Search Results for: Sri Lanka

How did Sri Lanka get its name?

“Lanka” is thought to be the first documented name for the island, in Sanskrit, dating back to 5114 BCE. ”Lanka” simply means “Island.”  Another theory is that the name was derived from the Tamil word “Ilanku” meaning “to shine,” or “to glitter.”  This name makes sense due to the glittering of gold and gems found on the island’s surface.

To be honest this island nation has more previous names than can be counted.  I think it must be a record.  In 622 BCE, Arabian Persian Traders called it “Serendib” or “Serendivi” (in Arabic).  The name is believed to have led Horace Walpole to create the word “serendipity” for the English language. 

Back in 960 A.D. an Arab author referred to Sri Lanka as “Saheelan.”  When the Portuguese and Dutch arrived the name remained similar until the British called it “Ceylon” in 1796 which remained until 1978 when it was changed officially changed to the “Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka.” “Sri” means “Resplendent.”  So, today Sri Lanka is known as the ”Land of Serendipity” or “Resplendent Island.”

Where is Sri Lanka located?

Another nickname of Sri Lanka is the “Teardrop of India,” which gives you an idea of the shape of the island, which is located just 21 miles at its closest point from the southeastern tip of India, in the Indian Ocean.  Sri Lanka is considered to be part of Asia. The Maldives lie to the southwest.  Sri Lanka is just slightly above the equator in the northern hemisphere and has a tropical climate.  It has two distinct monsoon seasons.  The capital city, Colombo, is known to be hot and humid.

A brief history of Sri Lanka

It is believed that Sri Lanka has been continuously inhabited for more than two million years.  The original inhabitants were hunters and gatherers from the Stone Age.  Somewhere around the fifth century BCE, immigrants from northern India arrived, forming the modern Sinhalese population.  The Sinhalese population was largely Buddhist and set up the first kingdom around Anuradhapura.  Early Buddhist emissaries brought a cutting from the Bodhi tree, under which Lord Buddha attained enlightenment.  This tree is still standing and is believed to be the oldest tree planted by human beings.  The tree remains an important pilgrimage site.

Tamils, from the south of India, arrived about two centuries after the Sinhalese.  Most Tamils are Hindu or Christian and are a minority in Sri Lanka.

The Portuguese arrived in 1505 and by 1518, having established good relations with the king, were allowed to build a fort at Colombo (the capital city today) for trade concessions, in exchange for the king’s protection.

Meanwhile, the Dutch established a trading fort in Galle, destroying the earlier Portuguese outpost.  Soon the Dutch East India Company controlled most of Ceylon.  However, after 300 years of colonial rule by the treaty of Amiens, Britain gave up control of Ceylon, just after the Napoleonic Wars.

Due to unrest during Colonial rule, the Ceylon National Congress was formed in 1919, uniting Sinhalese and Tamils.  Although some concessions were made, Ceylon did not gain independence until 1948.  Ceylon became the “Republic of Sri Lanka” in 1972. 

Unfortunately, tensions between the Sinhalese and Tamils erupted into a bloody civil war, lasting from 1983 to 2009.  It is estimated that the 26 year civil war resulted in tens of thousands of deaths.  After the fighting ended, a Tamil-nationalist, Catholic bishop claimed that 147,000 people, civilians and fighters, remained missing.  The war ended when the leader of the Tamils was killed.  Sri Lanka has been under scrutiny for war crimes against the Tamil. 

In 2004 Sri Lanka was also hit with a massive tsunami, killing 30,000 and displacing 1.5 million people.

Sri Lanka is a much different place today, as it has made huge strides in rebuilding their nation. The remaining Tamils and Sinhalese live relatively peacefully together.  Although Sri Lanka still has plenty of work to do, it is often on the list of the one of the best places to visit, due to the warmth of the Sri Lankan people and its beauty as a tropical paradise destination.  Unfortunately, there was a terrorist attack on Easter in 2019 that left 259 people dead and created travel warnings.  Most recently, the covid crisis will cause even more hardship in the rebuilding of the island.

Sri Lankan Culture

Sri Lanka was colonized by three different cultures all of which clearly left their influences.  The descendants of the Dutch settlers are called Burghers and they are still a considerably influential group.  The British brought over the ritual of high tea, which is still a custom in Sri Lanka today.  Tea plantations were established by the British as the interior mountainous region provided the perfect environment and climate.  Some of the world’s most famous teas still come from Sri Lanka; brands like Ceylon and Lipton.  Visiting tea plantations is a tourist highlight, as they are located in lush, green, picturesque locations.

The largest religious group remains the Buddhists.  The others are Hindus, Muslims and some Christians as well.  Visitors will find Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils, Muslim mosques and Christian churches, throughout the island.

There are three official languages in Sri Lanka: Sinhalese, Tamil and English.  The street signs are typically in all three languages but sometimes, only in English.

There are many UNESCO world heritage sites in Sri Lanka.  Some of the most prominent ones include: Sigiriya, an ancient fortress built atop a huge granite monolith, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s medieval capital, the Sacred City of Kandy, which has the highly revered Temple of the Tooth, along with the Golden Temple of Dambulla and the old Town of Galle.

Sri Lanka celebrates some 30 holidays per year.  Many are religious holidays that are public holidays for all to celebrate.  One holiday that is celebrated each month is called Poya; an island wide celebration of the full moon.  

Sri Lankan Cuisine

The official meal of Sri Lanka is rice and curry, a complete meal of steamed heirloom basmati rice surrounded by all sorts of different curries.  Curry comes in many forms in Sri Lanka: meats, poultry, fish and seafood, vegetables and even fruit.  Jack fruit curry is a specialty curry. 

As a tropical island with an abundance of vegetation, the cuisine uses all sorts of herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables and especially coconuts, which are ubiquitous throughout the country.  As a country that was a hub in the historic oceanic Silk Road, Sri Lanka traders brought in many new food items and inparted cultural influences which all helped to shape Sri Lankan cuisine.  Some say it is similar to South East Asian cuisine as well as the cuisine of the state of Kerala, in southern India.  Sri Lankan cuisine is spicy and hot, with the heat coming from an array of chilies.

Sri Lanka is famous for its cinnamon, which originated there.  It is often blended with black pepper, which is also indigenous.  Sri Lanka is most famous for its unique spice blends which include:  roasted and then ground coriander seed, cumin, fennel, clove, fenugreek and cinnamon, to name a few.  No doubt every cook in Sri Lanka has their own curry spice blend secrets.  Curry leaves are often used fresh, as are pandan leaves.

Sambols, especially coconut sambal, are served alongside just about everything, as are achars or pickled relishes.  It is not unusual to have multiple curries, sambols and achars served at one time.  Often a dhal (lentil) curry, is served as well.

Another famous Sri Lankan dish is the hopper.  It is a bowl made from a fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk.  There are special hopper pots that they are steamed or fried to make the bowl shape and then are often served with an egg, and sambols. 

Obviously as an island nation, fish and seafood play an important role in the cuisine.  One ubiquitous ingredient is called Maldive fish, which is a cured skip jack tuna that imparts a wonderful umami flavor to their dishes.

So let’s enjoy a Sri Lankan meal:

The Menu

Starter

 Kadala Thal Dala (Spiced Chickpeas)

Main Course

Sri Lankan Roasted Curry Spice Blend

Prawn Curry with Steamed Basmati Rice

Served with

Pol Sambol (Coconut Sambol)

Dessert

Watalappan (Coconut Custard)

We set the scene with elephant statues, the national animal of Sri Lanka (and which happens to be my spirit animal.)  Sri Lanka has numerous national parks and is famous for the amount of wild elephants that gather in groups in the parks.  The island is also well known for leopards, monkeys, peacocks, and a whole array of birds.  Sea life is also a draw, and it is said you can see the largest land mammal, the elephant and the largest marine mammal, the blue whale, in a single day.  Tea was  placed in the décor, as it is Sri Lanka’s biggest export.  Cinnamon and black pepper were added as well as a coconut.  A Buddha statue was staged to represent the largest religion and a photo of a water lily, the national flower, of Sri Lanka completed the scene.

We began with spiced up chickpeas, which would also be considered a short eat (or snack) in Sri Lanka.  They were spicy with flavors of mustard seeds, cumin and curry leaves and spicy hot from the red chilies.  We loved them.

For the main course, we enjoyed the spicy prawn curry with steamed Basmati rice and the amazing pol sambal.  The prawn curry was full of flavor and  spicy hot too.  We scooped up the curry and rice using our right hand.  They eat with only the right hand in Sri Lanka.

The curry and rice were served with the coconut sambol, a perfectly balanced condiment with which I have fallen completely in love.  On its own, it is perfectly balanced, with sweetness from the grated fresh coconut, sour from lime, spice from chilies and umami from shallots and maldive fish.  A heavenly dish indeed! 

For dessert, watalappan was served.  This is has a coconut custard flavor with a kitul jaggery, which comes from the fishtail palm and has a lovely caramel flavor.  It was topped with cashews.  We savored it with a hot cup of Ceylon black tea.

After dinner we sat down to read “The Legend of The Ramayana,” an epic tale of Rama, who traveled to the teardrop island to save his princess bride, Sita.  It is a purely magical story that is part of the culture, the history and souls of the Sri Lankan people.

Until next time,

Be safe and well,

Darlene

India gets her name from the Indus River, a major river that flows through China, Pakistan and India. The river’s name comes from Sanskrit (Sindhu) meaning “body of trembling water, river”. India is the largest part of the land mass that is South Asia. She is the seventh largest country in the world by size and second largest in population. India shares land borders with six countries, Pakistan to the northwest, China, Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan to the north and Bangladesh and Myanmar to the southwest. She is surrounded on the southeast and southwest by the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka and the Maldives lie just off the coast, to the south.

India is an ancient land with a history dating back thousands of years. In 2700 BCE, the first urban civilization in the world emerged in the Indus River valley. There were numerous states and kingdoms throughout the region over its long history, which is also the birthplace of the some of the world’s largest religions: Hinduism, Sikhism, Buddhism and Jainism. Today an overwhelming majority of the population is Hindu, which is the religion associated with the caste system in India (a rigid, social and occupational stratification system). Twelve percent of Indians are Muslim. This fact makes India one of the largest Islamic nations in the world because of the size of the population; over 1 billion people call India home. They also have the largest number of mosques in the world, with over 300,000. Every major religion in the world is represented in India.

Today, India is home to 29 states and seven union territories, each with their own extraordinary history, culture, language and uniqueness. There are 16 official languages of India, which include: Hindi, Urdu, Bengali and English (making India the largest English speaking country in the world). However, there are numerous other languages and dialects spoken there, totaling over 1500. The capital city of India is New Delhi but the most populated city is Mumbai, also known as “The City of Dreams” and formerly known as Bombay. The term “Bollywood,” gets its “B” from the previous name of the city coupled with the fact that they are the largest producer of films in the world. Mumbai is home to the wealthiest people in India, with many millionaires and even billionaires. However, many Indians live on as little as $2 a day and 35 percent of the population lives below the poverty line.

India gained her independence on August 15, 1947, after 200 years of British rule. India is the largest democracy in the world. The Indian, Independence Bill, which made independent nations of India and Pakistan, was hailed by Indian Independence leader, Mohandas Gandhi as the “noblest act of the British nation.” Unfortunately, after the bill took effect it began a period of religious turmoil between the Hindus and Muslims. That resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands, including Gandhi, who was assassinated by a Hindu fanatic in January of 1948 during a prayer vigil. More commonly known at Mahatma Gandhi, he is hailed as the Father of India. (Mahatma is an honorary title in the ancient Sanskrit language meaning “Great Soul”.) His birthday is celebrated every October 2nd and the day is also commemorated by the United Nations as the “International Day of Non-Violence”. Gandhi used non-violent civil disobedience as a method of evoking the people of India to rally for independence. His mission was to peacefully free India from British rule, to relieve poverty and to provide equality for women. His influence on humanity cannot be underestimated as he inspired similar movements around the world. His life and principles have inspired countless people all over the world with his message of peace, simplicity and devotion. He will forever be remembered for his many inspirational quotes and life lessons.

The world has a lot to thank India for as they are the inventors of many things that affect the lives of people every day. India gave the world yoga, developed over 5000 years ago. They invented the game of chess, the shirt button, the ruler, the decimal system was invented in 100 BC and the number zero. They also get the credit for the value of pi, trigonometry, algebra and calculus, to name a few.

The sheer size and scope of India is simply astounding. They have six seasons, which include the normal four, plus winter and summer monsoons. They have incredibly diverse topography which includes some of the tallest mountains in the world, the Himalayans, to arid desserts, forests, fertile plains and tropical seaside villages. Interestingly the whole of India is in the same time zone. They grow over 1.2 million tons of mangos annually as well as many legumes, like chickpeas and kidney beans and lentils of all types, which are often dried. They are also the largest producer of milk in the world. Cows are sacred in India and you will often times see them wandering the streets. Because India is such spiritual country, there is no shortage of festivals. There are festivals that celebrate good over evil, one where camels are dressed up and paraded, celebration for the harvest, kings’ birthdays, elephants ornately decorated and ridden thru the streets, etc. They are some of the most colorful festivals in the world. Weddings are multi day celebrations as well, with food, dancing and extravagant outfits. Even in modern India, most marriages are still arranged.

As we look into the cuisine of India, it is as diverse as the country itself. They have over 37 different cuisines along with hundreds of variations of those. The differences are often times simply, what is available locally due to the soil, climate and ethnic group. It is clear that religion and culture have a major impact on the choices. Hindu’s don’t eat beef and Muslim’s don’t eat pork. India has the largest number of vegetarians in the world. India is one of the few places in the world where you will find vegetarian meals at Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonalds and Pizza Hut. Indian cuisine is loved throughout the world and mostly known for its amazing use of spices called masala, which are used to make hundreds of curries. Some of the hallmark spices in Indian cuisine are chili pepper, black mustard seed, cardamom, cumin, turmeric, asafetida, ginger, coriander and garlic. The famous garam masala is a combination of at least five spices, ground together, which usually includes, cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Each region has a special garam masala blend to call their own. Indian food always uses spice but you can enjoy Indian food with or without the intensity of heat from peppers. Some Indian food is off the charts on the hot side but can be adjusted to suit your tastes. Rice, millet, bean pulses, potatoes and dahls, are all staple ingredients in Indian cuisine, along with delicious flat breads like naan, chapatti and roti.

To be honest, I had no idea how to tackle India from a cuisine standpoint. I decided to go with a vegetarian meal as an introduction to Indian cuisine. We enjoyed the meal with masala chai which means “spiced tea.” Chai is the national drink of India, and yes they are the largest producers of tea in the world as well.

So let’s eat Indian food:

The Menu
Starter
Bhindi Masala Dry Fry (Spicy Okra Dried Fry)

Main
Palak Paneer (Spinach Curry)

With Paneer (Cheese)

Served with
Aloo Gobi (Potatoes and Cauliflower Dry)

All served with
White Basmati Rice and Garlic Naan Bread
Dessert
Mango Lassi (Mango Smoothie)

We placed a mat on the floor, along with some cushions, as it is customary to sit on the floor to dine in India. We removed our shoes, washed our hands, feet and face and sat down cross legged. The decorations included lotus flower candle holders, as the lotus flower is a sacred symbol in India especially to Hindus and Buddhists and is their national flower. In fact, in New Delhi, there is the lotus temple, which is one of the most visited in the world. It is shaped like a lotus flower with 27 gigantic petals that are covered in marble. We also placed a peacock feather to symbolize their national bird, and a Bengal tiger, their national animal, which used to roam all over the country but today, its numbers are threatened. We, of course, used only our right hand to enjoy the meal, which is their custom. It is important to know you should never share food, as it is considered contaminated if you have touched your mouth and then your food. Only the finger tips are used and never lick your fingers. You will wash your hands at the end of the meal as well.

Our first course was the dried, okra fry and it was absolutely amazing. The complex spices in the dish and the fact that it was not at all gelatinous, was a real treat. These little morsels were very easy to eat with only the right hand and we didn’t have a one left over; a delicious way to begin our vegetarian meal.

Next, we enjoyed the very popular, palak paneer. This spicy, spinach curry was off the charts, outstanding. The grilled paneer cheese is very similar to a tofu that seems to just soak up the flavors of whatever it is cooked in. The grilled cheese melts in your mouth as the spicy, spinach curry enlivens your palate. This was enjoyed with basmati rice and naan bread.

As a side dish, we served aloo gobi, which was also cooked in the dry style, with amazing spices. The potatoes and cauliflower were a wonderful combination; tender and delicious.

For dessert, in honor of their national fruit, the mango, we savored a mango lassi. Basically, it is a creamy, mango smoothie but it also served to soothe the palate after the heat from our amazing, vegetarian meal.

We thought about how, if you wanted to be a vegetarian, Indian cuisine would be a wonderful way to indulge. We loved every single dish and were totally full and satisfied. We then decided to have a little chess match over a movie called “Slumdog Millionaire”. This movie gives an interesting perspective of India and has won numerous film awards.

India is a complex country, many have said that it can’t really be explained, it must be experienced. As my nephew Eliot described last week, India is indeed a land of many contrasts and full of intense sensory stimuli. I hope to someday breathe her in myself, but in the meantime, exploring the many diverse cuisines, is a good place to start.

As we say goodbye, I leave you with a few inspiring quotes from Gandhi:
“Be the change that you want to see in the world.”
“You must not lose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”
“Where there is love there is life.”
“An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.”

Until next time,
Namaste’
Darlene

The Maldivians call their country, “Dhivehi Raajje” meaning, “Kingdom of the Dhivehi people.” The capital and main island of the Maldives, is Male’.  In ancient times, it was called Mahal or Mahal Dvipa.  Male’ was always the most important island and where the king resided.  “Dives” means “islands”, so it is logical to conclude the name means, “The Islands of Male’.”  Another theory is derived from the Sanskrit work, “malavipa” meaning, “Garland of islands.”  This is a wonderful description of what makes up the country of the Maldives.  The Maldives are an archipelago of beautiful, white sandy, coral islands.  Palm trees sway in the breeze, along the turquoise blue, to jade green, crystal, clear waters of the Indian Ocean.  Most would simply call this, “Paradise.”

The Republic of the Maldives is more than 99 percent ocean.  It spans over 35,000 square miles, with only 115 square miles of land; making it the smallest country in Asia.  It has 26 natural atolls, 1192 islands, of which, only 200 or so are inhabited.  The Maldives Republic is also the lowest nation on earth in altitude, with an average elevation of only 6 feet.  The Maldives are located in Southern Asia, in the Indian Ocean, just south-southwest of India.  The islands have a rich, 3000 year old culture, as they have been a strategic location for seafarers for centuries.

It is believed the islands were first inhabited as early as 1500 BCE and then were settled in the fifth century BCE by Buddhist seafarers from India and Sri Lanka.  Contact with Arab travelers, over time, paved the way for the Maldives to adopt Islam as their religion.  Islam replaced Buddhism by 1153 CE when King Dovemi Kalaminja, officially accepted Islam.  The Maldives came under British protection in 1887 and they became fully independent on July 26, 1965.  The official language is Dhivehi, a pidgin language that is somewhat similar to the Sri Lankan language but with many nuances from assorted influences overtime.  It is the only country that speaks Dhivehi.  English is taught in schools and is the unofficial second language.

Today, Sunni Islam is the official religion.  Adherence is legally required for citizens by a revision of the constitution in 2008:  Article 9, Section D, states that “a non-Muslim may not become a citizen of the Maldives.”   It is the Sharia law that forms the basic code of law of the Maldives.  Most of the inhabited islands of the Maldives have several mosques.  They are beautiful, white washed buildings, many of them constructed of coral stone.  The gold-colored dome of the Mosque, known as the Islamic Center, is the first structure you will see when approaching the main Island of Male’.  Coral reefs are now protected worldwide, so coral is no longer used as a construction material.  Many of these old coral structures are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

The beaches of the Maldives are mostly coralline and strangely, it is the parrot fish that gets the credit for most of that exquisite, fine, soft, white sand.  It is estimated that one parrot fish can produce about one ton of sand per year.  Yes, parrot poop, or what we know as their beautiful sand, is the result of undigested corals they eat.  Of course, there are other factors that make up sand as well, but only about five percent of the worlds’ beaches are coralline; most are made of quartz.

Fishing is a loved pastime and occupation in the Maldives. The area is teeming with all types of fish.  Fishing is the second largest industry in the Maldives, after tourism and employs about 20 percent of the population.  All fishing is done using fishing lines, as the use of nets is illegal.  The fishing fleet consists of one of the Maldivians most famous symbols, the Dhoni.  This is a small, flat bottomed, boat, perhaps inspired by the ancient, Arabian Dhow, famous for its curved bow.  Many dhonis have converted from sails to outboard motors, to increase the annual fish catch totals.  Tuna is one of their biggest exports.  Shipping is also another important industry for the Maldivians.

The Maldives are especially in jeopardy due to global warming and the rising ocean level.  In fact, the president in 2009, actually held an underwater cabinet meeting to bring world-wide attention to the problem.  The Maldives were also gravely affected by the massive tsunami that hit on December 26, 2004.  Eighty-two people died, fourteen of the islands became uninhabitable and another 79 islands were left without any safe drinking water.

Some islands of the Maldives, have spectacular resorts for tourism and do serve alcohol and allow bathing suits.  These two things are strictly forbidden on the other Islands.  The islands are world renowned for their beauty and tranquility and especially as honeymoon destinations.  The food served on the resort islands, catering to tourism, prepare about every type of cuisine imaginable.

The locals eat much differently and many of the food items are imported, as there is not much arable land on the islands.  The staples, of course, include fish and coconut, with most all the protein coming from the sea.  Coconuts are used in all its forms.  Coconut oil is used for cooking, coconut milk for curries and rice and grated coconut are components of most dishes. Coconut hulls, called copra, are a big export item.  Some vegetables are grown, such as pumpkins, sweet potatoes, corn and millet.  Breadfruit, mangoes, pineapples, sugarcane, limes, bananas, taro and chili peppers are also grown, mostly in homestead gardens.  Fresh water is a constant concern, as it is getting harder to come by.  Rice, which is a staple food in the Maldives is imported.  The main influences in the Maldivian cuisine come from its closest neighbors, India and Sri Lanka.  The Maldivians make a unique dish called Garudiya that is a clear fish broth, which has been included on the Maldivian table for generations.  Some consider it to be the national dish.  I wanted to make it for this journey, but was unable to find fresh tuna at the market.  In this dish, after the tuna-based garudiya is cooked and all the water has evaporated, it forms a thick brown paste called Rihaakura, which is also used often in Maldivian dishes.

So let’s enjoy a Maldivian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Biskeemiyaa (Egg  and Cabbage Egg Rolls)

 Main Course

Tharukaaree Riha (Vegetable Curry)

Served with

Mas Aluvi Roshi (Fish and Potato Flat Bread)

 Dessert

Gerikin Baakibaa (Sweetened Condensed Milk Cake)

We set the table with the colors of the Maldivian flag; green for peace and prosperity and red for the bloodshed of the past.  The flag also has a white crescent shape, symbolizing Islam.  The national flower is a pink rose and we decorated with coconut palm fronds and shells.  The Maldives in medieval times supplied cowry shells, which were used as units of currency for trade.  Cowry shells are still abundant there.  A whale figurine was also part of the setting, since it is the one place on earth where nearly ten to twelve species of whales can be found; this includes the mighty blue whale (so large that a small child could crawl through the aorta of its heart.)  We put on Bodu Beru music, also known as big drum music, as a reminder of the relationship with east Africa, centuries ago.  The music has a rhythmic beat, often perceived as transcendental.

Our first course was a egg and cabbage egg roll, that was deep fried.  It had a hint of hot, green chilies and we absolutely devoured them.  This is a street food, called biskeemiyaa, which is often made with smoked tuna, as well; a perfect starter for any occasion.

For the main course, we savored a delectable, vegetable curry.  Curries of all types are loved in the Maldives; they are most often, made with fish.  For our main course, we decided to go vegetarian, since there was fish in the flat bread.  Rice is always served, as well as roshi, an Indian flat bread.  We made a special flat bread that was stuffed with tuna and potato.  It was delicious!

For dessert, we enjoyed a simple cake, made from sweetened, condensed milk.  It was amazing and was not too sweet.  It  would be lovely with any type tropical fruit found on the islands.  We served ours with strawberries and just a sprinkling of powdered sugar.

As we say goodbye to the beautiful islands and atolls, which make up the Maldives, we do so with hope, that that they will not succumb to global warming.  We hope to turn this problem around and save the Maldives for generations to come.  Because, everyone should experience paradise, at least once.

Did you know that there is an English word, derived from the Dhivehi language?   The word is atoll, the word in Dhivehi is, atholhu.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

The East Timorese call their country Timor Lorosa’e which means, “Rising sun”. East Timor or Timor-Leste, as it is also known, is located on the island of Timor. The island is part of the Indonesian archipelago and lies between the South China Sea and the Indian Ocean about 400 miles northwest of Darwin Australia. East Timor is the first sovereign state of the 21st century. She shares the island with the country of Indonesia.

The first arrivals to the island were the Vedo-Australoid people, related to the Sri-Lankans, sometime between 40,000 and 20,000 B.C. The Melanasian people migrated to Timor around 3000 B.C., and remain the largest ethnic group there today (Malay and Pacific Islanders). In Ancient Timor, they exported beeswax, spices and the highly sought after; fragrant sandalwood. The island was colonized by the Portuguese from 1600 to 1975. In 1613 the Dutch took control of the western portion of the island and fought for control of the whole island, until 1860, when a treaty was signed separating the two countries. In 1949, the Dutch recognized the western portion of the island as Indonesia.

Just nine, short days after East Timor gained independence from Portugal, she was invaded by Indonesia, which began the next twenty five years of hell. It is estimated that 200,000 East Timorese lost their lives (nearly one-third of the entire population) due to war related starvation, disease and unspeakable massacres and atrocities. In 1999, the United Nation forces finally stepped in and allowed for an election. Eighty percent of the East Timorese people voted to secede from Indonesia and demanded their independence. They finally gained it May 20, 2002.

During those twenty five years, seventy percent of all infrastructure was wiped out. Ninety percent of the schools and healthcare facilities were demolished. Even the fishing villages and boats were destroyed and so was their ability to fish, which provided the main source of food for the East Timorese people. Today the forests make up only one percent of the territory, thanks to slash and burn agriculture and deforestation. Much of the vegetation was eradicated during the Indonesian invasion, from the use of poisonous chemicals like Agent Orange.

Needless to say, the East Timorese are still recovering from all this, albeit slowly. The country is now run as Parliamentary Republic and the “Head of State” is the president. East Timor is considered to be the poorest country in Asia. However, oil and gas recently discovered off shore, is the new hope of prosperity for this land and her people. Dili is the capital city and the main industries are printing and soap manufacturing. They grow coffee, rice, maize and cassava to export and they also export marble and their coveted, sandalwood.

East Timor has a tropical climate with two seasons; a wet season, from December to April and a dry season, from May to November. The land is a rugged terrain, with Mt. Ramelau being the highest peak, at nearly 10,000 feet. They also have plenty of challenges from Mother Nature such as floods, earthquakes, landslides and tsunamis. Timor is located in what is called a tectonic subduction zone, where tectonic plates slide under one another creating instability and massive earthquakes. Since 1900, 212 earthquakes with a magnitude of 7.0 or more have occurred in the region (most beneath the sea) and with them tsunamis, on average, one tsunami every 14 months.

The official languages are Tetum and Portuguese, however there are at least 12 local languages and many speak Bahasa Indonesia and some, English. Interestingly, their currency is the United States (US) dollar. They use US coins but also have the Portuguese minted centavos in the same denominations as US coins. As for religion, the majority of the people are Roman Catholic followed by Protestants, Muslims, Hindus and Buddhists. Their festivals and celebrations happen around Christmas and Easter and of course Independence Day.

As we look into the cuisine of East Timor, the influences are clear. The Portuguese introduced their cuisine, as they were part of the culture there for almost 400 years. For example, feijoada is very well-liked. (Remember the bean stew, with beef and pork, from our journey to Brazil?) Indonesian cuisine is also popular, with influences from India and China. They like their food spicy and of course, the local ingredients found on and around the island are used as the main stays of the cuisine. Interestingly, rice is popular, however corn is considered the staple.

So let’s eat East Timorese

The Menu
Appetizer

Bolado with Ai-manas
Hard-boiled eggs with chili paste

Main
Ikan Pepes (fish in curry sauce)

Served with
Rice & Batar Da’an (a pumpkin and corn dish)

Dessert
Rujak (fruit salad with cream and nuts)

We set the stage for our East Timorese meal with the colors of their flag; red, yellow, black and white. The color white, represents peace and the star is considered to be “the light that guides.” We placed a small bowl of water on the low table, as it would be customary to wash your hands with it before eating. The East Timorese either eat with only their right hand or with a spoon and fork. The spoon is held in the right hand and the fork is used to push the food onto the spoon.

We began with an appetizer, which is a common street food found all over East Timor and usually sold by kids. It is a deep fried, hard-boiled egg which sells for 25 cents. The egg is served with a very spicy, chili paste. We never had a fried, hard-boiled egg before and the result was a nice, crispy touch to the outside of the egg. No batter was necessary, it does it all on its own. We loved them.

The remainder of the meal was served family style. The whole, red snapper was seasoned with a curry made of spices and tamarind. The fish was first steamed in a banana leaf and then grilled. It was tender and perfect, served with rice, lemon wedges and another popular dish called, batar da’an. It consisted of corn, mung beans and pumpkin. This is a wonderful vegetarian dish that could easily be a main course all by itself.

For dessert, we delighted in fresh fruit, served with cream and nuts. Drinks are not normally served before or during the main meal. However, we enjoyed a strong coffee with our dessert. When being offered a drink in East Timor, it should be received with both hands. All food that is offered should be accepted as a gift and when you are finished you should leave a small amount of food on the plate, except that all the rice should be eaten. Then, place your fork and spoon face down on the plate, with the spoon crossed over the top of the fork.

Ancient legend says that Timor was created after an aging crocodile transformed itself into the island to compensate a boy that helped it when it was ailing. The boy’s descendants are believed to be the natives of Timor. Poetry is an integral part of tradition on the island to tell such stories. Here are a couple of poems I found enjoyable:

“Grandfather Crocodile” written by the President Poet, Xanana Gusmao
From the depths of the ocean
a crocodile in search of a destiny
spied the pool of light, and there he surfaced
Then wearily, he stretched himself out
in time
and his lumpy hide was transformed
into a mountain range
where people were born
and where people died
Grandfather crocodile
- the legend says
and who am I to disbelieve
that he is Timor!

And another one, by AVCAT
"I Have a Country..."
“I have a country, it is an island
But no one knows it is an island,
because no one knows I have a country
It is not in the Caribeans, where the sun dances
Atlantic waves its seas, breezes on happy faces
But my island is pacific, near the Indic
No one knows where it is, because no one knows.
Where it is.
I have a country! it is Pacific
But no one knows it is Pacific,
because no one knows I have a country
It is not Indic, where great men once sailed
in search of a route, to the orient
But my island is Pacific, not the Orient.
No one knows where it is, because no one knows.
Where it is.
I have a country! it is mountainous
But no one knows it is mountainous,
because no one knows I have a country
The mountain ranges, peak to peak.
Yet not so great, like the Himalayas,
where one marvels, and be inspired.
My mountains are just plain mountains.
When you look, you look at mountains because they are mountains....

I have a country, it is Timor Loro Sa'e
But no one knows it is Timor Loro Sa'e,
because no one knows where it is.
Do you know where it is?”

As we say goodbye, I am happy to say, yes, we now know of this country, East Timor!

Warmest regards,
Darlene