Search Results for: Costa rica

“Rich Coast” is what Costa Rica means in Spanish and the name given by early explorers looking for gold. As it turns out, Costa Rica was not rich in gold but rich in many other ways. She is a tropical country located in Central America. Having borders on both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, her neighbors are Nicaragua to the north and Panama to the south. Costa Rica gained independence from Spain in 1821 as part of the Mexican Empire. The majority of the population is mestizo, a mix of European, mainly Spanish and other descents. The balance are native Indians, indigenous to the area. Spanish is the official language, although English is commonly spoken. Roman Catholic is the official religion with many others practiced as well, as they endorse an open tolerance policy in the country. Costa Rica abolished their military in 1949, after a brief civil war, becoming the first, of only a few sovereign nations, without a standing army.

“My country is your country”, was the first thing our taxi driver said to us upon our arrival. We flew into the capital city of San Jose for a fishing expedition on the Caribbean side. The people of Costa Rica are called Ticos or Ticas, depending upon their gender. While we waited for our plane we enjoyed some bocas (appetizers) and a cerveza (Imperial, the local brew.) We then boarded a small prop plane and flew to our lodge, located in the jungle near the small village of Barra del Parismina. This is where our adventure would begin.

The lodge was nestled amongst every type of palm variety imaginable. Bougainvillea’s, hibiscus and orchids (their national flower) in all the colors of the rainbow, abounded. The sound of the jungle was amazing; birds chirping and humming, cicadas singing us their welcoming tune. This small country, at only 20,000 square miles, has five percent of the world’s bio-diversity; the most, based on size, of any other country in the world.

Howler monkeys were our five a.m. wakeup call to start off our day. Soon a potful of aromatic (and robust) Costa Rican coffee was delivered to our door. Coffee is a major export of Costa Rica and there are many different, gourmet brews of coffee produced there. From the mid 19th century, decorated ox carts called “carretas”, were used to haul the coffee beans from the central valley over the mountains to the Pacific coast. This journey would take 10 to 15 days. The carreta was ornately decorated as a matter of regional pride. Each cart would create a unique song, produced from the metal ring hitting the wheel’s hubnut, as it bounced along the muddy trails. The decorated carreta, although a fading art form today, is considered Costa Rica’s national symbol.

We came to Costa Rica for the fishing, known to be a phenomenal exploration. On our first outing, we glided down the jungle rivers and then headed out into the Caribbean Sea. We fished for snook and tarpon, however the waters were ripe with bull sharks. Our guide’s keen navigational skills, while heading in and out through the mouth of the river to the Caribbean, were duly noted. He told us stories along the way of the many fatalities befalling those that did not respect just how treacherous the river can be. This certainly added an interesting level of excitement to our adventure which was well worth it, we caught behemoth tarpon, many snook and some very interesting river fish.

The sun rises and sets at the same time in Costa Rica, 365 days a year, due to its proximity to the equator. The lodge provided these beautifully crafted rocking chairs, made locally, of wood and leather that were set out on the veranda for enjoying the sunset. (We loved them so much we had to ship a couple home.) After fishing, we relaxed on the veranda and shared stories with the other guests. All at once, an awesome thunderstorm developed and ripped across the grounds. The staff seemed to take this in stride, as trade winds and heavy rainfall are common on the Caribbean side of the country. In fact, the mountains receive almost 200 inches of rain per year.

On our last night at the lodge, we feasted on grilled snook, that we had caught that day while surf casting. The snook was served with their famous black beans and rice, along with a delightful hearts of palm salad. Our meal was superb.

The trip so far, was everything we imagined it to be and more. We had such an incredible time, we decided to change our plans and extend our stay. To complete the journey, we wanted to fish and explore the Pacific side of Costa Rica. The lodge graciously made our arrangements to stay at a beautiful resort and for the prop plane that would take us there.

The plane ride over the country was something to behold. There is always a unique perspective gained while seeing a country from the air. The land is so lush and breathtakingly beautiful. Flying over the middle of the country we saw many volcanoes, some of which are still active, producing earthquakes in the regions. We also noticed plantations of bananas, coffee and sugarcane. (Costa Rica is the second largest exporter of bananas after Ecuador.) Each of the villages had a cleared, green patch for soccer, or futbol, as it is called in Spanish. It is their national sport. Of course, the cities have many soccer fields as well and we were told that even if you are not watching the game, you know if the national team has scored based on the honking of horns and shouts heard in the streets.

The plane landed on a dirt strip, no airport or building or anything of the sort was there. The pilot unloaded our luggage and said someone would come to pick us up. We wandered around a bit, and then sat on our luggage for a good 45 minutes, as we started to get a little concerned. We could see a small road in the distance and decided to head that way and see if we could find a phone somewhere. We came upon a very small village of about a dozen houses. Chickens and pigs lined the roads looking for grub and happy children played among them. Thankfully we found someone who informed us, that the only phone in town was at the blue house down the road. Just about the time we arrived at the blue house, a jeep came honking its horn looking for us. It was our ride to the resort.

After about a 45 minute jeep ride through the verdant jungle on dirt roads, we arrived at the most beautiful resort, located right on the shore of the Pacific Ocean. Our room was not quite ready, so we enjoyed a lunch of arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) with potato chips. This dish is commonly served throughout the country. It is full of all sorts of vegetables as well, so it’s a well-rounded dish that is sometimes served with French fries instead of potato chips. On the tables everywhere in Costa Rica you will find a bottle of Linzano salsa. It is interesting salsa and not easy to describe. It’s not spicy but has a unique flavor that grows on you and you find yourself putting it on everything and missing it dearly when you return home. It is not easily found outside of Costa Rica, so be sure to stock up while you are there!

During lunch, my husband inquired about a fishing boat for the next day. Much to our dismay, we learned there was a fishing tournament going on and there were no boats to be found locally. They told us there is one small, 18 foot, Boston Whaler, located in a town called Tamarindo, about a three hour cab ride away. I would have been more than happy to chill at this beautiful oasis for a few days, but that was not to be. Off we went in the cab to Tamarindo.

The hotel was small and nothing like the resort we left behind, but it would do. We planned to explore the town in the afternoon and my husband would be able to fish in the Pacific the next day. There are many expats living in Costa Rica from the United States and elsewhere. We met several while we were out exploring and it is easy to see their attraction to this place. The country is stunningly beautiful and the people are so friendly. Everywhere we went, we encountered a greeting. They would say “Pura Vida”, meaning “pure life”, a way to express how they felt about this country.

My husband left early the next morning for his fishing expedition and the boat picked him up right on the beach in front of our hotel. He could write a book just on the fishing trip that day, but suffice it to say in just three short hours he hooked up 26 and caught 13 billfish: mostly sailfish but some marlin, with double, triple and even quadruple hook ups. Of course he didn’t get them all to the boat. (It is the ones that get away that make the best fishing stories.) Costa Rica has a catch and release policy to ensure that sport fishing remains one of its best tourist attractions. It was one of his best fishing days ever; a memory for a lifetime!

Tourism has taken over as the number one source of economic wealth for Costa Rica. It is easy to see why. Eco-tourism was pioneered there, with many ways to experience the flourishing, tropical country, ripe with adventure and wonderful, welcoming people. What’s not to love?

We headed back to the capital city of San Jose and we ended our trip with lunch at a local restaurant. We ordered a popular meal called “casado”, which means “marriage” in Spanish. The meal was served on a banana leaf. It was rice, black beans, roast pork, a salad of cabbage, tomatoes and onions, with a light citrus dressing and a fried plantain.

The cuisine in Costa Rica is well balanced and hearty. It is not spicy, as one might think, but very tasty. Rice and beans are part of every meal. For breakfast, the rice and beans are mixed together in a dish called “gallo pinto” or “spotted rooster.” Often the dish is made with leftovers from the night before and served with eggs, fresh cheese and a fried plantain.

Fresh fruits and vegetables are found everywhere, as well as freshly baked pastries to enjoy with your coffee. You will also see the locals with a machete whacking off the top of a green coconut and inserting a straw into it for a refreshing drink. Ceviche is another one of the country’s most popular dishes, usually made with fresh sea bass or tilapia. On both coasts you will find a wide variety of seafood, such as calamari, crab and lobster. Seafood is sometimes substituted for pork or chicken in casado.

So let’s eat Tico Style:

The Menu
Starter
Ceviche

Soup
Sopa Negra (Black Bean Soup)

Main Course
Arroz Con Pollo (Rice with Chicken)

Served with

Ensalada de Palmita  Hearts of Palm Salad

Dessert
Tres Leches (Cake made of three types of milk)

We set the table using the colors of the Costa Rican flag, which are red white and blue. We had a few souvenirs from our trip, which we added to our table as well. One decoration was a rose made from tarpon scales and another, a beautiful, hand crafted wooden bowl and of course coffee beans. In Costa Rica, time is known as Tico time, or “la hora tica”, as Costa Ricans are habitually late by about 30 minutes. This is customary and never considered rude. It sets the tone for their easy-going ways.

We began the meal with a delicious ceviche, made with fresh tilapia and served in avocado bowls. It was scrumptious. They use a secret ingredient in their ceviche, ginger-ale, for just the right balance of sweet and sour. An Imperal cerveza was the perfect complement.

Next, we had a black bean soup, called sopa negra. The garnishes of sour cream, avocado, radish and hard-boiled egg, made this soup exceptional.

The main course, arroz con pollo, was prepared in the manner it came to us in Costa Rica, with potato chips, mixed in for a little added crunch. We accompanied it with an outstanding, hearts of palm, salad.

For dessert, we chose the national dessert, called tres leches. It is a delicious cake that is served wet, as it is made with three types of milk and covered with whipped cream. A hot cup of Costa Rican coffee added a soothing warmth as we reminisced about our fantastic trip to this beautiful, tropical paradise, called Costa Rica.

We sat back in our rocking chairs and toasted to “Pura Vida.” Muchas gracias Costa Rica!

Until next week,
Warmest regards
Darlene

How did Panama get its name?

Theories abound about how Panama got its name.  Some believe that it was named after a tree known as the Panama tree (Sterculia apetala).  Another theory is that the first settlers arrived in August, when butterflies are abundant and that the name means “many butterflies” in an indigenous language.  The most believed version is that a fishing village and beach were called Panama, which meant “an abundance of fish,”  It was discovered by the Spanish, while they explored the area in 1515, and stopped in this small fishing village.  The official definition, approved by the Ministry of Education, is that Panama means “abundance of fish, trees and butterflies.”  However, there are some that believe the name means “distant or far away” which stems from the word “bannaba” in the Kuna Language.  Today it is officially known as the Republic of Panama.

Where is Panama located?

Panama is located in Central America.  It is an “S” shaped isthmus that connects north and south America and separates the Atlantic Ocean (Caribbean Sea) from the Pacific Ocean (Gulf of Panama).  Its unique coastlines run east and west, rather than north and south.  Panama is the only place on earth where you can see the sun rise over the Pacific and set on the Atlantic.  It is also a place where, if you hike up to the highest peak, you can see both coasts on a clear day.  Panama is also blessed with no hurricanes or earthquakes, a rarity in this area.  Panama lies in between Costa Rica and Colombia.  It has a year round tropical climate, with high humidity.  This tropical environment supports an abundance of plants and jungles.  About 40 percent of Panama is wooded.  Subsistence farming is the way of life of Panamanians, from the northeastern jungles to the southwestern grasslands.   They grow mainly corn, beans, sugarcane, coffee and tubers.  There are also large banana plantations, in the swamp areas near Costa Rica.

A Brief History of Panama

The first humans that lived in Panama are believed to have arrived there around 11,000 B.C. By 2,500 B.C., the indigenous people were making pottery, and trading with others as far north as Mexico, and as far south as Peru.  The original native American tribes were, the Cocle and Cuevas people.  The Spanish were the first Europeans to arrive, in 1501.  As is typical after colonization, most of the native people died from diseases brought in by the Europeans, for which they had no immunity.  The Spanish also enslaved the native people and when they did not have enough people left, they started importing slaves from Africa.

In 1513, Vasca de Balboa made his famous trek from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, across the isthmus of Panama.  This trip was a critical turning point for Panama, in becoming a major trading center.  This was a short cut, saving ships from having to travel all the way around the cape.  For years, goods brought to the shores of Panama, trekked across the land and were put on ships bound for Spain.  It was, however, a dangerous road, nicknamed the “Camino de Cruces” or “Road of the Crosses”, due to all the people who died along the way.  Spain ruled over Panama for nearly 300 years, until Panama left the Spanish Empire and became part of Columbia.

In 1903 Colombia and Panama had a disagreement about the United States building a canal across Panama.  With the support of the USA, Panama broke away from Columbia and declared their independence on Nov 3, 1903.  There are three days celebrated each year in Panama:  November 3-5.  It begins with Separation Day, then Flag Day and ending with Colon’ Day, celebrated for when the citizens of Colon’ averted a march on Panama City by the Colombian Army.  They also celebrate their independence from Spain on November 28, each year.

The famous Panama Canal was completed in 1914 and Panama remained a US territory until 1979, when they took total control over the canal on December 31, 1999.  The canal is an artificial waterway that connects two oceans.  It was widened to allow the larger ships to pass.  The widening project was completed in June of 2016.  The canal accounts for 1/3^rd of Panamas GDP, as tolls are paid for the ships to cross.  The lowest toll was $.36  and was paid by Richard Halliburton who swam through the canal in 1928.  Today, the average fee is $54,000 for shipping vessels.  The canal has been named one of the seven wonders of the modern world.

Panama has suffered, like many countries, with dictators that did not have the people’s best interest at heart.  One such dictator was Manuel Noriega, who spent many years in US custody on drug trafficking charges.  He was then extradited to France where he spent a seven year imprisonment for money laundering.  In 2011, France extradited him back to Panama where he was incarcerated for crimes committed during his rule and where he ultimately died.  Panama has since had fair elections and even elected their first woman president in 1999.

Today Panama is on a great path of prosperity with tourism, and banking. They have excellent tax incentives for foreign investment and for Americans who want to call Panama their home.

Panama Culture

The population of Panama is a mix of creoles, mestizos, European immigrants, Africans and indigenous Indians.  It is a popular place for Americans to retire. There is also a small Chinese population.  The total population is nearly 4,000,000.  About 85 percent of the population is Roman Catholic, while traditional beliefs have been maintained among the native Americans.  The most important ritual celebrated is Carnaval, for which the capital closes down for five days, before Ash Wednesday.

The currency is the US dollar and the official language is Spanish, although many speak English and indigenous languages as well.  Panama is also famous for its traditional dress. Women wear the pollera, which is a blouse and long skirt.  It is formed by multicolored cloth and intricate embroidery.  Panama celebrates Pollera Day each July 22.   The men wear a white long sleeved shirt called a camisilla, black long pants and a straw hat with black lines.  A small bag hangs on the left side of the body and black and white shoes are worn to complete the outfit.  These costumes are worn during Carnaval, folklore events and town festivities.  Their costumes have received international praise, mainly due to the pollera’s complex design.

Why Visit Panama

Panama City is the capital city and where most of the population resides.  It is famous for its ultra-modern skyline.  Panama has become important for banking and insurance.  It is known as the financial hub of Latin America.  Aside from the tall modern buildings, Panama City also has a historic old quarter that is four avenues wide and completely filled with charm.   It is called Casca Veijo and is protected by UNESCO.  The old Quarter has narrow brick roads and grand old colonial houses with stunning pastel facades.  It is a wonderful place to enjoy dinner and drinks.  Panama City is also the only metropolis that boasts a tropical rainforest within the city limits.  The Natural Metropolitan Park is a draw for nature lovers.

Panama, having two coasts and 500 rivers, along with jungles and rain forests, makes the country an adventure traveler’s dream.  Water sports of every imaginable type are found here.  Turquoise water and golden beaches are also a huge draw, as is the canal  itself.  Home to all sorts of wildlife, there are 125 animal species found there that are found nowhere else in the world.  Panama is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 900 species.  One of the most sought after birds, the harpy eagle, can weigh up to 20 lbs. and is the national bird of Panama.

Panamanian Cuisine

Panamanian cuisine is as diverse as its population.  Each ethnic group brings its own blend of spices, recipes, ingredients and cooking methods.  The cuisine is generally a fusion of Latin, Afro-Caribbean, Asian and indigenous cultures.  Along both coasts, the diet consists mainly of coconut, seafood, root vegetables and tropical fruits.  Inland, the communities are based on agriculture, so they enjoy mainly root vegetables, plus, beans and rice and fruits.  Livestock, such as cows, chickens and pigs are also commonly eaten.  Corn is a staple ingredient but not too many greens are consumed.  However, they do use a cousin to cilantro, in their national dish called, sancocho.  Beer is popular all over the country.  Generally speaking, the cuisine is somewhat mild, except for a few spicy dishes on the Caribbean side.

So let’s enjoy a Panamanian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Ceviche de Corvina (White Sea Bass Ceviche)

Main Dish

Sancocho (Traditional Chicken Soup)

Dessert

Cocadas (Coconut Cookies)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red white and blue.  We placed orchids of purple and white, as that is the national flower of Panama, with over 1200 varieties.  A ship was added to represent the very important Panama Canal and a piggy bank to represent the financial haven Panama has become.  A butterfly represented the land of butterflies.  We included a cart of coffee, as it is an important crop and also a Panama hat (that are actually made in Ecuador) but made famous in Panama.

We began our meal with buen provencho, which means bon-appetit in Spanish.  Our starter course was an amazing white sea bass ceviche.  The dish was made with fresh white sea bass and shrimp. It also had celery, which added a wonderful texture. The fish was “cooked” in lemon juice.  It was served with chips and saltine crackers and was an immediate hit.

The main course was sancocho which in Spanish means, “to parboil.”  It is a popular dish in many Latin countries, although each country adds its own interpretation.  This sancocho is made with chicken and root vegetables, such as yam or yucca.  It is the flavoring of culantro that makes this Panamanian dish unique.  Culantro,tastes similar to cilantro, but is a bit stronger.  Ultimately, this is a hearty chicken soup that is known to cure whatever ails you, (especially a hangover.)  We loved it!

For dessert, we had delicious coconut cookies, called cocades.  They are similar to a macaroon, except they are made with sweetened, condensed milk, instead of eggs.  They were perfect with a cup of Panamanian coffee, for which they are now famous.  They grow a particular type, called Geisha that originally came from Ethiopia but has been growing very well in Panama.  This coffee lacks the bitter or sour notes and sells for about $40/lb.  You can pick some up here if you would like to try it.

After dinner, we decided to go for a dance lesson.  Panamanians love to gather together and dance.  Punto panmeño is considered to be the most elegant and beautiful of dances.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Nicaragua’s nickname, “The Land of Lakes and Volcanoes,” is a good description of this beautiful Central American nation.  The actual name of Nicaragua is believed to stem from Nicarao, the name of the people who inhabited the area on the shores of Lake Cocibolca, (now called Lake Nicaragua) when the Spanish conquest first arrived.  This name, Nicarao, combined with the Spanish name for water, agua, is how the country got its name.

The country has two land neighbors; Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south.  Its eastern border lies along the Caribbean Sea and its western border along the Pacific Ocean.  Lago de’ Nicaragua or Lake Nicaragua is located in the southwestern area of the country.  Aside from this massive lake there is another large lake called Lake Managua.  Additionally, the area has over 400 volcanoes.  Nicaraguans use steam from their many volcanoes as geothermal energy.  They also are home to the “Dual Volcano.” It is the only volcano in the world that is fed by two different magma flows. The area also has many lagoons and rivers in the region.  Additionally, there are small islands, called cays, located in the Caribbean Sea.

The country is made up of three geographical regions: the pacific lowlands, in the west, the Caribbean lowlands, in the east (also known as the Mosquito Coast) and the central highlands, located between the two.  When the Spanish arrived in the early 1500s, there were three main tribes residing in these areas, each, its own monarchy, headed by a chief.  Many of these indigenous people later died from diseases the Spanish brought over, as well as from tribal wars.  Today the population of Nicaragua is mostly mestizo, about 17 % white, 5% Amerindian and 9% black. The black population lives mostly on the east coast where the community primarily speaks English and Creole.  For a time, from 1633 until 1860, the British controlled this area on the east coast.

Managua, the most populous city and also the capital, is located on the southwestern shore of Lake Managua.  The total population of Nicaragua is just over six million. The population is young and has one of the healthiest growth rates in the region.  Most Nica’s, as they are called, live in urban areas.  This is a good thing since they do not have addresses in Nicaragua.  People get their mail based on their proximity to a known landmark.  Spanish is the official language, although English, Creole and indigenous languages are also spoken. The literacy rate is 82 percent and education is compulsory for only six years.

Nicaragua gained independence from Spain in September of 1821, however they then became part of the Mexican Empire.  Eventually Nicaragua gained complete independence on April 30, 1838.   Independence, however, brought years of conflict between the conservatives and liberals.  There was even a brief time an American, named William Walker, decided to take control of the country and declared himself president/dictator, with the idea of annexing the region to the United States as a slave state.  This occurred from 1856 to 1857.  He was forced out a few years later.

The Somoza regime was Nicaragua’s longest lasting hereditary, military, dictatorship and ruled there for 43 years.  After a few other leaders, it was the Sandinistas who took charge, which eventually led to the counter, revolutionary forces (who were financed and trained by the U.S. CIA.)  They were called the Contras, which led to the “Iran-Contra” scandal during President Reagan’s administration in the USA.  The U.S. had concerns with the country’s ties to Cuba, Venezuela and Russia.  Over the years, millions of dollars in aid were given to the government, especially after Hurricane Mitch in 1988, which was one of the worst hurricanes in their history.  There has been massive corruption over the years, leaving nearly half of Nicaragua’s people living in poverty, on only $2 a day.  Despite strong opposition from the U.S. and stifling embargos, Daniel Ortega (a known Sandinista), won reelection.  Today, the country maintains relations with the U.S. and its rivals, such as Iran, and Venezuela.  Despite apprehension concerning Ortega’s leadership, he has taken Nicaragua to new heights.  Nicaragua was recently listed on the happiness index, as the top country on the rise for happiness in the last decade.  The people in the county believe things are getting better.

Tourism is an important piece of Nicaragua’s growing economy.  Each year, for the past decade, it has grown some ten percent.  Nicaragua’s west coast is known worldwide for its spectacular surfing beaches.  Lake Nicaragua is also a huge tourist attraction.  Kayaking through spectacular islets and hiking volcanoes are also tourist attractions.  Coffee tours are trendy, as Nicaragua is a big exporter of coffee.  Other exports include: beef, shrimp, lobster, tobacco, sugar, gold and peanuts and textiles and apparel are on the rise.  Nicaragua is part of the CAFTA-DR, a free trade agreement that has been a major contributor to their growth.

Nicaragua is filled with natural beauty and extremely, warm and hospitable people.  The city of Granada was the first city to be settled by the Spanish and has some of the most well-preserved Spanish, colonial style architecture.  Leon is another popular, city destination.  It used to be the capital city, up until 1857, and is home to the National University.  It is also home to the Ruins of Leon Viejo, dating back to the 16^th century.  This site is Nicaragua’s only UNESCO World Heritage site.  Nicaragua is a laid back country and one that is among the safest to visit in the Central America. While it is replete with volcanoes, rainforests, mangrove forests, beautiful islands and spectacular beaches, it is, nonetheless, the friendly locals that will leave you with the fondest memories.

As we look into the cuisine of Nicaragua, or “La Comida Nica” (as they call it), is a Latin creole mix of indigenous and Spanish dishes.  Corn, rice, beans, plantains, yucca and pork are all common ingredients, as is seafood, along the coast.  They have an extensive variety of tropical fruits, which they incorporate into their diet.  Nacatamales are their national treasure.  They fill their tamales with meat, vegetables, olives and prunes and wrap them in banana leaves.

So let’s enjoy a Nicaraguan meal:

The Menu

Starter

Quesillo (Corn Tortilla with Melted Cheese)

Salad

Vigoron (Yuca, Pork Rind and Cabbage Salad)

Main Course

Nacatamales (Nicaraguan Tamale)

Served with

Gallo Pinto ( Red Beans and Rice)

Dessert

Buneulos de Yuca (Cassava Donuts)

We set the scene with the colors of the Nicaraguan flag; blue and white.  The blue represents the two coasts and the white symbolizes peace.  We placed a Saint candle on the table, as nearly every village in Nicaragua has a named, village Saint and all the festivities to go along with it.  We also included a cross, as most of the population is Roman Catholic.  Also a baseball bat was added, since it is the national sport (even beating out soccer, another very popular sport there.)  Also we included an ear of corn, as it is such an important staple ingredient.  Many drinks are made from corn as well as their tamales and tortillas.  Lastly we placed a banana leaf along with some coffee beans.

We began our meal with a toast, “Salud”, which means, “Cheers” in Spanish followed by, “Buen Provencho”, which means,”Bon Appetit.”  The appetizer was called quesillo, which means “little cheese. “ The tortilla surrounded a soft, white cheese that goes by the same name.  It is somewhat similar to mozzarella cheese and it is then topped with picked onions, and sour cream and vinegar.  They are usually served at a roadside stands in a thin, plastic sleeve; warm cheese in a tortilla, simply magnifico!

We then savored another very popular dish called Vigoron.  It is believed that this dish was developed in Granada, Nicaragua by a woman who went by “La Loca” or “Crazy Woman.”  She named the dish Vigoron, after seeing a poster advertising an early medicinal tonic, back  in 1914.  This dish consistis of a salad, known as curtido, that has cabbage, tomatoes, onion, chili pepper and lime, then boiled yuca root and fried pork belly or pork rinds are added. We loved it!

For the main course we had the famous nacatamales.  The masa is somewhat similar to a regular, mexican style, tamale masa however, they use a bitter orange in it.  The filling is typically pork with rice, onion, pepper, potato, green olives and prunes.  The meat  is seasoned with anchiote.  The biggest difference in this dish and a traditional tamale is that this tamale is wrapped in a banana leaf instead of a corn husk.  This imparts a wonderful flavor to the tamale.  The banana leaf is secured with twine and then the tamale is steamed to perfection.  (You do not eat the banana leaf).  This nacatamale was very filling but we managed to enjoy it with the gallo pinto; another staple dish of rice and beans mixed together.  It is typically made with day old rice and small, red kidney beans.  It is flavored with garlic, onion and  chicken stock and fried together for a delicious side dish.  Often in Nicaragua, gallo pinto would be a main dish, as opposed to a side, offering the balance of protein with carbohydrates, for an inexpensive, yet robust, meal.

For dessert we took the hot and syrupy, cassava donuts, called Buneulos de yuca along with a nice, strong cup of coffee outside, into the night air.  We wanted to see what constellations we could find.  In Nicaragua, you can see 86 of the 88 constellations.  It was a beautiful, clear summer night and a perfect ending to our Nicaraguan meal.

Until next time,

Muchas Gracias! (Thank you, very much)

Darlene Longacre

How did Peru get its name?

Garcilaso de la Vega, was the first one to shed light of how Peru got its name.  Vega was born, the son of a Spanish conquistador and an Incan princess, in 1539.  He was one of the first to write detailed accounts of the Incas and Spanish conquests in Peru.  His book was published in 1609, was called, The Royal Commentaries of the Incas.

The story goes that in 1513, Spaniard Vasco Nunez de Balboa discovered the South Sea.  He spotted a native Indian who was quietly fishing at the mouth of an estuary.  His crew captured the native and hauled him aboard the boat.  After finally calming him down, the Spanish attempted to ask him questions about the unknown land.  Scared and confused but wanting to please his captors, he blurted out the word Beru, which was actually his name.  He then blurted out a second word, Pelu, which means, “river” in the Inca language.  The Spanish combined the two words to create what we know the country to be called today; Peru.  (The Incas and natives knew their country as Ttahuatin-Suya, meaning, “the four-quarters of the world.”)

Where is Peru Located?

Peru is located on the western border of South America.  Her neighbors are Ecuador and Columbia to the north, Brazil to the east, Bolivia to the southeast, Chile to the south and the Pacific Ocean to the west.  It is the third largest country on the continent, behind Argentina and Brazil.  Lima is the capital city and its main economic hub.

Peru has enormous biodiversity, with ninety distinct microclimates.  It is listed among the ten most biodiverse countries in the world.  The coastal plain, (costa) is a narrow strip of desert land that runs the length of the country.  There is an upland region, (sierra) the highland, which includes the very high mountain ranges of the Andes, as well as gorges and deep valleys.  There are many rivers that are born in the Andes and descend to the Pacific, allowing for irrigation to serve a very arid region.  The east is home to the tropical Amazon basin’s rain forest, jungle (selva), and the Amazon River.  Lake Titicaca, lies between Peru and Bolivia and is the largest lake in all of South America.  It is also the highest in altitude, navigable lake in all the world.  In Andean belief, Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun.  Its waters are renowned for stillness and bright reflections.  Jacques Cousteau discovered ruins of an ancient city under the lake’s surface, He also discovered the descendants of the Quechua people, who still live on the islands today.

A Brief History of Peru

Peru has an ancient history, stemming from various tribal groups that lived there.  In the 12^th century, the small city state of Cuzco was formed by the Killkes tribe.  This began the formidable era of the Incan Empire.  Over the next several hundred years, the Incas managed to conquer not only Peru but also parts of Ecuador, Bolivia and northern Chile.  They had a highly developed civilization when the Spanish arrived there in 1531.  Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, conquered and captured Cuzco in 1533.  Peru was a great source of wealth and power for the Spanish, mostly from the gold and silver discovered in the Andes Mountains.  In 1535, Pizarro established Lima as the capital of Peru, which remains so today.  With the help of others, from Bolivia and Venezuela, Peru was able to defeat the Spanish and become a free country in 1821, when they declared their independence.

Like many newly independent countries, Peru went through a difficult time with coups, dictatorships, military rule and wars with guerilla groups fighting against the government.  In recent history, Alberto Fujimori, won three consecutive terms, despite being accused of fraud.  He then stunned the nation when he resigned during a trip to Japan.  Revelations that Fujimori secretly held Japanese citizenship outraged the populace, since he could not be extradited to face corruption charges.  Eventually he ended up in Chile to pursue his political ambitions.  There he was arrested and sentenced to 25 years in prison.  He was recently pardoned, after serving only 12 years, as he is suffering from cancer.  The pardon caused outrage, once again.  Despite Fujimori’s crimes against humanity, he did some good things for the economy, which continues to thrive.  Their economy is dependent on its many commodities, but prices do fluctuate with the world markets.  They are the world’s second largest producer of silver and copper. They are the sixth largest producer of gold; mining 162 tons of gold a year.  Peru’s coastal waters provide for excellent fishing grounds.  Fish and agriculture are very important to their growing economy, as are minerals and natural resources.  Tourism continues to contribute more than ever to this nation’s economic growth.

Peruvian Culture

With more than 10,000 years of history, Peru is filled with a great wealth of culture and tradition.  As the oldest civilization in South America, Peru is home to many riches.  Peruvians fully recognize the importance today of their heritage and the value the Andes and the Amazon offer in natural resources and ancient traditions.

Spanish is the official language, along with Quechua and Aymara.  There are 45 other native languages that are spoken as well.  Catholicism is the predominant religion in Peru and is very important in the lives of Peruvians.  Yet they exist peacefully alongside other belief systems including indigenous beliefs, with shamans and medicine men playing important roles.

The coca plant (the same one used to make cocaine) has been used for thousands of years in the Andean world.  It is used for its medicinal properties and religious significance.  Coca leaves, which are brewed in tea, are particularly effective against altitude sickness, which is helpful at high elevations.

Since pre-Hispanic times, music and dance have played vital roles in Peruvian society.  Ancient Peruvians used seashells and reeds, along with animal bones, to produce sounds.  Weaving is another prominent art form in Peru.  It is believed that every form of weaving known today, was invented by the Peruvians.  It is estimated it takes somewhere between 500 to 600 hours to spin, dye and weave a traditional poncho.  They are typically given as gifts to one who enters adulthood and it is expected to last them a lifetime.

In Cuzco, Peruvian history is displayed in the architecture.  Here you will find Spanish, colonial style churches and dwellings built directly on top of their old Incan stone temples.

Why Visit Peru?

Peru, being home to amazing biodiversity, is one of the most unique and colorful places to visit on the planet.  Peru has 25,000 plant species, it ranks first in the world in distinct fish species, second for species of birds and third for amphibians and mammals.  It is home to 12 UNESCO world heritage sites, including the famous Machu Picchu that was recently deemed one of the Seven New Wonders of the World.  It was uncovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham and today displays the pride and complexity of the ancient Inca civilization as one of the most popular tourist destinations. The stone work, masterfully constructed to be seismically stable, is one of the mysteries of this ancient site.

Peru is also home to numerous natural wonders, including Rainbow Mountain and the Painted Hills, where mineral deposits color the landscape like a rainbow. The Cerro Blanco sand dune, located in the south of Peru, is the highest in the world.  Peru’s Nazca Lines, are a collection of more than 70, giant, human and animal geoglyphs.  There are 10,000 lines, some of them are up to 30 miles long and it remains one of the world’s biggest, archeological mysteries that was never even discovered until man took flight.  The Andes, the beautiful coastlines, deserts, the Amazon basin and rivers, and Lake Titicaca are all great reasons to visit Peru.  However, it may just be worth a visit there for the gastronomy alone; it is one of the best cuisines in all the world.

Peruvian Cuisine

The diversity of Peru’s agricultural production comes from its microclimates and varied geography.  Peru’s multiple cultures along with the brilliance of her chefs, have enriched the cuisine to the point of it being recognized as one of the best in the world.  Gastronomy has become such an important element in the lives of Peruvians, it is part of the national identity.  The cuisine of Peru is both ancient and modern.  It is a fusion of the indigenous population along with contributions of immigrants from Europe, (mainly Spain, Italy and Germany), Asia (China and Japan) and West Africa.   Imagine a cuisine where there are the over 3800 varieties of potatoes.  Corn is available in every color, shape and size, along with rich grains, like quinoa.  We certainly can’t forget the abundant seafood, especially their amazing ceviche, available all along the coast.  High in the Andean region, cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca, are popular sources of meat.  It is, however, the native aji chilies, pureed into amazing sauces, that just might be their most delicious contribution.  The flavors of Peruvian cuisine are bold, rich, and spicy.  Yet they can be subtle and complex, as well.  You will certainly want to enjoy the amazing flavors of this cuisine with their famous pisco sour; Peru’s national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Peruvian Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peruvian Ceviche (Peru’s National Dish)

Main Dish

Split Roasted Chicken (Pollo a la Brasa)

Served with

Two Peruvian Sauces ( Aji Verde & Aji de Huacatay)

Dessert

Caramel Meringue Parfait (Suspiro de Limena)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red and white.  We placed dolls, hand crafted by natives, to represent the Incan empire, a photo of the magnificent Machu Picchu, a yellow aji pepper, silver and gold coins to represent their wealth, potatoes, a rope, with knots, representing the ancient system of record keeping, called quipus, a penguin statue (yes they have penguins in Peru), and palm fronds to represent the Amazon rain forest.  Finally, a soccer ball was added, as it is their national sport.

Our first course was ceviche; the national dish of Peru.  Ceviche is so loved and is part of its national heritage.  It actually has its own holiday on June 28^th of each year.  This ceviche was one of the best we have ever had.  It was unique in that, besides the delectable seabass, it had sweet potatoes and giant kernels of toasted corn.  It was flavored with aji peppers, red onion and a citrusy flavored marinade, made with fresh lemon and lime.  The ceviche was served with the marinade, in the tradition of cevicherias and is called, leche de tigre or “tigers milk.”

For the main course we had their famous, pollo a la brasa.  This dish is loved in Peru but may be more famous in the USA.  It just may be the best chicken ever.  It was a split, roasted chicken, lightly seasoned with vinegar, cumin and pepper.  It was tender and succulent.  But it’s the sauces, for which the Peruvians are so famous, and into which you dip the bites of chicken, that make the dish.  The two sauces we had were, aji verde and aji de huacatay,  (which was my favorite.)  Both sauces are phenomenal and the dishes you can use them on are endless.  The aji verde is very common and flavored with aji paste, chilies, cilantro, lime, garlic, oil, cheese and mayo, all blended together.  The aji de huacatay is also made with cilantro, aji paste, garlic, and oil but has the addition of huacatay paste, which can be found in your Latin market.  Huacatay is a fresh herb, that tastes somewhere between basil and mint.  It is sometimes called black mint and is related to the marigold and tarragon families.  These sauces were off the charts, amazing.  We actually did not have a side dish, but potatoes, cooked anyway you like, would be a great accompaniment  and totally authentic.

For dessert we enjoyed suspiro de limena, which is a caramel meringue, parfait that is exceptionally sweet and delicious.  The name of the dessert, literally translated means, “the sigh of a Lima lady.”  I think that pretty much sums it up.

After our feast, we took our pisco sours, (made with Peruvian pisco, as the base liquor and lime, which makes up the sour, along with bitters, egg whites and a simple syrup,) to enjoy, as we watched Wild Peru, by National Geographic.  This film highlights the amazing biodiversity of the land and sea of Peru.  Did you know you can swim with pink dolphins there?  By the way, Peru also has a national holiday, in honor of the cocktail, pisco sour, which happens the first Saturday of every February.

I leave you with my favorite Peruvian Proverb:

“It is better to prevent than cure.”

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

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