Search Results for: Niger

Both Niger and Nigeria get their names from the magnificent, River Niger.  How the river got its name, remains a mystery.  It is a very unusual and most important river to both countries.  The Niger River is the third largest in Africa, after the Nile and the Congo.  It is nearly 2600 miles long.  What makes the river so unusual, is its route.  The river’s source is only 150 miles from the Atlantic Ocean in the ancient rock of the Guinea Highlands, but instead of heading toward the ocean it flows away from the sea, into the Sahara Desert.  It is a crescent shape and makes its turn near the ancient city of Timbuktu, in Mali.  It then flows south, though Niger, Benin and Nigeria, where it finally ends, at the Niger Delta, in the Gulf of Guinea of the Atlantic Ocean.  It also floods each year along its route, making a marsh area that is valuable for farming, fishing and wildlife.  The river is known to be clear, with very little silt.

Both countries are located in West Africa.  Niger has seven neighbors: Libya to the northeast, Chad to the east, Nigeria and Benin to the south, Burkina Faso and Mali to the west and Algeria to the northwest.  The country is landlocked, with eighty percent of the land, covered by the Sahara Desert.  The land area of Niger is the largest in West Africa, however, most of the population lives in the far west and south of the country.  The country’s nickname is “The Frying Pan of the World.”  Yes, with its subtropical climate, it is one of the hottest countries in all the world.

Niger gained Independence from France in 1960 and has since had five constitutions and three periods of military rule.  Since a coup in 2010, Niger has become a democratic, multi-party, state.  The population, of nearly 19 million, lives in rural areas.  The capital city, is now Niamey, located in the southwest corner of the country.  Prior to 1926, Zinder was the capital city.  The economy is based on subsistence crops, livestock and uranium mining.  Niger’s population is made up of several ethnic groups. The three largest are: the Hausa, Zarma-Sonrai and the Tuareg.  The Tuaregs are often referred to as the” Blue people”, for the indigo, dye-colored clothes they wear, which stains their skin.  They have been one of the ethnic groups that have been historically influential in spreading Islam to the region.  Islam is the prevalent religion of Niger with eighty percent Islam and the balance mostly Christians.  French is the official language, along with ten others commonly spoken.  Most of the population speaks their indigenous language as their first language.

Unfortunately, Niger faces extreme challenges.  Aside from being one of the poorest nations on earth, it has one of the highest birthrates in the world.  Each Niger woman has on average, seven children.  The median age of the population is a very young, 15 years.  The literacy rate is only 28 percent; one of the lowest in the entire world.  Poor education, lack of healthcare, environmental degradation, overpopulation and drought all add to these challenges.  Most recently the government has had to also deal with the Islamic terrorist, jihadist group called, Boko Haram that is wreaking havoc on its border with Nigeria.  The country, in its landlocked position, faces additional challenges from turmoil all around it.  While the country does get some assistance from other nations, much work needs to be done to pull its citizens out of poverty.

Despite all the hardships that the people of Niger face, they go about their daily life and have celebrations and festivals that are deeply rooted in their histories.  Nearly every ethnic group in the region comes from an empire that ruled the area at one time or another.  They have many traditions.  The Salt Cure Festival and Guerewol Festival are two important ones in the country.

Niger also has some very important national parks; one in the north called, Air and Tenere National Nature Reserve and one in the south, where the W National Park has the most important population of the rare, West African lion, and the one of the last populations of the Northwest African cheetah.  Other wildlife includes elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and warthogs.  The Niger River is also home to the endangered, West African Manatee, as well as 250 fish species; twenty of which are found nowhere else on the planet.

The main staple crops are millet and sorghum.  These are made into stiff porridges and enjoyed alongside sauces, soups and stews.  Rice is also available and grown in the marshes.  The soups and stews are typically made of vegetables and peanuts, as meat is somewhat scarce.  The river provides fish as a needed protein and beans are also popular.  Like many African countries they like a bit of spice in their cuisine.

Nigeria also gets its name from the River Niger.  Aside from Niger to the north, its neighbors are: Chad to the north, Cameroon to the east, Benin to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the south.  Unlike its neighbor Niger, it is one of the wealthiest countries, due to oil and other mineral resources.   It is part of OPEC and the twelfth largest producer of oil in the world.  It accounts for 85 percent of the government’s revenue. Despite its richness, 62 percent of the population lives in poverty.  This is due to mismanagement and corruption.

Nigeria is the most populated country in all of Africa and eighth most populated in the world.   It is home to nearly 190 million people.  It is believed that one of five Africans, is of Nigerian descent.  Its nickname is “The Giant of Africa.”  The population of Nigeria is made up of more than 250 ethnic groups.  The largest and most politically influential are:  the Hausa, the Fulani and the Yoruba.

English is the official language, as they gained Independence from Britain in 1960.  However, more than 500 languages are also spoken.  The religious makeup is: 50 percent Muslim, who live mostly in the north, and 40 percent Christians, who call the south home, and the balance is a mix of indigenous beliefs.

The divide between the north and south continues to be a problem for the government.  The current president, Buhari, a northerner, elected in 2015, has spent two long stents out of the country on medical leave.  He has recently returned and is hoping to calm political disputes that have escalated in his absence, along with making good on his promise to face the war with Boko Haram.  The country has made strides to take territory back from the Jihadist group but are now facing terror threats on soft targets.  Boko Haram is using children as suicide bombers in crowded market places.  You may remember hearing about the young school girls who were kidnapped by the Boko Haram in 2014.  Some have been found but many are still missing.  With the country in recession, the government must work quickly to make opportunities for its young population, to keep them away from religious divides and civil war.  The population average in Nigeria is also a very young, 18 years of age.

There is much work to do in Nigeria especially in regards to infrastructure, power supply, sanitation and clean water.  If the president makes good on his promises to curb and squash corruption, there should be plenty of money to be used on these most important projects.   There are other opportunities in the large cities.  For example, “Nollywood” as it is called, is the second largest producers of movies behind India’s Bollywood.  Telecommunications, along with finance and information, are growing industries in Nigeria.  Many of these growing industries are located in Lagos, the largest city in all of Africa.  It is the financial hub and commercial capital of the country.  Lagos used to be the capital city, which was moved to Abuja in 1991. Lagos sits on the Atlantic coast, has many beaches, including the Ancient Slave Port of Badagry, which was also known as, “The Point of No Return.”  Today the area serves as an important place for reflection.

As we look into the cuisine of these two West African countries, they are very similar to the region as a whole.  They both use millet, sorghum, cassava, corn and rice as staple ingredients. Protein sources, like meat and chicken, are available to the wealthier people in the countries.  Fish from the River Niger, like carp, Nile perch and catfish, are all loved by all.  Melon seeds, which come from a gourd, somewhat shaped like a watermelon, called egusi, are a source of protein as well.  They are not only delicious, when toasted, but are used as a thickener in soups and stews.  Fruits, like mangoes, pineapple, oranges, melons and bananas, are available in the tropical areas.  Yams are an important crop in the eastern areas.  Peanuts are also a common ingredient in the cuisine, as is spice; they like it hot.  Alcohol is not consumed in the Muslim areas of the countries but local beers are enjoyed in the South of Nigeria.  Palm oil is the most used cooking oil in the region.

So let’s enjoy a Nigerien/Nigerian Meal

(just click the name or picture for the recipe)

The Menu

Starter

Suya (Grilled Spicy Meat)

Mali and Mauritania are neighbors in the northern section of West Africa.  They have several things in common, including a border.  They both are large countries; Mali is the eighth largest country in Africa, with a large portion of the country lying deep in the Sahara Desert.  Most of the inhabitants of Mali live in the south, along the Niger and Senegal Rivers.  Mauritania is the 11^th largest country in Africa.  It is not landlocked like its neighbor Mali, as its western border is the Atlantic Ocean.  Ninety percent of the land of Mauritania is also within the Sahara Desert.  Mauritania’s population is most concentrated in the southern part of the nation, as well.

Both countries are predominately Muslim.  Mauritania is officially called, “The Islamic Republic of Mauritania.”  The country is nearly 100 percent Muslim with only about 4500 Roman Catholics, served by the Roman Catholic Diocese of Nouakchott, which was established in 1965.  They have extreme restrictions on freedom of religion and it is one of only 13 countries in the world which punishes atheism by a sentence of death.  Mali, in contrast, provides for freedom of religion and does not permit any form of religious discrimination.  It is about ninety percent Muslim.  Both countries suffer from extremism and are considered to be a couple of the poorest nations on earth, despite being rich in natural resources.  They have each suffered from coups since their independence from France in 1960; Mali on September 22^nd and Mauritania on November 28.

Mali and Mauritania both have a large population of Haratines, (freed, African slave descendants.)  Some human rights groups fear that slavery still exists in these countries, mainly impacting women and children.  In Mauritania slavery wasn’t outlawed until 1981 and even then, it is believed the law was never enforced.  In Mali, there were reports, as recent as 2012, that during a rebellion, ex-slaves were recaptured by their masters.

The majority of the population in these two countries depends on agriculture and livestock, even though most of the nomadic, tribal, lifestyle was forced into the cities.  This was mainly due to the massive droughts that occurred in the 1970s and 1980s.  Cotton, is grown in Mali and is an important export.  Iron ore and fish are important for Mauritania.

Mali gets its name from the Mali Empire that was formed on the upper Niger River and reached its height of power back in the 14^th century.  The name has dual meanings in the Bambara language; “hippopotamus” and “where the king resides.”  The Capital city of Bamako, means “Crocodile River.”  The official language of Mali is French but it is a multilingual country with at least 50 tribal languages spoken.  Arabic and English are two other important languages.  Mali was also the cradle of the Empire of Ghana; West Africa’s first, Black Empire.  Mali has not promoted itself for tourism and therefore the people remain quite traditional, practicing many of their old cultural, tribal ways, such as Ancient, African drumming.

Timbuktu, a city in Mali, was an important center for Islamic learning and trade during medieval times.  It is still used as an important stop for salt caravans and traders.  Back in the day, salt was such a sought after commodity that people would trade it, pound for pound, for gold.   Some buildings remain from its hay day.  Rock paintings found in the area of Gao and Timbuktu suggest the region was inhabited as early as 50,000 BC.  Gao, is another city in Mali, which lies right on the meridian marker.  In Gao, one can literally stand on the edge of two hemispheres.

Mali may be best known for the Grand Mosque, in the city of Djenne’.  It is the largest, mud brick, building in the world and looks like a giant, sand castle.  It was built in 1204 AD.  The massive Mosque is a national treasure.  The bogolanfini cloth, which is a handcrafted, cloth, dyed with mud, is only produced in this part of Africa.  The Dogon people, of central Mali, hold a masked festival, featuring 75 different masks, known as the Sigul.  This festival only happens every sixty years and lasts for several years, as it travels from village to village.  It symbolizes the period between the death of the first ancestor and the moment humans began to speak. The next festival will begin in 2027.

Mauritania, pronounced “more-atania,” also gets its name from an ancient kingdom; the Berber Kingdom of Mauretania.  This kingdom existed from the third century to the seventh century BC, to the far north of modern-day Morocco.  The Romans referred to the Berber people as “Maures.”   The Latin meaning of the word “Mauretania” is “West.” Today about one-third of the population lives in the capital city of Nouakchott, which is located on the Atlantic coast.  Nouakchott means, “place of the winds” and was only designated as a capital in 1960, making it one of the newest capitals of the world.  The official language is Arabic, with formal recognition of French, Fulani, Soninke and Wolof.  There, unfortunately, is constant ethnic conflict, especially between the Nomadic Arabs and the Black Africans.

Mauritania is home to what is known as the “Eye of Africa.”  If you were to look at it from space, it looks like a perfect, bull’s-eye image.  It is believed to be some sort of a highly symmetrical and deeply eroded geologic dome that collapsed.  It is massive, with a diameter of 30 miles.  Some are amazed by the resemblance of this structure and Plato’s description of the city of Atlantis.  Either way, much more research is required, (when it is safe to do so,) to get a better understanding of this unique place.  There are other special places in Mauritania, some of which are UNESCO world heritage sites. The old town of Chinguetti is one of them, which draws people from all over and allows them to be transported back in time, into an old Arab town.  The prominent landmark in Chinguetti is the Great Mosque, built during the 13^th or 14^th century and said to be the soul of the city.

Parc National du Banc d’Arguin is also an UNESCO site and is located between the two largest cities.  The area is composed mainly of sand dunes, which provide a rich biodiversity, as they stretch to the Atlantic Ocean.  The park serves as a breeding ground for birds and has one of the largest concentrations of migratory birds in the world, which includes: pelicans, terns, flamingos and broad-billed sand pipers.  It is a bird lover’s paradise.  The surrounding waters are an abundant food source, for not only the birds, but also for the people living in the area.

As we look into the cuisine of both nations, they are very similar to other West African countries and North Africa countries, as well.  Mauritanian’s national dish comes from neighboring Senegal.  It is a dish called Thieboudienne (cheb-u-jin,) which is popular on the coast and made with fish and rice, tomatoes and other vegetables.  Fish is a staple in Mauritanian cuisine.  Mali doesn’t list a national dish but they also eat fish from the rivers.  Often times, it is served with kuskus or couscous, which is prepared using millet or barley flour, rolled to create small pellets that almost look like rice.  Women in both countries gather to make large batches that will last for weeks.  It is the base for all sorts of sauces, many are made with peanuts and sweet potato leaves.  Vegetables, like sweet potatoes, tomatoes, onions, okra and peppers, are often used.  Meats eaten there are typically lamb, goat, chicken and fish.  Alcohol is not consumed by Muslims, nor is pork.  Interestingly, obesity is an issue for women in Mauritania, which is not very common in most other African countries.  Being large is considered beautiful by Mauritanian men.  Many dishes from surrounding countries would also be most appropriate to represent Mali and Mauritania as well.  Feel free to click on the links for the recipes for Akkara, a bean fritter, Yassa poulet, a lemony chicken dish, as well as jollof rice, a spicy rice dish.

So let’s enjoy a Malian and Mauritanian meal:

  The Menu

Appetizer

Watermelon Slices

Main Course

Leksour (Lamb Stew served on Millet Pancakes)

Dessert

 Meni-meniyong (Sesame and Honey Sticks served with Dates)

And

The Tea Ritual (Green Tea served with Mint and Sugar)

For this meal we began with a handwashing custom, by passing around a pot of water and a basin.  We decorated with the color of their flags; green, yellow and red.  We sat on the floor, to enjoy the meal communal style.

Our first course was simply, watermelon slices.  In both countries, watermelon is a beloved fruit.  It is not hard to imagine why this fruit is so important, given the dry, hot and dusty conditions of the Saharan Desert.  You will often see women and children selling watermelon at the local markets and they even have the ability to carry it on their head.  We enjoyed the watermelon with a touch of mint, on a hot summer day and loved it.  In both countries, a wild variety of watermelon grows that has white flesh.  The seeds are ground and used in baking, adding a different nutritional value than that of grain.  Watermelon is also commonly served as dessert,

For the main course, we faced the challenge of rolling up the savory lamb stew in a pancake, using only our right hand, which is customary there.  It does take some practice when you are not used to it, and definitely adds to the entertainment of the meal.  This dish is a simple, lamb stew, seasoned with a bay leaf, salt and pepper. This allows the flavors of the lamb and vegetables to shine through.  The pancake, made with millet flour, was tasty and had a bit of a nutty flavor.

For dessert we we had sesame seed and honey sticks, called meni-meniyoung.  Sweet and yummy they were served alongside fresh dates and were part of the tea ritual.  Tea pulling, as it is called, is really an art form.  From about a meter away, the host perfectly pours the tea, first from the pot to a small glass and then from glass to glass, until a foamy, frothy top appears.  This aerates the tea, taking away the bitterness.  After the first glass, the pot is returned to the coals and brewed again, this time with mint and copious amounts of sugar.  (It brings a whole new meaning to sweet tea.)  The tea party is the ultimate form of hospitality and friendship and is also used for business negotiations in both countries.  Often times, the tea party can last for several hours. however it always includes precisely three cups of tea. The first cup is bitter, like life, the second one, strong, like love and the third cup, gentle, like death. The tea is slurped loudly and every drop is savored.

As we say goodbye to these two African countries, we do so with a prayer for the people living along the Niger River who, in the next couple months, may be facing epic flooding.

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Libya gets its name from the ancient Greeks who called the people who lived on the land, Libu. The land itself was called Libya.  Located in Maghreb region of North Africa, Libya is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the north, Egypt to the east, Sudan to the southeast, Chad and Niger to the south and Algeria and Tunisia to the west.  A large portion of Libya is part of the Sahara dessert.

Some of the first known inhabitants were Berber tribes from the late Bronze Age.  Phoenicians then colonized the eastern portion of Libya in the seventh century B.C. and called it Cyrenaica, while the Greeks colonized the western portion and called it Tripolitania.  In the first century B.C., the area became part of the Roman Empire, until it was invaded by Arab forces where the empire met its demise.  In the early 16^th century, Libya became part of the Ottoman Empire.  Following hostilities between Italy and Turkey in 1911, Italy occupied Tripoli and then took over most of the land by 1914.  Libya was involved in fierce desert fighting during World War II, and Tripoli fell in 1943 when it came under Allied Administration control, after the war.  Libya finally became the United Kingdom of Libya when it was granted full independence on December 24, 1951.

King Idris was the first and only king of Libya.  He had helped the Allies by providing tribes to fight against the Axis of Evil, as well as offering valuable intelligence on German and Italian troop movements during the war.  He was responsible for uniting Libya.  During his reign, oil was discovered in 1958.  In the late 1960s while he was in Greece for medical treatment, and in failing health, he was deposed by a military coup d’état, led by Muammar Gaddafi.  The monarchy was abolished in September of 1969 and a republic was proclaimed.  Idris went into exile in Egypt, where he later died.  Despite most Libyans being born after King Idris’ reign, many demonstrators opposing Gaddafi during the Revolution would hold up pictures of the king to exalt their revered, overthrown leader.  The tri-colored flag that was used during the era of his monarchy was also used during the revolution and later re-adopted by the National Transitional Council as the official flag of Libya.

Muammar Gaddafi ruled Libya as an Islamic Arabic Socialist “Mass State.”  Colonel Gaddafi aligned himself with other dictators and fostered anti-western terrorism.  He was highly controversial and an extremely divisive world figure.  He had particularly hostile relationships with the USA and the United Kingdom.  He was blamed for the Lockerbie bombing of Pan-Am Flight 103 which killed 270 civilians.  Gaddafi accepted responsibility for the bombing and paid compensation to the families of the victims, although he maintained he had never given the order for the attack, which was carried out by two Libyan nationals.  Gaddafi ruled from 1969 until the Arab Spring Revolution when he was captured and killed in 2011, by rebel forces.   At the time of the Arab Spring, there was widespread dissatisfaction with corruption and the unemployment rate had soared to about 30 %.  The UN and NATO were very much involved with the demise of Ghaddafi and supported the rebel forces as well as an interim government known as the National Transitional Council.  Unfortunately there was not a good plan for what happened next.

Today, after the revolution, Libya is seeking to find its way through some very difficult circumstances.  In 2012, there was a deadly attack on the US embassy in Benghazi, where four Americans, including the Ambassador, lost their lives.  There have been over a thousand terrorist attacks in Libya since the fall of Gaddafi.  There is a fierce power struggle happening and ISIS/ ISIL now have a stronghold there, along with several other terrorist groups.  There are basically two governments that do not see eye to eye, so in essence there is no government.  The people who fought for freedom in the revolution, certainly did not prepare for this type of fight.  Many report that life is far worse in Libya after the fall of Gaddafi but they remain committed to fight for a free Libya.  During Gaddafi’s reign, the people received free health care, free education, free housing, free electricity and very cheap gas, yet the people were not free.  A fight for freedom and human rights is what the Arab Spring was all about.

There are many places in Libya which hold historical significance.  There are many UNESCO sites, like Tripoli’s ruins of “Leptis Magna”, where the Emperor of Rome, who was Libyan, was born.  Some say it is one of the best preserved ruins of that era and was once considered the most beautiful Roman city.  The site is large with imposing public monuments.  It has a harbor, a market place, houses, shops and residential districts.  Another impressive site in Libya is the old town of Ghadames.  This is one of the oldest, traditional, pre-Saharan cities, also known as the “Pearl of the Desert” for its stark white façade.  Built vertically, in an oasis, its ground floor was used to store supplies, another floor was for the family and then there were overhanging alleyways which created an underground network of passageways.  At the top were open air terraces that were reserved for the women.  Other UNESCO sites in Libya include the Site of Cyrene, a colony of the Greeks of Thera, with over 1000 years of history.  The Site of Sabratha, is a Phoenician trading post that was rebuilt in the second and third centuries AD.  The oldest site is the Rock Art Sites of Tadrart Acacus, located on the border with Algeria.  This site has thousands of cave paintings dating from 12,000 BC to 100 AD.  Unfortunately, this site has been struck by vandals and while UNESCO, along with key Libyan and international partners, are doing what they can to preserve the Libyan cultural, heritage site, it is a challenge in the midst of chaos and war.

As we look into the cuisine of Libya, it is a culmination of Mediterranean, North Africa and Middle Eastern cuisines.  The Italians, who only ruled briefly, left Libya with pasta, which is still loved today, especially in the west; while rice is a staple in the east.  Dried beans and grains are a fundamental part of the food of Libya.  Chickpeas are often cooked with tomato and meat sauces for couscous and often added to pasta sauce.  A thick, very spicy soup, known as Arabian soup, is widely popular, usually containing lamb or chicken.  Pork consumption and alcohol are forbidden, as Libya is nearly one hundred percent Muslim, (mostly Sunni).  The capital city of Tripoli contributes the Mediterranean influence and many seafood dishes abound.  Southern Libya leans toward Arab and Berber cuisine.  Fruits and vegetables are found in the many open air markets. There, figs, dates, oranges, apricots, watermelon and olives are abundant.  Bazin, or bazeen, is considered to be the national dish of Libya and consists of a rounded, smooth dome made of flour and water that is placed in the middle of the dish, then surrounded by tomato sauce made with mutton and generously seasoned, along with hard boiled eggs for garnish.  The dish is eaten with the right hand only, using the bazin to scoop the sauce.   

So let’s experience a Libyan meal.

The Menu

Starter

M’Battan (Fried Potato with Minced Meat)

Salad

Salata Arabiya bil Tufah Albaladi (Tomato, Cucumber, Olive and Apple Salad)

Main Course

Shakshuka (Eggs Poached in Tomato Sauce)

Served with Khubzit Howsh (Libyan Bread)

Dessert

Batikh (Watermelon with Date Molasses & Olives)

We set the table with the colors of the re-adopted, tri-colored flag; red, black and green.  (The flag during Gaddafi’s regime was a solid green, the only one in the world that had only one color.)  We placed an oil can on the table to represent this oil rich nation (80% of their GDP.)  We added citrus fruits and dates, as they grow there abundantly.  To signify their love for racing we added a formula one car and a horse, as both car racing and horse racing are important events in Libya.  The Tripoli Grand Prix was held there beginning in 1925, until 1940, during the Italian rule.  An Arab coffee pot and little Arabian cups, rounded out the setting.

Our first course was a Libyan specialty, called m’battan.  These little treats were fried potatoes, stuffed with flavored, minced meat; a combination of lamb and beef.  They were kind of like little tacos with the potato serving as the taco shell.  This was a meat and potato lovers’ delight.

Next we enjoyed a delicious salad called, Salata Arabiya bil Tufah Albaladi.  It was made with tomato, cucumber and olives but the delicious twist for this Libyan salad was the apple.  Even the dressing was made with apple and it was simply scrumptious.  This salad is often served with a can of tuna and would make a lovely, light lunch, on its own.

For the main course, we had shakshuka, a poached egg dish in a spicy tomato sauce.  (Eggs for dinner, such a concept.)  They were awesome and we scooped up those perfectly cooked, poached eggs with an “easy to make” flat bread, similar to  a pita, called Khubzit Howsh.  This meal could be enjoyed any time of day.  We savored it!

For dessert, we had a simple slice of watermelon.  This is a much treasured fruit, especially in the scorching, hot months in Libya.  Watermelons are found at road side stands and at open air markets.  We served the watermelon ice cold, with a few bits of salty olive and a little sweet and savory, date molasses.  A nice refreshing way to end our Libyan meal.

As we say goodbye to Libya, in the midst of all that is happening across the world, we can only hope that somehow, peace, love and freedom, will ultimately prevail.

I leave you with a few Libyan proverbs:

Murder rectifies nothing.

Maliciously acquired gold never lasts long.

And

Silence is the door of consent.

Until next time.

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Xaymaca is what the indigenous, Taino, called their island. In their native language, called Arawak, it means, “The Land of Wood and Water” or “Many Springs.” Christopher Columbus discovered the island on his second voyage to the New World. He landed there on May 5, 1494 and Jamaica remained under Spanish rule until 1655. By the 1600s, the Spaniards managed to wipe out the Taino population through slavery, and disease. As a result, the Spanish then transported enslaved, West Africans to the islands to work the fields.

Christopher Columbus spent nearly a whole year on Jamaica after his ships were damaged by wormwood (which is actually a wood eating, saltwater clam), in mid-1503. While he was stranded, the Taino stopped giving him and his crew supplies, as they were torturing and pillaging the Taino people and the land. Columbus, being the navigator he was, had heard about a German astronomer, named Regiomontanus, who predicted that a full lunar eclipse would occur on February 29, 1504. He told the Taino that he would remove the moon and not return it until they gave him the supplies he needed. Needless to say, the plot worked, the moon went away and the Taino offered them whatever they needed to get the moon back. Forty eight minutes later he agreed, and the moon reappeared. From then on, he had all the supplies he needed until he was picked up by the caravel from Hispaniola, on June 29, 1504.

In 1655, the English invaded Jamaica, defeating the Spanish colonists. However, the African slaves seized the opportunity and fled to the island’s interior, forming independent communities, known as the Maroons. The English built a settlement at Port Royal, which became a base of operations for pirates and privateers. In the 18th century, sugarcane replaced piracy as Jamaica’s primary source of income and the English brought in hundreds of thousands more African slaves to work the plantations. By 1800, black Jamaicans outnumbered whites by twenty to one. When the price of sugar dropped, it was replaced as the leading export by bananas and coffee. After the emancipation of slaves in 1834, the plantations were worked by indentured Indian and Chinese workers. British rule lasted until their independence in 1962 but there were numerous, bloody uprisings throughout this period. Jamaica joined the Commonwealth of Nations, an organization of ex-British territories and continues to be, what is called a Commonwealth Realm, with the British Monarch as Queen of Jamaica and Head of State. Kingston became the capital city in 1872 and remains so today.

Jamaica is one of the islands known as the Greater Antilles, located 90 miles south of Cuba, and 100 miles west of Haiti, in the Caribbean. The island is made up of coastal lowlands, limestone plateaus and the beautiful Blue Mountains, in the east. The mountains get their name from the azure haze that settles around its peaks. Jamaica is known for its stunningly beautiful, white sandy beaches and all-inclusive resorts. Although, many people say that if you never leave the all-inclusive resort, you have not really visited Jamaica. Still, Jamaica’s tourism industry thrives and she hosts numerous cruise ships from many ports of call.

Jamaica beckons to be explored: she offers incredible diving in the crystal clear, turquoise ocean, hiking the pristine plateaus and mountains replete with water falls, tropical foliage and wildlife, rafting through breathtaking rapids or floating along enchanting lagoons and discovering her underground caves, sink holes and underground rivers. Tourism accounts for thirty percent of Jamaica’s GDP. Some say the all-inclusive beach resorts hurt the locals who call Jamaica home. In Jamaica, outsiders can own the beach along with the property, stripping the land from its people. Efforts are being made to protect marine life, which seems like a noble cause, however, it forces the locals to go out further to reach the local catch, requiring more fuel, time and money. Jamaica has its challenges with high unemployment, poverty and a reputation for violent crime and drug trafficking, which is why the tourists are asked not to leave the resorts. If you do wander from the resorts, women will often be bombarded by merchants wanting to braid their hair into cornrows, as was popularized by Bo Derek, in the movie “Ten”. And you will often hear the locals say, “Yeah mon, no problem” in their kicked back Jamaican style, in response to almost any request.

The famous novelist, Ian Fleming, had a beautiful five bedroom villa in Oracabessa that he named “The Golden Eye.” All fourteen of his “James Bond” books were said to have been written there. Today his home is part of a place for tourists to enjoy. The resort is now owned by Chris Blackwell, who was founder of Island Records and who brought the spiritual sounds of Bob Marley’s reggae to the rest of the world. Bob Marley’s music resonated with humanity, as it identified oppressors and stirred social change, while allowing listeners to escape their troubles and sway to its rhythmic beat. After Marley’s death in 1981, he was inducted into the rock and roll hall of fame. His 1977 album, “Exodus” was named “album of the century” by Time magazine. He was bestowed the Grammy’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2001. Bob Marley’s music was rooted in his Rastafarian beliefs and he was known for smoking marijuana or “herb”, as it is called in Rasta culture. He was a believer of the herb’s medicinal, meditational and spiritual abilities. He once said “Rum, teach you to be a drunkard, and herb, teach you to be someone.” Bob Marley will forever be a Jamaican cultural icon. The Bob Marley museum is located in the capital city of Kingston.

Jamaica was made famous on the world stage with its showing at the Calgary Winter Olympics in 1988. There, the Jamaican Bobsled Team competed against all odds in the Olympics. This was quite extraordinary for a team from the tropics who had never seen snow, let alone a bobsled. Since then, they have qualified multiple times in the Winter Olympics and were the inspiration for the movie about the trials and tribulations of the team, called “Cool Runnings". Then there is Usain Bolt AKA Lightening Bolt, a Jamaican sprinter regarded as the fastest person ever timed.

The small island of Jamaica is home to nearly 2.8 million people. The majority, about 80 percent, is overwhelmingly from African descent; many from the Akan tribe from Ghana and the Igbo from Nigeria. The balance of the population is Afro-European, East Indian, Caucasian and Chinese. The official language is English, however, it is a unique, creole dialect, called Patois.

Religion is an important part of life for Jamaicans. More than 80 percent are Christians, practicing all forms of Christianity. There are also Jewish, Muslim, Hindu and Bahai religions represented. A very small percentage of the population is Rastafarian. According to the Rastafarian belief, the only true God is the late Ethiopian emperor, Haile Selassie and Ethiopia is the true holy land. Rastafarians are known for wearing their hair in dreadlocks, having beards and carrying bibles, as a sign of a pact with God. Rastafarians place great emphasis on spirituality, meditation and the individual. Ganja or the “herb’ is used in their religious rites.

As we look into the cuisine of Jamaica, we can see it is influenced by the island itself and its rich history. It is a smorgasbord of sorts, yet there are many local ingredients that the island nation has made their own. The island’s motto is “out of many, one people” and it could be said for the food as well. They are probably most known for their fiery, hot, scotch bonnet peppers that are the key ingredient to any good “jerk” dish. Although Jamaica is famous for their jerk chicken, it is saltfish with ackee, which is considered their national dish. Typically served for breakfast, this salted, cod fish is served with a most unusual fruit, called ackee. The fruit must be handled properly or it can be toxic. It is somewhat bland, yet has a sweetness that pairs beautifully with the saltfish. This is often combined with onions and peppers and served with callaloo, (a leafy bitter green) for a memorable meal. Plantains are often fried and served as a side dish.

Another popular item, is the Jamaican patty; a street food loved all over the island. It is much like an empanada or samosa, but seasoned with the distinct flavors of Jamaican cuisine. Curried goat is also an extremely well-liked dish and rice and pigeon peas are the mainstay of the Jamaican diet. The rice is simmered in fresh coconut milk for a sweet, tropical taste. In Jamaica, tropical fruits are abundant and one is often greeted at the airport with a glass of tropical fruit juice mixed with rum (another island specialty) while reggae music plays in the background. It’s a lovely way to be welcomed to Jamaica.

Allspice, is what ultimately embodies the flavor of Jamaica. There, it is known as pimento or Jamaican pepper. The pimento tree is indigenous to the Caribbean Islands. The wood from the tree is used to slowly cook their meats and fish to give them that distinctive Jamaican flavor. The fruit (or dried, unripe berry) evokes a blend of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. Allspice has a unique and unforgettable flavor.

So let’s eat Jamaican style:

The Menu
Starter
Hot Pepper Shrimp

Main
Jamaican Jerk Chicken

Served with
Jamaican Coconut Rice

Garden Salad

Dessert
Key Lime Pie

We set the table in the colors of the Jamaican flag; black, green and yellow. We put reggae music on the stereo to set the Caribbean mood. We decorated with bananas and coffee beans; two of the most important agricultural products of the island nation. Orchids were also on display, as Jamaica is home to over 400 varieties.

Our first course was a hot pepper shrimp that was light and refreshing. It was served with fresh mango slices and red onion. This dish was plated cold and dressed with a jerk marinade that added the perfect amount of spicy heat to the dish. We enjoyed it with a hibiscus, iced tea.

For the main course, we prepared their famous jerk chicken. We loved this intensely flavored but oh so tender chicken and now completely understand why Jamaicans are known for this treasure. Served with the sweet, tropical flavor of the coconut rice with peas, it was superb. Jerk chicken is made in a couple of stages and requires making a base (or jerk) before the sauce is made, after which, the chicken is marinated in it overnight. While the chicken is grilled, it is also basted with the sauce, which is then placed as a condiment on the table. The base was what was used in the dressing for the appetizer course as well. (I love it when you can use a recipe for a number of different applications.) I can see many wonderful uses for the base called “jerk”.

The chicken and rice were accompanied by what is known as a garden salad but it contains cabbage and carrots, as opposed to the usual lettuce. This was a lovely complement, typically served with Thousand Island dressing.

For dessert, we enjoyed key lime pie, which had a ginger snap crust and was decorated like the Jamaican flag, using bananas and chocolate on the lime green pie. We savored the dessert with a rich cup of Jamaican coffee from the Blue Mountains. Some say it is the best coffee in the world. I am not enough of a coffee connoisseur to answer that question, but it was delicious!
As we say goodbye to Jamaica, I leave you with a verse from Bob Marley’s song called “One Love” His song was named “Song of the Millennium” by the BBC.

One love, one heart
Let’s get together and feel all right
Hear the children cryin (one love)
Hear the children cryin (one heart)
Sayin, “Give thanks and praise to the Lord and I will feel all right”
Sayin “Let’s get together and feel all right.”

Until next time,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

The Ivory Coast, is what the translation of her name is, from French to English. The name came from the profitable ivory trade which took place there during the seventeenth century. The trading of ivory did not last long, as it quickly brought about a massive decline in elephants. The trade virtually died by the beginning of the eighteenth century. Located in West Africa, Cote D’Ivoire is bordered by Ghana, Liberia, Mali, Burkina Faso and Guinea and the southern border is the Atlantic Ocean.

Although Cote D’Ivoire has a border on the Atlantic Ocean, the area is rough and without any sheltered harbors along its coastline. This was a blessing for the Ivorians, as the Europeans never made a permanent trading post for slaves there. She was a French Colony from 1843 until 1960, when Ivorians finally gained their independence. The French considered Cote D’Ivoire their “pet” colony and often referred to her as “the Jewel of West Africa.” After gaining Independence, she became politically stable and economic prosperity followed. However, that only lasted until the death of Dictator Felix Houphouet-Boigny in 1993. The country has suffered civil unrest, with many coups since then and has been unstable ever since.

The official language is French, although with nearly 60 different ethnic tribes living in the country, many indigenous languages are also spoken. The country is divided into four different cultural regions: the Akan in the Atlantic East, the Kru in the Atlantic West, the Voltaic in the northeast and the Mande in the northwest.

The capital city is officially Yamoussoukro but it is Abidjan that is the most populated and serves as the administrative center of the country. About half the population lives in urban cities. The constitution guarantees freedom of religion to all citizens. There is a mix of Muslims (about 40 percent) mainly in the north, Christians (about 35 percent) mainly in the south and those that have their own indigenous beliefs, making up the balance.

One of the legacies left by the Dictator Boigny is the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, Yamoussoukro. It is a replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. It took four years to build and cost 300 million US dollars. It is the largest church in the world with an indoor seating capacity of 18,000, yet only a little more than three hundred worshippers attend the Sunday services. It was only filled to capacity twice. Once for the blessing of Pope John Paul II. This service was postponed for a year as the Vatican was not exactly pleased that its crown jewel was overshadowed by an African president’s replica. The Pope insisted the building could not be taller than St. Peter’s Basilica. The architect obliged by lowering the dome height but then placed a massive cross on top, making it 100 feet taller than the Vatican. The other event that filled the church was the funeral of the Dictator Boigny.

Today the church is maintained by clergymen appointed by the Pope, at the cost of $1.5 million dollars annually. “The size and expense of the building in such a poor county with an annual GDP of $650 is a delicate matter, to say the least” said a Vatican official. The Pope did stipulate that a hospital be built for the poor, which finally opened in 2012. Surprisingly, the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, has somehow survived amongst intense civil unrest and violence.

About 75 percent of the population makes a living in agriculture, as the Ivory Coast is the largest exporter of cocoa beans in the world. They also export a substantial amount of coffee, bananas and palm oil. They are working on diversifying their economy, to be less dependent on agriculture, as price fluctuations in those markets are very unpredictable.

The different ethnic groups each have their own music and dance rituals, which are key to the storytelling of their ancestry. One of the biggest festivals of the Ivory Coast is called “Fetes de Masques”, a festival of masques. Many villages participate in this celebration to pay homage to the forested spirits, embodied by the villagers, who wear colorful costumes and masks (which showcases their fine woodworking skills.) The festival is held each November in a town called Man.

The Akan people celebrate the yam festival. They are part of what is known as the yam belt, which includes Nigeria, Ghana, Benin and Central African Republic. This yam belt provides 94 percent of the world’s yams. The festival serves several purposes. It is a memorial service for the dead and a celebration of thanksgiving for a good harvest. It is also a ritual of purification to keep away evil spirits. Finally, it celebrates the original Akan chief, who is said to have risked his life by taking the first taste of a yam in the kingdom. (“I yam not afraid,” he said)

The cuisine in Cote D’Ivoire is similar to its West African neighbors, with tubers, such as yam and cassava, ground nuts, millet, corn and rice, used commonly. Meat is a luxury, however chicken is served at special occasions. Fish and fried plantains are common in the coastal areas, while the familiar fufu, served with spicy stew sauces, is considered the national dish. They like it spicy there, using very hot peppers in most dishes.

The meals are often cooked in what is called a calabash. This vessel is used for many purposes including: washing hands before a meal and doing dishes afterwards, cleaning clothes and bathing children as well as being played as a drum. Often wealth is determined by the number of calabashes a household possesses. Subsistence farming is also an important means of income to many Ivorians, selling their extra produce in the open village markets.

They have small, open-air restaurants, called Maquis, where authentic Ivorian cuisine is served.  Attiéké is a classic dish of fermented and grated cassava, served as a side dish with Kedjenou, a slow cooked chicken stew. This dish is made in a tightly sealed clay cooking pot, called a canari and placed on hot coals. The canari is gently turned or shaken as the chicken cooks, making sure that no steam escapes. The result is exceptionally tender chicken, cooked in its own rich juices.

So let’s eat Ivorian Style:

The Menu
Soup
Velouté d'Ignames (Cream of Yam Soup)

Salad
Cucumber and Courgette Salad

(Cucumber and Zucchini Salad)

Main
Kedjenou (Spicy Chicken Stew)

Served with
Attiéké (Fermented Cassava)

Dessert
Melon Fingers (Slices of Melon served with Lime)

We set a mat on the floor and decorated with the colors of the flag; orange, white and green. Orange represents the savanna grasslands, green represents the coastal forests and white represents the country’s rivers. We also used elephant figurines, as they are considered the national animal of Cote D’Ivoire.  Pictures of African masks donned our candles giving the sense of flickering tribal spirits. We began with a vessel containing warm, soapy water to wash our hands and we used only our right hand to eat, as would be customary there.

The first course was a delicious cream of yam soup, chosen in honor of the Akan yam festival. We loved it. I was only able to find red yams at my local grocery store but yams, from the yam belt, come in many different colors.

The next part of the meal was served all together. The main dish called Kedjenou, was awesome. This method of cooking, without allowing steam to escape, makes the chicken incredibly tender and sumptuous. I went to an African market to find the fermented cassava, called Attiéké. I bought it frozen but it is also available dried, in a box. It was steamed and had a similar consistency to couscous. However, it has a unique sourness to the flavor that was a lovely complement to the Kedjenou. We also prepared a cucumber and zucchini salad, which was basically pickled in a sweet vinegar with some red pepper flakes. We often make a similar salad of cucumber and red onion in vinegar, but this one was much better. The sweetness added to the vinegar created a perfect tang and the zucchini added a wonderful crispness. (I will keep this salad in mind, as I always seem to have an abundance of zucchini in my garden.)

For dessert, we enjoyed a simple slice of cantaloupe, with a touch of lime. Fruit is commonly eaten as dessert there. I also loved that our dessert matched the colors of their flag.

As we say goodbye to Cote D’Ivoire, we do so with hope that this African country too, will find peace and prosperity. After dinner we put on a movie called “Black and White in Color.” It was filmed on the Ivory Coast and won an Academy Award in 1976, for Best Foreign Language Film.

Until Next Week,
Au revoir (Goodbye, in French, pronounced uh reh vwah)
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Chad, a landlocked country right in the heart of Africa, gets her name from Lake Chad, which means “large expanse of water.” This lake is located on the western border of the country and serves as a fresh water source to 30 million people in several countries including, Cameroon, Nigeria, and Niger. Chad also shares borders with Libya to the north, Sudan to the east and Central African Republic to the south. The people are called Chadians and the country is home to 200 ethnic groups. One can imagine with so much ethnic diversity, the native music, dance and traditions are rich and distinctive. The official languages are French and Arabic although hundreds of other indigenous languages are also spoken.

The north, east and center of the country are home to nomadic groups that graze their livestock across large swaths of land. This area of the country is harsh and known as the Saharan North; a desert climate that gets very little rainfall and has temperatures ranging from 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter to an average of 113 degrees in the summer. Islam is the majority religion and widely practiced among these nomadic groups. It was brought to them by Arab traders and merchants dating back to the 11th century. In 2002, an important discovery was made in Chad in the study of evolution. A hominid skull was found and dated to be seven million years old; the oldest discovery made anywhere in the world. Also discovered there are the “round head” rock paintings that depict images of man and creatures from the early beginnings of evolution.

About half of the population lives in the fertile, tropical, south part of Chad. The country was previously a French Colony and the French invested most of their resources in this southern area where many converted to Christianity. Chad gained independence from France in 1960. Since independence, Chad like many other countries in this area of Africa has suffered from ethnic divide and conflict, especially between the north and south. Today Chad is one of the poorest nations on earth, with over 60 percent of the population living in poverty. The literacy rate is a sad 26 percent and life expectancy is only 50 years of age.

The capital city N’Djamena is a relatively new city, founded by the French in 1900. It suffered tremendous damage during the years of civil war and has seen a huge influx of refugees from surrounding countries. You may remember hearing in the news of the Darfur province in Sudan, from there Chad took in 200,000 Sudanese refugees. Then a recent flood of refugees trying to escape the atrocities in Central African Republic fled to Chad. Although the city tries to accommodate the refugees, they unfortunately don’t have the proper infrastructure to support such an influx and must resort to massive tented camps which have their own set of issues.

Another major problem for Chad is their disappearing lake. The United Nations’ Food and Agriculture organization calls the situation an “ecological catastrophe”. The lake’s water level has shrunk by more than 90 percent from what it was in 1960; from 25,000 square kilometers to 1350 square kilometers today. This diminishing, life supporting resource has led to a humanitarian crisis and created massive social conflicts in the area. The World Bank and other organizations are looking into how best to support the government in dealing with this crisis as the desert continues to encroach on what was once one of Africa’s largest body of water. The problem is blamed on climate changes, increasing the evaporation rates and population growth.

Agriculture and animal husbandry employs 85 percent of the population. Cotton, introduced by the French, along with cattle and gum Arabic, provide most of Chad’s export revenue. Chad is the second largest producer of gum Arabic, which is tapped by small scale harvesters from wild acacia trees throughout the Sahel region. Gum Arabic is exported mainly to the USA and Europe and is used in soft drinks, pharmaceuticals and many other products. Farmers, mainly in the south, produce several subsistence crops for domestic consumption. These include grains, oilseeds (like groundnuts, peanuts and sesame), tubers, and leafy vegetables. Millet and sorghum are major staples in the Chadian diet along with tubers, manioc and sweet potatoes. The grains are used to produce bili-bili and arghi, two popular alcoholic drinks in the south.

The cuisine in Chad is quite different from the north to the south. Fish are abundant around the areas of Lake Chad. In the North, the nomadic Arabs rely upon foods from livestock, mainly dairy products. Southern Chadians have many more options, especially near the capital city where there is subsistence farming.

So let’s begin:

The Menu
Starter
Salade du Tchad (Chadian salad)

Main Dish
Poulet Rôti Tchadienne (Chadian-style roast chicken)

Served with
Courgette with Peanuts (Zucchini with peanuts)

Dessert
Jus de Fruit (Fruit drink)

For our Chadian meal we set a mat on the floor with colors of the flag; blue, red and yellow. We began the meal with a delicious, healthful salad that clearly had an Arabic influence, with rice, raisins, bananas, cucumber, almonds and a hint of spice, lemon and honey.

For the main course we enjoyed the Chadian-style, roasted chicken with mashed zucchini and peanuts. Honestly, I had never thought about mashing zucchini before and it was superb. (When our garden is in full bloom, zucchini is always in abundance. We are constantly looking for new ways to enjoy them, so thank you Chad!) The chicken was perfect; light, crispy skin on the outside and succulent and tender meat on the inside.

For dessert we enjoyed a simple drink made of pineapple, mango and milk, flavored with some cardamom and nutmeg. This drink, called Jus de Fruit, is sold by vendors on almost any street corner in the city. One can appreciate the cool refreshment it imparts on a sweltering, African, summer day.

It would be customary to eat with only your right hand in Chad. You likely would sit on a mat on the floor and you must make certain that your feet don’t point at anyone or at the food. It is best to tuck them away to the side, if possible. Also, never give eggs to children. It is taboo in Chad to do so, as they believe it will cause their child to grow up to be a thief!

As we say goodbye to this country called Chad, I can’t help but look for some hope for this poor nation. As it turns out, it may be oil. They have completed a pipeline across Chad to transport oil through Cameroon. Although the price per barrel of oil has plummeted recently, we can only hope that it will serve to provide a revenue source to improve the lives of the people who call Chad their home.

And some more food for thought, a few Chadian proverbs:
If you always walk down the same path, you’ll go where you’ve already been.
Every closed eye is not sleeping, and every open eye is not seeing.
Your heart must be peaceful to hear song in the leaves of the trees.

Until next week,
Warmest Regards,

Darlene

For this journey, we head to Cameroon, which was named by the Portuguese explorers who arrived there in 1472. The Wouri River was so abundant with crayfish and prawns, they called it “Rio dos Camaroes” (River of Prawns). Cameroon is referred to as “little Africa” due to her ethnic diversity and variety of climates. There are so many different ethnic tribes living in this country, representing most all of the ethnic groups living in the whole of Africa, that over 250 local languages are spoken there. Additionally, she has a very diverse climate and geography from desert to rainforest; almost a mirror of the continent itself. Located on the west coast of Africa, she borders the Gulf of Guinea to the west, Nigeria to the northwest, Chad and the Central African Republic to the east and the People’s Republic of Congo, Gabon and Equatorial Guinea to the south. The capital city, Yaounde’, is in the central province.

French Cameroon (Cameroun) became independent in 1960 and the British Cameroon gained independence in 1961. The country came under single party rule in 1965 and became officially the Republic of Cameroon in 1984. Both English and French are listed as the official languages of Cameroon. Since her independence, there have been coups attempts and ethnic tensions between groups in the northern and southern regions of the country. In 1992 came the legalization of multiparty politics. Today these parties are associated with specific ethnic groups and regions. Many areas have their own hierarchical system in place, aside from the government.

As one can imagine, with so many different ethnic tribes, there are just as many belief systems. Many practice their own indigenous beliefs however a large percentage of Christians reside in the south and Muslims in the north. There are several cultures in the west and in the east that practice divination, where they perform public autopsies to determine the cause of death. They are concerned with any death deemed to be caused by witchcraft. In many cultures the announcement of a death is through the public wailing of women. One can only imagine the profoundly, mournful sound they make. The Grassfield’s people bury their dead and close relatives shave their heads out of grief. They observe a week of public mourning called cry-die. A year later, the deceased are honored in lavish celebrations. Masks are an important part of the culture in Cameroon and are used for many occasions such as these celebrations.

Family life is very different among the ethnic tribes as well. There are rural, polygamous compounds where a male head of the household lives with his wives and their children. In other regions, families have more traditional relationships. It is common among most of the tribes that infants are held close to the mother but once they can hold their head up, siblings take over the task.

Cameroon is blessed to be self-sufficient with food. Agriculture, the production of food, as well as cotton, coffee and cocoa employs nearly two-thirds of the population. Many people grow enough to feed their families and then sell the extra in the local market. They typically have a separate area for women to sell produce and palm oil and an area for the men to sell livestock and bush meat. Industries, such as mining, aluminum processing, beverage manufacturing, forestry and petroleum are a significant source of income for the country.

Although there are many differences among the tribes, there are a few things that are common among them. Soccer is the national sport of Cameroon and they are most proud as their national football (soccer) team gained world recognition when they made it to the World Cup quarter finals in 1990. The team has also won several African cup titles, which is a source of national pride, as well as a gold medal in the 2000 Olympics. Another commonality is the sharing of food. A cooked meal is one of the major ways to express kinship and hospitality and Cameroon gets her fair share of immigrants. As recently as June of 2014, almost 90,000 people (mostly hungry, women and children) fled to Cameroon from other African nations.

Music and dance are an integral part of Cameroonian ceremonies, festivals, social gatherings, and storytelling. Traditional dances are highly choreographed and performed separately by men and women. In a typical performance, the music consists of a chorus of singers echoing a soloist. Musical accompaniment may be as simple as clapping hands and stomping feet but traditional instruments are also used such as drums, flutes, horns, rattles, scrapers, stringed instruments, whistles, and xylophones; the exact combination varies with ethnic group and region. The two most popular styles of music are Makossa and Bikutsi. Makossa, mixes folk music, highlife, soul and Congo music. Bikutsi is foot stomping, dance music.

The cuisine of Cameroon is similar to other West African countries but there is also an influence from the French. The food varies by region but is typically one large meal served in the evening. In the north, staple foods are corn, millet and peanuts. In the south people eat more root vegetables as a well as plantains. One of the dishes considered to be the national dish is called n’dole. This is made with a boiled bitterleaf (a type of green, leafy vegetable) which grows all over in Cameroon. Tropical fruits are abundant in Cameroon and so are different types of meat and fish, for those who can afford them. In most West African countries they eat a starchy food called fufu (much like cous cous). It is cooked and then pounded with a pestle and made into balls. They eat it using three fingers and dip it into a variety of delicious sauces. I actually tried to make this for our meal but unfortunately, I could not master it. I hope someday to find a proper recipe to make fufu using cassava. In the meantime, I think you will like what we decided to cook to represent Cameroon.

So let’s eat:

The Menu

Appetizer
Bouchées de Plantains aux Crevettes (Plantain and prawn rolls)

Starter
Soupe à la Noix de Coco Camerounaise (Cameroonian coconut soup)

Main Dish
Suya (Spicy Beef on a Stick)

Served with Cameroon Pepper Sauce

Dessert
Banana and Pineapple Layered with Thick Coconut Milk

We sat on the floor to eat Cameroonian style. We poured ourselves a non-alcoholic drink, called ginger beer. We turned on the very popular music from Cameroon, called Makossa. The dishes were served communal style, as would be customary there. We began with a hand washing. Food is eaten only with the right hand, as the left is considered unclean, even after washing. Typically in Cameroon, men and guests are served before women and children. We used the colors of the Cameroon flag for decorations; red, yellow and green. The colors represent unity, happiness and hope, respectively. They are also the traditional pan-African colors.

We began with the shrimp and prawn rolls, which were delicious, accompanied with a sauce made of bell peppers, tomato and onions. I decided to change the plating of these little treats to make it easier to eat by hand. Instead of rolling the prawn in the plantain, I placed a prawn on a fried plantain chip, and topped it with the sauce. This made them much easier to manage.

Next was the subtle, coconut soup, a very nice starter, but we felt it was a little bland and so we spiced it up with red pepper flakes. That was the perfect addition and it was still authentic to Cameroon cuisine.

Now sometimes, I think things happen for a reason. The fufu I tried to make that did not turn out, led me instead to create a popular street food called Suya. Wow talk about love…… This spicy, beef kabob (which I am sure could be made with chicken, goat or lamb), was served simply with slices of onion and tomato and a hot pepper sauce, made from habaneros and tomatoes. It was spicy and had a hint of peanut in the rub. The result was awesome! I also learned that tomatoes do a surprisingly good job of cutting down the heat of a hot chili pepper. I had not given that much thought before, but it’s true and something I will keep in mind.

For dessert, we had a layered banana, pineapple salad that also included avocado, tomato and peanuts. It was very different; I would not normally pair tomatoes with tropical fruit but it worked. The thick coconut milk poured over the top added a lovely sweetness. This was a perfect end to our Cameroonian meal.

As we say goodbye to Cameroon, I leave you with a few proverbs:
By trying repeatedly, the monkey learns how to jump from the tree.
If you ask questions, you cannot avoid answers.
What you don’t know, you will not recognize.

Until next week, warmest regards,
Darlene

Formerly known as Upper Volta, (named by the French), her name was changed after gaining independence in 1960 to Burkina Faso. Burkina means “Free Man” in Moore’ and Faso means “Land” in Dyula, so together it means “Country of the Free Man”. The citizens are called Burkinabe, a multi-ethnic nation with at least 60 ethnic groups and as many languages. This land was part of the Great Mossi Empire, the path of several historical migrations, before the whole region was annexed by the French in 1896.

This landlocked country is located in the middle of West Africa. It is geographically in the Sahel, the agricultural region between the Sahara Desert and the coastal rain forests. Her high population and limited natural resources result in poor economic prospects for the majority of her citizens. As such, Burkina Faso is listed as one of the poorest nations in the world.

She borders Benin, Mali, Niger, Togo, Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana. Unrest in Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana has resulted in thousands of seasonal farm workers unable to find work in neighboring countries. This has taken a real toll, as one of the main exports of this country has been labor. Historically migrant workers from Burkina Faso went to work in the gold mines and plantations of Ghana and the Ivory Coast. The country is however, a large producer of cotton, backed by the Monsanto Corporation and nearly 80 percent of the crop is grown from genetically modified seeds. They also export gold and animal products.

The country is mostly rural and the population is highly mobile; a nomadic society. Changing cultivation and trade has made it that way. Most all of the agriculture is for sustenance, leaving only ten percent available for export. The boundaries set up by the colonial powers made little sense as the borders split people of the same ethnic groups, while enclosing people without any affiliations. Despite this, the country enjoys a pretty peaceful society, without any major conflicts. Perhaps it is due to a cultural practice called the “joking relationship”. Members of different tribes and ethnicities, whether strangers or friends, have a tradition that when they happen to meet, they insult each other in a teasing and humorous way. It is absolutely forbidden to take any offense. This approach creates a brotherhood, friendship and respect for one other.

French is the official language used in schools, the army and the media, however since most Burkinabe do not attend school, they speak their ethnic languages. Moore’ is what 40 percent of the population speaks, as a high number of citizens are Mossi. In the capital city of Ouagadougou, pronounced “woo-go-doo-go”, only 50 percent of the kids go to school and in the rural areas only 20 percent. Some of the children walk hours each day from their villages to school and then back home again.

As one of the poorest nations, they receive quite a bit of aid from other countries and charitable organizations. Vaccine programs have reached even the most remote villages and some medicines are made available for purchase in the village markets. Traditional healing methods are still widely available, using herbs, roots and barks to heal.

The country is tolerant concerning religion with 45 percent practicing traditional beliefs, such as animism, 43 percent practice Islam, with the balance being Christians. Each ethnic group has their own beliefs and specialists like earth priests, fortune tellers, healers and rainmakers. Witchcraft and magic are important in everyday life. These practitioners are chosen by tradition or called by a spirit.
Sacrifice of chickens, guinea fowl or even bigger livestock is the core ritual of traditional beliefs; these are offered to a wide range of spiritual forces. Many of these ethnic tribes have elaborate celebrations that can last for several days or even weeks to honor the deceased in the afterlife, elevating them to the sphere of their ancestors.

A big tourist attraction in Burkina Faso is Lake Tengrela, a small lake that is filled with hippopotamuses, which are sacred according to local legend. Because of this, it is said that they never attack humans. Speaking of tourist attractions there is a place called Loropeni, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which has ruins dating back 1000 years. It is believed to have been a trading post for the gold trade. The site encloses about two and a half acres and there is still much to be uncovered and discovered there.

Burkinabe cuisine is similar to many other West African countries and is based on staple foods such as sorghum, millet, rice, maize, peanuts, beans, yams and okra. Tô is the most common food. It is a dough-based meal which is made from millet, sorghum or corn and mixed with a sauce containing vegetables, such as tomatoes, carrots and peppers. On special occasions it is consumed with some type of meat like mutton or goat. In the urban areas, chicken is commonly cooked in the streets and called “poulet-bicyclette” which means, chicken on a bicycle, since that is how they are brought from the villages into town. Many local men drink what is called dolo or chapalo, a home-made millet beer, made mostly by women and sold in local markets. It is said that husbands get a first taste for free but then are expected to pay. A non-alcoholic drink is called Bissap, a sour tasting drink made from dried hibiscus flowers, is what I chose for our meal.

So let’s eat Burkinabe style:

The Menu

Appetizer
Chips d’Igname (Yam Chips)

Main Course
Cuisses de Poulet a la Puree de Patates Douces
(Chicken Thighs with Mashed Sweet Potatoes)

Served with French Green Beans

Dessert
Banfora (Fried Pastry with Pineapple)

Drink
Bissap du Burkina Faso (Burkinabe Hibiscus Flower Drink)

We set the table in red and green with a yellow star representing their flag. We decorated with staple products from their daily life, using yams, peanuts, hibiscus flowers and cotton. Traditionally you would sit on the floor and eat only with your right hand.

We began our meal with a simple appetizer of fried yam chips, they were absolutely delicious. We sipped our Bissap during the entire meal and it grew on us with each sip. It is a bit sour but leaves you craving more and we could see how it is loved as a perfect thirst quencher on a hot day in Burkina Faso.

For the main course we had chicken thighs and mashed sweet potatoes and green beans on the side. It made me wonder why I don’t mash sweet potatoes or yams more often, simple to make and perfectly delicious. The chicken was cooked in those familiar African flavors of peanut butter, tomato, coconut milk and a small chili, added for a little kick. My husband and I have both been amazed at how much we love these flavors together. At first, what seemed like such an odd combination, has become one of our favorites. This chicken dish is now added to the list! The French green beans were quickly fried al dente’ having a nice, light crunch and seasoned with onion, ginger, garlic and chili.

For dessert, we enjoyed Banfora. It was like a puffed pancake that was sweet and had bits of pineapple in it; simply divine! I had a couple left over which we enjoyed just as much with coffee the next morning.

The Burkinabe people are known to be very friendly with greetings that are ritualized and can seem quite demanding from a traveler’s perspective. They just want to get to know you so they will take your hand and they’ll ask, “How are you? And your family? And your job? And your journey?” And if you ask in kind, perhaps just for a moment, as you share a cup of tea, you will feel, not like a tourist but a friend.

I leave you with a little Mòoŕe lesson
“Yam Kibaré” Which means “How are you?”
And your response: “Laafi Bala, Ya Yamba? I am fine and you?
And then you are friends!

Until next week,
Warmest Regards,
Darlene

Benin, a small country, located in southwest Africa, is formerly known as Dahomey, and also referred to as the “Slave Coast.” “The Door of No Return” is what one memorial is called. It is a site that sits at the end of the 2.5 mile long journey which led chained, beaten and branded slaves to ships that would take them to their “new lives” in the “new world.” The door, symbolized the end of a slave’s life in Africa. Most would never return to their homeland after being shipped off to the Americas. Surprisingly, it was the Kingdom of Dahomey who sold their own people into the slave trade. Another monument, called Zomachi, was built in 1998, to ask forgiveness for the ancestors who were involved in the slave trade. Today, it is a place where people gather for repentance and reconciliation.

Benin’s shape is short and thin and kind of a key shape, with the north being wider than the south. Her southern border is on the Atlantic Ocean. Her neighbors are Togo, to the west, Burkina Faso and Niger, to the north and Nigeria, to the east. Benin contains many ethnic groups considered to be indigenous. After she gained independence from France in 1960, there were coups, uprisings and instability. Benin, for a time, was ruled by a dictatorship with a Marxist-Leninist philosophy, which then collapsed in 1989. It is one of the first countries in Africa to successfully transform from a dictatorship to a pluralistic political system. Today, Benin is one of the most stable countries in Africa. She is, however, poor and relies heavily on trade with her large neighbor Nigeria and also India and China. Cotton is by far the major export of Benin and they make incredible fabrics: vibrant and colorful. They also export peanuts, cashews, palm oil and seafood products.

Many languages are spoken in Benin, French being the official language, but Fon and Yoruba are the most prevalent tribal languages. Known as the “Cradle of Voodoo,” which the locals call “Vodun” (meaning spirits,) is the official religion of Benin. But this is not what you are likely thinking. This religion is not about sticking pins in dolls and casting black magic spells to torture enemies. Their religion dates back to the thirteenth century. It is a complex system of beliefs, based on the primary belief, that one god created the world. Their god, called Mawa-Lissa (a woman,) is the master over a system of lesser gods and spirits and they do, actually, worship serpents and other animals. Nonetheless, Vodun followers peacefully coexist with Christians and Muslims. A former slave trading port, Ouidah, is the spiritual center for Vodun in Benin.

If you are a white person visiting Benin, you would likely be shouted at and called a “Yovo”. This is to get your attention so that you might wave and smile and perhaps, even talk. The Beninois are very friendly. Just don’t take a picture of them or any of their temples without permission. They believe that photography steals a piece of their soul.

The cuisine is very similar to other West African countries, with staples like maize, yam, salted fish, okra, rice, tomatoes, peppers, beans and couscous. The main source of protein is chicken and goat, but fish and seafood are also common dishes. Fruits, such as mangoes, oranges, pineapple and bananas, are abundant in the south of Benin.

So let’s eat!

The Menu

Appetizer
Akkra Funfun
(A deep fried, white bean fritter)

Main Course

Ago Glain (served with rice)
(A dish of crabs cooked in tomato,
onion and peanut butter sauce)

Dessert
Beninese baby bananas in orange sauce, served over vanilla Ice cream.

We turned on the music of Benin’s superstar, Angelique Kidjo, who graced us with her homespun, rhythmic beat. We set the table with beautiful cotton fabrics in the colors of the Benin flag; red, yellow and green.

We began the meal with the bean fritters, served up just after cooking, to optimize their crispiness. The palm oil added an interesting flavor as well. Of course we only ate with our right hand, as would be customary there.

The main course was crab, with a complement of tomato, onion and peanut butter (reminiscent of the side dish we had made from Angola.) It was a wonderful fusion of flavors.

For dessert, the warm baby bananas drizzled with a delicious blood orange sauce and served over creamy vanilla ice cream, was a lovely end to our Beninese meal.

There are many proverbs in Benin, which is a way for the elders to hand down wisdom to the younger generations. Historically, the proverbs would be illustrations, rather than written words. The proverbs of the kings were shown on top of their Asen (the metal poles they carried).

I leave you this week with a few of them:

The picture: a cat eating a fish.
Meaning: Do not employ a cat to sell fish.

The picture: Two birds trying to put their heads into a small pot.
Meaning: There can only be one captain of a ship.

The picture: an egg
Meaning: your words are like an egg, once they break you cannot take them back, so think before you speak.

Until next week,

Warmest regards,
Darlene

Algeria is the 11th largest country in the world, located in northwestern Africa and spreads some 920,000 square miles. It gets its name from the capital city “Algiers” located on the Mediterranean Sea. Algeria's history goes back more than 1.8 million years. The indigenous people, called Berbers, were pushed away from the coastline by their frequent invaders. She was occupied by the French in 1830 and only gained independence July 5th of 1962. Algeria's enticing neighbors include; Libya, Mali, Mauritania, Tunisia, Niger, Western Sahara and Morocco.

Algerian cuisine, known for its flavorful and often spicy seasonings, takes it cues from the Berbers, Turks, Arabs, Spanish and French. Some Algerian essentials include “ras el honout”, a North African spice mix that can contain from 8 to 100 spices and varies by region. Other common spices include saffron, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, cumin, cilantro or coriander, garlic, onion and mint.

Most of Algeria is a vast expanse of drifting sands in the Saharan Desert. Eighty percent of the population is Arab while the remainder is Berber. The population is predominantly Muslim, so pork is not consumed, nor is alcohol.

Couscous is considered the national dish of Algeria. In Arabic is it pronounced “Kuskusi”. It is commonly mistaken as a grain but it is actually a pasta made with granules of durum wheat called semolina and water. The dough is pressed through a sieve to create tiny pellets. Making it from scratch is becoming a lost art, as it is easily found packaged. In Algeria they have a special cooking vessel called a Quadra el ta’am or a Couscousier. This special pot consists of two compartments, the bottom section is used to cook the sauce, meat and vegetables. The upper portion is like a colander which allows the steam to permeate the couscous, infusing the flavors of the sauce and meat below.
Lamb is the meat most often consumed in Algeria. The most popular Algerian recipe is merguez, a special handmade spicy lamb sausage that originated along the Atlas Mountains and has worldwide notoriety.

Another cooking apparatus used is the tadjine, handmade in parts of Algeria. It is used to cook their many specialties, especially in the western part of the country. The Algerian tadjine is different than the Moroccan tagines as it is a flat, clay griddle, used to make flat breads and even Algerian pancakes. They use decorative tagines that look similar to the Moroccan versions but are glazed to showcase their vibrant culinary creations.

The chosen flavors of Algeria….

The Menu
Appetizer
Hmiss  (Roasted Pepper Dip)

Kesra Rakhis (Algerian Flat Bread)

Soup
Chorba/Shorba (Chicken and Chickpea Soup)

Main Course
Lahm Lhalou (Lamb Stew with Prunes)

Dessert
Maltši Tamr (Stuffed Dates)

For the setting, I chose the coffee table. In Algeria you would likely eat at a low to the ground table called a tbla or mida. I placed a copper basin of perfumed water on the table to wash our hands. In Algeria , the food is eaten with the thumb, forefinger and middle finger of the right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean. One should never use more than three fingers; that is considered rude and a sign of overeating. Food is always passed to the right.

The meal began with the crispy flat bread and roasted red pepper dip, reminiscent of chips and salsa. It was refreshingly spicy. Next we tried the chicken and chickpea soup. I loved both the texture and flavors of this unique soup. Our main course was lamb stew and prunes served over couscous. We savored each sumptuous bite. We finished our meal with stuffed dates and a hot mint tea; a perfect ending to an outstanding and exotic meal.

I leave you with a couple of Algerian proverbs:

Lahna yegleb laghna which means, peace wins over wealth

and

Ki nchouf ham el nass nansa hami – When I think of the others misfortunes, I forget mine.

Warmest regards, Darlene