Search Results for: Indonesia

Indonesia gets her name from the words “Indus” (the name of India) and the Greek word “nesos,” which means, islands. The name was coined in the 18th century by James Richardson Logan who was a student of English ethnologist, George Earl and used Indonesia as a synonym for the Indian Archipelago. Indonesia is located in South East Asia. She is bound by Malaysia and the South China Sea to the northwest, Papua New Guinea to the east, the Pacific Ocean to the northeast and the Indian Ocean to the southwest.

Indonesia has been described as a gargantuan tree with many branches. She is the largest archipelago in the world. The country is made up entirely of islands, some 17,000 of them and they stretch over an area of 3,200 miles, from east to west. About 6000 of the islands are inhabited. Sumatra and Java are two of the largest Islands in the archipelago. Jakarta is the capital city, the largest city and located on the island of Java. The beautiful, tropical island of Bali is sometimes referred to as the tourist capital of Indonesia.

Indonesia is the fourth most populous nation on earth, with over 257 million people. Java holds the majority of the population, over 51 percent, and is the most populous island on earth. Indonesia is also home to the largest population of Muslims in the world, with 87 percent of the population practicing Muslim. The government only recognizes six religions, Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism, Protestantism, Catholicism and Confucianism. Every citizen must officially declare their religion whether practicing or not and two individuals that want to marry must belong to the same religion or one must convert.

Indonesia has a rich and fascinating history. Each island has its own unique, cultural background. The majority of the population is made up of Austronesian people, who originally migrated to South East Asia from Taiwan around 2000 BC. They began pushing the indigenous people to the far eastern regions. During the sixth and seventh centuries, the Srivijaya Kingdom and the Majapahit Empire were basically world powers in trade and in bringing Hindu and Buddhist influences to the area. They also brought cultural influences from India, China, and mainland Southeast Asia. These dynasties left behind several grand, religious monuments such as Buddhist Sailendra’s Borobudur and Hindu Mataram’s Prambanan, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites today. Although Islamic influences began in the eighth and ninth centuries, it wasn’t until the 13th century when Marco Polo visited Northern Sumatra, where he found already established Islamic states. Other areas of Indonesia gradually adopted Islam and it became the dominant religion by the end of the 16th century.

It was around this time that Indonesia’s abundant resources, particularly spices, began to attract the attention of the Europeans, especially the Portuguese. Spices were as good as gold, as they were believed to cure everything from the plague to many other diseases. The Portuguese were followed by the English and the Dutch. It was eventually the Dutch who won and colonized the area. The Dutch East India Company, established a spice monopoly that lasted well into the 18th century. After the dissolution of the Dutch East India Company, the Dutch began cultivating sugar and coffee on the island of Java, providing three quarters of the world’s coffee supply. It is no coincidence that java is often used as a slang term for coffee. Speaking of coffee, today the Indonesians sell the most expensive coffee drink in the world, a drink called “kopi luwak”. A cat, called the Asian palm civet, consumes coffee berries and the enzymes in the civet’s stomach removes the bitterness from the coffee berry. Well, you can use your imagination on how the berries come out of the civet. These berries are sold for about $1000 per pound.

The Indonesians were anxious for independence, which came after the Japanese occupation of Indonesia, from 1942 until the end of WWII, in 1945. The Dutch were unable to defend the colony from the Japanese, as they were under German occupation. At the end of the war and within days of the Japanese surrender, the Indonesians declared their independence. The Netherlands did not agree and a four year struggle ensued. They finally gave Indonesia their sovereignty in December of 1949. For years, Independence was still a struggle for the Indonesian people. After much strife, they finally were able to hold free elections in 1999.

Today Indonesia is a huge melting pot of over 300 ethnic groups. The official language is Bahasa Indonesia but there are several hundred other local languages, like Javanese and Papuan. Most Indonesians speak their local language, as well as the official one. Indonesia’s climate is tropical, mostly hot and humid, as many of the islands lie right along the equator. They have two seasons, a wet and dry season but the temperatures do not vary much from season to season. They mainly stay in the low to mid 80’s year round. Cooler temperatures can be found at the higher elevations.

The Indonesian archipelago is one of the most geologically evolving and diverse countries in the world. Over 150 of Indonesia’s 17,000 plus islands are active volcanoes. The, over 400, volcanic mountains that dot the islands, have a huge impact on both the Australian and Pacific tectonic plates. The islands are stretched out between the two plates and the area remains extremely active. Indonesia experiences at least one earthquake per day and three or so lesser vibrations. The Mount Tambora eruption that occurred in 1815 on the island of Sumbawa, was the largest observed volcanic eruption in history. The 2004 earthquake had a magnitude of 9.0 and created one of the world’s worst tsunamis ever. The epicenter was in Banda Aceh, Indonesia. In Indonesia alone, over 166,000 people died, over a half a million were displaced and 11 other countries were affected. On a personal note, when that tragedy occurred, I did not know much about Indonesia and I felt I needed to connect to the people and place. It was highly influential in why I started International Cuisine, to learn and understand more about the people and cultures populating our planet.

The flora and fauna of Indonesia is astounding, being the second most bio-diverse nation on earth. There are about 28,000 species of flowering plants, with 2500 orchid species, 6000 traditional, medicinal plants, 122 species of bamboo, 350 species of rattan and over 400 types of rare woods. Tropical rain forests in the region are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Along with the flora and fauna, there are animals and birds, reptiles and fish that are equally astonishing. One of the most famous reptiles, resides on one island in Indonesia, and is known as the komodo dragon. This is only place in the world where this huge creature is found. Komodo Island is another UNESCO World Heritage site.

As we look into the cuisine of this extremely diverse nation, it is easy to see the many different influences on their amazing food. The Europeans, Arabs, Indians, South East Asians and the Chinese all contributed. Being located along the spice trade and with the natural resources that abound, the combinations are endless. The foundation of any authentic Indonesian meal is rice called (nasi). Everything served with it is considered an accompaniment. Rice is grown in many areas throughout Indonesia, in the rich volcanic soil. Indonesian cuisine is a combination of flavors, usually hot, salty, sweet and sour, all at the same time, which makes Indonesian food one of the most vibrant cuisines of the world.

So let’s enjoy the flavors of Indonesia:

The Menu
Nasi Tumpeng
(Assorted dishes surround the cone shaped rice)

Bakwan Sayur (Vegetable Fritter)

Bakmi Goreng (Seafood Stir Fried Noodles)

Gado Gado (Vegetables with Peanut Sauce)

Beef Rendang (Braised Beef in Coconut Milk)

Achar (Pickled Vegetables)

Nasi Kuning (Yellow Rice)

Dessert
Dadar Gulung (Caramelized Coconut pancakes)

We set our low table with the colors of the Indonesian flag; red and white. We used banana leaves and bamboo mats to set the scene, along with orchids, coconut and candles, accented with a komodo dragon and the coat of arms. The platter, called Tumpeng, has a giant cone of rice in the middle of the platter. Tumpeng is served at many celebratory occasions. The cone represents the mountains. We sat on the floor and used only a spoon and fork, as would be customary in Indonesia. The rice was made with coconut milk and turmeric to give it a beautiful, yellow hue.

Surrounding the Nasi Kuning were many delicious dishes. We began with the Bakwan Sayur, which is basically tempura like, vegetable fritters that were served warm and crispy. We devoured them.

Next was the gado-gado. This dish is loved all over Indonesia, it literally means “mix, mix” so it can be made with any combination of vegetables (salad type ingredients, boiled, blanched and/or fresh) that you can imagine, but a few key ingredients are a must. The sweet and spicy peanut dressing is what makes this dish oh so delicious. Hardboiled egg, tempeh and potatoes are also commonly used in gado-gado. It would make a lovely light meal for any occasion.

We then enjoyed the seafood, stir fried, noodle dish called, Bakmi Goreng. This is an amazing dish full of robust flavor. The noodles are also a staple in their cuisine and one can imagine any number of uses for these delicious noodles. This dish had shrimp and squid as the seafood of choice and used a combination of hot chili sauce and sweet soy sauce, called Kecap. (Which, by the way, is how ketchup evidently got its name.) The sesame oil added a perfect essence and blended well with the mushrooms, onions and chives. The fried onions gave it a caramelized richness. Honestly, I have made this stir fry with all sorts of ingredients, multiple times, since our Indonesian meal. I am in love!

Next was the dish called beef rendang. Red meat is not eaten very often in Indonesia but reserved for special occasions. This traditional delicacy is made by slow cooking beef for hours in a rich, spiced, coconut sauce, until the beef has absorbed all the intricate flavors. It is cooked until perfectly tender and is a dish to be celebrated; simply outstanding.

All these dishes were served with a condiment/pickle called “achar”. These are vegetables, pickled with a hot and sour sauce and provide a lovely bite to accompany just about anything or even eaten all by themselves.
For dessert we savored dadar gulung. This is a caramelized coconut mixture, wrapped in a pancake, made with the flavoring of pandan leaves. It was a magical end to our Indonesian feast.

As we say goodbye to these amazing islands and flavors of Indonesia, I do so with renewed hope. Just this past week, on December 2nd, there was a terrorist attack in the United States. It happened in San Bernardino, California and the attack is believed to have been inspired by radicalized jihadists. As Indonesia has also suffered terrorist attacks by radicals, I was moved to see that the government released a film called, “Rahmat Islam Nusantara” (“The Divine Grace of East Indies Islam”.) It has been translated into English and Arabic for global distribution. In a nut shell, the film challenges and denounces the ISIS interpretation of the Quran, as factually wrong and perverse. This strong message, coming from the most enlightened form of Islam in the world and dating back more than 500 years, is highly significant. It promotes a spiritual interpretation of Islam that stresses non-violence, inclusiveness and acceptance of other religions. Amen!

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

New Year's Eve traditions around the world

It is always fascinating to learn a little something about how other places and cultures celebrate special days.  New Year’s Eve, (or Old Year’s Day) is celebrated in many parts of the world, although it has many different names.  Countries in Europe call it St. Sylvester’s Day.  Malam Tahun Baru is what it is called in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore.  It is called Hogmanay in Scotland and Reveillon or Wallonia in Brazil, and Portugal.  This special evening is held on the last day of the year of the Gregorian calendar, which is December 31^st, and rings in the New Year at midnight.

Fireworks are a common way to celebrate the New Year in many countries around the world.  Festivals and celebrations also include song, dance and of course, great food.

Here are some fun and quirky things people do around the world to say goodbye to the old year and bring in the new:

In Australia, people run out into the streets and bang on pots and pans.

In Denmark, they shatter dishes and plates against the front doors of friends and family.

In hope for good fortune, in Ecuador, giant scarecrows are made of paper and burned, along with photographs of the past year.

Speaking of South American countries, many believe that, your fate in the New Year is determined by the color of the underwear you wear that night.  If they are red, they will bring you love, wealth if they are yellow, and peace if they are white.

In Peru, there is a festival in a small village called the Takanakuy Festival, where at the end of the year people settle their differences with a fist fight, so they can start off the year without holding any grudges.

An easier way to ring in the New Year is practiced in Argentina, where at the stroke of midnight they take their first step with their right foot, thereby, “Starting the year off on the right foot.”

In Romania, people toss spare coins into the river for good luck.

Dropping ice cream on the floor is what they do in Switzerland.  (We are not sure how this tradition emerged.)

In Puerto Rico, people throw buckets of water out of their window to drive away evil spirits.

In Turkey, they smash pomegranates. The more pieces it breaks in to, the more good luck will come.

In Belgium, even the livestock get in the spirit as they are decorated and paraded around town with bells ringing.

Columbia believes that if you carry around an empty suitcase, travel will come your way in the New Year.

Many places including Bolivia, like to bake a coin into their sweets.  Whoever finds it in the treat will have good luck for the next year (and hopefully not a broken tooth.)

In Spain, they eat grapes, one for each chime of the church bell at midnight.  It is believed to bring good luck for each month of the coming year.  The grapes enjoyed along with some Cava of course.

In Finland, they cast molten tin into a bucket of water and then predict what’s in store for the coming year by the interpretation of the resulting shape.

In the Philippines, they turn on all the lights to ward off evil spirits.  They also wear polka dots, as anything round is considered to bring luck and prosperity in the New Year.

In Japan, the Buddhist temples strike the gong 108 times to expel 108 human weaknesses. The Japanese also have a tradition of eating soba noodles on New Year's Eve, the long noodles represent longevity.

In Brazil, everyone wears white to scare away bad spirits and in Chile they sleep beside their loved ones in the cemetery.

Lentils and black-eyed peas are popular in many places to welcome in a full year of work and money.  In fact in Texas, black eyed peas are called Texas caviar.

Pork in many forms is another way the New year is celebrated, pigs root their food in a forward motion, so pork represents looking forward in the New Year.  My sister makes pork and sauerkraut every New Year's day. 

Also in the United States, watching the giant crystal ball drop in Times Square (formerly called, Longacre Square) in New York City is a favorite at midnight, along with a toast of champagne, a kiss, and singing the Scottish classic called Auld Lang Syne which means, “old long ago.” According to Scotland.org, “The song is about love and kindness of days gone by, but it also gives us a sense of belonging and fellowship to take with us into the future.”

However you and your loved ones celebrate this New Year’s Eve, be safe, and why not do a little something special for good luck, travel and prosperity.

I would love to hear how you celebrate the New Year, Please do let me know in the comments below.

Happy New Year my friends!

Warmest regards,

Darlene

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Darlene

How did Singapore get its name?

Singapore is a tiny country that has had several names.  Originally it was known as Temasek, which is believed to originate from the Malay word for “Sea town” or a piece of land surrounded by water.

Later the country was renamed Singapura, which is a Sanskrit word for “The Lion City.”  It was a Sumatran Prince who named it this, because he thought he saw a lion when he landed on the island.  However, there have never been lions on Singapore, only tigers. 

Although the names were used interchangeably from the 13^th to the 15^th centuries, when Portuguese traders arrived in the 16^th century, Temasek was no longer used and Singapura remained.

Singapore is also known as “The Little Red Dot”, a term coined by Indonesian President Habibie who referenced the country’s appearance on a map, where it always showed up as a red dot.  Singaporeans do not like this term as it serves as a reminder that their small size makes them vulnerable.

Where is Singapore Located?

Singapore is an island city-state, one of only three city-states in the world; the others are Monaco and Vatican City.  It is located at the end of the Malayan Peninsula, between Malaysia and Indonesia.  It has no land borders and has a total land area of only 278 square miles.  However, Singapore is not just one island.  It has 62 small, outlying islands, nearly all uninhabited.  The mainland of Singapore measures 31 miles from east to west and 17 miles from north to south, with 120 miles of coastline.

Singapore is separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor and from Indonesia by the Singapore Strait.  Singapore is one of the few nations that is growing in size, as it reclaims land with earth obtained from its own hills, the seabed and sand from neighboring countries.  It is expected to grow by another 62 miles by the year 2033.

Despite its small size this country packs a large punch on the global scale.  It is one of the richest countries by GDP, the cleanest, the most honest and yet heavily urbanized.

A Brief History of Singapore

It is believed that the history of Singapore may date back as far as the third century.  It became a significant trading settlement by the 14^th century.  In 1819, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles negotiated a treaty to allow the British to locate a trading port on the islands.  This led to the establishment of The British Colony of Singapore in 1819.  During the subsequent decades, Singapore grew to become an important port in the region.  It was set up as a free port, which was a great advantage to the other nearby ports of Manila and Jakarta who levied tariffs on trade.  It allowed the introduction of the Chinese market, which greatly reduced the time and cost of shipping goods to Europe, after the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. 

By 1880 over 1.5 million tons of goods passed through Singapore each year.  The Chinese, mostly Peranakans, who were descendants of early Chinese settlers, became the largest ethnic group in Singapore.  Malays were the second largest ethnic group but they were eventually outpaced by Indians as the second largest group. The Indians were brought in to carry out public works projects.  Despite its growth, Singapore was mismanaged with a predominantly male, transient and uneducated society.  Prostitution, gambling and drug abuse (mainly opium) were widespread.

During World War II, the Japanese occupied Singapore.  The fall of Singapore was the largest surrender of British-led forces in history.  Singapore was renamed by the Japanese to “Syonan,” which means “Bright Southern Island”  and was under their control from 1942-1945.  However, this three year period was not at all bright, but rather a very dark time in Singapore’s history. 

After the Japanese surrendered to Allied forces, the British returned to Singapore.  The failure of Britain to defend Singapore had destroyed their credibility in the eyes of the Singaporeans.  This led to the beginning of self-governance.  After many trials and tribulations and alliances, Singapore gained Independence on the morning of August 9, 1965, after the Parliament of Malaysia voted 126-0 to expel Singapore from the short lived federation. 

Singapore wasted no time to seek international support and recognition of its sovereignty.  The new state joined the United Nations on September 21, 1965.  Although Singapore is a top country in many categories, it is rated one of the worst for freedom of the press and not so great on the level of democracy.  Generally speaking, Singaporeans have imposed the “surveillance” of its citizens to protect them. Today, Singapore’s economy is one of the best in the world.  The current president of Singapore is a woman, Madam Halimah Yacob.

Singapore’s Culture

One of the most beautiful things about Singapore is the way in which so many diverse people with varying religious beliefs, live in harmony.  This can be attributed to Singaporeans’ learning early on, the religious customs and traditions of each others religions.  They celebrate each other’s holidays as public holidays including Christian, Muslim, and Indian holidays, to name a few.  I happened to visit Singapore during the Chinese New Year, which was celebrated in large pagentry by all.  The state is home to ten major religions including: Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Hinduism and Christianity. 

There are four official languages; English, Tamil, Malay and Mandarin Chinese.  Despite this, most people speak what is known as Singlish, another reflection of Singapore’s diversity.  It is a Creole language made up of local slang and expressions from the various official languages.  You will hear it spoken right away when visiting there.

Despite Singapore’s fast paced and rapid growth, it remains a very conservative and religious society.  Here are a few things you should know about how to stay out of trouble when visiting Singapore.  Respecting elders is of the utmost importance and you should never call someone older than you by their name.  They  should be called Auntie or Uncle or Grandmother etc.  Homosexuality is still illegal there.  Smoking in a non-smoking area is strictly enforced.  Don’t even think about trafficking drugs, it is punishable by death.  Littering or vandalism can result in hefty fines including  caning, and public shaming.  Chewing gum is against the law, as is not flushing a toilet after using it.  Perhaps it is these laws and punishments that make it one of the cleanest cities in the world, with one of the lowest crime rates.

Singapore has become a major tourist destination with several famous landmarks.  One of the newest is the Jewel Changi Airport, which opened in April 2019 and has a nature-themed entertainment and retail complex adjacent to the number one rated airport in the world.  The Marina Sands Hotel is one of the most Instagram-able hotels in the world; famous for its boat shaped infinity pool that overlooks all of Singapore. Another landmark is a giant observation Ferris wheel known as the Singapore flyer, that held the record as the largest from 2008 to 2014.  They have the second largest Aquarium in the world, which is part of the Adventure Cove Park.  A botanical garden, that is a UNESCO world heritage site, houses their beloved orchids, which are also a symbol of Singapore.

Aside from new attractions you will also find older establishments such as: the old Buddhist and Hindu temples, shop houses, mosques and areas like Little India, Haji Street and Chinatown.

Singapore Cuisine

Singapore imports nearly all of their food, as they only have 6% arable space.  They do try to grow what they can and recently put an emphasis on building vertical and growing roof top gardens.  Being a wealthy metropolitan city-state, you can find just about any type of food in Singapore.  I would argue the best can be found in what are known as hawker centers.  These are food stalls where you will find inexpensive but authentic cuisine of the people.  These food centers dot the country.  There is one food center that boasts a Michelin star which serves their famous chicken rice for only $1.42 per serving.  A few of Singapore’s favorite dishes are: chili crab, a spicy and delicious treat, laksa, a thick noodle dish often served with prawns and fish cakes, and a pulled tea, called Teh terik, made with black tea and condensed milk.  Make no mistake, you can find authentic Chinese, Malaysian, Indian and Indonesian food all over Singapore.  You can also enjoy a traditional Peranakan meal by the famous Violet Oon, who is hailed as the Julia Childs of Singapore.  She has been the food ambassador of Singapore since 1988.  Also a trip to Singapore would not be complete without a stop at the famous Raffles Hotel, where the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented and is still served with warm peanuts.  Culinary excellence is an integral part of the culture of Singapore.

So let’s enjoy a Singapore meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Singaporean Chili Crab

Main Course

Hainanese Chicken Rice with Sauces

Dessert

Pandan Chiffon Cake

We set the scene with orchids, as that is their national flower, along with a candle, decorated with the merlion, (the official mascot of Singapore, a mythical creature with a lion’s head and the body of a fish.) The colors used in our décor were red and white, to represent their flag.  A crab shell and other seashells were placed to represent the island’s seaside.  We also added symbols of the different religious faiths represented there.  Finally, a little F1 race car was placed, as Singaporeans were the first to introduce a night time Formula one race in the series.

We sat down with our Singapore Slings and said  “yumseng”, which is how you say “cheers” in Singlish.  Our first course was the amazing chili crab.  I had the privilege of eating this dish while in Singapore at the famous Jumbo’s restaurant.  I can attest that this recipe is just as wonderful.  It is spicy, rich and simply sensational.  It was served with steamed buns, as is customary there.  This could typically be a meal unto itself but I felt like it had to be only part of the IC menu.

For the main course, we savored the national dish called Hainanese chicken rice.  This dish can be found in all the hawker centers and is a true specialty of Singapore.  It is unique way to cook chicken, by poaching it.  The result is excellent, especially when served alongside seasoned rice.  The sauces that accompany the chicken and rice are what makes it truly extraordinary;  a chili sauce and another sauce made of ginger and spring onion oil, as well as a dressing, made with sesame oil, soy sauce and the poaching liquid.  Per their tradition, cucumber and tomato was served alongside the main dish.

For dessert, we enjoyed the pandan chiffon cake.  Pandan is a leaf, also known as screwpine, which is a very common ingredient in Singapore and Southeast Asian cooking.  It adds a nutty flavor and scent, as well as a bright green color.  This cake was light, fluffy, but not too sweet.  Delicious.

As we say goodbye to this intriguing little country of Singapore, I leave you with a few Singaporean proverbs:

Where there is a sea, there are pirates.

A given excuse that was not asked for implies guilt.

Never take a quiet person for granted.  He might have great qualities underneath his quiet nature.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How the Philippines Got Their Name?

In 1543,  the Spanish explorer Rudy Lopez de Villalobos, gave the islands the name “Felipinas,” in honor of the Crown Prince Felipe (Phillip), who later became King Phillip II of Spain.  Prior to this, Magellan named them “Archipelagoof St. Lazarus” but that name never caught on.  The Chinese called them “Ma-yi”, which meant, “Land of Gold” because they bought gold in Mindoro.  A Greek map maker called the islands, “Minolos”, on an ancient map.  The Americans called them the “Philippine Islands” and then, upon independence in 1946, they became officially known as “The Republic of the Philippines.”

Where are the Philippines Located?

The Philippines is an archipelago of islands located in the western Pacific Ocean.  She sits on the eastern Asian border between the Philippine Sea and South China Sea.  Her neighbors are Taiwan and China to the north, Vietnam to the west and Indonesia to the south.  It is made up of 7,641 islands that have three main geographical divisions, from north to south, Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao.  The capital city is Manila but the most populous city is Quezon City.  Both cities are part of Metro Manila.  Metro Manila is the considered to be the most densely populated area of the world, with 55,446 people per square mile.  Every ten years the Philippines experiences a large magnitude earthquake and in 1991, Mt. Pinatubo erupted, creating the largest mushroom cloud the world has seen.  Its eruption ejected ten billion metric tons of magma and 20 million tons of sulfur dioxides into the stratosphere.

A Brief History of the Philippines

Today the Philippines is an archipelago but it is believed that during the Ice Age, they were connected to mainland Asia by a land bridge, allowing humans to walk from there to Asia. The earliest people were hunter-gatherers.  Somewhere between 3000 and 2000 BC, people learned to farm.  They grew rice and had domesticated animals.  They traded with China from the 10^th century on, and by the 12^th century, Arab merchants arrived and introduced Islam.  In 1521 Magellan discovered the Philippines and claimed them for Spain.  The conquistadors and friars converted the Filipinos to Catholicism.  They built schools and universities and created a feudal system.  In 1762 the British captured the Philippines for a brief two year period.

In the 19^th century a nationalist feeling was starting to grow, influenced by a writer named Jose Rizal (a national hero).  In 1898 a war broke out between the USA and Spain.  The Americans defeated the Spanish fleet in Manila Bay.  Despite trying to become independent, the Philippines were handed over to the Americans as part of a peace treaty.  Another war broke out between the Filipinos and American forces in 1899 and lasted until 1902 when the Filipino leader Aguinaldo was captured. The USA wanted to Americanize the Philippines but never quite succeeded.  The USA promised the Philippines their full independence by 1945.

In 1941 Japanese troops invaded the islands and by May of 1942, the Philippines were entirely in the hands of the Japanese.  In October 1944 American troops returned to the Philippines and recaptured Manila in February 1945.  The Philippines became independent on July 4, 1946.  Manual Roxas was the first President. In 1965, Ferdinand Marcos was elected president and was reelected in 1969 however, extreme poverty and inequality created a Communist insurgency in the countryside.  Marcos declared martial law in 1972 and his dictatorship was exceedingly corrupt.  He was forced into exile in the late 1980s.  You may recall the discovery of thousands of pairs of shoes that his wife Imelda, left behind when they fled to Hawaii. Today there is museum housing over 800 pairs of her shoes.  After Ferdinand’s death, Imelda returned to make two unsuccessful bids for the presidency.

Today the Philippines is still poor but things are getting much better. They have a population of 103 million people and a growing economy.

Filipino Culture

There are an estimated 175 languages spoken in the Philippines.  Most of them are classified as Malayo-Polynesian.  Among them there are 13 indigenous languages, spoken by nearly one million people.  Today the official languages are Filipino, (also known as Tagalog) and English.  Spanish was spoken by 60% of the population in the early 20^th century.  The Philippines has a fusion culture where east meets west.  Despite the western influences, the old Asian culture of Filipinos has been retained and is clearly displayed in their daily lives.  It unfolds in their music, dance and literature.  Their culture embodies what is known as “bahala na”, a general sense of “whatever will be, will be.”  Christianity is very important and practiced by about 80 percent of the population, while Islam is the religion of about 11 percent.  Christmas is one the most loved celebrations of the Filipinos.  Families and friends gather on the 24^th of December for “Noche Buena”, a Spanish term which means “Midnight Meal” to welcome in Christmas Day.  New Years is another much loved holiday when they wear dotted clothes and prepare round fruits on the table to symbolize prosperity.  Their annual calendar is filled with festivals, many of which include costumes and rituals from the nation’s pre-colonial past.

Filipinos love sports and enjoy watching and playing games like basketball and American football, as well as boxing.  There national sport is called arnis, a form of marital arts.  The basic social unit of the country is family.  The family unit includes aunts, uncles, grandparents, cousins and other outside relations, such as god parents and close friends.  This results in massive gatherings, filled with music, singing, food and laughter.  The Filipinos are known throughout the world to be a friendly, happy and a fun group of people.  They are also amazing caretakers.  Many have trained to become nurses and have moved to the USA to send money home to their families.  They are known as “Overseas Filipinos”, with over three million in the USA and over a million in Saudi Arabia.

They love to shop and the Philippines is home to three of the world’s largest malls.  The mall is also a good place to escape the heat and humidity of their tropical climate.  The Philippines has a diverse climate but suffers from torrential rains during the Monsoon Season, which can also bring about deadly typhoons.

Why Visit the Philippines?

The first reason to visit the Philippines would be to enjoy the Filipino people, known to be some of the friendliest in the world.  Second, would be the stunning beauty of their over 7000 islands; immaculate white sandy beaches and pristine turquoise waters.  Every conceivable water sport is practiced in the Philippines.  The Tubbataha Reefs are a UNESCO world heritage site and some say it is the best diving site in the world.  There is an underground river in Puerto Princesa, Palawan, where you can take an hour long paddleboat tour through the cave and see one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  On the island of Bohol you will find the 1260 hills that look like chocolates and may also see tarsiers, one of the cutest and smallest monkeys in the world.  Siargao Island is known as the surfing capital of the Philippines.  In Sagada, a mountain province, you can find hanging coffins in Echo Valley, where the locals believe the dead should be placed in steep crevices so they can be closer to the gods as they journey to the afterlife.  The Batad Rice Terraces are a site to behold but getting to them is not all that easy.  The rice terraces are also a UNESCO site.  Vigan, on Llocos Sur, is a whole town (and another UNESCO site) known for an exceptionally well-preserved 16^th century trading town.  The list of incredible destinations goes on and on, but I did I mention the food?

Filipino Cuisine

Filipino food is often referred to as the original fusion cuisine.  Hints of Spanish, Western, Chinese, Japanese and Pacific Islander flavors, are all a testament to its rich cultural heritage.  But it should be noted that they have flavors all of their own, that are quickly becoming world renown.  They are specifically known for the acids and sweetness that many of their dishes impart.  Adobo, for example, means “marinade” and whether it is for chicken or pork, it is considered the national dish.  The meat is drenched in a mixture of soy and vinegar and just might be the best you have ever tasted.  Pork is the meat of choice in the Philippines, with dishes like the famous lechon that is famous for the crunchy exterior of a whole, spit roasted pig, dipped in lechon sauce which consists of vinegar, sugar and a touch of liver.  Even the late, cuisine adventurer, Anthony Bourdain, considered it the best he had ever tasted.  Also the delicious pork longganisa, is a sausage made with ground pork.  Lumpia is a spring roll and ubiquitous there as an appetizer or snack.  They are served fried or fresh and stuffed with vegetables and sometimes minced meats that will make your palate sing.

Fresh seafood is abundant there, as are tropical fruits of every variety. The Philippines are the largest exporters of coconuts, papayas and mangosteen.  Bangus is considered to be the national fish, also known as milkfish.   Mango salads are topped with tart calamansi juice, similar to a lime or lemon.  Mangoes are the national fruit and are known to be the sweetest, most delicious, mangoes in the world.  Bagoong is a fermented fish sauce that imparts its umami flavor to many dishes and is native to the Philippines.  Sinigang is a delicate soup that is made with fish, seafood or meats, cooked in a sour tamarind broth, with fresh greens.   Ube is a purple yam and is officially a craze on social media platforms with its health benefits and beautiful lavender color.  Ube is often used to make ice cream and for their beloved halo-halo dessert but is also enjoyed boiled and baked.  One of the most interesting and traditional dishes is balut, which is a boiled, fertilized duck egg with a half-formed chick inside.  It is believed to be an aphrodisiac.  Needless to say there are so many delicious and unique choices to try and enjoy in the beautiful Philippines.

So let’s enjoy a Filipino meal:

The Meal

Starter

Lumpiang Ubod  ( Fresh Spring Roll)

Main Course

Adobong Manok (Chicken Adobo)

Pancit Bihon (Rice Noodle with Pork)

Dessert

Ube Ice Cream (Purple Yam Ice Cream)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag: red, white and blue.  We placed mangoes on our table and a picture of a Philippine, an eagle with the same name (Their national symbol and the largest eagle in the world.)  A string of pearls was added, as it is the national gem and where the largest pearl ever was discovered, weighing a whopping 14 lbs.   Palm fronds were used, as Anahaw leaves are used as a roofing material on the humble abodes called, bahay kubo or nipa huts, that still dot the rural country sides.  A yo-yo was included because it was invented by a Filipino and means “comeback” in the Llocono language.  Lastly, white flowers topped off the décor, representing the national flower, called Sampaguita, also known as the Arabian Jasmine. Its aroma is simply intoxicating.

We began with the famous lumpia (spring roll) and I chose the fresh variety.  We absolutely adored this appetizer.  It was made with a light egg crepe and then filled with shrimp, pork and ubod (hearts of palm.)  It was topped with a peanut sauce and the result was delicious.

For the main course, which was served family style, we had the famous adobo.  It was truly the best chicken I have ever had.  It was served with rice, which is typically served with every meal in the Philippines.  We also enjoyed another beloved dish called pancit bihon.  Pancit means “noodle” and was introduced by the Chinese.  This rice noodle dish was stir fried with pork and vegetables.  It was flavored with soy and fermented fish sauce.  This is a quick and easy dish that I plan to make often.

For dessert, I just had to make something with that purple yam, called ube.  I made a scrumptious ice cream that was as tasty as it was beautiful.

After dinner we set up our karaoke machine and sang while enjoying a San Miguel beer which began their operations in the Philippines in 1890.  Karaoke is considered the national pastime of Filipinos.

I am blessed to have Filipinos as extended family and relish every opportunity to indulge in their exquisite cuisine and family gatherings.

Until next time,

Paalam (Goodbye or Farewell in Tagalog)

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Papua New Guinea get its Name?

Papua is the original name of the island, which is the second largest island in the world, after Greenland.  It is believed that the word Papua means “frizzy hair,” which was used to describe the Melanesians that resided there. Later, when the Spanish arrived, it was called New Guinea because of the similarity in the look of the local population, with those the explorer had encountered off the coast of Guinea in Africa; Hence the name, Papua New Guinea.

Where is Papua New Guinea Located?

Papua New Guinea is an Oceanian country and occupies the eastern half of the Island of New Guinea.  It lies just north of Australia.  It shares the island with Indonesia, who occupies the western half of the island, known as the Province of West Papua or (Irian Jaya). To the north and east are the islands of Manus, New Britain, New Ireland and Bougainville.  All of these islands are part of Papua New Guinea.

A Brief History of Papua New Guinea

Prehistory of Papua New Guinea dates back some 60,000 years when descendants from Africa first migrated toward the Australian continent.  The first known Europeans to sight New Guinea, were most likely Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the early part of the 16^th century.  Europeans explored the coastlines and found artifacts that included: bone, wood and stone tools, as well as a productive agricultural system.  It was 1870, when the Russian anthropologist, Nicholai Miklukho-Makai, made a number of expeditions to New Guinea and documented his several years of living among native tribes.

The British and Germans held parts of the island until 1902, when it was placed under the authority of the Commonwealth of Australia.  Shortly after the Pacific War began, in 1941, the island was invaded by the Japanese.  Brutal attacks occurred.  It was an area of a major military campaign, where 200,000 Japanese military men lost their lives along with 14,000 Australian and American service personnel.  Following the war, Papua New Guinea was placed under the International Trusteeship System.  They gained their independence on September 16, 1975 and shortly thereafter, joined the United Nations.

As with most newly independent nations, Papua New Guinea has had numerous challenges and fights between rebels, natives and government.  Numerous Chinese have immigrated to Papua New Guinea and racial tensions over the Chinese merchants have led to multiple riots.  However, the on-going fights with refugees are primarily over the borders of West Papua (occupied by Indonesia) and Papuan New Guinea.  Indonesia engaged in a 50-year genocide against West Papuan natives, in which nearly 25% of the population was killed.  Because Papua New Guinea supported Indonesia, this caused a massive backlash from its Oceania neighbors against Papua New Guinea.  To ease tensions, Papua New Guinea allowed 138 West Papuan refugees to gain citizenship.  In 2017, the West Papua natives’ offered a bid for independence from Indonesia but it was rejected.  In March and April of 2018, Papua New Guinea suffered a chain of earthquakes which caused serious damage.  The other Oceania nations came to Papua New Guinea’s aid, nonetheless.

Papua New Guinea Culture

Home to nearly 7 million people, more than 1/3 of the population, lives in the rugged Highlands.  Papua New Guinea is one of the last places on earth where tribes live and where traditional subsistence cultures thrive.  The island is filled with an estimated, 7000 different cultural groups.  Some also exist, that may have never been identified.  They practice elaborate rituals of death, marriage, feasts and complex initiation rites.  It is also estimated that there are more than  800 local languages.  Pidgin (Tok Pisin,) along with English, Hiri Motu and Papua New Guinean sign language, are the official languages.  It is said to be the most linguistically diverse place on earth.  A large majority (96%) of Papua New Guineans, identify as being members of the Christian faith. The remainder are traditional animist, follow indigenous beliefs or have other practices.

Until quite recently, Papua New Guinea was well known for its practice of cannibalism.  The Korowai tribe is one of the last known tribes to practice cannibalism.  The first recorded case of Westerners meeting this tribe was in 1974. The tribe never even realized that anyone else existed outside their village.  Their belief in evil spirits made it necessary to kill and eat a person that they thought had been taken over by the demon, Khakua.

Why Visit Papua New Guinea?

Let’s just say it is not for the everyday tourist.  The Australian government warns of an array of problems: landslides, car-jackings, gang-violence, venomous snakes, and civil unrest, to name a few.  It has a very little infrastructure.  Perhaps its remoteness and the fact that is generally not a tourist destination, is why you may just choose to visit there.  It is one of the few places left where you can see how tribes live a traditional life style.

The pristine rainforests are home to many rare species of birds and insects.  The beautiful Bird of Paradise is the national bird and 38, of the known 43 species of this bird, are found there.  The Bird of paradise creates stunningly colorful courtship dances with the microscopic mirrors in their feathers.  The sighting of the rare blue and Raggiana varieties, entice birdwatchers from around the world.  Orchids abound, with more than 3000 species that are unique to the country. The national botanical garden, in the capital city of Port Moresby, has the largest collection of orchids in the southern hemisphere.  Papua New Guinea is home to the largest pigeon, the smallest parrot, the longest lizard, the largest butterfly and the tallest Araucaria tree, (which grows up to 70 meters in height,) along with the tallest tropical trees, on the planet.  It is truly one of the most biodiverse countries in the world.  It is renown for its incredibly pristine diving opportunities.  If you were to visit, you definitely should use a well-known tour operator.  It is not a place that you would just show up and try to find a hotel.  Most of the travel to Papua New Guinea is via Australia.

Papua New Guinea Food

As we look into the food of Papua New Guinea, it is based on subsistence farming.  Root vegetables are king.  Sweet potatoes, called kaukau, were introduced about 300 years ago and are a staple ingredient, as is: cassava, yams and taro root.  Sago is also very popular, along with several greens, many of which are the leaves of the root vegetables.   Pork is the meat of choice and often cooked for feasts.  Seafood is available from the rivers and coastal areas.  Chickens are raised in villages and provide them with protein and rice is also a strong part of their diet.  Local fruits are plentiful, such as: pineapples, pawpaws, mangoes, bananas and passion fruit.  Coconut in all forms is ubiquitous there.

Interestingly, there is a tribe in Papua New Guinea that was talked about quite extensively in a new diet and healthy living book called, The Plant Paradox, by Dr. Steven Gundry.  The tribe, called the Kitavans, who live on a remote island in Papua New Guinea, are one of the longest living people on the planet and seem to never suffer from heart attacks or strokes, despite their heavy smoking and other indulgences.

I highly recommend the book.  As it turns out, what we believe to be healthy eating, isn’t what we think it is.  Foods have been genetically modified and our intestinal flora compromised by them.  I found this book so compelling when I read it, that I have embarked on this diet myself and will note for you, The Plant Paradox, friendly recipes, as we continue on our Journey. If you are interested in the book you can pick up a copy here.

So let’s enjoy a typical Papua New Guinea Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Kokoda Fish (Ceviche in Coconut Cream)

Main Course

Mumu (Pork, Chicken, Greens and Root Vegetables)

Dessert

Saksak (Sago and Banana Steamed Dumpling)

We set the table with a straw mat and decorated with orchids, (which, by the way, the Sepik Blue Orchid, is their national flower.)  We placed a sweet potato, mango and coconut, to represent the typical, tropical cuisine.  We also added a wood carving, as many tribes are famous for this craft.  Pottery and shells completed the décor.  They have been traded, throughout their history, for goods, in return.

We began by saying, Hamamas, which means, Bon Appetit, in Tok Pisin.  Our first course was called Kokoda fish and it was outstanding.  Ceviche style fish is one of my favorite foods and this recipe was quick and easy to make.  The fish first needs to “cook” in the lemon juice.  It is then combined with tomatoes, cucumbers and hard-boiled egg.  It is topped with coconut cream and garlic.  Delicious!

Our main course, considered to be the national dish of Papua New Guinea, is called, mumu. It is typically cooked in a pit, steamed in banana leaves and is really a “one pot” meal.  It is made with greens, pork, chicken, taro, cassava and sweet potatoes, plus pineapple and coconut milk.  It was a lovely dish.  The combination of pork and pineapple and coupled with the creaminess of the coconut milk, was excellent.

For dessert, we had a sago pearl and banana, jelly-like, sweet dumpling, called, saksak.  It was similar in texture to  tapioca pudding.  This dessert, steamed in a banana leaf, was served drenched in warm coconut milk.  It was a perfect tropical dessert to complete our Papua New Guinea meal.

After dinner, we watched a documentary on Papua New Guinea by National Geographic.  It is such a remote island and an intriguing place, with stunning ocean waters, landscapes and intriguing people.  We would love to put Papua New Guinea on our future travel itinerary, despite the travel warnings.  How about you?

Until next time,

Tenkyu tumas (thank you)

Darlene

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How did Palau get its name?

The name Palau comes from the Palauan language.  Belau, is the word for village, as is beluu or aibebalau, which relates to a creation myth. The name in the English language took a journey from the islands’ heritage.  The Spanish called it Los Palaos and then the Germans named it Palau.  Today, the official name is the Republic of Palau.

Where is Palau located?

Palau officially became a sovereign state on October 1, 1994.  Palau is made up more than 200 volcanic and coral islands, many of them surrounded by a single barrier reef in the western Pacific.  It is part of the larger island group of Micronesia and shares its maritime boundaries with Indonesia, the Philippines and the Federated States of Micronesia.

A Brief History of Palau

The first inhabitants of Palau date back to 2500 BC where they are believed to have come from present day eastern Indonesia.  They perfected their fishing, farming and developed complex social systems.

Captain Henry Wilson from England, became the first westerner to visit the islands when his vessel shipwrecked off shore in 1783.  In 1885, the Spanish asserted claims to the islands but that was short lived as the Spanish sold the islands to Germany in 1899.  The Germans did much to exploit the islands’ natural resources.  Phosphate mining began and coconut plantations popped up everywhere and cultivated for export.

When the Germans were defeated after World War I, the Japanese took over the islands.  Their reign only lasted until they lost the war in World War II.  A fierce battle between the US and Japan took its toll on the islands of Palau.  Many ship wrecks resulted, which are now dive sites, as well as too many lives lost, on both sides.  In 1947, Palau became a United Nations Trust Territory under the US administration until their Independence in 1994, as did several other Pacific nations.  Today they are independent under the Compact of Free Association with the US.  The US is responsible for their defense and financial aid and the US has the right to operate military bases on the islands.  The US dollar is the official currency of Palau and English is the official language, along with Palauan.

Palauan Culture

Despite all these outsider influences on the islands, monoliths and other relics are reminders of ancient culture and traditions that once thrived on the islands.  Today, Palauans hold strong to their heritage.  Although there are over 200 islands, only a few are inhabited.  The Koror Island is the hub where 2/3rds of the 21,000 inhabitants call home. The ethnic makeup of the islands is a mix of Micronesian, Melanesian, Asian and Western elements.  Koror is the main city and the economic hub and was also the former capital.  However, in 2006 the capital was moved to Ngerulmud, which is located on the nearby island of Babelbaob.  The other two satellite islands are Malakai and Ngerkebesang.  Tourism is the main economic driver for Palau.  Subsistence farming and fishing are also contributors to their economy.

The government is by far the largest employer on the islands.  A traditional government operates in conjunction with the federal government which sometimes creates conflicts, mainly over land rights.  Traditional matrilineal practices remain prevalent in nearly every aspect of Palauan life.  This is especially seen in funerals, marriages, inheritance and the passing of traditional titles.  One of Palau’s most important cultural symbols is the bai.  This is an impressive thatched, gable-style building that is the center of political and social life.  The beams are decorated with carvings that depict the life and the histories of the villages.  Today replicas called storyboards are sold to tourists as wonderful mementos of the islands.  Shell jewelry, watercolors and weavings are also popular tourist items.  Traditional dance, especially by women formed in two lines, is considered an art form. The men’s typical line dance includes war stances using sticks.

Why you should visit Palau

Palau is home to the most pristine waters in the world.  Most people go there to dive or snorkel and enjoy the breathtaking, white sand beaches that dot the islands’ coastlines.  Palau was the first country in the world to establish a shark sanctuary, in 2009.  They are also home to a lake called Jellyfish Lake.  It is located on the island of Eil Malk which is part of the uninhabited Rock Islands in Palau’s southern lagoon.  The Rock Islands’ southern lagoon was listed into the UNESCO world heritage sites in 2012.  The unique Rock Islands are rounded knobs of forest-capped limestone that plunges steeply into the sea.  Jellyfish Lake is connected to the ocean through fissures and tunnels in the limestone of an ancient Miocene reef.  It is a place where you used to be able to snorkel with the golden-colored jellyfish, that don’t sting. The lake is currently closed to visitors as the jellyfish were beginning to decline due to environmental issues.  They hope to be able to reopen it when the jellyfish are replenished.

Another popular area is called the Milky Way, also located in the lagoon, amongst the Rock Islands  This area is known for its white, limestone mud found on the water floor.  It is believed that it will make you look ten years younger if you lather it all over your face and body, let it dry and then rinse it off with a swim in the lagoon.

Palau’s economic growth is tied to its conservation legacy.  Its marine sanctuary ensures a vibrant future for the nation’s marine life and for its economy for years to come.  That is, as long as climate change doesn’t take its toll on the islands.  The President of Palau has to look no further than his own backyard.  When there is a full moon, due to rising sea levels, the garden his wife used to keep at the back of their house gets flooded with salt water by the high tide.  “We no longer have flowers.  We had to put them in a pot and when there is a high tide, we move them.”  According to data from the United Nation, low-lying, small islands in the Pacific are disproportionately at risk of losing land as sea levels are expected to rise by 10-32 inches by the late 21^st century.  Palau has begun looking for alternatives to relocate its population to higher ground, before it’s too late.

Food of Palau

As we look into the cuisine of Palau, it comprises what they are able to grow and catch in the surrounding Pacific Ocean.  Root vegetables like taro, pumpkin, and yams are prevalent.  Pandan, with its unique aroma  and sweetness is widely used in cooking and desserts.  Colorful, exotic fruits are plentiful, such as: dragonfruit, mango, passionfruit, breadfruit, the very healthful soursop and the queen of fruits, the rambutan.  Of course, coconut is abundant and used for flavoring everything from fish to soups.  Rice is commonly served at mealtime.  An interesting island tradition there, is that women are the only ones allowed to harvest taro.

One unique dish you will find in Palau is fruitbat soup where the fruit bat wings and head are cooked in a broth of coconut.  Fish from the sea are cooked in all different ways and also eaten raw.  The cuisine has influences from America, Japan, the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and other Pacific Islands.  A few specialties are: Tinola, a soup made with chicken, papaya and ginger, Ulkoy, a deep fried shrimp and squash fritter and Pichi-Pichi, a dessert made with coconut and cassava.

So let’s enjoy a few more Palauan specialties:

The Menu

Starter

Tuna Poke Salad

Main Dish

Grilled Snapper; Palauan Style

Dessert

Halo-Halo (Shaved Ice with Milk, Fruit and Beans)

We set the scene with plumeria. the fragrant national flower of Palau.  We decorated with a shark figurine and sea shells, representing the shark sanctuary and the stunning marine life.  A baseball glove represented baseball as the national sport, which was brought to the islands by Japan in the 1920s.  Lastly, we added tropical fruit and a grass cloth covering, along with tapa rounds to complete the island feel.

We began our meal with a tuna poke salad.  Tuna is abundant in the waters of Palau and I absolutely love raw tuna.  This dish is inspired from the Hawaii Islands in the USA.   It is an absolutely delicious salad and is very versatile.  It has avocado, tomatoes, cucumbers, shallot, scallions and pea sprouts, with diced up, sashimi grade, tuna.  It is dressed with sesame oil, light soy sauce, lime, a hint of chili powder and black sesame seeds.  Heaven in a bowl.

For the main course we made a whole snapper.  It was grilled in a banana leaf and stuffed with kaffir lime leaf, garlic and ginger.  It was covered in a mixture of dark, mushroom-flavored soy sauce and sesame oil.  The fish was grilled for about 15 minutes (until tender and flaky.)  We served the fish whole, with white, steamed rice, flavored with the same mushroom, soy sauce and sesame oil.  The result was a quick, easy and sumptuous main dish that makes you feel like you are on a tropical island.  We loved it!

For dessert we enjoyed Halo-halo (pronounced hollow-hollow).  It is perfect for a hot, summer, tropical day.  It is a simple bowl of shaved ice that is covered with a bit of sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.  It is then topped with nata de coco, which is a jelly-like square that comes in different colors and flavors.  It also has some sweet red, mung beans and jackfruit .  It is finished with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  Halo-halo was a welcomed, cool and refreshing dessert to end our Palauan meal.  All in all we said “Ng ungil a chasi er ngii”  which means “It tastes good!”

After dinner we decided to treat ourselves to a mud spa.  Although I could not get the Milky Way mud, I did find a spa mud, in hopes of looking ten years younger.  If it doesn’t do the trick, a trip to Palau is in order.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful, tropical paradise, called Palau,  I leave you with a Palauan proverb.  “A ungil el merreder a ua chull el melemedem er a daob” Translated it means, “A good leader is like rain that calms the ocean.”

Until next time,

Thank you, (Ke kmal mesaul) Pronounced Kuk-MAHL-ma-SAHL

Darlene

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The week I want to share a few favorite dishes, perfect for the fall weather.  I also have some exciting news.  My husband and I will be embarking on a four month journey beginning December 1st.  This is a life-long dream of ours to travel the world.  I truly hope you will follow along on our journey.

We will be heading to Southeast Asia and the first country we will be exploring is Cambodia.  This Cambodian soup, made with pork and shrimp and those amazing, glass noodles, is a big reason why this country is a must see and taste for us.  Once you make it you will understand why.  It is amazing!

Kuy Teav (Pork and seafood noodle soup)

India will also be on our journey.  We can't wait to explore this country and plan on eating lots of Chicken Butter Masala, as well as many other delectable Indian dishes. As it happens, we will be there during the Holi Festival of Colors, something I have always wanted to see and experience firsthand.

Chicken Butter Masala (Murgh Mahani)

Laos is another stop on our trip.  We hope to see the monks receiving their alms at the cultural center of Luang Prabang.  You can look forward to new, authentic recipes from this spectacular country.

Khao Poon (Coconut Noodle soup)

Nepal is our next country. This lentil soup would be perfect to sustain you while trekking in the Himalayas, or adding comfort and warmth to any cool, fall evening.  We will not be scaling Mt. Everest but we will certainly be warmed by this staple soup, called Dal Bhat.

Dal Bhat (Red Lentils and Rice)

There has been plenty of negative press about Myanmar of late.  We added Myanmar to our itinerary and although we have mixed feelings about going there, we ultimately decided to include it.  As you know International Cuisine shares the traditions and cultures of world counrties but also includes their struggles as well.  Hopefully on our visit, we will experience more of the positive aspects. In any case, we know the food will not disappoint. This dish, called Mohinga, is a favorite!

Mohinga (Fish Base Soup with Rice Noodles)

Malaysia, our next destination, will be so exciting. We will be heading to Penang for their authentic Nyonya cuisine and to learn firsthand about Peranakan culture.  Of course enjoying Laksa, this scrumptious Malaysian soup, will be a real treat while there.

Laksa (Coconut Curry  Soup)

Oh and we cannot forget Indonesia. We will make a stop in Bali and Java on our journey.  Bakmi Goreng is a dish I make regularly.  I simply love this recipe as it is a quick and easy meal to prepare.  It has a little bit of everything: sweet, sour, savory and spicy. It is also a very flexible recipe; you can make it with beef or chicken or seafood, it is all soooooo wonderful!

Bakmi Goreng (Seafood Stir Fried Noodles)

We will also be exploring Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam and then making a stop in Portugal, on our way home.  Of course, exploring street food and cooking with locals will be the highlight of every country.  Be on the lookout for great new posts, with recipes as well.  In the meantime, I hope you will enjoy some of our favorite dishes listed above.  Simply click on the name or the picture to get the recipes.

Until next time,

Stay warm with these amazing recipes.

Darlene Longacre

Netherlands, in the Dutch language, literally means, “Lowlands.”   Its name is fitting, as much of the land is actually below sea level.  Centuries ago, the people from the Kingdom of the Netherlands began building strong sea walls, called dykes.   You may remember the story from Hans Brinker, of The Silver Skates, about the little Dutch boy who plugged a dyke with his finger, saving the countryside below from flooding.  Statues of the fictional boy have been erected in various locations throughout the country, mainly for tourists to enjoy.  The Dutch used windmill powered pumps to drain the North Sea waters from behind the dykes.  The pumps are used to pump the sea water out, leaving low lying land behind, called polders.  Using this technique, they have actually been able to increase the size of their small nation.  Their constant battle against the sea has given the Dutch a strong sense of national pride.

The Netherlands is often mistakenly referred to as Holland.  This is because back in the 1800s, the area called Holland made the biggest contributions to the nation as a whole.  Holland is actually just two of twelve provinces within the nation.  Noord-and Zuid-Holland are what make up Holland.

The Netherlands is located in northwestern Europe.  Its land borders with Germany to the east and Belgium to the south.  It also has a large maritime border with the North Sea.  It shares this border with its two land neighbors and also the United Kingdom.

The Dutch have a long and fascinating history dating back some 37,000 years.  In 2009 a fragment of a Neanderthal skull was found partially buried in the sand on the floor of the North Sea.  Anthropologists estimate this fragment to be from the earliest years of inhabitants in the area.

The Dutch war, in which they were fighting for independence, is often referred to as “The Eighty Years War” (1568-1648.)  The first fifty years were between Spain and the Netherlands but in the last thirty years, much of Europe was involved and this segment is called “The Thirty Years War.”  During “The Eighty Years War”, the Dutch provinces became the most important trading centers of northern Europe.  In the 17^th and 18^th centuries, the Dutch were the most economically wealthy and scientifically advanced of all European nations. This time in history is referred to as “The Golden Era.”

The invention of the saw mill, allowed the Dutch to construct massive fleets of ships used for both trading and defense.  Known as a seafaring people, they were also keen mapmakers.  These undertakings allowed them to obtain an increasing position in world trade.  In 1602 the Dutch East India Company was founded, and was the first ever multinational corporation.  It was financed by shares creating the first modern stock exchange.  You may have heard of tulip fever which also occurred during this decade.  It was a bubble in the market when the price of tulip bulbs reached extraordinarily high levels and then crashed.  During this time, the Bank of Amsterdam was also established, and is considered to be the first ever, central bank.

The Dutch shipping fleet hunted whales, traded spices in India and Indonesia, and even founded colonies. These colonies include New Amsterdam, which today is called New York in the USA, South Africa and the West Indies.  The fleets conquered Portuguese colonies like northeastern Brazil, Angola, Indonesia and Ceylon.  They even began a trade monopoly with Japan.  They also dominated trade with European countries.  By the 1680s, nearly a thousand Dutch ships each year were sailing in the Baltic Sea.

After the Golden Era, there were many ups and downs.  In 1940, Germany took over the Netherlands, during World War II.  The Netherlands was known for diversity and acceptance of people, so the Holocaust hit them hard.  Approximately 107,000 Dutch Jews were deported to concentration camps and most perished there.  In the capital city of Amsterdam, remains the House of Anne Frank, where she and her family hid behind the walls of the main residence in a tiny cell, during the Second World War.  On August 4, 1944, the hiding place was discovered and all inhabitants were sent to concentration camps.  Her diary and papers were given to the sole survivor of the family, Otto Frank, Anne’s father.  Otto compiled her work and created “Anne Frank, The Diary of a Young Girl.”  This museum is one of Amsterdam’s most popular tourist attractions.

Amsterdam is one of the most visited cities in the world.  It is known for its beautiful canal ring and the impressive architecture.  There is a Museum Square which includes: the Van Gogh Museum, an art museum dedicated to his works and his contemporaries, the Rijksmuseum, home to many of the Dutch masters’ work, including Rembrandt and the Dutch National Art and History Museum, which ranks number one.  Amsterdam has the highest density of museums in the world.  Aside from art and history, one can enjoy a canal ride or shop at the authentic Nine Streets, visit the Red Light District or experience “coffee shops” where marijuana and hashish are sold, (Although it is technically not legal, it is unofficially tolerated).  There is a cheese museum, as Holland is famous for cheese.  The Dutch have been making cheese since 400 AD.  Also one of the most famous beers in the world, Heineken, is brewed there and offers tours.  In the flower market, they are famous for growing tulips and the tulip fields are always a big draw in springtime when the tulips are at their peak.  It should be noted that the first tulip bulb was actually imported from Turkey although today the Netherlands supplies 75% of the world’s bulbs.

There are three other big cities in the Netherlands: Rotterdam, which is the second largest port in the world, Utrecht, and Hague.  The Netherlands has the highest population density in all of Europe, with 487 people per square kilometer.  Hague is the seat of the Dutch government, Parliament and the Supreme Court.  It is also one of the select cities to host the United Nations. King Willem-Alexander became king on January 28, 2013.  He represents the kingdom both at home and abroad and is the second youngest monarch in the world. The Royal Family will move to the Palace of Hus ten Bosch in Hague, when renovations are complete.

The Netherlands is the bicycle capital of the world.  There are more bicycles than people.  The land is flat as a pancake and thousands of kilometers of bike paths, called fietspadens, have been built.  Pedestrians are not allowed to walk on them.  The average person rides their bike 2.5 km per day.  The Netherlands is also the windmill capital of the world.  The 19 polder, draining windmills of the Kinderdijk are an UNESCO world heritage site.  The Netherlands have used windmills for over 30 different uses; the most common use was for grinding grain and spices. Windmills are a national symbol of the country.

The official language in the Netherlands is Dutch, although nearly ninety percent also speak English.  As far as religion, the Netherlands is mostly Roman Catholic and Protestant, of those who practice religion, however 2/3 of the people claim no religious faith.  The Netherlands is known for their social acceptance and was the first country to legalize “same sex marriage” in 2001.

As we look into the cuisine of this nation, well let’s just say, aside from cheese, beer and gin, they are not especially known for their cuisine.  Herring, with chopped raw onions and pickles is considered to be the national dish.  Many people eat raw herring, straight down the hatch, with head and tail attached.  The Dutch consume some 12 million kilograms of herring every year.  Although seafood plays an important part in the Dutch diet, they are big vegetable eaters, with little meat consumed.  Potatoes play a large role in the traditional cuisine.  Grains, such as rye, are used for breads, as well as pumpkin and sunflower seeds.  Often sausages, called rookworst, accompany mashed potatoes and vegetables such as curly kale, in a dish called Boerenkool Stamppot.   Indonesian food is also very popular in their cuisine, as they had colonized Indonesia back in the day. Often times curry powder, and slices of pineapple or bananas are added to the stamppot, giving the oldest Dutch dish an exotic flair.

Dairy also plays a large role in the diet and only one percent of the population is believed to have lactose intolerance, the lowest in the world.  It may also account for why the Dutch are the tallest in the world. Most believe it the combination of good DNA and dairy.

International cuisines can be found throughout the cosmopolitan country.  Other favorite foods are: pancakes that are made both sweet and savory, called Pottertjes, snert a very popular pea soup especially in the winter (when made, the spoon should stand upright in the soup), mustard, pickles and sauerkraut are popular accompaniments, as is applesauce.  Children are served applesauce with nearly every meal and they mix it in with the potatoes and vegetables for sweetness.  For desserts, there are many: oliebollen is a famous dough that is fried and served on New Year’s Eve, stroopwafel is a thin waffle cookie with caramel in the middle, which is a national favorite.  They also love “the Dutch drop” which is a black licorice that can be found everywhere. They make them soft sweet, soft salt, hard sweet and hard salt.

So let us enjoy a Dutch meal:

The Menu

Starter

Bitterballen (A Deepfried, Meatball Served with Mustard)

Main Course

Boerenkool stamppot (Sausage with Mashed Potatoes and Kale)

Served with

Huzarensalade (Hussars Salad)

Dessert

Appeltaart (Dutch Apple Pie)

We set the scene with the color orange, as that is considered to be the color of the Netherlands.  The flag is now red, white and blue but it used to be orange white and blue, as that was the livery colors of the Dutch prince, William of Orange.  They even created a carrot, that was orange in color, to honor of their prince.  We added to our decor, an anchor, representing the seafaring nation, a picture of a windmill and little wooden shoes, known as clogs, called Klompen.  They are still worn by farmers, and gardeners are a popular tourist souvenir.

We began our meal with a pub fare, called bitterballen.  These are deep fried, meatballs but inside they contain a mixture of bechamel and minced seasoned beef.  Sometimes they are made as long sausages, instead of balls and are then called kroket.  They are both served with spicy mustard and enjoyed with an icy cold, Heineken beer.  These were so yummy and went especially well with soft gouda cheese, making for a lovely appetizer.  The Dutch are actually the largest exporter of cheese in the world.

We said, “Eet samkelijk” which means, “Bon appetit” in Dutch.  For the main course, we served their most famous dish, Boerenkool stamppot.  This dish is made with sausage, alongside a mashed potato and curly kale.  It was hard for me to make this dish as it was 105 degrees outside at my house and it seemed way too hardy to enjoy in this kind of heat.  The truth is, we thoroughly enjoyed it anyway. It was a simple and delicious combination of flavors.

We served the main course with a Hussars salad, which is a potato salad that contains several other ingredients.  Typically it is made with beef, however I eliminated the meat and kept it vegetarian.  This is probably the best potato salad I have ever tasted.  It was dressed with mayonnaise, toned down with white wine vinegar, making it much lighter than what I am used to.  It was the apple that added the tart, lovely, bite in the mix.  This salad would make a perfect lunch or light summer dinner.  We loved it!

For dessert, it was appeltaart.  This was probably the best apple dessert ever.  Saying this statement is almost sacrilege.  My grandmother, Agnes, made a mean apple pie and I often channel her spirit whenever I have to make a dough.  She was beyond amazing in how she could just whip up  a meal for eight or more people and bake three or four pies, after 18 holes on the golf course. I believe I got my passion for food from her.  I thought of her often making this dessert.  She was able to peel an entire apple with a paring knife, keeping the skin in one long, curling piece.  I like to try this because it reminds me of her.  This apple tart is similar to a pie but the crust is much softer than a pie, almost melting in your mouth.  The flavor was divine.  This dessert will be a staple in my home for years to come.  We enjoyed it with a cup of coffee, as the Dutch are the world’s biggest coffee drinkers.  They drink an average of 3.2 cups a day.  They also were the first to import coffee to Europe on a large scale, way back in 1600s.

As we say goodbye to most fascinating country, I leave you with a lovely Dutch proverb:

“Gezelligheid kent geen tijd” which means literally ”Coziness knows no time” or an English translation is:  “Time spent together is time well spent”.

Until next time,

“Vaarwel” which means, “Farewell.”

Darlene Longacre

The name Monaco comes from the Phocaean Greek colony, back in the sixth century B.C.  The Ligurians called it Monoikos which means “single house.”  It may stem from an ancient Greek myth, whereby Hercules passed through the area and turned the other gods away.  As a result, the temple of Hercules was constructed there.  Because it was the only temple in the land, the city was called Monoikos.

Monaco today is the most densely populated principality in the world, with about 19,000 people per kilometer.   Monaco is the second smallest country in the world, (Vatican City is the smallest.)  It is so small you can walk across the entire country in less than one hour.  Its total area is just a bit over one square mile.   It is surrounded on three sides by France, Italy is just a few kilometers away and on its southern border is the stunningly beautiful, Mediterranean Sea.  Just the name, Monaco, conjures up the images of royalty, a place for the rich and famous, yacht lined harbors and fast sport cars.

Monaco has the oldest ruling family in Europe.  It has been ruled by the Grimaldi family since gaining independence from the Republic of Genoa, in 1297.  It is run as a constitutional monarchy.  As recently as 2002, a treaty was signed with France allowing Monaco to remain an independent nation, even if the family stops producing heirs.

During a difficult monetary time in Monaco’s past, Princess Caroline established gambling casinos to prevent the ruling family from falling into bankruptcy.  The famous Casino de Monte-Carlo was opened in 1863.  The revenue from the casino brought in so much money that they quit charging their citizens income tax in 1869.  The casino has been featured in three James Bond films.  Interestingly, the citizens of Monaco are not allowed to gamble or visit the casino.  The government put the law in place so they do not gamble away their riches.  Monaco today remains a tax haven.  It is true there is no income tax but there is a nearly 20 percent value added tax on goods and services.  Corporations pay about 1/3 of their profits in tax.  The country still generates plenty of revenue from the casino as well as tourism, banking and financial industries.  Hollywood also has a love affair with Monaco, as over 50 films have been based there.  Film, radio and television are also important revenue generators for the country.

Monaco gets the prize for the most police per capita, which explains the very low crime rate. They also have the highest life expectancy in the world, at 90 years of age.  Not surprisingly, it has the most millionaires and billionaires per capita, as well.  Monaco really doesn’t have much in the way of natural resources, other than its oceans, but Monaco’s GDP is a staggering $153,115, one of the highest in world.

The population of Monaco is just over 38,000, however only about one-fifth of the population are natives.  The largest ethnicity is French, followed by Italians and a mix of others after that.  The natives are called Monegasque and the other residents are called Monacoian.  One problem they have stems from a growing population and limited space, so they have actually grown Monaco some 20 percent by reclaiming land from the sea.  There is no unemployment in Monaco, in fact during the busy season, they bring in workers from nearby France and Italy to accommodate the crowds.  Societe des Badins de Mer (SBM) is the country’s biggest employer.  It runs the majority of Monaco’s tourism activities.

The official language is French, but Italian, English and Monegasque are also spoken.  The sole currency is the euro, due to its relationship with France.  Although Monaco is not formally part of the European Union, it does participate in some of the policies.  France is also responsible for Monaco’s military defense.

Monaco was really put into the world spotlight when the American actress, Grace Kelly, married Prince Rainier, in 1956.  It is estimated that 30 million watched the occasion on television.  The actress met the Prince at a photo shoot, during the 1955 Cannes Film Festival.  Despite marrying a prince, in keeping with tradition, Kelly’s family had to pay the royal family a two million dollar dowry.  The couple had three children, two girls and one boy and the boy is now the current ruler of the land.  When Prince Albert II was born, the country celebrated with a 21 gun salute and the day after was declared a national holiday.  Everyone was treated to free champagne, which is the national drink of Monaco.

Monaco is well known for the most prestigious Formula One race, with its narrow streets, tight corners, elevation changes and the famous tunnel.  The Monaco Grand Prix is one of the oldest in the circuit, holding races since 1929.  The famous Brazilian racer, Ayrton Senna, won six times in his short career (more than any other driver in history.)  Whenever the Grand Prix is in town, the Hotel de Paris sells close to 2000 bottles of champagne.  The hotel’s wine cellar, dating back to 1874, is one of the most legendary cellars in the world, with over 450,000 bottles and 55 different types of bubbly.

Although you might think that Monaco is set up for jet setters, the truth is, they don’t even have an airport, only heliports. The closest airport is in Nice, France.  You can, of course, also get there by car, rail or yacht.  Each year, in September, they host the Monaco Yacht Show, where companies exhibit the best of the best of the super yachts.   Last year, the average length of these super yachts was 154 feet.

The Musee Oceanographique is one of the largest and most prestigious oceanographic museums in the world.  Its aquarium contains nearly 6000 specimens.  Aside from what the museum holds, the building itself is a masterpiece and one of the main focal points of Monaco. It is perched on the side of the cliffs of the Rock of Monaco and rises up from the sea, 85 meters high.  The architecture was inspired by the marine world.  It is a “must-see” tourist attraction while in Monaco.  Of course, you will also want to visit the Prince’s Palace.  The original fortress was built in 1215 and throughout the centuries it has been transformed into one of the most luxurious residences in the world, in the Louis XIV style.  The palace has galleries, an impressive car collection and everything else you might imagine a house of royalty would have.

As we look into the cuisine of this tiny nation, the heavy influences are clearly French and Italian.  Generally speaking, it is a Mediterranean diet consisting mainly of seafood, fresh vegetables and olive oil, as the most common ingredients.  Despite their small size, there are a few dishes that are considered to be Monegasque.  It is a toss-up for the national dish, between  a  street food called socca, which is a chickpea crepe, and barbagiuans, which are deep fried savory pastries, stuffed with chard, spinach, ricotta, onion and sometimes pumpkin.  The word barbagiuan means “Uncle John” and is always eaten on November 19, Monaco’s National Day.   Stocafi also pops up as a national dish and is a dish made with cod, as the main ingredient; simmered in a spicy tomato and herb sauce.  There is also a drink called a “Monaco,” which is a beer with seven-up and a splash of grenadine poured over ice;  a sweet refreshing drink on a warm summer day.

So let’s enjoy a Monegasque Meal

The Menu

Apertif

Socca  (Chickpea Crepe)

Soup

Soupe au Pistou (Vegetable Soup)

Main Course

Salade de Fruit de Mer (Seafood Salad)

Dessert

Prince Albert fraise-Mille Feuille (Pastry with Strawberry and Cream)

We set the scene at our table in red and white décor, as those are the colors of Monaco. There much beloved soccer team, AS Monaco, wears red and white uniforms and are referred to as Les Rouge et Blanc (the red and whites.) The flag is also red and white, exactly the same as Indonesia’s flag, except Indonesia’s flag is a bit wider.  Carnations adorned the table as well, as it is the national flower of Monaco.  Of course we added in our racing flags, since we absolutely love Formula One and hope to make it to the Grand Prix of Monaco one of these years.

We began with “a la votre” which means “to your health” and we clinked our plastic cups filled with ice and a light rose’ wine. We each had a hot serving of socca, a delicious chickpea crepe, flavored with a touch of rosemary.   It was wonderful on its own, but we imagined it could be flavored with all sorts of different herbs and would also make a lovely pizza base as well.  The plastic cups of wine is how socca is served on the streets of Monaco.

Next was a hearty and savory vegetable soup, called soupe au pistou.   It was topped with a delicious garnish, made of tomato, herbs, parmesan cheese, garlic and olive oil.  The garnish made this pretty ordinary vegetable soup into and extraordinary one.  We loved it served with a nice warm baguette.

For the main course we reveled in the most extravagant seafood salad; lobster, crab, mussels, scallops, shrimp and calamari, served on a bed of fresh baby greens.  The salad had a light balsamic dressing and was served with lemon.  The salad was also garnished with a few kalamata olives, the perfect addition of a salty finish. We enjoyed this amazing salad with a little bubbly.  Did I mention champagne is the national drink of Monaco?

For dessert we had the light and delicious fraise millefeuille, named after Prince Albert, as it is said to be his favorite.  He is onto something.  It is a light pastry topped with cream and strawberries and pairs perfectly with champagne.

After our feast, we sat down and watched an old classic racing movie, Gran Prix, starring James Garner that was filmed in Monaco.  The race is held at the end of May, which is right around the corner.  Could this be our year?  At the very least, we will have a wonderful meal to enjoy while watching it.

I leave you with a quote from the late Grace Kelly.

“I would like to be remembered as someone who accomplished useful deeds, and who was a kind and loving person.  I would like to leave the memory of a human being with a correct attitude and who did her best to help others.”

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene

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The Federated States of Micronesia is the official name of this country, comprising 607 small islands and, an even larger number of atolls in the western Pacific Ocean.  The country is part of the area known as the Caroline Islands, which are thousands of small islands divided among several countries. Coincidentally, these islands are also part of a wider region also known as Micronesia. However, the Federated States of Micronesia is referred to as FSM or simply Micronesia, for short.

The name Micronesia stems from two Greek words, mikros, meaning small and nesos, meaning island.  The combined land area of this nation is only 271 square miles but it covers a longitudinal distance, from east to west, is about 1600 miles. However the islands occupy more than a million square miles of the Pacific Ocean.  The closest neighbors are New Guinea, Guam and the Marianas, Nauru and the Philippines.  The ocean area makes this country the 14^th largest Exclusive Economic Zone in the world.  The country contains four states: Yap, Chuuk (also known as Truk), Pohnpei and Kosrae which are centered around one or more high islands.  Each state, except Kosrae, includes numerous outlying atolls.  The Capital is Palikir, located on Pohnpei. The entire population of Micronesia is only slightly over 115,000 people.

Micronesians’ ancestry dates back some 4000 years.  The Portuguese were the first Europeans to discover the islands while searching for the Spice Islands of Indonesia.  Then it was ruled by the Spanish in the 16^th Century.  The Spanish incorporated the islands as part of the Spanish East Indies and in 1887 founded the town of Santiago de las Ascension, which today is Kolonia, on the island of Pohnpei.  The Spanish sold the archipelago to Germany after their defeat in the Spanish-American War.  In 1899 it became part of German New Guinea.  It was then captured by Japan during World War I and became part of the South Pacific Mandate after that war.  The Truk Lagoon was an important station for the Japanese fleet during World War II.  It was in February of 1944 when Operation Hailstone, one of the most important naval battles of the war, occurred destroying many Japanese vessels and aircraft.  Following the war, Micronesia became part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, administered by the United States of America (USA.)

Micronesia gained independence on November 3, 1986.  They became part of the United Nations in 1991.  The USA is wholly responsible for the defense of Micronesia.  The relationship with the USA allows citizens of Micronesia to join the US military without having permanent residency or citizenship.  It also allows for immigration and employment for Micronesian's in the USA.  Micronesia is extremely dependent of the USA as its primary source of income, which remains a major concern for the nation.

The main economic activity revolves around subsistence farming and fishing.  Tourism plays an important role as well, but the lack of good infrastructure and the remoteness of the islands, makes it difficult.  The government employs a large segment of the population but unemployment runs very high, around 25%.  English is the official language, yet native languages are also spoken like: Chuukese, Kosrean, Pohnpeian, and Yapese, to name a few.  It is a Christian nation, divided between Catholics and Protestants.  The Church plays an important role in society. The constitution provides for religious freedom and missionaries of many religions are present and operate freely there.

Each state in the FSM has considerable autonomy and is unique in their own culture.  However, there are also common bonds that are centuries old, like the importance of the traditional extended family and clan systems, that are found on each island.

The island of Yap may be the most intriguing in Micronesia, as it is steeped in ancient traditions, many of which are still practiced today.  Dance is how legends are passed down and how history is recorded.  Children from a young age are taught these important lessons through dance.  Grass skirts are worn by the women, made of banana fiber and hibiscus bark, and th’us, a type of loin cloth, is worn by the men.  These are still worn as clothing on this island.  They continue to live a traditional lifestyle where fishing, sailing and weaving are integral parts of everyday village life.  Yap has also become a world renowned diving destination, as this is the only place on earth where manta rays can be seen year round.  Yap is also known for its stone money.  Massive carved stones were transported from a quarry in Palau.  The value of stone money is derived from the oral history of each piece.  The canoe, made in all the states, is extremely important to all Micronesians, along with special navigational tools which are taught on Yap.  Each year a festival is held demonstrating Yap’s unique navigational talents, which can be seen nowhere else in the world.

On the island of Chuuk, there is a fun tradition known as the love stick.  Young men carve two sticks of the same design; a short one to be used for his hair and a long one for the woman.  When a man likes a woman, he uses the long love stick to poke into her hut.  If she likes him, she will pull on the stick signaling to him it is okay to come in.  If she pushes it out, she is not interested.  On Chuuk, the clothing is made from colorful, cloth decorated with island flowers, which is a favorite souvenir among tourists.

Pohnpei has the largest and tallest island in the FSM.  It gets lots of rainfall, which creates more than 40 rivers that feed into the rain forest.  Waterfalls are simply spectacular on this island.  This island is also well known for its diving around the hard coral reefs.  There are also the Nan Madol Ruins, called the Venice of the Pacific.  It is a man-made city with ocean-filled channels that once housed a thriving royal civilization.  Additionally, huge basalt pillars are still standing and believed to have formed the residences of kings.  These ruins are still being studied and explored for a better understanding of ancient Pohnpeian civilization.  This island is also famous for its drink sakau, similar to kava root.  The pepper plant is taken from the wild and a brew, made from its roots, is presented at a special ceremony. The relaxing, numbing drink, with effects similar to alcohol, is enjoyed in ceremonies and also in local bars.

Kosrae is the place to escape.  Mysterious, ancient Lelu ruins can be found there, along with wonderful hiking opportunities.  One is Mount Finkol, called the sleeping lady, where a series of gushing waterfalls can be found in the verdant jungle.  It is also known for its exceptional diving where visibility in these pristine waters is over 200 feet.  It is believed that Kosrae is home to some of the healthiest coral reefs anywhere in the world.  Kosrae is well known for its citrus fruits.  Oranges, limes, and tangerines can be found in all the street markets there.

As we look into the cuisine of Micronesia, the staple foods are taro, yam, bread-fruit, coconuts and bananas.  Rice is also an important imported staple.  The ocean provides fish, and shellfish of all varieties.  Almost every family on the islands of Pohnpei, and Kosrae, raise pigs and chickens, which are cooked for special occasions.

So let’s enjoy a Micronesian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Kelaguen (Raw Shrimp Cooked in Lemon Juice)

Main Course

Micronesian BBQ (Marinated Chicken and Ribs)

Served with

Sweet Potatoes and Bananas

Dessert

Micronesian Pudding (Coconut Milk Pudding over Cake)

We set the scene with the color blue, which represents the ocean on the Micronesian flag, along with four stars, representing each state.  Yam, bananas, citrus and coconut were placed to display what grows on these beautiful tropical islands.  A canoe and some sea shells completed the setting.

Our first course was kelaguen.  It is basically a ceviche or seafood cooked in lemon juice.  In Micronesia is can be made with shrimp, fish, beef, chicken and even spam.  The dish also includes salt, green onions, hot peppers and grated coconut or coconut cream.  Please note that if chicken is used, it is first barbecued.  Also spam would be served in the back kitchen not set out for guests.  It is stylish to serve multiple types of kelaguen on a separate table.  We loved this dish made with shrimp.  It was outstanding!

Next was the main course, chicken and pork ribs that were both marinated overnight in a Pacific island marinade and then barbecued.  Cooking over an open flame is what most families do in Micronesia.  The marinade really did have an island flavor, made with soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, onions and garlic.  This marinade is extremely versatile and would be delicious on just about anything.  We loved it on both the chicken and the ribs.

The barbecued meat was served alongside a sweet and savory side dish of bananas and sweet potatoes.  The potatoes were first boiled until tender and then combined with bananas and fried in butter.  The side dish was a delicious combination of flavors.

For dessert, we enjoyed a few more island flavors, called Micronesian pudding.  The pudding was made with coconut milk, vanilla, sugar, butter and cornstarch, combined to make the topping for a yellow cake.  It was then dusted with cinnamon.  It was a delightful end to our Micronesian meal.

As we say goodbye to the Federated States of Micronesia.  I simply like to dream about being on any one of those beautiful remote islands, simply known for their palm-shaded beaches and unparalleled coral reefs.

Until next time,

Darlene

Malaya, is what this country once was called, which means, “hill or high ground.”  Malay is the main ethnic group that inhabits the country.  The earliest Malays were referred to as Kun-lun people by the Chinese, back in 688 A.D.  Malays, or more specifically Austronesian's, were reported in the “Old Book of Tang”, as merchants who arrived in ships with valuable goods to trade with the Chinese.  Today the country is called Malaysia, which holds a rich history.  After gaining independence from the United Kingdom, in 1957, Malaya was known as the Federation of Malaya.  In 1963, Singapore, Sabah and Sarawak were combined with Malaya to become the country of Malaysia.  However, shortly thereafter, Singapore was expelled from the federation, due to racial riots and became a country of its own.

Malaysia is part of Southeast Asia.  It is located on the Asian mainland known as West Malaysia and shares a border with Thailand.  It is connected by a causeway and a bridge to the island state of Singapore, with coastlines on the South China Sea and the Straits of Malacca.  East Malaysia is on the island of Borneo and shares borders with Brunei and Indonesia.

The capital city, and largest city, Kuala Lumpur, is located on the Malay Peninsula in West Malaysia.  It is home to the bulk of the Malaysian population.  It is much more developed and urbanized than the east.  The two sides of the peninsula are separated by the Titiwangsa mountain range.  East Malaysia is about 800 km from the West Peninsula and occupies the northern third of the island of Borneo.  The island is partly covered by impenetrable jungle and is rich in natural resources but has a history of headhunters.

Malaysia is run as a federal, parliamentary democracy with a constitutional monarch.  The king’s position, nominally heads the government and rotates every five years between nine hereditary Malay rulers.  The king selects the prime minister from the leading coalition in parliament; a body of elected representatives.  There have been several uprisings but never a military coup since their independence.  The government demands a great deal of deference from the public.  Malaysia retains aspects of a police state, from back in the days of British Malaya.  The police are heavily armed and anyone found possessing an illegal firearm receives a mandatory death sentence.

Malaysia has a complicated history with kingdoms and sultanates, along with colonization from European powers like the Portuguese, Dutch and ultimately the English.  Japan had even taken over the area for a brief period, during World War II.  They arrived at the port of Khota Baru the same day they bombed Pearl Harbor.  They stole bicycles from villages along the way and it took them 45 days to arrive in Singapore.  The English however wanted to maintain the colony, as they were interested in the tin and rubber industries there.  It was the English who were responsible for bringing in Chinese and Indian laborers to work in those profitable industries.

These events have made Malaysia a very cultural and ethnically diverse country.  Today, Malay make up about 55 percent of the population, with Chinese around 23 percent, indigenous people about 12 percent and 7 percent are from India.  The balance are non-citizens from surrounding areas, including some Europeans.  The Malays and the indigenous groups are known as Bumiputras or “Sons of the soil.”  The official religion of Malaysia is Muslim, however they allow freedom of religion. The Chinese population is mostly Buddhist and the Indians are mainly Hindu.  Christianity is also practiced by about nine percent of the population, mostly in Sabah and Sarawak in East Malaysia.  The official language is Malay, with English taught as a secondary language. However, each ethnic group speaks their own language, with at least 137 languages identified.

Malaysia is ranked 14^th in the world, as one of the most competitive economies. They are the third richest in Southeast Asia, by GDP per capita, after Singapore and Brunei.  Back in 1971 they put economic reforms in place called, “The Malaysian New Economic Policy” and ran a newly industrialized, market economy.  This move allowed the Bumiputeras to rise out of poverty through special privileges in housing development, scholarships, and ownership of publically traded companies.  The government also subsidizes and controls prices on essential items to keep the cost of living low.  They have an extremely low unemployment rate, of only three percent.  Malaysia is a major hub for electrical component manufacturing, solar equipment and the automotive industries.  Although agriculture no longer plays a prominent role in exports, they are large producers of palm oil and rubber.  In an effort to make Malaysia’s economy less dependent on exports, the government pushed to increase tourism.  This was another big success, as Malaysia is now ranked 11^th in the world and second in Southeast Asia for tourism arrivals.

It is no wonder that tourism ranks so high.  Aside from the multicultural society, where festivals of all types take place, there is astonishing natural beauty, from gorgeous beaches to ancient, tropical rainforests.  The national parks are excellent for wildlife watching and offer cave exploration and river rafting.  There are six UNESCO World Heritage sites to explore, a couple of them are entire, historic towns.  Shopping is another big enticement, with malls in Kuala Lumpur being destinations in and of themselves.  One also cannot underestimate their exquisite cuisine as another draw for tourism.

As we look into the cuisine of Malaysia, they share many dishes with neighboring Brunei, Indonesia and Singapore.  They also have influences from the Chinese, Indians and the indigenous populations. Thai, Portuguese, Dutch and British cuisines are also represented.  The fusion of the multicultural society makes for a highly diverse, complex and delicious cuisine.  Rice, nasi, remains the most important staple food.  Malaysia produces about 70 percent of the amount of rice it needs and imports the rest.  Noodles are also extremely popular, as is Indian style breads.  Fish, both fresh and dried, are abundant and mainstays in the diet.  Chicken and beef are also readily available and handled according to Halal standards, which means it is permitted under Islamic Shariʻah (law.)  The Chinese eat pork, but it is marked as non-halal, and Muslims do not consume it.  All types of exotic fruits and vegetables are grown and consumed as part of the Malaysian diet.  Often, green, leafy vegetables are stir fried with a shrimp paste and hot chili peppers.  Carrots, cucumbers, onions and beans are used to make a pickle called acar.  The durian is a pungent, spiky fruit known as the “King of Fruits.”  People either love it or hate it.  The fruit is sometimes banned from hotels and subways due to its pungent smell.  The mangosteen, in contrast to the durian, is called the “Queen of Fruits.”  Chili peppers are indispensable in Malaysian cuisine.  The come in all shapes and sizes and are used both fresh and dried. They are often ground into a paste or sambal and served alongside as a condiment or garnish.  Lemongrass, garlic and ginger, tamarind and pandan leaves, are also prevalent.  Coconut, in all its forms, is quintessential in Malaysian cuisine as well.

So let’s enjoy a Malaysian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Chicken Sate (BBQ Chicken on Sticks)

 Main Course

Nasi Lemak (Coconut Rice with Dried Anchovy Sambal)

Served with

Laksa (Coconut Curry  Soup)

Kerabu (Coconut and Chili Salad)

Dessert

Pisang Goreng (Fried Bananas)

We set the scene with a variety of exotic flowers, including hibiscus, which is the national flower of Malaysia.  Tiger figurines represented the national animal but we also included a picture of an orangutan, as they are endemic to the islands of Borneo and Sumatra.  The name orangutan means, “man of the forest” and they are the closest genetic relative of humans.  Also, we had a photograph of the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur.  They are the largest twin towers in the world.  The two massive buildings are joined by a sky bridge at level 41 which is 558 feet off the ground.  The towers are an astonishing overall height of 1483 feet and a prideful symbol of Malaysia.

We began with a very popular street food that is loved all over the world.  Sate, as it is spelled in Malay, is known as satay everywhere else.  This appetizer is one of my all time favorites.  The complex marinade that the chicken is flavored in and the peanut, dipping sauce, are just simply scrumptious. The chicken was perfectly tender and delicious.  It is almost always served with cucumber and onions.  Simply awesome!

Meals are typically served all at once in Malaysia, as opposed to in courses. So everything else was brought out family style, except for dessert.  We said, “Jemput makan” which means, “Please eat” in Malay.

Nasi Lemak is ubiqutious in Malaysia and considered to be the national dish.  Although it is typically served for breakfast, it was enjoyed as part of our Malaysian feast.  The dish is a coconut milk, steamed rice that is flavored with pandan leaves.  A dried, anchovy sambal called Ikan Bilis was served alongside the rice.  The sambal was super spicy, with complex flavors and we served it next to fried sardines, fried anchovies, hardboiled egg, peanuts and cucumber.  It was served on a banana leaf, as would be customary in Malaysia.

A laksa was made with a delicous, coconut, curry broth and topped with vermicelli noodles, shrimp, tofu cake puffs, hardboiled eggs and bean sprouts.  Nearly every region has its own version of laksa and we loved this one.  It is really a meal unto itself.

A delicious coconut and chili salad, called kerabu, was also served.  Fresh, shredded cocounut with thinly sliced, red onion, bell pepper, chilis and bean sprouts, made up this light and refreshing salad.  However, it was clearly the dressing that was the star, bringing on those distict Southeast Asian flavors, that we love so much.  The dressing was made with fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and gingerroot. It is a keeper indeed.

For dessert, we prepared a deep fried, baby banana, which is another common street food or snack called, pisang goreng.  The warm banana was served on a banana leaf and dipped in the sweet, soy based sauce, called kesap, which is so loved in the region.  Although it seemed odd to dip it in soy sauce, it somehow was as satisfying as a rich chocolate.

After our meal, we decided to try a Malaysian game called “sepak takraw”  or “hit the ball.”  The game resembles volleyball.  The object is to keep the ball (typically made from bamboo or ratan) from hitting the ground, using anything but your hands.  Exact rules were drawn up and were formally introduced in the Southeast Asia Games in 1965.  It is not so easy, but we enjoyed trying!

Until next week,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Camahogne, was what the Carib Indians called their island. The Caribs took over the island from the original inhabitants, the Arawaks. It was Christopher Columbus’s third voyage to the New World, in 1498, when he discovered and named the islands “Concepcion”. The sailors of his fleet changed the name to Granada, as it was a better reflection of the beauty they found there.

This island nation is made up of the main island, Grenada, and six other smaller islands, located in the southeastern part of the Caribbean Sea. She is small, at only 133 square miles and a total population of less than 110,000. Grenada’s neighbors are Barbados to the east, St. Vincent and the Grenadines to the north and Trinidad and Tobago to the south, along with Venezuela.

Although Columbus discovered the islands, it was the French that first colonized them; arriving in 1650 and then changed the name from Granada to “Le Grenade”. In a long and bloody campaign, most of the Caribs were annihilated. The few that remained, planned an attack on Fort St. George, in the capital city. The Caribs were chased to a steep, seaside cliff and when they realized they had no escape, they jumped into the sea. All of those who jumped perished and the point was named “Le Morne des Sauteurs” or Jumpers Hill.

The rich, fertile, volcanic soil was in high demand and the British and French fought over the territory for ninety years. The French finally gave up control after signing the treaty of Versailles in 1793. The British named the island Grenada, (pronounced Gra-NAY-da) and the name remains today. The British wasted no time in maximizing their sugar plantations on the island. African slaves were brought over to work on the plantations. Britain finally abolished slavery in Grenada in 1834 and Grenada gained her independence on February 7, 1974. Today, Africans make up the largest ethnic group on the islands.

Today the country is run as a parliamentary democracy, with the Queen of England as the Head of State. Back in 1983, Grenada was seized by a Cuban trained, Marxist, military council, who executed the Prime Minister, Maurice Bishop, along with other members of his cabinet. This, together with evidence that they were building a runway equipped for large military equipment, prompted President Ronald Reagan of the United States to take immediate action. He deployed troops and almost overnight, toppled the Marxist Regime. Democracy was restored. October 25th is celebrated each year in Grenada as Thanksgiving Day; as they have remained a peaceful society ever since.

The main religion on the island is Christianity; mostly Roman Catholics and Protestants. Many holidays and festivals revolve around the Christian holidays. English is the official language of Grenada, although it is spoken with a creole twist. They also celebrate Carnival, in August. This is a huge, street festival with masqueraders dancing to the sounds of steel bands and DJ’s playing that Calypso rhythm, so popular in all of the Caribbean.

Grenada is referred to as “The Spice Island”. They are the second largest exporter of nutmeg in the world, behind Indonesia. They also export cinnamon, mace, allspice and cloves. The intoxicating aroma of spices is said to linger in the air. Organic chocolate has become a new valuable commodity. They grow the cocoa and process the chocolate on the island. It is in high demand, from some of the best chocolatiers in the world.

Grenada has had very few hurricanes in her history. However, one that hit the island, causing nearly total destruction of the crops and infrastructure, was Hurricane Ivan in 2004. After losing ninety percent of the crops, Grenada focused heavily on tourism to diversify their economy and it appears that they are doing quite well. Beautiful beaches with pristine snorkeling and diving, amazing hiking trails, with countless waterfalls, are all popular attractions in Grenada. After losing most of their coral reef in the hurricane, an artist by the name Jason De Caires Taylor, designed an underwater sculpture gallery. It lies 24 feet below the surface and houses 79 sculptures in all. It is a man-made reef, in essence, that has become part of the underwater plant and animal refuge, serving as a safe haven for wildlife. Another attraction there is the oldest rum distillery in all the Caribbean, still in existence. And oh how the Grenadians love their rum punch, with a light sprinkling of their sacred nutmeg.

As we look into the cuisine of the small island nation, it is clear that the main culinary influence comes from what is grown on the island, combined with the traditions of her people. All types of tropical fruits are found there and they are part of the everyday diet, in juices and fruit salads. They are also the basis for the many flavors of rum punch. Their staple produce includes: corn, beans, avocado, sweet potato, breadfruit, taro and plantains. Meat is available, mostly chicken and pork, along with an abundance of seafood. The national dish is called “oil down”, a stew, consisting of pork parts and salt cod, along with breadfruit, carrots and dumplings all of which are slowly simmered in an array of spices and coconut milk. This process usually happens over the course of the day and best enjoyed with family and friends, especially when made on an open fire at the beach.

So let’s enjoy a Grenadian meal!

The Menu
Starter
Fruit Salad

Main
Calypso Pork
Served with Black Bean and Corn Salad

&
Sweet Potato Mash

Dessert
Nutmeg Ice Cream

What better way to begin a festivity than with calypso music, playing that tantalizing, rhythmic beat in the background? We lit scented, spice candles to emulate that enchanting fragrance of “The Spice Island.” We decorated with a variety of tropical fruits and spices. Bougainvillea is their national flower and made for an exquisite décor, along with a few palm fronds. We also placed a small box holding two white doves in honor of their national bird, the Pea also known as Well’s dove, which, sadly, is endangered.

We sat down at the table and lifted our glasses of rum punch with “Cheers”. Our first course was a simple fruit salad, made with orange, papaya and banana, topped with a little grated nutmeg. I so love the fresh citrusy essence of freshly, grated nutmeg and it was perfect on the fruit.

Next was the main course; a real treat. The combination of flavors of the roast pork, with a distinct orange and spice flavored sauce, served over spinach, was sublime. This was accompanied by a black bean and corn salad, accented with a light lime dressing. This colorful, cold, salad was amazing and one I will make often. It was simple and delicious.
Another incredible, side dish was the sweet potato mash, flavored with all the tantalizing Grenadian spices.

For dessert, we savored homemade, nutmeg, ice cream. This ice cream can be found all over the island. Nutmeg is the pure essence of Grenada and even their flag proudly displays it.
As we say goodbye to the tiny Island nation, I leave you with a few, fun, local words and sayings. We are off to learn how to play cricket; a much loved bat and ball game in Grenada and where the 2007 Cricket World cup was held.

When flour comes to water= when push comes to shove
Vrooping =Jumping from here to there.
Sweetie = any confectionery
Swallow a breadfruit = become pregnant and
Study your head = watch out what you’re doing.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

The East Timorese call their country Timor Lorosa’e which means, “Rising sun”. East Timor or Timor-Leste, as it is also known, is located on the island of Timor. The island is part of the Indonesian archipelago and lies between the South China Sea and the Indian Ocean about 400 miles northwest of Darwin Australia. East Timor is the first sovereign state of the 21st century. She shares the island with the country of Indonesia.

The first arrivals to the island were the Vedo-Australoid people, related to the Sri-Lankans, sometime between 40,000 and 20,000 B.C. The Melanasian people migrated to Timor around 3000 B.C., and remain the largest ethnic group there today (Malay and Pacific Islanders). In Ancient Timor, they exported beeswax, spices and the highly sought after; fragrant sandalwood. The island was colonized by the Portuguese from 1600 to 1975. In 1613 the Dutch took control of the western portion of the island and fought for control of the whole island, until 1860, when a treaty was signed separating the two countries. In 1949, the Dutch recognized the western portion of the island as Indonesia.

Just nine, short days after East Timor gained independence from Portugal, she was invaded by Indonesia, which began the next twenty five years of hell. It is estimated that 200,000 East Timorese lost their lives (nearly one-third of the entire population) due to war related starvation, disease and unspeakable massacres and atrocities. In 1999, the United Nation forces finally stepped in and allowed for an election. Eighty percent of the East Timorese people voted to secede from Indonesia and demanded their independence. They finally gained it May 20, 2002.

During those twenty five years, seventy percent of all infrastructure was wiped out. Ninety percent of the schools and healthcare facilities were demolished. Even the fishing villages and boats were destroyed and so was their ability to fish, which provided the main source of food for the East Timorese people. Today the forests make up only one percent of the territory, thanks to slash and burn agriculture and deforestation. Much of the vegetation was eradicated during the Indonesian invasion, from the use of poisonous chemicals like Agent Orange.

Needless to say, the East Timorese are still recovering from all this, albeit slowly. The country is now run as Parliamentary Republic and the “Head of State” is the president. East Timor is considered to be the poorest country in Asia. However, oil and gas recently discovered off shore, is the new hope of prosperity for this land and her people. Dili is the capital city and the main industries are printing and soap manufacturing. They grow coffee, rice, maize and cassava to export and they also export marble and their coveted, sandalwood.

East Timor has a tropical climate with two seasons; a wet season, from December to April and a dry season, from May to November. The land is a rugged terrain, with Mt. Ramelau being the highest peak, at nearly 10,000 feet. They also have plenty of challenges from Mother Nature such as floods, earthquakes, landslides and tsunamis. Timor is located in what is called a tectonic subduction zone, where tectonic plates slide under one another creating instability and massive earthquakes. Since 1900, 212 earthquakes with a magnitude of 7.0 or more have occurred in the region (most beneath the sea) and with them tsunamis, on average, one tsunami every 14 months.

The official languages are Tetum and Portuguese, however there are at least 12 local languages and many speak Bahasa Indonesia and some, English. Interestingly, their currency is the United States (US) dollar. They use US coins but also have the Portuguese minted centavos in the same denominations as US coins. As for religion, the majority of the people are Roman Catholic followed by Protestants, Muslims, Hindus and Buddhists. Their festivals and celebrations happen around Christmas and Easter and of course Independence Day.

As we look into the cuisine of East Timor, the influences are clear. The Portuguese introduced their cuisine, as they were part of the culture there for almost 400 years. For example, feijoada is very well-liked. (Remember the bean stew, with beef and pork, from our journey to Brazil?) Indonesian cuisine is also popular, with influences from India and China. They like their food spicy and of course, the local ingredients found on and around the island are used as the main stays of the cuisine. Interestingly, rice is popular, however corn is considered the staple.

So let’s eat East Timorese

The Menu
Appetizer

Bolado with Ai-manas
Hard-boiled eggs with chili paste

Main
Ikan Pepes (fish in curry sauce)

Served with
Rice & Batar Da’an (a pumpkin and corn dish)

Dessert
Rujak (fruit salad with cream and nuts)

We set the stage for our East Timorese meal with the colors of their flag; red, yellow, black and white. The color white, represents peace and the star is considered to be “the light that guides.” We placed a small bowl of water on the low table, as it would be customary to wash your hands with it before eating. The East Timorese either eat with only their right hand or with a spoon and fork. The spoon is held in the right hand and the fork is used to push the food onto the spoon.

We began with an appetizer, which is a common street food found all over East Timor and usually sold by kids. It is a deep fried, hard-boiled egg which sells for 25 cents. The egg is served with a very spicy, chili paste. We never had a fried, hard-boiled egg before and the result was a nice, crispy touch to the outside of the egg. No batter was necessary, it does it all on its own. We loved them.

The remainder of the meal was served family style. The whole, red snapper was seasoned with a curry made of spices and tamarind. The fish was first steamed in a banana leaf and then grilled. It was tender and perfect, served with rice, lemon wedges and another popular dish called, batar da’an. It consisted of corn, mung beans and pumpkin. This is a wonderful vegetarian dish that could easily be a main course all by itself.

For dessert, we delighted in fresh fruit, served with cream and nuts. Drinks are not normally served before or during the main meal. However, we enjoyed a strong coffee with our dessert. When being offered a drink in East Timor, it should be received with both hands. All food that is offered should be accepted as a gift and when you are finished you should leave a small amount of food on the plate, except that all the rice should be eaten. Then, place your fork and spoon face down on the plate, with the spoon crossed over the top of the fork.

Ancient legend says that Timor was created after an aging crocodile transformed itself into the island to compensate a boy that helped it when it was ailing. The boy’s descendants are believed to be the natives of Timor. Poetry is an integral part of tradition on the island to tell such stories. Here are a couple of poems I found enjoyable:

“Grandfather Crocodile” written by the President Poet, Xanana Gusmao
From the depths of the ocean
a crocodile in search of a destiny
spied the pool of light, and there he surfaced
Then wearily, he stretched himself out
in time
and his lumpy hide was transformed
into a mountain range
where people were born
and where people died
Grandfather crocodile
- the legend says
and who am I to disbelieve
that he is Timor!

And another one, by AVCAT
"I Have a Country..."
“I have a country, it is an island
But no one knows it is an island,
because no one knows I have a country
It is not in the Caribeans, where the sun dances
Atlantic waves its seas, breezes on happy faces
But my island is pacific, near the Indic
No one knows where it is, because no one knows.
Where it is.
I have a country! it is Pacific
But no one knows it is Pacific,
because no one knows I have a country
It is not Indic, where great men once sailed
in search of a route, to the orient
But my island is Pacific, not the Orient.
No one knows where it is, because no one knows.
Where it is.
I have a country! it is mountainous
But no one knows it is mountainous,
because no one knows I have a country
The mountain ranges, peak to peak.
Yet not so great, like the Himalayas,
where one marvels, and be inspired.
My mountains are just plain mountains.
When you look, you look at mountains because they are mountains....

I have a country, it is Timor Loro Sa'e
But no one knows it is Timor Loro Sa'e,
because no one knows where it is.
Do you know where it is?”

As we say goodbye, I am happy to say, yes, we now know of this country, East Timor!

Warmest regards,
Darlene

Comoros is a group of three volcanic islands which are located between East Africa and Madagascar in the Indian Ocean. Nzwani (Anjouan), Mwali ( Moheli) and Ngazidga (Grand Comore) are their names. There is a fourth Island named Mahore (Mayotte) but it still belongs to the French, although the people of Comoros claim it as their own. The name Comoro comes from the Arabic word qumr meaning “moon” however the residents call their country Masiwa, simply, “the Islands”.

The Islands are blessed with beautiful beaches and with quaint villages that dot the countryside. Each island is unique in its natural characteristics and attractions. The nation’s capital, Moroni, located on Grand Comore, is said have intoxicating Arabian charm. Moroni translates as "in the heart of the fire." She sits at the foot of Mount Karthala, an active volcano that erupts about every 11 years. There you will also find the grandiose, Vendredi Mosque. Only males are allowed to go inside this holy mosque. The men must be dressed in full length trousers and must have washed their feet before entering the mosque.

The Islands were colonized by Africans in the eighth century. Islam was introduced back in the 11th century. Today Sunni Islam is the national religion and practiced by 98 percent of the population. The Comoros Islands for centuries were a major stopover of mercantile routes and played a major role in the world’s economy. The French colonized the islands in 1886 and they remained under French rule until 1975. The Islands have been victim to many coup attempts since her independence from France. With the aid of other countries and the African Union, the government in 2001 signed a new constitution where the Islands were granted greater autonomy and are now considered to be somewhat stable.

The most common language is Shikomoro, a Swahili dialect, however French and Arabic are widely spoken. All three are considered official languages. Comorians receive a Koranic education and learn to write their language in Arabic characters. Formal education is given in French and the literacy rate has improved in recent years and is now up to 75 percent.

These Islands are poor, with 60 percent of the population living below the poverty line and they rank 184th in Gross Domestic Product, making them one of the poorest nations on earth. They import rice and other food stuff, consumer goods, petroleum, cement and transport equipment. They export vanilla, ylang-ylang, cloves and copra. Agriculture is 80 percent of the Islands’ work force. Fishing and tourism are becoming growth sectors of their economy.

Comoros is the second largest exporter of vanilla beans in the world, behind Madagascar. It is also the second most expensive export behind saffron, (I just bought two beans for $13.00, at my local grocery store.) They are the largest exporter of ylang-ylang, which is an essential oil produced from the flower of the Cananga Odorata tree. It offers a wide assortment of benefits. It is used as an antidepressant, a skin and hair remedy, it kills bacteria, lowers blood pressure, and also is used as an aphrodisiac. In fact, in Indonesia, it is customary to scatter the petals of this flower across a honeymoon bed. But mainly, ylang-ylang’s sweet, soft, flowery, romantic fragrance is used in the making of perfume. The very early inhabitants referred to the Islands as the "Perfume Islands"

The staple ingredients in their cuisine are rice and cassava, seafood, fresh and dried plantains, and coconuts. Castrated goat is served for special celebrations on the Islands, which are mainly religious observances. They also celebrate two New Years in Comoros. The first is the traditional New Year on January 1st and the other follows the Islamic calendar. They celebrate their Independence Day on July 6. These festivals include music, dancing and cultural performances, which recreate popular and important literary texts, including war epics and tales from the villages. Of course the festivals showcase their very best food.

As I looked into the cuisine of this archipelago nation, I decided cooking something from the sea would be most fitting. (Besides, I didn’t want to think about castrating a goat.) The influences on their cuisine are French, African and Arabian. The religious influence is major as well. Although alcohol can be found in some European restaurants and tourist locations on the Islands, most Comorians do not partake.

So let’s eat Comorian style:

The Menu
Starter
Soupe faux pois (Sweet Pea Soup)

Main
Langouste a la vanilla (Lobster with Vanilla Bean Butter)

Dessert
Fruits frais a la cannelle (Fresh Fruit with Cinnamon )

We set the table with the many colors of the Comoros flag; green, yellow, white, red and blue. We lit a ylang-ylang candle which emitted a lovely floral scent. In Comoros, it is proper to say “bismillah” (thanks to Allah) before eating. We began the meal with a really special sweet pea soup. It had some spiciness from the cayenne and ginger and was made creamy with a light coconut milk. We loved it and I think I will have to add this to my favorites list.

For the main course, we savored the lobster with vanilla butter sauce. We were both surprised at how delicious the vanilla was in the butter. The lobster was served over some lightly wilted greens and clover sprouts, which were a lovely accompaniment. We found ourselves pleasantly satisfied, as the meal had a delightful richness to it.

Dessert is not too common in Comoros but they do enjoy fresh fruit, especially jackfruit. Jackfruit is a tropical fruit, known as the largest tree-borne fruit, weighing as much as 80 pounds (36 kg).  I couldn’t find any fresh jackfruit but we did find it in a jar. We mixed it with apples, bananas, oranges and melon. A light sauce was made from cinnamon and vanilla, which accentuated the fruity flavors.

All in all, we were very happy to have journeyed to Comoros.

I leave you this week with a few proverbs from Comoros:
You can win a woman with lies but you cannot feed her with lies.
If you live in the river you should make friends with the crocodile.
A chicken with beautiful plumage does not sit in a corner.
A fool and water will go the way they are diverted.

Until next week,
Warmest regard,
Darlene

Brunei Darussalam is a tiny country located on the northwest coast of the Island of Borneo. She has two separate territories neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia and also borders the South China Sea. It is a common misconception to assume this country is in the Middle East, rather than Southeast Asia.

It is said that back in the the late 1300’s, a group of fourteen brothers, in search of a new place to live, landed at Burit on the Brunei River. The brothers found the place beautifully surrounded by lush vegetation, rolling hills and rivers, abundant with fish. When they realized what they had discovered, they shouted “Baru Nah”, meaning “That’s it” and thereafter this land was known as Brunei. It is also believed Darussalam known as the “Adobe of Peace”, was named by the third Sultan of Brunei.

An absolute monarchy (one of only seven in the world), is run by Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah Ibni Al-Marhum Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Sa’adul Khari Waddien, the 29th Sultan of Brunei. (His friends call him Hassanal.) He is also the first and incumbent Prime Minister of Brunei. He is the only Sultan that has reigned since gaining full independence from Britain in 1984, although the family has ruled here for 600 years. An absolute monarch has absolute power among the people. The current Sultan is considered to be one of the richest men in the world.

Brunei is rich in oil and liquid natural gas, having one of the highest GDP in the world and no debt. The citizens are rewarded with free healthcare, education and pensions. Even housing and cars are subsidized here.

The Sultan’s 300 acre palace, named Istana Nurrel Iman, meaning “Palace of the Light of Faith”; is a combination of Persian and Arabic. The Palace, built with Brunei and Malay influences, has golden domes and vaulted roofs and cost 1.4 billion US dollars to build. It has 1788 rooms, 257 bathrooms, a banquet hall to accommodate up to 5000 guests, a mosque to serve 1500, a 110 car garage, and air-conditioned stable to house the Sultan’s 200 polo ponies and 5 swimming pools. With its 2,152,782 square feet of floor space, it is in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest private palace in the world. He owns over 9000 cars, 17 planes including an airbus, a custom designed 747, as well as a private zoo and a golf course. The Sultan opens up the doors to his private residence for a three day period during the annual Islamic festival which marks the end of Ramadan. Guests receive gifts of food and green packets, containing money, are given to children who visit during this event.

The people of this small country are mostly Malay, with a small minority of Chinese, Indians and some Indigenous tribes. The official language is Malay, although English is also widely used especially in trade and business. The Chinese citizens there still speak Chinese. The country’s religion is Islam, and the country takes it very seriously. They recently enacted Sharia, an Islamic law. Sharia is a moral and religious law, largely identified with Islam. Sharia law is controversial to say the least, addressing topics such as sexual intercourse, hygiene, diet (pork and alcohol are forbidden), prayer, everyday etiquette and fasting. The countries that have enacted Sharia (including Brunei) use flogging, amputations and stoning as legal punishments, prescribing the death penalty by stoning for homosexual acts, adultery and rape. As Sharia differs from secular law, there is ongoing controversy as to whether Sharia is compatible with democracy, freedom of thought and women’s rights. It is also said that the Sultan and his family members do not abide by this law and it is rumored that flagrant sexual affairs, often with underage girls and orgies run rampant in their palaces. But to speak badly of the Sultan or to critique how they spend money, is a punishable crime.

Brunei is known for her raw, unspoiled nature. The government has acted to conserve huge parts of the country for national parks and is home to some of the finest in Asia. Pristine rainforests, mangroves and coral reefs are easily accessible from the capital Bandar Seri Begawan. Visitors take pleasure in a longboat ride down a winding jungle river, surrounded by rainforest and wildlife. A walk on the shores under the vast rainforest canopy will unfold an abundance of birds, plants and animals, such as the entertaining Bornean proboscis monkey. Brunei is known to be one the best places on the planet for macro photography.

Blessed with a tropical climate and shielded from natural disasters, Brunei has many exotic fruits, vegetables and spices. Game animals in rural areas, such as, sambar deer and barking deer, are commonly hunted as a food source. Wild birds are eaten there as well. The cuisine is heavily influenced by the neighbors Malaysia and Indonesia, with additional influences from India, Thailand, China and Japan. Fish and rice are their staple foods and they like it spicy; usually adding hot chilies to their dishes. Flavors like shrimp paste, galangal, turmeric and lemongrass infuse a delightful richness to their cuisine. A dish peculiar to Brunei is called “ambuyat.” It is a sticky ball of sago starch which is wrapped around a bamboo fork and dipped into a sour fruit sauce.

As I started my search for the recipes to make our Bruneian meal, I was struck by the complexity and number of ingredients in them. It would likely be one of my biggest culinary challenges to date but I was ready. I couldn't wait for those exotic Asian flavors that as yet, we haven't experienced on our journey.
So let’s eat:

The Menu

Appetizer
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce

Main Course
Prawn and Petai Sambal (Shrimp and Green Beans) Served with Khao Man (Coconut Rice)

Hot, Sweet and Sour Pickles

Dessert

Sticky Rice with Mangoes

We set the table with the Bruneian colors; yellow, black, white and red. We used chopsticks for utensils, after all this is Southeast Asia. Since alcohol is forbidden in Brunei, the meal was served with a pineapple and mango tropical fruit juice.

We began with our appetizer, the chicken satay and peanut sauce. Although Brunei cannot claim satay as their own, it is loved all over the country. The chicken thighs were marinated in a complex mix of exotic ingredients overnight. The result, after grilling, was absolute heaven on earth. The warm and tender, moist chicken, dipped in peanut sauce, was beyond belief.

The hot, sweet and sour pickles were made of pineapple, cucumber and carrots. The dressing was an awesome combination of robust flavors. This dish is commonly found on tables as a condiment or side dish. We ate it with both the satay and the main dish and savored every bite.

The main dish was shrimp and green beans. In Brunei, it is made with a green bean called petai, which is a large bean and only the seed of the bean is used after the pod is removed. However, I could not find this exotic bean. So I made our dish with fresh, organic green beans from our garden and cut them on the diagonal. This dish was simple to make, cooked up quickly and was delectable. The shrimp were cooked perfectly and served over delicious coconut rice. The tamarind paste added an awesome sourness to the dish and the sugar and sesame oil provided a lovely rich and complex sweetness.

For dessert we laid fresh mango slices over coconut rice and smothered this with an amazing warm, coconut cream; a perfect ending to our amazing journey to Brunei.

As we say goodbye, here are a few points of etiquette to be aware of, should you visit this rich, little country. Public displays of affection are considered rude and if it is with someone of the opposite sex and they happen to be Muslim, it could land you in jail to be prosecuted by an Islamic court. If someone offers you food, be polite and always accept it with your right hand (the left is considered unclean.) Take small bites and never eat while walking. Do not sit with your legs stretched out in front of you, don’t lean on a table and don’t pat or touch anyone on the head that is a sign of disrespect. If you want to get someone’s attention, use all four fingers of the right hand, palm facing downward, never use your forefinger. People there are considered friendly however with rare exception, are not likely to invite you into their home. Dress conservatively, be discreet and polite.

Although I find the Sharia law that the Sultan recently enacted, to be a huge step backwards for this country (even creating protests in front of the Beverly Hills Hotel, owned by the Sultan), I must say their complex cuisine and rich flavors are a counterpoint to be commended. With that, I will say “Makan Makan!” in Malay, meaning “Eat Eat.” The food of Brunei is truly divine!

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene