Search Results for: burkina faso

Formerly known as Upper Volta, (named by the French), her name was changed after gaining independence in 1960 to Burkina Faso. Burkina means “Free Man” in Moore’ and Faso means “Land” in Dyula, so together it means “Country of the Free Man”. The citizens are called Burkinabe, a multi-ethnic nation with at least 60 ethnic groups and as many languages. This land was part of the Great Mossi Empire, the path of several historical migrations, before the whole region was annexed by the French in 1896.

This landlocked country is located in the middle of West Africa. It is geographically in the Sahel, the agricultural region between the Sahara Desert and the coastal rain forests. Her high population and limited natural resources result in poor economic prospects for the majority of her citizens. As such, Burkina Faso is listed as one of the poorest nations in the world.

She borders Benin, Mali, Niger, Togo, Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana. Unrest in Cote d’Ivoire and Ghana has resulted in thousands of seasonal farm workers unable to find work in neighboring countries. This has taken a real toll, as one of the main exports of this country has been labor. Historically migrant workers from Burkina Faso went to work in the gold mines and plantations of Ghana and the Ivory Coast. The country is however, a large producer of cotton, backed by the Monsanto Corporation and nearly 80 percent of the crop is grown from genetically modified seeds. They also export gold and animal products.

The country is mostly rural and the population is highly mobile; a nomadic society. Changing cultivation and trade has made it that way. Most all of the agriculture is for sustenance, leaving only ten percent available for export. The boundaries set up by the colonial powers made little sense as the borders split people of the same ethnic groups, while enclosing people without any affiliations. Despite this, the country enjoys a pretty peaceful society, without any major conflicts. Perhaps it is due to a cultural practice called the “joking relationship”. Members of different tribes and ethnicities, whether strangers or friends, have a tradition that when they happen to meet, they insult each other in a teasing and humorous way. It is absolutely forbidden to take any offense. This approach creates a brotherhood, friendship and respect for one other.

French is the official language used in schools, the army and the media, however since most Burkinabe do not attend school, they speak their ethnic languages. Moore’ is what 40 percent of the population speaks, as a high number of citizens are Mossi. In the capital city of Ouagadougou, pronounced “woo-go-doo-go”, only 50 percent of the kids go to school and in the rural areas only 20 percent. Some of the children walk hours each day from their villages to school and then back home again.

As one of the poorest nations, they receive quite a bit of aid from other countries and charitable organizations. Vaccine programs have reached even the most remote villages and some medicines are made available for purchase in the village markets. Traditional healing methods are still widely available, using herbs, roots and barks to heal.

The country is tolerant concerning religion with 45 percent practicing traditional beliefs, such as animism, 43 percent practice Islam, with the balance being Christians. Each ethnic group has their own beliefs and specialists like earth priests, fortune tellers, healers and rainmakers. Witchcraft and magic are important in everyday life. These practitioners are chosen by tradition or called by a spirit.
Sacrifice of chickens, guinea fowl or even bigger livestock is the core ritual of traditional beliefs; these are offered to a wide range of spiritual forces. Many of these ethnic tribes have elaborate celebrations that can last for several days or even weeks to honor the deceased in the afterlife, elevating them to the sphere of their ancestors.

A big tourist attraction in Burkina Faso is Lake Tengrela, a small lake that is filled with hippopotamuses, which are sacred according to local legend. Because of this, it is said that they never attack humans. Speaking of tourist attractions there is a place called Loropeni, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which has ruins dating back 1000 years. It is believed to have been a trading post for the gold trade. The site encloses about two and a half acres and there is still much to be uncovered and discovered there.

Burkinabe cuisine is similar to many other West African countries and is based on staple foods such as sorghum, millet, rice, maize, peanuts, beans, yams and okra. Tô is the most common food. It is a dough-based meal which is made from millet, sorghum or corn and mixed with a sauce containing vegetables, such as tomatoes, carrots and peppers. On special occasions it is consumed with some type of meat like mutton or goat. In the urban areas, chicken is commonly cooked in the streets and called “poulet-bicyclette” which means, chicken on a bicycle, since that is how they are brought from the villages into town. Many local men drink what is called dolo or chapalo, a home-made millet beer, made mostly by women and sold in local markets. It is said that husbands get a first taste for free but then are expected to pay. A non-alcoholic drink is called Bissap, a sour tasting drink made from dried hibiscus flowers, is what I chose for our meal.

So let’s eat Burkinabe style:

The Menu

Appetizer
Chips d’Igname (Yam Chips)

Main Course
Cuisses de Poulet a la Puree de Patates Douces
(Chicken Thighs with Mashed Sweet Potatoes)

Served with French Green Beans

Dessert
Banfora (Fried Pastry with Pineapple)

Drink
Bissap du Burkina Faso (Burkinabe Hibiscus Flower Drink)

We set the table in red and green with a yellow star representing their flag. We decorated with staple products from their daily life, using yams, peanuts, hibiscus flowers and cotton. Traditionally you would sit on the floor and eat only with your right hand.

We began our meal with a simple appetizer of fried yam chips, they were absolutely delicious. We sipped our Bissap during the entire meal and it grew on us with each sip. It is a bit sour but leaves you craving more and we could see how it is loved as a perfect thirst quencher on a hot day in Burkina Faso.

For the main course we had chicken thighs and mashed sweet potatoes and green beans on the side. It made me wonder why I don’t mash sweet potatoes or yams more often, simple to make and perfectly delicious. The chicken was cooked in those familiar African flavors of peanut butter, tomato, coconut milk and a small chili, added for a little kick. My husband and I have both been amazed at how much we love these flavors together. At first, what seemed like such an odd combination, has become one of our favorites. This chicken dish is now added to the list! The French green beans were quickly fried al dente’ having a nice, light crunch and seasoned with onion, ginger, garlic and chili.

For dessert, we enjoyed Banfora. It was like a puffed pancake that was sweet and had bits of pineapple in it; simply divine! I had a couple left over which we enjoyed just as much with coffee the next morning.

The Burkinabe people are known to be very friendly with greetings that are ritualized and can seem quite demanding from a traveler’s perspective. They just want to get to know you so they will take your hand and they’ll ask, “How are you? And your family? And your job? And your journey?” And if you ask in kind, perhaps just for a moment, as you share a cup of tea, you will feel, not like a tourist but a friend.

I leave you with a little Mòoŕe lesson
“Yam Kibaré” Which means “How are you?”
And your response: “Laafi Bala, Ya Yamba? I am fine and you?
And then you are friends!

Until next week,
Warmest Regards,
Darlene

Both Niger and Nigeria get their names from the magnificent, River Niger.  How the river got its name, remains a mystery.  It is a very unusual and most important river to both countries.  The Niger River is the third largest in Africa, after the Nile and the Congo.  It is nearly 2600 miles long.  What makes the river so unusual, is its route.  The river’s source is only 150 miles from the Atlantic Ocean in the ancient rock of the Guinea Highlands, but instead of heading toward the ocean it flows away from the sea, into the Sahara Desert.  It is a crescent shape and makes its turn near the ancient city of Timbuktu, in Mali.  It then flows south, though Niger, Benin and Nigeria, where it finally ends, at the Niger Delta, in the Gulf of Guinea of the Atlantic Ocean.  It also floods each year along its route, making a marsh area that is valuable for farming, fishing and wildlife.  The river is known to be clear, with very little silt.

Both countries are located in West Africa.  Niger has seven neighbors: Libya to the northeast, Chad to the east, Nigeria and Benin to the south, Burkina Faso and Mali to the west and Algeria to the northwest.  The country is landlocked, with eighty percent of the land, covered by the Sahara Desert.  The land area of Niger is the largest in West Africa, however, most of the population lives in the far west and south of the country.  The country’s nickname is “The Frying Pan of the World.”  Yes, with its subtropical climate, it is one of the hottest countries in all the world.

Niger gained Independence from France in 1960 and has since had five constitutions and three periods of military rule.  Since a coup in 2010, Niger has become a democratic, multi-party, state.  The population, of nearly 19 million, lives in rural areas.  The capital city, is now Niamey, located in the southwest corner of the country.  Prior to 1926, Zinder was the capital city.  The economy is based on subsistence crops, livestock and uranium mining.  Niger’s population is made up of several ethnic groups. The three largest are: the Hausa, Zarma-Sonrai and the Tuareg.  The Tuaregs are often referred to as the” Blue people”, for the indigo, dye-colored clothes they wear, which stains their skin.  They have been one of the ethnic groups that have been historically influential in spreading Islam to the region.  Islam is the prevalent religion of Niger with eighty percent Islam and the balance mostly Christians.  French is the official language, along with ten others commonly spoken.  Most of the population speaks their indigenous language as their first language.

Unfortunately, Niger faces extreme challenges.  Aside from being one of the poorest nations on earth, it has one of the highest birthrates in the world.  Each Niger woman has on average, seven children.  The median age of the population is a very young, 15 years.  The literacy rate is only 28 percent; one of the lowest in the entire world.  Poor education, lack of healthcare, environmental degradation, overpopulation and drought all add to these challenges.  Most recently the government has had to also deal with the Islamic terrorist, jihadist group called, Boko Haram that is wreaking havoc on its border with Nigeria.  The country, in its landlocked position, faces additional challenges from turmoil all around it.  While the country does get some assistance from other nations, much work needs to be done to pull its citizens out of poverty.

Despite all the hardships that the people of Niger face, they go about their daily life and have celebrations and festivals that are deeply rooted in their histories.  Nearly every ethnic group in the region comes from an empire that ruled the area at one time or another.  They have many traditions.  The Salt Cure Festival and Guerewol Festival are two important ones in the country.

Niger also has some very important national parks; one in the north called, Air and Tenere National Nature Reserve and one in the south, where the W National Park has the most important population of the rare, West African lion, and the one of the last populations of the Northwest African cheetah.  Other wildlife includes elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and warthogs.  The Niger River is also home to the endangered, West African Manatee, as well as 250 fish species; twenty of which are found nowhere else on the planet.

The main staple crops are millet and sorghum.  These are made into stiff porridges and enjoyed alongside sauces, soups and stews.  Rice is also available and grown in the marshes.  The soups and stews are typically made of vegetables and peanuts, as meat is somewhat scarce.  The river provides fish as a needed protein and beans are also popular.  Like many African countries they like a bit of spice in their cuisine.

Nigeria also gets its name from the River Niger.  Aside from Niger to the north, its neighbors are: Chad to the north, Cameroon to the east, Benin to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the south.  Unlike its neighbor Niger, it is one of the wealthiest countries, due to oil and other mineral resources.   It is part of OPEC and the twelfth largest producer of oil in the world.  It accounts for 85 percent of the government’s revenue. Despite its richness, 62 percent of the population lives in poverty.  This is due to mismanagement and corruption.

Nigeria is the most populated country in all of Africa and eighth most populated in the world.   It is home to nearly 190 million people.  It is believed that one of five Africans, is of Nigerian descent.  Its nickname is “The Giant of Africa.”  The population of Nigeria is made up of more than 250 ethnic groups.  The largest and most politically influential are:  the Hausa, the Fulani and the Yoruba.

English is the official language, as they gained Independence from Britain in 1960.  However, more than 500 languages are also spoken.  The religious makeup is: 50 percent Muslim, who live mostly in the north, and 40 percent Christians, who call the south home, and the balance is a mix of indigenous beliefs.

The divide between the north and south continues to be a problem for the government.  The current president, Buhari, a northerner, elected in 2015, has spent two long stents out of the country on medical leave.  He has recently returned and is hoping to calm political disputes that have escalated in his absence, along with making good on his promise to face the war with Boko Haram.  The country has made strides to take territory back from the Jihadist group but are now facing terror threats on soft targets.  Boko Haram is using children as suicide bombers in crowded market places.  You may remember hearing about the young school girls who were kidnapped by the Boko Haram in 2014.  Some have been found but many are still missing.  With the country in recession, the government must work quickly to make opportunities for its young population, to keep them away from religious divides and civil war.  The population average in Nigeria is also a very young, 18 years of age.

There is much work to do in Nigeria especially in regards to infrastructure, power supply, sanitation and clean water.  If the president makes good on his promises to curb and squash corruption, there should be plenty of money to be used on these most important projects.   There are other opportunities in the large cities.  For example, “Nollywood” as it is called, is the second largest producers of movies behind India’s Bollywood.  Telecommunications, along with finance and information, are growing industries in Nigeria.  Many of these growing industries are located in Lagos, the largest city in all of Africa.  It is the financial hub and commercial capital of the country.  Lagos used to be the capital city, which was moved to Abuja in 1991. Lagos sits on the Atlantic coast, has many beaches, including the Ancient Slave Port of Badagry, which was also known as, “The Point of No Return.”  Today the area serves as an important place for reflection.

As we look into the cuisine of these two West African countries, they are very similar to the region as a whole.  They both use millet, sorghum, cassava, corn and rice as staple ingredients. Protein sources, like meat and chicken, are available to the wealthier people in the countries.  Fish from the River Niger, like carp, Nile perch and catfish, are all loved by all.  Melon seeds, which come from a gourd, somewhat shaped like a watermelon, called egusi, are a source of protein as well.  They are not only delicious, when toasted, but are used as a thickener in soups and stews.  Fruits, like mangoes, pineapple, oranges, melons and bananas, are available in the tropical areas.  Yams are an important crop in the eastern areas.  Peanuts are also a common ingredient in the cuisine, as is spice; they like it hot.  Alcohol is not consumed in the Muslim areas of the countries but local beers are enjoyed in the South of Nigeria.  Palm oil is the most used cooking oil in the region.

So let’s enjoy a Nigerien/Nigerian Meal

(just click the name or picture for the recipe)

The Menu

Starter

Suya (Grilled Spicy Meat)

Ghana means “Warrior King,” as they were a big part of what was known as the medieval, West African Ghana Empire, between the 4th to 13th centuries. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in the late 1400s. The area became known as the Gold Coast, for it was rich with gold. Other European nations tried to make their mark on the area, to include the Dutch, Swedes and French, but it was the English who won and colonized Ghana.

Ghana is located in West Africa, her neighbors are: Cote d’Ivoire to the west, Togo to the east, Burkina Faso to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the south. Accra is the capital city, strategically located on the coast. This coastal area housed many posts for trading slaves as well as gold, ivory and spices. Today many of the old posts still dot the coastline and serve as a reminder of their tragic past, which now draws many tourists. Ghana was the first sub-Saharan country to gain independence in 1957. English is the official language, however at least 80 other indigenous languages are spoken. The Ashanti are the largest ethnic tribe, also known as the Akan in Ghana. Akan and Twi are the two most common native languages spoken. Although Ghana is surrounded by countries that were colonized by the French, few Ghanaians speak it.

Ghana is often times looked to as the poster child for African countries during the post-colonization era. Their journey has not been easy, and they still faces challenges. Modern day Ghana however, holds democratic elections and has much to offer visitors with excellent food, music and natural beauty abounding. The country is mostly Christian, with a small Muslim population and of course animist believers. (Those with the worldview that non-human entities such as animals, plants, and inanimate objects possess a spiritual essence.) Ghana provides a freedom of religion mandate and children are taught tolerance in school. “Love your Muslim brother as you would your Christian brother,” is a good lesson for Ghana and the rest of the world as well.

The Ashanti are one of the few matrilineal societies in West Africa. Women are at the center of commerce and it is most evident at Ghana’s Kejetia market. Located in Kumasi, the Ashanti region’s capital, this open air market is the largest in all of West Africa. This is a place where all of Ghana’s crafts, fabric, produce, meats and supplies can be bought and sold. Visiting this central market is the perfect way to gain insight into the people and culture of Ghana.

Ghanaians love to eat and socialize and this is often done at what is called a “chop bar;” an open air restaurant where a local specialty is cooked and enjoyed amongst the guests, along with great dance music. “Highlife” is the musical genre of Ghana. This music marries Akan music with western instruments, like jazzy horns and guitars which lead the band. Highlife is now enjoyed all over the world and its beat and sound have been the inspiration for many popular songs.

Ghana is home to the largest, man-made lake in the world. Lake Volta is 3275 square miles and was created as part of their hydro-electric plan. Ghana supplies itself and surrounding countries with power. They are contemplating a nuclear power generation plant as well and have a couple of nuclear research facilities in the country. A 2007 discovery of oil has also brought economic promise. It is however, their natural resources and agriculture that bring them their greatest wealth. Gold, diamonds, bauxite, aluminum, magnesium and iron ore are but a few of their precious resources. Twenty percent of Ghana’s land is arable and besides growing a variety of crops, they are the second largest exporter in the world of cocoa behind the Ivory Coast. (They have plans to become number one in the world this year.) Clearly declines in commodity prices can prove devastating to a country like Ghana but we can only hope that their diversification will keep them on their growth path. The past Secretary-General of the United Nations, Kofi Annan, is from Ghana. Perhaps he will lend his knowledge and expertise of the world to help guide his country to prosperity.

Ghana has not had any confirmed cases of the deadly Ebola virus and was the chosen location for headquarters of the World Health Organization during the crisis, which just recently was able to close. Although Ghana’s government has made strides in healthcare and reducing hunger, they still suffer from infant and child mortality rates that are much too high as well as HIV/AIDS problems. They have one of the highest percentages of people living and dying of AIDS in the world. Another of their big health risks today is Malaria, transferred by the Anopheles mosquito. In the cities, healthcare for these diseases is available, however, in rural areas, it is severely lacking.

Ghana is a multi-cultural land that has managed a peaceful coexistence among the various ethnic groups. Festivals happen year round with each tribe having many reasons to celebrate. As we look into Ghanaian cuisine, it is as diverse and exciting as the country itself. It, of course, includes all the staple West African flavors that we have come to love; fu-fu, groundnut soups and stews, cassava, yams, tomato, onion, plantains and beans. Seafood is abundant along the coast, lakes and rivers, and meat is also available. It is however, the peppers that truly make their cuisine memorable. They make a variety of dishes and sauces using peppers that are simply magical.

So let’s eat Ghanaian Cuisine.

The Menu
Starter
Akotonshi (Stuffed crabs)

Main
Chichinga (Suya chicken Kabob street food)

Jollof Rice (Spicy rice)

Ghanaian Salad

Dessert
Kelewele (Fried plantains)

Our decorations for Ghana were special. Hand painted symbols from the Akan tribe, were chosen and painted by our guests. (A fun project to make with kids.) They were painted with colors of the Ghana flag; red, yellow, green and black. The Akan in Ghana, make the real Kente cloth. This cloth is woven by men, with distinctive symbols and colors, each having a specific meaning. The weaving process is intricate and takes years to master. Our dinner places were set and we added some small figurines to represent the Highlife genre while this music played in the background. The meal was served communally, with a bowl of water provided to wash our hands before we began. We ate with only our right hand, as would be customary in Ghana. A spoon is sometimes offered to guests, since it takes some practice eating Ghanaian style, if you are not used to eating with one hand.

We began with the amazing, stuffed crabs, called akotonshi. They were served as appetizers and were the perfect starter. This delicate balance of sweet crab meat and the spicy, pepper sauce, browned with bread crumbs, was absolutely sublime.

For the main course, we served chichinga. This is a common street food found all over West Africa. You may remember our Journey to Cameroon and the meat kabob we loved so much, called Suya, (pronounced SOYA.) The chicken was first marinated in ginger and garlic and then sprinkled with the suya. Once grilled, we dipped it in the African pepper sauce and it was heaven! We enjoyed this alongside another famous West African dish, called Jollof rice. It seems that every country has their own version of this spicy rice dish and it is often made with fish, meats and vegetables added to the rice. This version was a vegetarian version of the spicy Jollof rice that went beautifully with the chichinga.

Ghanaian salad, was another side dish, which delightfully rounded out the meal. The salad is made with tuna and hard-boiled eggs, plus some veggies and baked beans, of all things. A mayonnaise based dressing, made with a bit of the African pepper sauce, was an incredible complement. This salad would make a lovely lunch all on its own.

For dessert, we served Kelewele, pronounced Kay-la-way-la. This is the familiar, fried plantain but with a culinary twist. The plantains were dusted with cayenne and ginger before frying, which was a delicious treat to end our Ghanaian meal. In Ghana you would likely enjoy your meal with a little palm wine, a favorite beverage there, made from the many palm trees found in their tropical jungles.

As we say goodbye to Ghana I leave you with the meanings of the Akan symbols that the kids unknowingly picked for our decorations.

Love does not lose its way home, the power of love
The earth has weight, wealth, might.
Do not boast, do not be filled with pride, there is a need for humility and service.

Until next week,
Warmest regards,
Darlene

The Ivory Coast, is what the translation of her name is, from French to English. The name came from the profitable ivory trade which took place there during the seventeenth century. The trading of ivory did not last long, as it quickly brought about a massive decline in elephants. The trade virtually died by the beginning of the eighteenth century. Located in West Africa, Cote D’Ivoire is bordered by Ghana, Liberia, Mali, Burkina Faso and Guinea and the southern border is the Atlantic Ocean.

Although Cote D’Ivoire has a border on the Atlantic Ocean, the area is rough and without any sheltered harbors along its coastline. This was a blessing for the Ivorians, as the Europeans never made a permanent trading post for slaves there. She was a French Colony from 1843 until 1960, when Ivorians finally gained their independence. The French considered Cote D’Ivoire their “pet” colony and often referred to her as “the Jewel of West Africa.” After gaining Independence, she became politically stable and economic prosperity followed. However, that only lasted until the death of Dictator Felix Houphouet-Boigny in 1993. The country has suffered civil unrest, with many coups since then and has been unstable ever since.

The official language is French, although with nearly 60 different ethnic tribes living in the country, many indigenous languages are also spoken. The country is divided into four different cultural regions: the Akan in the Atlantic East, the Kru in the Atlantic West, the Voltaic in the northeast and the Mande in the northwest.

The capital city is officially Yamoussoukro but it is Abidjan that is the most populated and serves as the administrative center of the country. About half the population lives in urban cities. The constitution guarantees freedom of religion to all citizens. There is a mix of Muslims (about 40 percent) mainly in the north, Christians (about 35 percent) mainly in the south and those that have their own indigenous beliefs, making up the balance.

One of the legacies left by the Dictator Boigny is the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, Yamoussoukro. It is a replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. It took four years to build and cost 300 million US dollars. It is the largest church in the world with an indoor seating capacity of 18,000, yet only a little more than three hundred worshippers attend the Sunday services. It was only filled to capacity twice. Once for the blessing of Pope John Paul II. This service was postponed for a year as the Vatican was not exactly pleased that its crown jewel was overshadowed by an African president’s replica. The Pope insisted the building could not be taller than St. Peter’s Basilica. The architect obliged by lowering the dome height but then placed a massive cross on top, making it 100 feet taller than the Vatican. The other event that filled the church was the funeral of the Dictator Boigny.

Today the church is maintained by clergymen appointed by the Pope, at the cost of $1.5 million dollars annually. “The size and expense of the building in such a poor county with an annual GDP of $650 is a delicate matter, to say the least” said a Vatican official. The Pope did stipulate that a hospital be built for the poor, which finally opened in 2012. Surprisingly, the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, has somehow survived amongst intense civil unrest and violence.

About 75 percent of the population makes a living in agriculture, as the Ivory Coast is the largest exporter of cocoa beans in the world. They also export a substantial amount of coffee, bananas and palm oil. They are working on diversifying their economy, to be less dependent on agriculture, as price fluctuations in those markets are very unpredictable.

The different ethnic groups each have their own music and dance rituals, which are key to the storytelling of their ancestry. One of the biggest festivals of the Ivory Coast is called “Fetes de Masques”, a festival of masques. Many villages participate in this celebration to pay homage to the forested spirits, embodied by the villagers, who wear colorful costumes and masks (which showcases their fine woodworking skills.) The festival is held each November in a town called Man.

The Akan people celebrate the yam festival. They are part of what is known as the yam belt, which includes Nigeria, Ghana, Benin and Central African Republic. This yam belt provides 94 percent of the world’s yams. The festival serves several purposes. It is a memorial service for the dead and a celebration of thanksgiving for a good harvest. It is also a ritual of purification to keep away evil spirits. Finally, it celebrates the original Akan chief, who is said to have risked his life by taking the first taste of a yam in the kingdom. (“I yam not afraid,” he said)

The cuisine in Cote D’Ivoire is similar to its West African neighbors, with tubers, such as yam and cassava, ground nuts, millet, corn and rice, used commonly. Meat is a luxury, however chicken is served at special occasions. Fish and fried plantains are common in the coastal areas, while the familiar fufu, served with spicy stew sauces, is considered the national dish. They like it spicy there, using very hot peppers in most dishes.

The meals are often cooked in what is called a calabash. This vessel is used for many purposes including: washing hands before a meal and doing dishes afterwards, cleaning clothes and bathing children as well as being played as a drum. Often wealth is determined by the number of calabashes a household possesses. Subsistence farming is also an important means of income to many Ivorians, selling their extra produce in the open village markets.

They have small, open-air restaurants, called Maquis, where authentic Ivorian cuisine is served.  Attiéké is a classic dish of fermented and grated cassava, served as a side dish with Kedjenou, a slow cooked chicken stew. This dish is made in a tightly sealed clay cooking pot, called a canari and placed on hot coals. The canari is gently turned or shaken as the chicken cooks, making sure that no steam escapes. The result is exceptionally tender chicken, cooked in its own rich juices.

So let’s eat Ivorian Style:

The Menu
Soup
Velouté d'Ignames (Cream of Yam Soup)

Salad
Cucumber and Courgette Salad

(Cucumber and Zucchini Salad)

Main
Kedjenou (Spicy Chicken Stew)

Served with
Attiéké (Fermented Cassava)

Dessert
Melon Fingers (Slices of Melon served with Lime)

We set a mat on the floor and decorated with the colors of the flag; orange, white and green. Orange represents the savanna grasslands, green represents the coastal forests and white represents the country’s rivers. We also used elephant figurines, as they are considered the national animal of Cote D’Ivoire.  Pictures of African masks donned our candles giving the sense of flickering tribal spirits. We began with a vessel containing warm, soapy water to wash our hands and we used only our right hand to eat, as would be customary there.

The first course was a delicious cream of yam soup, chosen in honor of the Akan yam festival. We loved it. I was only able to find red yams at my local grocery store but yams, from the yam belt, come in many different colors.

The next part of the meal was served all together. The main dish called Kedjenou, was awesome. This method of cooking, without allowing steam to escape, makes the chicken incredibly tender and sumptuous. I went to an African market to find the fermented cassava, called Attiéké. I bought it frozen but it is also available dried, in a box. It was steamed and had a similar consistency to couscous. However, it has a unique sourness to the flavor that was a lovely complement to the Kedjenou. We also prepared a cucumber and zucchini salad, which was basically pickled in a sweet vinegar with some red pepper flakes. We often make a similar salad of cucumber and red onion in vinegar, but this one was much better. The sweetness added to the vinegar created a perfect tang and the zucchini added a wonderful crispness. (I will keep this salad in mind, as I always seem to have an abundance of zucchini in my garden.)

For dessert, we enjoyed a simple slice of cantaloupe, with a touch of lime. Fruit is commonly eaten as dessert there. I also loved that our dessert matched the colors of their flag.

As we say goodbye to Cote D’Ivoire, we do so with hope that this African country too, will find peace and prosperity. After dinner we put on a movie called “Black and White in Color.” It was filmed on the Ivory Coast and won an Academy Award in 1976, for Best Foreign Language Film.

Until Next Week,
Au revoir (Goodbye, in French, pronounced uh reh vwah)
Warmest regards,
Darlene

Benin, a small country, located in southwest Africa, is formerly known as Dahomey, and also referred to as the “Slave Coast.” “The Door of No Return” is what one memorial is called. It is a site that sits at the end of the 2.5 mile long journey which led chained, beaten and branded slaves to ships that would take them to their “new lives” in the “new world.” The door, symbolized the end of a slave’s life in Africa. Most would never return to their homeland after being shipped off to the Americas. Surprisingly, it was the Kingdom of Dahomey who sold their own people into the slave trade. Another monument, called Zomachi, was built in 1998, to ask forgiveness for the ancestors who were involved in the slave trade. Today, it is a place where people gather for repentance and reconciliation.

Benin’s shape is short and thin and kind of a key shape, with the north being wider than the south. Her southern border is on the Atlantic Ocean. Her neighbors are Togo, to the west, Burkina Faso and Niger, to the north and Nigeria, to the east. Benin contains many ethnic groups considered to be indigenous. After she gained independence from France in 1960, there were coups, uprisings and instability. Benin, for a time, was ruled by a dictatorship with a Marxist-Leninist philosophy, which then collapsed in 1989. It is one of the first countries in Africa to successfully transform from a dictatorship to a pluralistic political system. Today, Benin is one of the most stable countries in Africa. She is, however, poor and relies heavily on trade with her large neighbor Nigeria and also India and China. Cotton is by far the major export of Benin and they make incredible fabrics: vibrant and colorful. They also export peanuts, cashews, palm oil and seafood products.

Many languages are spoken in Benin, French being the official language, but Fon and Yoruba are the most prevalent tribal languages. Known as the “Cradle of Voodoo,” which the locals call “Vodun” (meaning spirits,) is the official religion of Benin. But this is not what you are likely thinking. This religion is not about sticking pins in dolls and casting black magic spells to torture enemies. Their religion dates back to the thirteenth century. It is a complex system of beliefs, based on the primary belief, that one god created the world. Their god, called Mawa-Lissa (a woman,) is the master over a system of lesser gods and spirits and they do, actually, worship serpents and other animals. Nonetheless, Vodun followers peacefully coexist with Christians and Muslims. A former slave trading port, Ouidah, is the spiritual center for Vodun in Benin.

If you are a white person visiting Benin, you would likely be shouted at and called a “Yovo”. This is to get your attention so that you might wave and smile and perhaps, even talk. The Beninois are very friendly. Just don’t take a picture of them or any of their temples without permission. They believe that photography steals a piece of their soul.

The cuisine is very similar to other West African countries, with staples like maize, yam, salted fish, okra, rice, tomatoes, peppers, beans and couscous. The main source of protein is chicken and goat, but fish and seafood are also common dishes. Fruits, such as mangoes, oranges, pineapple and bananas, are abundant in the south of Benin.

So let’s eat!

The Menu

Appetizer
Akkra Funfun
(A deep fried, white bean fritter)

Main Course

Ago Glain (served with rice)
(A dish of crabs cooked in tomato,
onion and peanut butter sauce)

Dessert
Beninese baby bananas in orange sauce, served over vanilla Ice cream.

We turned on the music of Benin’s superstar, Angelique Kidjo, who graced us with her homespun, rhythmic beat. We set the table with beautiful cotton fabrics in the colors of the Benin flag; red, yellow and green.

We began the meal with the bean fritters, served up just after cooking, to optimize their crispiness. The palm oil added an interesting flavor as well. Of course we only ate with our right hand, as would be customary there.

The main course was crab, with a complement of tomato, onion and peanut butter (reminiscent of the side dish we had made from Angola.) It was a wonderful fusion of flavors.

For dessert, the warm baby bananas drizzled with a delicious blood orange sauce and served over creamy vanilla ice cream, was a lovely end to our Beninese meal.

There are many proverbs in Benin, which is a way for the elders to hand down wisdom to the younger generations. Historically, the proverbs would be illustrations, rather than written words. The proverbs of the kings were shown on top of their Asen (the metal poles they carried).

I leave you this week with a few of them:

The picture: a cat eating a fish.
Meaning: Do not employ a cat to sell fish.

The picture: Two birds trying to put their heads into a small pot.
Meaning: There can only be one captain of a ship.

The picture: an egg
Meaning: your words are like an egg, once they break you cannot take them back, so think before you speak.

Until next week,

Warmest regards,
Darlene