Finding solace in the winter solstice. During the holiday season it is easy to get lost in the hustle and bustle, worrying about spending money, getting the right gift for loved ones, how much to decorate, which party to attend, what to bake, the list goes on and on. There has also been so much tragedy in the news lately, with wildfires that have destroyed whole towns and more mass shootings, which takes its toll on the spirit of the holidays. One of our dearest friends, who has since passed, by the name of Dr. Charles Pfeiffer, would send out a winter solstice letter each year. I miss them as they were always a beautiful reminder of the commonality we share as humans. No matter what beliefs you hold, the fact remains that the winter solstice will occur in the northern hemisphere this year on December 21 at 5:23 PM EST. It will be the summer solstice at the same time in the southern hemisphere. The solstice occurs each year between December 20th and December 23rd as it has throughout time.

The solstice gets its name from “sol” meaning the sun and “sistere” meaning to stand still. In the northern hemisphere, it is the longest night of the year. The winter solstice has been celebrated all the way back to ancient times, all over the world. The ancient Egyptians believed it was the rebirth of the sun. In ancient Rome it was called, “Dies Natalis Invicti Solis”, or the birthday of the unconquered sun. This was a time when grudges and quarrels were forgotten, wars were interrupted or postponed and where masters celebrated as equals with their slaves. Iranian families kept fires burning all night to assist in the battle between the light and dark forces. The Soyal, a winter solstice ceremony of the Zuni and Hopi Indians, also known as the peaceful ones, is a celebration for purification and the beginning of the ritual of the Kachina season. Kachina is the presence of life in all objects that fill the universe and the spirits come to visit during this time. The ancient Celts celebrated the winter solstice with the festival of “Alban Arthuan”, a fire festival which translated means, the Light of Arthur. This celebration was also known as “yule” and is the birthplace for many of our Christmas traditions.

As the holiday season is upon us I thought I would share some ideas to take a break and embrace the early nightfall of the winter solstice. Take a moment to become quiet and introspective. It is in fact a beautiful time to cultivate a deeper connection to nature, family and all the things that matter most; feed the spirit and nurture the soul.

Here are some ideas:

• Make a real yule log: A log that is decorated with feathers, holly, mistletoe and pine needles and is meant to be burnt over the longest night of the year. Save a few ashes from that special log in a satchel for good luck and safety from storms.
• Stuff pine cones with your wishes, written on little pieces of paper and tucked under the scales, then they can be used as kindling for the yule log.

• Take a nature hike, with a journal, and a thermos of good soup to warm your soul. Take a moment to reflect on your life and set your intentions for the coming year.
• Mediate and do some yoga, perhaps a sun salute or mountain pose.
• Make a yule log cake. This tradition supposedly began in France when Napoleon would not allow people to burn in their fireplaces because he was concerned about disease being spread. So the French answered with a beautiful cake made to look like a log, called Buche de Noel.

Yule Log Cake

• Commit to one day of no electronics.
• Have dinner by candlelight.
• Make solstice Wassail; a hot ale with cinnamon and cloves.

Winter Solstice Wassail

Whatever you choose, I hope you will stop and take in the moment. Feel the connection of all humanity, knowing that we are all in this together. Know that you can face darkness with grace and faith, because no matter how dark a day, the sun always returns.

Happy solstice and happy holidays,
Darlene

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How did Qatar get its name?

The origin of the name Qatar is uncertain.  However, it dates back at least 2000 years.  A term catharrei, was used by Pliny the Elder, in the 1^st century AD to describe the inhabitants of the peninsula.  The Catara peninsula was depicted on a map by Ptolemy, in the 2^nd century AD.  The Capital City of Doha may have gotten its name from the Arabic word Ad-Dawha, meaning “the big tree”; a reference to the prominent tree that stood at the site of the original fishing village.

Where is Qatar located?

The small peninsula jets out about 525 feet north into the Persian Gulf from the Arabian Peninsula, making it a sub peninsula.  Qatar has a small land border with Saudi Arabia to the southwest and they share maritime borders with the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Iran.  Its northwest coast lies just thirty kilometers, or 19 miles from Bahrain.

Qatar is generally a barren land.  It has a dry, subtropical, desert climate, with low annual rainfall and blistering hot and humid summers.   Much of the country consists of sand dunes and salt flats, with only scattered vegetation.  There is a small range of hills in the northwest, the highest point reaching just 328 feet.  The coastline has a number of beautiful sandy beaches, the best of which lie in the north and west.  Due to the topography, Qatar is susceptible to intense sand storms.

A Brief History of Qatar

Qatar has been occupied by humans for at least 50,000 years.  Stone Age encampments and tools have been unearthed on the small sub peninsula.  It fell under the domain of numerous empires during its early years of settlement.  In 628 AD the population was introduced to Islam.  By the 8^th century it became a pearl trading center.

In 1783, Arab tribes conquered Bahrain and the Al Khalifa imposed their authority over both Bahrain and Qatar.  After a war broke out, the British installed the religious ruler, Muhammad ibn Thani-al-Thani, the head of a leading Qatari family.  In 1893, the Ottomans who expanded their Empire into the area, made incursions into Qatar.  They withdrew from the area after the beginning of World War I, in 1913.

In 1916, Qatar became a British Protectorate and Abdullah Al Thani was put into power.  The Al-Thani family has been in control of Qatar ever since.  The country is run as a constitutional monarchy.  It gained independence from Britain on September 3, 1971.  Oil was discovered in the 1940s, bringing great wealth to the country.  Oil and gas make up 85% of the GDP.  Today Qatar is one of the richest nations on earth, based on per capita GDP.  There are no taxes in Qatar and the people get free health care, education (including higher education) and a corporate tax rate of 10% as a flat tax.  Women were allowed to vote in 1999, at the same time as men.  It wasn’t until 2003 that it was put into the constitution.  Qatari women make up about ½ of the labor force, which is above the world average and among the highest in the Arab world.

In 2003, Qatar became the nerve center in the US-led military campaign in Iraq.  In 2010 Qatar won the bid to host the 2022 Fifa World Cup.  They are spending billions of dollars to get ready for it, with new hotels, buildings and infrastructure.

In recent times, there has been a diplomatic crisis due to its neighbors Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, as well as the UAE and Egypt, which have imposed an air, land and sea blockade.  They are hoping Qatar will cut its alleged connections with terrorism and distance itself from Iran.  Qatar which is known to have the best airline in the world, has to avoid these air spaces in its flight patterns.

Qatar Culture

Qatar has about 2.6 million inhabitants.  However, foreign workers, mainly from India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan and the Philippines make up 88% of the population.  Qatari nationals make up the other 12% of the population.  Its culture can be traced back to three main influences: the desert, the sea and Islam.  The desert, Bedouin culture is intrinsic to Qatari identity.  Arabic is the official language, although English is widely spoken as well.

The Arabian Peninsula is one of the last places in the world where falconry is still actively practiced.  In fact, this 5000 year old tradition was introduced by the Bedouin as an effective means of hunting.  Today the practice is a national heritage and passed down from generation to generation.  In the famous Souq Waquif there is a falcon hospital where falcons can be bought and sold for thousands of dollars.  Some birds are even issued their own passports to prevent them from being taken out of the country illegally.

Camel racing is known as the “sport of sheikhs” and is big business in Qatar, with races held on nearly every Friday.  Today the riders are robotic jockeys and some of their best camels can cost more than luxury cars.

Poetry and storytelling remains an integral part of the Bedouin culture.  Nabati poems, which are a source of local tribal pride, are regularly broadcast on Qatari TV and radio as part of their cultural heritage.  By the way, Qatar is home to Al Jazeera, a very popular news station, worldwide.

Qataris are very proud of their maritime traditions, which are based around pearl diving, fishing and boat making.  Their folk music lyrics are closely associated with the sea, describing pearl diving, the hoisting of sails and rowing.  These folk songs are normally sung together, as the traditional sailors would have sung them.  Each year there is a dhow festival that celebrates not only the boats but all aspects of the old sailors.

It is Islam, however, where most of the cultural traditions are found.  Traditional dress for example requires modesty by both males and females in the public realm.  The thobe, is a long white robe typically worn by men, along with a head covering, known as the gutra, which is held in place by a black rope called an agal.  Women wear a black robe called an abaya and a head covering called a shayla.

The Islamic month of Ramadan is widely revered in Qatar.  Fasting is required during daylight hours, so all the restaurants are closed during the day.  About 67% of the population of Qatar are Sunni Muslims with a few Shiites as well.  Islamic instruction is compulsory of Muslims in all state-sponsored schools.  Despite Islam being the state religion in Qatar, they do have freedom of association in their constitution.  Both Muslims and non-Muslims are tried under the unified court system which incorporates both secular law and Sharia law.  The Islamic holy days of Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are national holidays.

Why Visit Qatar?

Doha, the capital city, is the highlight of this quickly growing nation.  It is home to a spectacular modern skyline, one of the best Museums of Islamic Art in the world, plus a fine traditional souq with a burgeoning arts and culinary scene.  Being one of the richest nations on earth, here you can find the finest of everything.

As Qatar prepares to host the FIFA 2022 world cup, they are building at a stunning rate, adding new parks, buildings, high speed rail and gigantic stadiums.  Watching the sunset over the sand dunes will make you feel as though your Arabian fairy tales have come true.  Whether you are sand dune bashing or sleeping out in the dessert with camels, experiencing an authentic Bedouin meal along with traditional music is a dream come true, and you can find it all in Qatar.

They also have a stunning waterfront promenade called the Corniche, which lies on the Doha Bay in an elegant crescent shape.  The Corniche is a beautiful place to walk and see their famous dhow boats.  The Qatari people pride themselves on their Arabian hospitality.

Qatari Cuisine

Qatar has very little arable land, so most all of their food must be imported.  The sea provides for locally caught fish, which is always plentiful and is prominent in their cuisine.  As the country has become world class, nearly every conceivable type of cuisine can be found there.  However, they pride themselves on keeping the local traditions and foods alive.  The cuisine is heavily influenced by the cultures of the peninsula, as well as India, Iran, the Levant and North Africa.

Machbus is considered to be the national dish, as it is for its neighbor, Bahrain.  Machbus can be made with chicken, seafood, or meat.  Mutton served with yogurt is another staple, as is ghuzi, in which a whole roasted lamb is served on a bed of rice and nuts.  Goat and sheep are also very popular meats in the cuisine.  Dates are grown locally and are often served with a cup of Kazak tea or coffee as a means of showing their hospitality.  Pork and alcohol are forbidden in Qatar, unless served in an international hotel. The best places to experience an authentic Qatari meal are in Souq Waqif or Katara.

So let’s enjoy a Qatari meal:

The Menu

Starter

Warak Enab (Stuffed Grape Leaves)

Main Course

Harees (Beaten Wheat and Chicken)

Khubz Arabi (Arabian Bread)

Dessert

Esh Asaraya (Sweet Bread with Cream)

Served with Karak Tea (Spiced Tea with Milk)

We set our table with a small carpet, placed on the floor, with cushions.  It is customary to sit on the floor in a cross legged position to eat a traditional Qatari meal and to use only the right hand.  It is believed that eating in this sitting position, aids digestion, and the movement of reaching for the food and going back to a straight posture, helps with arthritis.

We decorated with a statue of an oryx, their national animal that lives in the desert there.  A picture of a falcon  was placed to signify their national bird.  Dates were added, as they are the national fruit, along with pearls to represent their pearl diving heritage and a little can of oil, to symbolize their great wealth.

Our first course was stuffed grape leaf bundles, filled with sweet, lamb meat, herbs and spices.  With one bite we were immediately transported to the region.  Stuffed grape leaves are a loved tradition in many of the countries surrounding Qatar.

For the main course, we had harees, which is a hearty, beaten wheat and chicken dish, quite similar to the dish we had for Oman, called madrouba, (which was a beaten rice and chicken dish.)  The harees are seasoned with ghee and toasted coriander.  It is a true comfort food and each heavenly bite was scooped up with the Khubz Arabi (Arabian bread).

For dessert we enjoyed the sweet bread and cream dish called esh asaraya.  It was topped with pistachios and was a lovely, sweet end to our Qatari meal.  We enjoyed our dessert with their Karak tea; milk tea with a hint of cardamom; a true delight.  Coffee and tea are always served to guests in Qatar and when you are finished, you simply shake you cup from side to side to let the hostess know you are satisfied.

As we say goodbye to this little nation of Qatar, I leave you with a quote from their tourism board.

Qatar

“A land that understands, a traveler can never be a stranger, just a friend not yet met.  That ultimately everyone is on their own journey, seeking the warmth of a friendly embrace, unique experiences, new stories to share.  Where a meal is not a meal unless it is shared.  A land rooted in ancient cultures, authentic soul, where past learning informs contemporary vision.  Progressive spirit ignites new futures.  A land offering enlightenment, invigoration and inspiration through its warmth of soul and spirit of vision.”

Until next time,

Shukran (That’s “thank you”, in Arabic)

Darlene

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How did Portugal get its name?

Where is Portugal located?

Portugal is located in the western most point of Europe and lies on the west coast of the Iberian Peninsula.  It shares its northern and eastern borders with Spain, the only bordering country.  The Atlantic Ocean lies to the west and south, providing a stunning coastline loved by locals and tourists alike.  Portugal is divided by the Tagus River, which separates the rugged north from the rolling plains of the south.  The landscape in the north contains the mountains of the Iberian Peninsula.  The country of Portugal also includes the nine islands of the Azores, and two islands, well off its coast, named Madeira and Porto Santo that was once a home of Columbus.

A Brief History of Portugal

It is said that Lisbon is one of the oldest European capitals, founded 400 years before the Roman era.  It was inhabited by Celtic and other tribes as well as Phoenicians-Carthaginians, along the coast.  The Romans took over the area, known as Lusitania which is why speakers of Portuguese today are known as Lusophones.

The Romans began to occupy the area in 140 BC and made it famous for mining and agriculture, especially for the production of sweet wine.  The name Lusitania comes from the Roman god, Lusus, son of Bacchus, who was the god of wine.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, a Germanic tribe took over the Iberian Peninsula and established the church in their kingdom.  The church remains an important part of Portuguese culture.  The peninsula was later invaded and occupied by the  Arab Moors for more than 800 years.  After the partial Reconquista, Portugal finally became a kingdom, independent of Spain, in 1279.  The borders that were established then still remain the same today.

During the Imperial Era from 1279 until 1578, Portugal made many discoveries through its strong naval power and established colonies all over the world.  Brazil was one but also Mozambique and Angola in Africa, along with many others on several different continents.  Portugal became a world power and one of the most important empires of the time, with Spain being one of Portugal’s biggest rivals.

After the death of King Sebastian I, the empire went into decline.  Portugal then engaged in numerous European wars, including the Restoration war which resulted in fending off of the Spanish King who was trying to take over Portugal.  In 1755, Portugal lost much of its wealth with the destruction of Lisbon by a powerful earthquake.

Portugal had a good relationship with the British Empire and when Portugal refused to give in to Napoleon, which resulted in military attacks, the British helped Portugal restore their independence in 1812.  There were many problems that arose until 1910, when the First Portuguese Republic was established which brought about the King’s resignation. The republic was ended in 1926 in a coup d’etat that resulted in a military dictatorship.

In 1933, there was a second revolution called the New State, established by Salazar.  His motto was, “Proudly Alone.”  His belief in nationalism and isolation saved Portugal from taking part in both World Wars.  Salazar always tried to maintain Portugal’s colonies under his rule and many Portuguese had to fight in those colonial wars.  This eventually led to the end of his dictatorship on April 25, 1974, when a peaceful military coup d’etat took place.

Portugal was then led into democracy (which remains in effect today) when elections took place, in 1975.  They became part of the EU with the guidance of Portugal’s most popular politician who became Prime Minister of Portugal. His name was Jose Barroso. Portugal has become a diversified and increasingly service-based economy since joining the EU.  Its last colonial hold was Macau, which was given back to China in 1999.

Portuguese Culture

There was a strong influence from the country’s geography, its history and its culture.  The cultural heritage stems from the people, having been part of its colonies in Africa, South America and Asia, and its tribal history.  Many more cultural influences come from being a global empire in the 15^th and 16^th centuries.

Portugal is famous for their exquisite, hand painted tiles.  They are used to adorn interiors and exteriors of houses, churches, palaces and other buildings. Originally of Muslim origin, the production of tiles began in the 15^th century but reached its peak in the 18^th century, with their famous blue and white tiles.  The train station in Porto tells the story of the city in grand style, with the use of these tiles.

Portugal is also known for the introduction of Manueline Architecture, a style that featured elements inspired by the sea and by symbols of Royal power, such as armillary spheres, which is the national symbol featured on their flag.  The Jeronimos Monastery and The Belem Tower are good examples of this architectural style but Manueline style buildings and features can be found all over the country.  Baroque and Romanesque styles also abound.

Fado is a type of music that has was named by the World Heritage as part of Intangibles. The history of Fado dates back to the 1820’s and 30’s however some believe it may have much earlier origins.  It is a form of song that is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics.  The Portuguese word saudade which means longing, symbolizing a feeling of loss.  Fado performers were typically sailors, bohemians and courtesans who not only sang but also danced.  Today, it is performed as just song, without the dance.  In recent years, Amalia Rodrigues, known as the “Queen of Fado,” is credited with making Fado popular throughout the world.  Taking in Fado is very popular with tourists, especially in Lisbon, and why not?  It is an important part of Portugal’s culture.

Portugal has no official religion, as the church and state were formally separated during the Portuguese First Republic in 1910.  However nearly 81% of the population is Catholic and important traditions have a significant bearing in Portuguese society and culture. The official language is Portuguese, considered a Romance Language. A direct descendant of Latin, however many speak English, French and Spanish as well.

Why Visit Portugal?

The country itself, with its long coastline and most of the cities and population living along it, make Portugal one of the prettiest countries in the world.  Each city and village has immense history as it is considered to be the oldest in all of Europe. Lisbon. the capital, has become a vibrant modern city, and to deal with its extremely hilly street levels, has installed elevators downtown to transport people up and down some 45 meters.  The lifts are disguised inside buildings on the low end of the city, so it is good to learn where to find them.

The architecture and signature black and white tiles and cobble stones, that line the streets make it picture perfect.  It is home to 15 UNESCO World Heritage sites.  One of them is the oldest, continuously operated, University in the world, established in 1290.  In Lisbon, you can find the oldest operating bookstore in the world.  Bertrand Bookshop, was established in 1732.  It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755 but has been in its current location since 1773.

Portugal is also known for exceptional surfing with 364 days of surfing each year.  Home to the largest wave ever surfed, it was an incredible 80 feet high.  Portugal is also the largest cork producer in the world, supplying nearly 70% of the world’s cork.  Needless to say, they are not happy with the screw on caps that have recently become popular for wine.  They are innovative however, making cork into belts, purses, shoes and the like.  There is a beautiful monastery near the town of Sintra that is made from cork.  The whole town of Sintra is a UNESCO site and simply like a fairytale that should not be missed on a trip to Portugal. It is filled with castles, palaces, churches and parks that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

Did I mention the wine, famous for Port and Madeira, as well as Vinho Verde, my personal favorite?  You will also find bottles of ginja, a liqueur that people make themselves from ginja berries (sour cherries) and store in bottles.  The country is a wine-lover’s paradise.  A trip down the Douro River Valley, where most of the wine is made, is popular with tourists.  Of course, the Portuguese people are friendly and welcoming and are probably the biggest reason to visit, although the food is a close second.

Portuguese Cuisine

The cuisine get its roots from ingredients obtained through trade routes established centuries ago.  Bread, rice, spices, pastries, sausages and seafood, especially cod, remain the staples of many Portuguese meals.  It is often referred to as peasant food, although it is now becoming a gourmand’s destination.  The Portuguese get the credit for introducing tempura to Japan, tea to the British and hot chilies to Asia.

Many of their pastries are made with sugar, which started arriving in the 15^th century, originally from the island of Madeira and later from Brazil.  A visit to a Pasteleria is a must.  Interestingly, the pastries are made with lots of egg yolks, to include their most famous pastry, Pais de nata.  It is said that the nuns used the egg whites to starch their habits and preserve wine, so they had an abundance of egg yolks, with which they masterfully crafted into pastries.

The sausages are also famous and butcher shops all over are stuffed with cases filled with an array of sausages, along with legs of cured ham.  Chourico is a spicy sausage, used in many soups and stews, like their famous caldo verde.  Morcela, a blood sausage, is also extremely popular.  You will also find assortments of delicious cheeses, many made from sheep’s milk that are prepared using an ancient method of coagulating the milk with thistle flower.  Olives and olive oil are also exceptional products coming from Portugal.

Spices from all over the world are also used in their cuisine but it is probably the abundant use of seafood, that is most renown. The Portuguese are one of the top countries in the world when it comes to seafood consumption.  It is said that there are over 1000 Portuguese recipes that use salt cod as the main ingredient.  Sardines are also loved.  They even have a month long sardine festival that is held each year when they are the most abundant.  A couple of other dishes that should be mentioned is bifana, a pork sandwich that is a specialty, as is francesinha, a sandwich covered in a hot thick tomato and beer sauce.  Oh and their beer is highly regarded too.  They will tell you Super Bock is the best beer in the world.

So let’s enjoy a Portuguese meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peixinhos da horta (Fried Green Beans)

Soup Course

Caldo Verde (Portuguese Kale Soup)

Salad Course

Salada de Polvo (Octopus Salad)

Main Course

Bacalhau a Bras (Salted Cod with Eggs)

Dessert 

Pais de Nata (Egg Custard Tart)

We set the scene in the classic blue and white dishes for which they are famous.  We placed several ships to represent there impressive naval exploration. They have a history of great explorers, like Ferdinand Magellan, the first person to circumvent the globe and Vasco de Gama, who discovered the sea route to India.  Bartholomew Diaz, was the first to sail around the southern tip of Africa and others who discovered new lands like Brazil, parts of Africa and the Far-East, claiming them for the Portuguese Empire.  A can of sardines was set in place, as was an olive branch, a cork, a cross and a good bottle of port wine.  We put on some soft Fado music to complete the mood.

We said Saude which means Cheers, and toasted with a taste of port.  We began our meal with fried green beans, that were battered.  This is the original tempura that was introduced to the Japanese, which the Japanese later embellished.  The name Peixinhos da horta, literally translated means, little fish from the garden.  The name comes from the end result of the fried beans resembling slender, fried fish.  We loved them as our first course.

Next, was the famous caldo verde or Portuguese kale soup.  It is literally my husband’s favorite soup and therefore had to be included in the meal.  It is hearty and the flavor superb, especially with the chucks of chourico and linguisa sausages.

Next we enjoyed the main course, Bacalhau a Bras, a salted cod with eggs and potatoes.  This recipe was given to me by our guide in Sintra named Lidia.  After many inquiries during our trip to Portugal, this was the dish that nearly everyone told me to make as the main course for the Portuguese meal.  It  is lovely and the combination of flavors; comforting and delicious.

It was served alongside a octopus salad, as octopus is another much loved seafood.  This Portuguese version was excellent with red onion, sun dried tomatoes, coriander and lime.  I could eat this everyday!

Lastly, we just had to indulge in the famous pais de nata, the famous egg custard tart, that was sublime, and went perfectly with a shot of espresso called um bica, literally a shot of only 2-3 ozs.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful and intriguing county, I leave you with some Fado lyrics, which cannot be explained but must be felt and experienced.

Is both mine and yours this Fado

Destiny that tides us (together)

No matter how much it is denied

By the stings of a guitar

Whenever one hears a lament

of a guitar singing

one is instanly lost

with a desire to weep

Oh people of my land

Now I understand

This sadness which I carry on

Was from you that I received

And it would seem tenderness

If l let myself be soothed

My anguish would be greater

My singing would be less sadder

Oh people of my land

Lyrics by Mariza, an international Fado star

Until next time,

Abrigada (thank you, in Portuguese)

Darlene

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

How did Poland get its name?

The full official name is Rzeczpospolita Polska which translates to, “The Commonwealth of Poland.”  It is believed that Poland (Polska) gets its name from the Polans, a tribe that inhabited the basin of the Warta River back in the eighth and ninth centuries (in today’s western Poland.)  The name Polans is believed to come from the proto-Slavic word “pol’e” which meant field or plain.  The name of the tribe is usually referred to as “people of the fields.”  In the tenth century rulers of the most powerful dynasty, the Piasts, formed a kingdom which was called Polonia, the land of the Polans, Poland.

Where is Poland Located?

Poland is located in central Europe in both the northern and eastern hemispheres.  She has a border on the Baltic Sea to the north.  Poland has many neighbors which include the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad to the north, Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine to the east, Slovakia and Czech Republic to the south and Germany to the west.  Poland is quite large, ninth largest in all of Europe.

Poland was aptly named as a people of the fields or plains because much of the land is exactly that.  It is a low-lying country with 91% of the land 300m above sea level.  Much of the Polish plain is used for agriculture.  Despite it being lowlands, the country has a versatile natural environment.  In the north, on the Baltic Sea, it has spectacular sandy beaches and busy harbors.  Glaciers have formed lakes and low hills.  In fact, small lakes dot the whole of northern Poland, especially in the region known as Masurian Lake District, where there are more than 2000 lakes.  This is also the area where the only primeval forests remain in Europe.  There are mountains along the southern border.  The Carpathian Mountains is where the highest peak is found, called Mount Rysy.  This area offers wonderful hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter.

A Brief History of Poland

The early history of Poland is akin to the game of thrones.  In fact it may even be more fascinating.  The history dates back to the tenth century where the first documented ruler was Mieskzo I from the Piast dynasty.   He is responsible for bringing Christianity to the region.  The first coronation took place in Krakow in 1025 and the Kingdom of Poland began.

There were many wars and uprisings throughout Poland’s history.  There was a time during the 16^th century considered to be the Golden Age.  The territory of Poland greatly expanded with the forming of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.  They ruled nearly one million miles of territory.  Poland attracted many refugees escaping from religious persecution, as they had a policy of religious tolerance.  It was during this time that the capital of Poland was relocated to Warsaw from Krakow to be more centrally located.  It was sometime in the mid-17^th century that the commonwealth went into decline.  The Swedes invaded Poland and left the country in ruins.  In the 18^th century, Poland gradually fell under foreign influence.  The rulers of Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded Poland and partitioned its territory.  Poland was literally wiped off the map from 1795 until 1918.

Despite this oppression, the nation continued to exist as a cultural community.  Poles engaged in armed resistance.  They fought with Napoleon organizing the November and January uprisings, both of which failed.  The outbreak of World War I gave Poland a chance to regain its freedom which she did when the second Polish Republic was established on November 11^th, 1918.  The freedom however did not last long.  On September 1, 1939 Poland was invaded by Nazi Germany and World War II began.  Six million Polish citizens died during the war.  After the war ended, Poland fell under Soviet control until the fall of the Soviet Union.  The first elections of the Third Polish Republic were held in 1989.  At this time Poland began to transition from a communist state to a capitalist one.

Today the ethnic makeup of the nation is very different from what it was prior to World War II. Today it is almost mono-ethnic with Poles making up 97 percent of the population.  Prior to 1939, Poland was a multi-ethnic country with a third being minorities.  Due to the atrocities of the Soviet and German genocides, changing around the borders after the war, along with ethnic policies of the communist government, Poland’s minorities were almost completely wiped out.  The Jewish community, of over 3 million, was almost completely eradicated.  Today the Jewish population in Poland is estimated between 6000 and 10,000 souls.  The total population of Poland today is about 38 million with 15 to 20 million Poles living elsewhere.  The language they speak is Polish and considered to be one of the most difficult languages to learn.

Poland now has a new constitution which was signed in 1997.  They are a member of NATO and the European Union. Perhaps Polksa has finally found her way to peace, stability and happiness.

Polish Culture

Since the creation of the country back in 966 and through the adoption of Christianity, it is no surprise that belief in God has been a mainstay throughout time.  Today the majority of Poles, 90 percent, are Roman Catholic. The balance make up other Christian religions, such as Eastern Orthodox and Protestants.  There are still some small Muslim and Jewish populations as well.  Today, freedom of religion is guaranteed by the constitution.

Since the country is mostly Roman Catholic, its most important holidays include: Easter, All Saints and Souls Day and Christmas.   On All Saints and Souls Day, observed on November 1^st and 2^nd respectively, Poles reunite with family members to honor the deceased and place candles and flowers on their grave sites.  Easter is a special time of year for religious observances, as well as the return of spring.  City centers come alive with festivals and markets upheld by unique traditions of coloring eggs and burning a giant doll.  The doll is called  Marzanna and represents the incarnation of the old Slavic goddess of winter, plague and death. To protect themselves they partake in an old fashioned witch burning, followed by a drowning of the doll to ensure a timely arrival of spring and a good harvest.

Advent marks the beginning of the Christmas season.  Poles often use this time to fast or at least give up a favorite food.  People clean their homes and decorate for Christmas.  Once again the city centers come alive with lights, Christmas markets and cheer. Christmas Eve is more important than Christmas Day in Poland.  It is known as Wigilia and a time for a feast after the first star in the evening sky is seen.  After dinner, gifts are exchanged and people head off to midnight mass.

Men and women’s folk costumes are brought out during the holidays and other celebrations such as Independence Day, National Day and weddings.   The costumes called stoje ludowe are brightly colored with each region having a unique style.  A careful observer can even tell from the type of head coverings where a woman is from and her marital status.  Folk dancing and music is a treasured part of the culture.

Why Visit Poland?

Poland has six different seasons, which include the four normal ones. They also have one called “early spring” and another called “early winter.”   Poland has great biological diversity with something special to offer during each season.  There are 23 national parks and the most primeval forest areas are under legal protection.  The bio-variety of the flora and fauna is astonishing.  There are 75,000 species of plants, 39,000 micro-organisms and fungi (it is no wonder foraging for mushrooms is a favorite national pastime) and around 33,000 animal species.

The numerous lakes make for wonderful kayaking, sailing and fishing.  Some of their most cherished animals are: the white tailed eagle, a symbol of Poland since the beginning, white storks, which are considered good luck if they nest on your home before they make their way to Africa in winter, bison, the largest mammal in all of Europe, which lives in the primeval forests of Bialowieza, and around 600 gray wolves that are under legal protection and live in the remote and forested areas of eastern Poland.

Poland is home to “The Black Madonna,” their holiest relic.  The Black Madonna is housed in the Jasna Gora Monastery.  She is famous for her darkened skin and two scars on her cheek.  Many miracles have been attributed to the Black Madonna which is why thousands flock to pray in the presence of this icon.  It is said that the Black Madonna came from the table used by the Holy Family or a copy of the original panel, painted by Luke, the Apostle. The dark tones of the skin are attributed to a legend that involved a fire in which the icon was the only thing left unscathed, except for the discoloration of her skin.

Poland is home to numerous UNESCO world heritage sites.  They range from spectacular medieval castles to protected ancient forests, as well as the infamous Auschwitz Birkenau Camp (Nazi concentration and extermination camp.)  The old towns of Krakow and Warsaw are big draws, as well as the world’s oldest salt mines.  There are so many wonderful things to see and do in Poland or you can just stop and sit on a park bench to hear Chopin playing in the capital city of Warsaw.

Polish Cuisine

Polish cuisine is as interesting as its past and highly influenced by her neighbors and others who invaded Poland.  It also is influenced by the Roman Catholic rituals of feasting and fasting.  During fasting time, meat is not eaten, so many meatless dishes and fish dishes, have become part of the Polish cuisine.  Cereal grains are probably among the most important dietary staples, which include barley, buckwheat, wheat and rye.  Their national drink, vodka, is made from distilled rye.  Other very important agricultural staples include: potatoes, cabbage, mushrooms, beets, carrots and cucumbers.  Dill pickles are famous from Poland.  Sour cream is served with just about everything and the diet is heavy in dairy, butter and cheese, especially sheep’s cheese.

Meat is also important in the diet, with pork being the most consumed meat, along with chicken, beef and duck.  The polish cuisine also loves pickled and smoked fish, especially herring.  Of course one of their most famous foods is kielbasa, also known as Polish sausage, with each region having their own specialty.

The Poles eat their main meal of the day around 4:00 pm and it is called obiad.  It usually begins with any one of their amazing, hearty soups.  White and red borscht soups are ubiquitous, as are others made from mushrooms, duck blood and clear broths.  Meat is often served as the main course and it could be their famous stew called bigos, also known as Polish Hunger’s stew or golabki.  This has cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat or golonka, fresh ham and is served with horseradish.  We of course cannot forget the famous pierogi, which is the most well known Polish food outside of Poland.  It is a dumpling filled with an array of fillings.  The Poles also love sweets and dessert is often served at the end of the meal with coffee or tea.  Cake is the most beloved dessert in Poland and comes in every imaginable flavor and texture, from cheesecake to pound cake,  They love them all.

So let’s enjoy a Polish meal:

The Menu

Starter

Bialy Barszcz (White Borscht Soup)

Main Course

Pierogi (Dumplings Stuffed with Sauerkrat and Mushrooms)

Kaczka Pieczona z jabtkami (Roast Duck with Apples and Potatoes)

Dessert

Kremowka (Papal Cake)

We set the scene with the colors of the Polish flag; red and white.  Red corn poppies adorned the table, as that is the national flower.  A cross represented the country’s religion, as well as a candle with the national emblem of the white eagle.  A few staple agricultural ingredients completed the scene.   We played Frederic Chopin softly in the background, as he is one of the most famous Poles, a composer and virtuoso pianist from the Romantic Era.

Our first course was the white borscht soup known as bialy barzcz.  I fell in love!  Potatoes are what make it white but it has flavors that hit every note of the palate.  I especially loved the kielbasa with fresh horseradish, as well as fresh dill.  This is a lovely soup that I will make often, especially on a cold winter day.

Next was the main course, a whole, roasted duck presented on a large platter with apples and potatoes.  The potatoes were cooked in the duck fat during roasting and the apples were the stuffing….. need I say more.

Alongside the duck the famous pierogi was served.  The famous Polish dumpling was stuffed with mushrooms, onion and sauerkraut.  It was boiled, then fried in butter and served with sour cream.  Simply scrumptious!

For dessert I made the cream cake called kremovka.  It is now known as the papal cake because of Poland’s most famous citizen, Pope John Paul II, now Saint Pope John Paul II, said he loved it!  Born as Karol Wojtkta, he and his school friends would stop at Hagenhuber’s Bakery where he would enjoy his favorite dessert.  This has a creamy custard filling in between puff pastry and is sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar.  A heavenly treat indeed!

After dinner we watched the movie “Schindlers List.”  The movie is an eye opening saga of a very difficult time in Poland during Nazi occupation, and how just a few people can make a world of difference.  If you have not seen the movie, I highly recommend it.

As we say good bye to this most unique and interesting country, I leave you with a few Polish proverbs:

Necessity is the mother of invention

When it’s your time, you have to go

and

What one thinks when sober, one says when drunk…

Until next time,

Do zobaczenia (“See you later” in Polish)

How the Philippines Got Their Name?

In 1543,  the Spanish explorer Rudy Lopez de Villalobos, gave the islands the name “Felipinas,” in honor of the Crown Prince Felipe (Phillip), who later became King Phillip II of Spain.  Prior to this, Magellan named them “Archipelagoof St. Lazarus” but that name never caught on.  The Chinese called them “Ma-yi”, which meant, “Land of Gold” because they bought gold in Mindoro.  A Greek map maker called the islands, “Minolos”, on an ancient map.  The Americans called them the “Philippine Islands” and then, upon independence in 1946, they became officially known as “The Republic of the Philippines.”

Where are the Philippines Located?

The Philippines is an archipelago of islands located in the western Pacific Ocean.  She sits on the eastern Asian border between the Philippine Sea and South China Sea.  Her neighbors are Taiwan and China to the north, Vietnam to the west and Indonesia to the south.  It is made up of 7,641 islands that have three main geographical divisions, from north to south, Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao.  The capital city is Manila but the most populous city is Quezon City.  Both cities are part of Metro Manila.  Metro Manila is the considered to be the most densely populated area of the world, with 55,446 people per square mile.  Every ten years the Philippines experiences a large magnitude earthquake and in 1991, Mt. Pinatubo erupted, creating the largest mushroom cloud the world has seen.  Its eruption ejected ten billion metric tons of magma and 20 million tons of sulfur dioxides into the stratosphere.

A Brief History of the Philippines

Today the Philippines is an archipelago but it is believed that during the Ice Age, they were connected to mainland Asia by a land bridge, allowing humans to walk from there to Asia. The earliest people were hunter-gatherers.  Somewhere between 3000 and 2000 BC, people learned to farm.  They grew rice and had domesticated animals.  They traded with China from the 10^th century on, and by the 12^th century, Arab merchants arrived and introduced Islam.  In 1521 Magellan discovered the Philippines and claimed them for Spain.  The conquistadors and friars converted the Filipinos to Catholicism.  They built schools and universities and created a feudal system.  In 1762 the British captured the Philippines for a brief two year period.

In the 19^th century a nationalist feeling was starting to grow, influenced by a writer named Jose Rizal (a national hero).  In 1898 a war broke out between the USA and Spain.  The Americans defeated the Spanish fleet in Manila Bay.  Despite trying to become independent, the Philippines were handed over to the Americans as part of a peace treaty.  Another war broke out between the Filipinos and American forces in 1899 and lasted until 1902 when the Filipino leader Aguinaldo was captured. The USA wanted to Americanize the Philippines but never quite succeeded.  The USA promised the Philippines their full independence by 1945.

In 1941 Japanese troops invaded the islands and by May of 1942, the Philippines were entirely in the hands of the Japanese.  In October 1944 American troops returned to the Philippines and recaptured Manila in February 1945.  The Philippines became independent on July 4, 1946.  Manual Roxas was the first President. In 1965, Ferdinand Marcos was elected president and was reelected in 1969 however, extreme poverty and inequality created a Communist insurgency in the countryside.  Marcos declared martial law in 1972 and his dictatorship was exceedingly corrupt.  He was forced into exile in the late 1980s.  You may recall the discovery of thousands of pairs of shoes that his wife Imelda, left behind when they fled to Hawaii. Today there is museum housing over 800 pairs of her shoes.  After Ferdinand’s death, Imelda returned to make two unsuccessful bids for the presidency.

Today the Philippines is still poor but things are getting much better. They have a population of 103 million people and a growing economy.

Filipino Culture

There are an estimated 175 languages spoken in the Philippines.  Most of them are classified as Malayo-Polynesian.  Among them there are 13 indigenous languages, spoken by nearly one million people.  Today the official languages are Filipino, (also known as Tagalog) and English.  Spanish was spoken by 60% of the population in the early 20^th century.  The Philippines has a fusion culture where east meets west.  Despite the western influences, the old Asian culture of Filipinos has been retained and is clearly displayed in their daily lives.  It unfolds in their music, dance and literature.  Their culture embodies what is known as “bahala na”, a general sense of “whatever will be, will be.”  Christianity is very important and practiced by about 80 percent of the population, while Islam is the religion of about 11 percent.  Christmas is one the most loved celebrations of the Filipinos.  Families and friends gather on the 24^th of December for “Noche Buena”, a Spanish term which means “Midnight Meal” to welcome in Christmas Day.  New Years is another much loved holiday when they wear dotted clothes and prepare round fruits on the table to symbolize prosperity.  Their annual calendar is filled with festivals, many of which include costumes and rituals from the nation’s pre-colonial past.

Filipinos love sports and enjoy watching and playing games like basketball and American football, as well as boxing.  There national sport is called arnis, a form of marital arts.  The basic social unit of the country is family.  The family unit includes aunts, uncles, grandparents, cousins and other outside relations, such as god parents and close friends.  This results in massive gatherings, filled with music, singing, food and laughter.  The Filipinos are known throughout the world to be a friendly, happy and a fun group of people.  They are also amazing caretakers.  Many have trained to become nurses and have moved to the USA to send money home to their families.  They are known as “Overseas Filipinos”, with over three million in the USA and over a million in Saudi Arabia.

They love to shop and the Philippines is home to three of the world’s largest malls.  The mall is also a good place to escape the heat and humidity of their tropical climate.  The Philippines has a diverse climate but suffers from torrential rains during the Monsoon Season, which can also bring about deadly typhoons.

Why Visit the Philippines?

The first reason to visit the Philippines would be to enjoy the Filipino people, known to be some of the friendliest in the world.  Second, would be the stunning beauty of their over 7000 islands; immaculate white sandy beaches and pristine turquoise waters.  Every conceivable water sport is practiced in the Philippines.  The Tubbataha Reefs are a UNESCO world heritage site and some say it is the best diving site in the world.  There is an underground river in Puerto Princesa, Palawan, where you can take an hour long paddleboat tour through the cave and see one of the Seven Wonders of the World.  On the island of Bohol you will find the 1260 hills that look like chocolates and may also see tarsiers, one of the cutest and smallest monkeys in the world.  Siargao Island is known as the surfing capital of the Philippines.  In Sagada, a mountain province, you can find hanging coffins in Echo Valley, where the locals believe the dead should be placed in steep crevices so they can be closer to the gods as they journey to the afterlife.  The Batad Rice Terraces are a site to behold but getting to them is not all that easy.  The rice terraces are also a UNESCO site.  Vigan, on Llocos Sur, is a whole town (and another UNESCO site) known for an exceptionally well-preserved 16^th century trading town.  The list of incredible destinations goes on and on, but I did I mention the food?

Filipino Cuisine

Filipino food is often referred to as the original fusion cuisine.  Hints of Spanish, Western, Chinese, Japanese and Pacific Islander flavors, are all a testament to its rich cultural heritage.  But it should be noted that they have flavors all of their own, that are quickly becoming world renown.  They are specifically known for the acids and sweetness that many of their dishes impart.  Adobo, for example, means “marinade” and whether it is for chicken or pork, it is considered the national dish.  The meat is drenched in a mixture of soy and vinegar and just might be the best you have ever tasted.  Pork is the meat of choice in the Philippines, with dishes like the famous lechon that is famous for the crunchy exterior of a whole, spit roasted pig, dipped in lechon sauce which consists of vinegar, sugar and a touch of liver.  Even the late, cuisine adventurer, Anthony Bourdain, considered it the best he had ever tasted.  Also the delicious pork longganisa, is a sausage made with ground pork.  Lumpia is a spring roll and ubiquitous there as an appetizer or snack.  They are served fried or fresh and stuffed with vegetables and sometimes minced meats that will make your palate sing.

Fresh seafood is abundant there, as are tropical fruits of every variety. The Philippines are the largest exporters of coconuts, papayas and mangosteen.  Bangus is considered to be the national fish, also known as milkfish.   Mango salads are topped with tart calamansi juice, similar to a lime or lemon.  Mangoes are the national fruit and are known to be the sweetest, most delicious, mangoes in the world.  Bagoong is a fermented fish sauce that imparts its umami flavor to many dishes and is native to the Philippines.  Sinigang is a delicate soup that is made with fish, seafood or meats, cooked in a sour tamarind broth, with fresh greens.   Ube is a purple yam and is officially a craze on social media platforms with its health benefits and beautiful lavender color.  Ube is often used to make ice cream and for their beloved halo-halo dessert but is also enjoyed boiled and baked.  One of the most interesting and traditional dishes is balut, which is a boiled, fertilized duck egg with a half-formed chick inside.  It is believed to be an aphrodisiac.  Needless to say there are so many delicious and unique choices to try and enjoy in the beautiful Philippines.

So let’s enjoy a Filipino meal:

The Meal

Starter

Lumpiang Ubod  ( Fresh Spring Roll)

Main Course

Adobong Manok (Chicken Adobo)

Pancit Bihon (Rice Noodle with Pork)

Dessert

Ube Ice Cream (Purple Yam Ice Cream)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag: red, white and blue.  We placed mangoes on our table and a picture of a Philippine, an eagle with the same name (Their national symbol and the largest eagle in the world.)  A string of pearls was added, as it is the national gem and where the largest pearl ever was discovered, weighing a whopping 14 lbs.   Palm fronds were used, as Anahaw leaves are used as a roofing material on the humble abodes called, bahay kubo or nipa huts, that still dot the rural country sides.  A yo-yo was included because it was invented by a Filipino and means “comeback” in the Llocono language.  Lastly, white flowers topped off the décor, representing the national flower, called Sampaguita, also known as the Arabian Jasmine. Its aroma is simply intoxicating.

We began with the famous lumpia (spring roll) and I chose the fresh variety.  We absolutely adored this appetizer.  It was made with a light egg crepe and then filled with shrimp, pork and ubod (hearts of palm.)  It was topped with a peanut sauce and the result was delicious.

For the main course, which was served family style, we had the famous adobo.  It was truly the best chicken I have ever had.  It was served with rice, which is typically served with every meal in the Philippines.  We also enjoyed another beloved dish called pancit bihon.  Pancit means “noodle” and was introduced by the Chinese.  This rice noodle dish was stir fried with pork and vegetables.  It was flavored with soy and fermented fish sauce.  This is a quick and easy dish that I plan to make often.

For dessert, I just had to make something with that purple yam, called ube.  I made a scrumptious ice cream that was as tasty as it was beautiful.

After dinner we set up our karaoke machine and sang while enjoying a San Miguel beer which began their operations in the Philippines in 1890.  Karaoke is considered the national pastime of Filipinos.

I am blessed to have Filipinos as extended family and relish every opportunity to indulge in their exquisite cuisine and family gatherings.

Until next time,

Paalam (Goodbye or Farewell in Tagalog)

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Peru get its name?

Garcilaso de la Vega, was the first one to shed light of how Peru got its name.  Vega was born, the son of a Spanish conquistador and an Incan princess, in 1539.  He was one of the first to write detailed accounts of the Incas and Spanish conquests in Peru.  His book was published in 1609, was called, The Royal Commentaries of the Incas.

The story goes that in 1513, Spaniard Vasco Nunez de Balboa discovered the South Sea.  He spotted a native Indian who was quietly fishing at the mouth of an estuary.  His crew captured the native and hauled him aboard the boat.  After finally calming him down, the Spanish attempted to ask him questions about the unknown land.  Scared and confused but wanting to please his captors, he blurted out the word Beru, which was actually his name.  He then blurted out a second word, Pelu, which means, “river” in the Inca language.  The Spanish combined the two words to create what we know the country to be called today; Peru.  (The Incas and natives knew their country as Ttahuatin-Suya, meaning, “the four-quarters of the world.”)

Where is Peru Located?

Peru is located on the western border of South America.  Her neighbors are Ecuador and Columbia to the north, Brazil to the east, Bolivia to the southeast, Chile to the south and the Pacific Ocean to the west.  It is the third largest country on the continent, behind Argentina and Brazil.  Lima is the capital city and its main economic hub.

Peru has enormous biodiversity, with ninety distinct microclimates.  It is listed among the ten most biodiverse countries in the world.  The coastal plain, (costa) is a narrow strip of desert land that runs the length of the country.  There is an upland region, (sierra) the highland, which includes the very high mountain ranges of the Andes, as well as gorges and deep valleys.  There are many rivers that are born in the Andes and descend to the Pacific, allowing for irrigation to serve a very arid region.  The east is home to the tropical Amazon basin’s rain forest, jungle (selva), and the Amazon River.  Lake Titicaca, lies between Peru and Bolivia and is the largest lake in all of South America.  It is also the highest in altitude, navigable lake in all the world.  In Andean belief, Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun.  Its waters are renowned for stillness and bright reflections.  Jacques Cousteau discovered ruins of an ancient city under the lake’s surface, He also discovered the descendants of the Quechua people, who still live on the islands today.

A Brief History of Peru

Peru has an ancient history, stemming from various tribal groups that lived there.  In the 12^th century, the small city state of Cuzco was formed by the Killkes tribe.  This began the formidable era of the Incan Empire.  Over the next several hundred years, the Incas managed to conquer not only Peru but also parts of Ecuador, Bolivia and northern Chile.  They had a highly developed civilization when the Spanish arrived there in 1531.  Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, conquered and captured Cuzco in 1533.  Peru was a great source of wealth and power for the Spanish, mostly from the gold and silver discovered in the Andes Mountains.  In 1535, Pizarro established Lima as the capital of Peru, which remains so today.  With the help of others, from Bolivia and Venezuela, Peru was able to defeat the Spanish and become a free country in 1821, when they declared their independence.

Like many newly independent countries, Peru went through a difficult time with coups, dictatorships, military rule and wars with guerilla groups fighting against the government.  In recent history, Alberto Fujimori, won three consecutive terms, despite being accused of fraud.  He then stunned the nation when he resigned during a trip to Japan.  Revelations that Fujimori secretly held Japanese citizenship outraged the populace, since he could not be extradited to face corruption charges.  Eventually he ended up in Chile to pursue his political ambitions.  There he was arrested and sentenced to 25 years in prison.  He was recently pardoned, after serving only 12 years, as he is suffering from cancer.  The pardon caused outrage, once again.  Despite Fujimori’s crimes against humanity, he did some good things for the economy, which continues to thrive.  Their economy is dependent on its many commodities, but prices do fluctuate with the world markets.  They are the world’s second largest producer of silver and copper. They are the sixth largest producer of gold; mining 162 tons of gold a year.  Peru’s coastal waters provide for excellent fishing grounds.  Fish and agriculture are very important to their growing economy, as are minerals and natural resources.  Tourism continues to contribute more than ever to this nation’s economic growth.

Peruvian Culture

With more than 10,000 years of history, Peru is filled with a great wealth of culture and tradition.  As the oldest civilization in South America, Peru is home to many riches.  Peruvians fully recognize the importance today of their heritage and the value the Andes and the Amazon offer in natural resources and ancient traditions.

Spanish is the official language, along with Quechua and Aymara.  There are 45 other native languages that are spoken as well.  Catholicism is the predominant religion in Peru and is very important in the lives of Peruvians.  Yet they exist peacefully alongside other belief systems including indigenous beliefs, with shamans and medicine men playing important roles.

The coca plant (the same one used to make cocaine) has been used for thousands of years in the Andean world.  It is used for its medicinal properties and religious significance.  Coca leaves, which are brewed in tea, are particularly effective against altitude sickness, which is helpful at high elevations.

Since pre-Hispanic times, music and dance have played vital roles in Peruvian society.  Ancient Peruvians used seashells and reeds, along with animal bones, to produce sounds.  Weaving is another prominent art form in Peru.  It is believed that every form of weaving known today, was invented by the Peruvians.  It is estimated it takes somewhere between 500 to 600 hours to spin, dye and weave a traditional poncho.  They are typically given as gifts to one who enters adulthood and it is expected to last them a lifetime.

In Cuzco, Peruvian history is displayed in the architecture.  Here you will find Spanish, colonial style churches and dwellings built directly on top of their old Incan stone temples.

Why Visit Peru?

Peru, being home to amazing biodiversity, is one of the most unique and colorful places to visit on the planet.  Peru has 25,000 plant species, it ranks first in the world in distinct fish species, second for species of birds and third for amphibians and mammals.  It is home to 12 UNESCO world heritage sites, including the famous Machu Picchu that was recently deemed one of the Seven New Wonders of the World.  It was uncovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham and today displays the pride and complexity of the ancient Inca civilization as one of the most popular tourist destinations. The stone work, masterfully constructed to be seismically stable, is one of the mysteries of this ancient site.

Peru is also home to numerous natural wonders, including Rainbow Mountain and the Painted Hills, where mineral deposits color the landscape like a rainbow. The Cerro Blanco sand dune, located in the south of Peru, is the highest in the world.  Peru’s Nazca Lines, are a collection of more than 70, giant, human and animal geoglyphs.  There are 10,000 lines, some of them are up to 30 miles long and it remains one of the world’s biggest, archeological mysteries that was never even discovered until man took flight.  The Andes, the beautiful coastlines, deserts, the Amazon basin and rivers, and Lake Titicaca are all great reasons to visit Peru.  However, it may just be worth a visit there for the gastronomy alone; it is one of the best cuisines in all the world.

Peruvian Cuisine

The diversity of Peru’s agricultural production comes from its microclimates and varied geography.  Peru’s multiple cultures along with the brilliance of her chefs, have enriched the cuisine to the point of it being recognized as one of the best in the world.  Gastronomy has become such an important element in the lives of Peruvians, it is part of the national identity.  The cuisine of Peru is both ancient and modern.  It is a fusion of the indigenous population along with contributions of immigrants from Europe, (mainly Spain, Italy and Germany), Asia (China and Japan) and West Africa.   Imagine a cuisine where there are the over 3800 varieties of potatoes.  Corn is available in every color, shape and size, along with rich grains, like quinoa.  We certainly can’t forget the abundant seafood, especially their amazing ceviche, available all along the coast.  High in the Andean region, cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca, are popular sources of meat.  It is, however, the native aji chilies, pureed into amazing sauces, that just might be their most delicious contribution.  The flavors of Peruvian cuisine are bold, rich, and spicy.  Yet they can be subtle and complex, as well.  You will certainly want to enjoy the amazing flavors of this cuisine with their famous pisco sour; Peru’s national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Peruvian Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peruvian Ceviche (Peru’s National Dish)

Main Dish

Split Roasted Chicken (Pollo a la Brasa)

Served with

Two Peruvian Sauces ( Aji Verde & Aji de Huacatay)

Dessert

Caramel Meringue Parfait (Suspiro de Limena)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red and white.  We placed dolls, hand crafted by natives, to represent the Incan empire, a photo of the magnificent Machu Picchu, a yellow aji pepper, silver and gold coins to represent their wealth, potatoes, a rope, with knots, representing the ancient system of record keeping, called quipus, a penguin statue (yes they have penguins in Peru), and palm fronds to represent the Amazon rain forest.  Finally, a soccer ball was added, as it is their national sport.

Our first course was ceviche; the national dish of Peru.  Ceviche is so loved and is part of its national heritage.  It actually has its own holiday on June 28^th of each year.  This ceviche was one of the best we have ever had.  It was unique in that, besides the delectable seabass, it had sweet potatoes and giant kernels of toasted corn.  It was flavored with aji peppers, red onion and a citrusy flavored marinade, made with fresh lemon and lime.  The ceviche was served with the marinade, in the tradition of cevicherias and is called, leche de tigre or “tigers milk.”

For the main course we had their famous, pollo a la brasa.  This dish is loved in Peru but may be more famous in the USA.  It just may be the best chicken ever.  It was a split, roasted chicken, lightly seasoned with vinegar, cumin and pepper.  It was tender and succulent.  But it’s the sauces, for which the Peruvians are so famous, and into which you dip the bites of chicken, that make the dish.  The two sauces we had were, aji verde and aji de huacatay,  (which was my favorite.)  Both sauces are phenomenal and the dishes you can use them on are endless.  The aji verde is very common and flavored with aji paste, chilies, cilantro, lime, garlic, oil, cheese and mayo, all blended together.  The aji de huacatay is also made with cilantro, aji paste, garlic, and oil but has the addition of huacatay paste, which can be found in your Latin market.  Huacatay is a fresh herb, that tastes somewhere between basil and mint.  It is sometimes called black mint and is related to the marigold and tarragon families.  These sauces were off the charts, amazing.  We actually did not have a side dish, but potatoes, cooked anyway you like, would be a great accompaniment  and totally authentic.

For dessert we enjoyed suspiro de limena, which is a caramel meringue, parfait that is exceptionally sweet and delicious.  The name of the dessert, literally translated means, “the sigh of a Lima lady.”  I think that pretty much sums it up.

After our feast, we took our pisco sours, (made with Peruvian pisco, as the base liquor and lime, which makes up the sour, along with bitters, egg whites and a simple syrup,) to enjoy, as we watched Wild Peru, by National Geographic.  This film highlights the amazing biodiversity of the land and sea of Peru.  Did you know you can swim with pink dolphins there?  By the way, Peru also has a national holiday, in honor of the cocktail, pisco sour, which happens the first Saturday of every February.

I leave you with my favorite Peruvian Proverb:

“It is better to prevent than cure.”

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

How did Paraguay get its name?

There are many theories as to how Paraguay got its name, but the most compelling one comes from the Guarani language and the river that shares the same name.  In the Guarani language, para (ocean) and gua (to or from) y (water/river).  Put all those together and it means the “river that goes to the ocean” or “river that gives birth to the sea.”

Where is Paraguay located?

Paraguay’s nickname is “Corazon de Sudamerica,”  “The heart of South America.“  Its nickname is due to its location in the center of the South American continent.  It is a landlocked country that borders Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia.  It lies on both banks of the Paraguay River, which runs through the country from north to south.  The capital city of Asuncion is located on the banks of the river, in the southwestern part of the country.  It is also part of the Triple Frontier, which has a tri-border area where the Igauzu and the Ptarana rivers converge.  In Paraguay, the city is called Cuidad Del Este, which is the closest city from which to see the magnificent Iguazu Falls, that makes up the largest waterfall system in the world.  Iguazu Falls is one of the new, natural Seven Wonders of the World.  The western region, known as Chaco, has 60 percent of the country’s land but only two percent of the population lives there.  The majority of the population lives within 100 miles of the capital city.

A Brief History of Paraguay

The original inhabitants of Paraguay were the Guarani people.  They were farmers.  The Spanish arrived in the 16^th century and founded the capital city of Asuncion in 1537.  Paraguay was one of the first to gain independence from Spain in 1811.  This was due mainly to its lack of precious ores.  Jose Gaspar Rodriguez Francis became the first of a long line of dictators that ruled the country.  In 1865, the war of the Triple Alliance began and was a total disaster for Paraguay.  The war was with Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay and lasted until 1870.  Nearly 2/3^rd’s of the male population were killed during this war and Paraguay lost much of its territory, including Iguazu Falls.

Another war broke out, called the Chaco War, from 1932-1935, in which Paraguay won against Bolivia, winning back some of its western territory.  Dictators ruled the land until 1989, when General Andres Rodriguez overthrew Stoessner, who was accused of torturing and murdering thousands of political opponents.  Rodriguez went on to win Paraguay’s first multi-candidate elections.  In 1992, Paraguay’s constitutional reforms finally gave equal rights to women. They were one of the last South American countries to give women the right to vote, in 1961.

Today, Paraguay is experiencing excellent economic growth and is considered to be much more stable, both politically and economically.  Unfortunately, however, the distribution of wealth is tragically unequal.  80% of the land is held by only 2.5% of the people, with 161 people controlling 90% of the country’s wealth.  It is estimated that half the population lives below the poverty line.

Paraguay, along with Brazil, built the largest dam in the world in 1984 (that is until China surpassed it in 2008.) Named the Itaipu Dam, it is used for hydro-electric power, which is a major export for the country.  The dam supplies 75% of Paraguay’s electricity.  Paraguay also exports sugarcane, soybeans, stevia, corn, wheat, tobacco, cassava, fruits, vegetables, beef, pork, eggs, milk and timber.  Over half of Paraguayans work in agriculture and forestry.

Paraguayan Culture

As the Guarani were the primary occupants of Paraguay when the Spanish arrived, many of them took Guarani wives creating a mestizo culture, which is 95 percent of the population today.  Paraguay is one of the few countries in the world that kept their indigenous language as an official language, also called Guarani, along with Spanish.  Some speak Jopara which is a mix of the two.  The Guarani language is an onomatopoeic language, whereby many of its words, like its music, imitate the natural sounds of animals and the natural environment.

Jesuit missionaries established missions in Paraguay.  There are well preserved Jesuit ruins that date back to 1706, which have been named a UNESCO world heritage site and is the only site named in Paraguay.  The Spanish expelled the Jesuits from Paraguay in the mid 18^th century, for which Pope Francis recently issued an apology for the colonial era crimes committed. Today 88% of the population is Catholic, 8% protestant and the balance, indigenous beliefs.

The art of lace making called nanduti, is a prized craft.  It is a wheel based, lace form that originated in Portugal and Spain.  In fact, nanduti actually means “spider web.”  The Paraguayans have put their unique spin on the craft, adding palm leaf shapes to the design.  A festival is held in the town of Itaugua each July, where visitors can watch the lovely lace being made.

Music and dance are other examples of fusion between the Spanish and Guarani cultures.  In rural areas, people play instruments of the indigenous people, including flutes made from sugarcane and rattles made from gourds.  The early conquistadors brought the Spanish guitar and Spanish harp to Paraguay.  These two instruments remain prominent in the music of Paraguay.

The Paraguayans are known for a specific dance, in which they move with an impressive stack of bottles on top of their heads.  There is a vase dance as well, both of which are performed by women. A couple’s dance, known as the Paraguayan Polka, is danced in ballrooms, and on village dance floors, it was created in the 19^th century.

Why Visit Paraguay?

Paraguay is one of the least visited countries in South America, which is precisely why you should want to go.  The fact that it has never built up its tourist infrastructure, is its greatest charm.  This is truly a place where you can get off the beaten track and experience local life.  It is considered safe and the real joy is, the Paraguayan people, who are known to be exceptionally friendly and welcoming.  You will, however, want to have a Spanish/Guarani dictionary handy, as English is not widely spoken.  Buses are the main form of transportation for both locals and tourists alike.  Whether you go to visit the falls, the chaotic, but shopping friendly, city of Cuidad del Este, or to explore the unique flora and fauna that make up the country, there is plenty to see and do in this little known and often misunderstood country of Paraguay.

Paraguayan Food

As Paraguay is not a wealthy country, much of the culture revolves around family and simple pleasures.  You will see groups of people sitting around under the shade of a tree, drinking the traditional tea, such as a drink, called terere.  What yerba mate is to Argentina, terere is to Paraguay.  It is mate but with herbs and enjoyed cold, instead of hot.  You will see everyone carrying a thermos and a gourd with a straw, called a bombilla.

Sopa Paraguaya is considered to be the national dish and is often eaten daily.  Despite its name, it is more similar to a cornbread than a soup.  Chipas are found on nearly every street corner.  This is a cheese bread, made with cassava flour and is similar in texture to a bagel.  Empanadas, milanesa and asados, are also popular and enjoyed in Paraguay, just like with her neighbors.  Generally speaking, Paraguayan cuisine is typically South American.  Fish and meat stews and soups are the norm.  Probably the ingredient that is most used, is mandioca, also known as yucca or cassava, which is somewhat similar to potatoes. They are a native crop and served with nearly every meal.  In fact , it is so common there is a local saying, “Mas Paraguayo que al mandioca” (More Paraguayan than the mandioca). You can also find sushi, schnitzel and shrimp on the barbie, as a result of the Japanese, German and Australian settlements there.

So let’s enjoy a Paraguayan meal:

The Menu

Starter

Payagua Mescada (Paraguayan Tortilla)

Main Course

Bife Koygua (Paraguayan Beef Stew)

Dessert

Crema (A Paraguayan Custard)

Bonus (The National Dish)

Sopa Paraguaya (Cornbread with Egg and Cheese)

We set the scene with the colors of the Paraguayan flag; red white and blue.  We added a gourd, a bombilla, mate, as well as a mandioca/yuca, root.  A soccer ball and fishing net were added, as they are both important sports in the country. We included a photo of the beautiful national tree called the Pink Lapacho, whose inner bark lining is made into a tea, and is also well known for its medicinal value.

We began by saying, Pekaruporante,  which means Bon Appetit, in Guarani.  Our first course was called Payagua Mescada, which means, Paraguayan tortilla.  It is not, however, what you would typically think of as a tortilla.  It is made with their staple ingredient, the yuca or cassava root.  It is more like a fritter than a tortilla.  It is served with beef and yuca root and deep fried, until golden brown.  It was a perfect start to our Paraguayan feast.

The main course was called Bife Koygua and is a typical Paraguayan beef stew.  We completely understood why this is a cherished dish; tender steak, with veggies and a perfectly cooked egg on top.  Bife Koygua is a true comfort food that I will make again and again.

For dessert, we enjoyed a super easy and delectable custard dessert, simply called crema.  This creamy custard is made with eggs, milk and sugar. It had a hint of lemon and was sprinkled with cinnamon.  We enjoyed it with their traditional tea, called terere, which is ubiquitous there.

As a bonus, I included the recipe for their national dish called, Sopa Paraguaya.  It is not a soup at all, but a delicious cornbread that also goes great with terere.

As we say goodbye to this little known country of Paraguay, I leave you with a few Paraguayan proverbs:

“Be grateful with what you have rather than what you think might be out there.”

“If you think the worst, you won’t be far wrong.”

Until next time,

Jajotopata,  which means, “goodbye”, in Guarani.

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

Please note that this page contains affiliate links in which I will earn a small commission however, it will in no way affect the price you pay. I thank you for your support!

How did Papua New Guinea get its Name?

Papua is the original name of the island, which is the second largest island in the world, after Greenland.  It is believed that the word Papua means “frizzy hair,” which was used to describe the Melanesians that resided there. Later, when the Spanish arrived, it was called New Guinea because of the similarity in the look of the local population, with those the explorer had encountered off the coast of Guinea in Africa; Hence the name, Papua New Guinea.

Where is Papua New Guinea Located?

Papua New Guinea is an Oceanian country and occupies the eastern half of the Island of New Guinea.  It lies just north of Australia.  It shares the island with Indonesia, who occupies the western half of the island, known as the Province of West Papua or (Irian Jaya). To the north and east are the islands of Manus, New Britain, New Ireland and Bougainville.  All of these islands are part of Papua New Guinea.

A Brief History of Papua New Guinea

Prehistory of Papua New Guinea dates back some 60,000 years when descendants from Africa first migrated toward the Australian continent.  The first known Europeans to sight New Guinea, were most likely Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the early part of the 16^th century.  Europeans explored the coastlines and found artifacts that included: bone, wood and stone tools, as well as a productive agricultural system.  It was 1870, when the Russian anthropologist, Nicholai Miklukho-Makai, made a number of expeditions to New Guinea and documented his several years of living among native tribes.

The British and Germans held parts of the island until 1902, when it was placed under the authority of the Commonwealth of Australia.  Shortly after the Pacific War began, in 1941, the island was invaded by the Japanese.  Brutal attacks occurred.  It was an area of a major military campaign, where 200,000 Japanese military men lost their lives along with 14,000 Australian and American service personnel.  Following the war, Papua New Guinea was placed under the International Trusteeship System.  They gained their independence on September 16, 1975 and shortly thereafter, joined the United Nations.

As with most newly independent nations, Papua New Guinea has had numerous challenges and fights between rebels, natives and government.  Numerous Chinese have immigrated to Papua New Guinea and racial tensions over the Chinese merchants have led to multiple riots.  However, the on-going fights with refugees are primarily over the borders of West Papua (occupied by Indonesia) and Papuan New Guinea.  Indonesia engaged in a 50-year genocide against West Papuan natives, in which nearly 25% of the population was killed.  Because Papua New Guinea supported Indonesia, this caused a massive backlash from its Oceania neighbors against Papua New Guinea.  To ease tensions, Papua New Guinea allowed 138 West Papuan refugees to gain citizenship.  In 2017, the West Papua natives’ offered a bid for independence from Indonesia but it was rejected.  In March and April of 2018, Papua New Guinea suffered a chain of earthquakes which caused serious damage.  The other Oceania nations came to Papua New Guinea’s aid, nonetheless.

Papua New Guinea Culture

Home to nearly 7 million people, more than 1/3 of the population, lives in the rugged Highlands.  Papua New Guinea is one of the last places on earth where tribes live and where traditional subsistence cultures thrive.  The island is filled with an estimated, 7000 different cultural groups.  Some also exist, that may have never been identified.  They practice elaborate rituals of death, marriage, feasts and complex initiation rites.  It is also estimated that there are more than  800 local languages.  Pidgin (Tok Pisin,) along with English, Hiri Motu and Papua New Guinean sign language, are the official languages.  It is said to be the most linguistically diverse place on earth.  A large majority (96%) of Papua New Guineans, identify as being members of the Christian faith. The remainder are traditional animist, follow indigenous beliefs or have other practices.

Until quite recently, Papua New Guinea was well known for its practice of cannibalism.  The Korowai tribe is one of the last known tribes to practice cannibalism.  The first recorded case of Westerners meeting this tribe was in 1974. The tribe never even realized that anyone else existed outside their village.  Their belief in evil spirits made it necessary to kill and eat a person that they thought had been taken over by the demon, Khakua.

Why Visit Papua New Guinea?

Let’s just say it is not for the everyday tourist.  The Australian government warns of an array of problems: landslides, car-jackings, gang-violence, venomous snakes, and civil unrest, to name a few.  It has a very little infrastructure.  Perhaps its remoteness and the fact that is generally not a tourist destination, is why you may just choose to visit there.  It is one of the few places left where you can see how tribes live a traditional life style.

The pristine rainforests are home to many rare species of birds and insects.  The beautiful Bird of Paradise is the national bird and 38, of the known 43 species of this bird, are found there.  The Bird of paradise creates stunningly colorful courtship dances with the microscopic mirrors in their feathers.  The sighting of the rare blue and Raggiana varieties, entice birdwatchers from around the world.  Orchids abound, with more than 3000 species that are unique to the country. The national botanical garden, in the capital city of Port Moresby, has the largest collection of orchids in the southern hemisphere.  Papua New Guinea is home to the largest pigeon, the smallest parrot, the longest lizard, the largest butterfly and the tallest Araucaria tree, (which grows up to 70 meters in height,) along with the tallest tropical trees, on the planet.  It is truly one of the most biodiverse countries in the world.  It is renown for its incredibly pristine diving opportunities.  If you were to visit, you definitely should use a well-known tour operator.  It is not a place that you would just show up and try to find a hotel.  Most of the travel to Papua New Guinea is via Australia.

Papua New Guinea Food

As we look into the food of Papua New Guinea, it is based on subsistence farming.  Root vegetables are king.  Sweet potatoes, called kaukau, were introduced about 300 years ago and are a staple ingredient, as is: cassava, yams and taro root.  Sago is also very popular, along with several greens, many of which are the leaves of the root vegetables.   Pork is the meat of choice and often cooked for feasts.  Seafood is available from the rivers and coastal areas.  Chickens are raised in villages and provide them with protein and rice is also a strong part of their diet.  Local fruits are plentiful, such as: pineapples, pawpaws, mangoes, bananas and passion fruit.  Coconut in all forms is ubiquitous there.

Interestingly, there is a tribe in Papua New Guinea that was talked about quite extensively in a new diet and healthy living book called, The Plant Paradox, by Dr. Steven Gundry.  The tribe, called the Kitavans, who live on a remote island in Papua New Guinea, are one of the longest living people on the planet and seem to never suffer from heart attacks or strokes, despite their heavy smoking and other indulgences.

I highly recommend the book.  As it turns out, what we believe to be healthy eating, isn’t what we think it is.  Foods have been genetically modified and our intestinal flora compromised by them.  I found this book so compelling when I read it, that I have embarked on this diet myself and will note for you, The Plant Paradox, friendly recipes, as we continue on our Journey. If you are interested in the book you can pick up a copy here.

So let’s enjoy a typical Papua New Guinea Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Kokoda Fish (Ceviche in Coconut Cream)

Main Course

Mumu (Pork, Chicken, Greens and Root Vegetables)

Dessert

Saksak (Sago and Banana Steamed Dumpling)

We set the table with a straw mat and decorated with orchids, (which, by the way, the Sepik Blue Orchid, is their national flower.)  We placed a sweet potato, mango and coconut, to represent the typical, tropical cuisine.  We also added a wood carving, as many tribes are famous for this craft.  Pottery and shells completed the décor.  They have been traded, throughout their history, for goods, in return.

We began by saying, Hamamas, which means, Bon Appetit, in Tok Pisin.  Our first course was called Kokoda fish and it was outstanding.  Ceviche style fish is one of my favorite foods and this recipe was quick and easy to make.  The fish first needs to “cook” in the lemon juice.  It is then combined with tomatoes, cucumbers and hard-boiled egg.  It is topped with coconut cream and garlic.  Delicious!

Our main course, considered to be the national dish of Papua New Guinea, is called, mumu. It is typically cooked in a pit, steamed in banana leaves and is really a “one pot” meal.  It is made with greens, pork, chicken, taro, cassava and sweet potatoes, plus pineapple and coconut milk.  It was a lovely dish.  The combination of pork and pineapple and coupled with the creaminess of the coconut milk, was excellent.

For dessert, we had a sago pearl and banana, jelly-like, sweet dumpling, called, saksak.  It was similar in texture to  tapioca pudding.  This dessert, steamed in a banana leaf, was served drenched in warm coconut milk.  It was a perfect tropical dessert to complete our Papua New Guinea meal.

After dinner, we watched a documentary on Papua New Guinea by National Geographic.  It is such a remote island and an intriguing place, with stunning ocean waters, landscapes and intriguing people.  We would love to put Papua New Guinea on our future travel itinerary, despite the travel warnings.  How about you?

Until next time,

Tenkyu tumas (thank you)

Darlene

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

Please note that this page contains affiliate links in which I will earn a small commission however, it will in no way affect the price you pay. I thank you for your support!

How did Panama get its name?

Theories abound about how Panama got its name.  Some believe that it was named after a tree known as the Panama tree (Sterculia apetala).  Another theory is that the first settlers arrived in August, when butterflies are abundant and that the name means “many butterflies” in an indigenous language.  The most believed version is that a fishing village and beach were called Panama, which meant “an abundance of fish,”  It was discovered by the Spanish, while they explored the area in 1515, and stopped in this small fishing village.  The official definition, approved by the Ministry of Education, is that Panama means “abundance of fish, trees and butterflies.”  However, there are some that believe the name means “distant or far away” which stems from the word “bannaba” in the Kuna Language.  Today it is officially known as the Republic of Panama.

Where is Panama located?

Panama is located in Central America.  It is an “S” shaped isthmus that connects north and south America and separates the Atlantic Ocean (Caribbean Sea) from the Pacific Ocean (Gulf of Panama).  Its unique coastlines run east and west, rather than north and south.  Panama is the only place on earth where you can see the sun rise over the Pacific and set on the Atlantic.  It is also a place where, if you hike up to the highest peak, you can see both coasts on a clear day.  Panama is also blessed with no hurricanes or earthquakes, a rarity in this area.  Panama lies in between Costa Rica and Colombia.  It has a year round tropical climate, with high humidity.  This tropical environment supports an abundance of plants and jungles.  About 40 percent of Panama is wooded.  Subsistence farming is the way of life of Panamanians, from the northeastern jungles to the southwestern grasslands.   They grow mainly corn, beans, sugarcane, coffee and tubers.  There are also large banana plantations, in the swamp areas near Costa Rica.

A Brief History of Panama

The first humans that lived in Panama are believed to have arrived there around 11,000 B.C. By 2,500 B.C., the indigenous people were making pottery, and trading with others as far north as Mexico, and as far south as Peru.  The original native American tribes were, the Cocle and Cuevas people.  The Spanish were the first Europeans to arrive, in 1501.  As is typical after colonization, most of the native people died from diseases brought in by the Europeans, for which they had no immunity.  The Spanish also enslaved the native people and when they did not have enough people left, they started importing slaves from Africa.

In 1513, Vasca de Balboa made his famous trek from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, across the isthmus of Panama.  This trip was a critical turning point for Panama, in becoming a major trading center.  This was a short cut, saving ships from having to travel all the way around the cape.  For years, goods brought to the shores of Panama, trekked across the land and were put on ships bound for Spain.  It was, however, a dangerous road, nicknamed the “Camino de Cruces” or “Road of the Crosses”, due to all the people who died along the way.  Spain ruled over Panama for nearly 300 years, until Panama left the Spanish Empire and became part of Columbia.

In 1903 Colombia and Panama had a disagreement about the United States building a canal across Panama.  With the support of the USA, Panama broke away from Columbia and declared their independence on Nov 3, 1903.  There are three days celebrated each year in Panama:  November 3-5.  It begins with Separation Day, then Flag Day and ending with Colon’ Day, celebrated for when the citizens of Colon’ averted a march on Panama City by the Colombian Army.  They also celebrate their independence from Spain on November 28, each year.

The famous Panama Canal was completed in 1914 and Panama remained a US territory until 1979, when they took total control over the canal on December 31, 1999.  The canal is an artificial waterway that connects two oceans.  It was widened to allow the larger ships to pass.  The widening project was completed in June of 2016.  The canal accounts for 1/3^rd of Panamas GDP, as tolls are paid for the ships to cross.  The lowest toll was $.36  and was paid by Richard Halliburton who swam through the canal in 1928.  Today, the average fee is $54,000 for shipping vessels.  The canal has been named one of the seven wonders of the modern world.

Panama has suffered, like many countries, with dictators that did not have the people’s best interest at heart.  One such dictator was Manuel Noriega, who spent many years in US custody on drug trafficking charges.  He was then extradited to France where he spent a seven year imprisonment for money laundering.  In 2011, France extradited him back to Panama where he was incarcerated for crimes committed during his rule and where he ultimately died.  Panama has since had fair elections and even elected their first woman president in 1999.

Today Panama is on a great path of prosperity with tourism, and banking. They have excellent tax incentives for foreign investment and for Americans who want to call Panama their home.

Panama Culture

The population of Panama is a mix of creoles, mestizos, European immigrants, Africans and indigenous Indians.  It is a popular place for Americans to retire. There is also a small Chinese population.  The total population is nearly 4,000,000.  About 85 percent of the population is Roman Catholic, while traditional beliefs have been maintained among the native Americans.  The most important ritual celebrated is Carnaval, for which the capital closes down for five days, before Ash Wednesday.

The currency is the US dollar and the official language is Spanish, although many speak English and indigenous languages as well.  Panama is also famous for its traditional dress. Women wear the pollera, which is a blouse and long skirt.  It is formed by multicolored cloth and intricate embroidery.  Panama celebrates Pollera Day each July 22.   The men wear a white long sleeved shirt called a camisilla, black long pants and a straw hat with black lines.  A small bag hangs on the left side of the body and black and white shoes are worn to complete the outfit.  These costumes are worn during Carnaval, folklore events and town festivities.  Their costumes have received international praise, mainly due to the pollera’s complex design.

Why Visit Panama

Panama City is the capital city and where most of the population resides.  It is famous for its ultra-modern skyline.  Panama has become important for banking and insurance.  It is known as the financial hub of Latin America.  Aside from the tall modern buildings, Panama City also has a historic old quarter that is four avenues wide and completely filled with charm.   It is called Casca Veijo and is protected by UNESCO.  The old Quarter has narrow brick roads and grand old colonial houses with stunning pastel facades.  It is a wonderful place to enjoy dinner and drinks.  Panama City is also the only metropolis that boasts a tropical rainforest within the city limits.  The Natural Metropolitan Park is a draw for nature lovers.

Panama, having two coasts and 500 rivers, along with jungles and rain forests, makes the country an adventure traveler’s dream.  Water sports of every imaginable type are found here.  Turquoise water and golden beaches are also a huge draw, as is the canal  itself.  Home to all sorts of wildlife, there are 125 animal species found there that are found nowhere else in the world.  Panama is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 900 species.  One of the most sought after birds, the harpy eagle, can weigh up to 20 lbs. and is the national bird of Panama.

Panamanian Cuisine

Panamanian cuisine is as diverse as its population.  Each ethnic group brings its own blend of spices, recipes, ingredients and cooking methods.  The cuisine is generally a fusion of Latin, Afro-Caribbean, Asian and indigenous cultures.  Along both coasts, the diet consists mainly of coconut, seafood, root vegetables and tropical fruits.  Inland, the communities are based on agriculture, so they enjoy mainly root vegetables, plus, beans and rice and fruits.  Livestock, such as cows, chickens and pigs are also commonly eaten.  Corn is a staple ingredient but not too many greens are consumed.  However, they do use a cousin to cilantro, in their national dish called, sancocho.  Beer is popular all over the country.  Generally speaking, the cuisine is somewhat mild, except for a few spicy dishes on the Caribbean side.

So let’s enjoy a Panamanian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Ceviche de Corvina (White Sea Bass Ceviche)

Main Dish

Sancocho (Traditional Chicken Soup)

Dessert

Cocadas (Coconut Cookies)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red white and blue.  We placed orchids of purple and white, as that is the national flower of Panama, with over 1200 varieties.  A ship was added to represent the very important Panama Canal and a piggy bank to represent the financial haven Panama has become.  A butterfly represented the land of butterflies.  We included a cart of coffee, as it is an important crop and also a Panama hat (that are actually made in Ecuador) but made famous in Panama.

We began our meal with buen provencho, which means bon-appetit in Spanish.  Our starter course was an amazing white sea bass ceviche.  The dish was made with fresh white sea bass and shrimp. It also had celery, which added a wonderful texture. The fish was “cooked” in lemon juice.  It was served with chips and saltine crackers and was an immediate hit.

The main course was sancocho which in Spanish means, “to parboil.”  It is a popular dish in many Latin countries, although each country adds its own interpretation.  This sancocho is made with chicken and root vegetables, such as yam or yucca.  It is the flavoring of culantro that makes this Panamanian dish unique.  Culantro,tastes similar to cilantro, but is a bit stronger.  Ultimately, this is a hearty chicken soup that is known to cure whatever ails you, (especially a hangover.)  We loved it!

For dessert, we had delicious coconut cookies, called cocades.  They are similar to a macaroon, except they are made with sweetened, condensed milk, instead of eggs.  They were perfect with a cup of Panamanian coffee, for which they are now famous.  They grow a particular type, called Geisha that originally came from Ethiopia but has been growing very well in Panama.  This coffee lacks the bitter or sour notes and sells for about $40/lb.  You can pick some up here if you would like to try it.

After dinner, we decided to go for a dance lesson.  Panamanians love to gather together and dance.  Punto panmeño is considered to be the most elegant and beautiful of dances.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Palau get its name?

The name Palau comes from the Palauan language.  Belau, is the word for village, as is beluu or aibebalau, which relates to a creation myth. The name in the English language took a journey from the islands’ heritage.  The Spanish called it Los Palaos and then the Germans named it Palau.  Today, the official name is the Republic of Palau.

Where is Palau located?

Palau officially became a sovereign state on October 1, 1994.  Palau is made up more than 200 volcanic and coral islands, many of them surrounded by a single barrier reef in the western Pacific.  It is part of the larger island group of Micronesia and shares its maritime boundaries with Indonesia, the Philippines and the Federated States of Micronesia.

A Brief History of Palau

The first inhabitants of Palau date back to 2500 BC where they are believed to have come from present day eastern Indonesia.  They perfected their fishing, farming and developed complex social systems.

Captain Henry Wilson from England, became the first westerner to visit the islands when his vessel shipwrecked off shore in 1783.  In 1885, the Spanish asserted claims to the islands but that was short lived as the Spanish sold the islands to Germany in 1899.  The Germans did much to exploit the islands’ natural resources.  Phosphate mining began and coconut plantations popped up everywhere and cultivated for export.

When the Germans were defeated after World War I, the Japanese took over the islands.  Their reign only lasted until they lost the war in World War II.  A fierce battle between the US and Japan took its toll on the islands of Palau.  Many ship wrecks resulted, which are now dive sites, as well as too many lives lost, on both sides.  In 1947, Palau became a United Nations Trust Territory under the US administration until their Independence in 1994, as did several other Pacific nations.  Today they are independent under the Compact of Free Association with the US.  The US is responsible for their defense and financial aid and the US has the right to operate military bases on the islands.  The US dollar is the official currency of Palau and English is the official language, along with Palauan.

Palauan Culture

Despite all these outsider influences on the islands, monoliths and other relics are reminders of ancient culture and traditions that once thrived on the islands.  Today, Palauans hold strong to their heritage.  Although there are over 200 islands, only a few are inhabited.  The Koror Island is the hub where 2/3rds of the 21,000 inhabitants call home. The ethnic makeup of the islands is a mix of Micronesian, Melanesian, Asian and Western elements.  Koror is the main city and the economic hub and was also the former capital.  However, in 2006 the capital was moved to Ngerulmud, which is located on the nearby island of Babelbaob.  The other two satellite islands are Malakai and Ngerkebesang.  Tourism is the main economic driver for Palau.  Subsistence farming and fishing are also contributors to their economy.

The government is by far the largest employer on the islands.  A traditional government operates in conjunction with the federal government which sometimes creates conflicts, mainly over land rights.  Traditional matrilineal practices remain prevalent in nearly every aspect of Palauan life.  This is especially seen in funerals, marriages, inheritance and the passing of traditional titles.  One of Palau’s most important cultural symbols is the bai.  This is an impressive thatched, gable-style building that is the center of political and social life.  The beams are decorated with carvings that depict the life and the histories of the villages.  Today replicas called storyboards are sold to tourists as wonderful mementos of the islands.  Shell jewelry, watercolors and weavings are also popular tourist items.  Traditional dance, especially by women formed in two lines, is considered an art form. The men’s typical line dance includes war stances using sticks.

Why you should visit Palau

Palau is home to the most pristine waters in the world.  Most people go there to dive or snorkel and enjoy the breathtaking, white sand beaches that dot the islands’ coastlines.  Palau was the first country in the world to establish a shark sanctuary, in 2009.  They are also home to a lake called Jellyfish Lake.  It is located on the island of Eil Malk which is part of the uninhabited Rock Islands in Palau’s southern lagoon.  The Rock Islands’ southern lagoon was listed into the UNESCO world heritage sites in 2012.  The unique Rock Islands are rounded knobs of forest-capped limestone that plunges steeply into the sea.  Jellyfish Lake is connected to the ocean through fissures and tunnels in the limestone of an ancient Miocene reef.  It is a place where you used to be able to snorkel with the golden-colored jellyfish, that don’t sting. The lake is currently closed to visitors as the jellyfish were beginning to decline due to environmental issues.  They hope to be able to reopen it when the jellyfish are replenished.

Another popular area is called the Milky Way, also located in the lagoon, amongst the Rock Islands  This area is known for its white, limestone mud found on the water floor.  It is believed that it will make you look ten years younger if you lather it all over your face and body, let it dry and then rinse it off with a swim in the lagoon.

Palau’s economic growth is tied to its conservation legacy.  Its marine sanctuary ensures a vibrant future for the nation’s marine life and for its economy for years to come.  That is, as long as climate change doesn’t take its toll on the islands.  The President of Palau has to look no further than his own backyard.  When there is a full moon, due to rising sea levels, the garden his wife used to keep at the back of their house gets flooded with salt water by the high tide.  “We no longer have flowers.  We had to put them in a pot and when there is a high tide, we move them.”  According to data from the United Nation, low-lying, small islands in the Pacific are disproportionately at risk of losing land as sea levels are expected to rise by 10-32 inches by the late 21^st century.  Palau has begun looking for alternatives to relocate its population to higher ground, before it’s too late.

Food of Palau

As we look into the cuisine of Palau, it comprises what they are able to grow and catch in the surrounding Pacific Ocean.  Root vegetables like taro, pumpkin, and yams are prevalent.  Pandan, with its unique aroma  and sweetness is widely used in cooking and desserts.  Colorful, exotic fruits are plentiful, such as: dragonfruit, mango, passionfruit, breadfruit, the very healthful soursop and the queen of fruits, the rambutan.  Of course, coconut is abundant and used for flavoring everything from fish to soups.  Rice is commonly served at mealtime.  An interesting island tradition there, is that women are the only ones allowed to harvest taro.

One unique dish you will find in Palau is fruitbat soup where the fruit bat wings and head are cooked in a broth of coconut.  Fish from the sea are cooked in all different ways and also eaten raw.  The cuisine has influences from America, Japan, the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and other Pacific Islands.  A few specialties are: Tinola, a soup made with chicken, papaya and ginger, Ulkoy, a deep fried shrimp and squash fritter and Pichi-Pichi, a dessert made with coconut and cassava.

So let’s enjoy a few more Palauan specialties:

The Menu

Starter

Tuna Poke Salad

Main Dish

Grilled Snapper; Palauan Style

Dessert

Halo-Halo (Shaved Ice with Milk, Fruit and Beans)

We set the scene with plumeria. the fragrant national flower of Palau.  We decorated with a shark figurine and sea shells, representing the shark sanctuary and the stunning marine life.  A baseball glove represented baseball as the national sport, which was brought to the islands by Japan in the 1920s.  Lastly, we added tropical fruit and a grass cloth covering, along with tapa rounds to complete the island feel.

We began our meal with a tuna poke salad.  Tuna is abundant in the waters of Palau and I absolutely love raw tuna.  This dish is inspired from the Hawaii Islands in the USA.   It is an absolutely delicious salad and is very versatile.  It has avocado, tomatoes, cucumbers, shallot, scallions and pea sprouts, with diced up, sashimi grade, tuna.  It is dressed with sesame oil, light soy sauce, lime, a hint of chili powder and black sesame seeds.  Heaven in a bowl.

For the main course we made a whole snapper.  It was grilled in a banana leaf and stuffed with kaffir lime leaf, garlic and ginger.  It was covered in a mixture of dark, mushroom-flavored soy sauce and sesame oil.  The fish was grilled for about 15 minutes (until tender and flaky.)  We served the fish whole, with white, steamed rice, flavored with the same mushroom, soy sauce and sesame oil.  The result was a quick, easy and sumptuous main dish that makes you feel like you are on a tropical island.  We loved it!

For dessert we enjoyed Halo-halo (pronounced hollow-hollow).  It is perfect for a hot, summer, tropical day.  It is a simple bowl of shaved ice that is covered with a bit of sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.  It is then topped with nata de coco, which is a jelly-like square that comes in different colors and flavors.  It also has some sweet red, mung beans and jackfruit .  It is finished with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  Halo-halo was a welcomed, cool and refreshing dessert to end our Palauan meal.  All in all we said “Ng ungil a chasi er ngii”  which means “It tastes good!”

After dinner we decided to treat ourselves to a mud spa.  Although I could not get the Milky Way mud, I did find a spa mud, in hopes of looking ten years younger.  If it doesn’t do the trick, a trip to Palau is in order.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful, tropical paradise, called Palau,  I leave you with a Palauan proverb.  “A ungil el merreder a ua chull el melemedem er a daob” Translated it means, “A good leader is like rain that calms the ocean.”

Until next time,

Thank you, (Ke kmal mesaul) Pronounced Kuk-MAHL-ma-SAHL

Darlene

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