Search Results for: somalia

How did Somalia get its Name?

Ancient Egyptians called it the “Land of Punt.” Punt is also mentioned in the Bible, and ancient Romans called it, “Cape Aromatica.”  They valued its trees, which produced the aromatic gum resins, frankincense and myrrh.  Somali is an ethnic group so, it is believed Somalia means, “Land of the Somali.”  It is the most homogenous country in all of Africa, with Somali making up 85 percent of the population.  Bantu and other non-Somali make up the balance.  The official name is the “Federal Republic of Somalia” and the people there call it “Soomaaliya.”

Where is Somalia Located?

Somalia is the eastern most country of Africa; located on the strategic Horn of Africa.  It is bordered by Ethiopia to the west, Djibouti to the northwest, the Gulf of Aden to the north, the Somali Sea and the Indian Ocean to the east, and it also borders Kenya to the southwest.  It occupies a strategic geopolitical position between the countries of Arabia and southwestern Asia.  Its capital city is Mogadishu, located just north of the equator on the Indian Ocean.  It has the largest coastline of any African country.

A Brief History of Somalia

The origin of the Somali people is not certain but it’s believed that they originated in the southern Ethiopian highlands and migrated into northern Kenya during the first millennium, BC.  Later they migrated onto the horn or peninsula.

Due to its strategic location, influences from both Africa and Arabia are present.  There were multiple Somali empires during the middle ages that had a large impact on trade.  Some of these empires included: the Sultanate of Adal, the Warsangali Sultanate and the Gobroon Dynasty. 

Arabs introduced Islam to Africa beginning in the seventh century and by the tenth century, Arab trading posts thrived in southern Somalia, along the Indian Ocean.  Most Somalis converted to Islam by about 1100 AD.  They fought multiple wars against the Ethiopian Christians and became the dominant people in the land.  Their capital, Mogadishu, was at its height of influence and wealth during the 13^th century, when it controlled the gold trade along the East African coast.

In the 1800s the British and Italians arrived and established British Somaliland and Italian Somaliland.  The Dervishes fought off the British from the interior for years under the leadership of Muhammad Abdullah Hassan, until they were eventually defeated in 1920.  The Italians controlled most of the area until after World War II, when the British took it over completely.  In 1960, Somalia gained full independence from Britain.

Unfortunately, in 1991 civil war broke out.  Since that time, the country has been in anarchy with no real central government.  It is also home to the jihadist terror group known as Al-Shabaab.  As a result, it is one of the most violent and one of the poorest countries in the world.  They have suffered mass casualties from war, disease and famine and many Somalis live as refugees in their own country or in neighboring ones.  In the north there is an autonomous region known as Somaliland but it is not recognized as such by the international community.

Somalia Culture

The population of Somalia is a guesstimate of about 14 million.  The official language is Somali however, it did not become a written language until 1973.  Arabic is also an official language and is spoken and read for religious reasons.  A small percentage of Somalis speak Italian and a growing number speak English.  The official religion is Sunni Islam; traditionally Somalis practice a moderate form of Islam, influenced by Sufism.  However, the Salafi movement, a reform branch, has gained more political influence in recent decades.

About 3/5^th of the population are nomadic herders, the others are city dwellers.  The Nomads spend nearly all their time outdoors. The traditional shelter of the herders is called the aqal, which is a dome shaped, collapsible hut, made from poles and covered with hides or woven, fiber mats.  It is easy to take down and reassemble and is the responsibility of the women of the family.  It is carried by camel.  Typically only a bed is inside the aqal, made from wooden stakes and covered with hides.  They have few possessions and just enough household items for cooking.  Many nomadic camps are surrounded by a fence made from thorn bushes to keep out predators.  Animals are kept in corrals, also made from thorn bushes.  They typically will make camp near a shade tree which is used as a gathering place and class room.

Clan groupings of the Somali people are important social units.  Clan membership plays a central role in Somali culture and politics.  They are patrilineal and are divided into sub clans, resulting in extended families.  Unfortunately clan rivalries are one of the problems they face in establishing a central government for the nation.  Somalis have a very high fertility rate, an average of six children born per woman.  However, they have a very low life expectancy, with only 51 years for a man and 55 years for a woman.

Somali Cuisine

Somali cuisine is varied with different local foods in every region of the country.  Its main influences come from East Africa, Arabia, Turkey, India and Italy.  

The camel was first domesticated in Somalia and there are more camels in Somalia than any other country in the world.  Camel milk is to Somalia what cow’s milk is to the west.  They even have a common phrase which is uttered to guests, “soo maal” which means, “go milk” (the camel.)  Camel meat is also consumed however, goat is much more popular.

Goat meat is often cubed and seasoned with a spice blend called xawash, similar to Ethiopia’s berbere.  They make the cubed meat into what is called suqaar, a common dish like a stew which is often eaten with rice or anjero, a flat bread, similar to Ethiopia’s injera.  Spiced rice called bariis iskukaris, which is similar to a pilau, is beloved.  Sambusas, little fried pastries stuffed with meat or vegetables, are a go to snack.  Generally speaking, the cuisine of Somalia has many spices with cardamom being extremely prevalent.  They like to buy cardamom in pods and grind it, just before use.  Cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, coriander, ginger and fenugreek are all common spices.  Somalis also like their food spicy hot, from chilies.  However, they like to put it on the side, so they can add heat to their liking.

So let’s enjoy a Somali Meal:

The Menu

The Meal

Muufo (Somalia Bread)

Main Course

Baasta Iyo Suugo (Somali Pasta)

Made with Xawaash (Somali Spice Blend)

Served with

Somali Salad with Bizbaz (Jalapeno Dressing)

Dessert

Kac Kac (Somali Doughnut)

We set the scene with a leopard print cloth to represent the national animal of Somalia.  A white star, which is prominent on the flag of Somalia, was placed along with a photo of a camel.  A banana was added because they eat them with almost everything, and we included their national flower, the King Protea.  We used incense with the fragrance of frankincense.  The meal was served all together, which is customary there, except for the dessert.

The pasta dish was made with small cubes of beef and seasoned with their famous xawaash spice blend, which was excellent.  Somalis eat bananas with all sorts of things and this Somali Pasta was served with a banana on the plate.  I was skeptical at first but oh my goodness, it was delicious.  It provided a wonderful sweetness to the dish which perfectly balanced the flavors.  We also loved the thick bread called muufo which was made with fine semolina and flavored with fenugreek.  It was perfect to soak up the spicy sauce. 

A basic salad of lettuce, tomato and onion was served as well but the jalapeño dressing called Bizbaz was out of this world.  I have made the spicy, creamy dressing many times since I cooked this dish and it goes great as a dip for grilled meats or as it was intended, as a salad dressing. 

For dessert, we enjoyed kac kac, a delicious fried dough, gently flavored with a hint of cardamom.   We had them with a cup of Somali tea, known as shaah bigays; a simple black tea that is served after heavy meals.

Afterwards, we sat down to watch a film called, Black Hawk Down, a war film about the true story of the U.S. military’s 1993 raid in Mogadishu.

I pray the people of Somalia will find their way to rid the country of radical ideology and  can finally live in peace.

“Rajada ugu fiican!” which means, “Best Wishes!”

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

The name Kenya likely comes from the Kikuyu tribe who lived at the foot of the mountain called Kirinyaga, which means, “Place of Brightness.” It is believed that the British who colonized the area in the mid-19th century, mispronounced the name and called the mountain “Mount Kenya” and the entire territory “Kenya” as well. Although Kenya is located on the equator, Mount Kenya has permanent glaciers on it and is the second highest peak in all of Africa.

Kenya is located in East Africa with 333 miles of coastline on the Indian Ocean to the east. Her neighbors are Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania. Sometimes referred to as “The Cradle of Humanity”, the country is part of the Great Rift Valley. Paleontologists have discovered some of the earliest evidence of man’s ancestors, dating back to 3.3 million BC.
The Portuguese arrived in 1498 and the port of Mombasa became an important resupply stop on route to the Middle East. The Portuguese gave way to Islamic control under the Imam of Oman, in the 1600s. That lasted until another European influence came along, the British, who founded the East African Protectorate (now known as Kenya) in 1895. It became a British colony in 1920. During this period, thousands of Indians were brought into Kenya to work on building the Kenya/Uganda railway line and subsequently settled there. After numerous uprisings, thousands of Kenyans were incarcerated in detention camps. Kenya finally became independent on December 12, 1963.

Today, Kenya is multifaceted with over 40 different ethnic groups. The largest group is the Kikuyu, who migrated to the region at the beginning of the 18th century. Each ethnic group has their own indigenous language and culture. About 13 percent of the population is of non-African descent. The official languages of Kenya are Swahili and English. They bridge the communication gap and unite Kenya as a single nation. The constitution of Kenya guarantees freedom of religion and worship to its people. The vast majority of Kenyans are Christians. Islam is another major religion. Followers include both Sunni and Shi’ite Muslims and are mostly found in Mombasa and the neighboring coastal regions. The small, Indian population mostly adheres to Hinduism and Sikhism. Their indigenous beliefs of traditional African religions are combined with various aspects of Christianity.

Almost all ethnic tribes have their own variety of music and dance. Traditional African beats are usually backed by drums and guitar like instruments. Contemporary music, including lingala and benga rhythms, as well as taarab music, were inspired by Arab and Indian immigrants. Another fascinating aspect of Kenyan culture is the art and artifacts crafted manually by the different tribes. Beautifully carved wood sculptures are produced locally and sold throughout the world, as well as hand-woven baskets made of sisal, Maasai beaded jewelry, musical instruments, tribal masks, paintings, prints, batik cloth, colorful kangas (African cloth) and the beautiful Kikoys (African sarongs).

Kenya is one of Africa’s most developed economies. It has gradually emerged from political instability and government corruption, although it still struggles. Terrorism has been a big problem in recent years. In 1998 Al-Qaida operatives bombed the US embassy in the capital city of Nairobi, killing 224 and injuring thousands. In 2011, Somali militants raided Kenyan coastal resorts, targeting the foreigners staying there. Most recently, in April of 2015, Al-Shabab militants massacred 148 students at Garissa College, horrifying Kenya and the rest of the world. This was just two years after 67 were killed and 175 wounded when gunmen attacked the most upscale mall in Nairobi. Yet even after these tragedies, Kenya remains a very popular tourist destination.

By far the main tourist attractions are the safaris through the 19 national parks and game reserves. Safari used to mean a hunt but thankfully today, the rifles have been mostly replaced with cameras. It is one of the few places you can still find the “Big 5” deadliest mammals: the lion, Cape buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant (which sadly have both been heavily poached there, even in the national parks.) Animals are literally everywhere, with herds of zebras, giraffes, hippos, dozens of species of antelopes, monkeys, wildebeest, (where 1.4 million migrate each year from Tanzania to Kenya and back again), hyenas, cheetahs, wart hogs and so many more. The show is up close and personal as you see lions, devouring their kill, elephants charging and leopards dragging their prey up a tree. It is raw nature at its finest. Bird watching is another huge tourist attraction, with over 1000 species found there including seas of pink flamingos, egrets, guinea hens, giant raptor kites and vultures that clean up on a kill once the lions are satisfied. Then there is a whole other arena with beautiful coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, offering some of the best diving opportunities in the world.

Another attraction is the Maasai Mara National Reserve where the Maasai villages can be found. The Masai people live in southern Kenya, along the Great Rift Valley. They are a semi-nomadic tribe whose subsistence economy relies on cattle, goats and sheep. A Maasai prayer “Meishoo iyiook enkai inkishu o-nkera” translated to English means “May the creator give us cattle and children.” Cattle and children are the most important treasures of the Maasai people. The Maasai live in villages, called Kraals, which are arranged in a circular fashion. Every person in the Maasai community has a role to play. The fence is made of acacia thorns to prevent lions from attacking their cattle. The houses, or Bomba, are built by the women and made of timber poles and then plastered with a mix of mud, sticks, grass, cow dung and urine. Nearly all the needs for food are met by the cattle they raise. They eat the meat (although they prefer to amass large herds), so they also have a tradition that collects blood from a nicked jugular on the cow’s neck, which they then mix with the cow’s milk and drink. This allows the cow to stay alive and provides a rich protein source in their diet. Recently with drought and climate change causing their herds to diminish, the Maasai have grown dependent on other foods such as sorghum, rice, potatoes and cabbage. Bright red is the traditional color of the Maasai and the shield on the Kenyan flag is in fact, the shield of the Maasai warriors. The Maasai welcome guests into their community to see their most interesting culture and traditions.

As we look into the cuisine of Kenya, maize, potatoes and beans are the staple crops. Ugali is a porridge made of maize, similar to fufu made of cassava. It is served at almost every meal along with stews. Meat, mostly goat, beef, mutton and chicken are eaten. Fish from the Indian Ocean and from Lake Victoria are enjoyed by those who live nearby. In the capital city of Nairobi, International faire is found. The Indians who were brought over to help build the railroad have had a very strong impact on the cuisine. Chapati is an Indian flat bread that is ubiquitous there. Nyama Choma is grilled meat and considered the national dish (served with Ugali.) Kenyans are big exporters of coffee and tea (chai) and Kenyans themselves consume a lot of tea, which is served with milk and sugar. Afternoon tea time is coveted there and is clearly an influence from the British. Kenya has had challenges with poverty and hunger. Drought at times, has been severe. They even have a dish called Sukuma wiki that literally translated means, “stretch the week.” Any leftover meat can be combined with greens to make another meal.

So let’s enjoy a Kenyan Chakula (meal):

The Menu
Starter
Bajias (Battered Potatoes with Seasoning)

Served with Madras (Mango Chutney)

Main
Nyama Choma (Grilled meat)

Served with
Sukuma Wiki (Greens Simmered with Tomatoes)

Irio (Potatoes, Peas and Corn Mash)

Dessert
Biskuti Ya Nazi (Coconut Macaroons)

We decorated the table with  animal print and animals that would be found on a safari. Corn and coffee were arranged as they are important agricultural items to the Kenyans.  We also decorated with orchids, the national flower of Kenya. We put benga music on the stereo, with its infectious guitar and drum beats to set the Kenyan mood.

We began our meal by saying “Chakula Chema” which means, “Bon appetite” in Swahili. Our first course was a street food called bajias, which clearly shows the Indian influence. Heavily seasoned and battered potatoes are fried and then dipped in a delicious mango chutney, called madras. The chutney has a nice kick to it, due to the hot peppers, a real delight to enjoy with a good Kenyan beer. “Maisha marefu” means “Cheers” and Kenyans are the largest consumers of beer in all of Africa.

Next, was the main course, Nyama Choma, which in Swahili means, roast meat. It is always eaten with your hands and goat meat is most often used, but beef ribs are also very popular. The preparation is simple; just a mist of salt water while cooking slowly over the flame. The result is awesome. Sometimes I find, it is the simple things in cooking that are the best and Nyama Choma is a perfect example. This dish represents the fun loving spirit of the Kenyan people. Whenever there is Nyama Choma, people gather for delicious food, music and a good, festive time.

The meat was served on a cutting board, which is customary there. Alongside it we had another very popular dish, called Irio (pronounced eer-e-o.) This dish is basically mashed potatoes with peas and corn added. The result is a lovely side dish for nearly any occasion.

We also enjoyed the greens dish, called Sukuma wiki. We didn’t add the meat to ours, but we did use left overs for lunch the next day to “stretch the week.” The dish is made of greens, kale or collard greens, both of which I happen to have in abundance in our International Cuisine garden. Onions are sautéed with tomatoes and then the greens are added. This is another keeper of a side dish; simple to make, healthful and yummy!

For dessert, fruit is often served as an end to a Kenyan meal. However, we instead had coconut macaroons; a sweet treat to finish our Kenyan feast and savor with our chai. We concluded our evening by watching the movie “Out of Africa,” starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford (a couple of our favorite actors). The movie was filmed in Kenya.

As we say goodbye to this African nation, we simply say “Asante” (thank you) in Swahili.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Eritrea and Ethiopia have an intertwined history, unfortunately not a peaceful one. They are neighbors in the horn of Africa. Eritrea was named by the Italians who colonized that area in 1890. The name was originally derived from the Greeks. It is what they called the body of water known as the Red Sea. Eritrea has about 620 miles of coastline along the Red Sea, Sudan lies to the north and northwest, Djibouti to the southwest and Ethiopia to the south. Eritrea was part of Ethiopia until it was sold to the Italians in the late 19th century. It remained an Italian colony until the British took control in 1941. In 1952, the United Nations federated Eritrea with Ethiopia, which was completely against the will of the Eritrean people. It took a 30 year, liberation war before the Ethiopians left Eritrean soil. Although Eritrea gained independence in 1993, it has been a constant battle over territories along the border with Ethiopia.

Eritrea has had the same president, Isaias Afewerki, since her independence. Since then, there has never been an election, nor has the constitution been implemented. Eritrea has been run as a single-party, presidential republic. Basically the president is both head of state and head of government. The government uses its citizens to work mines, public work projects, and the ruling party’s commercial and agricultural enterprises. This country is referred to as the “North Korea of Africa” because of the human rights violations including the militarization of society and no freedom of speech, press or religion. People are risking their lives every day to flee the country. Some make it to neighboring refugee camps, some go across the Mediterranean to Europe and many just die trying. The government implemented a mandatory conscription for able bodied adults between the ages of 18-55, for an “undetermined period of time.” They are forced into hard labor in extreme conditions and for next to no pay. It appears no one really knows what is going on there, other than what is learned from the refugee accounts. The country does not allow international humanitarian and human rights organizations any access, nor is there any independent media. The government claims that it is working toward a path of self-reliance so that it does not have to depend on anyone else, especially the west, for trade, food or other services.

The population of Eritrea consists of nine ethnic groups, the largest being the Tigrinya. The capital, Asmara, is located in the highland plateau. The Christian Orthodox, highland culture is shared between Eritrea and Ethiopia. Historically, in Eritrea there was a division between the highland Christians and the Muslims in the lowland but war has bridged that gap. The two official languages of Eritrea are Tigrinya and Arabic, although many Eritreans also speak Amharic, which is Ethiopia’s official language. English is taught as a second language from the second grade on up in their schools. More than 75 percent of the population there live rurally, in small villages and rely on subsistence farming. The country actually has many resources; gold, potash, zinc, copper, salt, oil and natural gas and fish. But war has taken its cruel toll on the infrastructure, land and the people.

Ethiopia is a large, landlocked country and makes up most of what is known as the horn of Africa. The country has made arrangements with neighboring Djibouti for its trade, instead of Eritrea, because of their war torn history. Ethiopia also got her name from the Greeks. The name Ethiopia, means “burnt faces.” Ethiopia’s other neighbors are Somalia to the east, Kenya to the south and Sudan to the west and southwest

Ethiopia is the only country in Africa that was not colonized. They managed to win the fight against the Italians in 1896, which preserved the country’s independence. The Italians however, briefly occupied Ethiopia from 1936-1941.

The capital city of Ethiopia is Addis Ababa, which means “new flower” in Amharic. Located at an altitude of 7726 feet, it is the third highest capital in the world. Seventy percent of Africa’s mountains are located in Ethiopia and yes, they even get snow. Lake Tana is the source of inflow to the Blue Nile that meets with the White Nile in Sudan, to become the Great Nile, flowing all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. Lake Tana supplies 85 percent of the water to the Great Nile.

Ethiopia has vast agricultural potential due to its fertile land, diverse climate and normally, adequate rainfall. The land does suffer from periodic droughts and its poor infrastructure, especially in the highlands with unpaved roads, makes it difficult to move products. The number one export crop is coffee and it is believed that it originated there. Both Ethiopia and Eritrea have a coffee ceremony, a common ritual. It lasts for at least an hour, with at least three servings. It would be considered rude to leave early or not accept a serving. The server starts a fire and roasts green coffee beans while burning frankincense. The server may walk the roasting beans around and fan them so everyone can enjoy the aroma. Once roasted, the beans are ground with a mortar and pestle, and then placed in the pot, called a jebena. Water is added and the jebena is removed from the fire. The coffee is then ready for serving after a brief brewing period.

Ethiopia was ruled by a monarchy, known as the Solomonic Dynasty, with close ties to the Orthodox Church, for nearly 1600 years. In 1974, the monarch was overthrown by a communist military regime called “the Derge.” In 1991, the Derge was forced out and today the government is run as a federal parliamentary republic. They have nine ethnically based administrative regions. There are, however, over eighty different ethnic groups that call Ethiopia home, with just as many indigenous languages. The Oromo, Amhara and Tigreans make up over 75 percent of the population.

Ethiopia, Eritrea and Djibouti are home to the area where “Lucy” was found. This area was home to some of the earliest hominid populations and Lucy’s skeletal remains provided a missing link in human evolution. Truly the cradle of civilization, there is an extensive history to be learned from these areas. The national epic, “The Glory of Kings,” was compiled by six, Tigrean scribes, who claimed to have translated the text from Arabic to Ge’ez. The story is found in I Kings of the Holy Bible. The Ethiopian version is the premise for the monarchy and significant to nearly all religions.

Over thirty years ago Ethiopia’s famine was world news. I vividly remember the pictures of starving, emaciated children with bloated stomachs and mothers trying to keep flies off their babies but with no energy left to shoo them away. It was tragic time, beyond comprehension and millions died horrible deaths. Today Ethiopia is on the mend with a 10 percent growth rate. The numbers of people in poverty are declining and the government is hoping to bring their country into a “middle-income” state by 2025.

You may be wondering why I combined these two countries. I did so because they enjoy the same food, they may call it something different but they use the same spices, same spiced butter, and Injera, that spongy bread made from teff. I also recently saw a program called “Breaking Borders.” A news correspondent and a chef go to areas of conflict to get people from opposing sides to sit down for a meal and discuss how peace can be obtained. I do believe a dinner table is a beautiful way to start a dialog and I love the concept. This is also the basis for our Journeys on International Cuisine; bringing the world together one country at a time.

So let’s eat Eritrean and Ethiopian Cuisine:

The Menu
Berbere (Spicy seasoning used in the cuisine)

Niter Kibbeh (Spiced clarified butter)

Injera (Spongy bread)

Doro Wat (Chicken Stew; the national dish of Ethiopia)

Mesir Wat (Lentil stew)

Zigni (Beef Stew; the national dish of Eritrea)

Ayib (Cheese)

Timatim (Tomato salad)

Habesha Gomen (Greens)

Dessert
Coffee & Popcorn

We decorated simply with the national flowers for Eritrea (Gerbera daisies) and Ethiopia (Calla lilies.) The meal was served on a giant communal tray lined with Injera bread with all the dishes served right on top of the bread. We placed the tray on a low table and sat on the floor as would be customary there. We would begin with hand-washing. The food is eaten with the right hand, you are not supposed to touch your lips with your fingers, just the food, and never lick your fingers. I began with gursha, a gesture I made to my husband to offer him food to put in his mouth. This is very common in both Ethiopia and Eritrea and is a sign of respect. The larger the piece offered, the more the person respects you. The Injera (bread) is used as the utensil. You use it to scoop up the food on the tray. It’s messy, there is no way around it, but it’s kinda fun. The bread is delicious; it has a sour taste, soft and spongy texture and perfect with the spicy “wat” stew. The bread is made from teff, a tiny grain that means “lost.” It is the smallest known grain and it is called lost because if you drop it, it would be lost. For a tiny grain, it is a powerhouse of nutrition and also gluten free.

The dishes are made with a very spicy mixture called, berbere. If you make it yourself, you can control the heat, but we are talking exceptionally spicy. The ayib (a basic curd cheese) and the timatim (a tomato salad) are served along with the stews to help minimize the heat from the berbere seasoning. The greens were sautéed in the amazing nitter kibbeh (a spiced clarified butter) that I found myself wanting to put on everything, (like the popcorn we had along with the coffee for dessert.) The butter is very addictive!

All the wat or stew dishes have a base made from lots and lots of onions. The secret to the outstanding taste in these stews or wats is the sweet, caramelization process that occurs as the onions cook. The doro wat is probably the most well-known African dish and for good reason. It is outstanding, you really need to try it.

The Zigni dish, which is considered the national dish of Eritrea, is often times served with spaghetti. This is of course, the Italian influence, and is served that way in Ethiopia as well. We had it just with the Injera and enjoyed the tomato based, spicy, beef stew. (We had the leftovers with pasta). The vegetarian lentil stew was also amazing. Bottom line, we loved this spicy, rich, earthy food.

We ended the meal with the some coffee and yes, popcorn smothered in that “oh my gosh,” clarified butter.

As we say goodbye to Eritrea and Ethiopia, we do so with hope that these neighbors will learn to live in peace and that the government of Eritrea will realize that something is seriously wrong when your people are fleeing in droves. Perhaps a few natives from each country will use this week’s Journey to share a meal and start the dialogue toward reconciliation.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Djibouti pronounced (Ji-boot-ee) is the third smallest country on the African continent behind Gambia and Swaziland. She is located on the east coast of the Horn of Africa. Her neighbors are Eritrea to the north, Somalia to the south, Ethiopia to the west and Yemen is located across the strait of Bab el Mandeb, just to the east. The strait is known as the “Gate of Tears” due to the tricky navigational skills required to get across it. This strategic location separates the Red Sea from the Gulf of Aden and is an important trans-shipment location for goods entering and exiting the east African highlands.

Djibouti was formerly known as French Somaliland from 1896 until 1967, when it then became the French territory of the Afars and Issas, from 1967-1977. These two ethnic groups make up the majority of the population of Djibouti today. She became independent from France on June 27, 1977 which is celebrated each year as National Day. The official languages are French and Arabic, although Afar and Somali are more commonly spoken.

The climate is very dry with prolonged spells of scorching heat. They mainly have just two seasons, hot and hotter. May to September is the hottest season with daytime temperatures between 100 and 120 degrees F. Due to the weather and lack of precipitation, (receiving only a meager 5 inches per year), they really don’t grow much, so they always have a large trade deficit. They import nearly all of their food other than live animals. Even though the country sits of the strait, Djiboutians are not known as a seafaring people, but rather are descendants from nomadic and pastoral traditions. Goat and camel herds are prevalent in the interior of the country.

Due to Djibouti’s proximity to the Arabian Peninsula, it is believed that the region’s Somali and Afar tribes became the first Africans to adopt Islam. The country is an Islamic state and 94 percent are Muslim. The other six percent are Christians. Djiboutians are known to be tolerant toward other religions and social customs.

The capital city, Djibouti, bears the same name as the country itself and is where the majority of the population lives. The city was built on coral reefs and has views of the sea from much of the city. Djibouti does have a few islands off the coast which are known for their excellent diving and snorkeling areas.

The region is also known for its unique environment for studying volcanic, geothermal and earthquake activity. It sits over a zone where three tectonic plates converge. The area is very seismically active, with nearly 600 tremors per year. However, only a small percentage, if any, are felt.

Djibouti is also home to the lowest depression in Africa and the third lowest in the world. Lake Assal sits at 512 feet below sea level. The lake is ten times saltier than the ocean and is said to be an ethereal blue surrounded by picturesque volcanic hills. The salt has been mined for trading and export. A bit farther into the countryside lies another lake on the border with Ethiopia. Lake Abbe is in the center of the Afar Depression and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is the location where the hominid skeleton named Lucy was found, even though Ethiopia gets credit for the land from which she was unearthed. This was a major discovery in the science of human origin. The skeleton has been dated back to 3.5 million years ago.

Since the terrorist attack that occurred in the United States on September 11, 2001, Djibouti has allowed the United States to maintain a military base there as part of the War on Terror campaign. The United States pays the government $38 million per year to utilize the base for drone operations. The French also maintain a base there, which was part of the agreement for Djibouti’s independence.

Djibouti is an important link and trade hub especially for landlocked Ethiopia. Aside from the international port facilities, another important source of revenue is the Addis-Ababa Railway. The railway was recently upgraded and is jointly owned by Ethiopia and Djibouti. This railway system is what delivers the daily supply of the mild stimulant called khat (or qat). Although many countries have banned khat as an illegal drug, Djibouti’s government continues to support the trade. The khat trade employs a tenth of the population and contributes a windfall to the government in taxes. Nearly all the men in Djibouti chew khat on a daily basis and it is considered an important part of the culture there. It creates a slight euphoria, suppresses appetite and increases concentration. Despite all this their unemployment rate is over fifty percent, which is often times blamed on this widespread khat use.

Djiboutians love soccer and also a game called Pétanque, which is somewhat similar to bocce ball. At night you will find them playing under the street lights, all over the city. Running is also a popular trend and some great marathoners have come from the region.

The cuisine of Djibouti is influenced by her neighbors and of course France. Middle Eastern spices ranging from saffron to cinnamon are commonly used and they like their dishes spicy. Djiboutians often eat three meals a day with the midday meal, called qado, being the largest. Schools and work places are often closed for a couple of hours in the afternoon when the sun is the most intense. Stews with meats from camel, goat and sheep are served with a flat spongy-like bread, called canjeero. Rice, lentils and pastas are also common dishes, served with a hot berbere sauce or a buttery one, called niter kibbeh.

The main celebrations are centered on religious holidays of the Muslim faith. Often whole animals are slaughtered for these special occasions. The feasts are typically “halal”, basically meaning that pork is forbidden and animals must be slaughtered by a Muslim in a certain way, while giving thanks to Allah.

So let’s eat Djibouti cuisine:

The Menu
Appetizer
Samosas with African Sauce (Meat and Onions in Pastry)

Main
Fah-Fah (Goat Soup/Stew)

Served with Canjeero (Flat Bread)

Dessert
Djibouti Banana Fritter

We decorated our mat with the colors of the flag: blue, green, red and white, along with the coat of arms, which represents the two major ethnic groups of Djibouti. We also had candles decorated with camels and a wooden carved antelope to represent the one forest they have remaining in the country. For our Djibouti meal we sat on a mat on the floor, which would be customary there. We began with a hand washing ritual, as we would be eating with our right hand, which is the tradition but taking care not to rinse off my temporary, henna tattoo, (extremely popular in Djibouti.)

The first course was our appetizer, called samosa. This is typically a street food and many other countries have a similar version. Our little fried pastries were made with meat and onions and dipped in a pepper sauce. They were superb.

Next was the main course called fah-fah. I was actually given a piece of goat meat as a gift from one of my neighbors to use for this occasion. The spicy stew was fantastic and if you have never had the opportunity to try goat, you should (assuming you are not a vegetarian.) It really is a delicious meat. I have another story about the best taco I ever ate that happened to be goat, but I will save that one for another time. The stew was served with canjeero, a very interesting flat bread that has a unique, spongy texture. It works well to sop up that scrumptious stew sauce but would actually be just as lovely with a little butter, honey or jam. It was yummy!

For dessert we enjoyed some banana fritters. Perhaps it seems I have been using a lot of bananas lately but hey, I love them and they did not disappoint; served warm and dusted with a bit of powdered sugar.

As we say goodbye to Djibouti, we decided to put on a good African beat and got up to: “Shake shake shake, shake shake shake, shake______!” (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)

Until next week,
I leave you with a typical Djibouti greeting which is simply “Nabad” (Peace.)
Warmest regards,
Darlene