflections.  Jacques Cousteau discovered ruins of an ancient city under the lake’s surface, He also discovered the descendants of the Quechua people, who still live on the islands today.

A Brief History of Peru

Peru has an ancient history, stemming from various tribal groups that lived there.  In the 12^th century, the small city state of Cuzco was formed by the Killkes tribe.  This began the formidable era of the Incan Empire.  Over the next several hundred years, the Incas managed to conquer not only Peru but also parts of Ecuador, Bolivia and northern Chile.  They had a highly developed civilization when the Spanish arrived there in 1531.  Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, conquered and captured Cuzco in 1533.  Peru was a great source of wealth and power for the Spanish, mostly from the gold and silver discovered in the Andes Mountains.  In 1535, Pizarro established Lima as the capital of Peru, which remains so today.  With the help of others, from Bolivia and Venezuela, Peru was able to defeat the Spanish and become a free country in 1821, when they declared their independence.

Like many newly independent countries, Peru went through a difficult time with coups, dictatorships, military rule and wars with guerilla groups fighting against the government.  In recent history, Alberto Fujimori, won three consecutive terms, despite being accused of fraud.  He then stunned the nation when he resigned during a trip to Japan.  Revelations that Fujimori secretly held Japanese citizenship outraged the populace, since he could not be extradited to face corruption charges.  Eventually he ended up in Chile to pursue his political ambitions.  There he was arrested and sentenced to 25 years in prison.  He was recently pardoned, after serving only 12 years, as he is suffering from cancer.  The pardon caused outrage, once again.  Despite Fujimori’s crimes against humanity, he did some good things for the economy, which continues to thrive.  Their economy is dependent on its many commodities, but prices do fluctuate with the world markets.  They are the world’s second largest producer of silver and copper. They are the sixth largest producer of gold; mining 162 tons of gold a year.  Peru’s coastal waters provide for excellent fishing grounds.  Fish and agriculture are very important to their growing economy, as are minerals and natural resources.  Tourism continues to contribute more than ever to this nation’s economic growth.

Peruvian Culture

With more than 10,000 years of history, Peru is filled with a great wealth of culture and tradition.  As the oldest civilization in South America, Peru is home to many riches.  Peruvians fully recognize the importance today of their heritage and the value the Andes and the Amazon offer in natural resources and ancient traditions.

Spanish is the official language, along with Quechua and Aymara.  There are 45 other native languages that are spoken as well.  Catholicism is the predominant religion in Peru and is very important in the lives of Peruvians.  Yet they exist peacefully alongside other belief systems including indigenous beliefs, with shamans and medicine men playing important roles.

The coca plant (the same one used to make cocaine) has been used for thousands of years in the Andean world.  It is used for its medicinal properties and religious significance.  Coca leaves, which are brewed in tea, are particularly effective against altitude sickness, which is helpful at high elevations.

Since pre-Hispanic times, music and dance have played vital roles in Peruvian society.  Ancient Peruvians used seashells and reeds, along with animal bones, to produce sounds.  Weaving is another prominent art form in Peru.  It is believed that every form of weaving known today, was invented by the Peruvians.  It is estimated it takes somewhere between 500 to 600 hours to spin, dye and weave a traditional poncho.  They are typically given as gifts to one who enters adulthood and it is expected to last them a lifetime.

In Cuzco, Peruvian history is displayed in the architecture.  Here you will find Spanish, colonial style churches and dwellings built directly on top of their old Incan stone temples.

Why Visit Peru?

Peru, being home to amazing biodiversity, is one of the most unique and colorful places to visit on the planet.  Peru has 25,000 plant species, it ranks first in the world in distinct fish species, second for species of birds and third for amphibians and mammals.  It is home to 12 UNESCO world heritage sites, including the famous Machu Picchu that was recently deemed one of the Seven New Wonders of the World.  It was uncovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham and today displays the pride and complexity of the ancient Inca civilization as one of the most popular tourist destinations. The stone work, masterfully constructed to be seismically stable, is one of the mysteries of this ancient site.

Peru is also home to numerous natural wonders, including Rainbow Mountain and the Painted Hills, where mineral deposits color the landscape like a rainbow. The Cerro Blanco sand dune, located in the south of Peru, is the highest in the world.  Peru’s Nazca Lines, are a collection of more than 70, giant, human and animal geoglyphs.  There are 10,000 lines, some of them are up to 30 miles long and it remains one of the world’s biggest, archeological mysteries that was never even discovered until man took flight.  The Andes, the beautiful coastlines, deserts, the Amazon basin and rivers, and Lake Titicaca are all great reasons to visit Peru.  However, it may just be worth a visit there for the gastronomy alone; it is one of the best cuisines in all the world.

Peruvian Cuisine

The diversity of Peru’s agricultural production comes from its microclimates and varied geography.  Peru’s multiple cultures along with the brilliance of her chefs, have enriched the cuisine to the point of it being recognized as one of the best in the world.  Gastronomy has become such an important element in the lives of Peruvians, it is part of the national identity.  The cuisine of Peru is both ancient and modern.  It is a fusion of the indigenous population along with contributions of immigrants from Europe, (mainly Spain, Italy and Germany), Asia (China and Japan) and West Africa.   Imagine a cuisine where there are the over 3800 varieties of potatoes.  Corn is available in every color, shape and size, along with rich grains, like quinoa.  We certainly can’t forget the abundant seafood, especially their amazing ceviche, available all along the coast.  High in the Andean region, cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca, are popular sources of meat.  It is, however, the native aji chilies, pureed into amazing sauces, that just might be their most delicious contribution.  The flavors of Peruvian cuisine are bold, rich, and spicy.  Yet they can be subtle and complex, as well.  You will certainly want to enjoy the amazing flavors of this cuisine with their famous pisco sour; Peru’s national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Peruvian Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peruvian Ceviche (Peru’s National Dish)

Main Dish

Split Roasted Chicken (Pollo a la Brasa)

Served with

Two Peruvian Sauces ( Aji Verde & Aji de Huacatay)

Dessert

Caramel Meringue Parfait (Suspiro de Limena)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red and white.  We placed dolls, hand crafted by natives, to represent the Incan empire, a photo of the magnificent Machu Picchu, a yellow aji pepper, silver and gold coins to represent their wealth, potatoes, a rope, with knots, representing the ancient system of record keeping, called quipus, a penguin statue (yes they have penguins in Peru), and palm fronds to represent the Amazon rain forest.  Finally, a soccer ball was added, as it is their national sport.

Our first course was ceviche; the national dish of Peru.  Ceviche is so loved and is part of its national heritage.  It actually has its own holiday on June 28^th of each year.  This ceviche was one of the best we have ever had.  It was unique in that, besides the delectable seabass, it had sweet potatoes and giant kernels of toasted corn.  It was flavored with aji peppers, red onion and a citrusy flavored marinade, made with fresh lemon and lime.  The ceviche was served with the marinade, in the tradition of cevicherias and is called, leche de tigre or “tigers milk.”

For the main course we had their famous, pollo a la brasa.  This dish is loved in Peru but may be more famous in the USA.  It just may be the best chicken ever.  It was a split, roasted chicken, lightly seasoned with vinegar, cumin and pepper.  It was tender and succulent.  But it’s the sauces, for which the Peruvians are so famous, and into which you dip the bites of chicken, that make the dish.  The two sauces we had were, aji verde and aji de huacatay,  (which was my favorite.)  Both sauces are phenomenal and the dishes you can use them on are endless.  The aji verde is very common and flavored with aji paste, chilies, cilantro, lime, garlic, oil, cheese and mayo, all blended together.  The aji de huacatay is also made with cilantro, aji paste, garlic, and oil but has the addition of huacatay paste, which can be found in your Latin market.  Huacatay is a fresh herb, that tastes somewhere between basil and mint.  It is sometimes called black mint and is related to the marigold and tarragon families.  These sauces were off the charts, amazing.  We actually did not have a side dish, but potatoes, cooked anyway you like, would be a great accompaniment  and totally authentic.

For dessert we enjoyed suspiro de limena, which is a caramel meringue, parfait that is exceptionally sweet and delicious.  The name of the dessert, literally translated means, “the sigh of a Lima lady.”  I think that pretty much sums it up.

After our feast, we took our pisco sours, (made with Peruvian pisco, as the base liquor and lime, which makes up the sour, along with bitters, egg whites and a simple syrup,) to enjoy, as we watched Wild Peru, by National Geographic.  This film highlights the amazing biodiversity of the land and sea of Peru.  Did you know you can swim with pink dolphins there?  By the way, Peru also has a national holiday, in honor of the cocktail, pisco sour, which happens the first Saturday of every February.

I leave you with my favorite Peruvian Proverb:

“It is better to prevent than cure.”

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

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