Search Results for: Mali

How did Somalia get its Name?

Ancient Egyptians called it the “Land of Punt.” Punt is also mentioned in the Bible, and ancient Romans called it, “Cape Aromatica.”  They valued its trees, which produced the aromatic gum resins, frankincense and myrrh.  Somali is an ethnic group so, it is believed Somalia means, “Land of the Somali.”  It is the most homogenous country in all of Africa, with Somali making up 85 percent of the population.  Bantu and other non-Somali make up the balance.  The official name is the “Federal Republic of Somalia” and the people there call it “Soomaaliya.”

Where is Somalia Located?

Somalia is the eastern most country of Africa; located on the strategic Horn of Africa.  It is bordered by Ethiopia to the west, Djibouti to the northwest, the Gulf of Aden to the north, the Somali Sea and the Indian Ocean to the east, and it also borders Kenya to the southwest.  It occupies a strategic geopolitical position between the countries of Arabia and southwestern Asia.  Its capital city is Mogadishu, located just north of the equator on the Indian Ocean.  It has the largest coastline of any African country.

A Brief History of Somalia

The origin of the Somali people is not certain but it’s believed that they originated in the southern Ethiopian highlands and migrated into northern Kenya during the first millennium, BC.  Later they migrated onto the horn or peninsula.

Due to its strategic location, influences from both Africa and Arabia are present.  There were multiple Somali empires during the middle ages that had a large impact on trade.  Some of these empires included: the Sultanate of Adal, the Warsangali Sultanate and the Gobroon Dynasty. 

Arabs introduced Islam to Africa beginning in the seventh century and by the tenth century, Arab trading posts thrived in southern Somalia, along the Indian Ocean.  Most Somalis converted to Islam by about 1100 AD.  They fought multiple wars against the Ethiopian Christians and became the dominant people in the land.  Their capital, Mogadishu, was at its height of influence and wealth during the 13^th century, when it controlled the gold trade along the East African coast.

In the 1800s the British and Italians arrived and established British Somaliland and Italian Somaliland.  The Dervishes fought off the British from the interior for years under the leadership of Muhammad Abdullah Hassan, until they were eventually defeated in 1920.  The Italians controlled most of the area until after World War II, when the British took it over completely.  In 1960, Somalia gained full independence from Britain.

Unfortunately, in 1991 civil war broke out.  Since that time, the country has been in anarchy with no real central government.  It is also home to the jihadist terror group known as Al-Shabaab.  As a result, it is one of the most violent and one of the poorest countries in the world.  They have suffered mass casualties from war, disease and famine and many Somalis live as refugees in their own country or in neighboring ones.  In the north there is an autonomous region known as Somaliland but it is not recognized as such by the international community.

Somalia Culture

The population of Somalia is a guesstimate of about 14 million.  The official language is Somali however, it did not become a written language until 1973.  Arabic is also an official language and is spoken and read for religious reasons.  A small percentage of Somalis speak Italian and a growing number speak English.  The official religion is Sunni Islam; traditionally Somalis practice a moderate form of Islam, influenced by Sufism.  However, the Salafi movement, a reform branch, has gained more political influence in recent decades.

About 3/5^th of the population are nomadic herders, the others are city dwellers.  The Nomads spend nearly all their time outdoors. The traditional shelter of the herders is called the aqal, which is a dome shaped, collapsible hut, made from poles and covered with hides or woven, fiber mats.  It is easy to take down and reassemble and is the responsibility of the women of the family.  It is carried by camel.  Typically only a bed is inside the aqal, made from wooden stakes and covered with hides.  They have few possessions and just enough household items for cooking.  Many nomadic camps are surrounded by a fence made from thorn bushes to keep out predators.  Animals are kept in corrals, also made from thorn bushes.  They typically will make camp near a shade tree which is used as a gathering place and class room.

Clan groupings of the Somali people are important social units.  Clan membership plays a central role in Somali culture and politics.  They are patrilineal and are divided into sub clans, resulting in extended families.  Unfortunately clan rivalries are one of the problems they face in establishing a central government for the nation.  Somalis have a very high fertility rate, an average of six children born per woman.  However, they have a very low life expectancy, with only 51 years for a man and 55 years for a woman.

Somali Cuisine

Somali cuisine is varied with different local foods in every region of the country.  Its main influences come from East Africa, Arabia, Turkey, India and Italy.  

The camel was first domesticated in Somalia and there are more camels in Somalia than any other country in the world.  Camel milk is to Somalia what cow’s milk is to the west.  They even have a common phrase which is uttered to guests, “soo maal” which means, “go milk” (the camel.)  Camel meat is also consumed however, goat is much more popular.

Goat meat is often cubed and seasoned with a spice blend called xawash, similar to Ethiopia’s berbere.  They make the cubed meat into what is called suqaar, a common dish like a stew which is often eaten with rice or anjero, a flat bread, similar to Ethiopia’s injera.  Spiced rice called bariis iskukaris, which is similar to a pilau, is beloved.  Sambusas, little fried pastries stuffed with meat or vegetables, are a go to snack.  Generally speaking, the cuisine of Somalia has many spices with cardamom being extremely prevalent.  They like to buy cardamom in pods and grind it, just before use.  Cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, coriander, ginger and fenugreek are all common spices.  Somalis also like their food spicy hot, from chilies.  However, they like to put it on the side, so they can add heat to their liking.

So let’s enjoy a Somali Meal:

The Menu

The Meal

Muufo (Somalia Bread)

Main Course

Baasta Iyo Suugo (Somali Pasta)

Made with Xawaash (Somali Spice Blend)

Served with

Somali Salad with Bizbaz (Jalapeno Dressing)

Dessert

Kac Kac (Somali Doughnut)

We set the scene with a leopard print cloth to represent the national animal of Somalia.  A white star, which is prominent on the flag of Somalia, was placed along with a photo of a camel.  A banana was added because they eat them with almost everything, and we included their national flower, the King Protea.  We used incense with the fragrance of frankincense.  The meal was served all together, which is customary there, except for the dessert.

The pasta dish was made with small cubes of beef and seasoned with their famous xawaash spice blend, which was excellent.  Somalis eat bananas with all sorts of things and this Somali Pasta was served with a banana on the plate.  I was skeptical at first but oh my goodness, it was delicious.  It provided a wonderful sweetness to the dish which perfectly balanced the flavors.  We also loved the thick bread called muufo which was made with fine semolina and flavored with fenugreek.  It was perfect to soak up the spicy sauce. 

A basic salad of lettuce, tomato and onion was served as well but the jalapeño dressing called Bizbaz was out of this world.  I have made the spicy, creamy dressing many times since I cooked this dish and it goes great as a dip for grilled meats or as it was intended, as a salad dressing. 

For dessert, we enjoyed kac kac, a delicious fried dough, gently flavored with a hint of cardamom.   We had them with a cup of Somali tea, known as shaah bigays; a simple black tea that is served after heavy meals.

Afterwards, we sat down to watch a film called, Black Hawk Down, a war film about the true story of the U.S. military’s 1993 raid in Mogadishu.

I pray the people of Somalia will find their way to rid the country of radical ideology and  can finally live in peace.

“Rajada ugu fiican!” which means, “Best Wishes!”

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Mali and Mauritania are neighbors in the northern section of West Africa.  They have several things in common, including a border.  They both are large countries; Mali is the eighth largest country in Africa, with a large portion of the country lying deep in the Sahara Desert.  Most of the inhabitants of Mali live in the south, along the Niger and Senegal Rivers.  Mauritania is the 11^th largest country in Africa.  It is not landlocked like its neighbor Mali, as its western border is the Atlantic Ocean.  Ninety percent of the land of Mauritania is also within the Sahara Desert.  Mauritania’s population is most concentrated in the southern part of the nation, as well.

Both countries are predominately Muslim.  Mauritania is officially called, “The Islamic Republic of Mauritania.”  The country is nearly 100 percent Muslim with only about 4500 Roman Catholics, served by the Roman Catholic Diocese of Nouakchott, which was established in 1965.  They have extreme restrictions on freedom of religion and it is one of only 13 countries in the world which punishes atheism by a sentence of death.  Mali, in contrast, provides for freedom of religion and does not permit any form of religious discrimination.  It is about ninety percent Muslim.  Both countries suffer from extremism and are considered to be a couple of the poorest nations on earth, despite being rich in natural resources.  They have each suffered from coups since their independence from France in 1960; Mali on September 22^nd and Mauritania on November 28.

Mali and Mauritania both have a large population of Haratines, (freed, African slave descendants.)  Some human rights groups fear that slavery still exists in these countries, mainly impacting women and children.  In Mauritania slavery wasn’t outlawed until 1981 and even then, it is believed the law was never enforced.  In Mali, there were reports, as recent as 2012, that during a rebellion, ex-slaves were recaptured by their masters.

The majority of the population in these two countries depends on agriculture and livestock, even though most of the nomadic, tribal, lifestyle was forced into the cities.  This was mainly due to the massive droughts that occurred in the 1970s and 1980s.  Cotton, is grown in Mali and is an important export.  Iron ore and fish are important for Mauritania.

Mali gets its name from the Mali Empire that was formed on the upper Niger River and reached its height of power back in the 14^th century.  The name has dual meanings in the Bambara language; “hippopotamus” and “where the king resides.”  The Capital city of Bamako, means “Crocodile River.”  The official language of Mali is French but it is a multilingual country with at least 50 tribal languages spoken.  Arabic and English are two other important languages.  Mali was also the cradle of the Empire of Ghana; West Africa’s first, Black Empire.  Mali has not promoted itself for tourism and therefore the people remain quite traditional, practicing many of their old cultural, tribal ways, such as Ancient, African drumming.

Timbuktu, a city in Mali, was an important center for Islamic learning and trade during medieval times.  It is still used as an important stop for salt caravans and traders.  Back in the day, salt was such a sought after commodity that people would trade it, pound for pound, for gold.   Some buildings remain from its hay day.  Rock paintings found in the area of Gao and Timbuktu suggest the region was inhabited as early as 50,000 BC.  Gao, is another city in Mali, which lies right on the meridian marker.  In Gao, one can literally stand on the edge of two hemispheres.

Mali may be best known for the Grand Mosque, in the city of Djenne’.  It is the largest, mud brick, building in the world and looks like a giant, sand castle.  It was built in 1204 AD.  The massive Mosque is a national treasure.  The bogolanfini cloth, which is a handcrafted, cloth, dyed with mud, is only produced in this part of Africa.  The Dogon people, of central Mali, hold a masked festival, featuring 75 different masks, known as the Sigul.  This festival only happens every sixty years and lasts for several years, as it travels from village to village.  It symbolizes the period between the death of the first ancestor and the moment humans began to speak. The next festival will begin in 2027.

Mauritania, pronounced “more-atania,” also gets its name from an ancient kingdom; the Berber Kingdom of Mauretania.  This kingdom existed from the third century to the seventh century BC, to the far north of modern-day Morocco.  The Romans referred to the Berber people as “Maures.”   The Latin meaning of the word “Mauretania” is “West.” Today about one-third of the population lives in the capital city of Nouakchott, which is located on the Atlantic coast.  Nouakchott means, “place of the winds” and was only designated as a capital in 1960, making it one of the newest capitals of the world.  The official language is Arabic, with formal recognition of French, Fulani, Soninke and Wolof.  There, unfortunately, is constant ethnic conflict, especially between the Nomadic Arabs and the Black Africans.

Mauritania is home to what is known as the “Eye of Africa.”  If you were to look at it from space, it looks like a perfect, bull’s-eye image.  It is believed to be some sort of a highly symmetrical and deeply eroded geologic dome that collapsed.  It is massive, with a diameter of 30 miles.  Some are amazed by the resemblance of this structure and Plato’s description of the city of Atlantis.  Either way, much more research is required, (when it is safe to do so,) to get a better understanding of this unique place.  There are other special places in Mauritania, some of which are UNESCO world heritage sites. The old town of Chinguetti is one of them, which draws people from all over and allows them to be transported back in time, into an old Arab town.  The prominent landmark in Chinguetti is the Great Mosque, built during the 13^th or 14^th century and said to be the soul of the city.

Parc National du Banc d’Arguin is also an UNESCO site and is located between the two largest cities.  The area is composed mainly of sand dunes, which provide a rich biodiversity, as they stretch to the Atlantic Ocean.  The park serves as a breeding ground for birds and has one of the largest concentrations of migratory birds in the world, which includes: pelicans, terns, flamingos and broad-billed sand pipers.  It is a bird lover’s paradise.  The surrounding waters are an abundant food source, for not only the birds, but also for the people living in the area.

As we look into the cuisine of both nations, they are very similar to other West African countries and North Africa countries, as well.  Mauritanian’s national dish comes from neighboring Senegal.  It is a dish called Thieboudienne (cheb-u-jin,) which is popular on the coast and made with fish and rice, tomatoes and other vegetables.  Fish is a staple in Mauritanian cuisine.  Mali doesn’t list a national dish but they also eat fish from the rivers.  Often times, it is served with kuskus or couscous, which is prepared using millet or barley flour, rolled to create small pellets that almost look like rice.  Women in both countries gather to make large batches that will last for weeks.  It is the base for all sorts of sauces, many are made with peanuts and sweet potato leaves.  Vegetables, like sweet potatoes, tomatoes, onions, okra and peppers, are often used.  Meats eaten there are typically lamb, goat, chicken and fish.  Alcohol is not consumed by Muslims, nor is pork.  Interestingly, obesity is an issue for women in Mauritania, which is not very common in most other African countries.  Being large is considered beautiful by Mauritanian men.  Many dishes from surrounding countries would also be most appropriate to represent Mali and Mauritania as well.  Feel free to click on the links for the recipes for Akkara, a bean fritter, Yassa poulet, a lemony chicken dish, as well as jollof rice, a spicy rice dish.

So let’s enjoy a Malian and Mauritanian meal:

  The Menu

Appetizer

Watermelon Slices

Main Course

Leksour (Lamb Stew served on Millet Pancakes)

Dessert

 Meni-meniyong (Sesame and Honey Sticks served with Dates)

And

The Tea Ritual (Green Tea served with Mint and Sugar)

For this meal we began with a handwashing custom, by passing around a pot of water and a basin.  We decorated with the color of their flags; green, yellow and red.  We sat on the floor, to enjoy the meal communal style.

Our first course was simply, watermelon slices.  In both countries, watermelon is a beloved fruit.  It is not hard to imagine why this fruit is so important, given the dry, hot and dusty conditions of the Saharan Desert.  You will often see women and children selling watermelon at the local markets and they even have the ability to carry it on their head.  We enjoyed the watermelon with a touch of mint, on a hot summer day and loved it.  In both countries, a wild variety of watermelon grows that has white flesh.  The seeds are ground and used in baking, adding a different nutritional value than that of grain.  Watermelon is also commonly served as dessert,

For the main course, we faced the challenge of rolling up the savory lamb stew in a pancake, using only our right hand, which is customary there.  It does take some practice when you are not used to it, and definitely adds to the entertainment of the meal.  This dish is a simple, lamb stew, seasoned with a bay leaf, salt and pepper. This allows the flavors of the lamb and vegetables to shine through.  The pancake, made with millet flour, was tasty and had a bit of a nutty flavor.

For dessert we we had sesame seed and honey sticks, called meni-meniyoung.  Sweet and yummy they were served alongside fresh dates and were part of the tea ritual.  Tea pulling, as it is called, is really an art form.  From about a meter away, the host perfectly pours the tea, first from the pot to a small glass and then from glass to glass, until a foamy, frothy top appears.  This aerates the tea, taking away the bitterness.  After the first glass, the pot is returned to the coals and brewed again, this time with mint and copious amounts of sugar.  (It brings a whole new meaning to sweet tea.)  The tea party is the ultimate form of hospitality and friendship and is also used for business negotiations in both countries.  Often times, the tea party can last for several hours. however it always includes precisely three cups of tea. The first cup is bitter, like life, the second one, strong, like love and the third cup, gentle, like death. The tea is slurped loudly and every drop is savored.

As we say goodbye to these two African countries, we do so with a prayer for the people living along the Niger River who, in the next couple months, may be facing epic flooding.

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Tonga get its name?

Tonga comes from the Polynesian language’s word “fakatonga,” which means “southwards.”  Tonga is the archipelago’s southern most group of islands that makes up central Polynesia. 

Where is Tonga located?

Tonga is located in Oceania; within a small archipelago in the south Pacific Ocean.  It lies directly south of Samoa and about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

It has 169 islands, however only 36 of them are inhabited.  These islands are in three main groups – Vava’u, Ha’apai, and Tongatapu, the latter is the largest island and where the capital city of Noku’alofa is located.  They are quite spread out, over about 500 miles.

Tonga is located in the “Ring of Fire,” where earthquakes and volcanic activity are common. 

A brief history of Tonga

The earliest known inhabitants of Tonga were the Austronesian people, from about 3000 years ago, known as Lapita.  They were famous for their elaborately decorated pottery. 

Beginning in the 10th century AD, Tonga was ruled by a line of sacred kings and queens known as the Tui’I Tonga.  Over the centuries, there have been power transfers, up until the third line of Monarchs, the Tu’I Kanokupolu, who eventually became the permanent rulers.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Over the years, the islands were visited by many navigators, beginning with the Dutch in 1616.  Captain James Cook who famously called Tonga, “The Friendly Islands,” visited them on a few occasions in the 1770s. 

The Spanish arrived in 1793.  It was, however, the arrival of the Wesleyan Methodist missionaries in the 1820s, that had the greatest influence in Tonga.

Tonga is very prideful that they were the only Pacific Island nation that wasn’t colonized by European power.  They did become a British protectorate in 1900 through a friendly agreement but became a fully independent nation in 1970.

In the late 20^th century and early 21^st century, pressure grew for political reform, moving towards a more democratic society.  Tonga still has a king and is run as a constitutional monarchy, but there is now a prime minister and a parliament.

Tongan culture

Tonga is home to about 105,000 inhabitants.  It also has a large diaspora population that sends remittances to their native lands as they live and work abroad.  Ninety-eight percent of the Tongan population are Polynesian, with a few Europeans, Chinese and other Pacific Islanders. The official languages are Tongan and English.

There are four core values that guide Tongan society.  They are: mutual respect (Fetaka’apa’ apa’ aki,) sharing, cooperating and fulfilment of mutual obligations, (Feveitokai’aki,) humility and generosity (Lototoo,) and loyalty and commitment (Tauhi Vaha’a.)

Family is the central unit in Tongan life and elders command the most respect.  Family may include distant relatives, cousins and of course siblings,parents and grandparents. It is said the respect for family is a reflection of Tongan’s love of the Royal family.

Tonga is unique in that its society is entwined with Christianity.  The Royal family are devout Methodists, as are a large percentage of Tongans.  On Sundays there are no flights scheduled, no business contracts allowed and no sporting activities.  Only essential businesses are open on Sundays.  There are harsh penalties and even imprisonment, if this rule is broken.  Sunday is meant to be a day of rest to attend church and feast with family and community.

Sunday is also a day for kava (a spicy, murky, drink made from the ground roots of a pepper plant,) often enjoyed before and after church.  Kava is said to relax the body and makes your lips and tongue numb.  It is a ceremonial drink and nearly every village has a Kava club that is a popular place for the  men of the village to gather in the evenings.

Handicrafts, in the form of mats and tapa cloth, have been an artform in Tonga for centuries.  Typically, made by women, the weaving of mats takes skill, patience, and a sense of design.  Often the goods are sold directly by the people who make them, so there is a personal connection.  Wood carving, bone carving and basket weaving are also important skills.

Tapa making and painting is still all done by hand.  The bark of the mulberry tree is used and beaten with wooden mallets.  This sound is heard from early morning until sunset and is one of Tonga’s most familiar sounds.  Women gather in their homes or at the village’s communal tapa house to assist each other in this art form.  Tapa are given as traditional gifts and make great souvenirs.

Music and Tongan dance are also important pieces of their society and culture. Dance movements are graceful and visually enhance the subtle melodies of sung poetry.

There are many traditional Tongan dances which express stories of Tongan history and legends. There is one dance called “Lakalaka,” in which a head feather called a “tekiteki” is worn.  The feather enhances the dancer’s head movements and is the most important component in the dance.  It is recognized as a UNESCO masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Tongan cuisine

Being tropical islands in the South Pacific, makes seafood very important in the Tongan diet.  Both fish and shellfish are still speared by hand by the native people.  Fish is oven baked in leaves in the traditional underground oven called, the “umu.”  It is also often consumed raw with coconut milk and sea water.  

Meat, including suckling pig, chickens, corned beef, and sheep are a few of the more popular meats.  Sadly, the introduction of some of these items have made Tonga the most obese country in the world. 

Tongans are a genetically large and strong people; the previous king was the largest Monarch in history, weighing in at 209 kgs, (460 lbs.)  He suffered from diabetes and heart disease before his death in 2006.  In his later years, he did shed quite a bit of weight and worked out three times a week to be an inspiration to his people.

Taro, yams, bananas, coconuts, breadfruits and tapioca are all important staples.  Tropical fruit also plays a central role in Tongan cuisine.  Oranges, limes and lemons, along with watermelon, onions, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes and pumpkin, are considered new foods, brought to the islands by westerners.

When Tongans feast they will serve up to 30 different dishes on a “pola;” a long tray made from coconut fronds.  Some dishes like beota’ika (marinated raw fish,) lu pulu (corned beef and coconut milk, wrapped in taro leaves,) wrapped vegetables, boiled in coconut cream and of course meat, seafood and octopus, are revered. Food and feasting are an integral part of Tongan society.

So let’s enjoy a Tongan meal:

The Meal

Starter

Ota Ika (Raw fish Salad)

Main Course

Lo’I Feke (Octopus in coconut cream)

Served with

Otai (Watermelon drink)

Dessert

Faikakai Malimali

(Banana dumplings with sweet coconut syrup)

For our dinner, we set out tapa cloths and shells, along with bright red flowers to represent the national flower called “Garcinia Sessilis.”  This was to give us the feeling of being on an island paradise.  Red is the national color of Tonga.

We also placed a small wooden boat and a white star, to represent how Tongans have learned to use the stars like a compass, along with currents and winds.  They are skilled at navigating the ocean in their canoe-like boats.  We put on  Tongan love songs and began our meal by saying grace, which is common in Tonga. 

Our first course was the national dish, called ota ika.  It is basically a ceviche.  Ours was made with fresh tuna, mixed with tomatoes, onions and a touch of chili.  The fish is first marinated in lime juice and then served with coconut milk. 

Ceviche is one of my favorite dishes, so this was a big hit!  I really liked the addition of the coconut milk, which gave it a bit of sweetness and a creaminess to the dish.

Our main course also came from the sea and was another recipe featuring coconut.  It was octopus (another favorite), onion and coconut cream.  Three simple ingredients, made this a scrumptious dish.  

We enjoyed our meal with a wonderful drink called otai, made with tropical fruits and watermelon.  It was like a delicious smoothie and we savored it.  

For dessert, we served faikakai malimali, which are little, banana dumplings that we dipped into a sweet coconut syrup. 

After dinner, I couldn’t help but reminisce about a fond memory from my childhood.  I come from three generations of Methodist ministers.  You see, I am a “PK” or a preacher’s kid.  I have wonderful memories of a Tongan family who was part of our congregation in Culver City, California. 

I remember they would dig a giant pit on the church grounds to make an umu. This was the oven that would roast a whole pig which was served along with other Tongan specialties.  I also remember them singing and dancing for us. They were so beautiful and graceful and had amazing voices. They always made me want to take a trip to Tonga.

As we say goodbye to Tonga, it is with a prayer of hope.  They recently suffered from a massive underwater volcanic eruption on January 15^th,2022, that triggered tsunamis that covered  the islands in ash, and knocked out communications entirely. 

Satellite images recorded the mushroom cloud covering 650km, (over 400 miles) one hour after the initial eruption.  One thing is certain, the Tongans are a resilient and strong people who will no doubt rebuild their beautiful and friendly islands.

Until next time,

“Nofo”  (Good bye in Tongan)

Warmest regards,

Darlene  

How did Senegal get its name?

There are a few stories about the name Senegal.  Some believe that the country is named after the river of the same name that runs along its northern border, before entering the Atlantic Ocean.  Some historians believe the name may come from a Saharan Berber people called the Zenega, who lived north of the river.  In the Wolof language, “Sunugaal” means “Our Canoe” and the story goes that there was a miscommunication with a Portuguese captain and a Wolof fisherman over a canoe. This is the etymology of choice accepted by the Senegalese people, due to the charming symbolism of a nation, “all in the same boat.”

Where is Senegal located?

Senegal is located on the Cap-Vert peninsula in West Africa on the Atlantic coast.  Its vibrant capital city of Dakar, is the westernmost city on the African mainland.  Senegal has many neighbors: Mali, Mauritania, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea and she wholly surrounds the small country of The Gambia.  This oddity makes the country look on a map like a big mouth taking a bite.

A Brief History of Senegal

It is believed the first humans in Senegal were hunters but sometime, around 3000 BC, they learned to farm.  By 500 AD a sophisticated society arose to make intricate iron tools and buildings made out of stone circles.  Towns and trade flourished.  In the 13^th century Senegal was part of the Empire of Mali, which lasted until their decline.  In the 15^th century, Senegal was broken up into several small kingdoms.

The first Europeans to arrive there were the Portuguese in 1544.  They began to trade with the Africans.  In the early 16^th century, the Portuguese started taking slaves from West Africa in large numbers to work sugar plantations.  The English, Dutch and French all established slave trading stations along the coast.  The Ile de Goree was taken by the French from the Dutch in 1677.   During the 18^th century, the slave trade flourished.  Europeans persuaded Africans from the coast to attack neighboring tribes and take captives.  Millions were shipped across the Atlantic in appalling conditions.  Today there is a museum called the House of Slaves with the “Door of No Return” that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It is a solemn place for contemplation and reflection.

The French took over Senegal and made it the headquarters of their growing West African empire.  This gave the Senegalese people education and healthcare that many other nations did not receive.  They also were a prosperous colony exporting ground nuts.  The French ended up giving independence to Senegal on June 20, 1960 as part of a union with Mali.  That was short-lived and Senegal became a separate nation on August 20, 1960.  Leopold Senghor, a catholic, became the first leader and is considered to be the founding father of the nation.  He introduced a new constitution in 1980.  Senegal is a poor country but unique in the world in many respects.

Senegalese Culture

The Sengelase have a motto, a way of life, called “Teranga,” which basically means “Hospitality.”  “The more I give, the more I have.”  This simple philosophy has shaped the nation in profound ways.

The country is made up of about 16 million people coming from about 20 ethnic groups.  The largest is the Wolof, however each ethnicity is important in the political, social and cultural spheres of the country.  The Wolof language is spoken by the majority of the people in Senegal and what you typically hear in the streets.  French and Arabic are considered to be the official languages, used in schools and government.

The country is 96 percent Sufi Muslim, a more mystical sect of Islam which was introduced in the 11^th century.  Christians, mostly Roman Catholics make up the balance.  They are a peaceful nation.  Western clothing is common in the urban areas of Senegal.  It is a choice however and many women prefer to wear a long, loose fitting, dress called boubous, with a matching headscarf.  

Like most African countries, Senegal has an age-old tradition of storytelling.  Written literature of Senegal is considered to be amongst the most important in West Africa.  Leopold Senghor, the founding father, is one of the most globally recognized poets.  Crafts such as glass painting, basket weaving, mask-making, wood carving, and textile painting are just a few of their specialties.

Music also plays an integral role in society.  The traditional music of the country has been influenced by the Malian Empire but it is faster and livelier.  Each ethnic group brings their own unique sounds and dance styles to the fusion of the nation.

Polygynous marriages are common in Senegal.  Households are often large and consist of a man and his multiple wives and children. The social structure is based on kinship.  Children and elders are highly regarded and children are taught social values at an early age.  In fact, the communal plate of food is a way to teach values.  The children have to wait, and only eat around the edges.  Adults get the triangle portion in front them and the women leave bites of protein for the children to enjoy.  With Teranga however, there is always room at the table for a guest. 

Senegalese Cuisine

Some say Senegalese cuisine is the best in the whole of Africa.  It has been influenced by North Africa, the French and Portuguese.   Being a nation of mostly Muslims, alcohol and pork are not consumed by the majority, but still available.  It is common to see a Senegalese enjoying a glass of bissap (a purplish juice made from the hibiscus flower) alongside a friend enjoying a local beer.

Because Senegal has rivers and borders the Atlantic Ocean, fish are very important to their cuisine.  Peanuts are the primary crop of Senegal.  In fact, they are one of the world’s largest exporters of peanuts.  Couscous, made of millet, white rice, sweet potatoes, lentils, black-eyed peas and numerous other vegetables, are considered staples.  Meat, fish and vegetables are typically stewed or marinated in herbs and spices and then served over rice, couscous or enjoyed with a French-style baguette.

Some of Senegal’s most popular dishes are: thieboudienne, which translates to the rice of fish, thiebou yapp, which translates to rice of meat and is typically made with beef or lamb. thiebou guinar is the rice of chicken and thiebou guerte is the rice of peanut.  Yassa, maafe and dibi are also popular which were made for neighboring countries.  Desserts like cinq centimes, aka the five cent cookie, is a peanut cookie that is quite popular as is thiakry, a millet pudding, or banana soup.

So let’s enjoy a Senegalese meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Ndambe (Spicy Bean Sandwich)

Main Course

Thieboudienne (Fish and Rice)

Served with

Saladu Awooka Ak Mango (Avocado and Mango Salad)

Dessert

Thiakry (Millet Pudding)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red, yellow and green.  Peanuts started the decor, as that is their main crop.  Cotton, which is another important crop, along with millet were placed.  A soccer ball was added to represent the national sport.  A photo of the famous Baobab tree was placed which is also called “the tree of life” and is a national symbol of Senegal.  These massive trees are in danger from drought and population growth but you will find them in the center of many villages, and always serve as a gathering place.  We put on Youssou N’Dour music.  In 2004, Rolling Stone magazine described him as “ the most famous singer alive.” You should check him out.

Our first course was a famous street food that can be found all over the country.  It is called ndambe, a spicy bean and beef mixture that is slathered on a French baguette.  In Senegal, you first buy your fresh bread and then find your favorite ndambe vendor.  Sometimes they are made with lentils and have no meat.  It is a wonderful sandwich that is often enjoyed for breakfast.

The main course was the famous thieboudienne, pronounced “ceebu jen,”  the national dish of Senegal.  The classic Senegalese dish is a fish stew with vegetables, served over rice.  It is no ordinary fish stew as it is bursting with layers of flavor.  The fish is first stuffed or marinated with a puree of parsley, green onions, garlic, chili and Maggi.  (Honestly, this puree can be used as a marinade on so many things, I fell in love.)  The fish is then fried and set aside, the vegetables are cooked until tender with the left over puree, along with chopped onion and tomato.  Smoked fish and a unique ingredient called Netetou is added, which is made from a seed and then fermented.  It adds a unique, almost umami flavor.  It is a staple spice used in many West African countries.  The rice, typically made with broken rice kernels, is cooked until tender.  Then the whole meal was plated onto a communal dish, which was eaten using a spoon.   Alongside the main course, we enjoyed a refreshing avocado and mango salad.  This was the perfect accompaniment to the hearty main dish, as it had a lovely, fresh, citrusy flavor.

For dessert, we loved thiakry.  It is a sweet pudding, similar to a rice pudding but this was made with millet.  It was flavored with vanilla and nutmeg and topped with raisins and pistachios.  We enjoyed it with mint tea, which is served in three varying concoctions, as is done in neighboring countries Mali and Mauritania.

As we say goodbye to this most intriguing country of Senegal, it is my hope that we can all implement more Teranga into our lives. 

 I leave you with a few Senegalese proverbs:

“There can be no peace without understanding.”

“An empty belly has no ears.”

and

“A lobster loves water, but not when he’s being cooked in it.”

Until next time,

“Jai-rruh-jef”  (“Thank you”) in Wolof

Darlene

How did Romania Get Its Name?

The name Romania comes from the Latin word, “Romanus” meaning, “Citizen of the Roman Empire.”  The people who inhabited the area of modern Romania were called Getae (Geti) by the Greeks and Dacians (Daci) by the Romans.  The name Romania was first used when the three regions (Walachia, Moldavia and Transylvania) of the country were united in 1859.  Transylvania, which is part of Romania, means “the land beyond the forest” and the capital city, Bucharest, is often called, “Little Paris” due to its elegant arch that was built in the time between the two World Wars.  Legend says the name Bucharest stems from the shepherd who founded the town on the Dambovita River.  His name was “Bucor” which means, “Happiness” in Romanian.

Where is Romania Located?

Romania is located in the southeastern part of central Europe.  It is the 12^th largest country in all of Europe.  Her neighbors are:  Hungary to the northwest, Serbia to the southwest, Bulgaria to the south, the Black Sea to the southeast, Ukraine to the east and the north, and Moldova to the east.  She also shares a maritime border with Turkey.

Romania is made beautiful by its rolling hills, verdant plains and foreboding mountain peaks.  The Carpathian Mountains, although not quite as high as the Alps, extend over 600 miles in the shape of an arch.  They are divided into three major ranges known as the eastern or Oriental range, the southern range, known as the Transylvanian Alps and the Western Carpathians.

The Danube River which begins its journey in the Black Forest of Germany, ends its journey of 1864 miles through Europe, in southeastern Romania.  It is the second longest river in Europe.  The Danube is an important waterway for domestic shipping, international trade and tourist cruises.  Here, the river divides into three frayed branches and forms the Danube Delta.  It creates new Romanian beaches that extend almost 65 feet into the sea each year.  The swampy delta, made of marshes, floating reed islands and sand banks, is a UNESCO Biosphere reservation and is a protected area for rare species of plants and animals.  Romania is home to 3700 species of plants and almost 34,000 species of animals, including the 6000 brown bears that live in the forest; the largest population in Europe.

The Black Sea’s wide and sandy beaches are a major tourist attraction from May to September, with a pleasant water temperature of 77 to 79 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer.

A Brief History of Romania

Romania’s history is complicated and dates back to ancient history, with evidence from the carved, stone tools unearthed there, that the land was inhabited since the Paleolithic Age.  Cave paintings dating back to 10,000 B.C. were recently discovered in northwest Transylvania.  Over the centuries, various migrating groups invaded Romania.  There are five distinct periods in Romania’s history:  the Roman Period, from 3600 BC to 500 AD, the Byzantine Period, from 500 AD to 1500, the Ottoman Period, from 1500 to 1750, the Mid-modern Period, from 1750 to 1914, and the Contemporary Period, from 1914 to present day.

Romania’s post WWII history as a communist-bloc nation is more widely known.  This is likely due to the excesses of the former dictator, Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife.  For 25 years, they ruled a struggling Romania, all the while building a palace/residence of grotesque opulence.  The palace, which now houses the Parliament (but is still 70% empty,) is about four million square feet in size and has 1,100 rooms, including a bathroom plated in gold.  There was an uprising of the Romanian people in 1989 which resulted in the ousting of Nicolae and his cabinet and ultimately the execution of Nicolae and his wife on Christmas Day.  As of 1991, Romania is a republic with a multi-party system, market economy and individual rights of free speech, religion and private ownership.  In 2007 Romania became part of the European Union.

Romanian Culture

Romania is home to nearly 20 million people.  Almost 90 percent are Romanian, 7.5 percent are Hungarian and the balance are Germans, Ukrainians, Armenians, Croatians, Serbians and Turks, including a group of gypsies, known as Romas.  The main religion, for nearly 80 percent of the population, is Eastern Orthodox.  Catholics and Protestants make up most of the balance, with a few Jewish and atheists as well.  Many of the holidays celebrated in Romania are based on the Orthodox religion.  Nearly every day of the year is dedicated to the memory of a saint or martyr.  If someone is named after the saint, that day is celebrated as his or her “name day.”

The official language there is Romanian, which is a Latin based language.  Hungarian and German are also spoken and many elders understand Russian.  Most Romanians speak at least one other foreign language and many speak two or three, with English, French and German being the most prevalent.  The literacy rate in Romania is 98 percent.

The economy used to be mainly based on agriculture and still today, nearly 25 percent of the land filled with pastures, orchards, vineyards, forestries and fisheries.  Today they also produce coal, natural gas, iron ore, and petroleum.  Tourism is a growing industry as well.

The distinctive culture of Romania is a result of its historical evolution.  One way in which the people of Romania showcase their tradition is by wearing brightly, colored costumes and ornaments and performing their traditional dances at their many street festivals.  There you will also find beautiful, woven carpets, wood hand carvings and pottery.  They are also known for their intricately, decorated Easter eggs, painted glass, and painted wood icons.

Why Visit Romania?

There are numerous UNESCO sites in Romania, which include rugged stone and wood churches.  One of these churches is the tallest, wooden church in the world, standing at 257 feet tall and topped with a 23 foot cross, weighing 1000 pounds.  You will also find dazzling monasteries with hand painted frescoes.  Transylvania has no shortage of awe inspiring castles.  However, there is none quite like their most famous attraction, the spooky, Bran Castle, with its connection to Bram Stoker’s Count Dracula.

In the capital city of Bucharest you’ll find a burgeoning, metropolitan city with a vibe that is simply explained as “energetic.”  The palace built by Nicolae, the communist dictator, is now a huge tourist attraction there.

Thanks to the bucolic landscape, there is just about every outdoor activity you can imagine along its numerous rivers, lakes and Black Sea shore.

Another interesting attraction lies in Sapanta Village and is called, the Merry Cemetery.  It is famous for the elaborate, bright blue, hand painted wooden crosses that adorn the tombstones.  They are hand made and depict the person’s life in pictures and verse, with no secrets left untold.  Visitors marvel at the gentle and sometimes dark humor of the epitaphs.  It is said to be the happiest cemetery in the world.

As true in many places, it is the people who provide the best reason to visit Romania.  They are known to be incredibly hospitable and friendly.  They love to show their hospitality by offering food;  a place after my own heart.

Romanian Cuisine

Romanian cuisine  is influenced by its own food resources as well as its neighboring and occasional occupying cultures. Turkish, Greek, Hungarian, Austrian, Russian, Germanic and Slavic influences are all reflected in Romanian cuisine.  Their food is hearty and comforting, with homemade flavors built around staples like pork, chicken, beef and lamb but also combining many local fruits and vegetables into their dishes.

Soups, called ciorba, of all styles, are ubiquitous, as is the famous side dish called, Mămăliga; a polenta made from corn meal.  It is served with stews and gravies and sometimes made into bread with a dab of sour cream on top.  The soups can be a meal by themselves, as they are very filling and typically made with meat or fish.  The meat soups are often served with a hot red or green pepper that can be nibbled along with a spoonful of broth, as opposed to adding into the soup itself.  The fish soups, especially those made near the Danube Delta, use freshwater fish and are served with a side of garlic sauce.

Cabbage rolls stuffed with spiced pork, called sarmalutes, are considered to be the de-facto national dish.  Other dishes such as pork stews are made with tomatoes and wine and add to the richness of the cuisine.  Fresh salads made with tomatoes and cucumbers are always found on Romanian menus.

We cannot complete the Romanian cuisine without the mention of sweets.  They are famous for strudels, cakes and crepes filled with chocolate or fruit.  However, the national treasure is a classic fried dough, with sweetened curd cheese, jam and cream, called Papanaşi.  I am convinced it is worth a trip to Romania, just for this dessert alone.  (If you can’t wait to go to Romania, than be sure to check out the recipe below.)

Alongside a Romanian meal, wine is served.  Romania is the one of Europe’s top producers of both red and white varieties.  Beer is also widely loved there.  However, if you are looking for something a bit stronger, look no further than their plum brandy called, tuica.  In Romania you will find tuica sold in plastic bottles at roadside fruit stands, right next to the apples and watermelons.  Many Romanians take pride in making their own, homemade version of tuica.

So let’s enjoy a Romanian meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Ovă Umplute (Deviled Eggs)

Main Course

Ciorbă de Perişoare (Sour Meatball Soup)

Served with

Mămăliga (Polenta)

Dessert

Papanaşi (A Fried, Cheese Doughnut, served with Sour Cherry Preserves)

We set the table with the colors of the Romanian flag; red, yellow and blue, which signify the three areas that now make up the Republic of Romania.  Small pink flowers called “dog roses” were placed, as it is the national flower.  We used a back drop of the painting by Leroy Neiman, called “The Olympic Mural” which featured Romania’s Nadia Comaneci, the first gymnast in history to score a perfect 10 in the Montreal Olympics in 1976.  We also placed fangs to represent “Count Dracula” and a wooden wine glass to represent their viticulture.  Finally, we added a cross to designate the widespread Orthodox religion there.

We began with a toast of plum brandy and said “Noroc” which means “Cheers” in Romanian.  Our first course was a deviled egg called, Ovă Umplute.  Although Romania does not take credit for creating the original deviled egg, they love them.  These treasures are made a little differently than we are used to, by adding a hint of horseradish which gives it a lovely kick.  They also add bits of ham in them, as well.

For the main course, we served a traditional Romanian soup called, Ciorbă de Perişoare.  It is a sour, meatball soup that calls for an interesting herb called “lovage.”  I had never tried this herb before and ended up growing it in my garden because all I could find was a dried lovage, or the seeds.  Lovage tastes bitter when raw but when its cooked in broth, something magical happens.  It adds a unique flavor, like none I have known.  The closest thing I can recommend to substitute for lovage, would be a combination of parsley and celery leaves.  Here is a link to the dried lovage.  Although, I think fresh is best.  This soup is hearty and perfect for a cold winter day, especially when served with Mămăliga.  I made this in the bread form, as opposed to the typical polenta.  It is made with corn meal and went perfectly with our sour, meatball soup.  We also totally recommend the bite of hot pepper along with the soup, as is their traditional.

For our final treat, we dove into the dessert called Papanaşi, which is a fried cheese, donut, topped with sour cherry preserves and cream.  I am not kidding when I say this dessert alone is worth a trip to Romania.  It is easy to see why it is considered a national treasure.

After dinner we sat down to read what was once the longest, love poem ever written, penned by the famous Romanian Poet, Mihai Eminescu.  It is called, “The Evening Star” or “Luceafarul”.   You can read it here.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

How did Portugal get its name?

Where is Portugal located?

Portugal is located in the western most point of Europe and lies on the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula.  It shares its northern and eastern borders with Spain, the only bordering country.  The Atlantic Ocean lies to the west and south, providing a stunning coastline loved by locals and tourists alike.  Portugal is divided by the Tagus River, which separates the rugged north from the rolling plains of the south.  The landscape in the north contains the mountains of the Iberian Peninsula.  The country of Portugal also includes the nine islands of the Azores, and two islands, well off its coast, named Madeira and Porto Santo that was once a home of Columbus.

A Brief History of Portugal

It is said that Lisbon is one of the oldest European capitals, founded 400 years before the Roman era.  It was inhabited by Celtic and other tribes as well as Phoenicians-Carthaginians, along the coast.  The Romans took over the area, known as Lusitania which is why speakers of Portuguese today are known as Lusophones.

The Romans began to occupy the area in 140 BC and made it famous for mining and agriculture, especially for the production of sweet wine.  The name Lusitania comes from the Roman god, Lusus, son of Bacchus, who was the god of wine.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, a Germanic tribe took over the Iberian Peninsula and established the church in their kingdom.  The church remains an important part of Portuguese culture.  The peninsula was later invaded and occupied by the  Arab Moors for more than 800 years.  After the partial Reconquista, Portugal finally became a kingdom, independent of Spain, in 1279.  The borders that were established then still remain the same today.

During the Imperial Era from 1279 until 1578, Portugal made many discoveries through its strong naval power and established colonies all over the world.  Brazil was one but also Mozambique and Angola in Africa, along with many others on several different continents.  Portugal became a world power and one of the most important empires of the time, with Spain being one of Portugal’s biggest rivals.

After the death of King Sebastian I, the empire went into decline.  Portugal then engaged in numerous European wars, including the Restoration war which resulted in fending off of the Spanish King who was trying to take over Portugal.  In 1755, Portugal lost much of its wealth with the destruction of Lisbon by a powerful earthquake.

Portugal had a good relationship with the British Empire and when Portugal refused to give in to Napoleon, which resulted in military attacks, the British helped Portugal restore their independence in 1812.  There were many problems that arose until 1910, when the First Portuguese Republic was established which brought about the King's resignation. The republic was ended in 1926 in a coup d’etat that resulted in a military dictatorship.

In 1933, there was a second revolution called the New State, established by Salazar.  His motto was, “Proudly Alone.”  His belief in nationalism and isolation saved Portugal from taking part in both World Wars.  Salazar always tried to maintain Portugal’s colonies under his rule and many Portuguese had to fight in those colonial wars.  This eventually led to the end of his dictatorship on April 25, 1974, when a peaceful military coup d’etat took place.

Portugal was then led into democracy (which remains in effect today) when elections took place, in 1975.  They became part of the EU with the guidance of Portugal’s most popular politician who became Prime Minister of Portugal. His name was Jose Barroso. Portugal has become a diversified and increasingly service-based economy since joining the EU.  Its last colonial hold was Macau, which was given back to China in 1999.

Portuguese Culture

There was a strong influence from the country’s geography, its history and its culture.  The cultural heritage stems from the people, having been part of its colonies in Africa, South America and Asia, and its tribal history.  Many more cultural influences come from being a global empire in the 15^th and 16^th centuries.

Portugal is famous for their exquisite, hand painted tiles.  They are used to adorn interiors and exteriors of houses, churches, palaces and other buildings. Originally of Muslim origin, the production of tiles began in the 15^th century but reached its peak in the 18^th century, with their famous blue and white tiles.  The train station in Porto tells the story of the city in grand style, with the use of these tiles.

Portugal is also known for the introduction of Manueline Architecture, a style that featured elements inspired by the sea and by symbols of Royal power, such as armillary spheres, which is the national symbol featured on their flag.  The Jeronimos Monastery and The Belem Tower are good examples of this architectural style but Manueline style buildings and features can be found all over the country.  Baroque and Romanesque styles also abound.

Fado is a type of music that has was named by the World Heritage as part of Intangibles. The history of Fado dates back to the 1820’s and 30’s however some believe it may have much earlier origins.  It is a form of song that is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics.  The Portuguese word saudade which means longing, symbolizing a feeling of loss.  Fado performers were typically sailors, bohemians and courtesans who not only sang but also danced.  Today, it is performed as just song, without the dance.  In recent years, Amalia Rodrigues, known as the “Queen of Fado,” is credited with making Fado popular throughout the world.  Taking in Fado is very popular with tourists, especially in Lisbon, and why not?  It is an important part of Portugal’s culture.

Portugal has no official religion, as the church and state were formally separated during the Portuguese First Republic in 1910.  However nearly 81% of the population is Catholic and important traditions have a significant bearing in Portuguese society and culture. The official language is Portuguese, considered a Romance Language. A direct descendant of Latin, however many speak English, French and Spanish as well.

Why Visit Portugal?

The country itself, with its long coastline and most of the cities and population living along it, make Portugal one of the prettiest countries in the world.  Each city and village has immense history as it is considered to be the oldest in all of Europe. Lisbon. the capital, has become a vibrant modern city, and to deal with its extremely hilly street levels, has installed elevators downtown to transport people up and down some 45 meters.  The lifts are disguised inside buildings on the low end of the city, so it is good to learn where to find them.

The architecture and signature black and white tiles and cobble stones, that line the streets make it picture perfect.  It is home to 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites.  One of them is the oldest, continuously operated, University in the world, established in 1290.  In Lisbon, you can find the oldest operating bookstore in the world.  Bertrand Bookshop, was established in 1732.  It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755 but has been in its current location since 1773.

Portugal is also known for exceptional surfing with 364 days of surfing each year.  Home to the largest wave ever surfed, it was an incredible 80 feet high.  Portugal is also the largest cork producer in the world, supplying nearly 70% of the world’s cork.  Needless to say, they are not happy with the screw on caps that have recently become popular for wine.  They are innovative however, making cork into belts, purses, shoes and the like.  There is a beautiful monastery near the town of Sintra that is made from cork.  The whole town of Sintra is a UNESCO site and simply like a fairytale that should not be missed on a trip to Portugal. It is filled with castles, palaces, churches and parks that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

Did I mention the wine, famous for Port and Madeira, as well as Vinho Verde, my personal favorite?  You will also find bottles of ginja, a liqueur that people make themselves from ginja berries (sour cherries) and store in bottles.  The country is a wine-lover's paradise.  A trip down the Douro River Valley, where most of the wine is made, is popular with tourists.  Of course, the Portuguese people are friendly and welcoming and are probably the biggest reason to visit, although the food is a close second.

Portuguese Cuisine

The cuisine get its roots from ingredients obtained through trade routes established centuries ago.  Bread, rice, spices, pastries, sausages and seafood, especially cod, remain the staples of many Portuguese meals.  It is often referred to as peasant food, although it is now becoming a gourmand’s destination.  The Portuguese get the credit for introducing tempura to Japan, tea to the British and hot chilies to Asia.

Many of their pastries are made with sugar, which started arriving in the 15^th century, originally from the island of Madeira and later from Brazil.  A visit to a Pasteleria is a must.  Interestingly, the pastries are made with lots of egg yolks, to include their most famous pastry, Pais de nata.  It is said that the nuns used the egg whites to starch their habits and preserve wine, so they had an abundance of egg yolks, with which they masterfully crafted into pastries.

The sausages are also famous and butcher shops all over are stuffed with cases filled with an array of sausages, along with legs of cured ham.  Chourico is a spicy sausage, used in many soups and stews, like their famous caldo verde.  Morcela, a blood sausage, is also extremely popular.  You will also find assortments of delicious cheeses, many made from sheep’s milk that are prepared using an ancient method of coagulating the milk with thistle flower.  Olives and olive oil are also exceptional products coming from Portugal.

Spices from all over the world are also used in their cuisine but it is probably the abundant use of seafood, that is most renown. The Portuguese are one of the top countries in the world when it comes to seafood consumption.  It is said that there are over 1000 Portuguese recipes that use salt cod as the main ingredient.  Sardines are also loved.  They even have a month long sardine festival that is held each year when they are the most abundant.  A couple of other dishes that should be mentioned is bifana, a pork sandwich that is a specialty, as is francesinha, a sandwich covered in a hot thick tomato and beer sauce.  Oh and their beer is highly regarded too.  They will tell you Super Bock is the best beer in the world.

So let’s enjoy a Portuguese meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peixinhos da horta (Fried Green Beans)

Soup Course

Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale Soup)

Salad Course

Salada de Polvo (Octopus Salad)

Main Course

Bacalhau a Bras (Salted Cod with Eggs)

Dessert 

Pasteis de Nata (Egg Custard Tart)

We set the scene in the classic blue and white dishes for which they are famous.  We placed several ships to represent there impressive naval exploration. They have a history of great explorers, like Ferdinand Magellan, the first person to circumvent the globe and Vasco de Gama, who discovered the sea route to India.  Bartholomew Diaz, was the first to sail around the southern tip of Africa and others who discovered new lands like Brazil, parts of Africa and the Far-East, claiming them for the Portuguese Empire.  A can of sardines was set in place, as was an olive branch, a cork, a cross and a good bottle of port wine.  We put on some soft Fado music to complete the mood.

We said Saude which means Cheers, and toasted with a taste of port.  We began our meal with fried green beans, that were battered.  This is the original tempura that was introduced to the Japanese, which the Japanese later embellished.  The name Peixinhos da horta, literally translated means, little fish from the garden.  The name comes from the end result of the fried beans resembling slender, fried fish.  We loved them as our first course.

Next, was the famous caldo verde or Portuguese kale soup.  It is literally my husband's favorite soup and therefore had to be included in the meal.  It is hearty and the flavor superb, especially with the chucks of chourico and linguisa sausages.

Next we enjoyed the main course, Bacalhau a Bras, a salted cod with eggs and potatoes.  This recipe was given to me by our guide in Sintra named Lidia.  After many inquiries during our trip to Portugal, this was the dish that nearly everyone told me to make as the main course for the Portuguese meal.  It  is lovely and the combination of flavors; comforting and delicious.

It was served alongside a octopus salad, as octopus is another much loved seafood.  This Portuguese version was excellent with red onion, sun dried tomatoes, coriander and lime.  I could eat this everyday!

Lastly, we just had to indulge in the famous pasteis de nata, the famous egg custard tart, that was sublime, and went perfectly with a shot of espresso called um bica, literally a shot of only 2-3 ozs.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful and intriguing county, I leave you with some Fado lyrics, which cannot be explained but must be felt and experienced.

Is both mine and yours this Fado

Destiny that tides us (together)

No matter how much it is denied

By the stings of a guitar

Whenever one hears a lament

of a guitar singing

one is instanly lost

with a desire to weep

Oh people of my land

Now I understand

This sadness which I carry on

Was from you that I received

And it would seem tenderness

If l let myself be soothed

My anguish would be greater

My singing would be less sadder

Oh people of my land

Lyrics by Mariza, an international Fado star

Until next time,

Abrigada (thank you, in Portuguese)

Darlene

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Laos can trace its name back to the Kingdom of Lan Xang, which means, “Kingdom of a Million Elephants.”  This successful kingdom was one of the largest in Southeast Asia from the 14^th century until 1893, when it became a French Protectorate.  The official name of the country is Lao People’s Democratic Republic or commonly referred to by its people as, Muang Lao.   The rest of the world continues to call the country Laos, which is technically not correct, yet remains to be the norm. The reason why Laos is incorrect is because there is no "s" in their  alphabet.   Laos’ enchanted history can be traced much farther back than the 14^th century.  An ancient human skull was recovered in northern Laos, dating back 46,000 years.

Laos is a landlocked country, located in the center of the Indochinese peninsula of mainland Southeast Asia.  Her neighbors are:  Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south and Thailand to the west.  The country is covered by dense forests and rugged mountains, with some plains and plateaus as well.  The climate is tropical and influenced by the monsoon pattern.  The rainy season is May to November, followed by a dry season, December to April.  Its rivers, most notably the Mekong River, which means “Mother of Water”, is the lifeblood of the country.  Most of the villages in Laos are scattered along its banks or tributaries.  The river marks the border with Thailand, where recent bridges have been built to allow access to each other’s border crossing.  They are called the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridges.

Laos gained independence from France on July 19, 1949, after a brief occupation by Japan during World War II.  It is one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia and is one of the few remaining communist run regimes.  Nearly 85 percent of the population works in agriculture, mostly subsistence rice farming that produces 51 percent of the country’s GDP.  New private enterprises are enjoying some success as the country tries to establish a more market based economy.  These enterprises include handicrafts, beer, coffee and especially tourism.  Tourism is the fastest growing sector of the economy.  However, new dam proposals along the Mekong River, which are quite controversial, are expected to make hydro-electric power its number one export.

Laos’ biggest challenge is a terrible crisis the country has faced since the Vietnam War.  There were more than 580,000 bombing missions in Laos, (mostly by the United States of America) from 1964-1973.  This is sometimes referred to as the “Secret War”, as many Americans were unaware of what was happening during that time in Laos.  The aerial bombardment in Laos was an attempt to destroy North Vietnamese sanctuaries and stop the supply line, known as the Ho Chi Minh trail.  CIA agents were placed in Laos to call in coordinates where they saw activity, during the war.  This resulted in a bomb drop every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years.

Aside from the devastation of war, the additional problem stemmed from the 270 million cluster munitions dropped, where up to 80 million failed to detonate.  They remain live, in the ground, since the war.  More than one-third of Laos’ territory suffers from UXO (unexploded ordinance) contamination.  More than 20,000 people have been killed or maimed as a result of UXO accidents since the war ended.  Forty percent of those casualties have been children.  It is estimated that it will take two millennia to clear Laos of UXOs at its current pace.  Although the United States has recently increased its funding for this effort, it is simply a drop in the bucket for what is needed to see progress.  The removal of UXOs is a painstakingly slow and a very dangerous task.  They literally search a patch of dirt with a detector, finding them one at a time, then carefully digging them up and exploding them.  There are more than 87,000 square kilometers to cover.

The Laotians are known to be simple people.  Most are Buddhist with a minimalist belief and lifestyle.  They are master craftsmen, from wood carvers to weavers.  They can carve the most amazing structures and weave just about anything from bamboo.  They are also known for their highly sought after, Lao silk, weaving it into the finest cloth.  Another handicraft is turning all that shrapnel and metal from bombs into art and even into dinner utensils.  These artifacts and crafts are found all over the country.

Music plays an important role in Laotian life.  The khene is the instrument most associated with Laotian music.  It is made from a special kind of bamboo.  Sets of bamboo and reed pipes of various lengths are strapped together and then blown into by the player.  Singing accompanies the khene, when used to play the traditional folk music, known as Lam.  It is popular in both Laos and Thailand.  Dance is also prevalent, known especially for the beauty and meaning of the graceful hand gestures, choreographed throughout their traditional dance.

As we look into the cuisine of Laos there are three things that define it.  The first is sticky rice.  Sticky rice is believed to have originated in Laos.  It is glutinous rice that, despite its name, actually contains no gluten.  It is the starch content in sticky rice that makes it sticky.  It is traditionally steamed, not boiled, to give it a light, sticky texture.   Sticky rice requires less water to grow than regular white rice and it can be grown on hillsides and uplands as well as in lowland paddies.  Sticky rice takes longer to digest than regular rice.  It is believed to give you more energy for a longer period of time.  Buddhist monks in Laos typically eat just one meal a day and the people give sticky rice to the monks as donations called alms, to keep them fuller longer.  You can watch this tradition of the sticky rice being given to the monks in the town of Luang Prabang, where they reside in Buddhist temples.  Each morning the orange robed monks walk barefoot down the main street.  This is where they encounter the generosity of the people as they kneel on the ground, in front of the temples.  Donors quietly rise and place a ball of sticky rice in the monks’ pouches as they pass by.  What the monks receive as donations will be what they eat for the day.  Sticky rice is the center of every Lao meal and served in a cute little bamboo basket with a lid called, “Lao Aep Khao.”  A piece of rice is always first taken, then rolled into a small ball and dipped into a tomato chili sauce or eggplant chili sauce, to begin the meal.  The sticky rice is also used as a scoop, to enjoy with any of the number of Lao dishes served alongside the rice.  Usually the first bite is reserved for honored guests or the elders.

The second staple ingredient in Lao cuisine is padaek; a strong, fermented fish sauce, unique to Laos and northern Thailand and Cambodia. It is simply what makes a Lao dish, Lao.  It often has little chunks of the fermented fish in the sauce, which has been fermenting anywhere from one to five years.  It is a strong and pungent sauce, yet strangely, not at all fishy.  Something miraculous happens in the fermentation process when it is made properly.  The use of padaek in the cuisine is what is known as the fifth taste, or umami.  It is common to see jars of padaek fermenting away in villages across the country.

The third component of Laotian cuisine is known as the balance of flavors.  Usually the ingredients are ground together using a heavy mortar and pestle.  The flavors are: spicy, salty, sweet, sour and umami.  A delight for the palate!

Of course there are other influences on the cuisine as well.  The Chinese brought numerous dishes, but most notably, noodles and soy sauce, both of which are widely used in the cuisine.  Noodles are the only food in Laos eaten with chop sticks.  Otherwise, you would use a spoon as the main utensil in your right hand, and a fork to push the food onto the spoon, in your left.  (That is if you are not simply eating with your right hand, which is probably the most common way to enjoy your Lao meal.)  Vietnam introduced pho, a noodle soup, to Laos.  Thailand contributed a variety new spices and ingredients to blend.  Many people around the world love Thai food, which very well, may actually be Laotian food.  Some of the dishes, especially in northern Thailand, are indistinguishable from its Lao neighbor.  The French also brought many new food staples to Laos such as: potatoes, corn and sweet peppers and it is the French baguettes and pastries that are most loved.

This week I was thrilled to have a couple of new friends over for this Lao International Cuisine meal.  A couple months ago, I attended a weekend seminar for travel bloggers called, “The Women in Travel” summit.  The seminar was fantastic and I met several exceptional women.  I was thrilled when Megan, from HelloMeganO.com and Jennifer, from Worldonawhim.com, suggested that it would be fun to get together for a meal.  They would get a chance to understand more about what I do with International Cuisine, as they are always looking for new blog material.  I was honored to have them over, I hope you will check out their websites as well.  Megan writes about fun and unique things to do in and around Los Angeles and also has a unique sort of bucket list with a time frame that gives 101 things to do in 1001 days.  One of Megan’s 101 things to do is to learn about a new cuisine.  I hope I helped her mark that off her list with Laos.  Jennifer gives all kinds of tips and tricks for spontaneous travel.  Her specialty is cultural festivals, mainly in Europe.  She may have just convinced my husband and me to go do just that, and get traveling.  We are thinking maybe Spain and a few other countries in the area, perhaps in September and October, Thanks Jen!

So let’s eat a Lao meal

The Menu

Sin Savanh (Lao Beef Jerky)

Jaew Mak Keus (Eggplant Dip)

Khao Niew (Sticky Rice)

Laab (Minced Beef Salad)

Tam Mak Houng (Spicy Green Papaya Salad)

Ping Gai (Grilled Chicken)

Oa si khai (Lemongrass Chicken)

Khao Poon (Coconut Noodle soup)

Dessert

Kanom Krok (Coconut Cakes)

We set the scene with a terracotta jar, serving double duty.  It was placed to represent the Plain of Jars in Laos and also the famous jars they make their beloved rice whisky in, called Laolao.  The Plain of Jars will be an UNESCO world heritage site once the area is cleared of UXOs.  The area consists of thousands of giant, stone jars scattered around the plain of the Xiangkhoang Plateau.  The majority of the jars are made of sandstone.  Why the jars are there is shrouded in mystery and there are many different theories.  The most believed theory is that they were used for burial purposes, where the jars may have been used to distil the bodies before cremation.  However, Lao legends tell a story of giants who were ruled by a king, that created the jars to brew and store huge amount of lau hai. (Lau means alcohol and hai means jar.) Another theory is that they were used to collect monsoon, rainwater water for caravan travelers.  Once the area is safe from UXOs, archeologists will have a chance to examine the giant jars much closer and perhaps solve the mystery.

The table was also set with elephant shaped oil burners, as elephants are the national animal and the scent from the burning oil was plumeria, representing the national flower.  We placed a few little boats to signify the main mode of transportation along the Mekong River and its tributaries.  The table was square and low and we sat on the floor, as would be customary there.  Typically in Laos the tables would be round, small tables are added and placed next to each other, depending on the number of people.  Sticky rice is available on each one.  They serve the meal all at once, family style, as opposed to in courses.

We began with a ball of sticky rice and a dip into the spicy eggplant dip called, jeow mak keua.  The dip had a lovely smokiness to it and was a little spicy having been made with a Thai chili.  In general Lao like their food spicy, yet balanced.

Another dish served was beef jerky.  Drying fish and meats is common place in Laos, especially in areas where they lack  refrigeration.  The marinade used for the jerky comprises all the flavors of Laos: hot chili, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, a little sugar and fish sauce.

Laab was another dish on our table and it may have been my favorite.  It is a minced beef and herb salad.  They eat laab, often times raw, made with different meats and fish.  This was a grilled version and it was awesome; bursting with flavors from the various herbs and spices.  Laab, aside from sticky rice, is considered to be the national dish of Laos.

Another salad  on the menu was a refreshing and addicting, spicy, green papaya salad.  It also contained  the flavors of Laos and provided a tantalizing burst of flavors.  I learned that green papaya is not an unripe papaya, it is in fact its own species, called green papaya.

Grilled chicken, called Ping Gai, was another dish we had.  It was just little chicken legs that had been marinated in the balanced flavors of Laos.  They were cooked on the grill until tender and were so delicious.

Of course a soup was also served, as would be customary, with nearly every meal in Laos.  This was called Khao Poon.  The broth was made from chicken, lemongrass, coconut milk, tomatoes, and other spices.  The noodles were vermicelli.  The noodles were served in a bowl with the broth and the fresh greens and meats were served in a large basket, allowing you to choose what you wanted to include in your soup.

Another one of my favorite Laos dishes is the lemongrass chicken.  I actually forgot to cook this dish for the main meal.  We decided to enjoy it as dessert (since my original attempt at the coconut cakes was not successful.)  Lemongrass stalks were made into little baskets to hold the ground chicken mixture.  Once deep fried, it was served with a peanut sauce and worked out to be a lovely dessert.

As I mentioned, my original attempt at the coconut cakes for dessert was not successful, but my second attempt, after the fact was, (Sorry girls!)  They were crunchy on the outside, creamy on the inside and delicious.  It turns out, I just did not have enough flour in my first mixture so they never cooked properly in the middle.  I added a bit more flour and the problem was solved.

It was so much fun having Megan and Jen over for our Laos meal.  I hope to do it again on another journey.  We sent them on their way with a bamboo plant for good luck and of course, leftovers.  As we say goodbye to Laos, we do so with the hope that they get more support to safely remove the UXOs.  It remains one of the few places in the world to visit that has had little influence from the west.  It is said to be enchanting and beautiful with a special mist that only lies at the base of the mountains, along the Mekong River.  I would love to experience a mystical float down the Mekong one day.

Had you ever heard about the “Secret War” in Laos?

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Both Niger and Nigeria get their names from the magnificent, River Niger.  How the river got its name, remains a mystery.  It is a very unusual and most important river to both countries.  The Niger River is the third largest in Africa, after the Nile and the Congo.  It is nearly 2600 miles long.  What makes the river so unusual, is its route.  The river’s source is only 150 miles from the Atlantic Ocean in the ancient rock of the Guinea Highlands, but instead of heading toward the ocean it flows away from the sea, into the Sahara Desert.  It is a crescent shape and makes its turn near the ancient city of Timbuktu, in Mali.  It then flows south, though Niger, Benin and Nigeria, where it finally ends, at the Niger Delta, in the Gulf of Guinea of the Atlantic Ocean.  It also floods each year along its route, making a marsh area that is valuable for farming, fishing and wildlife.  The river is known to be clear, with very little silt.

Both countries are located in West Africa.  Niger has seven neighbors: Libya to the northeast, Chad to the east, Nigeria and Benin to the south, Burkina Faso and Mali to the west and Algeria to the northwest.  The country is landlocked, with eighty percent of the land, covered by the Sahara Desert.  The land area of Niger is the largest in West Africa, however, most of the population lives in the far west and south of the country.  The country’s nickname is “The Frying Pan of the World.”  Yes, with its subtropical climate, it is one of the hottest countries in all the world.

Niger gained Independence from France in 1960 and has since had five constitutions and three periods of military rule.  Since a coup in 2010, Niger has become a democratic, multi-party, state.  The population, of nearly 19 million, lives in rural areas.  The capital city, is now Niamey, located in the southwest corner of the country.  Prior to 1926, Zinder was the capital city.  The economy is based on subsistence crops, livestock and uranium mining.  Niger’s population is made up of several ethnic groups. The three largest are: the Hausa, Zarma-Sonrai and the Tuareg.  The Tuaregs are often referred to as the” Blue people”, for the indigo, dye-colored clothes they wear, which stains their skin.  They have been one of the ethnic groups that have been historically influential in spreading Islam to the region.  Islam is the prevalent religion of Niger with eighty percent Islam and the balance mostly Christians.  French is the official language, along with ten others commonly spoken.  Most of the population speaks their indigenous language as their first language.

Unfortunately, Niger faces extreme challenges.  Aside from being one of the poorest nations on earth, it has one of the highest birthrates in the world.  Each Niger woman has on average, seven children.  The median age of the population is a very young, 15 years.  The literacy rate is only 28 percent; one of the lowest in the entire world.  Poor education, lack of healthcare, environmental degradation, overpopulation and drought all add to these challenges.  Most recently the government has had to also deal with the Islamic terrorist, jihadist group called, Boko Haram that is wreaking havoc on its border with Nigeria.  The country, in its landlocked position, faces additional challenges from turmoil all around it.  While the country does get some assistance from other nations, much work needs to be done to pull its citizens out of poverty.

Despite all the hardships that the people of Niger face, they go about their daily life and have celebrations and festivals that are deeply rooted in their histories.  Nearly every ethnic group in the region comes from an empire that ruled the area at one time or another.  They have many traditions.  The Salt Cure Festival and Guerewol Festival are two important ones in the country.

Niger also has some very important national parks; one in the north called, Air and Tenere National Nature Reserve and one in the south, where the W National Park has the most important population of the rare, West African lion, and the one of the last populations of the Northwest African cheetah.  Other wildlife includes elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and warthogs.  The Niger River is also home to the endangered, West African Manatee, as well as 250 fish species; twenty of which are found nowhere else on the planet.

The main staple crops are millet and sorghum.  These are made into stiff porridges and enjoyed alongside sauces, soups and stews.  Rice is also available and grown in the marshes.  The soups and stews are typically made of vegetables and peanuts, as meat is somewhat scarce.  The river provides fish as a needed protein and beans are also popular.  Like many African countries they like a bit of spice in their cuisine.

Nigeria also gets its name from the River Niger.  Aside from Niger to the north, its neighbors are: Chad to the north, Cameroon to the east, Benin to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the south.  Unlike its neighbor Niger, it is one of the wealthiest countries, due to oil and other mineral resources.   It is part of OPEC and the twelfth largest producer of oil in the world.  It accounts for 85 percent of the government’s revenue. Despite its richness, 62 percent of the population lives in poverty.  This is due to mismanagement and corruption.

Nigeria is the most populated country in all of Africa and eighth most populated in the world.   It is home to nearly 190 million people.  It is believed that one of five Africans, is of Nigerian descent.  Its nickname is “The Giant of Africa.”  The population of Nigeria is made up of more than 250 ethnic groups.  The largest and most politically influential are:  the Hausa, the Fulani and the Yoruba.

English is the official language, as they gained Independence from Britain in 1960.  However, more than 500 languages are also spoken.  The religious makeup is: 50 percent Muslim, who live mostly in the north, and 40 percent Christians, who call the south home, and the balance is a mix of indigenous beliefs.

The divide between the north and south continues to be a problem for the government.  The current president, Buhari, a northerner, elected in 2015, has spent two long stents out of the country on medical leave.  He has recently returned and is hoping to calm political disputes that have escalated in his absence, along with making good on his promise to face the war with Boko Haram.  The country has made strides to take territory back from the Jihadist group but are now facing terror threats on soft targets.  Boko Haram is using children as suicide bombers in crowded market places.  You may remember hearing about the young school girls who were kidnapped by the Boko Haram in 2014.  Some have been found but many are still missing.  With the country in recession, the government must work quickly to make opportunities for its young population, to keep them away from religious divides and civil war.  The population average in Nigeria is also a very young, 18 years of age.

There is much work to do in Nigeria especially in regards to infrastructure, power supply, sanitation and clean water.  If the president makes good on his promises to curb and squash corruption, there should be plenty of money to be used on these most important projects.   There are other opportunities in the large cities.  For example, “Nollywood” as it is called, is the second largest producers of movies behind India’s Bollywood.  Telecommunications, along with finance and information, are growing industries in Nigeria.  Many of these growing industries are located in Lagos, the largest city in all of Africa.  It is the financial hub and commercial capital of the country.  Lagos used to be the capital city, which was moved to Abuja in 1991. Lagos sits on the Atlantic coast, has many beaches, including the Ancient Slave Port of Badagry, which was also known as, “The Point of No Return.”  Today the area serves as an important place for reflection.

As we look into the cuisine of these two West African countries, they are very similar to the region as a whole.  They both use millet, sorghum, cassava, corn and rice as staple ingredients. Protein sources, like meat and chicken, are available to the wealthier people in the countries.  Fish from the River Niger, like carp, Nile perch and catfish, are all loved by all.  Melon seeds, which come from a gourd, somewhat shaped like a watermelon, called egusi, are a source of protein as well.  They are not only delicious, when toasted, but are used as a thickener in soups and stews.  Fruits, like mangoes, pineapple, oranges, melons and bananas, are available in the tropical areas.  Yams are an important crop in the eastern areas.  Peanuts are also a common ingredient in the cuisine, as is spice; they like it hot.  Alcohol is not consumed in the Muslim areas of the countries but local beers are enjoyed in the South of Nigeria.  Palm oil is the most used cooking oil in the region.

So let’s enjoy a Nigerien/Nigerian Meal

(just click the name or picture for the recipe)

The Menu

Starter

Suya (Grilled Spicy Meat)

Madagasikava is what the country is called in their native language, Malagasy.  The name Madagascar is likely a mistake made by the Venetian explorer Marco Polo, back in the 13th century.  It is believed that Marco Polo thought he was referring to Mogadishu, when he wrote Madagascar, in his journal.  The letter “c” is not used in the Malagasy language.  However, the error was made and that is what this island nation is called today.  It was also known for a time as St. Laurence, after a Portuguese explorer, who landed on the island on that day in 1500.  Sometimes the island is referred to as the “Red Island”, because that is the color of the soil in many parts of the island where slash and burn agriculture, has left the land bare.

Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world.  It is located in the Indian Ocean, off the southeast coast of Africa.  The island nation includes numerous peripheral islands, as well.  The main island is about 1000 miles long and 350 miles wide.  It is believed that this island split originally from the prehistoric supercontinent, called Gondwana.  Then some 165 million years ago split from Africa and 88 million years ago separated from India.  Due to this most unique circumstance, native plants and animals have evolved in relative isolation from the rest of the world.  It is a biodiversity hot spot.  Some ecologists refer to it as the eighth continent.  Over 90% of its wildlife is found nowhere else on earth.  Its closest neighbors are the islands of Mauritius to the east, Comoros to the northwest and Mozambique, the nearest mainland, located to the west.

It is believed that the first human settlements occurred between 350BC and 550AD by Austronesians who arrived on the island in outrigger canoes from Borneo.  Other groups followed over time.  There are 18 or more subgroups considered to be Malagasy that make up the majority of the population.  The largest are the Merina of the central highlands.  Each subgroup has contributed to the cultural heritage of Madagascar.  Beginning in the early 19^th century most of the island was ruled as the Kingdom of Madagascar, by Merina nobles. The monarchy collapsed in 1897, when the Island became part of the French colonial empire.  It remained in the hands of the French until they gained independence on June 26, 1960.

Since independence, they have had four major constitutional republics.  Constitutional governance was just recently restored in January 2014, when Hery Rajonarimampianina was named president.  This was after the international community deemed the election fair and transparent, since corruption has been a major problem in this country.  The population is over 22 million.  It is estimated that 90% of the population, live on less than $2 per day, making Madagascar one of the poorest nations on earth.  They hope that ecotourism and agriculture, along with investments in education, health care, and private enterprise, will lift the people out of poverty.

The two official languages are Malagasy and French.  Antananarivo is the political and economic capital of Madagascar.  It is located in the highland region, near the geographic center of the island.  It was founded as the capital in 1610.  The main religion is Christianity, along with traditional beliefs, which have been passed on by their ancestors.  The sacrifice of the Zebu (a species of humped cattle that is used for meat, milk and work,) is a method to appease and honor the ancestors.  Islam is also practiced by some seven percent on the island and was first brought there by Arab and Somali traders in the Middle Ages.  More recently Hinduism was introduced and is practiced by a small minority of the Indian population.

Madagascar has lost nearly 90 percent of its forests.  It is struggling to find a balance between the environment and traditions of its people.  It also suffers from destructive cyclones.  Some of the wildlife, like the lemur, which may be their most famous animal, is on the verge of extinction.  There are over 100 known species and subspecies of lemur that are found only on Madagascar.  There are a number of other mammals that are endemic to Madagascar, such as the cat-like fossa.  Some researchers believe that Madagascar is the origin of chameleons, since they are home to two-thirds of the world’s species, including the smallest chameleon known to exist.

Madagascar is home to nearly 15,000 plant species, of which, 80 percent, are found nowhere else in the world. Three quarters of the 860 orchid species and six of the world’s nine magnificent baobab tree species, are only found in Madagascar.  These trees can reach 36 feet in diameter and 98 feet tall.  There is an area in western Madagascar called “The Avenue of the Baobabs.”  It is a very popular destination for visitors from all over the world.  Some of these trees are estimated to be 800 years old.  The Malagasy call them renala, which means “mother of the forest.” It has 165 of the known 170 palm species, nearly three times as many species then found in all of mainland Africa.  The iconic, giant travelers palm is featured in the national emblem.  Despite this area being a popular tourist destination, it has not been declared a national park and there are no gate fees or visitor centers.  Many plants in Madagascar are used as herbal remedies.  The drugs vinblastine and vincristine, were made from the Madagascar periwinkle, and are used to treat Hodgkin’s disease, leukemia and other cancers.  Healthcare in Madagascar is found mainly in the urban areas, leaving the vast majority of the population to find help from traditional healers.

Madagascar is blessed with natural resources, which include agriculture and minerals.  Agriculture, fishing and forestry are the backbone of the economy.  They are the world’s supplier of vanilla beans, cloves, and ylang-ylang (the oil of which has many medicinal properties.)  Coffee, lychee fruit and shrimp are also important products for export.  Most of the population works in agriculture.  Madagascar currently provides half of the world’s supply of sapphires, which were only recently discovered in the late 1990s.  There are many mining projects underway and there is hope that oil and gas may give a big boost to the economy.  One can only hope that the relatively new government will end corruption and make the right choices for the people of Madagascar.

As we look into the cuisine of Madagascar, it is mainly influenced by what is available locally and of course the French.  Southeast Asians, Africans, Indians and Chinese all have influenced the cuisine as well.  Rice is certainly considered the mainstay and served with nearly every meal.  All sorts of sauces, called laoka, are made to accompany the rice.  Typically a sauce will be enhanced with the flavors of ginger, onion, garlic, tomato, vanilla, salt and curry powder.  Beef, chicken and pork are available, along with all sorts of seafood found along the coast.  Vegetables, like green beans, cabbage, carrots and onions, are abundant.  Also in the arid south and west, cassava, sweet potato, yams and taro root are staple ingredients.  Peanuts are often used in the dishes, as well.  All types of fruits, both temperate and tropical, are found and loved in the cuisine. The food is typically served with a condiment called sakay on the side, which is a spicy sauce made from red or green chili peppers.  It is added to the dish after the food is cooked so the individual can adjust the heat, according to their preference.

Street foods are also popular and they are called mofo, which means, bread.  These treats can be made plain, with coconut milk or with fruit.  There are endless combinations of mofo.  The fried fritters are made from a sweetened rice batter and flavored with chopped greens, such as watercress, onions, tomatoes and chilies.  This style is called mofo sakay, meaning, spicy bread and is how we began our Malagasy meal.

So let’s enjoy a Malagasy Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Mofo Sakay (Spicy Bread)

Salad

Lasary Avocat (Avocado Salad)

Soup

Lasopy (Pureed Vegetable Soup)

Main Course

Romazava (Meat Stew with Greens)

Served with Sakay (Spicy Condiment)

Dessert   

Vanilla Bean Fruity Clafouti (Cherry Custard)

We set the table with a colorful cloth that had flowers and palms on it, to represent the biodiversity in Madagascar.  We added vanilla beans, cloves and coffee to signify their main exports and of course a picture of a lemur. (Our cat Buddy sort of reminds us of a lemur, with his great big eyes!) Beautiful orchids completed the setting.

The first course was the typical street food described above, called mofo sakay.  We loved these little, fried, spicy treats.  We enjoyed them with an ice cold beer. They make a few different beers in Madagascar, the most popular is called “Three Horses Beer” or THB.  A popular non-alcoholic drink  is called ranonapango, which is made in an unusual way; after a pot of rice has been overcooked, boiling water is added to the pot to get the flavor.  The water is then chilled and served cold.  Some say it is an acquired taste.  But speaking of drinks, rum is the most popular alcohol consumed and is made from sugarcane.  When a new bottle of rum is opened, a capful is thrown in the corner of the home, to honor their ancestors.

Up next, we enjoyed an avocado salad.  We used the avocado as the vessel to hold the onions and diced tomato.  It was lightly dressed with a little olive oil and lemon juice and a dash of vinegar.  It was a light and lovely salad.

For our soup course, we had a hearty, pureed vegetable soup, called lasopy.  This vegetable soup is usually made with pork or meat bones to flavor the broth, but of course you could use a vegetable stock, if you prefer.  This soup is made with whatever vegetables are fresh and in season.  We got all of the ingredients for this dish straight from our International Cuisine garden, which is abundant now that summer is in full swing. The vegetables are cooked and then put in a blender to puree.  The soup and is served alongside a baguette of french bread and some sakay.  Their cuisine is pretty bland as cooked, until you add sakay. This is a spicy condiment made of thai chili peppers that is found on every table.  The sakay livens every dish up beautifully.

For the main course, we made Madagascar’s national dish called romazava.  This is a meat stew with fresh greens.  It is typically served over rice  and can be a one-course meal by itself.  It is hearty, as it contains three different types of meat; beef, chicken and pork.  Certainly, romazava can be made with just one type of meat,  Zebu cattle is most often used.  The greens are also very important elements to the dish.  The recipe calls for a green anamamy, which sometimes goes by the name, Malabar spinach; however, any spinach will work as a substitute.  Mustard greens are easy to come by and add a nice peppery flavor to the dish.  Paracress is a tough green that grows there.  It is known as the toothache plant and will numb the mouth completely, like a local anesthestic.  It is perhaps this green that makes the dish famous as the national dish.  The best we could do was to substitute arugula for the flavor of paracress, without the numbing affect.  We enjoyed this hearty stew with plenty of sakay.

For dessert, we went the French route, using one of Madagascar’s most famous ingredients, the vanilla bean.  We enjoyed a vanilla bean, fruity, clafouti.  These little custards were made with sweet cherries and the dessert was a lovely ending to our Madagascar meal.

Next, we were off to relax in front of the television, as I rented, what else, but the Dreamworks, animated film titled, “Madagascar”.

As we say goodbye to this amazing, island nation, I leave you with a couple of Madagascar proverbs:

“Cross the river in a crowd and the crocodile won’t eat you.”

and

“Life is a shadow and a mist; it passes quickly by, and is no more.

Until next time,

Mandra-pihaona, which means “see you later” in Malagasy.

Darlene

Libya gets its name from the ancient Greeks who called the people who lived on the land, Libu. The land itself was called Libya.  Located in Maghreb region of North Africa, Libya is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the north, Egypt to the east, Sudan to the southeast, Chad and Niger to the south and Algeria and Tunisia to the west.  A large portion of Libya is part of the Sahara dessert.

Some of the first known inhabitants were Berber tribes from the late Bronze Age.  Phoenicians then colonized the eastern portion of Libya in the seventh century B.C. and called it Cyrenaica, while the Greeks colonized the western portion and called it Tripolitania.  In the first century B.C., the area became part of the Roman Empire, until it was invaded by Arab forces where the empire met its demise.  In the early 16^th century, Libya became part of the Ottoman Empire.  Following hostilities between Italy and Turkey in 1911, Italy occupied Tripoli and then took over most of the land by 1914.  Libya was involved in fierce desert fighting during World War II, and Tripoli fell in 1943 when it came under Allied Administration control, after the war.  Libya finally became the United Kingdom of Libya when it was granted full independence on December 24, 1951.

King Idris was the first and only king of Libya.  He had helped the Allies by providing tribes to fight against the Axis of Evil, as well as offering valuable intelligence on German and Italian troop movements during the war.  He was responsible for uniting Libya.  During his reign, oil was discovered in 1958.  In the late 1960s while he was in Greece for medical treatment, and in failing health, he was deposed by a military coup d’état, led by Muammar Gaddafi.  The monarchy was abolished in September of 1969 and a republic was proclaimed.  Idris went into exile in Egypt, where he later died.  Despite most Libyans being born after King Idris’ reign, many demonstrators opposing Gaddafi during the Revolution would hold up pictures of the king to exalt their revered, overthrown leader.  The tri-colored flag that was used during the era of his monarchy was also used during the revolution and later re-adopted by the National Transitional Council as the official flag of Libya.

Muammar Gaddafi ruled Libya as an Islamic Arabic Socialist “Mass State.”  Colonel Gaddafi aligned himself with other dictators and fostered anti-western terrorism.  He was highly controversial and an extremely divisive world figure.  He had particularly hostile relationships with the USA and the United Kingdom.  He was blamed for the Lockerbie bombing of Pan-Am Flight 103 which killed 270 civilians.  Gaddafi accepted responsibility for the bombing and paid compensation to the families of the victims, although he maintained he had never given the order for the attack, which was carried out by two Libyan nationals.  Gaddafi ruled from 1969 until the Arab Spring Revolution when he was captured and killed in 2011, by rebel forces.   At the time of the Arab Spring, there was widespread dissatisfaction with corruption and the unemployment rate had soared to about 30 %.  The UN and NATO were very much involved with the demise of Ghaddafi and supported the rebel forces as well as an interim government known as the National Transitional Council.  Unfortunately there was not a good plan for what happened next.

Today, after the revolution, Libya is seeking to find its way through some very difficult circumstances.  In 2012, there was a deadly attack on the US embassy in Benghazi, where four Americans, including the Ambassador, lost their lives.  There have been over a thousand terrorist attacks in Libya since the fall of Gaddafi.  There is a fierce power struggle happening and ISIS/ ISIL now have a stronghold there, along with several other terrorist groups.  There are basically two governments that do not see eye to eye, so in essence there is no government.  The people who fought for freedom in the revolution, certainly did not prepare for this type of fight.  Many report that life is far worse in Libya after the fall of Gaddafi but they remain committed to fight for a free Libya.  During Gaddafi’s reign, the people received free health care, free education, free housing, free electricity and very cheap gas, yet the people were not free.  A fight for freedom and human rights is what the Arab Spring was all about.

There are many places in Libya which hold historical significance.  There are many UNESCO sites, like Tripoli’s ruins of “Leptis Magna”, where the Emperor of Rome, who was Libyan, was born.  Some say it is one of the best preserved ruins of that era and was once considered the most beautiful Roman city.  The site is large with imposing public monuments.  It has a harbor, a market place, houses, shops and residential districts.  Another impressive site in Libya is the old town of Ghadames.  This is one of the oldest, traditional, pre-Saharan cities, also known as the “Pearl of the Desert” for its stark white façade.  Built vertically, in an oasis, its ground floor was used to store supplies, another floor was for the family and then there were overhanging alleyways which created an underground network of passageways.  At the top were open air terraces that were reserved for the women.  Other UNESCO sites in Libya include the Site of Cyrene, a colony of the Greeks of Thera, with over 1000 years of history.  The Site of Sabratha, is a Phoenician trading post that was rebuilt in the second and third centuries AD.  The oldest site is the Rock Art Sites of Tadrart Acacus, located on the border with Algeria.  This site has thousands of cave paintings dating from 12,000 BC to 100 AD.  Unfortunately, this site has been struck by vandals and while UNESCO, along with key Libyan and international partners, are doing what they can to preserve the Libyan cultural, heritage site, it is a challenge in the midst of chaos and war.

As we look into the cuisine of Libya, it is a culmination of Mediterranean, North Africa and Middle Eastern cuisines.  The Italians, who only ruled briefly, left Libya with pasta, which is still loved today, especially in the west; while rice is a staple in the east.  Dried beans and grains are a fundamental part of the food of Libya.  Chickpeas are often cooked with tomato and meat sauces for couscous and often added to pasta sauce.  A thick, very spicy soup, known as Arabian soup, is widely popular, usually containing lamb or chicken.  Pork consumption and alcohol are forbidden, as Libya is nearly one hundred percent Muslim, (mostly Sunni).  The capital city of Tripoli contributes the Mediterranean influence and many seafood dishes abound.  Southern Libya leans toward Arab and Berber cuisine.  Fruits and vegetables are found in the many open air markets. There, figs, dates, oranges, apricots, watermelon and olives are abundant.  Bazin, or bazeen, is considered to be the national dish of Libya and consists of a rounded, smooth dome made of flour and water that is placed in the middle of the dish, then surrounded by tomato sauce made with mutton and generously seasoned, along with hard boiled eggs for garnish.  The dish is eaten with the right hand only, using the bazin to scoop the sauce.   

So let’s experience a Libyan meal.

The Menu

Starter

M’Battan (Fried Potato with Minced Meat)

Salad

Salata Arabiya bil Tufah Albaladi (Tomato, Cucumber, Olive and Apple Salad)

Main Course

Shakshuka (Eggs Poached in Tomato Sauce)

Served with Khubzit Howsh (Libyan Bread)

Dessert

Batikh (Watermelon with Date Molasses & Olives)

We set the table with the colors of the re-adopted, tri-colored flag; red, black and green.  (The flag during Gaddafi’s regime was a solid green, the only one in the world that had only one color.)  We placed an oil can on the table to represent this oil rich nation (80% of their GDP.)  We added citrus fruits and dates, as they grow there abundantly.  To signify their love for racing we added a formula one car and a horse, as both car racing and horse racing are important events in Libya.  The Tripoli Grand Prix was held there beginning in 1925, until 1940, during the Italian rule.  An Arab coffee pot and little Arabian cups, rounded out the setting.

Our first course was a Libyan specialty, called m’battan.  These little treats were fried potatoes, stuffed with flavored, minced meat; a combination of lamb and beef.  They were kind of like little tacos with the potato serving as the taco shell.  This was a meat and potato lovers’ delight.

Next we enjoyed a delicious salad called, Salata Arabiya bil Tufah Albaladi.  It was made with tomato, cucumber and olives but the delicious twist for this Libyan salad was the apple.  Even the dressing was made with apple and it was simply scrumptious.  This salad is often served with a can of tuna and would make a lovely, light lunch, on its own.

For the main course, we had shakshuka, a poached egg dish in a spicy tomato sauce.  (Eggs for dinner, such a concept.)  They were awesome and we scooped up those perfectly cooked, poached eggs with an “easy to make” flat bread, similar to  a pita, called Khubzit Howsh.  This meal could be enjoyed any time of day.  We savored it!

For dessert, we had a simple slice of watermelon.  This is a much treasured fruit, especially in the scorching, hot months in Libya.  Watermelons are found at road side stands and at open air markets.  We served the watermelon ice cold, with a few bits of salty olive and a little sweet and savory, date molasses.  A nice refreshing way to end our Libyan meal.

As we say goodbye to Libya, in the midst of all that is happening across the world, we can only hope that somehow, peace, love and freedom, will ultimately prevail.

I leave you with a few Libyan proverbs:

Murder rectifies nothing.

Maliciously acquired gold never lasts long.

And

Silence is the door of consent.

Until next time.

Warmest regards,

Darlene

The name Kenya likely comes from the Kikuyu tribe who lived at the foot of the mountain called Kirinyaga, which means, “Place of Brightness.” It is believed that the British who colonized the area in the mid-19th century, mispronounced the name and called the mountain “Mount Kenya” and the entire territory “Kenya” as well. Although Kenya is located on the equator, Mount Kenya has permanent glaciers on it and is the second highest peak in all of Africa.

Kenya is located in East Africa with 333 miles of coastline on the Indian Ocean to the east. Her neighbors are Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania. Sometimes referred to as “The Cradle of Humanity”, the country is part of the Great Rift Valley. Paleontologists have discovered some of the earliest evidence of man’s ancestors, dating back to 3.3 million BC.
The Portuguese arrived in 1498 and the port of Mombasa became an important resupply stop on route to the Middle East. The Portuguese gave way to Islamic control under the Imam of Oman, in the 1600s. That lasted until another European influence came along, the British, who founded the East African Protectorate (now known as Kenya) in 1895. It became a British colony in 1920. During this period, thousands of Indians were brought into Kenya to work on building the Kenya/Uganda railway line and subsequently settled there. After numerous uprisings, thousands of Kenyans were incarcerated in detention camps. Kenya finally became independent on December 12, 1963.

Today, Kenya is multifaceted with over 40 different ethnic groups. The largest group is the Kikuyu, who migrated to the region at the beginning of the 18th century. Each ethnic group has their own indigenous language and culture. About 13 percent of the population is of non-African descent. The official languages of Kenya are Swahili and English. They bridge the communication gap and unite Kenya as a single nation. The constitution of Kenya guarantees freedom of religion and worship to its people. The vast majority of Kenyans are Christians. Islam is another major religion. Followers include both Sunni and Shi’ite Muslims and are mostly found in Mombasa and the neighboring coastal regions. The small, Indian population mostly adheres to Hinduism and Sikhism. Their indigenous beliefs of traditional African religions are combined with various aspects of Christianity.

Almost all ethnic tribes have their own variety of music and dance. Traditional African beats are usually backed by drums and guitar like instruments. Contemporary music, including lingala and benga rhythms, as well as taarab music, were inspired by Arab and Indian immigrants. Another fascinating aspect of Kenyan culture is the art and artifacts crafted manually by the different tribes. Beautifully carved wood sculptures are produced locally and sold throughout the world, as well as hand-woven baskets made of sisal, Maasai beaded jewelry, musical instruments, tribal masks, paintings, prints, batik cloth, colorful kangas (African cloth) and the beautiful Kikoys (African sarongs).

Kenya is one of Africa’s most developed economies. It has gradually emerged from political instability and government corruption, although it still struggles. Terrorism has been a big problem in recent years. In 1998 Al-Qaida operatives bombed the US embassy in the capital city of Nairobi, killing 224 and injuring thousands. In 2011, Somali militants raided Kenyan coastal resorts, targeting the foreigners staying there. Most recently, in April of 2015, Al-Shabab militants massacred 148 students at Garissa College, horrifying Kenya and the rest of the world. This was just two years after 67 were killed and 175 wounded when gunmen attacked the most upscale mall in Nairobi. Yet even after these tragedies, Kenya remains a very popular tourist destination.

By far the main tourist attractions are the safaris through the 19 national parks and game reserves. Safari used to mean a hunt but thankfully today, the rifles have been mostly replaced with cameras. It is one of the few places you can still find the “Big 5” deadliest mammals: the lion, Cape buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant (which sadly have both been heavily poached there, even in the national parks.) Animals are literally everywhere, with herds of zebras, giraffes, hippos, dozens of species of antelopes, monkeys, wildebeest, (where 1.4 million migrate each year from Tanzania to Kenya and back again), hyenas, cheetahs, wart hogs and so many more. The show is up close and personal as you see lions, devouring their kill, elephants charging and leopards dragging their prey up a tree. It is raw nature at its finest. Bird watching is another huge tourist attraction, with over 1000 species found there including seas of pink flamingos, egrets, guinea hens, giant raptor kites and vultures that clean up on a kill once the lions are satisfied. Then there is a whole other arena with beautiful coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, offering some of the best diving opportunities in the world.

Another attraction is the Maasai Mara National Reserve where the Maasai villages can be found. The Masai people live in southern Kenya, along the Great Rift Valley. They are a semi-nomadic tribe whose subsistence economy relies on cattle, goats and sheep. A Maasai prayer “Meishoo iyiook enkai inkishu o-nkera” translated to English means “May the creator give us cattle and children.” Cattle and children are the most important treasures of the Maasai people. The Maasai live in villages, called Kraals, which are arranged in a circular fashion. Every person in the Maasai community has a role to play. The fence is made of acacia thorns to prevent lions from attacking their cattle. The houses, or Bomba, are built by the women and made of timber poles and then plastered with a mix of mud, sticks, grass, cow dung and urine. Nearly all the needs for food are met by the cattle they raise. They eat the meat (although they prefer to amass large herds), so they also have a tradition that collects blood from a nicked jugular on the cow’s neck, which they then mix with the cow’s milk and drink. This allows the cow to stay alive and provides a rich protein source in their diet. Recently with drought and climate change causing their herds to diminish, the Maasai have grown dependent on other foods such as sorghum, rice, potatoes and cabbage. Bright red is the traditional color of the Maasai and the shield on the Kenyan flag is in fact, the shield of the Maasai warriors. The Maasai welcome guests into their community to see their most interesting culture and traditions.

As we look into the cuisine of Kenya, maize, potatoes and beans are the staple crops. Ugali is a porridge made of maize, similar to fufu made of cassava. It is served at almost every meal along with stews. Meat, mostly goat, beef, mutton and chicken are eaten. Fish from the Indian Ocean and from Lake Victoria are enjoyed by those who live nearby. In the capital city of Nairobi, International faire is found. The Indians who were brought over to help build the railroad have had a very strong impact on the cuisine. Chapati is an Indian flat bread that is ubiquitous there. Nyama Choma is grilled meat and considered the national dish (served with Ugali.) Kenyans are big exporters of coffee and tea (chai) and Kenyans themselves consume a lot of tea, which is served with milk and sugar. Afternoon tea time is coveted there and is clearly an influence from the British. Kenya has had challenges with poverty and hunger. Drought at times, has been severe. They even have a dish called Sukuma wiki that literally translated means, “stretch the week.” Any leftover meat can be combined with greens to make another meal.

So let’s enjoy a Kenyan Chakula (meal):

The Menu
Starter
Bajias (Battered Potatoes with Seasoning)

Served with Madras (Mango Chutney)

Main
Nyama Choma (Grilled meat)

Served with
Sukuma Wiki (Greens Simmered with Tomatoes)

Irio (Potatoes, Peas and Corn Mash)

Dessert
Biskuti Ya Nazi (Coconut Macaroons)

We decorated the table with  animal print and animals that would be found on a safari. Corn and coffee were arranged as they are important agricultural items to the Kenyans.  We also decorated with orchids, the national flower of Kenya. We put benga music on the stereo, with its infectious guitar and drum beats to set the Kenyan mood.

We began our meal by saying “Chakula Chema” which means, “Bon appetite” in Swahili. Our first course was a street food called bajias, which clearly shows the Indian influence. Heavily seasoned and battered potatoes are fried and then dipped in a delicious mango chutney, called madras. The chutney has a nice kick to it, due to the hot peppers, a real delight to enjoy with a good Kenyan beer. “Maisha marefu” means “Cheers” and Kenyans are the largest consumers of beer in all of Africa.

Next, was the main course, Nyama Choma, which in Swahili means, roast meat. It is always eaten with your hands and goat meat is most often used, but beef ribs are also very popular. The preparation is simple; just a mist of salt water while cooking slowly over the flame. The result is awesome. Sometimes I find, it is the simple things in cooking that are the best and Nyama Choma is a perfect example. This dish represents the fun loving spirit of the Kenyan people. Whenever there is Nyama Choma, people gather for delicious food, music and a good, festive time.

The meat was served on a cutting board, which is customary there. Alongside it we had another very popular dish, called Irio (pronounced eer-e-o.) This dish is basically mashed potatoes with peas and corn added. The result is a lovely side dish for nearly any occasion.

We also enjoyed the greens dish, called Sukuma wiki. We didn’t add the meat to ours, but we did use left overs for lunch the next day to “stretch the week.” The dish is made of greens, kale or collard greens, both of which I happen to have in abundance in our International Cuisine garden. Onions are sautéed with tomatoes and then the greens are added. This is another keeper of a side dish; simple to make, healthful and yummy!

For dessert, fruit is often served as an end to a Kenyan meal. However, we instead had coconut macaroons; a sweet treat to finish our Kenyan feast and savor with our chai. We concluded our evening by watching the movie “Out of Africa,” starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford (a couple of our favorite actors). The movie was filmed in Kenya.

As we say goodbye to this African nation, we simply say “Asante” (thank you) in Swahili.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Eritrea and Ethiopia have an intertwined history, unfortunately not a peaceful one. They are neighbors in the horn of Africa. Eritrea was named by the Italians who colonized that area in 1890. The name was originally derived from the Greeks. It is what they called the body of water known as the Red Sea. Eritrea has about 620 miles of coastline along the Red Sea, Sudan lies to the north and northwest, Djibouti to the southwest and Ethiopia to the south. Eritrea was part of Ethiopia until it was sold to the Italians in the late 19th century. It remained an Italian colony until the British took control in 1941. In 1952, the United Nations federated Eritrea with Ethiopia, which was completely against the will of the Eritrean people. It took a 30 year, liberation war before the Ethiopians left Eritrean soil. Although Eritrea gained independence in 1993, it has been a constant battle over territories along the border with Ethiopia.

Eritrea has had the same president, Isaias Afewerki, since her independence. Since then, there has never been an election, nor has the constitution been implemented. Eritrea has been run as a single-party, presidential republic. Basically the president is both head of state and head of government. The government uses its citizens to work mines, public work projects, and the ruling party’s commercial and agricultural enterprises. This country is referred to as the “North Korea of Africa” because of the human rights violations including the militarization of society and no freedom of speech, press or religion. People are risking their lives every day to flee the country. Some make it to neighboring refugee camps, some go across the Mediterranean to Europe and many just die trying. The government implemented a mandatory conscription for able bodied adults between the ages of 18-55, for an “undetermined period of time.” They are forced into hard labor in extreme conditions and for next to no pay. It appears no one really knows what is going on there, other than what is learned from the refugee accounts. The country does not allow international humanitarian and human rights organizations any access, nor is there any independent media. The government claims that it is working toward a path of self-reliance so that it does not have to depend on anyone else, especially the west, for trade, food or other services.

The population of Eritrea consists of nine ethnic groups, the largest being the Tigrinya. The capital, Asmara, is located in the highland plateau. The Christian Orthodox, highland culture is shared between Eritrea and Ethiopia. Historically, in Eritrea there was a division between the highland Christians and the Muslims in the lowland but war has bridged that gap. The two official languages of Eritrea are Tigrinya and Arabic, although many Eritreans also speak Amharic, which is Ethiopia’s official language. English is taught as a second language from the second grade on up in their schools. More than 75 percent of the population there live rurally, in small villages and rely on subsistence farming. The country actually has many resources; gold, potash, zinc, copper, salt, oil and natural gas and fish. But war has taken its cruel toll on the infrastructure, land and the people.

Ethiopia is a large, landlocked country and makes up most of what is known as the horn of Africa. The country has made arrangements with neighboring Djibouti for its trade, instead of Eritrea, because of their war torn history. Ethiopia also got her name from the Greeks. The name Ethiopia, means “burnt faces.” Ethiopia’s other neighbors are Somalia to the east, Kenya to the south and Sudan to the west and southwest

Ethiopia is the only country in Africa that was not colonized. They managed to win the fight against the Italians in 1896, which preserved the country’s independence. The Italians however, briefly occupied Ethiopia from 1936-1941.

The capital city of Ethiopia is Addis Ababa, which means “new flower” in Amharic. Located at an altitude of 7726 feet, it is the third highest capital in the world. Seventy percent of Africa’s mountains are located in Ethiopia and yes, they even get snow. Lake Tana is the source of inflow to the Blue Nile that meets with the White Nile in Sudan, to become the Great Nile, flowing all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. Lake Tana supplies 85 percent of the water to the Great Nile.

Ethiopia has vast agricultural potential due to its fertile land, diverse climate and normally, adequate rainfall. The land does suffer from periodic droughts and its poor infrastructure, especially in the highlands with unpaved roads, makes it difficult to move products. The number one export crop is coffee and it is believed that it originated there. Both Ethiopia and Eritrea have a coffee ceremony, a common ritual. It lasts for at least an hour, with at least three servings. It would be considered rude to leave early or not accept a serving. The server starts a fire and roasts green coffee beans while burning frankincense. The server may walk the roasting beans around and fan them so everyone can enjoy the aroma. Once roasted, the beans are ground with a mortar and pestle, and then placed in the pot, called a jebena. Water is added and the jebena is removed from the fire. The coffee is then ready for serving after a brief brewing period.

Ethiopia was ruled by a monarchy, known as the Solomonic Dynasty, with close ties to the Orthodox Church, for nearly 1600 years. In 1974, the monarch was overthrown by a communist military regime called “the Derge.” In 1991, the Derge was forced out and today the government is run as a federal parliamentary republic. They have nine ethnically based administrative regions. There are, however, over eighty different ethnic groups that call Ethiopia home, with just as many indigenous languages. The Oromo, Amhara and Tigreans make up over 75 percent of the population.

Ethiopia, Eritrea and Djibouti are home to the area where “Lucy” was found. This area was home to some of the earliest hominid populations and Lucy’s skeletal remains provided a missing link in human evolution. Truly the cradle of civilization, there is an extensive history to be learned from these areas. The national epic, “The Glory of Kings,” was compiled by six, Tigrean scribes, who claimed to have translated the text from Arabic to Ge’ez. The story is found in I Kings of the Holy Bible. The Ethiopian version is the premise for the monarchy and significant to nearly all religions.

Over thirty years ago Ethiopia’s famine was world news. I vividly remember the pictures of starving, emaciated children with bloated stomachs and mothers trying to keep flies off their babies but with no energy left to shoo them away. It was tragic time, beyond comprehension and millions died horrible deaths. Today Ethiopia is on the mend with a 10 percent growth rate. The numbers of people in poverty are declining and the government is hoping to bring their country into a “middle-income” state by 2025.

You may be wondering why I combined these two countries. I did so because they enjoy the same food, they may call it something different but they use the same spices, same spiced butter, and Injera, that spongy bread made from teff. I also recently saw a program called “Breaking Borders.” A news correspondent and a chef go to areas of conflict to get people from opposing sides to sit down for a meal and discuss how peace can be obtained. I do believe a dinner table is a beautiful way to start a dialog and I love the concept. This is also the basis for our Journeys on International Cuisine; bringing the world together one country at a time.

So let’s eat Eritrean and Ethiopian Cuisine:

The Menu
Berbere (Spicy seasoning used in the cuisine)

Niter Kibbeh (Spiced clarified butter)

Injera (Spongy bread)

Doro Wat (Chicken Stew; the national dish of Ethiopia)

Mesir Wat (Lentil stew)

Zigni (Beef Stew; the national dish of Eritrea)

Ayib (Cheese)

Timatim (Tomato salad)

Habesha Gomen (Greens)

Dessert
Coffee & Popcorn

We decorated simply with the national flowers for Eritrea (Gerbera daisies) and Ethiopia (Calla lilies.) The meal was served on a giant communal tray lined with Injera bread with all the dishes served right on top of the bread. We placed the tray on a low table and sat on the floor as would be customary there. We would begin with hand-washing. The food is eaten with the right hand, you are not supposed to touch your lips with your fingers, just the food, and never lick your fingers. I began with gursha, a gesture I made to my husband to offer him food to put in his mouth. This is very common in both Ethiopia and Eritrea and is a sign of respect. The larger the piece offered, the more the person respects you. The Injera (bread) is used as the utensil. You use it to scoop up the food on the tray. It’s messy, there is no way around it, but it’s kinda fun. The bread is delicious; it has a sour taste, soft and spongy texture and perfect with the spicy “wat” stew. The bread is made from teff, a tiny grain that means “lost.” It is the smallest known grain and it is called lost because if you drop it, it would be lost. For a tiny grain, it is a powerhouse of nutrition and also gluten free.

The dishes are made with a very spicy mixture called, berbere. If you make it yourself, you can control the heat, but we are talking exceptionally spicy. The ayib (a basic curd cheese) and the timatim (a tomato salad) are served along with the stews to help minimize the heat from the berbere seasoning. The greens were sautéed in the amazing nitter kibbeh (a spiced clarified butter) that I found myself wanting to put on everything, (like the popcorn we had along with the coffee for dessert.) The butter is very addictive!

All the wat or stew dishes have a base made from lots and lots of onions. The secret to the outstanding taste in these stews or wats is the sweet, caramelization process that occurs as the onions cook. The doro wat is probably the most well-known African dish and for good reason. It is outstanding, you really need to try it.

The Zigni dish, which is considered the national dish of Eritrea, is often times served with spaghetti. This is of course, the Italian influence, and is served that way in Ethiopia as well. We had it just with the Injera and enjoyed the tomato based, spicy, beef stew. (We had the leftovers with pasta). The vegetarian lentil stew was also amazing. Bottom line, we loved this spicy, rich, earthy food.

We ended the meal with the some coffee and yes, popcorn smothered in that “oh my gosh,” clarified butter.

As we say goodbye to Eritrea and Ethiopia, we do so with hope that these neighbors will learn to live in peace and that the government of Eritrea will realize that something is seriously wrong when your people are fleeing in droves. Perhaps a few natives from each country will use this week’s Journey to share a meal and start the dialogue toward reconciliation.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Djibouti pronounced (Ji-boot-ee) is the third smallest country on the African continent behind Gambia and Swaziland. She is located on the east coast of the Horn of Africa. Her neighbors are Eritrea to the north, Somalia to the south, Ethiopia to the west and Yemen is located across the strait of Bab el Mandeb, just to the east. The strait is known as the “Gate of Tears” due to the tricky navigational skills required to get across it. This strategic location separates the Red Sea from the Gulf of Aden and is an important trans-shipment location for goods entering and exiting the east African highlands.

Djibouti was formerly known as French Somaliland from 1896 until 1967, when it then became the French territory of the Afars and Issas, from 1967-1977. These two ethnic groups make up the majority of the population of Djibouti today. She became independent from France on June 27, 1977 which is celebrated each year as National Day. The official languages are French and Arabic, although Afar and Somali are more commonly spoken.

The climate is very dry with prolonged spells of scorching heat. They mainly have just two seasons, hot and hotter. May to September is the hottest season with daytime temperatures between 100 and 120 degrees F. Due to the weather and lack of precipitation, (receiving only a meager 5 inches per year), they really don’t grow much, so they always have a large trade deficit. They import nearly all of their food other than live animals. Even though the country sits of the strait, Djiboutians are not known as a seafaring people, but rather are descendants from nomadic and pastoral traditions. Goat and camel herds are prevalent in the interior of the country.

Due to Djibouti’s proximity to the Arabian Peninsula, it is believed that the region’s Somali and Afar tribes became the first Africans to adopt Islam. The country is an Islamic state and 94 percent are Muslim. The other six percent are Christians. Djiboutians are known to be tolerant toward other religions and social customs.

The capital city, Djibouti, bears the same name as the country itself and is where the majority of the population lives. The city was built on coral reefs and has views of the sea from much of the city. Djibouti does have a few islands off the coast which are known for their excellent diving and snorkeling areas.

The region is also known for its unique environment for studying volcanic, geothermal and earthquake activity. It sits over a zone where three tectonic plates converge. The area is very seismically active, with nearly 600 tremors per year. However, only a small percentage, if any, are felt.

Djibouti is also home to the lowest depression in Africa and the third lowest in the world. Lake Assal sits at 512 feet below sea level. The lake is ten times saltier than the ocean and is said to be an ethereal blue surrounded by picturesque volcanic hills. The salt has been mined for trading and export. A bit farther into the countryside lies another lake on the border with Ethiopia. Lake Abbe is in the center of the Afar Depression and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is the location where the hominid skeleton named Lucy was found, even though Ethiopia gets credit for the land from which she was unearthed. This was a major discovery in the science of human origin. The skeleton has been dated back to 3.5 million years ago.

Since the terrorist attack that occurred in the United States on September 11, 2001, Djibouti has allowed the United States to maintain a military base there as part of the War on Terror campaign. The United States pays the government $38 million per year to utilize the base for drone operations. The French also maintain a base there, which was part of the agreement for Djibouti’s independence.

Djibouti is an important link and trade hub especially for landlocked Ethiopia. Aside from the international port facilities, another important source of revenue is the Addis-Ababa Railway. The railway was recently upgraded and is jointly owned by Ethiopia and Djibouti. This railway system is what delivers the daily supply of the mild stimulant called khat (or qat). Although many countries have banned khat as an illegal drug, Djibouti’s government continues to support the trade. The khat trade employs a tenth of the population and contributes a windfall to the government in taxes. Nearly all the men in Djibouti chew khat on a daily basis and it is considered an important part of the culture there. It creates a slight euphoria, suppresses appetite and increases concentration. Despite all this their unemployment rate is over fifty percent, which is often times blamed on this widespread khat use.

Djiboutians love soccer and also a game called Pétanque, which is somewhat similar to bocce ball. At night you will find them playing under the street lights, all over the city. Running is also a popular trend and some great marathoners have come from the region.

The cuisine of Djibouti is influenced by her neighbors and of course France. Middle Eastern spices ranging from saffron to cinnamon are commonly used and they like their dishes spicy. Djiboutians often eat three meals a day with the midday meal, called qado, being the largest. Schools and work places are often closed for a couple of hours in the afternoon when the sun is the most intense. Stews with meats from camel, goat and sheep are served with a flat spongy-like bread, called canjeero. Rice, lentils and pastas are also common dishes, served with a hot berbere sauce or a buttery one, called niter kibbeh.

The main celebrations are centered on religious holidays of the Muslim faith. Often whole animals are slaughtered for these special occasions. The feasts are typically “halal”, basically meaning that pork is forbidden and animals must be slaughtered by a Muslim in a certain way, while giving thanks to Allah.

So let’s eat Djibouti cuisine:

The Menu
Appetizer
Samosas with African Sauce (Meat and Onions in Pastry)

Main
Fah-Fah (Goat Soup/Stew)

Served with Canjeero (Flat Bread)

Dessert
Djibouti Banana Fritter

We decorated our mat with the colors of the flag: blue, green, red and white, along with the coat of arms, which represents the two major ethnic groups of Djibouti. We also had candles decorated with camels and a wooden carved antelope to represent the one forest they have remaining in the country. For our Djibouti meal we sat on a mat on the floor, which would be customary there. We began with a hand washing ritual, as we would be eating with our right hand, which is the tradition but taking care not to rinse off my temporary, henna tattoo, (extremely popular in Djibouti.)

The first course was our appetizer, called samosa. This is typically a street food and many other countries have a similar version. Our little fried pastries were made with meat and onions and dipped in a pepper sauce. They were superb.

Next was the main course called fah-fah. I was actually given a piece of goat meat as a gift from one of my neighbors to use for this occasion. The spicy stew was fantastic and if you have never had the opportunity to try goat, you should (assuming you are not a vegetarian.) It really is a delicious meat. I have another story about the best taco I ever ate that happened to be goat, but I will save that one for another time. The stew was served with canjeero, a very interesting flat bread that has a unique, spongy texture. It works well to sop up that scrumptious stew sauce but would actually be just as lovely with a little butter, honey or jam. It was yummy!

For dessert we enjoyed some banana fritters. Perhaps it seems I have been using a lot of bananas lately but hey, I love them and they did not disappoint; served warm and dusted with a bit of powdered sugar.

As we say goodbye to Djibouti, we decided to put on a good African beat and got up to: “Shake shake shake, shake shake shake, shake______!” (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)

Until next week,
I leave you with a typical Djibouti greeting which is simply “Nabad” (Peace.)
Warmest regards,
Darlene

The Ivory Coast, is what the translation of her name is, from French to English. The name came from the profitable ivory trade which took place there during the seventeenth century. The trading of ivory did not last long, as it quickly brought about a massive decline in elephants. The trade virtually died by the beginning of the eighteenth century. Located in West Africa, Cote D’Ivoire is bordered by Ghana, Liberia, Mali, Burkina Faso and Guinea and the southern border is the Atlantic Ocean.

Although Cote D’Ivoire has a border on the Atlantic Ocean, the area is rough and without any sheltered harbors along its coastline. This was a blessing for the Ivorians, as the Europeans never made a permanent trading post for slaves there. She was a French Colony from 1843 until 1960, when Ivorians finally gained their independence. The French considered Cote D’Ivoire their “pet” colony and often referred to her as “the Jewel of West Africa.” After gaining Independence, she became politically stable and economic prosperity followed. However, that only lasted until the death of Dictator Felix Houphouet-Boigny in 1993. The country has suffered civil unrest, with many coups since then and has been unstable ever since.

The official language is French, although with nearly 60 different ethnic tribes living in the country, many indigenous languages are also spoken. The country is divided into four different cultural regions: the Akan in the Atlantic East, the Kru in the Atlantic West, the Voltaic in the northeast and the Mande in the northwest.

The capital city is officially Yamoussoukro but it is Abidjan that is the most populated and serves as the administrative center of the country. About half the population lives in urban cities. The constitution guarantees freedom of religion to all citizens. There is a mix of Muslims (about 40 percent) mainly in the north, Christians (about 35 percent) mainly in the south and those that have their own indigenous beliefs, making up the balance.

One of the legacies left by the Dictator Boigny is the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, Yamoussoukro. It is a replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. It took four years to build and cost 300 million US dollars. It is the largest church in the world with an indoor seating capacity of 18,000, yet only a little more than three hundred worshippers attend the Sunday services. It was only filled to capacity twice. Once for the blessing of Pope John Paul II. This service was postponed for a year as the Vatican was not exactly pleased that its crown jewel was overshadowed by an African president’s replica. The Pope insisted the building could not be taller than St. Peter’s Basilica. The architect obliged by lowering the dome height but then placed a massive cross on top, making it 100 feet taller than the Vatican. The other event that filled the church was the funeral of the Dictator Boigny.

Today the church is maintained by clergymen appointed by the Pope, at the cost of $1.5 million dollars annually. “The size and expense of the building in such a poor county with an annual GDP of $650 is a delicate matter, to say the least” said a Vatican official. The Pope did stipulate that a hospital be built for the poor, which finally opened in 2012. Surprisingly, the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, has somehow survived amongst intense civil unrest and violence.

About 75 percent of the population makes a living in agriculture, as the Ivory Coast is the largest exporter of cocoa beans in the world. They also export a substantial amount of coffee, bananas and palm oil. They are working on diversifying their economy, to be less dependent on agriculture, as price fluctuations in those markets are very unpredictable.

The different ethnic groups each have their own music and dance rituals, which are key to the storytelling of their ancestry. One of the biggest festivals of the Ivory Coast is called “Fetes de Masques”, a festival of masques. Many villages participate in this celebration to pay homage to the forested spirits, embodied by the villagers, who wear colorful costumes and masks (which showcases their fine woodworking skills.) The festival is held each November in a town called Man.

The Akan people celebrate the yam festival. They are part of what is known as the yam belt, which includes Nigeria, Ghana, Benin and Central African Republic. This yam belt provides 94 percent of the world’s yams. The festival serves several purposes. It is a memorial service for the dead and a celebration of thanksgiving for a good harvest. It is also a ritual of purification to keep away evil spirits. Finally, it celebrates the original Akan chief, who is said to have risked his life by taking the first taste of a yam in the kingdom. (“I yam not afraid,” he said)

The cuisine in Cote D’Ivoire is similar to its West African neighbors, with tubers, such as yam and cassava, ground nuts, millet, corn and rice, used commonly. Meat is a luxury, however chicken is served at special occasions. Fish and fried plantains are common in the coastal areas, while the familiar fufu, served with spicy stew sauces, is considered the national dish. They like it spicy there, using very hot peppers in most dishes.

The meals are often cooked in what is called a calabash. This vessel is used for many purposes including: washing hands before a meal and doing dishes afterwards, cleaning clothes and bathing children as well as being played as a drum. Often wealth is determined by the number of calabashes a household possesses. Subsistence farming is also an important means of income to many Ivorians, selling their extra produce in the open village markets.

They have small, open-air restaurants, called Maquis, where authentic Ivorian cuisine is served.  Attiéké is a classic dish of fermented and grated cassava, served as a side dish with Kedjenou, a slow cooked chicken stew. This dish is made in a tightly sealed clay cooking pot, called a canari and placed on hot coals. The canari is gently turned or shaken as the chicken cooks, making sure that no steam escapes. The result is exceptionally tender chicken, cooked in its own rich juices.

So let’s eat Ivorian Style:

The Menu
Soup
Velouté d'Ignames (Cream of Yam Soup)

Salad
Cucumber and Courgette Salad

(Cucumber and Zucchini Salad)

Main
Kedjenou (Spicy Chicken Stew)

Served with
Attiéké (Fermented Cassava)

Dessert
Melon Fingers (Slices of Melon served with Lime)

We set a mat on the floor and decorated with the colors of the flag; orange, white and green. Orange represents the savanna grasslands, green represents the coastal forests and white represents the country’s rivers. We also used elephant figurines, as they are considered the national animal of Cote D’Ivoire.  Pictures of African masks donned our candles giving the sense of flickering tribal spirits. We began with a vessel containing warm, soapy water to wash our hands and we used only our right hand to eat, as would be customary there.

The first course was a delicious cream of yam soup, chosen in honor of the Akan yam festival. We loved it. I was only able to find red yams at my local grocery store but yams, from the yam belt, come in many different colors.

The next part of the meal was served all together. The main dish called Kedjenou, was awesome. This method of cooking, without allowing steam to escape, makes the chicken incredibly tender and sumptuous. I went to an African market to find the fermented cassava, called Attiéké. I bought it frozen but it is also available dried, in a box. It was steamed and had a similar consistency to couscous. However, it has a unique sourness to the flavor that was a lovely complement to the Kedjenou. We also prepared a cucumber and zucchini salad, which was basically pickled in a sweet vinegar with some red pepper flakes. We often make a similar salad of cucumber and red onion in vinegar, but this one was much better. The sweetness added to the vinegar created a perfect tang and the zucchini added a wonderful crispness. (I will keep this salad in mind, as I always seem to have an abundance of zucchini in my garden.)

For dessert, we enjoyed a simple slice of cantaloupe, with a touch of lime. Fruit is commonly eaten as dessert there. I also loved that our dessert matched the colors of their flag.

As we say goodbye to Cote D’Ivoire, we do so with hope that this African country too, will find peace and prosperity. After dinner we put on a movie called “Black and White in Color.” It was filmed on the Ivory Coast and won an Academy Award in 1976, for Best Foreign Language Film.

Until Next Week,
Au revoir (Goodbye, in French, pronounced uh reh vwah)
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Central African Republic is located in the heart of Africa. It is a landlocked country surrounded by Cameroon, Chad, Sudan, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and the Republic of Congo. Colonized by the French in 1894, Central African Republic along with Chad was known as the colony of Ubangi-Shari, named for the largest of many rivers in the area. In 1910, Gabon and Middle Congo, along with Ubangi-Shari, became the French Equatorial Africa. After World War II and a rebellion, the French granted self-government and on August 13, 1960, Central African Republic gained full independence from France.

The official language is French, however most speak a pidgin language called Sango that emerged after colonization. With over 80 ethnic groups in Central African Republic, many also speak their indigenous languages. The country’s topography is mostly rolling plateaus with numerous rivers. Flooding is common during the rainy season and savannas cover most of the land. In the northeast, it is arid and in the southwest, it is covered in tropical rainforest. The climate is tropical; hot with dry winters and hot with wet summers. It is also home to the Bangui magnetic anomaly, which is a local variation in the Earth’s magnetic field, centered at Bangui, the capital. It is one of the most intense crustal magnetic anomalies on the African continent.

This country, blessed with water for hydropower and natural resources like diamonds, uranium, timber and gold, has struggled and continues to struggle. There has been coup after coup. The country today is completely unstable and in a brutal civil war. You don’t hear much about Central African Republic in the news, but the world needs to take a closer look.

The civil war began two years ago, on December 10, 2012. The rebel coalition, called Séléka, accused the government of President Bozizé of failing to abide by peace agreements signed in 2007 and 2011. Many of the rebels were previously involved in the Central African Republic Bush War. The rebel coalition, mostly made up of Muslim minorities, managed to take control of many towns and villages and then ultimately, the capital city, Bengui. President Bozizé fled and the leader of Séléka declared himself president. According to Amnesty International, the Christian anti-Balaka coalition committed several massacres against Muslim civilians, forcing thousands of Muslims to flee the country. Kids who used to go to school and play together are now literally killing each other. The population of the Central African Republic was around 4,500,000 but today nearly 1,000,000 are displaced because of the civil war. The hatred that has brewed in this country is reminiscent of the horrific tragedies in Bosnia. A new interim president, a woman named Catherine Samba-Panza, elected by the national transitional council back in January of 2014, has tried to get other countries involved to bring stability to hers and bring the offenders to justice. She remains in power until new elections are held in January 2015, but she will not run. The country remains extremely dangerous and volatile. We can only hope that with the new elections and outside help, Central African Republic will find peace.

A great many citizens relied on subsistence farming; growing cassava, sorghum, peanuts, sesame, corn and squash. Today with the ongoing civil war, they are going hungry, in need of medical care and are forced to either live deep in the bush or in make-shift villages. There, at least some humanitarian efforts are being made to help feed the displaced.

As we look to make our meal for Central African Republic we do so with a heavy heart and a prayer for peace. I need to remind myself that even with all the tragedy going on there, the people still lovingly share a meal and give thanks for what they have. We make this meal with that in mind.

So let’s eat:

The Menu
Starter
Ngukassa Soup (Plantain soup)

Served with
Fufu (Cornmeal porridge)

Main Dish
Maboke de Capitaine (Steamed Fish in Banana Leaf)

Dessert
Beignets de Bananes (Banana fritters)

We set the communal cloth with the colors of the flag. Red is for the blood shed by the people of the nation to achieve independence. Blue is for hope and faith. Yellow represents tolerance and the hospitality of the people. We wish that somehow these icons of hope, faith, tolerance and hospitality will serve to unite them as a nation once more.

It is customary to eat with your right hand and sit on the floor for your Central African Republic meal. We began with a delicious plantain soup. It was thick and hearty and was eaten with what is called fufu. You may remember, I tried making it in the past without success. This time I made it with cornmeal and it turned out just fine. Fufu is a rather bland type, thick porridge, which is used to sop up the soup, stew or sauce. A piece is taken from the ball of fufu and an indentation is made with the right thumb, creating a scoop that is dipped into the soup. It certainly helps to fill the belly. I imagine this may be all that one in Central African Republic may eat in a given day.

For our entree, I included a fish dish, as fish are found in the many rivers there and are a great source of protein, when they can get it. We loved the fish, tilapia cooked in the banana leaf, as it gave a subtle hint of banana flavoring. The onion paste and tomatoes were the perfect complement. I served the fish in the banana leaf along with some plain, steamed white rice and fried plantains, which is how it would traditionally be served. It was a fabulous combination of flavors.

For dessert, we had an amazing fried banana fritter. It is simply, banana, fried in an egg batter, with a hint of lime. This served as the perfect ending to our Central African Republic meal. Our beverage, enjoyed throughout the meal, was a refreshing, hibiscus and ginger tea.

As we leave this week’s journey, I can’t help but ponder this country’s situation. It has wonderful natural resources, (I actually think the fighting is more likely over the resources than a true religious war, but that is just my gut feeling). Whatever is the cause of her extreme volatility and chaos, we pray they sort it out, sooner, rather than later.

I offer you a few Central African Republic proverbs to reflect upon:
The powerful should mind their own power.
No man rules forever on the throne of time.
The elders of the village are the boundaries.
In the moment of crisis, the wise build bridges and the foolish build dams.

Until next week
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Formerly known as Upper Volta, (named by the French), her name was changed after gaining independence in 1960 to Burkina Faso. Burkina means “Free Man” in Moore’ and Faso means “Land” in Dyula, so together it means “Country of the Free Man”. The citizens are called Burkinabe, a multi-ethnic nation with at least 60 ethnic groups and as many languages. This land was part of the Great Mossi Empire, the path of several historical migrations, before the whole region was annexed by the French in 1896.

This landlocked country is located in the middle of West Africa. It is geographically in the Sahel, the agricultural region between the Sahara Desert and the coastal rain forests. Her high population and limited natural resources result in poor economic prospects for the majority of her citizens. As such, Burkina Faso is listed as one of the poorest nations in the world.

She borders Benin, Mali, Niger, Togo, Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana. Unrest in Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana has resulted in thousands of seasonal farm workers unable to find work in neighboring countries. This has taken a real toll, as one of the main exports of this country has been labor. Historically migrant workers from Burkina Faso went to work in the gold mines and plantations of Ghana and the Ivory Coast. The country is however, a large producer of cotton, backed by the Monsanto Corporation and nearly 80 percent of the crop is grown from genetically modified seeds. They also export gold and animal products.

The country is mostly rural and the population is highly mobile; a nomadic society. Changing cultivation and trade has made it that way. Most all of the agriculture is for sustenance, leaving only ten percent available for export. The boundaries set up by the colonial powers made little sense as the borders split people of the same ethnic groups, while enclosing people without any affiliations. Despite this, the country enjoys a pretty peaceful society, without any major conflicts. Perhaps it is due to a cultural practice called the “joking relationship”. Members of different tribes and ethnicities, whether strangers or friends, have a tradition that when they happen to meet, they insult each other in a teasing and humorous way. It is absolutely forbidden to take any offense. This approach creates a brotherhood, friendship and respect for one other.

French is the official language used in schools, the army and the media, however since most Burkinabe do not attend school, they speak their ethnic languages. Moore’ is what 40 percent of the population speaks, as a high number of citizens are Mossi. In the capital city of Ouagadougou, pronounced “woo-go-doo-go”, only 50 percent of the kids go to school and in the rural areas only 20 percent. Some of the children walk hours each day from their villages to school and then back home again.

As one of the poorest nations, they receive quite a bit of aid from other countries and charitable organizations. Vaccine programs have reached even the most remote villages and some medicines are made available for purchase in the village markets. Traditional healing methods are still widely available, using herbs, roots and barks to heal.

The country is tolerant concerning religion with 45 percent practicing traditional beliefs, such as animism, 43 percent practice Islam, with the balance being Christians. Each ethnic group has their own beliefs and specialists like earth priests, fortune tellers, healers and rainmakers. Witchcraft and magic are important in everyday life. These practitioners are chosen by tradition or called by a spirit.
Sacrifice of chickens, guinea fowl or even bigger livestock is the core ritual of traditional beliefs; these are offered to a wide range of spiritual forces. Many of these ethnic tribes have elaborate celebrations that can last for several days or even weeks to honor the deceased in the afterlife, elevating them to the sphere of their ancestors.

A big tourist attraction in Burkina Faso is Lake Tengrela, a small lake that is filled with hippopotamuses, which are sacred according to local legend. Because of this, it is said that they never attack humans. Speaking of tourist attractions there is a place called Loropeni, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which has ruins dating back 1000 years. It is believed to have been a trading post for the gold trade. The site encloses about two and a half acres and there is still much to be uncovered and discovered there.

Burkinabe cuisine is similar to many other West African countries and is based on staple foods such as sorghum, millet, rice, maize, peanuts, beans, yams and okra. Tô is the most common food. It is a dough-based meal which is made from millet, sorghum or corn and mixed with a sauce containing vegetables, such as tomatoes, carrots and peppers. On special occasions it is consumed with some type of meat like mutton or goat. In the urban areas, chicken is commonly cooked in the streets and called “poulet-bicyclette” which means, chicken on a bicycle, since that is how they are brought from the villages into town. Many local men drink what is called dolo or chapalo, a home-made millet beer, made mostly by women and sold in local markets. It is said that husbands get a first taste for free but then are expected to pay. A non-alcoholic drink is called Bissap, a sour tasting drink made from dried hibiscus flowers, is what I chose for our meal.

So let’s eat Burkinabe style:

The Menu

Appetizer
Chips d’Igname (Yam Chips)

Main Course
Cuisses de Poulet a la Puree de Patates Douces
(Chicken Thighs with Mashed Sweet Potatoes)

Served with French Green Beans

Dessert
Banfora (Fried Pastry with Pineapple)

Drink
Bissap du Burkina Faso (Burkinabe Hibiscus Flower Drink)

We set the table in red and green with a yellow star representing their flag. We decorated with staple products from their daily life, using yams, peanuts, hibiscus flowers and cotton. Traditionally you would sit on the floor and eat only with your right hand.

We began our meal with a simple appetizer of fried yam chips, they were absolutely delicious. We sipped our Bissap during the entire meal and it grew on us with each sip. It is a bit sour but leaves you craving more and we could see how it is loved as a perfect thirst quencher on a hot day in Burkina Faso.

For the main course we had chicken thighs and mashed sweet potatoes and green beans on the side. It made me wonder why I don’t mash sweet potatoes or yams more often, simple to make and perfectly delicious. The chicken was cooked in those familiar African flavors of peanut butter, tomato, coconut milk and a small chili, added for a little kick. My husband and I have both been amazed at how much we love these flavors together. At first, what seemed like such an odd combination, has become one of our favorites. This chicken dish is now added to the list! The French green beans were quickly fried al dente’ having a nice, light crunch and seasoned with onion, ginger, garlic and chili.

For dessert, we enjoyed Banfora. It was like a puffed pancake that was sweet and had bits of pineapple in it; simply divine! I had a couple left over which we enjoyed just as much with coffee the next morning.

The Burkinabe people are known to be very friendly with greetings that are ritualized and can seem quite demanding from a traveler’s perspective. They just want to get to know you so they will take your hand and they’ll ask, “How are you? And your family? And your job? And your journey?” And if you ask in kind, perhaps just for a moment, as you share a cup of tea, you will feel, not like a tourist but a friend.

I leave you with a little Mòoŕe lesson
“Yam Kibaré” Which means “How are you?”
And your response: “Laafi Bala, Ya Yamba? I am fine and you?
And then you are friends!

Until next week,
Warmest Regards,
Darlene

Three hundred and sixty five beautiful beaches, one for everyday of the year, is how Antigua is described.

Christopher Columbus, the first European to visit the Island, named it Antigua pronounced “An Tee Ga” after an icon in a cathedral in Seville, Spain in 1493. The Caribbean Islands located in the West Indies are part of what is known as the Leeward Islands. Antigua was also known as “Waladli” so named by her early inhabitants.

In 1632 a group of Englishmen established the first permanent European settlement on the island. Located on major sailing routes, Antigua was considered to be Britain’s “Gateway to the Caribbean.” Sugar became Antigua’s main crop and regrettably with it, came slavery.

Barbuda, has been intimately tied to Antigua and is a small island just 30 miles due north. She has very few inhabitants and is a home to a frigate bird sanctuary, the national bird. Barbuda is known for its pink and white sandy beaches, abundance of ship wrecks and beautiful reefs. During the days of cultivating sugar, this island was leased to the Codrington family. It was used to grow food and to house additional slaves for the sugar plantations on Antigua.

Antigua and Barbuda gained their independence from England in 1981. Together Antigua and Barbuda are considered a dual nation. Standard English is the official language, however Antiguan Creole, a hybrid of West African languages mixed with English is also spoken. Today 91% of Antigua’s residents trace their roots to Africa, others are British, Portuguese, Lebanese and Syrian. This nation is even smaller than Andorra, measuring 108 sq miles and inhabited by only 80,000 people.

As the majority of Antigua’s land was used to grow sugar, food was imported from the Americas and Britain. The main influence on the cuisine came from the ancestry of her people as well as her occupiers, bringing some creole specialties to the islands.

Antigua's African influence is evidenced in their national dish called fungie, (pronounced “foon-jee”) a porridge made from corn flour. The pepper pot, called Tomali ((Toma means sauce, and ali a clay pot) is also a traditional dish which is a thick stew flavored with salted meats, peppers, spinach, squash, peas and okra. The early islanders would also throw any other “protein of the day” (including a rodent called Agouti) into the mix and cook the pot on a fire for days. Other popular dishes include ducana, a sweet potato dumpling wrapped in banana leaves, macaroni pie, salt-fish, seasoned rice and of course the abundant local seafood.

The Arawaks, early dwellers of the island, get credit for introducing Antigua’s most popular fruit, the Black Pineapple. It is said to be the sweetest you have ever tasted. Today you can find pineapple crops throughout the islands.

For our meal, in the interest of full disclosure, I must say that I originally prepared salt-fish and ducana for this journey but I was not happy with my results. I decided I could not leave this beautiful place with a less than deserving meal. So I hunted for additional recipes and came up with a fantastic new meal. (I hope you agree.) Please know that I am in no way suggesting that salt-fish and ducana are not wonderful dishes, I was just not satisfied with my attempt to make them. I would love for anyone of you to share your experience with Antiguan dishes with me as well.

The Menu
Served with Pineapple Rum Punch

Salad
Pineapple Salad with Sweet Rum Drizzle

Main Course
Grilled Red Snapper Kabobs with Mango-Pepper Salsa

Served with

Coconut Rice and Peas

Dessert
Banana Flambe'

There is something about the Caribbean beat of calypso, steel band and reggae that instantly puts a smile on my face and a spring in my step. Add a nice rum punch and one can't help but feel the rhythmic spirit of Antigua while preparing their cuisine. I set the table using tropical fruits for our centerpiece, as they influenced every dish on our menu.

We started off with the pineapple salad, in honor of their sweet black pineapple. Ours was served in a pineapple boat and drizzled with a mixture of honey and rum; it was succulent and delicious.

For the entree, a local fish, red snapper, was used to make the kabobs. It was marinated in yogurt with mango for just a brief time, then onto the skewer with mango and onion chunks. Our kabobs were placed on a hot grill for a few minutes per side. Once cooked to a perfect tenderness, the kabobs were served with an unbelievable mango and red pepper salsa. The sweet and tart contrast in the salsa was surprisingly refreshing. Along side the kabobs we enjoyed coconut rice with young English peas.

Our grand finale was dessert; banana flambe', served with a rich vanilla ice cream... need I say more?

I leave you with a couple of lines from Antigua’s national anthem:
“Each endeavoring, all achieving.
Live in peace where man is free!”

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Algeria is the 11th largest country in the world, located in northwestern Africa and spreads some 920,000 square miles. It gets its name from the capital city “Algiers” located on the Mediterranean Sea. Algeria's history goes back more than 1.8 million years. The indigenous people, called Berbers, were pushed away from the coastline by their frequent invaders. She was occupied by the French in 1830 and only gained independence July 5th of 1962. Algeria's enticing neighbors include; Libya, Mali, Mauritania, Tunisia, Niger, Western Sahara and Morocco.

Algerian cuisine, known for its flavorful and often spicy seasonings, takes it cues from the Berbers, Turks, Arabs, Spanish and French. Some Algerian essentials include “ras el honout”, a North African spice mix that can contain from 8 to 100 spices and varies by region. Other common spices include saffron, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, cumin, cilantro or coriander, garlic, onion and mint.

Most of Algeria is a vast expanse of drifting sands in the Saharan Desert. Eighty percent of the population is Arab while the remainder is Berber. The population is predominantly Muslim, so pork is not consumed, nor is alcohol.

Couscous is considered the national dish of Algeria. In Arabic is it pronounced “Kuskusi”. It is commonly mistaken as a grain but it is actually a pasta made with granules of durum wheat called semolina and water. The dough is pressed through a sieve to create tiny pellets. Making it from scratch is becoming a lost art, as it is easily found packaged. In Algeria they have a special cooking vessel called a Quadra el ta’am or a Couscousier. This special pot consists of two compartments, the bottom section is used to cook the sauce, meat and vegetables. The upper portion is like a colander which allows the steam to permeate the couscous, infusing the flavors of the sauce and meat below.
Lamb is the meat most often consumed in Algeria. The most popular Algerian recipe is merguez, a special handmade spicy lamb sausage that originated along the Atlas Mountains and has worldwide notoriety.

Another cooking apparatus used is the tadjine, handmade in parts of Algeria. It is used to cook their many specialties, especially in the western part of the country. The Algerian tadjine is different than the Moroccan tagines as it is a flat, clay griddle, used to make flat breads and even Algerian pancakes. They use decorative tagines that look similar to the Moroccan versions but are glazed to showcase their vibrant culinary creations.

The chosen flavors of Algeria….

The Menu
Appetizer
Hmiss  (Roasted Pepper Dip)

Kesra Rakhis (Algerian Flat Bread)

Soup
Chorba/Shorba (Chicken and Chickpea Soup)

Main Course
Lahm Lhalou (Lamb Stew with Prunes)

Dessert
Maltši Tamr (Stuffed Dates)

For the setting, I chose the coffee table. In Algeria you would likely eat at a low to the ground table called a tbla or mida. I placed a copper basin of perfumed water on the table to wash our hands. In Algeria , the food is eaten with the thumb, forefinger and middle finger of the right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean. One should never use more than three fingers; that is considered rude and a sign of overeating. Food is always passed to the right.

The meal began with the crispy flat bread and roasted red pepper dip, reminiscent of chips and salsa. It was refreshingly spicy. Next we tried the chicken and chickpea soup. I loved both the texture and flavors of this unique soup. Our main course was lamb stew and prunes served over couscous. We savored each sumptuous bite. We finished our meal with stuffed dates and a hot mint tea; a perfect ending to an outstanding and exotic meal.

I leave you with a couple of Algerian proverbs:

Lahna yegleb laghna which means, peace wins over wealth

and

Ki nchouf ham el nass nansa hami – When I think of the others misfortunes, I forget mine.

Warmest regards, Darlene