Search Results for: Samoa

How did Samoa get its name?

There are many legends about how Samoa got its name.  One that comes up often is, that Moa was the family name of the Tui Manus, some of the earliest inhabitants of the islands.  SaMoa, simply refers to the family name.  At one time they controlled a Pacific empire, extending over Tonga, Fiji, the Cook Islands, and more.  The independent state of Samoa was formerly known as Western Samoa.

Where is Samoa located?

Samoa is located south of the equator, in the Polynesian region of the Pacific Ocean, about halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand.  The Polynesian group of nine islands, consists of two main islands, Upolu and Savaii, which makes up 99% of the land, and seven smaller islets.

Samoa is a land of many natural wonders including:  rain forests, waterfalls, beautiful white sand beaches and intricate caves.  The Samoan people are very proud of their incredible nature and have taken important steps to protect it.  The majority of endemic species there are birds.  The tooth billed pigeon is the national bird and has no close living relatives, but is genetically similar to the extinct dodo bird.

The warm seawater is filled with marine life including dolphins and whales, as they migrate through the region.  Turtles are often spotted there as well.  Diving and snorkeling are excellent in the crystal clear, Samoan water.

A Brief History of Samoa

The Polynesian ancestors were guided by the stars as they rowed in their sea-faring canoes across the Pacific Ocean thousands of years ago.  Samoa’s oldest known site of human inhabitation is Mulifanua, on the island of Upulo, some 3000 years ago, around 1000 BC.

Over the early years, the Samoan people engaged in battles, trade and intermarriage of nobility with the neighboring islands of Fiji and Tonga.  The interweaving of the cultures and bloodlines have strengthened the ties between these South Pacific islands.

Dutchman, Jacob Roggeveen, was the first European to site the islands in 1722.  European whalers and traders started to arrive in the late 1700s.  By far, the most important change in Samoa was due to the western missionaries.  They, along with the arrival of Reverend John Williams in 1830, converted the people from their belief in multiple gods for the sun, earth, heavens and sea, to one God.  Samoans are now a devoutly religious people with much time given to church activities.  In nearly all of the villages they have a daily prayer curfew between 6-7 pm.  It is called “Sa” and lasts for about 20-30 minutes, often marked at the beginning and end by a bell ring or the blowing of a conch shell.  For many Samoans, Christianity and fa’a Samoa (Samoan way of life) are inextricably woven.

In 1899, after years of civil war, the islands of the Samoan archipelago were divided.  The Germans took the islands to the west and the Americans took the islands to the east, now known as American Samoa.

After the beginning of World War I, New Zealand captured Western Samoa from the small German company that was stationed there.  After the war, New Zealand took administrative control on behalf of the United Nations from 1918 until they gained their independence, in 1962.  Western Samoa became the first Pacific island to gain independence.  It was in 1997 when Western Samoa dropped the Western from its name and was called simply, Samoa.  They celebrate Independence, June 1^st-3^rd, each year.

Samoan Culture

The vast majority of Samoans possess Polynesian heritage, with about 93% identifying themselves as ethnically Samoan.  Euronesians account for about 7%.  This is a mix between European and Polynesian ancestry.  Most of the population speaks Samoan, a language closely related to Maori and Tongan languages.  It is believed to be among the oldest of the Polynesian dialects.  There are two official languages in Samoa, Samoan and English.  English is used mostly for business communications.

The term fa’a Samoa means the Samoan way and refers to a complex cultural code that guides and teaches individuals how to lead their life.  It is governed by protocols and etiquette, all in accordance with core values within fa’a Samoa.  These values include family, language, the environment, genealogy, the arts (including tattooing,) as well as political and social structures.  The Christian values brought to the islands were fully integrated into fa’a Samoan life.

Fa’a Samoa has three key elements to it.  The matai (chiefs), aiga (extended family), and the church.  Matai are the heads of the extended family unit and their role is very complex; covering family, civic and political duties in the village.  There are 362 nu’u (villages) found throughout the islands, with a total of 18,000 matai.

The aiga, or extended family, is made up of parents, brother, sisters, children and grandparents, cousins, nieces and nephews living within the village.  When family members marry partners in other villages, the in-laws become part of the extended family unit.  It is the duty of a Samoan to be of service to their aiga for life.

Tatua (tattoo) is a traditional art form that represents the spiritual and cultural heritage of Samoa.  It is seen as a rite of passage for men where the intricate pattern of the pe’a covers the body from the waist to the knees.   Master tattooists use traditional handmade tools made from bone, tusk, shark teeth, shell and wood.  Women also get tattoos, called malu, but they cover only the thighs.

Siapo (tapa) is used traditionally as clothing and is an important part of traditional ceremonies.  This printed cloth is made from the inner bark of the mulberry tree and makes a wonderful souvenir.  Weaving toga (a fine mat) is another art form and one mat can take years to make as it is woven from very fine fibers of the pandanus plant.  Everyday items such as baskets and mats are woven with palm fronds.

Dance and music are also very important parts of Samoan culture.  Often these two elements are showcased in a fiafia night which includes a feast followed by a show of music and dance.  Storytelling, or siva is performed by young women, while the fast actions of the fa’ataupati or slap dance is performed by men.  This dance ends with siva afi or the fire knife dance, which is performed by young men twirling a large knife with burning flames at both ends, set to the rhythmic beat of a wooden drum.

Samoan Cuisine

Each day you will find young men paddling their canoes out in the lagoon to catch fish, while others go to the plantations to cultivate and harvest what is needed for their daily meals.  The ocean provides crayfish, snapper, mahi-mahi, octopus and tuna.  There is always a fresh catch of the day.  The plantations provide bananas, taro, tropical fruits and vegetables and of course, coconut.

Samoans traditional food is cooked in an uma (an earth oven of hot stones) which is placed on what is called fale, a stand that holds the uma.   Oil is not typically used.  Fish is wrapped in a banana leaf with freshly made coconut cream poured on top.   Pork and chicken are also popular proteins and are often cooked whole.  Taro and green bananas are tucked into the gaps.  When the food is placed on the hot coals, banana leaves are placed over the food to seal in the heat.  The food takes a while to cook; usually about 2 hours and it is not uncommon to cook meals in this way, three times per day.  A couple of delicacies include palusami (young taro leaves cooked in coconut cream)  and oka I’a (raw fish in coconut cream).

So let’s enjoy a Samoan meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Oka I’a (Raw Fish Salad)

Pani Popo (Coconut Rolls)

Main Course

Moa Fa’Asaina (Chicken Samoan Style)

Served with:

Alaisa Fa’Apopo (Coconut Rice)

Dessert

Poi  (Banana Pudding)

We set the scene with siapo, the printed tapa cloth, the traditional cloth made in Samoa.  We placed the a copy of the book called Treasure Island, written by the beloved Robert Louis Stevenson, who spent the last five years of his life with his family  there before his early death.  He was known to the Samoans as Tusitala or the “Teller of Tales.”   His homestead is now a museum and the most popular attraction in Samoa.  He is buried at the top of Mt. Vaea, which has the best views overlooking the city and bay.  We completed the scene with a photo of the rare national bird, the tooth billed pigeon, and the national flower, the red ginger, along with a coconut and some bananas.

Our first course was oka I’a, a raw fish salad that is popular on many of the Polynesian islands.  Similar to a Latin ceviche, the fish is first marinated in lemon or lime juice until the fish turns opaque.  The fish is then mixed with vegetables, like cucumber and tomato, and  doused with coconut milk.  I really love ceviche and oka I’a was no exception!

The oka I’a was served alongside the famous pani popo or coconut rolls that really were to die for.  The rolls are sweet and to be honest, I could have eaten the whole pan. They are that good.  (Consider it fair warning, if you decide to make them.)

For the main course, we prepared a Samoan style chicken that was cooked in a Dutch oven, which came as close as possible to an uma.  The chicken was cooked with a dark soy sauce, onions and vinegar, which resulted in deliciously tender bites, full of flavor.  It was served over steamed, coconut rice.  It was a perfect combination.

For dessert, we had a mashed, banana dessert called poi.  Samoan poi is not the same poi that is popular in Hawaii; theirs is made from taro stem.  This poi is more like a banana pudding and was the perfect sweet and creamy end to our Samoan meal.

Now if we were in Samoa for the meal, we likely would partake in kava or ava as they call it there.  A drink that is popular for celebrations and ceremonies and comes from the roots of a small shrub.  It’s considered non-alcoholic but psychoactive.

As we say goodbye to this little Island paradise in the South Pacific, I leave with a few words written by an English poet, Rupert Brooke, on a trip to Samoa in the 1800s.

“You lie on a mat in a cool Samoan hut and look out on the white sand under the high palms and gentle sea, and the black line of the reef a mile out and moonlight over everything.   And then among it all are the loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like gods and goddesses.  It is sheer beauty, so pure it is difficult to breathe in it.”

“Tofa”  pronounced toh-far in Samoan means “Goodbye.”

Until next time,

Darlene

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How did Tonga get its name?

Tonga comes from the Polynesian language’s word “fakatonga,” which means “southwards.”  Tonga is the archipelago’s southern most group of islands that makes up central Polynesia. 

Where is Tonga located?

Tonga is located in Oceania; within a small archipelago in the south Pacific Ocean.  It lies directly south of Samoa and about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

It has 169 islands, however only 36 of them are inhabited.  These islands are in three main groups – Vava’u, Ha’apai, and Tongatapu, the latter is the largest island and where the capital city of Noku’alofa is located.  They are quite spread out, over about 500 miles.

Tonga is located in the “Ring of Fire,” where earthquakes and volcanic activity are common. 

A brief history of Tonga

The earliest known inhabitants of Tonga were the Austronesian people, from about 3000 years ago, known as Lapita.  They were famous for their elaborately decorated pottery. 

Beginning in the 10th century AD, Tonga was ruled by a line of sacred kings and queens known as the Tui’I Tonga.  Over the centuries, there have been power transfers, up until the third line of Monarchs, the Tu’I Kanokupolu, who eventually became the permanent rulers.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Over the years, the islands were visited by many navigators, beginning with the Dutch in 1616.  Captain James Cook who famously called Tonga, “The Friendly Islands,” visited them on a few occasions in the 1770s. 

The Spanish arrived in 1793.  It was, however, the arrival of the Wesleyan Methodist missionaries in the 1820s, that had the greatest influence in Tonga.

Tonga is very prideful that they were the only Pacific Island nation that wasn’t colonized by European power.  They did become a British protectorate in 1900 through a friendly agreement but became a fully independent nation in 1970.

In the late 20^th century and early 21^st century, pressure grew for political reform, moving towards a more democratic society.  Tonga still has a king and is run as a constitutional monarchy, but there is now a prime minister and a parliament.

Tongan culture

Tonga is home to about 105,000 inhabitants.  It also has a large diaspora population that sends remittances to their native lands as they live and work abroad.  Ninety-eight percent of the Tongan population are Polynesian, with a few Europeans, Chinese and other Pacific Islanders. The official languages are Tongan and English.

There are four core values that guide Tongan society.  They are: mutual respect (Fetaka’apa’ apa’ aki,) sharing, cooperating and fulfilment of mutual obligations, (Feveitokai’aki,) humility and generosity (Lototoo,) and loyalty and commitment (Tauhi Vaha’a.)

Family is the central unit in Tongan life and elders command the most respect.  Family may include distant relatives, cousins and of course siblings,parents and grandparents. It is said the respect for family is a reflection of Tongan’s love of the Royal family.

Tonga is unique in that its society is entwined with Christianity.  The Royal family are devout Methodists, as are a large percentage of Tongans.  On Sundays there are no flights scheduled, no business contracts allowed and no sporting activities.  Only essential businesses are open on Sundays.  There are harsh penalties and even imprisonment, if this rule is broken.  Sunday is meant to be a day of rest to attend church and feast with family and community.

Sunday is also a day for kava (a spicy, murky, drink made from the ground roots of a pepper plant,) often enjoyed before and after church.  Kava is said to relax the body and makes your lips and tongue numb.  It is a ceremonial drink and nearly every village has a Kava club that is a popular place for the  men of the village to gather in the evenings.

Handicrafts, in the form of mats and tapa cloth, have been an artform in Tonga for centuries.  Typically, made by women, the weaving of mats takes skill, patience, and a sense of design.  Often the goods are sold directly by the people who make them, so there is a personal connection.  Wood carving, bone carving and basket weaving are also important skills.

Tapa making and painting is still all done by hand.  The bark of the mulberry tree is used and beaten with wooden mallets.  This sound is heard from early morning until sunset and is one of Tonga’s most familiar sounds.  Women gather in their homes or at the village’s communal tapa house to assist each other in this art form.  Tapa are given as traditional gifts and make great souvenirs.

Music and Tongan dance are also important pieces of their society and culture. Dance movements are graceful and visually enhance the subtle melodies of sung poetry.

There are many traditional Tongan dances which express stories of Tongan history and legends. There is one dance called “Lakalaka,” in which a head feather called a “tekiteki” is worn.  The feather enhances the dancer’s head movements and is the most important component in the dance.  It is recognized as a UNESCO masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Tongan cuisine

Being tropical islands in the South Pacific, makes seafood very important in the Tongan diet.  Both fish and shellfish are still speared by hand by the native people.  Fish is oven baked in leaves in the traditional underground oven called, the “umu.”  It is also often consumed raw with coconut milk and sea water.  

Meat, including suckling pig, chickens, corned beef, and sheep are a few of the more popular meats.  Sadly, the introduction of some of these items have made Tonga the most obese country in the world. 

Tongans are a genetically large and strong people; the previous king was the largest Monarch in history, weighing in at 209 kgs, (460 lbs.)  He suffered from diabetes and heart disease before his death in 2006.  In his later years, he did shed quite a bit of weight and worked out three times a week to be an inspiration to his people.

Taro, yams, bananas, coconuts, breadfruits and tapioca are all important staples.  Tropical fruit also plays a central role in Tongan cuisine.  Oranges, limes and lemons, along with watermelon, onions, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes and pumpkin, are considered new foods, brought to the islands by westerners.

When Tongans feast they will serve up to 30 different dishes on a “pola;” a long tray made from coconut fronds.  Some dishes like beota’ika (marinated raw fish,) lu pulu (corned beef and coconut milk, wrapped in taro leaves,) wrapped vegetables, boiled in coconut cream and of course meat, seafood and octopus, are revered. Food and feasting are an integral part of Tongan society.

So let’s enjoy a Tongan meal:

The Meal

Starter

Ota Ika (Raw fish Salad)

Main Course

Lo’I Feke (Octopus in coconut cream)

Served with

Otai (Watermelon drink)

Dessert

Faikakai Malimali

(Banana dumplings with sweet coconut syrup)

For our dinner, we set out tapa cloths and shells, along with bright red flowers to represent the national flower called “Garcinia Sessilis.”  This was to give us the feeling of being on an island paradise.  Red is the national color of Tonga.

We also placed a small wooden boat and a white star, to represent how Tongans have learned to use the stars like a compass, along with currents and winds.  They are skilled at navigating the ocean in their canoe-like boats.  We put on  Tongan love songs and began our meal by saying grace, which is common in Tonga. 

Our first course was the national dish, called ota ika.  It is basically a ceviche.  Ours was made with fresh tuna, mixed with tomatoes, onions and a touch of chili.  The fish is first marinated in lime juice and then served with coconut milk. 

Ceviche is one of my favorite dishes, so this was a big hit!  I really liked the addition of the coconut milk, which gave it a bit of sweetness and a creaminess to the dish.

Our main course also came from the sea and was another recipe featuring coconut.  It was octopus (another favorite), onion and coconut cream.  Three simple ingredients, made this a scrumptious dish.  

We enjoyed our meal with a wonderful drink called otai, made with tropical fruits and watermelon.  It was like a delicious smoothie and we savored it.  

For dessert, we served faikakai malimali, which are little, banana dumplings that we dipped into a sweet coconut syrup. 

After dinner, I couldn’t help but reminisce about a fond memory from my childhood.  I come from three generations of Methodist ministers.  You see, I am a “PK” or a preacher’s kid.  I have wonderful memories of a Tongan family who was part of our congregation in Culver City, California. 

I remember they would dig a giant pit on the church grounds to make an umu. This was the oven that would roast a whole pig which was served along with other Tongan specialties.  I also remember them singing and dancing for us. They were so beautiful and graceful and had amazing voices. They always made me want to take a trip to Tonga.

As we say goodbye to Tonga, it is with a prayer of hope.  They recently suffered from a massive underwater volcanic eruption on January 15^th,2022, that triggered tsunamis that covered  the islands in ash, and knocked out communications entirely. 

Satellite images recorded the mushroom cloud covering 650km, (over 400 miles) one hour after the initial eruption.  One thing is certain, the Tongans are a resilient and strong people who will no doubt rebuild their beautiful and friendly islands.

Until next time,

“Nofo”  (Good bye in Tongan)

Warmest regards,

Darlene  

How did Solomon Islands get its name?

It was 1568 when the Spanish Navigator, Alvaro de Mendana, discovered the islands.  He named the archipelago, “Islas Salomon,” believing this was the area of the South Pacific where King Solomon got the gold  he used to build the Temple of Jerusalem.  The name was changed upon their independence to “Solomon Islands,” removing “The” from the official name.

How did Tuvalu get its name?

Tuvalu used to be called, “The Ellice Islands” or “Lagoon Islands.”  Tuvalu is an old name meaning “Eight Standing Together.”  Although Tuvalu has a total of nine islands; three reef islands and six true atolls, only eight were inhabited, as one has very little land that is above sea level.   The name reverted back to Tuvalu when it gained its independence.

Where are Solomon Islands located?

Solomon Islands consists of six major islands and over 900 smaller islands, located in Oceania.  They lay east of Papua, New Guinea, northeast of Australia and northwest of Vanuatu.  The islands cover a land area of about 11,000 square miles.  The country’s capital is Honiara, located on the Island of Guadalcanal.

Where is Tuvalu located?

Tuvalu is also located in Oceania, in Polynesia, in the Pacific Ocean.  It lies about 2500 miles northeast of Australia and is approximately half way between Hawaii and Australia.  It lies east-northeast of the Santa Cruz Islands, which belong to Solomon Islands.  Also, it is southeast of Nauru, south of Kiribati, northwest of Samoa and north of Fiji.  It is a tiny, country, covering only ten square miles of land. However, they are spread out over a large, economic zone of 289,500 square miles.  The highest elevation is only 15 feet above sea level.  Global warming and rising sea levels are major concerns for this country.

A brief history of Solomon Islands

Solomon Islands are believed to have been settled by Austronesian people, sometime around 2000 BC.  For centuries, many self-governing villages speaking separate languages lived on the six, big, volcanic islands and scores of atolls in the Melanesian archipelago.  They lived largely unbothered by foreigners until the 1800s, when traders and missionaries from Europe, America and Australasia arrived to barter food, labor and goods. 

In 1886, a German protectorate was established over the northern islands.  In 1893, the southern islands became a British protectorate until 1899, when all of it was transferred to British control.  The British interest was in the supply of workers to fuel the sugar estates in Queensland and Fiji, much more than it was for the protection of the islands.  Disease and tribal wars followed and many areas known as “waste lands” were leased to foreign companies to produce rubber, copra (the dried kernel of the coconut) and vegetable oil.

Solomon Islands had only their land and labor to sell.  For years, young, fit men were taken forcefully by “Blackbirders” (Slave Traders)  to Fiji and Queensland.  They were often brutally treated but by the 1920s conditions somewhat improved.  Living together on plantations gave men the chance to learn a common language known as “Pijin English.”  By the mid-twentieth century, many Chinese had come to settle, displacing European traders and plantation owners.

During World War II, Japanese forces occupied Solomon Islands.  The counter attack was led by the US Marines who landed on Guadalcanal and Tualgi in August of 1942.  Some of the most brutal fighting of World War II took place on the Islands for nearly three years.

Solomon Islands eventually gained independence on July 7, 1978.  Like many newly, independent nations, there has been ongoing ethnic violence.  In July of 2003, the Governor General issued an official request for international help.  Australia committed the largest number of troops to restore order and police the islands.   Although things have gotten better on the islands, ethnic tensions remain.  The government is a parliamentary democracy under a constitutional monarchy. 

A brief history of Tuvalu

It is believed the earliest settlers on the islands were Samoans, Tongans and settlers from other Polynesian islands sometime around the 14^th century AD.  A couple of the islands were then discovered by the Spanish, in two separate expeditions, in 1568 and 1595.  

In 1819, a ship owned by Edward Ellice of Britain visited Funafuta and named the islands “Ellice islands.”  From 1850-1875 there was a dark period where “Blackbirding” took place; the kidnapping of islanders for forced labor on plantations in Fiji and Queensland.  Between this and European diseases brought there, the population diminished from about 20,000 down to 3,000. 

 In 1877 the Ellice Islands become a British protectorate.  In 1916 the Gilbert islands joined the colony, until 1974 when 90% of the Polynesians voted for separation.  In 1975 the islands were renamed “Tuvalu” and full Independence was given on October 1, 1978.  In 1989 the UN  listed Tuvalu as one of a number of island groups most likely to disappear beneath the sea in the 21^st century, due to global warming.  It remains the country’s number one concern. 

Due to salinization of the soil, subsistence farming became extremely difficult.  Thankfully, the country got lucky on two fronts;  in 1998, it began leasing its 900 number to a foreign company, and then it established its TV revenue.  The TV agreement with a US company generated enough funds for Tuvalu to apply to join the United Nations in 2000.  The lease expires in 2020 but will have proven to be highly lucrative.  They also make money with their postage stamps and coinage, both of which are sought by collectors.

Solomon Islands Culture

The population of the Solomon Islands is about 690,000.  The majority of the people are ethnically Melanesian, but there is a small percentage of Micronesian and Polynesian, as well as ethnic Chinese.  The official language is English, but there are 63 other distinct languages.  Most people speak pidgin known as “Solomon’s Pijin.” 

Most islanders live in close knit communities of extended families, and while largely Christian, many still follow traditional systems of beliefs.  Land ownership, they call Kastom, refers to their traditional Melanesian roots.  Although nearly 70,000 people live in the capital city of  Honiara, the majority still live in rural villages, based on a subsistence economy of fishing, hunting and growing crops.  People still barter and use shells for money, although they do have their own currency.  Most houses are built on stilts to keep their homes cooler and most don’t have electricity, telephones or other modern amenities. 

Music and art play an important role.  Traditional music uses instruments such as the slit drums, panpipes and the conch shell.  Solomon Islanders are also known for their handicrafts, like intricately carved, dark ebony hardwood with inlaid mother of pearl.  Basket weaving and wicker weaving are also traditional art forms. 

On the islands about ten percent of the indigenous dark skinned people have strikingly, blonde hair.  Some islanders theorize that it was due to a diet rich in fish or excess sun exposure or from distant European ancestors.  It turns out, a geneticist discovered a gene variant responsible for blond hair on the islanders, that is distinctly different from the gene that causes blond hair in Europeans.

Tuvalu Culture

The population of Tuvalu is only 11,000 today.  The tiny islands’ nation is the second least populated and fourth smallest, landmass of any country.  It is listed as the least visited country in the world.  It has strong Polynesian culture with a laid back and friendly attitude.  Pacific island traditions are commonplace in Tuvaluan culture.  This is most evident in their dance.  Fatele is the traditional dance that is performed to celebrate leaders and was performed when Prince William and his wife officially visited the islands in 2012. 

Each family has skill sets known as salanga, which are performed within the community. The typical trades are fishermen, house builders, and boat builders and these trades are passed on from parents to their children.  They have community halls known as falekapule  where villagers gather for general meetings and celebrations.  The Tuvaluan community is extremely close knit.  Nearly the entire population is Christian which was the religion brought to Tuvalu with the earliest European settlers.  The official language is Tuvalu which is similar to Polynesian.  English is also spoken and taught in schools.

Solomon Islands and Tuvalu Cuisine

Solomon Islands have more land mass to grow food and therefore have a bit more variety in their cuisine than Tuvalu.  Both countries rely on imports from neighboring countries.  The main staple of Solomon Islands is fish, which is cooked in all sorts of ways from grilling, to boiling, to frying.  The fish is served with an assortment of side dishes which include coconut, sweet potatoes, rice, taro roots, taro leaves, cassava, bananas and their very famous breadfruit called ulu.  Poi, is made with fermented taro root and is considered the national dish of Solomon Islands.

In Tuvalu, they also have an abundance of seafood choices and therefore fish, crabs and even sea birds are the typical protein.  Coconut, in one form or another, is used in nearly every dish.  They have a different sort of taro that grows which is called “swamp taro” and the root and leaves are used to make side dishes along with bananas and breadfruit.

So let’s enjoy a meal from the Islands:

Menu

Appetizer

Taro Root Chips

Main Dish

Tuna Coconut Curry

Served with:

Palusami  (Corned Beef with Taro Leaves and Coconut)

Dessert

Coconut Pudding

We set the scene by displaying staple ingredients from both islands, on top of a tapa cloth. We added palm fronds and shells for a little island flair.

For the first course, we nibbled on some fried taro root chips that were simply lightly salted.  Taro root is a resistant starch and is considered to be good for the gut. 

For the main course, we had a tuna coconut curry, that was served with rice.  It was fantastic.  We absolutely loved the flavors; with spice from the curry powder and hot chilies.  Of course, you must use very fresh tuna, like you would get on the Islands.  If you wanted to be adventurous, you could make your own coconut milk as they would there. However, the recipe can easily be made with canned coconut milk.

The tuna was served alongside a favorite dish; popular in both countries, called palusami.  It is a surprisingly easy to make dish.  Although some people may shy away from canned, corned beef, (aka spam) one can imagine how much the taste of meat, an occasional break from fish, is a welcomed flavor on these remote islands.  It would typically be made with taro leaves, which you likely can find in a good Asian store, otherwise you can substitute spinach, which is also very tasty.

For dessert, we enjoyed a simple coconut pudding that reminded us a bit more of jello than a pudding.  The pieces were served in a coconut shell.  It was a sweet treat to end our Island meal. 

To be honest, finding recipes for these incredibly, remote Oceania islands was challenging, to say the least.  I am certain my recipes from Marshall Islands, Kiribati, Papua New Guinea and Samoa would all be applicable to these island nations as well.  We loved our last experience on Christmas Island in Kiribati.  Perhaps a fishing trip to these remote islands is in order as well.  One thing is for certain, the ocean is a truly spectacular paradise for divers, snorkelers and fishermen.

As we say goodbye to these islands, I leave with a hope of peace for Solomon Islands and a prayer for Tuvalu, that it remains above sea level. 

Until next time,

Tofa   (Goodbye in Tuvalu)

Lukim iu. (Goodbye in Pijin)

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

Kiribati is pronounced, Kir-i-bas. Ti is spoken as an “s” and means Gilbert or Tungaru, as many of the islands that make up Kiribati used to be known as the Gilbert or Tungaru Islands. The other island groups are known as the Phoenix Islands and Line Islands. This nation of islands is made up of 32 coral atolls and one solitary island, called Banaba. (An atoll is a ring-shaped, coral reef including a coral rim that encircles a lagoon.) The entire square footage of all the islands combined is only 313 square miles. Yet Kiribati controls about 1,000,000 square miles in the Central Pacific Ocean for fishing and other rights. Of the 33 islands, only 21 are inhabited. The capital of Kiribati is Tarawa, an atoll in the Gilbert Islands. Kiribati is located on the equator and is the only nation on earth that is in all four hemispheres.

The largest atoll there and in the world is called Kiritimati, or Christmas Island, which is 235 square miles. The majority of all the atolls are barely above sea level. I distinctly remember seeing a sign when our Air Tungaru flight landed on Christmas Island that said, “Welcome to Christmas Island, Highest elevation five feet.” There is something a little unnerving about that. There was only one flight, in or out of Christmas Island per week, so our journey would last seven days, no matter what.

When I met my husband Dan, his number one hobby was fishing. Christmas Island is known to be one of the premier bonefish destinations in the world. Bonefish are also known as the “grey ghosts.” There is no affiliation to our beloved author Zane Grey, although he has written some wonderful tales about them. One rare, Zane Grey pamphlet worth collecting, is called, “The Bonefish Brigade”, which was sent to his friends as a Christmas gift. Zane Grey did have an affiliation with Christmas Island. His yacht, “The Fisherman” was sold to a Frenchman who owned several coconut groves there. Father Rogier converted “the Fisherman” to a freighter and used it to transport copra (dried coconut meat). The name was changed back to “Marshal Fuch”, the original name of the boat. Copra remains a very important revenue source for Kiribati.

Before we ventured to Christmas Island, I had to learn how to fly fish. That was how we would fish for the elusive bonefish. Needless to say, Dan made sure I was outfitted to the hilt. For you fishing enthusiasts, I had the first, Sage three fly rod ever built, along with a beautiful, Billy Pate fly reel. I was taught to fly fish by two of the best in the world; Lefty Krey and Mel Kreiger. I also learned how to tie flies, as we needed to bring a gross of Crazy Charlies with us (that is the name of the fly, used to catch them.) I tied all 144 of them myself. When we arrived on the island, our home would be the Captain Cook Hotel. The accommodations consisted of thatched roof bungalows right on the beach. I wondered why there were brooms placed all over, and it became clear, rather quickly. Christmas Island is home to the red, land crab. They are pretty good sized and all over the place. The brooms were there to shoo them out from under the bed or out of the shower. I remember one night when we were returning to the room for the evening, one was sprawled right across the handle of the door to the bungalow, and nearly gave us a heart attack. They were on the appetizer menu every evening and I can attest that they are mighty tasty.

I always felt terrible when the guide would drive us to our fishing destination and kill so many of those creatures as we drove along. They just could not be avoided. It is estimated that 40-50 million of these bright red, land crabs live in shady sites all over the island. It was also the time of the annual migration of these creatures. Today they are protected and several crossings and road closures are now in place during the migration.

Words cannot begin to express how beautiful a coral atoll is in the middle of the Pacific. It is the water that takes your breath away. We would fish on the flats, in crystal clear water, a little less than knee high. Just off the flats, you would be in deep water. The colors of the water would change based on the depth, from azure blue to aquamarine. It is simply stunning!

Let’s just say, in these parts, high and low tides are very important events with which to concern yourself. Some days we would drive to a location but had to return by making our way across a giant pipe, carrying our belongings above our heads to avoid getting them wet as the tide rose. Where you could walk on land in the morning was completely under water by the afternoon.

On this particular day, we were out fishing the flats with our two guides and nature called, (I had to use the restroom, which was nonexistent.) My husband suggested that I just go off the flat into the deep water. That day I was wearing some brightly colored, flowered pants. When I jumped off the flat, I got instantly circled by about six or seven black tip, reef sharks that must have thought I was a rare, new species. Needless to say, I freaked, yet somehow I managed to get myself back up on the flat. My urge to use the restroom had strangely vanished. Nothing happened to me, other than my nerves were a bit rattled and after that, even the tiny, foot long sharks that were all over the flats, began to startle me. A couple hours later, my urge to use the restroom returned. I espied an island about a quarter mile away and decided I would go there and find a tree or bush. I don’t know if you have ever seen the movie “The Birds” by Alfred Hitchcock? As I approached the island, birds starting dive bombing me and hovering inches from my face. I had to use my fly rod to defend myself and all I heard from a quarter mile away was “Don’t use the fly rod.” I guess the fly rod was more valuable than I thought. It turns out this little island was a nesting colony for sooty terns and they were simply protecting their nests. Thankfully, I didn’t die by birds! It is no coincidence that Christmas Island is also a great destination for bird watchers.

The next day, we took a break from the bone fishing and went out on the only boat suitable to fish the blue waters. It is no exaggeration to say the waters provided a literal smorgasbord of fish. Our day began with us almost immediately catching a tuna. The captain insisted that we keep the fish we caught, which was not our normal practice. (We almost always catch and release.) The boat was quite expensive to rent and we figured he probably wanted the fish to take care of the locals on the island. We had a blast catching tuna and then said “what else do you have in these waters?” About ten minutes later, we arrived at the wahoo, or ono, fishing isle. These are super fun fish to catch. The only problem was our captain only had silver swivels. The wahoo kept stealing away the lures by the swivel since the shininess of the silver attracts them. We still caught many ono, despite that dilemma, until we had our fill. (My husband sent the captain a whole bunch of black swivels after we returned home.)

Next, we were on our way to fish for giant trevally. On our way there, we were trolling and something very large latched on to our lure down and darted straight out. (This was on a Penn International, 50 wide reel, with about 850 yards of 80lb test line.) Despite the captain backing down the boat as fast as he could, the fish, which we assume was a giant tuna, managed to spool the entire reel and when it got to the end, it sounded like a magnum pistol went off as it snapped the line. We will always wonder how big that fish was. Suffice it to say, we had never experienced anything like it.

Our destination for trevally fishing was near the shoreline and dotted with huge, underwater rocks. This is home to the giant trevally and by far the most fun fishing we had. You would throw the line out as far as you could, (it was a pencil popper on a spinning outfit, with light line) and you could see the huge fish come out from the rocks in the crystal clear water and slam that lure. We blew out the drag on every spinner we had, and ended up hand lining like the locals do. This was a day of fishing we will never forget and why Kiribati’s Christmas Island is one of the best fishing destinations in the world. Speaking of trevally, I actually caught a world record while I was there and didn’t even know it. I caught a small, blue trevally on a fly, which happened to be an open class in the record books for women.

The small populations of locals that live on the islands are Micronesian. Kiribati’s first inhabitants date back to 3000 BC. The islands became a protectorate of Great Britain in 1892. Kiribati gained independence in July of 1979 which also coincided with when phosphate being mined on the Island of Banaba, was depleted. I-Kiribati, is the official language, along with English. The majority religion is Christianity but many maintain their mythological beliefs of “anti” or “spirits.”

Several islands in northern and central Kiribati, were occupied by the Japanese in World War II. The Battle of Tarawa was one of the bloodiest battles of that war. Today, several war relics remain on the islands and in the sea where tourists can view them first hand. The famed author, Robert Louis Stevenson, spent two months on the Abemama Atoll back in 1889. This is where the tyrant, Chief Binoka, resided and was immortalized by Stevenson is his book, “In the South Seas”. Today Chief Binoka’s gravesite is a tourist attraction.

As one may imagine, not much grows on coral atolls. They only have about 2% arable land. Coconuts and pandanus trees are native, along with pumpkins, taro, breadfruit, banana, papaya and mango. Worms in the soil prevent much else from growing. The locals have a few raised bed gardens to grow their greens but water is also a precious commodity. Evidently the worms dry out and die before they can reach the plants in the raised beds. Most of the food supply is brought in by plane or ship. Their main source of revenue comes from copra, seaweed, tourism and fishing industries.

As we look into the cuisine of Kiribati, fish, shellfish and coconuts are central to the diet. The coconut produces a flower spathe from which (the sap) is made into a toddy. It is rich in vitamins and can also be soured into vinegar or fermented into an alcohol. Taro and pumpkin are regularly consumed and rice, considered a staple food, as well as canned meats and condiments are all actually imported. Some natives raise chickens and pigs to get their meat to cook with on festive occasions. On our final night on Christmas Island, we enjoyed a Micronesian feast of roast pork (the whole pig was cooked in an underground pit) poi and rice was served and accompanied with native music and dancing. The natives came in their authentic dress of bark cloth sarongs, decorated with an amazing assortment of shells and put on a wonderful show for us. We found the natives to be very kind, warm and welcoming.

So let’s enjoy a Kiribati meal:

The Menu
Appetizer
Crab Claws with Cocktail Sauce

Soup
Pumpkin Coconut Soup

Main Dish
Glazed Mahi Mahi with White Rice and Pineapple

Dessert
Samoan Poi (Mashed Bananas with Coconut Cream)

We decorated our table with several souvenirs from our trip to Christmas Island. A sarong was used as our centerpiece with sea shells to adorn it. Palm fronds, coconut and bananas rounded out the setting.

Our first course was in honor of the red crabs that were so unforgettable. It was a crab cocktail made with snow crab. The thick claw meat was succulent and served with a typical ketchup and horseradish, cocktail sauce. (We ate crab claws every night as an appetizer when we were there.)

Our second course was a pumpkin and coconut cream soup. This sweet and savory soup can be enjoyed either hot or cold. Both pumpkins and coconuts grow plentifully on the islands there.

For the main course, we presented a glazed mahi mahi. The glaze was made of teriyaki, sugar, ginger and sesame seeds. The thick glaze was delicious on this perfectly cooked, flaky mahi mahi. This glaze would be wonderful on nearly any kind of fish or even chicken, simply scrumptious. Mahi mahi is common in the region, although it is sometimes called Dorado, in other parts of the world, or the dolphin fish (but it has no relation to “Flipper”.) The fish was served with plain white rice and crushed pineapple. Delicious.

For dessert, Samoan poi was served. It is basically mashed bananas with coconut cream that somewhat resembles a smoothie. Samoan poi is a perfect dessert to enjoy on a tropical coral atoll or anywhere for that matter, but is particularly refreshing on a hot day.

As we say goodbye to Kiribati, it is important to note that this will be the first country to be completely destroyed by climate change. It is estimated it will be totally submerged, due to the rising sea level, by the end of this century. The government has purchased land in Tahiti and has asked for assistance from New Zealand and Australia to help with the inevitable migration. I feel blessed to have visited this beautiful country and if you like fishing or just want an adventure, it is guaranteed to be a trip of a lifetime. As we departed the island, we noticed that ice chest after ice chest was labeled for the fish market in Hawaii. It turns out all that fish we caught on the blue water boat was headed there. After giving it some thought, it made sense that they would rather have cash to buy something they need rather than consume the fish that is readily abundant to them. We were happy for them.

PS I really am curious if you had ever heard of this country called Kiribati before?  Please let me know in the comments section below and thanks for being part of the journey!

Until next week,
Ti a boo (that means goodbye in Kiribati)
Warmest regards,
Darlene

The Republic of Fiji, as it is officially called, is an archipelago of more than 300 islands, with just over 100 inhabited. Located in the heart of the South Pacific, her neighbors are Vanuatu, to the west, New Caledonia, to the southwest, Samoa, to the northeast, Tuvalu, to the north, and Tonga, to the east. Interestingly, it was their neighbor Tonga that informed the James Cook expedition of the islands. It was a mispronunciation of the name Viti, which is why today the islands are called Fiji. The indigenous population has always referred to their islands as Viti, which means “east” or “sunrise” and they call themselves Kai Viti, (“the people of Viti.”) The two largest islands, called Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, are where nearly 90 percent of the population live. The International Date Line passes through Fiji, which makes it a popular destination to ring in the New Year. There is a place on Taveuni, the fourth largest island, where you can stand with one foot in the current date, and the other in a previous date.

Early explorers knew Fiji to be dangerous, with her perilous reefs but even more treacherous, were the cannibals. Fijian society had several cannibalistic tribes and within the tribes several clans. A missionary, by the name of Thomas Baker, was one of the victims of cannibalism. Fijians believe that the head is sacred and touching it considered to be an act of war. This was the cause of what happened to poor Mr. Baker, after he touched the village chief’s head. Today, one of his shoes remains on display in the Fiji museum. Thankfully now there is no cannibalism in Fiji, however the head is still considered sacred. In the villages, only the chief can wear a hat and sunglasses and you should never tap anyone on the head; it is considered to be extremely disrespectful.

It was the British that colonized Fiji in 1874. Looking for ways to economically grow the colony, the British decided to set up large scale, sugar plantations. Labor forces were scare so they brought in an Indian work force from Calcutta to mind the fields. This would forever change the face of Fijian history. Today the population is 51 percent Fijian and 44 percent Indian. The official language is English, with Fijian and Hindustani also spoken. The chief religions are Christian, Hindu and Muslim. Fiji became Independent from England in 1970.

Village life is still very much alive in Fijian culture. The ritual of offering Kava, or (yaqona) to the chief when visiting a village is still practiced today. Kava is considered to be the national drink. It is made from the dried roots of a pepper plant, called piper methysticum and it is common among Polynesian cultures. Once the roots are pounded and mixed with water it transforms into a drink with sedative and anesthetic properties. I had the opportunity to try this drink while in Fiji and well, I would say the taste is like a bitter, peppery, muddy, water. It will, however, help you sleep and may make your tongue and face a bit numb. If you are offered Kava or yaqona in Fiji, it will likely be done in a ceremonial fashion. You should dress conservatively for this event and you will be offered a seat on a mat that is placed on the ground. The chief will prepare the communal bowl of Kava. The chief, or highest ranking person, will drink first before it is shared with everyone else. Once presented, the chief will clap once before you drink and then three claps as you finish, so no sipping, drink it right down. The drinking of Kava is likely an acquired taste but the unity it brings to the community is clear; a true cultural gathering.

The Fijian islands are a true, tropical paradise. The water is so crystal clear, that it changes in color from emerald green to azure blue. It has white sand beaches and is famous for its soft, coral diving. Fiji is known as the “home to happiness” and the people are incredibly friendly. “Bula,” is how you say hello in Fiji and you will hear it everywhere you go. Today, Fiji is a tourist destination with numerous resorts for every budget. My husband and I were lucky enough to visit for our 16th wedding anniversary. We stayed on Turtle Island in a beautiful “bure” (that is what they call a house) right on the beach. The thatched roof bure was spectacular. If you ever saw the movie the “Blue Lagoon,” know it was filmed there. Honestly, it is hard to come up with proper words to describe the natural beauty of this place but despite its magnificence, what we were most impressed with were the Fijian people. Their amazing hospitality made us feel a real part of their community and family. We visited their village and dined with them in incredible Fijian flair. When it was time to leave, tears filled my eyes. It was so bitter sweet to say goodbye to our new, Fijian friends and one could stay here an eternity.

The cuisine in Fiji is awe-inspiring. Fresh fish and lobster are everywhere. Fiji is unique in the South Pacific with its many dishes cooked with a fusion of Indian influence, incorporating many curries and spices. Coconut milk and cream are also used often. The markets are packed with tropical fruits, citrus and tubers. Taro root, cassava, sweet potatoes and plantains are the main staples of their cuisine. Many villages have their own community gardens to provide fresh ingredients for their people.

One traditional way of preparing Fijian cuisine is called Lovo. This is a feast cooked in the earth. A makeshift oven is fashioned by digging a hole into the ground and lining it with coconut husks. They are then lit on fire and covered by stones. Meat, fish and vegetables wrapped in banana or taro leaves are placed on the hot stones. This is all covered back up with dirt and left to cook for a few hours. This method of cooking imparts a unique, smoky flavor to the food. A Lovo is usually reserved for special occasions like weddings or other important celebrations.

So let’s eat Fijian Style:

The Menu
Starter
Kokoda (Ceviche)

Served with Fried Taro Root

Main
Lobster Curry in Coconut Milk

Served with

Raita (Cucumber and Carrot Salad)

Dessert

Banana Cake

We decorated the mat with colors of the flag; a light blue representing the relationship of the Pacific Ocean to the islands. We used palm fronds and tropical fruits and flowers to set the scene. It is customary to eat on a mat on the floor in Fiji.

We started by saying “Da Kana!” (Bon appetite, in Fijian.) The first course was Kokoda, pronounced (ko-konda). Fijians always use an “n” sound in front of “d.” This dish is considered to be the national dish of Fiji and can be found all over the islands. Kokoda is an outstanding fresh fish ceviche (I used mahi-mahi )made with citrus and coconut milk and served with a side of fried taro root to scoop up that wonderful fresh goodness. A perfect way to begin our Fijian feast.

For the main course we had a lobster curry in coconut milk. This is an ideal way to experience the fusion of Indian and Fijian cuisine. The curry was perfectly spiced and the lobster was rich and succulent. We served it with plain white rice and an amazing creamy, cucumber and carrot salad called raita. It was wonderfully soothing to the palate to contrast the spicy, lobster curry.

For dessert, banana cake; this was the traditional way to end our meal. It is said there is never a Fijian party that does not have banana cake! We enjoyed our Fijian meal with what else but Fiji water. Yes it really does come from Fiji and yes, it really is delicious water.

Now we are off to play a round of golf in honor of their golf hero, Vijay Singh and then we will go canoeing. For centuries the Fijians have been famous for making incredible sea-worthy canoes used to visit the many islands of Fiji. It was fun to revisit this beautiful country, called by mistake, Fiji. Vanaka vaka levu (thank you!)

As we say goodbye, enjoy a couple Fijian proverbs:
Each bay, its own wind
and,
Life is like this: sometimes sun, sometimes rain

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene