Search Results for: new zealand

Aotearoa is what the Maori call their land, which means, Land of the Long White Cloud.  Abel Tasman, the famous Dutch explorer, was the first European to discover the land and called it Staten Landt, back in 1642.  At that time, he mistakenly assumed it was part of the southern tip of South America.  It was shortly thereafter, in 1645, when Dutch cartographers renamed the land Nova Zeelandia, after the Dutch province of Zeeland.  It was ultimately the British Explorer, Captain James Cook, who anglicized the name to New Zealand, when he mapped the islands in 1769.

New Zealand is an island country in the South Pacific Ocean.  It is in the southernmost part of Polynesia.  It lies more than a thousand miles southeast of Australia, its nearest neighbor.  The country comprises two main islands; the North and South Islands, as well as a number of smaller islands, some of which are hundreds of miles away from the main group.  The capital city is Wellington and the largest city is Auckland. Both of these cities are located on the North Island.  More people live in Auckland than on the whole South Island alone.  New Zealand was annexed by Great Britain in 1840 and became a self-governing dominion in 1907.  She gained full independence in 1947.

New Zealand was one of the last places on earth to be inhabited by humans.  The Maori, a Polynesian people, reached New Zealand around 800 A.D.  Maori legend says that the North Island of New Zealand was fished by the daring demigod, Maui.  Today the North Island is known as Maui’s fish.  The Maori are considered to be the indigenous people of New Zealand.  They arrived from a place they called Hawaiki.  This place is not on a map but is believed to have been an island or group of islands in the South Pacific Ocean.  The Maori language and culture has similarities to others of Polynesia, such as the Cook Islands, Hawaii and Tahiti.  They have enjoyed many years of isolation, which allowed their customs and culture to flourish.

The area of New Zealand is a little bit bigger than the United Kingdom and is home to only about 4.5 million people, making it one of the least populated nations. The population is 15 percent Maori, 70 percent European and the balance, a mix of other ethnicity's.  English, Maori and New Zealand sign language, are the official languages.  The main religion is Christian, however an equal number of people state they belong to no religion.  New Zealand is often listed as one of the most peaceful and least corrupt nations on earth.  The people are known to be extremely friendly with liberal views.  New Zealand was the first country to give women the right to vote back in 1893. The drinking age is 18, prostitution is legal, the driving age is 15 and the consensual age for sex is 16.  Same sex marriage became legal in 2003.  It was also the first country to have the top three positions of power held simultaneously by women; the Prime Minister, the Governor and the Chief Justice.

The landscape of New Zealand is varied and both islands are spectacularly beautiful.  It has a huge amount of coastline due to the numerous harbors and fjords.  It is only 280 miles across at its widest point, so throughout most all of New Zealand, the coastline is not far away.  It is no surprise that Auckland is called the “City of Sails”, having the highest, boat ownership per capita, in the world.  New Zealand, with its pristine rivers and lakes, as well as the coastal waters, makes it one of the premier fishing destinations in the world.  The largest, fresh water spring, known as Pupu Springs, discharges almost 4000 gallons of water per second and contains the clearest water ever measured, outside of Antarctica.

New Zealand is a volcanic region and part of the Ring of Fire.  This is a horseshoe shaped area in the Pacific Ocean, where about 90% of the world's earthquakes and 81% of the world's largest earthquakes occur.  Numerous earthquakes are felt annually in New Zealand and there have been a few with devastating consequences.  The most recent, with a devastating human toll, was in Christchurch in 2011, where 185 people were killed.

The indigenous vegetation of New Zealand consists of mixed, evergreen forest, which covers two-thirds of the land.  One-third of New Zealand is protected as national parks.  Nearly nine-tenths of the indigenous plants are unique to the country.  When the Maori arrived, there were few animals, making the islands a haven for birds, due to lack of predators.  The flightless kiwi is the national bird of New Zealand and why the nation’s people are called Kiwis; a nickname likely given to troops during World War I.  There were only three kinds of reptiles, bats and a few species of frogs.  Today, sheep and cattle are abundant as well as many other animals, brought over by Europeans.

New Zealanders are adventurers. They host many activities that can scare the normal tourist half to death.  One such activity is cigarette boat racing, along the water’s edge, racing at 70 mph, missing the cliff edge by inches.  Another is called black water rafting, which is much like white water rafting (which is also popular) but this is done in caves with nothing more than a mining helmet for light so being suddenly thrust into rapids comes as a bit of a surprise.  They are avid sky divers, paragliders, and bungee jumpers and have the world’s largest swing that reaches speeds of 75 mph as it freefalls and then swings high above the Nevis River. They also have a unique cave filled with glow worms that are only found there.  Thousands of these tiny creatures radiate their light as guides provide commentary on the cave's historical and geological significance. The Waitomo Glowworm caves is one of New Zealands most visited attractions.

As we look into the cuisine of New Zealand, the biggest influence comes from their local ingredients.  New Zealand has a large agriculture economy, which yields many products from both land and sea.  A few of their biggest exports are sheep, dairy and wool.  It is estimated that there are nine sheep for every human in New Zealand.  Seafood is also plentiful.  Green lipped mussels, scallops, oysters and whitebait are just some of their treasures.  The cuisine is similar to Australian cuisine, which has a British influence.  Dishes such as savory pies and fish and chips are much loved throughout the islands.  Mediterranean and the Pacific Rim have shaped the cuisine as well.  Asian culinary traditions become popular in the 1970s.  Today their cuisine is considered to be cosmopolitan.  Fruits and vegetables grow really well in their rich, volcanic soil.  Kiwi is a fruit that is often associated with New Zealand.  Kiwi grows there, however, they are not native to the land.  Originally the fruit was called Chinese gooseberries and was introduced to New Zealand in 1904.  New Zealand is also famous for its Manuka honey, renowned for its medicinal benefits, which is produced from the pollen of the beautiful Manuka flowers, with a little help from the honey bees.

The Maori brought with them from Polynesia, kumara (sweet potato) taro (another root vegetable’ and ti’ leaves (used like banana leaves to impart steam when wrapped around meats or fish.)  The lush, native New Zealand plants such as fern root and watercress, along with seafood and a rare, flightless bird, called moa (which were hunted to extinction) all played a significant role in the Maori diet.  Like other Polynesians, the Maori cook foods in earth ovens.  Stones are heated by fire and food is packed in leaves and place on the hot coals.  The packs are further covered with foliage, cloth or wet sacks and then the earth.  Today in New Zealand it is popular for tourists to visit a Maori village and participate in a hangi (feast).  When you approach the Maori village a tribal warrior or two in traditional garb, heavily tattooed and wielding swords, will test you to see if you are friend or foe. They do this by throwing down a taki, or token gift such as a leaf, while shouting chants and then they stick their tongues out as far as humanly possible. Then a woman elder will sing a song to create a sacred space for the host and visitors to meet.  Finally one of the visitors will pick up the taki, as a gesture of courage.  Once in the meeting place the women will demonstrate their skill with poi balls (soft balls connected to a tether) which are twirled to make tribal rhythms as they chant and sing.  It is a mesmerizing artistic dance.

So let’s enjoy a Kiwi Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Baked New Zealand Green Mussels

Main Course

Grilled Lamb Chops with Mint Pesto

Served with

Kumara Salad  (Sweet Potato Salad)

Dessert

Pavlova (Meringue with Cream and Fruit)

Our decor started out with fern leaves, as the silver fern is considered to be symbol of the country.  A picture of the flightless, kiwi bird, as well as the kiwi fruit, a sweet potato or kumara, a sheep, green mussel shells and a bungee cord (as that is where commercial bungee jumping originated), completed the setting.

We began the meal with a typical Maori greeting which is a called hongi.  This is done by pressing your nose and forehead to your greeter’s nose and forehead and sharing the breath of life or ha.  Often the greeter will accompany the hongi by saying “kia ora”or “greetings.”  It is quite a spiritual experience.  I came across this fun picture of our beloved author, Zane Grey doing this exact ritual while in New Zealand. The photo was taken in 1926.  He was wearing a ceremonial feather cloak, called a kahu kiwi.  These were woven by women for the chiefs and special guests.  The cloak was made by inserting kiwi feathers into a backing of flax.

Our first course was the famous, green lipped, New Zealand mussels.  I absolutely love these mussels and make them all the time.  This recipe had a bit of an Asian flair.  A sauce, made of mayonnaise, sirachi, sugar and lime juice covers the mussels, that come on the half shell.  (These mussels can be found in the freezer section of most grocery stores.)  They are topped with a bit of cheese and baked for about 12 minutes.  They were garnished with a touch of flying fish roe, for a decadent and mouthwatering start to our Kiwi feast.

The main course and salad were served together and were a perfect balance.  A kumara (sweet potato) salad that had watercress, fresh greens, radishes, goat cheese and pinenuts, was dressed with a light, balsamic vinaigrette.  It was a lovely salad served alongside New Zealand grilled lamb chops that were marinated overnight in a mayonnaise, honey, sirachi and mint marinade.  They just take a few minutes on the grill and were also served with a mint pesto.  These lamb chops, mint pesto and salad were all scrumptious.  For those people who think they don’t like lamb, I am pretty certain this recipe would change their minds.  Lamb is made all different ways in New Zealand but this way is a keeper!

For dessert we enjoyed the controversial Pavlova.  The origin of this beloved dessert has been the subject of debate between Australia and New Zealand for ages.  Based on my research, I chose it to make it for New Zealand.  This is my new all-time, favorite dessert, regardless of which country claims it.  The dessert is named after the famous Russian prima ballerina, Anna Pavlova, that toured both New Zealand and Australia in the 1920s.  The dessert is a meringue that is crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside.  Fresh fruit and cream are added.  (This one was made with strawberries and raspberries.)  Finally it is topped with sliced almonds and shaved chocolate.  Pretty much any kind of fruit is acceptable and often times the kiwi fruit is included.  This dessert will remain a lifetime treasure.

As we say goodbye to this peaceful and beautiful island nation of New Zealand,  I leave you with a excerpt from Zane Grey’s book the Tales of Anglers Eldorado New Zealand. This was his first meeting of the Maoris.   “He first introduced the chief Mita, who in his native costume made a striking picturesque appearance.  The chief in most forceful voice and dignified manner, began his address, the content of which was translated by Mr Buck.  What was my amaze and embarrassment presently to hear “Greetings and salutations to Zane Grey, who had come from far to conquer the leviathans of the deep.  We wish to bestow upon him the name Maui, after our Maui legend of the great fisherman of the Maoris.””

Zane Grey aside from being a world renowned author, was a fisherman extraordinaire that held 11 world fishing titles and was instrumental in bringing forward fishing techniques used today.

We are now off to watch the Lord of the Rings trilogy as every bit of it was filmed in New Zealand.  Then off for a nice walk/hike they call “tramping” in New Zealand, a national pastime!  The clear water, outdoor lifestyle and great food just may be why New Zealanders have one of the highest life expectancies in the world.

Until next time,

Haere ra (farewell) in Maori

Darlene Longacre

How did Tonga get its name?

Tonga comes from the Polynesian language’s word “fakatonga,” which means “southwards.”  Tonga is the archipelago’s southern most group of islands that makes up central Polynesia. 

Where is Tonga located?

Tonga is located in Oceania; within a small archipelago in the south Pacific Ocean.  It lies directly south of Samoa and about two-thirds of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand.

It has 169 islands, however only 36 of them are inhabited.  These islands are in three main groups – Vava’u, Ha’apai, and Tongatapu, the latter is the largest island and where the capital city of Noku’alofa is located.  They are quite spread out, over about 500 miles.

Tonga is located in the “Ring of Fire,” where earthquakes and volcanic activity are common. 

A brief history of Tonga

The earliest known inhabitants of Tonga were the Austronesian people, from about 3000 years ago, known as Lapita.  They were famous for their elaborately decorated pottery. 

Beginning in the 10th century AD, Tonga was ruled by a line of sacred kings and queens known as the Tui’I Tonga.  Over the centuries, there have been power transfers, up until the third line of Monarchs, the Tu’I Kanokupolu, who eventually became the permanent rulers.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Over the years, the islands were visited by many navigators, beginning with the Dutch in 1616.  Captain James Cook who famously called Tonga, “The Friendly Islands,” visited them on a few occasions in the 1770s. 

The Spanish arrived in 1793.  It was, however, the arrival of the Wesleyan Methodist missionaries in the 1820s, that had the greatest influence in Tonga.

Tonga is very prideful that they were the only Pacific Island nation that wasn’t colonized by European power.  They did become a British protectorate in 1900 through a friendly agreement but became a fully independent nation in 1970.

In the late 20^th century and early 21^st century, pressure grew for political reform, moving towards a more democratic society.  Tonga still has a king and is run as a constitutional monarchy, but there is now a prime minister and a parliament.

Tongan culture

Tonga is home to about 105,000 inhabitants.  It also has a large diaspora population that sends remittances to their native lands as they live and work abroad.  Ninety-eight percent of the Tongan population are Polynesian, with a few Europeans, Chinese and other Pacific Islanders. The official languages are Tongan and English.

There are four core values that guide Tongan society.  They are: mutual respect (Fetaka’apa’ apa’ aki,) sharing, cooperating and fulfilment of mutual obligations, (Feveitokai’aki,) humility and generosity (Lototoo,) and loyalty and commitment (Tauhi Vaha’a.)

Family is the central unit in Tongan life and elders command the most respect.  Family may include distant relatives, cousins and of course siblings,parents and grandparents. It is said the respect for family is a reflection of Tongan’s love of the Royal family.

Tonga is unique in that its society is entwined with Christianity.  The Royal family are devout Methodists, as are a large percentage of Tongans.  On Sundays there are no flights scheduled, no business contracts allowed and no sporting activities.  Only essential businesses are open on Sundays.  There are harsh penalties and even imprisonment, if this rule is broken.  Sunday is meant to be a day of rest to attend church and feast with family and community.

Sunday is also a day for kava (a spicy, murky, drink made from the ground roots of a pepper plant,) often enjoyed before and after church.  Kava is said to relax the body and makes your lips and tongue numb.  It is a ceremonial drink and nearly every village has a Kava club that is a popular place for the  men of the village to gather in the evenings.

Handicrafts, in the form of mats and tapa cloth, have been an artform in Tonga for centuries.  Typically, made by women, the weaving of mats takes skill, patience, and a sense of design.  Often the goods are sold directly by the people who make them, so there is a personal connection.  Wood carving, bone carving and basket weaving are also important skills.

Tapa making and painting is still all done by hand.  The bark of the mulberry tree is used and beaten with wooden mallets.  This sound is heard from early morning until sunset and is one of Tonga’s most familiar sounds.  Women gather in their homes or at the village’s communal tapa house to assist each other in this art form.  Tapa are given as traditional gifts and make great souvenirs.

Music and Tongan dance are also important pieces of their society and culture. Dance movements are graceful and visually enhance the subtle melodies of sung poetry.

There are many traditional Tongan dances which express stories of Tongan history and legends. There is one dance called “Lakalaka,” in which a head feather called a “tekiteki” is worn.  The feather enhances the dancer’s head movements and is the most important component in the dance.  It is recognized as a UNESCO masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Tongan cuisine

Being tropical islands in the South Pacific, makes seafood very important in the Tongan diet.  Both fish and shellfish are still speared by hand by the native people.  Fish is oven baked in leaves in the traditional underground oven called, the “umu.”  It is also often consumed raw with coconut milk and sea water.  

Meat, including suckling pig, chickens, corned beef, and sheep are a few of the more popular meats.  Sadly, the introduction of some of these items have made Tonga the most obese country in the world. 

Tongans are a genetically large and strong people; the previous king was the largest Monarch in history, weighing in at 209 kgs, (460 lbs.)  He suffered from diabetes and heart disease before his death in 2006.  In his later years, he did shed quite a bit of weight and worked out three times a week to be an inspiration to his people.

Taro, yams, bananas, coconuts, breadfruits and tapioca are all important staples.  Tropical fruit also plays a central role in Tongan cuisine.  Oranges, limes and lemons, along with watermelon, onions, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes and pumpkin, are considered new foods, brought to the islands by westerners.

When Tongans feast they will serve up to 30 different dishes on a “pola;” a long tray made from coconut fronds.  Some dishes like beota’ika (marinated raw fish,) lu pulu (corned beef and coconut milk, wrapped in taro leaves,) wrapped vegetables, boiled in coconut cream and of course meat, seafood and octopus, are revered. Food and feasting are an integral part of Tongan society.

So let’s enjoy a Tongan meal:

The Meal

Starter

Ota Ika (Raw fish Salad)

Main Course

Lo’I Feke (Octopus in coconut cream)

Served with

Otai (Watermelon drink)

Dessert

Faikakai Malimali

(Banana dumplings with sweet coconut syrup)

For our dinner, we set out tapa cloths and shells, along with bright red flowers to represent the national flower called “Garcinia Sessilis.”  This was to give us the feeling of being on an island paradise.  Red is the national color of Tonga.

We also placed a small wooden boat and a white star, to represent how Tongans have learned to use the stars like a compass, along with currents and winds.  They are skilled at navigating the ocean in their canoe-like boats.  We put on  Tongan love songs and began our meal by saying grace, which is common in Tonga. 

Our first course was the national dish, called ota ika.  It is basically a ceviche.  Ours was made with fresh tuna, mixed with tomatoes, onions and a touch of chili.  The fish is first marinated in lime juice and then served with coconut milk. 

Ceviche is one of my favorite dishes, so this was a big hit!  I really liked the addition of the coconut milk, which gave it a bit of sweetness and a creaminess to the dish.

Our main course also came from the sea and was another recipe featuring coconut.  It was octopus (another favorite), onion and coconut cream.  Three simple ingredients, made this a scrumptious dish.  

We enjoyed our meal with a wonderful drink called otai, made with tropical fruits and watermelon.  It was like a delicious smoothie and we savored it.  

For dessert, we served faikakai malimali, which are little, banana dumplings that we dipped into a sweet coconut syrup. 

After dinner, I couldn’t help but reminisce about a fond memory from my childhood.  I come from three generations of Methodist ministers.  You see, I am a “PK” or a preacher’s kid.  I have wonderful memories of a Tongan family who was part of our congregation in Culver City, California. 

I remember they would dig a giant pit on the church grounds to make an umu. This was the oven that would roast a whole pig which was served along with other Tongan specialties.  I also remember them singing and dancing for us. They were so beautiful and graceful and had amazing voices. They always made me want to take a trip to Tonga.

As we say goodbye to Tonga, it is with a prayer of hope.  They recently suffered from a massive underwater volcanic eruption on January 15^th,2022, that triggered tsunamis that covered  the islands in ash, and knocked out communications entirely. 

Satellite images recorded the mushroom cloud covering 650km, (over 400 miles) one hour after the initial eruption.  One thing is certain, the Tongans are a resilient and strong people who will no doubt rebuild their beautiful and friendly islands.

Until next time,

“Nofo”  (Good bye in Tongan)

Warmest regards,

Darlene  

How did Samoa get its name?

There are many legends about how Samoa got its name.  One that comes up often is, that Moa was the family name of the Tui Manus, some of the earliest inhabitants of the islands.  SaMoa, simply refers to the family name.  At one time they controlled a Pacific empire, extending over Tonga, Fiji, the Cook Islands, and more.  The independent state of Samoa was formerly known as Western Samoa.

Where is Samoa located?

Samoa is located south of the equator, in the Polynesian region of the Pacific Ocean, about halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand.  The Polynesian group of nine islands, consists of two main islands, Upolu and Savaii, which makes up 99% of the land, and seven smaller islets.

Samoa is a land of many natural wonders including:  rain forests, waterfalls, beautiful white sand beaches and intricate caves.  The Samoan people are very proud of their incredible nature and have taken important steps to protect it.  The majority of endemic species there are birds.  The tooth billed pigeon is the national bird and has no close living relatives, but is genetically similar to the extinct dodo bird.

The warm seawater is filled with marine life including dolphins and whales, as they migrate through the region.  Turtles are often spotted there as well.  Diving and snorkeling are excellent in the crystal clear, Samoan water.

A Brief History of Samoa

The Polynesian ancestors were guided by the stars as they rowed in their sea-faring canoes across the Pacific Ocean thousands of years ago.  Samoa’s oldest known site of human inhabitation is Mulifanua, on the island of Upulo, some 3000 years ago, around 1000 BC.

Over the early years, the Samoan people engaged in battles, trade and intermarriage of nobility with the neighboring islands of Fiji and Tonga.  The interweaving of the cultures and bloodlines have strengthened the ties between these South Pacific islands.

Dutchman, Jacob Roggeveen, was the first European to site the islands in 1722.  European whalers and traders started to arrive in the late 1700s.  By far, the most important change in Samoa was due to the western missionaries.  They, along with the arrival of Reverend John Williams in 1830, converted the people from their belief in multiple gods for the sun, earth, heavens and sea, to one God. 

Samoans are now a devoutly religious people with much time given to church activities.  In nearly all of the villages they have a daily prayer curfew between 6-7 pm.  It is called “Sa” and lasts for about 20-30 minutes, often marked at the beginning and end by a bell ring or the blowing of a conch shell.  For many Samoans, Christianity and fa’a Samoa (Samoan way of life) are inextricably woven.

In 1899, after years of civil war, the islands of the Samoan archipelago were divided.  The Germans took the islands to the west and the Americans took the islands to the east, now known as American Samoa.

After the beginning of World War I, New Zealand captured Western Samoa from the small German company that was stationed there.  After the war, New Zealand took administrative control on behalf of the United Nations from 1918 until they gained their independence, in 1962.  Western Samoa became the first Pacific island to gain independence.  It was in 1997 when Western Samoa dropped the Western from its name and was called simply, Samoa.  They celebrate Independence, June 1^st-3^rd, each year.

Samoan Culture

The vast majority of Samoans possess Polynesian heritage, with about 93% identifying themselves as ethnically Samoan.  Euronesians account for about 7%.  This is a mix between European and Polynesian ancestry.  Most of the population speaks Samoan, a language closely related to Maori and Tongan languages.  It is believed to be among the oldest of the Polynesian dialects.  There are two official languages in Samoa, Samoan and English.  English is used mostly for business communications.

The term fa’a Samoa means the Samoan way and refers to a complex cultural code that guides and teaches individuals how to lead their life.  It is governed by protocols and etiquette, all in accordance with core values within fa’a Samoa.  These values include family, language, the environment, genealogy, the arts (including tattooing,) as well as political and social structures.  The Christian values brought to the islands were fully integrated into fa’a Samoan life.

Fa’a Samoa has three key elements to it.  The matai (chiefs), aiga (extended family), and the church.  Matai are the heads of the extended family unit and their role is very complex; covering family, civic and political duties in the village.  There are 362 nu’u (villages) found throughout the islands, with a total of 18,000 matai.

The aiga, or extended family, is made up of parents, brother, sisters, children and grandparents, cousins, nieces and nephews living within the village.  When family members marry partners in other villages, the in-laws become part of the extended family unit.  It is the duty of a Samoan to be of service to their aiga for life.

Tatua (tattoo) is a traditional art form that represents the spiritual and cultural heritage of Samoa.  It is seen as a rite of passage for men where the intricate pattern of the pe’a covers the body from the waist to the knees.   Master tattooists use traditional handmade tools made from bone, tusk, shark teeth, shell and wood.  Women also get tattoos, called malu, but they cover only the thighs.

Siapo (tapa) is used traditionally as clothing and is an important part of traditional ceremonies.  This printed cloth is made from the inner bark of the mulberry tree and makes a wonderful souvenir.  Weaving toga (a fine mat) is another art form and one mat can take years to make as it is woven from very fine fibers of the pandanus plant.  Everyday items such as baskets and mats are woven with palm fronds.

Dance and music are also very important parts of Samoan culture.  Often these two elements are showcased in a fiafia night which includes a feast followed by a show of music and dance.  Storytelling, or siva is performed by young women, while the fast actions of the fa’ataupati or slap dance is performed by men.  This dance ends with siva afi or the fire knife dance, which is performed by young men twirling a large knife with burning flames at both ends, set to the rhythmic beat of a wooden drum.

Samoan Cuisine

Each day you will find young men paddling their canoes out in the lagoon to catch fish, while others go to the plantations to cultivate and harvest what is needed for their daily meals.  The ocean provides crayfish, snapper, mahi-mahi, octopus and tuna.  There is always a fresh catch of the day.  The plantations provide bananas, taro, tropical fruits and vegetables and of course, coconut.

Samoans traditional food is cooked in an uma (an earth oven of hot stones) which is placed on what is called fale, a stand that holds the uma.   Oil is not typically used.  Fish is wrapped in a banana leaf with freshly made coconut cream poured on top.   Pork and chicken are also popular proteins and are often cooked whole. 

Taro and green bananas are tucked into the gaps.  When the food is placed on the hot coals, banana leaves are placed over the food to seal in the heat.  The food takes a while to cook; usually about 2 hours and it is not uncommon to cook meals in this way, three times per day.  A couple of delicacies include palusami (young taro leaves cooked in coconut cream)  and oka I’a (raw fish in coconut cream).

So let’s enjoy a Samoan meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Oka I’a (Raw Fish Salad)

Pani Popo (Coconut Rolls)

Main Course

Moa Fa’Asaina (Chicken Samoan Style)

Served with:

Alaisa Fa’Apopo (Coconut Rice)

Dessert

Poi  (Banana Pudding)

We set the scene with siapo, the printed tapa cloth, the traditional cloth made in Samoa.  We placed the a copy of the book called Treasure Island, written by the beloved Robert Louis Stevenson, who spent the last five years of his life with his family  there before his early death.  He was known to the Samoans as Tusitala or the “Teller of Tales.”  

His homestead is now a museum and the most popular attraction in Samoa.  He is buried at the top of Mt. Vaea, which has the best views overlooking the city and bay.  We completed the scene with a photo of the rare national bird, the tooth billed pigeon, and the national flower, the red ginger, along with a coconut and some bananas.

Our first course was oka I’a, a raw fish salad that is popular on many of the Polynesian islands.  Similar to a Latin ceviche, the fish is first marinated in lemon or lime juice until the fish turns opaque.  The fish is then mixed with vegetables, like cucumber and tomato, and  doused with coconut milk.  I really love ceviche and oka I’a was no exception!

The oka I’a was served alongside the famous pani popo or coconut rolls that really were to die for.  The rolls are sweet and to be honest, I could have eaten the whole pan. They are that good.  (Consider it fair warning, if you decide to make them.)

For the main course, we prepared a Samoan style chicken that was cooked in a Dutch oven, which came as close as possible to an uma.  The chicken was cooked with a dark soy sauce, onions and vinegar, which resulted in deliciously tender bites, full of flavor.  It was served over steamed, coconut rice.  It was a perfect combination.

For dessert, we had a mashed, banana dessert called poi.  Samoan poi is not the same poi that is popular in Hawaii; theirs is made from taro stem.  This poi is more like a banana pudding and was the perfect sweet and creamy end to our Samoan meal.

Now if we were in Samoa for the meal, we likely would partake in kava or ava as they call it there.  A drink that is popular for celebrations and ceremonies and comes from the roots of a small shrub.  It’s considered non-alcoholic but psychoactive.

As we say goodbye to this little Island paradise in the South Pacific, I leave with a few words written by an English poet, Rupert Brooke, on a trip to Samoa in the 1800s.

“You lie on a mat in a cool Samoan hut and look out on the white sand under the high palms and gentle sea, and the black line of the reef a mile out and moonlight over everything.   And then among it all are the loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like gods and goddesses.  It is sheer beauty, so pure it is difficult to breathe in it.”

“Tofa”  pronounced toh-far in Samoan means “Goodbye.”

Until next time,

Darlene

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

My husband and I arranged to take a cooking class in the Cambodia countryside at a place called the Khmer Root Café.  The cooking class sent a tuk-tuk driver to pick us up at our hotel in the town of Kampot.  This is a very common form of transportation in Cambodia.  It is a motor cycle/scooter with a small goose neck and a covered carriage attached that seats four people; two facing forward and two facing backward.  Although everyone seems to call them a tuk-tuk, the real Cambodian name is “remork.”

On the way, we picked up another family who was from France and also part of the class. There were five of them, so Mary and her husband, joined us in our tuk-tuk.  Mary is a chef and on a three-month trip around Asia with her husband, after spending a year in New Zealand.  His parents and a friend are visiting them while they are here in Cambodia, got their own separate tuk-tuk.

We traveled along red, dirt roads, filled with rice fields, passing small villages along the way.  This was the country side that I had dreamt of seeing in Cambodia. The rice fields were golden and ready for harvest. Children were playing along the fields and greeted us with huge smiles and a hello as we passed by.  This is the simple life.  People doing what they need to do to get by, to put food on the table and to care for their family.

We arrived at the rural, open air, stick built, restaurant called the Khmer Root Café.  It had a thatched roof made of coconut tree fronds.  The view from the restaurant was, a large, idyllic man-made lake, built by the people for the Khmer rouge, so they would have fresh water for growing rice. It is called the Secret Lake.

The setting for this Khmer class met every expectation of total authenticity.  Locals walked by casually, with one lady leading a few water buffaloes that evidently did not like getting their picture taken.  I thought this one was going to charge at Dan while he was getting the photo. Do you see that look in its eye?

At the café, it was a family affair. The chef, Soklim, was a soft-spoken man who was fluent in English.  His mother, wife and daughters all helped with the preparation of the ingredients and gathering the necessary implements.  All the ingredients are home grown from their own garden, the meat is from their animals and the fish comes from the lake.  It brings a whole new meaning to farm to table.  There were large wooden rounds that were used as the cutting boards, and each had a knife and grater placed upon them.  It was an idyllic setting for a cooking class.

We were each able to choose two dishes to make from the menu, everything was an option, except for the Banana Blossom Salad, which wasn’t currently available.  Since there were seven of us cooking, we were able to see everything on the menu being made.  The result was an amazing display of wonderful Khmer cuisine.  The chef would take all the necessary time with each participant, to show us how to prepare and cook our dishes.

Each curry dish began with the same base, made of: lemongrass, Kafir lime leaves, garlic, galangal, turmeric and shallot.  Besides the fish amok, I also made the beef loklak, which is made with Cambodia’s famous Kampot pepper.  I now fully understand why it is considered the most delicious pepper in the world.  I think we all loved the loklak and beef salad the best but truly, every single dish was delicious and it was honestly hard to choose a favorite.  We were also surprised that although the dishes had a similar base, with just a few different ingredients, every dish had its own unique and wonderful flavor.  Here is a list of all the dishes that were made:

The chef’s young daughters were happy every time we ordered a beer because Angkor (the most popular beer in Cambodia) is running a promotion, that if the pull-top has a certain symbol on it, you win a free beer. The girls were very keen to this and had a blast checking to see if they had found the special symbol.  This game brought them great joy.

When it became clear that we had made way more food than necessary for the seven of us to eat, we shared with the entire family, for which they were most grateful.  We had a lovely meal conversing with the family and our new found, cooking friends. Mary’s husband’s parents were so adorable and have a vacation home in Senegal, which they invited us to visit.   We certainly hope to one day.  We had a blast with all of them and truly hope our paths will cross again.

We said our heartfelt goodbyes to the chef and his family and left knowing we now have a memory and recipes that will last a lifetime.  A cooking class is one of my absolute favorite ways to get to know a country, its cuisine and especially the people.  This was no exception.

After the cooking class, we stopped for a tour of La Plantation; a place where they grow the famous Kampot pepper.  We learned all about the different processes used on the organic farm and also had a pepper tasting.  Honestly, this pepper deserves all the rave reviews about it being the best pepper in the world.  In fact, I fell in love with it so much, the owner of La Plantation invited us to become a distributor for the pepper on the west coast of the USA.  So perhaps we can look forward to the opportunity to distribute this amazing pepper in the coming months.

I leave you with the delicious Beef Salad recipe that was a favorite at the cooking class.  It is really quick and easy to make and absolutely delightful. Simply click on the link or picture for the recipe.

Beef Salat (Raw Beef Salad with Peanuts)

I hope you are following our journey on Instagram @Internationalcuisine where I am posting daily stories and pictures.

Until next time,

Jol Muoy (Cheers in Khmer)

Darlene

The name Norway comes from the old Norse words, “nordr” and “vegr.” The words mean, “way to the north” or “northern way;” because of its very northern location.  In fact, it is the most northern country in all of Europe. Today, the Norwegians have two official names, “Noreg” in Nynorsk and “Norge” in Bokmål.  Norge is used most often.

Norway is a Scandinavian country and shares a long, land border which includes the Scandinavian mountains with Sweden.  It also has a border with Finland and Russia, to the north.  The Skagarrak Strait, lies between them and Denmark is to the south.  Norway has an extensive coastline on the west, along the North Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea.

Norway is run as a constitutional monarchy.  The current King is Harald V.  Norway was ruled by Denmark for some 400 years and was also part of Sweden.  They have, in essence, two independence days; one, when they gained independence from Denmark, in 1814 (however it was for a very brief period of time) then, they were given to Sweden by the victors of the Napoleonic war and finally regained their independence on June 7^th, 1905.

During World War II, Norway was invaded and occupied by Germany.  Norway was one of the signers of the North Atlantic Treaty in 1949 and was a founding member of the United Nations. The first UN General Secretary, Trygve Lie, was a Norwegian.  Norway is not part of the European Union, although it has been voted on a few times.  Their currency is called the Norwegian kroner.

Most of Norway’s population are Norwegians; a Germanic ethnic group, plus Sami, which makes up 94 percent of the population.  The rest are immigrants from other countries. especially European.  Oslo is the capital city, known for its beautiful green areas.  It is the most populous city in Norway.  It was founded back in 1040 as a trading place.  It is usually rated as one of the best places to live, in terms of quality of life, despite the high cost of living.  The official languages are Bokmal and Nynorsk Norwegian, but Sami, and Kven are also spoken.  English is taught as a second language.  The religion of Norway is mostly the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Norway with nearly 80 percent of the population making it their affiliation.  However, only about ten percent attend services on a regular basis.  The rest are a mix of religions, with Catholicism being second.

Norway is one of the few countries in the world with fjords – long narrow inlets in the coastline, with deep sides or cliffs, formed by glaciers, millions of years ago.  In fact, two of them are UNESCO natural world heritage sites; the spectacular West Norwegian Fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord.  Norway’s coastline is estimated to be 18,000 miles when you count the 1,190 fjords or 1600 miles if you don’t.  The Vikings (who ruled the country during the Viking Age between 800 and 1066 AD) built boats to navigate these unique inlets. Almost all of Norway is high ground. They have a wonderful road system and have the longest tunnel in the world, the Lærdal Tunnel, which is 15.2 miles long.  There are many beautiful bridges over deep fjords, as well as a major ferry service and numerous tunnels under the mountains.

Two-thirds of the country is tundra, rock or snowfields, and one-quarter is forested, as a result, good agricultural land is hard to come by.  Less than three percent of Norway is cultivated, and those areas are in the southeast and in the river valleys. The mountains of Norway are rich in minerals and they have large offshore reserves of petroleum and natural gas. Norway ranks 15^th in the world in oil production and is the greatest reason for the countries enormous wealth.  They have the largest sovereign wealth fund in the world, worth just shy of one trillion dollars.  The lower price of fuel of late, has been a burden on their economy, and they made their first ever withdrawal from the wealth fund in 2016.

Although Norway is far north, the climate is not as cold as one might expect.  The North Atlantic Drift brings warm, damp, air to the whole country.  It is generally cooler inland and to the north, where winters are long and accompanied with much snow.  From late May to late July, the sun never completely dips beneath the horizon in areas north of the Arctic Circle. This is how Norway got its nickname, "The Land of the Midnight Sun."   The rest of the country experiences up to 20 hours of daylight per day.  It is just the opposite in winter, when from late November to late January, the sun never rises above the horizon in the north, and daylight hours are scarce in the rest of the country.

Norway is known as a spectacular place to see the “Aurora Borealis” or, “The Northern Lights.”  They say they are most active around the equinox in both fall and spring.  Of course, there are never guarantees to witness Mother Nature’s grand creation but your odds are pretty good between the hours of 9:00pm and 1:00am in the far north, when the sky is clear and dark.

The north is also home to the indigenous people called the Sami or Lapps.  They have lived in the Artic region for thousands of years.  About 50,000 to 65,000 call Norway home.  There, they keep their unique culture, language and traditions alive, including reindeer husbandry.

As we look into the cuisine of Norway, it is largely influenced by its coastal location.  Fish is the heart and soul of Norwegian cuisine.  They poach it, smoke it, grill it, fry it, salt it, dry cure it and boil it with a huge variety of seafood.  Smoked salmon is for what Norway is the most famous. They are the second largest exporter of seafood in the world, after China.  They even introduced the Japanese, to salmon that could be eaten raw for sushi and sashimi.  Fish soups, pickled herring and gravlax are all very popular dishes. The Norwegian population is among the healthiest in the world, as diet plays an important role.  Game meats like reindeer, goose and duck are also loved foods in the country.

Norway, despite its riches today, before 1905 had a rather substandard standard of living.  They only had a small number of ingredients to work with and porridge was often the only meal available and was eaten two to three times a day.  Since there was not much agricultural land, they had a hard time feeding the population.

Bread is usually dark and made of rye, as it grows easily in Norway.  These breads are often used to make open face sandwiches, called smorebrod.  They also have an interesting bread called lefse that is made of potato and is thin like a crepe.  This is often sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar and a favorite at Christmas time.

Dairy is also very important in Norway and they are huge milk drinkers.  The average Norwegian consumes 40 gallons of milk per year.  Jalsberg cheese is a big export item for them as well. State controlled, independent dairies, make a myriad of cheeses that are loved around the world.  Potatoes are the most popular vegetable and apples, rhubarb and berries are used in all sorts of delicious creations.  Dill and caraway, thyme and oregano are the favorite seasonings, as they grow wild.  Shredded horseradish is also a staple, as is mustard, especially on salmon.

So let us enjoy a Norwegian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Gravlax (Cured Salmon)

Salad

 Hvitkalsalat (Coleslaw)

Main Course

Krabbelag (Seafood Feast)

Dessert

Kvæfjordkake Verdens beste (World’s Best Cake)

We set the table in blue, red and white; the colors of their flag.  We placed elk antlers as the centerpiece, since the elk is a national symbol, (although they call it a moose.)  Purple heather was added, as it is the national flower, as well as a whale, home to their seas.  A reindeer cup represented the Sami population and reindeer herding, and an anchor, symbolizing their seafaring heritage.  A King’s crown and a penguin were also included, as there is a penguin, named Nils Olav III, who is a member of the King’s Guard and the only penguin in the world to be promoted to Brigadier.

We began our first course of gravlax; delicious salmon that had been salt and sugar cured in lemon zest and dill for several days.  The result was amazing, almost candy like, and was served with a mustard aioli alongside.  We enjoyed it with a toast “Skal” pronounced “Skawl” which means “cheers.”  We clinked our glasses with shot of Aquavit, a famous exported liquor made from potatoes and flavored with caraway seed or star anise.

For the main course, it was a seafood feast called Krabbalag.  All the seafood (lobster, crab, shrimp, mussels and clams) were boiled with potatoes and corn and flavored with thyme and dill.  Mayonnaise and drawn butter were accompaniments.  This meal is typically enjoyed in a rustic environment; outside with all the seafood dumped on the table covered with butcher paper, for everyone to grab a piece, crack it and savor.  I made this feast for my father’s 90^th birthday party, some 40 people and it was loved by all!  It was served with a coleslaw, made a few days ahead, marinated with sugar and vinegar, imparting it a lovely sweet and sour flavor.

For dessert, I just had to make the cake called, “The World’s Best.”  In Norwegian, it is called, Kvæfjordkake Verdens beste.  It was awesome!!!  Basically, it is a pound cake covered in meringue, similar to New Zealand’s pavlova.  It is then layered with cream and fruit.  I used bananas and strawberries, but you can use whatever fruit you like.  It was topped with toasted almonds; which, was, literally, the icing on the cake!  Best in the world, for sure!

As we say goodbye to Norway, I have to wonder what makes it the world’s happiest place?  Perhaps it is the free education, offered from elementary school through college, or 25 days of vacation paid leave per year, or a year’s paid maternity leave, or three months paternity paid leave, or free healthcare, or a generous pension and low unemployment?  I am sure these things factor in, however they do pay for these privileges, with high taxes.  It may also be all the outdoor activities Norway has to offer.  They are renowned for their winter sports, having hosted the Winter Olympics twice.  They also have fishing, kayaking, camping, hiking the list goes on and on.  They have a saying in Norway “There is no bad weather, just bad clothes.”

If you ask a Norwegian, they will likely tell you they find happiness in the way they help each other.  They have each other’s backs, and a true sense of community, which brings comfort and joy to all.

Perhaps I should spend some quality time in Norway, to help me truly figure it out!

Until next time,

“Hah  ehn gooh  dahg” (Have a good day”)

Darlene
 

Kiribati is pronounced, Kir-i-bas. Ti is spoken as an “s” and means Gilbert or Tungaru, as many of the islands that make up Kiribati used to be known as the Gilbert or Tungaru Islands. The other island groups are known as the Phoenix Islands and Line Islands. This nation of islands is made up of 32 coral atolls and one solitary island, called Banaba. (An atoll is a ring-shaped, coral reef including a coral rim that encircles a lagoon.) The entire square footage of all the islands combined is only 313 square miles. Yet Kiribati controls about 1,000,000 square miles in the Central Pacific Ocean for fishing and other rights. Of the 33 islands, only 21 are inhabited. The capital of Kiribati is Tarawa, an atoll in the Gilbert Islands. Kiribati is located on the equator and is the only nation on earth that is in all four hemispheres.

The largest atoll there and in the world is called Kiritimati, or Christmas Island, which is 235 square miles. The majority of all the atolls are barely above sea level. I distinctly remember seeing a sign when our Air Tungaru flight landed on Christmas Island that said, “Welcome to Christmas Island, Highest elevation five feet.” There is something a little unnerving about that. There was only one flight, in or out of Christmas Island per week, so our journey would last seven days, no matter what.

When I met my husband Dan, his number one hobby was fishing. Christmas Island is known to be one of the premier bonefish destinations in the world. Bonefish are also known as the “grey ghosts.” There is no affiliation to our beloved author Zane Grey, although he has written some wonderful tales about them. One rare, Zane Grey pamphlet worth collecting, is called, “The Bonefish Brigade”, which was sent to his friends as a Christmas gift. Zane Grey did have an affiliation with Christmas Island. His yacht, “The Fisherman” was sold to a Frenchman who owned several coconut groves there. Father Rogier converted “the Fisherman” to a freighter and used it to transport copra (dried coconut meat). The name was changed back to “Marshal Fuch”, the original name of the boat. Copra remains a very important revenue source for Kiribati.

Before we ventured to Christmas Island, I had to learn how to fly fish. That was how we would fish for the elusive bonefish. Needless to say, Dan made sure I was outfitted to the hilt. For you fishing enthusiasts, I had the first, Sage three fly rod ever built, along with a beautiful, Billy Pate fly reel. I was taught to fly fish by two of the best in the world; Lefty Krey and Mel Kreiger. I also learned how to tie flies, as we needed to bring a gross of Crazy Charlies with us (that is the name of the fly, used to catch them.) I tied all 144 of them myself. When we arrived on the island, our home would be the Captain Cook Hotel. The accommodations consisted of thatched roof bungalows right on the beach. I wondered why there were brooms placed all over, and it became clear, rather quickly. Christmas Island is home to the red, land crab. They are pretty good sized and all over the place. The brooms were there to shoo them out from under the bed or out of the shower. I remember one night when we were returning to the room for the evening, one was sprawled right across the handle of the door to the bungalow, and nearly gave us a heart attack. They were on the appetizer menu every evening and I can attest that they are mighty tasty.

I always felt terrible when the guide would drive us to our fishing destination and kill so many of those creatures as we drove along. They just could not be avoided. It is estimated that 40-50 million of these bright red, land crabs live in shady sites all over the island. It was also the time of the annual migration of these creatures. Today they are protected and several crossings and road closures are now in place during the migration.

Words cannot begin to express how beautiful a coral atoll is in the middle of the Pacific. It is the water that takes your breath away. We would fish on the flats, in crystal clear water, a little less than knee high. Just off the flats, you would be in deep water. The colors of the water would change based on the depth, from azure blue to aquamarine. It is simply stunning!

Let’s just say, in these parts, high and low tides are very important events with which to concern yourself. Some days we would drive to a location but had to return by making our way across a giant pipe, carrying our belongings above our heads to avoid getting them wet as the tide rose. Where you could walk on land in the morning was completely under water by the afternoon.

On this particular day, we were out fishing the flats with our two guides and nature called, (I had to use the restroom, which was nonexistent.) My husband suggested that I just go off the flat into the deep water. That day I was wearing some brightly colored, flowered pants. When I jumped off the flat, I got instantly circled by about six or seven black tip, reef sharks that must have thought I was a rare, new species. Needless to say, I freaked, yet somehow I managed to get myself back up on the flat. My urge to use the restroom had strangely vanished. Nothing happened to me, other than my nerves were a bit rattled and after that, even the tiny, foot long sharks that were all over the flats, began to startle me. A couple hours later, my urge to use the restroom returned. I espied an island about a quarter mile away and decided I would go there and find a tree or bush. I don’t know if you have ever seen the movie “The Birds” by Alfred Hitchcock? As I approached the island, birds starting dive bombing me and hovering inches from my face. I had to use my fly rod to defend myself and all I heard from a quarter mile away was “Don’t use the fly rod.” I guess the fly rod was more valuable than I thought. It turns out this little island was a nesting colony for sooty terns and they were simply protecting their nests. Thankfully, I didn’t die by birds! It is no coincidence that Christmas Island is also a great destination for bird watchers.

The next day, we took a break from the bone fishing and went out on the only boat suitable to fish the blue waters. It is no exaggeration to say the waters provided a literal smorgasbord of fish. Our day began with us almost immediately catching a tuna. The captain insisted that we keep the fish we caught, which was not our normal practice. (We almost always catch and release.) The boat was quite expensive to rent and we figured he probably wanted the fish to take care of the locals on the island. We had a blast catching tuna and then said “what else do you have in these waters?” About ten minutes later, we arrived at the wahoo, or ono, fishing isle. These are super fun fish to catch. The only problem was our captain only had silver swivels. The wahoo kept stealing away the lures by the swivel since the shininess of the silver attracts them. We still caught many ono, despite that dilemma, until we had our fill. (My husband sent the captain a whole bunch of black swivels after we returned home.)

Next, we were on our way to fish for giant trevally. On our way there, we were trolling and something very large latched on to our lure down and darted straight out. (This was on a Penn International, 50 wide reel, with about 850 yards of 80lb test line.) Despite the captain backing down the boat as fast as he could, the fish, which we assume was a giant tuna, managed to spool the entire reel and when it got to the end, it sounded like a magnum pistol went off as it snapped the line. We will always wonder how big that fish was. Suffice it to say, we had never experienced anything like it.

Our destination for trevally fishing was near the shoreline and dotted with huge, underwater rocks. This is home to the giant trevally and by far the most fun fishing we had. You would throw the line out as far as you could, (it was a pencil popper on a spinning outfit, with light line) and you could see the huge fish come out from the rocks in the crystal clear water and slam that lure. We blew out the drag on every spinner we had, and ended up hand lining like the locals do. This was a day of fishing we will never forget and why Kiribati’s Christmas Island is one of the best fishing destinations in the world. Speaking of trevally, I actually caught a world record while I was there and didn’t even know it. I caught a small, blue trevally on a fly, which happened to be an open class in the record books for women.

The small populations of locals that live on the islands are Micronesian. Kiribati’s first inhabitants date back to 3000 BC. The islands became a protectorate of Great Britain in 1892. Kiribati gained independence in July of 1979 which also coincided with when phosphate being mined on the Island of Banaba, was depleted. I-Kiribati, is the official language, along with English. The majority religion is Christianity but many maintain their mythological beliefs of “anti” or “spirits.”

Several islands in northern and central Kiribati, were occupied by the Japanese in World War II. The Battle of Tarawa was one of the bloodiest battles of that war. Today, several war relics remain on the islands and in the sea where tourists can view them first hand. The famed author, Robert Louis Stevenson, spent two months on the Abemama Atoll back in 1889. This is where the tyrant, Chief Binoka, resided and was immortalized by Stevenson is his book, “In the South Seas”. Today Chief Binoka’s gravesite is a tourist attraction.

As one may imagine, not much grows on coral atolls. They only have about 2% arable land. Coconuts and pandanus trees are native, along with pumpkins, taro, breadfruit, banana, papaya and mango. Worms in the soil prevent much else from growing. The locals have a few raised bed gardens to grow their greens but water is also a precious commodity. Evidently the worms dry out and die before they can reach the plants in the raised beds. Most of the food supply is brought in by plane or ship. Their main source of revenue comes from copra, seaweed, tourism and fishing industries.

As we look into the cuisine of Kiribati, fish, shellfish and coconuts are central to the diet. The coconut produces a flower spathe from which (the sap) is made into a toddy. It is rich in vitamins and can also be soured into vinegar or fermented into an alcohol. Taro and pumpkin are regularly consumed and rice, considered a staple food, as well as canned meats and condiments are all actually imported. Some natives raise chickens and pigs to get their meat to cook with on festive occasions. On our final night on Christmas Island, we enjoyed a Micronesian feast of roast pork (the whole pig was cooked in an underground pit) poi and rice was served and accompanied with native music and dancing. The natives came in their authentic dress of bark cloth sarongs, decorated with an amazing assortment of shells and put on a wonderful show for us. We found the natives to be very kind, warm and welcoming.

So let’s enjoy a Kiribati meal:

The Menu
Appetizer
Crab Claws with Cocktail Sauce

Soup
Pumpkin Coconut Soup

Main Dish
Glazed Mahi Mahi with White Rice and Pineapple

Dessert
Samoan Poi (Mashed Bananas with Coconut Cream)

We decorated our table with several souvenirs from our trip to Christmas Island. A sarong was used as our centerpiece with sea shells to adorn it. Palm fronds, coconut and bananas rounded out the setting.

Our first course was in honor of the red crabs that were so unforgettable. It was a crab cocktail made with snow crab. The thick claw meat was succulent and served with a typical ketchup and horseradish, cocktail sauce. (We ate crab claws every night as an appetizer when we were there.)

Our second course was a pumpkin and coconut cream soup. This sweet and savory soup can be enjoyed either hot or cold. Both pumpkins and coconuts grow plentifully on the islands there.

For the main course, we presented a glazed mahi mahi. The glaze was made of teriyaki, sugar, ginger and sesame seeds. The thick glaze was delicious on this perfectly cooked, flaky mahi mahi. This glaze would be wonderful on nearly any kind of fish or even chicken, simply scrumptious. Mahi mahi is common in the region, although it is sometimes called Dorado, in other parts of the world, or the dolphin fish (but it has no relation to “Flipper”.) The fish was served with plain white rice and crushed pineapple. Delicious.

For dessert, Samoan poi was served. It is basically mashed bananas with coconut cream that somewhat resembles a smoothie. Samoan poi is a perfect dessert to enjoy on a tropical coral atoll or anywhere for that matter, but is particularly refreshing on a hot day.

As we say goodbye to Kiribati, it is important to note that this will be the first country to be completely destroyed by climate change. It is estimated it will be totally submerged, due to the rising sea level, by the end of this century. The government has purchased land in Tahiti and has asked for assistance from New Zealand and Australia to help with the inevitable migration. I feel blessed to have visited this beautiful country and if you like fishing or just want an adventure, it is guaranteed to be a trip of a lifetime. As we departed the island, we noticed that ice chest after ice chest was labeled for the fish market in Hawaii. It turns out all that fish we caught on the blue water boat was headed there. After giving it some thought, it made sense that they would rather have cash to buy something they need rather than consume the fish that is readily abundant to them. We were happy for them.

PS I really am curious if you had ever heard of this country called Kiribati before?  Please let me know in the comments section below and thanks for being part of the journey!

Until next week,
Ti a boo (that means goodbye in Kiribati)
Warmest regards,
Darlene