Search Results for: Montenegro

Montenegro means, “Black Mountain.”  The name is fitting, as much of the land is covered with dark, mountain forests that appear black from a distance.  This small, Balkan country located in southeastern Europe has many neighbors: Serbia to the northeast, Kosovo to the east, Albania to the southeast, Croatia to the west and Bosnia and Herzegovina to the northwest.  Montenegro also has a magnificent border along the Adriatic coastline which boasts 117 beautiful beaches and several charmed island villages.

Montenegro has recently been listed as the hottest new tourist destination on many top travel sites.  The country features many outdoor activities and about 60 percent of it is more than 1000 meters (3,280 feet) above sea level.  Winter snow sports, such as skiing and snowboarding, are very popular, along with climbing, in the warmer months.  The mountains include some of the most rugged terrain in all of Europe.  Of course all water sports are available along the beautiful Adriatic Sea, along with white water rafting in the clean and glorious rivers including through the breathtaking, Tara Canyon, the second deepest in the world, after the Grand Canyon.

Montenegro has a rich history, dating back to the Iron Age, when the Illyrians were the first known people to inhabit the region.  By 1000 BC, the Illyrian culture had spread across most of the Balkan region.  The Romans came next and established the Province of Dalmatia, which included what is now Montenegro.  The most important Roman town in the region was Doclea, where archeological finds indicate it was a central area for trade.  At the decline of the Roman Empire, Montenegro was on the dividing line between the Roman Empire and the Byzantine Empire and was therefore split.  After many battles and changes of rule and power, large portions of the region fell under the control of the Ottoman Empire.  It remained under the Ottomans from 1496 to 1878, although Montenegro had a unique autonomy with the Ottoman Empire.  A battle occurred on May 1, 1858, when a Montenegrin army of 7,500 defeated over 15,000 Ottomans.  This forced Montenegro’s independence in 1878, although only briefly.  This important victory is immortalized in song and literature.

During World War I, Montenegro was occupied by Austria-Hungary and then became part of Yugoslavia.  After the dissolution of Yugoslavia and much turmoil in the region, Serbia and Montenegro formed a union under the Belgrade Agreement.  This agreement allowed for a referendum on the independence of Montenegro in three years.  On May 21, 2006, a vote for independence was held resulting in a 55% threshold, which narrowly passed by a mere 2300 votes.  It is this date in May that is celebrated as the new Independence Day in Montenegro.

The official language there is Montenegrin, which is the same name they call the people.  Serbian, Bosnian, Croatian and Albanian are also spoken. The population is diverse and a mix of all the neighboring countries, with the majority being Montenegrin and Serbian.  Tourism, steel and aluminum production and food processing, represent the countries major industries. Serbian Orthodox Christianity is the most popular religion today, however Muslim is second, followed by Albanian Catholics.  Religious institutions have guaranteed rights and are separate from the state.  Its crossroads of diversity over the centuries have allowed for a unique and peaceful existence between Muslim and Christian people.

Montenegro has numerous heritage sites, ranging from the pre-Romanesque, Gothic to the Baroque periods.  The coastal region is known for its many religious monuments.  It is home to medieval monasteries, with walls that are decorated with thousands of square meters of frescos.  Montenegro’s largest city and capital is Podgorica.  Along with the former royal capital, Centinje, these are two very important city centers for both culture and art.  Montenegro was the first country in the world to have a national printing house that was set up in Cetinje, back in 1493.  The equipment was brought in from Venetia.  The first south Slavic book was printed in 1494 (Oktoih.)  Several medieval manuscripts, dating from the 13^th century, are housed in Montenegrin monasteries.

As we look into the cuisine of Montenegro, it is largely influenced by region and by history, making for a delicious combination.  Generally speaking, the food has an emphasis on fresh, local vegetables, quality meat and seafood and of course, features the amazing olive oil for which the region is known.  Influences come from Turkish, Greek and Italian cuisines.  Italy, most notably influenced the dry-cured ham, similar to prosciutto, called prsut, from the small town of Njegusi.  This has a special flavor imparted because of the way the winds sweep over it while the meat while it is drying.  It is considered the national meat of Montenegro.  This small town is also known for its soft cheese that goes along perfectly with the prsut.  Cheese in oil is another popular treat that goes amazing well with figs, prosciutto and Montenegrin bread.

Seafood is popular all along the Adriatic coast, just as it is for its neighbor, Croatia.  Black risotto, made with squid ink, is a traditional dish, as is white or red buzara, which we made for our Croatia meal.  Grilled octopus is especially popular in salads.  Gavice, are small fishes that are floured and then fried and served headless, as a snack along the seaside.  They also have a unique way of drying fish, known as fresh air and sunshine drying.  After the fish are scaled, grilled and laid out in the hot sun, they are dipped daily in water from the sea.  When the drying process is complete, they are smoked and ready to eat.  The delicacy is stored in paper bags.  It is especially savored in winter when it is boiled and served with vegetables.

For the meat eaters, there are many choices; minced meats called cevapi, which are shaped like sausages and pljeskavica, which are shaped like burgers but are known to be humongous. The most popular meat dish however is called sac. The meat can be goat, veal or lamb and is slow roasted in ashes under an iron dome.  It is the cooking method that makes the meat especially tender.  The meat is often served alongside vegetables that are cooked with it, like potatoes and carrots.  Meat is often prepared with the use of kaimac; a cheese that is made from sheep’s milk and makes the meat very juicy and tender.

Another unique culinary technique is the way they sometimes cook chicken.  They salt a whole chicken and then place it into the body cavity of a lamb, which is roasted on a turnspit.  The chicken will also roast and be infused with the flavor of the lamb.  Some say it is the best chicken ever.

You may want to enjoy your meal with some spirits.  Wine is especially popular.  Their red is made from the vranac grape and krstac is a dry, popular, white wine.  Rakia is a grape vodka and loved throughout the region.  It has a very high alcohol content, so consume wisely.  Niksicko beer has been produced since 1896 and is their most popular.

So let’s enjoy a Montenegrin meal:

The Menu

Starter

Njeguski Prsut (Dry Cured Ham) & Njeguski sir (Cheese& Olives)

Salad

Sopska Salatu (Cucumber, Tomato, Pepper and Cheese Salad)

Main Course

Brav u Mlijeku (Lamb Cooked in Milk)

Dessert

Gibanica (Cheese and Fruit-filled Pastry)

We set the table with the colors of the Montenegrin flag; red and gold.  We decorated with sea shells, to represent the Adriatic Sea and also with the two headed eagle; their coat of arms.   We began with a toast of red wine and said, “Zivjeli” which is “Cheers” in Montenegrin.  Our first course was a chacuterie platter of dry, cured ham, soft brined sheep’s cheese and black olives.  This is one of my favorite ways to begin a meal and is popular in many countries.

Next was the sopska salad, pronounced “shopska.”  This is a very popular salad throughout the Balkans.  This version was made with heirloom cherry tomatoes, fresh bell peppers, cucumber and topped with copious amounts of farmer’s cheese.  It was dressed with an excellent, extra virgin olive oil and apple cider vinegar.  It could easily be a lovely lunch meal on its own with fresh, baked bread and a glass of wine.

For the main course, we savored the lamb cooked in milk.  The lamb, cooked with hearty root vegetables, was absolutely tender and perfectly seasoned with a touch of fennel seed.  (The milk really does work as a wonderful tenderizer.)  Garnished with parsley, this was a satisfying and delicious main course.  The red wine paired very nicely with the richness of the lamb.

For dessert, gibanica, a rich pastry, with cheese, apricot and raspberry fillings, was served.  This is a decadent dessert that was topped with confectioners’ sugar and a few fresh berries.  A hot cup of strong coffee was the perfect complement for this dessert.

The people of the Balkans are known to be incredibly hospitable.  If you are invited to their home, the gate or door will be wide open, in anticipation of your arrival.  It would be customary to take a gift, such as a bottle of wine or some chocolates.  There is also an unwritten code of chivalry that is the result of its long warrior history.  It stipulates that to deserve the true respect of the people, a person has to show virtues of integrity, dignity, humility, self-sacrifice for a just cause, respect for others and bravery.

As we say goodbye to this little gem called Montenegro, I leave you with what the English romantic poet, Lord Byron, once said about it.  “At the birth of the planet the most beautiful encounter between land and sea must have been on the Montenegrin coast.”  This is certainly why an exclusive island area called Sveti Sefan, has been chosen by Sophia Loren, Sylvester Stallone and Queen Elizabeth II, as their “go to” vacation spot.  Montenegro’s allure awaits.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Serbia get its name?

Serbia is the name for “The Land of the Serbs,” although, the actual origin of the name is unclear.  Serbia has historically had several different names: “The People’s Republic of Serbia,” “The Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes,” “The Socialist Republic of Serbia,” and from 1992 to 2006 Serbia was part of “The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.”  Today her official name is, “The Republic of Serbia.”

Where is Serbia located?

Serbia is a Balkan nation located at the crossroads of central and southeastern Europe.  Serbia sits on the southern Pannonian Plain, known for its thriving agriculture, which accounts for nearly 60 percent of the land.  It is also home to mountains and forests. 

It was once the core of the much larger territory of Yugoslavia.  However, today it is landlocked, surrounded by eight neighbors, with which they still hold a few land disputes.  Serbia’s neighbors are: Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast,  Bulgaria to the southeast, Macedonia is south, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina  lie to the west and Montenegro to the southwest.  Serbia also claims a border with Albania, through the disputed territory of Kosovo. 

The Danube River, the second largest in Europe, passes through Serbia and is an important fresh water resource for the country.  Serbia  is also the home of Europe’s largest gorge; the Derdap Gorge, through which the mighty Danube flows.  The capital city is Belgrade and it is one of the oldest and largest cities of southeastern Europe.  It is a lively capital city and known for its party atmosphere. 

A Brief History of Serbia

Serbia has been inhabited since the Paleolithic Age.  By the sixth century, several regional states were established by Slavic migrations.  It was part of numerous kingdoms such as: the Byzantine, Frankish and Hungarian Kingdoms.  In 1217 the Serbian Kingdom was recognized by Constantinople, until its fall in 1346.

During the 16^th century the entirety of Serbia had been annexed by the Ottomans, with a few interruptions by the Hapsburg Empire.  In the early 19^th century, Serbia became a nation-state, following the Serbian Revolution and was the region’s first constitutional monarchy. 

The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria on June 28, 1914 in Sarajevo, by a Serbian member of the Young Bosnia Organization, led to Austria-Hungary declaring war on Serbia.  This is considered to be the start of World War I.  Serbia suffered mass casualties during the war with estimates as high as ¼ of the population at large and 57% of the male population. 

In 1929 King Alexander, the son of King Peter, established a dictatorship and changed the name of the country to Yugoslavia.  In 1941, Yugoslavia, which tried to remain neutral in World War II, was invaded by the Axis powers.  During this time, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Serbs fled the Axis puppet state, known as “The Independent State of Croatia” and sought refuge in the German occupied Serbia. 

Historians estimate that there were over one million war related deaths in Yugoslavia.  The Ustase regime (The Croatian Revolutionary Movement) was accused of systematically murdering somewhere between 300,000 and 500,000 Serbs. This mass killing of Serbs, Jews and Romas, was considered genocide.

After the war, Yugoslavia became a one party state known as, “The Communist Party of Yugoslavia.”  Tito ruled there for nearly four and a half decades.  Eventually, due to ethnic tensions and wars, Yugoslavia broke up.  After many changes in leadership and rule, Serbia finally gained independence, (even as the last holdout of what was known as Yugoslavia,) on June 5, 2006.

Today Serbia is a parliamentary republic, and they are trying to become part of the European Union.   In 2008 Kosovo declared independence from Serbia, although the government of Serbia does not recognize the declaration.

Serbian Culture

Serbia is home to just over seven million people, which includes the autonomous region of Vojvodina, but not the population of Kosovo.  The ethnic makeup of the country, over 80%, is nearly all Serbs.  The remainder are Hungarians, Romanis and Bosniaks.  The official language is Serbian, however other languages, such as Hungarian and Romani, are spoken.  There is now freedom of religion in the country, but most, (85%) are members of the Serbian Orthodox Church.  The next largest religious group is Roman Catholic and a minority of Serbs are Muslims and Jews.

Serbia, being at the crossroads of eastern and western halves of empires for centuries, has been greatly influenced by those cultures.  Serbia is believed to have provided nearly a fifth of the Roman Emperors, the most famous being Constantine the Great.  He is credited with the introduction of Eastern Christianity or Orthodoxy, in the early middle ages.  Serbia has five UNESCO world heritage sites, all of which are monasteries.   The most famous might be the Milesseva monastery, where the fresco known as the White Angel (1235) was chosen as the first satellite broadcast signal from Europe to America. It  was a symbol of peace.

Icons and fresco paintings are considered the best of Serbian art.  (Serbian art during the Ottoman occupation was non-existent.)  The country is still dotted with many well preserved castles, medieval fortifications and monasteries.  There are several important museums in Serbia, including the prominent National Museum of Serbia, founded in 1844, which houses very important Balkan works of art.

Pirot carpet is known as one of the most important traditional handicrafts in all of Serbia.  It is made in the town of Pirot, in southeastern Serbia.  It is considered to be a national symbol of Serbian culture and uses the skill of making rugs on a vertical loom.  Music, dance, theater and literature also play important roles in Serbia’s history and culture.

Serbia’s Cuisine

Serbian cuisine is influenced by the surrounding Balkan nations, especially those that were part of the former Yugoslavia.  These include a mixture of Byzantine-Greek, Mediterranean, Turkish and Oriental as well as Medieval Slavic influences.  

Food preparation is a big part of Serbia’s family traditions.  Many items, such as rakija (their famous fruit brandy), jams, jellies, avjar, pickled foods and sausages, are all made at home.  They have several national dishes such as: gibanica, (an egg and cheese pie made with filo dough,) pljeskavica, (a ground beef and pork patty), karadordena snicla, (a schnitzel,) as well as cevapi, (grilled ground meat.) 

Generally speaking, the cuisine is made up of rich meats, vegetables, breads, cheese, fresh pastries and desserts.  The flavors are generally mild, fresh and natural.  As Serbians love to eat fresh produce, the seasonality dictates what is on the menu.  The cuisine is typically only lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika.  The national drink is the famous plum brandy, called sljivovica or their homemade rakija.    There is also a strong coffee culture.

So let’s enjoy a Serbian meal:

The Menu

Apertif & Appetizer

Meze (Assorted prosciutto with cheese and hard-boiled egg)

Served with: Šljivovica (Plum Brandy- the national drink)

Salad

Šopska Salata (Serbian salad with cheese)

Main Course

Ćevapi u lepinja sa kajmakom (Ground meat kebabs in flat bread with Kaymak)

(Also called Ćevapčići, this is one of the national dishes of Serbia)

Dessert

Suva Pita sa Orasmima (Walnut Pie)

We began to set the scene with raspberries and plums, as Serbia is the second largest exporter of each.  Also a jar of paprika was added and a statue of a vampire, representing the two Serbian words that made it into the English language.  We set the table with gold silverware, as an old Serbian legend says that in the 14^th century, meals in the Serbian palace were eaten with golden forks and spoons.  A cross was placed in the scene, to represent their Eastern Orthodox religion.  Finally, a tennis ball was added to represent the number one tennis player in the world; Novak Djokovic.  (Interestingly most Serbians last names end in “ic.”)

We began our meal with a toast, “Ziveli” which means, “Cheers” in Serbian.  It was accompanied by music, laughter and the clinking of glasses filled with plum brandy.  We enjoyed the aperitif along with meze, which means “little bites” and is similar to an Italian antipasto.  Our meze consisted of prosciutto, cornichons, pickled onions, olives, hard-boiled eggs and feta cheese.  We love meze, it was the perfect appetizer.

Next, we enjoyed a typical Serbian salad that is also popular all over the region called, Šopska Salata.  This is a basic salad made with cucumber, tomato, bell pepper and onions and topped with Serbian white cheese.  It is dressed with a simple, sunflower oil and white vinegar dressing and garnished with chives.  Excellent.

For the main course we savored one of Serbia’s national dishes, Ćevapi u lepinja sa kajmakom (Kebabs in flat bread with kaymak).  Everything was made from scratch, from the bread, called lepinja, to the grilled meat kebabs that were ground using lamb, beef and pork.  I even made up my own version of kaymak, which is a creamy dairy product that you smother on top of the lepinja.   We loved it all!

For dessert, we had this walnut pie called Suva Pita sa Orasmima, which is similar to baklava.  It is a sweet bite of heaven made with ground walnuts, which Serbians consider an aphrodisiac.  We enjoyed the dessert with a strong cup of coffee to end our fantastic Serbian meal.

As we say goodbye to this intriguing country of Serbia, known for their hospitality,  I leave you with a  few Serbian proverbs: 

The wound heals, the scar remains.

He who drinks on credit, gets drunk twice.

Peace pays what war wins.

and

A good deed is the best form of prayer.

Until next time,

“Zbogom” which means, “Goodbye,” in Serbian.

Warmest Regards,

Darlene Longacre

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The name Kosovo is derived from a site on which a battle occurred in 1389.  It is a Serbian name meaning, “Field of the Blackbirds.”   The area served as the medieval center of the Serbian Empire until the defeat of the Serbian forces, at the Battle of Kosovo. The defeat led to five centuries of Ottoman rule.

Kosovo is landlocked and the smallest country in the Balkans.  Her neighbors are: Serbia to the north and east, Macedonia to the south, Albania to the west and Montenegro to the northeast.

Kosovo is a self-declared, independent country and the second newest in the world, establishing independence on February 17, 2008.  Even so, about 80 countries around the world have not yet accepted Kosovo as a legitimate country.  In 2010 the International Court of Justice ruled that Kosovo’s declaration of independence did not violate International law, but Serbia along with Russia did not accept that decision.  In the early 20^th century, Kosovo was incorporated into Serbia (which later was part of Yugoslavia.) Kosovo has a long history of inter-ethnic tensions, having been an autonomous region, on and off, throughout time.  By the second half of the 20^th century, Muslim ethnic Albanians outnumbered the Eastern Orthodox Serbs in Kosovo.  After the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Serbia responded to separatist pressure from Kosovo.  After numerous incidences against the Serbs within the Kosovo region, by the KLA (Kosovo Liberation Army), the Serbs launched a brutal attack on the Albanian population, which many considered to be ethnic cleansing.  The attack was ended in 1999 by NATO intervention.

Today the population is almost all ethnic Albanians, with a small minority of Serbs.  A few others who call Kosovo home are Bosnians, Romas and Turks.  The official languages are Albanian and Serbian.  Most of the population is Muslim, with a small minority of Serbian Orthodox.

Kosovo’s citizens are some of the poorest in Europe, with a GDP of $8000 per capita.  The war had a devastating impact on infrastructure there.  Although the country is recovering, it still suffers from an extremely high unemployment rate; nearly 31%.  The country’s economy has shown progress in becoming a market based system.  However, with an average age of only 26 years old, the country encourages emigration.  Remittances from the diaspora, most living in Germany, Switzerland and other Nordic countries, account for 15% of Kosovo’s GDP.  Kosovo does have some natural resources, such as, minerals and metals and is working on improving exports.  One of their biggest hurdles has been energy.  They recently privatized their electricity supply and are getting help from the US government to build a new power plant and rehabilitate coal power.  The euro is the official currency of Kosovo, which has helped to keep inflation low.  The Serbian dinar is used in the Serb majority communities but illegally.  It is believed there is a rather large black market throughout Kosovo.

Most people live in small towns, rurally, outside the capital city of Pristina, where subsistence farming is common.  The population of Pristina is about 400,000 and it is the largest city in Kosovo.  It has not yet been able to capitalize on tourism, but it clearly will, as one of Europe’s newest capital cities.  There are several important sites in Kosovo, many relating to the early Serbian empire, which is another likely reason that Serbia does not accept Kosovo as an autonomous state.  UNESCO sites consist of four Serbian Orthodox Christian churches and monasteries.  These represent the fusion of the eastern Orthodox Byzantine and the western Romanesque architecture. They are filled with beautiful fresco murals, representing the largest preserved gallery of Serbian medieval art in existence.

The people of Kosovo are known to be extremely hospitable and love to party, as is the case with all the Balkan states.  The capital city is emerging with numerous cafés and restaurants.  This young nation is trying hard to make a new start.  This is evidenced by a monument that simply has giant letters spelling out the word, “Newborn.” If you ask for directions, you will likely be personally taken to your destination.  Often times this will include a stop for a homemade meal or a cup of coffee, and perhaps an offer for a place to stay.  Americans and Brits are personally thanked for Kosovo’s new found freedom.  Tony Blair and Bill Clinton are national icons there.

As we look into the cuisine of this new, self-declared nation, the influence is largely a mix of Albanian, Turkish and typical Balkan food.  The food is seasonal, being heavier in the winter and a lighter fare in summer.  The quintessential dish of Kosovo is called, Flija.  It comes from Albania and is famous in the mountainous regions of Kosovo.  It is a giant pie, of sorts, with thin layers of batter that turns into dozens of crepes.  It is ladled with butter and milk solids in between and each layer is painstakingly cooked, one at a time.  It takes hours to make flija and it is done in a special pan.  The lid, called a sac, is a metal cover that is heated over the wood fire and then placed on top of the pan so it cooks, from the top down.  Other common dishes there are: burek; pies made of meat, as well as spinach and cheese, casseroles, called tave.  Peppers stuffed with lamb or beef as well as Sarma; stuffed grape or cabbage leaves.  Kebabs and rice along with bread and dairy, especially yogurt and soft curd cheeses, are important staples.  Ajvar is a spicy homemade spread of roasted red peppers (and sometimes eggplant) that is found on nearly every table, along with pickled vegetables.  Trout is also plentiful in Kosovo, coming from the many notable rivers within its borders.

So let’s enjoy a Kosovar meal:

The Menu

 Starter

Avjar (Roasted Red Pepper Spread)

Served with

Pitalke (Bread from Prizren)

Main Dish

Tave Kosi (Baked Lamb with Rice, Yogurt and Eggs)

Served with

Sallate (Orange, Lemon , Olive and Cheese Salad)

Dessert

 Kurore (Honey Dipped Treats)

We set the table with the colors of Kosovo; blue and yellow.  White stars represent the different people who call Kosovo home.  We also decorated with the coat of arms and the word “Newborn” that is so symbolic to their nation.  It was originally painted yellow but then has been repainted each year with the flags of the nations that have recognized Kosovo as an independent country. We placed a ski hat to symbolize the new ski resort they are building with help from France.  Finally we added a bunch of grapes, to represent their emerging wine industry.

We began our meal with, “T'bofte mire” which means “Bon appetit” in Albanian.  The first course was a delicious roasted red pepper spread, called Avjar.  This spread is part of every meal and is simply delicious smothered on a piece of pillowy, Pitalke bread, made famous in the Prizren region of Kosovo.  Be warned that the bread and this heavenly spread can be addicting.  Avjar is likely of Turkish origin.

For the main course, we served an interesting casserole-type dish made of tender, garlicky lamb that was smothered in a yogurt and egg mixture and cooked like a soufflé.  The result was a light, tart and delicious combination of flavors which was enhanced by adding fresh oregano.  This Tave Kivo recipe is of Albanian origin.

The salad that accompanied the Tave Kivo, was my favorite dish on the table.  It was sweet, tangy, salty and savory, all at the same time.   It was made with rounds of oranges, lemons, hard-boiled egg, and white brined cheese.  It was topped with black brined olives, mint and then was drizzled with olive oil.  I will make this salad often.

For dessert, we had a little pastry dipped in honey that was flavored with bits of raisins, apricots and nuts.  Kurore, as it is called, was a sweet ending, with a cup of Turkish tea, to our Journey to Kosovo.

As we say goodbye to Kosovo, we do so with hope that all of the world can find a way to recognize and embrace this new nation, and that they may live in peace.

Until next week,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

P.S. Have you ever tried any of these dishes?

Croatians call their country Hrvatska. Located in southeastern Europe, she is shaped like a boomerang. Her neighbors are Slovenia, Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro and Italy is just to the west, across the Adriatic Sea. She is home to over 1200 islands, only 66 of which are inhabited. Now referred to as the “New Riviera”, Croatia’s rich history and turbulent past has resulted in a fascinating and alluring country.

The country has had many invaders throughout history, which have all left a piece of their culture and tradition. Croatia was part of Yugoslavia, up until they gained independence in 1991. Prior to that they were part of the Venetian Empire, the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Ottoman Empire. Today Croats are very patriotic and take pride in preserving their folklore with dance, song and costumes. Most are Roman Catholics and the church plays a large part in the lives of Croatians.

The country has five important regions that are proudly displayed on their coat of arms (and also on their national flag), they are: Croatia, Dubrovnik, Dalmatia, Istria and Slavonia. The language they speak is Croatian, although there are different dialects in the different regions. Ninety percent of the population is Croatian, with the balance being a mix of Serbs, Bosnians, Hungarians, Slovenians, Czechs, and Romanis.

In the northwest, near the capital city of Zagreb, you will find the world’s finest concentration of medieval castles and fortifications. This is where the elite of the Austro-Hungarian Empire chose to retreat, so the castles are built in exquisite Viennese fashion. This is the place you would want to try Štrukli, a delicious cheese pastry, loved all over Croatia.

Wine in Croatia is legendary and how could it not be when it has the Istrian Peninsula, referred to as “Little Tuscany.” The longitude and latitude closely resembles their Italian neighbor. This has been a wine-making region of exceptional notoriety for over five hundred years. The bright sunshine and the fresh, cool breeze off the Adriatic is the perfect environment for grapes.

This is also where, amongst the oak trees, the coveted white truffles are found, using specially trained, truffle sniffing dogs. In fact, they get the prize for the largest white truffle ever discovered, coming in at the size of a football. If you want to try a white truffle, the season is fall. In Croatia the truffle is called tartufi, their earthy flavor is loved on eggs and fresh fuzi pasta, a real gastronomic delicacy.

Then there is the Adriatic coastline known as the Dalmatian Coast, (yes, the dog breed, Dalmatian, comes from Croatia). With over 1200 islands and 3500 miles of coastline and a true Mediterranean climate, each of the inhabited islands has their own unique history and traditions. One island called Pag, is where an aged sheep cheese, called Paski Sir or Pag cheese, is made and served on many charcuterie platters. It is world renown and loved throughout the country. Sometimes the cheese is served with a fig or grape marmalade. Many of the islands are also known for their one thousand year old olive trees. Their olive oil is revered, known for its unique spicy flavor.

The sea itself is the perfect environment for farming mussels, oysters and even blue fin tuna. Seafood is abundant along the entire Dalmatian Coast and it makes up a large portion of the Croatian diet. One dish that is famous from the coastal region is called crni rizot, a black risotto that gets its color from the ink of the cuttlefish. Yachting, sailing and fishing are popular pastimes and the entire area is a favorite amongst tourists.

The country has several UNESCO heritage sites to explore, both natural and historic. They also have 13 items on the list of “Intangible Cultural Heritage” which include: three different types of lace-making, gingerbread creations (colorfully decorated confections usually made in the shape of a heart; a famous tradition in northern Croatia), handmade wooden toys, crafted by men and painted by women, as well as different types of singing, festivals and processions. The town of Dubrovinik is known as the “walled city” and is an UNESCO site which happens to be the fictional metropolis of King’s Landing in the HBO television series, “Game of Thrones.” This is also where the dessert called rožata, a delicious caramel crème flan, was made famous.

Houses are typically small in Croatia, so people love to meet up out and about. The Café Culture is alive and well there. The Croatians are very family oriented, reserving their weekends to nurture those relationships. It is not uncommon for the elderly to live with family in their later years.

When you meet a Croatian, it is typically done with a handshake and direct eye contact and depending on the time of day, a greeting of Dobro jutro (good morning), Dobar dan (good afternoon) and Dobra večer (good evening.) Failure to properly greet is considered a major insult. If you are invited to a Croatians home you should arrive with an odd number of flowers, or a good bottle of wine or some chocolates. A host will usually introduce the women first, then the men. It is likely a prayer will be said before the meal begins and then you should wait until they say “Dobar Tek”, which means, good appetite. Your response should be “hvala” (thanks.) Make sure your first serving is small as they will insist you have a second helping.
The cuisine varies by region, as one would expect and has all the elements of its tradition and the plentiful Mediterranean fares, making Croatia an amazing place to enjoy and discover food.

So let’s eat Croatian:

The Menu
Charcuterie
Pršut (Dry Cured Ham) & Škripavac (Farmers Cheese) with Olives and Salami

Salad
Salata od hobotnice (Octopus Salad)

Main
Skampi Na Buzara (Croatian Shrimp)

Served with
Punjeni (Stuffed Arichoke)

Zagorski Štrukli (Cheese-filled Pastry)

Dessert
Rožata (Caramel Crème Flan)

We set the table with lace and used red and white checkered napkins, as the pattern is prominent in their coat of arms. We decorated with saint candles, as All Saints’ Day is a big celebration in Croatia. Pictures, flowers and gifts are left in the cemeteries to honor their loved ones. We also decorated with purple iris, their national flower and our monster shrimp. We enjoyed the meal eating continental style, fork in the left hand and knife in the right, as would be customary there.

We began the meal with an appetizer plate with prosciutto, cheese, olives and salami. As it turns out, Croatia also has all the right elements, such as the bora, which is the northern wind that perfectly salts and dries meat and salami to perfection. I was able to find a nice farmers cheese to complement the prosciutto but oh, how we longed for their famous Pag cheese. We enjoyed the appetizer plate and the olives were a lovely addition.

Next we had the most outrageous and delicious octopus salad. Honestly, this is the type of food I could eat every day of my life. It was made with perfectly cooked octopus, (strangely they add a wine cork to the water to get it perfectly tender, who knew?) potatoes, red onion, tomatoes and fresh parsley. We dressed it with a simple sprinkling of red wine vinegar, olive oil and lemon and wow, awesome!

For the main course, the next three dishes were served together, family style. We had artichokes, stuffed with flavored bread crumbs and peas. Artichokes are seasonal in Croatia and the small globe type is what you would find there. It was different from the way we normally enjoy an artichoke and perhaps a healthier version, as no butter is used for dipping. We also had the famous Štrukli, cheese pastry. I just had to make it, since it is truly loved there and for good reason. It is extremely filling however, so we just had a small piece and savored the rest as leftovers. The Croatian shrimp, called Skampi Na Buzara, were delicious. Buzara is in reference to the sauce and many things (certainly any type of seafood) can be made with this simple and delicious recipe. We loved the giant shrimp in the simple sauce made of wine, olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, bread crumbs and raisins.

For dessert we had the rožata, an amazing caramel crème flan that was perfect with a nice robust cup of coffee.

Honestly, this country has me so intrigued with its beauty, culture and cuisine. I feel a strong desire to see it and experience it first-hand. Anthony Bourdain said “Croatia is the next big thing” and I think he’s right. You may wonder why I didn’t mention the horrible war they had there in early 1990s? The truth is, that it is behind them now and they don’t like to talk about it; a tragic part of their history, best forgotten.

Until next week, (unless I am in Croatia!)
Warmest Regards,
Darlene

Bosnia, short for the regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is the heart shaped land that lies in the heart of southeast Europe. It is here that eastern and western civilizations came together, sometimes clashing, but more often enriching and fortifying each other throughout her lengthy and intriguing history. Bosnia is part of the Balkan Peninsula and gets her name from a river which flows through the country, called the Bosna River. Herzegovina is said to be named from the word “herceg,” a designation for the duke who ruled the southern part of the region prior to the invasion of the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. She has many neighbors: Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro as well as a sliver of coastline on the Adriatic Sea.

Bosnia has three main groups of people as her citizens, Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats, each with their own official language. Prior to the unspeakable war that broke out in the early 1990s, after the break-up of the former Yugoslavia, many areas of the county had mixed populations. Today, it is extremely divided. Bosniak replaced Muslim as an ethnic term to avoid confusion with the religion called Muslim. The religious mix there is 40% Muslim, 31% Orthodox, 15% Roman Catholic and 14% other.

Over time, Bosnia has been taken over by many empires; the Romans, way back in 168 BC, the Hungarian Empire, in the 1300s and then the Ottoman Empire, for the next nearly 500 years. During the Ottoman reign, Bosnians adopted varous elements of Turkish culture and many converted from Catholicism and Christianity to Islam. It was in the 19th century, as the Ottoman Empire was crumbling, that Bosnians joined the Slavs from Serbia and Croatia in an uprising against the Turks. As this was occurring, they were getting help from Austria-Hungary with the aid of Russia, which later became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Soon after, the Nazis moved in. So basically, one ruler after another, took control of Bosnia and her people. She finally gained independence from Yugoslavia on March 1, 1992.

The break-up of Yugoslavia was the beginning of the Bosnian war that occurred from March 1992 to November 1995. The atrocities and devastation that happened during that war has left the country divided and still struggling to heal from those wounds.

An assassination occurred in Sarajevo (the capital city of Bosnia) when a Bosnian Serb nationalist, named Gavrilo Princip, killed the heir to Austro-Hungarian throne. June 28th, 2014, marked the 100th anniversary of that assignation. Few could have imagined the carnage that would follow. The event proved to be the spark that set off World War I. Today the location is marked on a bridge, where it has become a popular tourist attraction. (Sometimes it’s just hard to figure what constitutes a tourist attraction.)

Bosnia, thankfully, has once again become an intriguing tourist destination, one of the fastest growing in all of Europe. What is for certain is that the people, called Bosnians, are hospitable and kind. All the Balkan states have a sort of a creed for hospitality and Bosnians are no exception. If you were to visit there today, a Bosnian would most likely invite you into their home for coffee and baklava. I suppose after such suffering, the simple things in life become the most important. Bosnians, get that concept more than most.

Bosnia has a lot to offer. It is a most beautiful country, with some of the oldest forests in all of Europe. Her lakes and rivers are stunningly blue and pristine and she has amazing ski areas to play on in the winter. Sarajevo was in fact the host city for the 1984 Winter Olympics. She also hosts many festivals. One of the most popular, in the summer months, is Bascarsija Nights.

Sarajevo`s old Turkish quarter becomes a most delightful place to be. Throughout the month of July, ‘Bascarsija Nights` offers a full program of folk dancing, opera, ballet, rock, love songs and poetry.

The cuisine of Bosnia is influenced by Turkish, Middle Eastern and other Mediterranean countries, as well as Austria and Hungary. Typical ingredients include: tomatoes, potatoes, onions, garlic, bell peppers, cucumbers, cabbage, spinach and beans. Although they use many spices in their cuisine, it is usually in a modest amount, allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to shine through. One of their favorite spices is paprika. They also use a spice blend called Vegeta quite often. Vegeta is a condiment which is a mixture of spices and various dehydrated vegetables, invented in 1959 by a Croatian scientist Zlata Bartl, and has become a product sold worldwide. For meat, they primarily eat beef and lamb. Theirs’ is a hearty diet; with meat found stuffed in almost everything. They also love their rakija; a strong fruit brandy, made of plum or apple, which is popular in all of the Eastern European countries.

So let’s eat

The Menu
Appetizer
Meza
(A plate of cucumbers, smoked meat, cheese, olives, tomatoes and hard boiled eggs)

Main Course
Punjena Paprika served with Pire od Krompira
(Stuffed bell peppers served with mashed potatoes)

Dessert
Tufahija
(Poached apples stuffed with a walnut filling)

We set the table with the colors of the Bosnian flag; blue and yellow. We decorated with the golden lily, the national flower. We, of course ate continental style, as would be customary there.

We began the meal with a Bosnian toast “Živjeli,” pronounced Zhee-vi-lee, which basically means “cheers” in Bosnian. For this meal we toasted with coffee, which is called kafe and trust me, they take their kafe very seriously there. They prepare it with a special copper-plated pot with a long neck, called a džezva, similar to the way Turks serve their coffee but made just a little differently.

For our appetizer, we had a lovely assortment of items; sliced cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, feta cheese and prosciutto along with hard-boiled eggs. The combination of components, called Meza, was delicious and a great way to start our meal.

For the main course we dined on delicious stuffed bell peppers. They were stuffed with minced meat, cooked in a tomato broth and flavored with paprika. With the peppers, we served a simple, mashed potato side and we loved it. The dinner was quite filling, so we had left overs which we enjoyed the next day for lunch.

For dessert, we presented poached apples. They were served cold, having soaked in a sugary sauce then topped with whipped cream. The crunchy filling of the walnuts added a lovely nutty flavor and nice texture to the sweet apples. The dessert went especially well with the Bosnian kafe.

As we say goodbye to Bosnia and Herzegovina we leave with hope and peace for this little country still trying to find her way. This is what historian Enver Imamaovic wrote. “Despite the fact of war, the lilies’ roots have not been killed, a long time symbol of the Bosnian people. One day from those roots, the slender, golden lilies will blossom again and cover the whole of Bosnia.” This is our hope, for a peaceful, beautiful and ever blossoming Bosnia.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

“Shqipëri” which means “Land of the eagles” is what the Albanians call their country. The culinary influence comes from their occupiers, mainly the Turks, Greeks and Italians. It is part of the Balkans and has what is considered a Mediterranean cuisine. Featured herbs such as mint, oregano, basil, rosemary and black pepper flavor many of the dishes, and of course, garlic.

Located on the Adriatic Sea, it neighbors, Greece, Macedonia, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Albania is considered to be the poorest country in Europe. They were under communist dictatorship for fifty years up until 1991. The Ottoman Empire ruled there earlier for nearly five centuries.

Muslim is the main religion in Albania comprising 70% of the population. However, Albanian Orthodox also exists to the South and Roman Catholics to the North.

The official language is Albanian which emerged from the two main dialects, Gheg and Tosk. Greek is also spoken. Albanians trace their roots to an ancient people called lllyrians, from 1000AD.

Albanians have a deep tradition of honoring guests in their homes that continues to this day. In fact, if you are invited into the home of an Albanian, they will likely spend nearly a month’s worth of wages to make a feast for you; even going hungry once you leave to make sure you were properly fed. Just reflect on that for a moment. I find it soul stirring that the people of what is considered the poorest country in Europe are also known as the most hospitable.

I found a story that touched me as I searched for the menu to represent Albania.

An Albanian who was caught for wrongdoing by the Pasha in the city of Shkodra was to be executed for his crime. When the executor was about to chop off his head, the Pasha decided to first humiliate the Albanian in front of the onlookers. “Tell me” said he, “have you ever been in a position like this before?”

“Yes. Twice,” answered the Albanian, surprising all that were there.

“When?” the Pasha insisted.

“Twice, I have had guests in my home and I didn’t have enough food for them. They went to bed hungry” answered the Albanian, tears rolling from his eyes.

The Pasha was so touched by this expression of humility, that he spared the Albanian’s life.

Nearly every region of Albania features its own culinary specialties and traditions. Lamb, beef, chicken and rabbit are used heavily in dishes over most of the country. Vegetables are grown locally and can be purchased fresh daily at the farmer’s markets. The main meal of the day for Albanians is lunch, which usually consists of slow cooked meats and a fresh salad. Their salads, made from fresh local vegetables, are lightly dressed with olive oil, vinegar and salt. Olive oil and butter are also commonly used in the cooking of the meals.

Bread is a staple on the Albanian table and is most often a corn bread called Bukë misri. The expression for going to eat a meal in Albanian is “për të ngrënë bukë” which literally means, “going to eat bread”.

So let’s go…… to Albania

The Menu
Appetizer
Fried Patëllxhan Dhe Kungull i Njomë Tarator
(Fried Eggplant, and Zucchini served with cucumber yogurt)

Salad
Sallatë Jeshile (Green Salad)

Main Course
Pule me Arra (Chicken with Walnuts )

Byrek Me Spinaq (Spinach Pie)

Dessert
Revani ( Albanian cake)

The colors of the Albanian flag, (red and black) were used to set the table. Red poppies, (their national flower) were generously appointed around the table. As we sat down to feast, we said, ”T’boftë mire” simply, “Bon Appetit” in Albanian. We ate Continental style, as is the tradition in Albania, with our fork in the left hand and knife in the right.

We began our meal with a delicious appetizer of fried eggplant and zucchini, dipping it in the creamy cucumber yogurt sauce. We toasted each other with Raki, a grape brandy, the national drink of Albania. We also had some mineral water on hand, the most preferred non-alcoholic drink there. We then enjoyed the refreshingly simple green salad, lightly dressed with olive oil, vinegar and salt.

For our main course, we served two dishes. The first, chicken with walnuts, was tender and juicy. The walnuts added a lovely nutty flavor and texture to the dish. The other was a spinach pie. For this dish, we were able to use the freshest of ingredients right from our own garden. It felt just like going to the local farmers market in Albania. I am sure I could use a lesson or two on working with Phyllo dough. The spinach pie was delicious but just not the prettiest thing I have made. (Note to self, please find a you-tube video on how to properly create the edge of the pie!) When I learn, of course I will share.

Finally, the dessert; Revani. This was likely one of the memorable and beautiful desserts I’ve personally made. It was an absolutely scrumptious cake that looked as amazing as it tasted! So to this meal from Albania we must raise our glass of Raki and say, “Gëzuar” ….. Cheers!

Warmest regards,
Darlene