Search Results for: Iraq

The “Cradle of Civilization” is how the country of Iraq is referred. The area between the two ancient rivers, the Tigris and the Euphrates, which meander through the country, have nurtured its people for ages. The name given this area for centuries was Mesopotamia. The word means, “between the two rivers.” Iraq, in Arabic means, “deep rooted or “the fertile.” There are many theories on how the country came to be named Iraq, but it is not known for certain.

Iraq shares borders with many countries: Kuwait and Saudi Arabia to the south, Jordan to the west, Syria to the northwest, Turkey to the north and Iran to the east. It also has a very small, yet important, coastline along the Persian Gulf. The capital city, is the ancient city of Baghdad that dates back to the Mesopotamian era.

The area called Sumer, situated in the south of Mesopotamia, was one of the earliest known civilizations in the world, dating back to 5000 BC. Tablets found in ruins left by these ancient people show recipes prepared in the temples during religious festivals. In reality, these are believed to be the first ever cookbooks in the world. Iraq is known as the birthplace of writing.

Iraq also gets credit for developing the wheel, the 360 degree circle, the 60-second minute, the 60-minute hour and the first accurate calendar. Baghdad became the capital of the great Islamic empire in 762 AD. Ruled by the Abbasid Dynasty, the kingdom was built in a perfect circle on the Babylonian ruins. Jabir Ibn Haiyan, a doctor and alchemist in Iraq during the Middle Ages, is considered to be the founder of chemistry. It is also believed that Noah’s ark was built in Iraq and Iraq was also the home of the Garden of Eden.

The main ethnic groups in Iraq are Arabs, Kurds, Turkomans and Assyrians. The official language is Arabic and Kurdish however languages such as Assyrian, Armenian, Neo-Aramaic and Azeri are spoken by the minorities. The majority of the population is Shiite Muslim, followed by Sunnis and Christians.

Iraq was part of many empires over its long history, the most recent being the Ottoman Empire. All of this history has contributed to the culture of the country. At the end of World War I and the collapse of the empire, the British took over as part of the League of Nations mandate. It is most unfortunate that more care was not taken by the Europeans to draw the lines in the Middle East regarding ethnicity and religion. The result of which has been much the same as in Africa; way too much bloodshed! Iraq gained independence in 1932 and became the Kingdom of Iraq in 1933. A republic was established in 1958 following a coup d’état. It was 1979 when Iraq was controlled by Saddam Hussein, a member of the Ba’ath Party, who may be considered the most ruthless dictator of the century. Saddam was responsible for gassing his own people, during the Iran-Iraq war, invading Kuwait, which resulted in the Gulf war, and was later accused of having weapons of mass destruction. This accusation ended up being false, but it did end his brutal dictatorship shortly after the American and British invasion. The USA’s and Britain’s decision to invade Iraq and remove Saddam from power was not supported by much of the rest of the world. The result has been costly, not only for the US and Britain in lost lives and billions of dollars, but especially for the people of Iraq. Today Iraq is in civil war, a crossroads perhaps like it has never seen before. Much of the country’s infrastructure has been destroyed due to countless years of war.

Iraq has the second largest oil reserves, after Saudi Arabia. This makes Iraq a very desirable area. The Kurds who may be the ones that suffered the most from the brutality of the Saddam regime were given an autonomous area in Northern Iraq called Kurdistan, as part of the new Iraqi constitution in 2005. They control some oil, and have been responsible most recently for fighting the terrorist organization ISIS/ISIL, who has claimed a rather large chunk of the country as their Islamic State. It is the Kurds’ hope to become an independent state however, it is complicated, as they also occupy land in Iran, Syria and Turkey.

As we look into the cuisine of this country, one can only imagine the importance of a family meal in times of war and occupation. Many Iraqis have fled, yet many remain. Their cuisine has been influenced by all the empires that came before and yet has maintained some ancient recipes found in those first known cookbooks. The cuisine is a fusion of Middle Eastern cuisine and Persian cuisine.

So let’s enjoy an Iraqi meal:

The Menu
Starter
Potato Kubbi (Potato Chap)

Soup
Kubba (Turnip Soup)

Main
Masgouf (Grilled Fish)

Served with Summag Salad (Sumac Salad)

Dessert
Kleicha (Date Cookies) served with Chai Black Tea

As we sit down to enjoy our Iraqi meal, we begin with “Bel Hana Wel Shefa” which means, “Bon Appétit” in Arabic. We decorated with roses, which are the national flower and dates, as Iraq is one of the top three date producers in the world. A lion represents their national animal and their coat of arms, a golden eagle, decorated the candle. In Iraq, many families have dining tables, however the floor is also used. If invited to an Iraqi home for a meal, you should arrive on time and bring a small gift of chocolates or sweets. You will enjoy your meal with members of the same sex, although women will be with the children of both sexes. If eating with utensils, eat continental style or if no utensils are offered, use only your right hand.

We begin the meal with the potato chap called kibbi. These are lovely little morsels that are made with mashed potato and filled with seasoned minced meat, either beef or lamb. They are then dipped in bread crumbs and fried; a meat and potato lover’s dream! This recipe can also be made for a main course as a casserole that is baked instead of fried, for a healthier version. We loved the fried kibbi to begin our Iraqi meal.

A few of these treats were kept aside for use in the next course which was a turnip soup. I don’t think I have ever knowingly eaten a turnip before. It is much like a potato with a kick of a horseradish flavor. Many recipes call for a kibbe or kibbi, made from semolina and rice. However, the ones we made with potato worked out perfectly and were a great addition to the soup course. The soup is very tangy thanks to the lemon. Soups and stews of all types are loved throughout the country and considered comfort foods.

For the main course we enjoyed the national dish, called Masgouf. It is a whole, grilled fish that typically would be carp or bream in Iraq. I used trout as a substitute and it was fantastic. The rivers there provide the fish used for this lovely meal. The recipe is so simple, yet so flavorful; just a marinade of turmeric, tomato and salt.

The main course was served with a typical Arabic salad, consisting of tomatoes, cucumber and red onion with parsley and mint. However sumac is added to make this a little different. Sumac is indigenous to the Middle East and different from the berry you may find in your backyard in North America. Some types are poisonous, so obviously use caution and buy from a reputable source. This little, dark reddish/purple berry is dried and ground. The flavor provides a lemony tang to meats, vegetables and to this wonderful salad. Its deep color also provides a beautiful garnish. Aside from its unique flavor, it is very healthful; as an antioxidant, as a “bad” cholesterol fighter, as a “good” cholesterol enhancer and is also known for lowering glucose levels.

For dessert we had the national cookie, called Kleicha. These cookies/pastries were served with a cup of hot, black tea (chai) and wow, what an ending to our Iraqi meal. These delicious treats are sort of like a buttery, puff pastry, stuffed with a sweet date filling and lightly seasoned with cardamom and fennel seeds. They reminded me of the Armenian dessert called nazook, which was certainly one of my all-time favorites. Needless to say, these were winners!

As we end our Iraqi meal we say, “Aa Kaina Jayedan” which means “We ate well!”

We hope that somehow Iraq can be freed from the radical Islamic group (ISIS) causing death and destruction, that the civil war will end, and a unified people can call Iraq home again and finally live in peace.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

How did Syria get its name?

It is believed the name Syria comes from the Ancient Greek, Seirios, meaning, “sun-bright, glowing, blazing, and shining.”  In Latin “Sirius” was used to indicate people from Syria and also for the brightest star in the night sky.  Officially today, it is known as the Syrian Arab Republic.

Where is Syria located?

Syria is a middle eastern country and part of southwestern Asia.  It lies on the eastern shore of the Mediterranean Sea.  Its area includes territory in the Golan Heights, which has been occupied by Israel since 1967.  Its neighbors are Turkey to the north, Iraq to the east, Jordan, Israel and Lebanon to the south and west. The capital city is Damascus. 

A brief history of Syria

Syria is thought to be one of the original and oldest civilizations on earth and  believed to be part of the Fertile Crescent, where the earliest people practiced cattle breeding and agriculture.  Archeologists have uncovered skulls and bones of Neanderthals that date back roughly 700,000 years.  Historically, the name Syria, referred to a much wider region than its borders of today. It was known as al-Sham in Arabic, which included: Jordan, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine and much of Turkey and of course modern day Syria.  

Ebla, a city is Syria, is one of the oldest settlements to be excavated and dates back to around 3000 BC.  Throughout ancient times, Syria was occupied and ruled by several empires, including the Egyptians, Hittites, Sumerians, Mitanni, Assyrians, Babylonian, Canaanites, Phoenicians, Arameans, Amorites, Persians, Greeks and Romans.

Ancient Syria was a region often referred to in the bible.  Probably the most well-known account is when the apostle Paul cited “The Road to Damascus,” where his visions led to his conversion to Christianity.  When the Roman Empire fell, Syria became part of the Byzantine Empire.  In 637 A.D., Muslim armies defeated the empire and took control of Syria.  Damascus became the capital of the Islamic world. Then, around 750 A.D., it was replaced by Baghdad, in Iraq.

In 1516 the Ottoman Empire conquered Syria and remained in power for just shy of 400 years.  During World War I, the French and British agreed to divide the Ottoman Empire into zones.  In 1918, British and Arab forces took Damascus and Aleppo.  The French took control of modern-day Syria and Lebanon in 1920, ending the Ottomans’ rule.

After World War II, Syria officially became independent, in 1946.  Unfortunately, the years following, she suffered instability and repeated coups.  For a brief time, in 1958, Syria joined with Egypt and became the United Arab Republic, but that was short lived, ending in 1961.

It was 1963 when the Arab Socialist Baath Party seized power in a coup known as the Baath Revolution.  Syria lost its territory known as Golan Heights, during the Six Day War with Israel in 1967, a conflict which remains over the area to this day.

In 1970, Hafez al-Assad overthrew the de-facto leader of Syria and remained in power as President until his death in 2000.  Many hostilities and conflicts erupted throughout the years with Lebanon and Israel.  When Hafez died in 2000, his son Bashar became president, after amending the constitution.  He was only 34 at the time, not 40, as was required.  There was hope that Bashar would grant more freedom and be less oppressive than his father.  However, human rights groups have reported that Bashar has regularly tortured, imprisoned and killed political adversaries throughout his tenure.

In March of 2011, a group of teens and children were arrested and tortured for writing anti-government graffiti that was inspired by the Arab Spring Rebellion.  Protests erupted and became widespread and are considered to be the beginning of Syria’s horrific civil war, which remains ongoing today. 

The Civil war in Syria is complicated with many moving parts.  Assad began fighting the rebels, ISIS joined the fight against the regime, the United States backed the rebels to some degree, however, that in turn put them on the same side as ISIS.  Russia was involved as well and was supposed to ensure that Syria no longer had chemical weapons, which were used on their own people.  The numbers are not certain, but hundreds of thousands of Syrians are dead and millions have been displaced or are refugees in neighboring countries and Europe.  Syria remains a humanitarian disaster in a civil war today.

Syrian Culture

Syria, with such a long cultural history, is a traditional society.  Family, religion, education, self-discipline and respect are the characteristics they cherish.  The majority of Syria is Sunni Muslim, about 74%, with 13% being Shi’a.  Christians make up about ten per cent, with the remaining being Druze, Jews and atheists.  Syria has a history of religious tolerance with cities featuring Jewish synagogues, Christian churches and some of the world’s oldest and most sacred mosques.

The majority of Syrians are ethnically Arabs, and the official language is Arabic.  Kurds and Armenians make up the balance, as do their respective languages.  French and English are taught in schools.  The literacy rate in Syria was 81%, prior to the conflict.

Syria, being part of antiquity, has many historical treasures and entire ancient cities are part of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  There has been much anguish during this most recent civil war as many of these treasures have been damaged or destroyed.  Diaspora women are taking the lead to try to preserve as much as possible of this most important part of their heritage.

In peaceful times, Syria is known for its festivals, like the Silk Road Festival, which harkens back to the days when Syria was an important trade route between the East and the West.  Both Muslim and Christian holidays are recognized.  Dance, music, literature, poetry and architecture all have important roots and history in Syria.  One of the most popular dances in Syria is the Dabkeh;  a folk dance performed at weddings and other joyous occasions.  Another popular dance is the Arada, a dance performed with swords.

Syrian Cuisine

Syrian cuisine, like its culture, has a rich and ancient history.  Many of the dishes are shared with its neighbors.  Having gone through various conquests by the Arabs, Persians and Ottoman Turks, the traditional food in Syria is similar to other cuisines like the Levant, Lebanese and Middle-Eastern cuisines.  It is, however, known for some important spices like, the Aleppo pepper, which is indigenous there.  

Kibbeh Bil Sanieh is considered to be the national dish and is made with bulgur and lamb.  Stuffed vegetables, with meat, nuts and rice, come in all kinds of forms, from grape leaves to peppers.  Kebabs or grilled meats, are also a popular Syrian dish.  Nuts, like walnuts, pine nuts and pistachios are used in many of their dips and sweet treats.  Eggplant, zucchini, cabbage, tomatoes and cucumbers are popular vegetables.  Many of their dishes are served with a yogurt dip.

Syria is also known for appetizers called mezze.  These small dishes are served with Arabic bread before the main course and then followed by coffee and sweet treats.  Fruits, like pomegranate, and citrus, are also very popular.

So let’s enjoy a Syrian meal:

The Menu

 First Course

Muhammara (Hot Pepper Dip)

Served with Syrian Flat Bread  

Main Course

 Kibbeh Bil Sanieh (Baked Lamb and Bulger Pie)

Dessert

H’risseh (Semolina Nut Cake)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red, black white and green.  We decorated with pomegranate and citrus, as well as cotton and wheat, as they are important crops to Syria.  Olives were placed to represent the most ancient agricultural product in Syria.  Jasmine, which is the national flower, was placed. (Damascus, the capital city, is also known as the “City of Jasmine.”)

We began with a popular mezze dish, called muhammara.  A spicy red pepper dip was made with Aleppo pepper, walnuts, lemon juice and my favorite, pomegranate molasses.  This complex dip is spectacular and we savored it on freshly made Syrian pita bread.

For the main course, we loved the national dish called, Kibbeh Bil Sanieh.  This is a true comfort dish, somewhat similar to a meatloaf but with a much more delicious flavor.  We thoroughly enjoyed this lamb dish alongside a simple yogurt sauce. 

For dessert, we devoured the regional dessert made famous in the small town of Nabak, not far from Damascus on the way to Aleppo, that is known for its h’risseh.  The name for this delicious semolina nut cake might be a bit confusing, as it also describes a Lebanese savory dish.  However, in Syria there is no mistaking the name.  We enjoyed every bite of this sweet, nut covered cake alongside a cup of coffee which, would be traditional there.

As we say goodbye to Syria I do so with a prayer that this nation will end its bloody civil war and somehow find its way to peace.  I am thrilled that my nephew has fallen in love with a beautiful Syrian woman named Rana, who will soon become part of my extended family.  I can’t wait to cook many more Syrian dishes with her.  

Until next time,

Be safe.

Darlene

How did Saudi Arabia get its name?

Saudi Arabia is the only country in the world named after a family.  The Al-Sauds have traced their origins back to the 1700s, when Saud bin Mohammad ruled as a local sheikh on the central Arabian peninsula.  The official name is the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Where is Saudi Arabia Located?

Saudi Arabia is located in the Middle East.  It is a desert country that encompasses most of Arabian peninsula. It is large, about 830,000 square miles, and is the 13^th largest country in the world.  It has two coastlines, with a total length of 1640 miles; the Red Sea and the Persian or (Arabian) gulf coastlines.

It has many neighbors: Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south.  It is separated from Israel and Egypt by the Gulf of Aqaba.

Despite most of the land being an uninhabited desert, which includes the world’s largest contiguous sand desert, called the Empty Quarter, it also has hills and mountains in the west and southwest along the Red Sea.  The highest peak is Jabal Sawda which rises 9,843 feet above sea level. The country has no natural lakes or rivers.

Riyadh is the capital and home to more than 8 million people, making it the most populous city in the country.  It is located in the center of the Arabian peninsula on a large plateau.

A Brief History of Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia can trace its roots back to the earliest civilizations of the Arabian peninsula.  Over the centuries, it played an important role in trade but it is best known as the birthplace of Islam; the world’s second largest religion after Christianity.  Prior to the 7^th century, most of Saudi Arabia was inhabited by nomadic tribes.  It was Muhammad, the prophet of Islam, who was born in Mecca that united many of these tribes.  After his death in 632, his Arab followers began to expand the area of Muslim rule well beyond Arabia.

In the 16^th century, the Ottoman Empire took over, taking control of both coasts along the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf.  It was in the 18^th century when the House of Saud began to emerge as a power.  Muhammad bin Saud started the dynasty along with Muhammad ibn Adb-dl-Wahhad, a religious leader and the founder of the Wahhabi movement.  They stayed in power until the Ottomans regained control in 1818.  This alliance, formed in the 18^th century, provided the ideological impetus to Saudi expansion and remains the basis of the dynastic rule today.  At this time, another family, the Al Rashid, also came into power.  In 1902, Abul-Aziz bin Saud returned from exile in Kuwait and seized Riyadh, ousting the Al Rashid and uniting the kingdom.

Saudi Arabia became an independent nation after the Ottoman Empire was defeated in World War I.  Abdul-Aziz bin Saud regained power.  In 1932 the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was established with Abdul-Aziz as king.  He set up Saudi Arabia as an absolute monarchy and has remained in power with six of his sons in succession, poised to reign over the kingdom. The king of Saudi Arabia is also known as the custodian of the Two Holy Mosques.  Saudi Arabia is home to Islam’s holiest shrines in Mecca; one where the prophet Muhammad was born and Medina, where he was buried.

Saudi Arabia struck oil in 1938 and by 1949 was in full production.  This began under the US-controlled Aramco (Arabian American Oil Company.)  The discovery of oil reserves made Saudi Arabia one of the richest nations in the world.  They are the world’s largest oil producer and exporter of oil, controlling the world’s second largest oil reserves, and the sixth largest gas reserves.

In February 1945, King Abdul Aziz met with President Franklin D. Roosevelt aboard the USS Quincy in the Suez Canal.  A historic handshake, agreeing to supply the US with oil in exchange for guaranteed protection to the Saudi regime, is still in force to this day.  This agreement has survived seven Saudi Kings and twelve US presidents.

In 1960 Saudi Arabia became a founding member of OPEC (Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries.)  In 1973, Saudi Arabia led an oil boycott against western countries that supported Israel during the October, Yom Kipur War with Egypt and Syria.  Oil prices quadrupled.  In 1980, Saudi Arabia took full control of Aramco from the US.

In 1994 the Islamic dissident, Osama Bin Laden, was stripped of his Saudi nationality and started the terror group known as Al-Qaeda in Afghanistan.  On September 11, 2001 they staged the worst terror attack ever committed on US soil.  Planes were purposely flown into the World Trade Center in New York and the Pentagon in Washington, D.C.  Fifteen of the nineteen hijackers involved in the attack were Saudi nationals.

In 2011, the whole area in the Middle East was dealing with unrest, known as the Arab Spring.  In an effort to keep the unrest at bay, King Abdullah announced increased welfare spending and more rights for women, including the right to vote and to run in municipal elections.  This made Saudi Arabia the last country in the world to give women the right to vote.

The current leader is King Salman, however, his son, Prince Mohammad bin Salman, who is next in line to the throne, is believed to be the driving force behind Saudi reforms.  He has recently allowed women the right to get a driver’s license, and has allowed the return of public cinema.  However, the world was recently horrified over the killing and dismemberment of a reporter named Jamal Khashoggi, that occurred in the Saudi consulate in Turkey.  There has been an international outcry as a result and we are waiting to see what happens next.

The Saudis have also been funding a war in nearby Yemen.  Saudi Arabia is supporting the coalition (which is also supported by other nations, including the United States of America,) in fighting the Houthi rebels, which, since 2015, has resulted in a horrific civil war.  Yemen remains in the middle of a humanitarian catastrophe, yet it has been dubbed the forgotten war.

Saudi Arabian Culture

Saudi Arabia has a population of about 33 million people.  Its primary ethnic group is Arab and the main religion is Sunni Islam.  The country’s currency is the Riyal, which is tied to the US dollar.  The official language is Arabic.

The rich culture of Saudi Arabia takes its cues from its Islamic heritage.  Its historical role is as an ancient trade center and it upholds its Bedouin traditions.  The country is run by Sharia law and all of its holidays are based on the Islamic religion.

The highlights of the year are the holy month of Ramadan, a time in which they fast from dusk till dawn and which ends with the Eid-Al-Fitr, a holiday where families and friends exchange gifts.  Additionally, the hajj (pilgrimage) season, culminates with Eid-Al-Adha, when families slaughter a sheep in memory of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son, and then they share the meat with the poor.  The hajj is a mandatory, religious duty for all Muslims to visit the holiest city of Mecca.  This must be carried out once in their lifetime.  The pilgrimage is considered to be one of the five pillars of Islam.

The country is 100% Muslim, except for the foreigners who are brought there for work, which accounts for some 9 million people.  There is no freedom of religion.  The Islamic teachings and Arab customs are taught in schools at an early age.

As the birthplace of Islam, the Kingdom places a special emphasis on preserving its Islamic archeological heritage.  The two most important sites are the Holy Mosque in Mecca and the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina.   Minarets are the most visible, man-made, structures in Saudi Arabia.  They jut from the skyline of every urban center.  The minarets are meant to be a Muslim society’s bond with God.  The reason they rise above all other structures is to allow the call to prayer to be heard, which occurs five times per day.

Poetry, folk music and dancing are a living piece of the country’s history, which has been shaped by the nomadic Bedouins for centuries.  The national dance is the men’s sword dance, known as the Ardha.  Men carrying swords stand in two lines or in a circle, with a poet singing in their midst, while they perform the traditional dance.

Saudis prefer traditional clothes to western styles.  The loose flowing, traditional garments are practical for the Kingdom’s hot and windy climate, as well as in keeping with the Islamic ideal of modesty.  Men wear a typical white, ankle length shirt called a thawb.  On their heads they wear a large square of cotton that is folded over a skull cap and held in place with a cord.  Women customarily wear a black outer cloak, called an abaya, over their dress, which very likely is modern.  On their heads they wear a black, gauzy scarf that is wrapped around the head and called a shayla.  Some women wear veils made of sheer material, which has been a tradition even before the advent of Islam.  The thin veil provides protection from constant exposure to the sun.  Today, a veil is also a sign of modesty and virtue.  Jewelry has also been part of the Arabian dress for thousands of years.

Saudi Arabian Cuisine

Nearly all types of cuisines, including fast foods, are available in this wealthy nation, but the Saudis prefer traditional foods.  Also, despite the area only receiving about 4 inches of rain per year, they have managed to become food independent, and have developed a strong agriculture sector, producing all their own dairy and vegetables. They have built very deep wells and desalinization plants to provide for an ample water supply.

As Saudi Arabia is an Islamic state, pork and alcohol are forbidden.  Animals must be butchered according to Islamic law and blessed before they are eaten.  Saudi Arabia is the largest importer of live sheep and ranks as the highest consumer of broiler chickens.  Lamb is traditionally served to honored guests and for special occasions.  Camel is also consumed, as is its milk, which has long been a staple of the Bedouin diet.  The largest camel market in the world, selling a 100 head of camel a day, can be found in the capital city of Riyadh.  Yogurt is used in sauces, eaten alone and made into a drink called lassi.

The main ingredients in their diet are fava beans, wheat, rice, yogurt and of course dates.  Saudi Arabia has over 18 million date palms that produce 600 million pounds of dates each year.  Flat breads, called fatir or kimaje, which are similar to a pita, are used as utensils to scoop up their meal.  Thick soups are popular, as are stuffed vegetables, bean salads and tabbouleh, a salad made with bulgur wheat.

Often times, dates, dried fruits and nuts, along with sweet tea, are served as appetizers or snacks and sweet desserts are enjoyed at the end of meal.  Coffee, called gawha, is a centuries old tradition and served in tiny coffee cups.  It is considered very rude to refuse a cup of coffee and it should always be enjoyed in odd numbers.  Coffee houses are gathering spots for many Saudi men.

Spices such as cardamom, saffron, cumin, coriander, cinnamon and cloves are all prevalent in Saudi cuisine.   They also enjoy eating foods with a serving of a super spicy sauce, called shattah.

So let’s enjoy a Saudi Arabian meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Akkawi Manakeesh (Arabic Cheese Bread with Nigella Seeds)

Main Course

Al Kabsa (Spiced Rice and Chicken)

Served with

Shattah (Spicy Hot Sauce)

Dessert

Ma’amul (Short Biscuits, Stuffed with Dates and Nuts)

We set the scene by placing a rug on the floor, as it is tradition to eat on the floor in a cross-legged position.  To decorate, we added palm fronds, dates and a sword, to represent the fight of Abd-al-Aziz.  A traditional coffee pot, along with a calligraphy pen was added, as calligraphy is a beloved art form there that dates back some 1400 years, to the first century of Islam.  Because its primary subject matter has been the Holy Qur’an, calligraphy is considered to be the quintessential Islamic art form.  An Arabian horse figurine was also placed, as they have a long history of breeding horses there.

We began the meal with a hand washing ritual, which is customary.  We then said, “Sahtain” which basically means, “Bon appetite” and “Bismillah,” which means, “In the name of God.”  Our first course was a scrumptious little cheese bread.  It was made with a flat bread and a salty cheese called akkawi.  The cheese comes in a brine and is rinsed to remove the salt before serving.  It was topped with nigella seeds and baked in a hot oven, similar to a pizza.  I also made another version that was topped with a spice mixture  called za-atar.  We loved them both!  We ate the bread with just our right hand, which is the socially acceptable tradition there.

For the main course, we savored the national dish called Al Kabsa.  It was reminiscent of other rice dishes I have made previously from the region; such as machboos, from Bahrain or murabyan, from Kuwait.  This was a spiced rice, with chicken dish but what made this one special, was the very, spicy sauce called shittah.  The sauce was served on the side.  To me, it truly elevated the dish and I will make that spicy sauce accompaniment often.

For dessert we had a very popular Arabic cookie, called Ma’amul.  It is a bit dry, like a short biscuit, but with a lovely nut and date interior.  They were baked in a ma’amul mold, which makes a lovely decoration for the cookie.  They were then covered with powdered sugar and rose petals.  The cookies went great with a robust, little cup of Arabic coffee.

When we finished our meal, we said “Diamah,” which means “May there always be plenty at your table.”  The Saudis are known for their generous hospitality to guests and strangers.  If you ever get the opportunity to experience this hospitality, you should definitely take part.

Until next time,

Darlene

How did Qatar get its name?

The origin of the name Qatar is uncertain.  However, it dates back at least 2000 years.  A term catharrei, was used by Pliny the Elder, in the 1^st century AD to describe the inhabitants of the peninsula.  The Catara peninsula was depicted on a map by Ptolemy, in the 2^nd century AD.  The Capital City of Doha may have gotten its name from the Arabic word Ad-Dawha, meaning “the big tree”; a reference to the prominent tree that stood at the site of the original fishing village.

Where is Qatar located?

The small peninsula jets out about 525 feet north into the Persian Gulf from the Arabian Peninsula, making it a sub peninsula.  Qatar has a small land border with Saudi Arabia to the southwest and they share maritime borders with the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Iran.  Its northwest coast lies just thirty kilometers, or 19 miles from Bahrain.

Qatar is generally a barren land.  It has a dry, subtropical, desert climate, with low annual rainfall and blistering hot and humid summers.   Much of the country consists of sand dunes and salt flats, with only scattered vegetation.  There is a small range of hills in the northwest, the highest point reaching just 328 feet.  The coastline has a number of beautiful sandy beaches, the best of which lie in the north and west.  Due to the topography, Qatar is susceptible to intense sand storms.

A Brief History of Qatar

Qatar has been occupied by humans for at least 50,000 years.  Stone Age encampments and tools have been unearthed on the small sub peninsula.  It fell under the domain of numerous empires during its early years of settlement.  In 628 AD the population was introduced to Islam.  By the 8^th century it became a pearl trading center.

In 1783, Arab tribes conquered Bahrain and the Al Khalifa imposed their authority over both Bahrain and Qatar.  After a war broke out, the British installed the religious ruler, Muhammad ibn Thani-al-Thani, the head of a leading Qatari family.  In 1893, the Ottomans who expanded their Empire into the area, made incursions into Qatar.  They withdrew from the area after the beginning of World War I, in 1913.

In 1916, Qatar became a British Protectorate and Abdullah Al Thani was put into power.  The Al-Thani family has been in control of Qatar ever since.  The country is run as a constitutional monarchy.  It gained independence from Britain on September 3, 1971.  Oil was discovered in the 1940s, bringing great wealth to the country.  Oil and gas make up 85% of the GDP.  Today Qatar is one of the richest nations on earth, based on per capita GDP.  There are no taxes in Qatar and the people get free health care, education (including higher education) and a corporate tax rate of 10% as a flat tax.  Women were allowed to vote in 1999, at the same time as men.  It wasn’t until 2003 that it was put into the constitution.  Qatari women make up about ½ of the labor force, which is above the world average and among the highest in the Arab world.

In 2003, Qatar became the nerve center in the US-led military campaign in Iraq.  In 2010 Qatar won the bid to host the 2022 Fifa World Cup.  They are spending billions of dollars to get ready for it, with new hotels, buildings and infrastructure.

In recent times, there has been a diplomatic crisis due to its neighbors Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, as well as the UAE and Egypt, which have imposed an air, land and sea blockade.  They are hoping Qatar will cut its alleged connections with terrorism and distance itself from Iran.  Qatar which is known to have the best airline in the world, has to avoid these air spaces in its flight patterns.

Qatar Culture

Qatar has about 2.6 million inhabitants.  However, foreign workers, mainly from India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan and the Philippines make up 88% of the population.  Qatari nationals make up the other 12% of the population.  Its culture can be traced back to three main influences: the desert, the sea and Islam.  The desert, Bedouin culture is intrinsic to Qatari identity.  Arabic is the official language, although English is widely spoken as well.

The Arabian Peninsula is one of the last places in the world where falconry is still actively practiced.  In fact, this 5000 year old tradition was introduced by the Bedouin as an effective means of hunting.  Today the practice is a national heritage and passed down from generation to generation.  In the famous Souq Waquif there is a falcon hospital where falcons can be bought and sold for thousands of dollars.  Some birds are even issued their own passports to prevent them from being taken out of the country illegally.

Camel racing is known as the “sport of sheikhs” and is big business in Qatar, with races held on nearly every Friday.  Today the riders are robotic jockeys and some of their best camels can cost more than luxury cars.

Poetry and storytelling remains an integral part of the Bedouin culture.  Nabati poems, which are a source of local tribal pride, are regularly broadcast on Qatari TV and radio as part of their cultural heritage.  By the way, Qatar is home to Al Jazeera, a very popular news station, worldwide.

Qataris are very proud of their maritime traditions, which are based around pearl diving, fishing and boat making.  Their folk music lyrics are closely associated with the sea, describing pearl diving, the hoisting of sails and rowing.  These folk songs are normally sung together, as the traditional sailors would have sung them.  Each year there is a dhow festival that celebrates not only the boats but all aspects of the old sailors.

It is Islam, however, where most of the cultural traditions are found.  Traditional dress for example requires modesty by both males and females in the public realm.  The thobe, is a long white robe typically worn by men, along with a head covering, known as the gutra, which is held in place by a black rope called an agal.  Women wear a black robe called an abaya and a head covering called a shayla.

The Islamic month of Ramadan is widely revered in Qatar.  Fasting is required during daylight hours, so all the restaurants are closed during the day.  About 67% of the population of Qatar are Sunni Muslims with a few Shiites as well.  Islamic instruction is compulsory of Muslims in all state-sponsored schools.  Despite Islam being the state religion in Qatar, they do have freedom of association in their constitution.  Both Muslims and non-Muslims are tried under the unified court system which incorporates both secular law and Sharia law.  The Islamic holy days of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are national holidays.

Why Visit Qatar?

Doha, the capital city, is the highlight of this quickly growing nation.  It is home to a spectacular modern skyline, one of the best Museums of Islamic Art in the world, plus a fine traditional souq with a burgeoning arts and culinary scene.  Being one of the richest nations on earth, here you can find the finest of everything.

As Qatar prepares to host the FIFA 2022 world cup, they are building at a stunning rate, adding new parks, buildings, high speed rail and gigantic stadiums.  Watching the sunset over the sand dunes will make you feel as though your Arabian fairy tales have come true.  Whether you are sand dune bashing or sleeping out in the dessert with camels, experiencing an authentic Bedouin meal along with traditional music is a dream come true, and you can find it all in Qatar.

They also have a stunning waterfront promenade called the Corniche, which lies on the Doha Bay in an elegant crescent shape.  The Corniche is a beautiful place to walk and see their famous dhow boats.  The Qatari people pride themselves on their Arabian hospitality.

Qatari Cuisine

Qatar has very little arable land, so most all of their food must be imported.  The sea provides for locally caught fish, which is always plentiful and is prominent in their cuisine.  As the country has become world class, nearly every conceivable type of cuisine can be found there.  However, they pride themselves on keeping the local traditions and foods alive.  The cuisine is heavily influenced by the cultures of the peninsula, as well as India, Iran, the Levant and North Africa.

Machbus is considered to be the national dish, as it is for its neighbor, Bahrain.  Machbus can be made with chicken, seafood, or meat.  Mutton served with yogurt is another staple, as is ghuzi, in which a whole roasted lamb is served on a bed of rice and nuts.  Goat and sheep are also very popular meats in the cuisine.  Dates are grown locally and are often served with a cup of Kazak tea or coffee as a means of showing their hospitality.  Pork and alcohol are forbidden in Qatar, unless served in an international hotel. The best places to experience an authentic Qatari meal are in Souq Waqif or Katara.

So let’s enjoy a Qatari meal:

The Menu

Starter

Warak Enab (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Main Course

Harees (Beaten Wheat and Chicken)

Khubz Arabi (Arabian Bread)

Dessert

Esh Asaraya (Sweet Bread with Cream)

Served with Karak Tea (Spiced Tea with Milk)

We set our table with a small carpet, placed on the floor, with cushions.  It is customary to sit on the floor in a cross legged position to eat a traditional Qatari meal and to use only the right hand.  It is believed that eating in this sitting position, aids digestion, and the movement of reaching for the food and going back to a straight posture, helps with arthritis.

We decorated with a statue of an oryx, their national animal that lives in the desert there.  A picture of a falcon  was placed to signify their national bird.  Dates were added, as they are the national fruit, along with pearls to represent their pearl diving heritage and a little can of oil, to symbolize their great wealth.

Our first course was stuffed grape leaf bundles, filled with sweet, lamb meat, herbs and spices.  With one bite we were immediately transported to the region.  Stuffed grape leaves are a loved tradition in many of the countries surrounding Qatar.

For the main course, we had harees, which is a hearty, beaten wheat and chicken dish, quite similar to the dish we had for Oman, called madrouba, (which was a beaten rice and chicken dish.)  The harees are seasoned with ghee and toasted coriander.  It is a true comfort food and each heavenly bite was scooped up with the Khubz Arabi (Arabian bread).

For dessert we enjoyed the sweet bread and cream dish called esh asaraya.  It was topped with pistachios and was a lovely, sweet end to our Qatari meal.  We enjoyed our dessert with their Karak tea; milk tea with a hint of cardamom; a true delight.  Coffee and tea are always served to guests in Qatar and when you are finished, you simply shake you cup from side to side to let the hostess know you are satisfied.

As we say goodbye to this little nation of Qatar, I leave you with a quote from their tourism board.

Qatar

“A land that understands, a traveler can never be a stranger, just a friend not yet met.  That ultimately everyone is on their own journey, seeking the warmth of a friendly embrace, unique experiences, new stories to share.  Where a meal is not a meal unless it is shared.  A land rooted in ancient cultures, authentic soul, where past learning informs contemporary vision.  Progressive spirit ignites new futures.  A land offering enlightenment, invigoration and inspiration through its warmth of soul and spirit of vision.”

Until next time,

Shukran (That’s “thank you”, in Arabic)

Darlene

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

Please note that this page may contain affiliate links in which I will earn a small commission however, it will in no way affect the price you pay. I thank you for your support!

How Oman was named remains a bit of a mystery.  The area was called Mazoon, which stems from the word muzn, which means, “heavy clouds which carry abundant water.”  The name Oman is thought to originate from the Arab tribes who migrated there from the Uman region of Yemen.

Oman is the oldest, independent state in the Arab world.  The official name is, The Sultanate of Oman and it is one of the few countries in the world that is run as an absolute monarchy.  The Sultan, Qaboos bin Said al Said, has been the leader of Oman since 1970.  He is the longest serving leader in the Middle East and the fourth, longest reigning monarch in the world.

Oman is strategically located at the mouth of the Persian Gulf.  Its neighbors are: United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west and Yemen to the southwest.  It also has two exclaves, territories called the Madha and the Musandam, which are surrounded by the United Arab Emirates, on their land borders and with the Strait of Hormuz and Gulf of Oman, forming their coastal boundaries.  Oman shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan.  The coastal border is the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman, on the northeast.  It is made up of towering mountain ranges, vast deserts and about 2000 miles of coastline.

Oman has a fascinating history, as the area was a key place for trade for thousands of years.  Recent discoveries in Oman have shown pre-historic, human habitation dating back over 125,000 years.  Some stone tools found, resemble those made by humans in Africa, during the same time period.  Oman is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  A couple of these sites date back some 5000 years.  They are called tombs but possibly could have been silos, as no human remains have been found.  They are made of stone and shaped like a bee hive.  There is a sense that there is much more yet to be discovered in the mountains of Oman.

Ancient civilizations traversed through the deserts of the Middle East to Mesopotamia (Iran and Iraq).  The camel caravans would carry incense, an extremely important product of antiquity.  Oman is one of the few places in the world where frankincense trees grow.  The Land of Frankincense is one of the world heritage sites.  Additionally, ships carried copper and other various minerals by sea.  Omanis often get credit for being some of the best shipbuilders in the world.

Due to its strategic location, the region was impacted by several invaders.  These included, other Arab tribes, Portugal and Britain.  Oman at one time even had its own colony, which included the island of Zanzibar, off the east coast of Africa and was the place where Oman became wealthy from the slave trade.  Oman also has oil wealth and reserves which it began exporting in 1967.  It has tried to have a diverse economy that is not solely based on oil and gas.  The economy has focused on tourism, fishing, mining and agriculture.  The main crops grown in Oman are dates, limes, tomatoes, eggplant, bananas and carrots.  Its most fertile land is found along the coast in the northeast.

Oman is a Muslim country and governed by Shari’a law.  Most of the Muslims adhere to the Ibadi sect of Islam, while the remaining are either Sunni or Shia.  The Sultan is a member of the Ibadi community, however, the government does not give official preference to any particular religious group.  Despite being a Muslim country, they allow freedom of religion and prohibit discrimination of individuals on the basis of religion.  About five percent of the population is Christian, Hindu or Buddhists; mostly non citizen immigrant workers.  Arabic is the official language in Oman, although English is also spoken.  In the capital city of Muscat, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque was completed in 2001, built from 300,000 tons of Indian sandstone.  It has a capacity of 20,000 worshipers.  It is a popular tourist destination because of its beautiful architecture.

In the mid 20th century and up until the 1970s, Oman was basically shut off from the outside world, until the current Sultan overthrew his father in a bloodless coup.  Since that time, the country has opened up in all sorts of new ways.  Prior to 1970 Oman basically had no national infrastructure.  There were no hotels in Oman, yet today there are hundreds.  Back then, Oman had only six miles of paved roads whereas today there are over 3800 miles of paved roads.  In 1970, only three primary schools existed for just 1000 boys. Today, there are well over 500,000 kids (boys and girls) in over 1000 schools.  Education is free up until the higher education level.  Today the country has been totally transformed.

The Sultan is often called a Renaissance man, for his transformation of a nation in so little time.  Despite being run as an absolute monarchy, he is not considered a dictator.  He has developed a constitution, as well as two houses of Parliament.  A recent change in the constitution gives the lower house even more power.  The Parliament consists of both males and females from all over the country.  The Sultan is loved in his country and highly respected.  The biggest concern in Oman is who will succeed the Sultan, as he has no children of his own.  He recently spent eight months in Germany for an undisclosed medical condition.  When he returned, the country erupted in celebration.

As we look into the cuisine of this most interesting country, it is clear that they have many wonderful influences.  Located along the spice trade route, their cuisine is loaded with the best and most expensive spices like: saffron, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, to name a few.  Oman was responsible for bringing clove to the island of Zanzibar.  The main influences come from Persia, India, Asia, and East Africa along with her neighbors.

In Oman, the cuisine is regional, however, most dishes have some element of curry, cooked meat, and vegetables.  Seafood, is of course, very popular along its long, fertile coastline.  Rice is a staple. Omani cuisine is full of different biryanis and machboos, (Middle Eastern rice with meat and spices) but it also has its own unique element of beaten or mashed rice.  This is rice that is cooked a very long time along with other ingredients, like chicken, to the point where it becomes like a porridge.  Soups are also common and typically made with chicken, or lamb and vegetables.  One element in the cuisine that is quintessential Omani, is the dried lime or black lime.  The lime, which originally came from Malaysia, is dried in the sun until the shell becomes rock hard and the interior is a gummy black.  This dried lime adds an intensive, citrusy, earthy, almost fermented flavor, to many of their dishes.  It is a beloved ingredient in Persian cuisine and other Middle Eastern cuisines.  In Oman it is called loomi.

Shuwa is considered to be the national dish and requires a distinctive, underground pit.  It is a time intensive dish that usually takes a few days and is reserved for special occasions.  It is typically made with beef, lamb, goat or camel, with a mixture of spices and oil and then wrapped in banana leaves and placed in the pit.  It is served over a massive platter of rice.  It is a big production, in both the preparation and in the enjoyment of the feast.  Alcohol is available in Oman but requires a special license, proving that you are spending less than ten percent of your income on it.  Pork is strictly forbidden.

So let’s eat an Omani meal:

The Menu

Starter

Balah, Juz and Kahwa (Dates, Nuts and Coffee)

Salad

Omani  Salata (Omani Salad)

Main course

Paplou Hasa’ (Fish Soup)

Madrouba (Beaten Rice & Chicken)

served with

Khubz (Omani Thin Bread)

Dessert

Halwa (Sweet)

We set the scene with a special coffee pot called a dallah.  For this meal, we were honored to have my sister and her husband as our guests.  We began by saying, “As-salem alaykum”, which means “Peace be with you,” in Arabic.  Coffee and dates are the ultimate form of hospitality in Oman.  The hot Omani coffee is served in little cups without handles called fenjans.  The coffee is lightly roasted and ground with cardamom and often times rose water is added to the mix.  Dates are served as a sweetner for the coffee.  Your coffee will be constantly refilled until you shake your cup vigorously, signalling that you have had enough.  You will be offered coffee and dates just about everywhere you go in Oman.  We began our meal with coffee and dates, both fresh and dried, along with some nuts.  It was the first time we had ever had a fresh date and we loved the crunchy texture and sweetness.

For the dinner setting we included a rug, as sitting on the floor and eating with your right hand is how food is enjoyed by the locals in Oman.  An Arabian horse figurine was placed, since they are believed to have originated in Oman and Omanis are known to be some of the best, Arabian horse breeders in the world.  Dried limes and spices were also positioned, along with a incense burner filled with frankincense.  I don’t think I ever had the privilege of smelling frankincense before and it turned out to be a lovely, earthy scent that we all enjoyed.  Pictures of elaborate carved doors were also added, as they were one of the things I loved so much about our trip to Stonetown in Zanzibar.  (I really wanted to bring back a set of carved doors,)  I loved them, and it turns out Oman is full of them.  Even the smallest, most unassuming abode, will be graced with a spectacular entry door.

Our next course was a spicy cirtusy seafood soup called paplou.  It was made with those dried limes and fresh lime juice, which was a perfect balance to the spiciness of the broth.  There are many variations to this dish but generally speaking it will contain, black lime, onions, tomatoes, turmeric, chili and fresh tuna.  It is served over a scoop of basmati rice.  We loved it!

Next were three dishes served communally, all at the same time.  It was a simple Omani salad that  had cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, parsley and mint but what made it unique was the addition of preserved lemons.  These are like a pickled lemon and added a unique element to the salad.  This was another keeper, everybody loved the salad; simple and delicious.

The main course was called madrouba, which literally translated means, “beaten rice.”  Despite the long cooking time, this dish is pretty easy to make and will infuse your kitchen with wonderful scents.  It has many spices but is not a hot spicy dish at all, it is simply a flavorful one.  It was enjoyed alongside Omani bread called khubz which is simply made with flour, water and salt.  It is cooked on a stainless flat surface above a hot flame where the dough is just lightly touched to the surface resulting in a very thin almost lace-like piece of bread.  The bread is not flipped but removed from the pan with what resembles a paint scraper.  It was very delicious hot off the grill.

For dessert, we served a small bowl of Halwa.  This is a gelatinous, sweet dessert made mostly of sugar and water and then flavored with saffron, cardamom and nuts.  It was a lovely end to our delicious Omani meal that left us wanting more.

As we say goodbye to this peaceful Middle Eastern nation, that has essentially no terrorism or crime, I leave you with a quote from His Majesty, Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al-Said:

““The path we have followed in our foreign policy over the past decades has shown itself to be both sound and effective, with God’s guidance.  We are committed to this approach, which supports justice, peace and security, and tolerance and love; which calls for international cooperation in order to reinforce stability, promote growth and prosperity and tackle the causes of tension in international relations by producing just and permanent solutions to critical problems; which fosters peaceful co-existence between nations; and which generates well-being and prosperity for the whole of mankind.”

Until next time,

Shukran (thank you)

Darlene

The name Kuwait comes from the Arabic words “akwat” and “kout”, which translates to “Fortress built near water.”  Kuwait is a small emirate on the Arabian Peninsula, located in the northwestern corner of the Persian Gulf.  Her neighbors are Iraq to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the south and the Persian Gulf to the east.  This country is tiny in size, but one of the richest on earth.  The country is run as a constitutional monarchy that the ruling family, Al Sabah, established back in 1756.  What began as a small trading fort, has grown to be one of the most urbanized countries in the world.

Kuwait, in addition to the mainland, comprises nine islands, only one of which is inhabited, called Failaka.  Mesopotamians first settled on this Kuwait island back in 2000 B.C.  The inhabitants were among the world’s earliest maritime traders.  The island was also once occupied by Alexander the Great.  In the eighteen century, Kuwait enjoyed rapid prosperity and became the principle commercial center for the transit of goods between India, Muscat, Baghdad and Arabia.  Kuwait was also the center for ship building in the Persian region. Their vessels were renowned throughout the Indian Ocean and they soon developed a reputation as the best sailors in the Gulf.  They also operated a significant pearl harvesting industry.

In 1899, the Shiekh Mubarak “the Great”, was fearful of a takeover by Turkey, during the time of the Ottoman Empire, and struck a deal with Britain to become a protectorate.  Britain provided naval protection in exchange for Kuwait’s agreement not to enter into treaties with other powers, or admit foreign agents, nor cede any part of its territory, without British consent.  In November 1914, Britain recognized Kuwait as an independent emirate that benefited from British Protection.  In the late 1930s, Kuwait struck oil and as circumstances radically changed due to the country’s riches, a new friendship agreement was signed.  Kuwait gained independence on June 19, 1961.  Sheikh Abdullah Al-Salem was credited for Kuwait’s independence.  After his death in 1965, National Day was created and is celebrated on February 25^th, the date on which Abdullah ascended to the throne, in 1950.  Previously, Kuwait celebrated their independence on June 19.  (Perhaps that date was changed because it is just too hot to have a celebration in June.)

Kuwait is a low lying, arid land, with a desert climate.  It is extremely hot and dry in the summer, which is long, and temperatures range from 108 to 118 degrees Fahrenheit.  Winters are short and can get colder than other Gulf country, due to its northern exposure.  The desert land is mainly sandy and barren.  They suffer from frequent sand and dust storms throughout the year, but they are most prominent from March to August.  There are no lakes or rivers in Kuwait.  There is also very little rainfall, only 2 to 6 inches per year.  Kuwait gets almost all of its water for drinking and domestic purposes from their large and sophisticated desalination plants.  The first plant was established in 1953.  The water is stored in 33 different towers known as the “The mushroom towers,” named for their unique mushroom, shape design.  Each tower holds 3000 cubic meters of water.  They are strategically placed throughout Kuwait City and serve as landmarks for their districts.  The design is so unique that it won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture, in 1980.

Kuwait supported Iraq during the Iran-Iraq war, yet in 1990, Saddam Hussein tried to annex Kuwait with an invasion.  His regime was upset that Kuwait was flooding the market with oil and driving the price down.  A US led United Nations’ coalition was formed that drove out Iraq, and the war was ended in 1991.  February 26^th is celebrated as Liberation Day.  However, the effects of war on Kuwait were horrendous.  Many of the oil fields were set on fire and it took time and effort for Kuwait to return to prosperity.  The oil reserves in Kuwait account for ten percent of the world’s oil and nearly all of Kuwait’s GDP.  Although Kuwait has tried to diversify to be less dependent on the oil revenue stream, it remains dependent even today. They do have a vigorous shipping industry, as well as financial services, but oil is their main income.

The Kuwaiti dinar is the highest valued currency in the world.  The Kuwaitis are generous in foreign, economic assistance through the Kuwait Fund for Arab Economic Development.  They also have a sovereign wealth fund which has directed investments into the United States, Europe and Asia, where holdings are estimated to be $592 billion, in assets.  They are considered to be one of the more progressive Middle Eastern countries regarding free speech and women’s rights.  Although they have a ways to go, women were given the right to vote and to run for elections, back in 2005.  Authorities in Kuwait monitor internet communications and block content deemed offensive.  Press laws prohibit any references against God, the Koran, the Prophet Mohammed and the Emir.

The nation is made up of less than half Kuwaiti citizens, as it has a massive immigration problem.  Many people have sought Kuwait as a place to work and live, due to its incredible wealth.  It is the fourth richest nation in the world.  Being a Kuwaiti citizen has many financial benefits.  They are given an allowance from birth with free education through college.  They will often pay its citizens to study at universities in other countries, which includes room and board.  Housing is also subsidized, if not free, as well as healthcare.  This causes a rift between the immigrants and those who are considered citizens, as the rules to become a citizen are very difficult and this has created instability within the government.

The ethnic makeup of Kuwait is 60% Arab; Indians and Egyptians are the largest expat communities, with Iranians and South Asians making up most of the balance.  The main religion in Kuwait is Sunni Muslim, with some Shi’a and other religions in the mix.  Alcohol is illegal in Kuwait and pork is not consumed.  Arabic is the official language and English is taught as a second language.

As we look into the cuisine of Kuwait, it is influenced largely by the wealth of the nation.  Due to the arid dessert landscape and lack of water, not much grows in Kuwait.  They do grow some grains, fruits and nuts but other imports are prevalent.  Nearly all international types of cuisine can be found in the capital of Kuwait City.  However, it is the Arab Gulf cuisine that is considered Kuwaiti cuisine, with influences from Arabian, Persian, Indian and Mediterranean cuisines.  Lamb, beef and chicken are all readily available and usually served with basmati rice that is flavored with baharat, an Arabic spice blend.  Soups and salads are served with most meals, as well as khubz, an Iranian flat bread.  Fish and seafood are also a mainstay as they are located on the Gulf.  The typical spices, aside from baharat, are coriander, cardamom and saffron (the most expensive spice in the world.)  Machboos is considered the national dish. (We made machboos to represent Bahrain and the delicious recipe can be found under that country.)  Interestingly, they have an obesity problem in Kuwait, ranking eighth in the world.  Perhaps it is due to the serving size; Kuwaitis are known to always serve an abundance of food.

So let’s eat a Kuwaiti meal:

The Menu

 Soup

Shaurabat Adas (Red Lentil Soup)

Served with

Sultat Basita Kuwaiti Simple Salad

Kabees El Lift (Pickled Turnips)

Main Dish

 Murabyan (Shrimp and Rice)

Dessert

 Elbah (Vanilla Custard)

We decorated with the colors of the Kuwait flag; green, white, red and black.  Little yellow flowers were strewn about, representing the national flower, the Arfaj.  We added pearls, to symbolize a robust pearling industry, a ship, signifying their shipping talents and an oil can, denoting their wealth. The coat of arms, featuring a falcon (their national bird) and a camel (their national animal), was also included.  Dates and saffron strands completed the scene.

Our first course was a tasty, red lentil soup, common to the Arabian Gulf.  The soup was flavored with baharat, coriander, turmeric and loomi, (A dried black lime that imparts a unique flavor to Arab cuisine.) Lentil soup is hearty and could easily be a meal by itself, with a little flat bread.  It is best served with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Our next course was a Kuwaiti simple salad.  The salad was a typical green salad; made with romaine lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and onion, then dressed with a bit of lemon juice and oil.  What made it so special, was adding the pickled turnips.  (I am now officially in love with them.)  They are crunchy, salty, wonderful tidbits that have a bit of an earthy flavor, from the beets with which they are pickled.  The color is a bright pink.  They are found as a side dish on most tables, throughout the region.

For the main dish, (since we had already made the national dish, machboos, for Bahrain,) we prepared a dish called Murabyan, also extremely popular there and made with rice and shrimp.  The rice was first sautéed with onions and then, tomatoes and shrimp.  A topping was added made from all the Arabic seasonings one would expect, along with more shrimp.  The result was a lovely, spiced, shrimp and rice dish that was totally satisfying.

For dessert we made a vanilla custard, (perhaps an influence from the British friendship), called elbah, which was served cold.  It would be perfectly refreshing on a hot, Kuwaiti, summer day.  What made it Kuwaiti, was the addition of cardamom and saffron.  We enjoyed it with a hardy cup of Arabic coffee.

As we say goodbye to Kuwait, I leave you with a couple or proverbs:

“A known mistake is better than an unknown truth.”

“Believe what you see and not all you hear.”

and

“I complained because I had no shoes, until I met a man with no feet.”

Until next week,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

p.s. Have you ever tried those bright pink, pickled turnips?

Jordan is officially known as “The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.” Hashemite is a member of an Arab princely family claiming descent from Hashim, the great-grandfather of Muhammad. Yarden is the Hebrew name of the river that flows between the countries of Jordan and Israel. The name stems from the root word “yarad”, which means “to descend” or “flow down.” Known today as the Jordan River, it is a significant, fresh water source for the people of Jordan. The river also has major significance in Judaism, Christianity and Islam. This is the site where the Israelites crossed into the Promised Land and where Jesus of Nazareth was baptized by his cousin, John the Baptist. The name Jordan was adopted as a common name in Europe when crusaders returned with water from the river to baptize their own children.

Jordan is located in the Middle East, in western Asia, on the east bank of the river Jordan. Jordan is bordered by Saudi Arabia to the east and south, Iraq to the northeast, Syria to the north and Israel and Palestine to the west. Jordan’s location, at the crossroads of the Middle East, has been an important location since the dawn of civilization, connecting Asia, Africa and Europe. Today Jordan is considered the safest Arab country. However, it is right in the crosshairs of surrounding turmoil and has been extremely gracious in accepting refugees from conflicts dating back to 1948. Many Palestinians and Syrians now reside in Jordan. Jordan is the only country where a Palestinian can become a citizen.

Jordan was part of many kingdoms throughout history, including the Ottoman Empire, from 1516 until 1918. It was previously known as Transjordan. The Turkish rule came to an end during World War I when the Hashemite Army, in alliance with the British, took over and secured present day Jordan. Jordan became independent from Britain on May 26, 1946 and is run as a constitutional monarchy today. King Abdullah II is the current King who succeeded his father King Hussein after his death. King Abdullah II reaffirmed Jordan’s commitment to the peace treaty with Israel and its relations with the United States (US). Jordan is a key ally of the US and United Kingdom and together with Egypt, is one of only two Arab nations to have signed peace treaties with Israel. King Hussein was loved in the country and was distinguished by marrying an American woman who became known as Queen Noor or Noor Al-Hussein, which means “Light of Hussein.” She is credited for her work with refugees, as an advisor to Trust Women, (an organization aiming to put the rule of law behind woman’s rights) and as an advocate to ban landmines and eliminate nuclear weapons. Although she is no longer the sitting queen, she remains in Jordan to continue her work.

The country of Jordan is ethnically made up of 98 percent Arabs. Arabic is the official language and English is widely understood and spoken among the upper and middle classes. The majority of the population is Sunni Muslim, with a very small number of Christians, mainly Greek Orthodox. Jordan’s economy is among the smallest in the Middle East. Jordan does not have the natural resources on which many of her neighbors rely. King Abdullah has tried to implement economic reforms such as opening up foreign trade and privatizing state owned companies but it is tourism that is most lucrative. However, tourism has been hurt recently by the surrounding areas of conflict. Additionally, the large influx of refugees has caused massive unemployment and strains on their government. Their main industries, aside from tourism, are information technology, clothing, fertilizers, potash and pharmaceuticals. Their main crops are citrus, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, strawberries. They also raise sheep and cows and dairy products are widespread.

The capital city, Amman, is unique, in that it was originally constructed across seven hills, known as “jabals.” The city today spans over nineteen hills and directions are given based on “jabals.” It is the most populated city in Jordan, home to more than four million. Many of the buildings there look alike, as they are made from the same light-colored limestone.

Their main tourist site is the city of Petra, which is a UNESCO site and listed as one of the seven new wonders of the world. Also known as the “Rose City” for the color of the stone from which it was carved, it dates back some 2000 years. (It was featured in the Indiana Jones film, “The Last Crusade.”) The city, which has to be entered through a gorge only about a mile wide, is stunning with its rock cut architecture and water conduit system. Other historical sites in Jordan include Mount Nebo, which it is believed to be the burial site of Moses, Madaba which dates back at least 3500 years and is mentioned in the Old Testament numerous times and Pella. Madaba it is most famous for its intricate fifth and sixth century mosaics, prolifically laid throughout the town. Pella is a sleepy, small rural village, where there is evidence of humans dating as far back as the Paleolithic era, some 100,000 years ago. However, one of the most popular tourist destinations and also the lowest place on earth, is the Dead Sea. It is well known for its spiritual and healing spas.

The most notable aspect of Jordan, has to be the hospitality of the Jordanian people. They are known to be decent, honest, respectful and courteous. Generally speaking Jordan is a liberal society. They will smile and say “Welcome to Jordan.” The only thing they ask is in return is that foreign tourists make an attempt to honor their culture. When visiting there you should dress modestly and not show any public displays of affection to the opposite sex. It is very likely that you will be asked to drink some tea, or even be invited for a full meal at someone’s home. They will have a sincere interest in getting to know you. If for any reason you choose not to accept the invitation, you should say “Shukran shukran” (Thank you, thank you) and then you follow it up with, “Marra okhra insha’Allah (Another time, if God wills it”), which softens the no, yet indicates you won’t forget their kind offer. Also, never photograph a woman without permission, it is considered highly offensive.

As we look into the cuisine of the Jordanian people, it is mainly Middle Eastern, Arab and Greek, with some Turkish influences as well. Dishes include meze (small starter dishes) such as hummus, tabbouleh, and mouttabal. Kebabs are found all over and usually made with lamb. Rice is served at most meals along with an array of dried fruits and fresh vegetables. Grains, cheese and yogurts are also important ingredients in their cooking. Sweets, such as Baklava, are widely loved and sesame seeds, thyme, sage and mint are all quintessential flavors of Jordan.

So let’s eat a Jordanian feast:

The Menu
Starter
Mouttabal (Smoky Eggplant Dip)

Served with Shrak (Jordanian Flat Bread)

Main
Mansaf (Lamb cooked in goat’s milk yogurt with rice)

Served with
Fattoush (Mediterranean Salad with toasted bread)

Dessert
Kunafa (A sweet pastry with a cheese filling)

We decorated with the colors of the Jordanian flag; black, white, green and red. The colors represent the historical dynasties. We also used the black iris, which is the national flower along with citrus fruits, tomatoes and cucumbers. A sheep and a goat represented the nomadic lifestyle of the Bedouins, who are considered to be native Jordanians.

We began with a thimble of bitter, Arabic coffee, which is a welcoming gesture in Jordan. We downed it and then shook the cup back and forth indicating we don’t want anymore. If you were to hold the cup out straight, that indicates you want a refill.

We brought out the food and said “Sahtayn” (May you eat.) We began with the Jordanian flat bread, called shrak that was used to enjoy the dip, called mouttabal. (Of course we only used the right hand to eat.) The dip is very similar to baba ganoush which we made for Bahrain, except it has a beautiful smoky flavor due to the way the eggplant is cooked.

For the main course, we enjoyed the unique dish called mansaf, which also happens to be the national dish of Jordan. Mansaf is lamb, mixed with aromatic herbs and spices then cooked in yoghurt and served with lots of rice. The lamb is cooked in jameed (an Arabic word for dried yoghurt). The jameed is made from goat’s milk then mixed with water to produce a creamy sauce. The lamb is stewed in this sauce until perfectly tender. A large tray is first covered with the doughy, flat bread, (shrak) then dampened with yoghurt. On top of this, a layer of rice is heaped. The meat is then piled over the rice and covered with the sauce. (Pine nuts and almonds are used for garnish.) This dish is served for every special occasion and we can see why; it is truly a feast. The jameed adds both a salty and sour taste to the dish that is most distinctive. Jordanian etiquette dictates that one should only eat the portion of food on the platter that is directly in front of them. Often the host will add special pieces of meat to your section for added enjoyment.

We served the mansaf with a side salad, called fattoush. This is your basic Arabic vegetable salad with the addition of toasted shrak which absorbs the dressing perfectly, like a crouton. We loved the simple lemon and olive oil dressing with just a touch of salt and pepper. It was garnished with sumac, which is quite popular in that region.

For dessert, we had an interesting sweet pastry, made with very fine strands of dough called kataifi. This dough is lightly coated with ghee and when baked makes for a lovely, crunchy pastry. The kunafa has a delicious cheese filling tucked in-between the layers of the pastry. The whole thing is coated with a sweet syrup, lightly flavored with citrus and rose water. The kunafa was garnished with dried fruit and nuts; a superb ending to our Jordanian feast.

We finished our meal and placed our right hand over our heart and said, “Al-Hamdulillah” which means (Thank God), which expressed our enormous appreciation for this lovely feast.

Until next time,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Iran means, “Land of the Aryans” in Persian. Located in the Middle East, Iran is one of the oldest, continuous civilizations on earth, with historical and urban settlements dating back to 4000 BC. The people have called their country Iran for over a millennium, while Westerners referred to the country as Persia. In 1979, after “The Revolution,” the country officially became the “Islamic Republic of Iran.”

Iran is mainly a high plateau located between the Caspian Sea, the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman, with nearly 30 percent of the border on the coast. Her neighbors are Azerbaijan, Armenia and Turkmenistan to the north, Pakistan and Afghanistan to the east and Turkey and Iraq to the west. The central plateau is actually a tectonic plate where earthquakes are common. Surprisingly, the climate in Iran is one of extremes, from subpolar to subtropical, with temperatures ranging from -40 degrees to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. With mountain ranges surrounding the plateau, skiing is one of Iran’s best kept secrets. The arid interior is home to two deserts that dominate the eastern part of the country.

Iran’s rich history, starting with the Persian Empire, a major superpower, has included many conquerors and influences along the way. It was the Safavid Dynasty which established Shi’a Islam as the official religion of their empire in 1501; a major turning point in the history of Islam. Iran, from that point forward, was a monarchy ruled by a shah, or emperor, nearly without interruption, until the 1979 revolution.

The “Iranian Revolution” led by Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, transformed Iran from an absolute monarchy to an Islamic Republic. A new theocratic constitution was formed and Khomeini became the Supreme Leader. The ideology of the revolutionary government was populist, nationalist and Shi’a Islamic. Khomeini’s reign, until his death in 1989, had great impact around the world. The era was dominated early on by the Iran hostage crisis, when 52 American hostages were held for 444 days by Iranian students who labeled the US embassy personnel as a “Den of Spies.” The takeover was very popular in Iran and thousands regularly gathered in support of the hostage takers. It was at this time that Khomeini started referring to America as the “Great Satan.” Needless to say, this severely damaged relations with America, and Iran has suffered massive sanctions ever since. Industry was nationalized, laws and schools converted wholly to Islam, and Western influences were banned. This was also the time of the very costly and bloody war with Iraq. Hundreds of thousands lost their lives, including women and children. Saddam Hussein (Iraq’s dictator) unleashed chemical weapons on the people of Iran. This war left many scars on the people of Iran.

There have been recent developments between six world powers (including the US) and Iran in hopes of lifting sanctions, along with an agreement that limits Iran’s ability to produce a nuclear weapon. This is a major breakthrough in foreign relations and may bring good growth opportunity to the citizens of Iran. Iran has a very young population, with over 80 percent of its estimated 81 million people, under the age of 40. Recent uprisings from the youth may be slowly reforming some of the government’s very strict policies.

Most of Iran’s population is Persian, however there are also ethnic Kurds, Arabs, Azeris, Lurs, Turkmen and Turkic tribes. The official language is Persian, or Farsi, but other languages are spoken based on the people’s ethnicity. The official religion is overwhelmingly Shi’a Muslim, with a very small minority of Sunni and others, such as Zoroastrian, Jewish and Christians.

Iran is home to 19 significant UNESCO world heritage sites, both pre and post Islam, with many additional places on the “tentative” list. From the Throne of Solomon to the Wonders of Persepolis, there is much to see and explore in Iran. Iran’s main export is oil but they are known for their beautiful Persian rugs and perhaps the finest caviar in the world. They are also exporters of fruits, nuts, cotton and saffron.

Iran used to be primarily a rural society, where nature was of the utmost importance. Even today, with fast growing urban centers, and even in the very populated capital city of Tehran, many Iranians try to bring the outdoors inside with intricate flower and animal motifs. Fresh flowers and fruit designs are part of every celebration. Iran is the only nation on earth that celebrates the New Year on the Spring Equinox and the only nation in the Middle East that uses the solar calendar.

In Iranian culture there is what is known as the inside and outside. The inside, or andarun, is the most private of space. It is where family members are most relaxed and are able to behave in a free manner. The outside, or biruni, is the public space, where social niceties must be observed. Almost all the architecture is designed with the principle of biruni in mind. Families create both spaces inside their homes and often one room or space can be quickly transformed as needed. Iranians are known for their incredible hospitality where they are prepared to entertain overnight guests at a moment’s notice.

Shopping is done at The Bazaar and at the head of every Bazaar is a mosque; a gathering place at the heart of the Islamic faith. The Bazaar is set up with like merchants in the same location and the Bazaar is where one can find anything you would need for everyday living. Friday all the shops are closed.

In Iran the most visible mark of the Islamic Republic is the dress. Women are required to wear a hijab, which means cover or curtain. They must cover their head, and neck with a head scarf, called a roo-sari and a formless, knee length coat, known as a roo-poosh, plus a long dress or a pair of pants. Modesty is key and at holy sites women are required to wear the chador, a full length swathe of black cloth designed to cover everything but their face from view. (Iran has a large number of women who get nose jobs, as the face is often times all that can be seen in public). Western wear may be worn underneath a chador or while at home in the private space. Men are prohibited from wearing shorts or tight jeans. Foreigners traveling to Iran should be mindful of this protocol while visiting there, as the penalties can be severe.

As we look into the cuisine of Iran, known throughout the world as Persian cuisine, we are in for a treat. Iranians have a healthy diet, with fresh fruits, greens and vegetables always the mainstay. Meat is generally a condiment, usually lamb, or chicken. Rice and whole grain un-leavened breads are staples. Pork is prohibited, as is alcohol, although local moonshine can be found in some communities. Black tea is ubiquitous and tea houses can be found all over the country. The influences are a combination of Greek, Indian, Azeri and Turk, yet the food has a flair all its own. Iranians believe that food is either hot or cold, not in temperature but rather the affect the food has on the body. It is a belief that originated in ancient times from the Zoroastrian religion. It is thought that food is a fuel which either weakens or strengthens the body. Some foods slow the digestive process and others speed it up; it is a balance between the two that is sought. The whole idea is to create a balance of neutrality. The result is delicious combinations of flavors and great nutrition.

So Let’s Eat Persian style

The Menu
Starter
Kaskhke Bedemjan (Eggplant Walnut Dip)

Soup
Ash-e-Reshteh (Persian Noodle Soup)

Served with Sabzi Khordan (Fresh Herbs and Vegetables)

Main
Fesenjan (Pomegranate Chicken)

Served with Javaher Polow (Jeweled Rice)

Dessert

Bastani Sonnati (Saffron Ice Cream with Pistachio Nuts)

We set our Persian rug on the floor with a shorbeh, or dining cloth, along with cushions to sit on. Although dining tables are not uncommon in modern Iran, it is often customary to sit on the floor cross-legged, to enjoy the family style meal. We decorated with pomegranates and nuts as well as a candle with the symbol of Faravahar, a religious cultural symbol from the Pahlavi Dynasty. Roses and tulips also adorned the setting, as they are both considered national flowers. Forks and spoons are used but only with the right hand, as the left is considered unclean; despite a handwashing ritual before the main meal.

In Iran there is something called “Taarof.” It is a system of politeness that includes both verbal and non-verbal communication. If you are offered something, like tea or a sweet, even if you want it, you should decline it until further insistence. If you are invited into a home for a meal, you are expected to decline awaiting further prompting but you should accept multiple helpings at mealtime. Iranians will also protest compliments in an attempt to always appear humble. You should leave a little food on your plate when you are done eating or they will assume you want more, even if you decline; remember, Taarof!

We began the meal with “Befarma’id” (which means Bon appetite in Farsi). Warm, naan bread was served to dip into the eggplant walnut dip, called Kaske Bedmjan, as the starter. Eggplant is considered the potato of Iran and the preparation with the walnuts and kashk (a cultured farmers cheese), made for a creamy, delicious dip. It was topped with caramelized onions and was simply divine.

Next was the Ash-e-Reshteh, a traditional noodle soup that is often served for New Years. It is customary in Iran to serve noodles before embarking on anything new. The soup, with many different types of legumes, is hearty and wonderful. Seasoned with turmeric and saffron, it makes for a beautiful presentation as well. Reshteh, is an egg noodle, found in Middle Eastern stores, somewhat similar to linguine. The soup is also topped with a little kashk; that wonderful, creamy, farmers cheese, yum!

For the main course we savored a dish called fesenjan. Although the national dish of Iran is considered to be chelow kabab (a dish consisting of steamed saffron, seasoned basmati rice and kabab, usually lamb, served with roasted tomatoes), this dish came in as a close second. Fesenjan, an amazing chicken dish, made with pomegranate molasses and walnuts, is a worthy dish to impress guests anytime. It is simply delicious.

This main course was served with Javaher polow, or jeweled rice, an absolutely beautiful dish that is equally tasty. The rice is seasoned with typical Iranian flavors such as saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, allspice, and cumin then embellished with dried apricots, barberries, raisons, almonds, pistachios and yes, pomegranate. Sabzi Khordan, a condiment comprising fresh herbs and vegetables (found on every Iranian table), provided the perfect garnish. The herbs and vegetables change based on what is fresh and in season. Ours had radish, cucumber, dill, coriander, mint and parsley.

We loved it all!

For dessert, Iranians love sweets of all kind and ice cream, is no exception. It is usually served in-between two pieces of wafer. Ours was a delicious, saffron ice cream, served in a cone, topped with pistachios…. Divine!

Until next week,
Be salamat! (Have a nice journey)
Darlene