How did Peru get its name?

Garcilaso de la Vega, was the first one to shed light of how Peru got its name.  Vega was born, the son of a Spanish conquistador and an Incan princess, in 1539.  He was one of the first to write detailed accounts of the Incas and Spanish conquests in Peru.  His book was published in 1609, was called, The Royal Commentaries of the Incas.

The story goes that in 1513, Spaniard Vasco Nunez de Balboa discovered the South Sea.  He spotted a native Indian who was quietly fishing at the mouth of an estuary.  His crew captured the native and hauled him aboard the boat.  After finally calming him down, the Spanish attempted to ask him questions about the unknown land.  Scared and confused but wanting to please his captors, he blurted out the word Beru, which was actually his name.  He then blurted out a second word, Pelu, which means, “river” in the Inca language.  The Spanish combined the two words to create what we know the country to be called today; Peru.  (The Incas and natives knew their country as Ttahuatin-Suya, meaning, “the four-quarters of the world.”)

Where is Peru Located?

Peru is located on the western border of South America.  Her neighbors are Ecuador and Columbia to the north, Brazil to the east, Bolivia to the southeast, Chile to the south and the Pacific Ocean to the west.  It is the third largest country on the continent, behind Argentina and Brazil.  Lima is the capital city and its main economic hub.

Peru has enormous biodiversity, with ninety distinct microclimates.  It is listed among the ten most biodiverse countries in the world.  The coastal plain, (costa) is a narrow strip of desert land that runs the length of the country.  There is an upland region, (sierra) the highland, which includes the very high mountain ranges of the Andes, as well as gorges and deep valleys.  There are many rivers that are born in the Andes and descend to the Pacific, allowing for irrigation to serve a very arid region.  The east is home to the tropical Amazon basin’s rain forest, jungle (selva), and the Amazon River.  Lake Titicaca, lies between Peru and Bolivia and is the largest lake in all of South America.  It is also the highest in altitude, navigable lake in all the world.  In Andean belief, Lake Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun.  Its waters are renowned for stillness and bright reflections.  Jacques Cousteau discovered ruins of an ancient city under the lake’s surface, He also discovered the descendants of the Quechua people, who still live on the islands today.

A Brief History of Peru

Peru has an ancient history, stemming from various tribal groups that lived there.  In the 12^th century, the small city state of Cuzco was formed by the Killkes tribe.  This began the formidable era of the Incan Empire.  Over the next several hundred years, the Incas managed to conquer not only Peru but also parts of Ecuador, Bolivia and northern Chile.  They had a highly developed civilization when the Spanish arrived there in 1531.  Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, conquered and captured Cuzco in 1533.  Peru was a great source of wealth and power for the Spanish, mostly from the gold and silver discovered in the Andes Mountains.  In 1535, Pizarro established Lima as the capital of Peru, which remains so today.  With the help of others, from Bolivia and Venezuela, Peru was able to defeat the Spanish and become a free country in 1821, when they declared their independence.

Like many newly independent countries, Peru went through a difficult time with coups, dictatorships, military rule and wars with guerilla groups fighting against the government.  In recent history, Alberto Fujimori, won three consecutive terms, despite being accused of fraud.  He then stunned the nation when he resigned during a trip to Japan.  Revelations that Fujimori secretly held Japanese citizenship outraged the populace, since he could not be extradited to face corruption charges.  Eventually he ended up in Chile to pursue his political ambitions.  There he was arrested and sentenced to 25 years in prison.  He was recently pardoned, after serving only 12 years, as he is suffering from cancer.  The pardon caused outrage, once again.  Despite Fujimori’s crimes against humanity, he did some good things for the economy, which continues to thrive.  Their economy is dependent on its many commodities, but prices do fluctuate with the world markets.  They are the world’s second largest producer of silver and copper. They are the sixth largest producer of gold; mining 162 tons of gold a year.  Peru’s coastal waters provide for excellent fishing grounds.  Fish and agriculture are very important to their growing economy, as are minerals and natural resources.  Tourism continues to contribute more than ever to this nation’s economic growth.

Peruvian Culture

With more than 10,000 years of history, Peru is filled with a great wealth of culture and tradition.  As the oldest civilization in South America, Peru is home to many riches.  Peruvians fully recognize the importance today of their heritage and the value the Andes and the Amazon offer in natural resources and ancient traditions.

Spanish is the official language, along with Quechua and Aymara.  There are 45 other native languages that are spoken as well.  Catholicism is the predominant religion in Peru and is very important in the lives of Peruvians.  Yet they exist peacefully alongside other belief systems including indigenous beliefs, with shamans and medicine men playing important roles.

The coca plant (the same one used to make cocaine) has been used for thousands of years in the Andean world.  It is used for its medicinal properties and religious significance.  Coca leaves, which are brewed in tea, are particularly effective against altitude sickness, which is helpful at high elevations.

Since pre-Hispanic times, music and dance have played vital roles in Peruvian society.  Ancient Peruvians used seashells and reeds, along with animal bones, to produce sounds.  Weaving is another prominent art form in Peru.  It is believed that every form of weaving known today, was invented by the Peruvians.  It is estimated it takes somewhere between 500 to 600 hours to spin, dye and weave a traditional poncho.  They are typically given as gifts to one who enters adulthood and it is expected to last them a lifetime.

In Cuzco, Peruvian history is displayed in the architecture.  Here you will find Spanish, colonial style churches and dwellings built directly on top of their old Incan stone temples.

Why Visit Peru?

Peru, being home to amazing biodiversity, is one of the most unique and colorful places to visit on the planet.  Peru has 25,000 plant species, it ranks first in the world in distinct fish species, second for species of birds and third for amphibians and mammals.  It is home to 12 UNESCO world heritage sites, including the famous Machu Picchu that was recently deemed one of the Seven New Wonders of the World.  It was uncovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham and today displays the pride and complexity of the ancient Inca civilization as one of the most popular tourist destinations. The stone work, masterfully constructed to be seismically stable, is one of the mysteries of this ancient site.

Peru is also home to numerous natural wonders, including Rainbow Mountain and the Painted Hills, where mineral deposits color the landscape like a rainbow. The Cerro Blanco sand dune, located in the south of Peru, is the highest in the world.  Peru’s Nazca Lines, are a collection of more than 70, giant, human and animal geoglyphs.  There are 10,000 lines, some of them are up to 30 miles long and it remains one of the world’s biggest, archeological mysteries that was never even discovered until man took flight.  The Andes, the beautiful coastlines, deserts, the Amazon basin and rivers, and Lake Titicaca are all great reasons to visit Peru.  However, it may just be worth a visit there for the gastronomy alone; it is one of the best cuisines in all the world.

Peruvian Cuisine

The diversity of Peru’s agricultural production comes from its microclimates and varied geography.  Peru’s multiple cultures along with the brilliance of her chefs, have enriched the cuisine to the point of it being recognized as one of the best in the world.  Gastronomy has become such an important element in the lives of Peruvians, it is part of the national identity.  The cuisine of Peru is both ancient and modern.  It is a fusion of the indigenous population along with contributions of immigrants from Europe, (mainly Spain, Italy and Germany), Asia (China and Japan) and West Africa.   Imagine a cuisine where there are the over 3800 varieties of potatoes.  Corn is available in every color, shape and size, along with rich grains, like quinoa.  We certainly can’t forget the abundant seafood, especially their amazing ceviche, available all along the coast.  High in the Andean region, cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca, are popular sources of meat.  It is, however, the native aji chilies, pureed into amazing sauces, that just might be their most delicious contribution.  The flavors of Peruvian cuisine are bold, rich, and spicy.  Yet they can be subtle and complex, as well.  You will certainly want to enjoy the amazing flavors of this cuisine with their famous pisco sour; Peru’s national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Peruvian Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Peruvian Ceviche (Peru’s National Dish)

Main Dish

Split Roasted Chicken (Pollo a la Brasa)

Served with

Two Peruvian Sauces ( Aji Verde & Aji de Huacatay)

Dessert

Caramel Meringue Parfait (Suspiro de Limena)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red and white.  We placed dolls, hand crafted by natives, to represent the Incan empire, a photo of the magnificent Machu Picchu, a yellow aji pepper, silver and gold coins to represent their wealth, potatoes, a rope, with knots, representing the ancient system of record keeping, called quipus, a penguin statue (yes they have penguins in Peru), and palm fronds to represent the Amazon rain forest.  Finally, a soccer ball was added, as it is their national sport.

Our first course was ceviche; the national dish of Peru.  Ceviche is so loved and is part of its national heritage.  It actually has its own holiday on June 28^th of each year.  This ceviche was one of the best we have ever had.  It was unique in that, besides the delectable seabass, it had sweet potatoes and giant kernels of toasted corn.  It was flavored with aji peppers, red onion and a citrusy flavored marinade, made with fresh lemon and lime.  The ceviche was served with the marinade, in the tradition of cevicherias and is called, leche de tigre or “tigers milk.”

For the main course we had their famous, pollo a la brasa.  This dish is loved in Peru but may be more famous in the USA.  It just may be the best chicken ever.  It was a split, roasted chicken, lightly seasoned with vinegar, cumin and pepper.  It was tender and succulent.  But it’s the sauces, for which the Peruvians are so famous, and into which you dip the bites of chicken, that make the dish.  The two sauces we had were, aji verde and aji de huacatay,  (which was my favorite.)  Both sauces are phenomenal and the dishes you can use them on are endless.  The aji verde is very common and flavored with aji paste, chilies, cilantro, lime, garlic, oil, cheese and mayo, all blended together.  The aji de huacatay is also made with cilantro, aji paste, garlic, and oil but has the addition of huacatay paste, which can be found in your Latin market.  Huacatay is a fresh herb, that tastes somewhere between basil and mint.  It is sometimes called black mint and is related to the marigold and tarragon families.  These sauces were off the charts, amazing.  We actually did not have a side dish, but potatoes, cooked anyway you like, would be a great accompaniment  and totally authentic.

For dessert we enjoyed suspiro de limena, which is a caramel meringue, parfait that is exceptionally sweet and delicious.  The name of the dessert, literally translated means, “the sigh of a Lima lady.”  I think that pretty much sums it up.

After our feast, we took our pisco sours, (made with Peruvian pisco, as the base liquor and lime, which makes up the sour, along with bitters, egg whites and a simple syrup,) to enjoy, as we watched Wild Peru, by National Geographic.  This film highlights the amazing biodiversity of the land and sea of Peru.  Did you know you can swim with pink dolphins there?  By the way, Peru also has a national holiday, in honor of the cocktail, pisco sour, which happens the first Saturday of every February.

I leave you with my favorite Peruvian Proverb:

“It is better to prevent than cure.”

Until next time

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

How did Paraguay get its name?

There are many theories as to how Paraguay got its name, but the most compelling one comes from the Guarani language and the river that shares the same name.  In the Guarani language, para (ocean) and gua (to or from) y (water/river).  Put all those together and it means the “river that goes to the ocean” or “river that gives birth to the sea.”

Where is Paraguay located?

Paraguay’s nickname is “Corazon de Sudamerica,”  “The heart of South America.“  Its nickname is due to its location in the center of the South American continent.  It is a landlocked country that borders Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia.  It lies on both banks of the Paraguay River, which runs through the country from north to south.  The capital city of Asuncion is located on the banks of the river, in the southwestern part of the country.  It is also part of the Triple Frontier, which has a tri-border area where the Igauzu and the Ptarana rivers converge.  In Paraguay, the city is called Cuidad Del Este, which is the closest city from which to see the magnificent Iguazu Falls, that makes up the largest waterfall system in the world.  Iguazu Falls is one of the new, natural Seven Wonders of the World.  The western region, known as Chaco, has 60 percent of the country’s land but only two percent of the population lives there.  The majority of the population lives within 100 miles of the capital city.

A Brief History of Paraguay

The original inhabitants of Paraguay were the Guarani people.  They were farmers.  The Spanish arrived in the 16^th century and founded the capital city of Asuncion in 1537.  Paraguay was one of the first to gain independence from Spain in 1811.  This was due mainly to its lack of precious ores.  Jose Gaspar Rodriguez Francis became the first of a long line of dictators that ruled the country.  In 1865, the war of the Triple Alliance began and was a total disaster for Paraguay.  The war was with Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay and lasted until 1870.  Nearly 2/3^rd’s of the male population were killed during this war and Paraguay lost much of its territory, including Iguazu Falls.

Another war broke out, called the Chaco War, from 1932-1935, in which Paraguay won against Bolivia, winning back some of its western territory.  Dictators ruled the land until 1989, when General Andres Rodriguez overthrew Stoessner, who was accused of torturing and murdering thousands of political opponents.  Rodriguez went on to win Paraguay’s first multi-candidate elections.  In 1992, Paraguay’s constitutional reforms finally gave equal rights to women. They were one of the last South American countries to give women the right to vote, in 1961.

Today, Paraguay is experiencing excellent economic growth and is considered to be much more stable, both politically and economically.  Unfortunately, however, the distribution of wealth is tragically unequal.  80% of the land is held by only 2.5% of the people, with 161 people controlling 90% of the country’s wealth.  It is estimated that half the population lives below the poverty line.

Paraguay, along with Brazil, built the largest dam in the world in 1984 (that is until China surpassed it in 2008.) Named the Itaipu Dam, it is used for hydro-electric power, which is a major export for the country.  The dam supplies 75% of Paraguay’s electricity.  Paraguay also exports sugarcane, soybeans, stevia, corn, wheat, tobacco, cassava, fruits, vegetables, beef, pork, eggs, milk and timber.  Over half of Paraguayans work in agriculture and forestry.

Paraguayan Culture

As the Guarani were the primary occupants of Paraguay when the Spanish arrived, many of them took Guarani wives creating a mestizo culture, which is 95 percent of the population today.  Paraguay is one of the few countries in the world that kept their indigenous language as an official language, also called Guarani, along with Spanish.  Some speak Jopara which is a mix of the two.  The Guarani language is an onomatopoeic language, whereby many of its words, like its music, imitate the natural sounds of animals and the natural environment.

Jesuit missionaries established missions in Paraguay.  There are well preserved Jesuit ruins that date back to 1706, which have been named a UNESCO world heritage site and is the only site named in Paraguay.  The Spanish expelled the Jesuits from Paraguay in the mid 18^th century, for which Pope Francis recently issued an apology for the colonial era crimes committed. Today 88% of the population is Catholic, 8% protestant and the balance, indigenous beliefs.

The art of lace making called nanduti, is a prized craft.  It is a wheel based, lace form that originated in Portugal and Spain.  In fact, nanduti actually means “spider web.”  The Paraguayans have put their unique spin on the craft, adding palm leaf shapes to the design.  A festival is held in the town of Itaugua each July, where visitors can watch the lovely lace being made.

Music and dance are other examples of fusion between the Spanish and Guarani cultures.  In rural areas, people play instruments of the indigenous people, including flutes made from sugarcane and rattles made from gourds.  The early conquistadors brought the Spanish guitar and Spanish harp to Paraguay.  These two instruments remain prominent in the music of Paraguay.

The Paraguayans are known for a specific dance, in which they move with an impressive stack of bottles on top of their heads.  There is a vase dance as well, both of which are performed by women. A couple’s dance, known as the Paraguayan Polka, is danced in ballrooms, and on village dance floors, it was created in the 19^th century.

Why Visit Paraguay?

Paraguay is one of the least visited countries in South America, which is precisely why you should want to go.  The fact that it has never built up its tourist infrastructure, is its greatest charm.  This is truly a place where you can get off the beaten track and experience local life.  It is considered safe and the real joy is, the Paraguayan people, who are known to be exceptionally friendly and welcoming.  You will, however, want to have a Spanish/Guarani dictionary handy, as English is not widely spoken.  Buses are the main form of transportation for both locals and tourists alike.  Whether you go to visit the falls, the chaotic, but shopping friendly, city of Cuidad del Este, or to explore the unique flora and fauna that make up the country, there is plenty to see and do in this little known and often misunderstood country of Paraguay.

Paraguayan Food

As Paraguay is not a wealthy country, much of the culture revolves around family and simple pleasures.  You will see groups of people sitting around under the shade of a tree, drinking the traditional tea, such as a drink, called terere.  What yerba mate is to Argentina, terere is to Paraguay.  It is mate but with herbs and enjoyed cold, instead of hot.  You will see everyone carrying a thermos and a gourd with a straw, called a bombilla.

Sopa Paraguaya is considered to be the national dish and is often eaten daily.  Despite its name, it is more similar to a cornbread than a soup.  Chipas are found on nearly every street corner.  This is a cheese bread, made with cassava flour and is similar in texture to a bagel.  Empanadas, milanesa and asados, are also popular and enjoyed in Paraguay, just like with her neighbors.  Generally speaking, Paraguayan cuisine is typically South American.  Fish and meat stews and soups are the norm.  Probably the ingredient that is most used, is mandioca, also known as yucca or cassava, which is somewhat similar to potatoes. They are a native crop and served with nearly every meal.  In fact , it is so common there is a local saying, “Mas Paraguayo que al mandioca” (More Paraguayan than the mandioca). You can also find sushi, schnitzel and shrimp on the barbie, as a result of the Japanese, German and Australian settlements there.

So let’s enjoy a Paraguayan meal:

The Menu

Starter

Payagua Mescada (Paraguayan Tortilla)

Main Course

Bife Koygua (Paraguayan Beef Stew)

Dessert

Crema (A Paraguayan Custard)

Bonus (The National Dish)

Sopa Paraguaya (Cornbread with Egg and Cheese)

We set the scene with the colors of the Paraguayan flag; red white and blue.  We added a gourd, a bombilla, mate, as well as a mandioca/yuca, root.  A soccer ball and fishing net were added, as they are both important sports in the country. We included a photo of the beautiful national tree called the Pink Lapacho, whose inner bark lining is made into a tea, and is also well known for its medicinal value.

We began by saying, Pekaruporante,  which means Bon Appetit, in Guarani.  Our first course was called Payagua Mescada, which means, Paraguayan tortilla.  It is not, however, what you would typically think of as a tortilla.  It is made with their staple ingredient, the yuca or cassava root.  It is more like a fritter than a tortilla.  It is served with beef and yuca root and deep fried, until golden brown.  It was a perfect start to our Paraguayan feast.

The main course was called Bife Koygua and is a typical Paraguayan beef stew.  We completely understood why this is a cherished dish; tender steak, with veggies and a perfectly cooked egg on top.  Bife Koygua is a true comfort food that I will make again and again.

For dessert, we enjoyed a super easy and delectable custard dessert, simply called crema.  This creamy custard is made with eggs, milk and sugar. It had a hint of lemon and was sprinkled with cinnamon.  We enjoyed it with their traditional tea, called terere, which is ubiquitous there.

As a bonus, I included the recipe for their national dish called, Sopa Paraguaya.  It is not a soup at all, but a delicious cornbread that also goes great with terere.

As we say goodbye to this little known country of Paraguay, I leave you with a few Paraguayan proverbs:

“Be grateful with what you have rather than what you think might be out there.”

“If you think the worst, you won’t be far wrong.”

Until next time,

Jajotopata,  which means, “goodbye”, in Guarani.

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

Craving even more?  Be sure to join the culinary and cultural journey around the world so you don’t miss a thing,  it’s free,  You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook ,  Pinterest and youtube to follow along our journey.

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How did Papua New Guinea get its Name?

Papua is the original name of the island, which is the second largest island in the world, after Greenland.  It is believed that the word Papua means “frizzy hair,” which was used to describe the Melanesians that resided there. Later, when the Spanish arrived, it was called New Guinea because of the similarity in the look of the local population, with those the explorer had encountered off the coast of Guinea in Africa; Hence the name, Papua New Guinea.

Where is Papua New Guinea Located?

Papua New Guinea is an Oceanian country and occupies the eastern half of the Island of New Guinea.  It lies just north of Australia.  It shares the island with Indonesia, who occupies the western half of the island, known as the Province of West Papua or (Irian Jaya). To the north and east are the islands of Manus, New Britain, New Ireland and Bougainville.  All of these islands are part of Papua New Guinea.

A Brief History of Papua New Guinea

Prehistory of Papua New Guinea dates back some 60,000 years when descendants from Africa first migrated toward the Australian continent.  The first known Europeans to sight New Guinea, were most likely Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the early part of the 16^th century.  Europeans explored the coastlines and found artifacts that included: bone, wood and stone tools, as well as a productive agricultural system.  It was 1870, when the Russian anthropologist, Nicholai Miklukho-Makai, made a number of expeditions to New Guinea and documented his several years of living among native tribes.

The British and Germans held parts of the island until 1902, when it was placed under the authority of the Commonwealth of Australia.  Shortly after the Pacific War began, in 1941, the island was invaded by the Japanese.  Brutal attacks occurred.  It was an area of a major military campaign, where 200,000 Japanese military men lost their lives along with 14,000 Australian and American service personnel.  Following the war, Papua New Guinea was placed under the International Trusteeship System.  They gained their independence on September 16, 1975 and shortly thereafter, joined the United Nations.

As with most newly independent nations, Papua New Guinea has had numerous challenges and fights between rebels, natives and government.  Numerous Chinese have immigrated to Papua New Guinea and racial tensions over the Chinese merchants have led to multiple riots.  However, the on-going fights with refugees are primarily over the borders of West Papua (occupied by Indonesia) and Papuan New Guinea.  Indonesia engaged in a 50-year genocide against West Papuan natives, in which nearly 25% of the population was killed.  Because Papua New Guinea supported Indonesia, this caused a massive backlash from its Oceania neighbors against Papua New Guinea.  To ease tensions, Papua New Guinea allowed 138 West Papuan refugees to gain citizenship.  In 2017, the West Papua natives’ offered a bid for independence from Indonesia but it was rejected.  In March and April of 2018, Papua New Guinea suffered a chain of earthquakes which caused serious damage.  The other Oceania nations came to Papua New Guinea’s aid, nonetheless.

Papua New Guinea Culture

Home to nearly 7 million people, more than 1/3 of the population, lives in the rugged Highlands.  Papua New Guinea is one of the last places on earth where tribes live and where traditional subsistence cultures thrive.  The island is filled with an estimated, 7000 different cultural groups.  Some also exist, that may have never been identified.  They practice elaborate rituals of death, marriage, feasts and complex initiation rites.  It is also estimated that there are more than  800 local languages.  Pidgin (Tok Pisin,) along with English, Hiri Motu and Papua New Guinean sign language, are the official languages.  It is said to be the most linguistically diverse place on earth.  A large majority (96%) of Papua New Guineans, identify as being members of the Christian faith. The remainder are traditional animist, follow indigenous beliefs or have other practices.

Until quite recently, Papua New Guinea was well known for its practice of cannibalism.  The Korowai tribe is one of the last known tribes to practice cannibalism.  The first recorded case of Westerners meeting this tribe was in 1974. The tribe never even realized that anyone else existed outside their village.  Their belief in evil spirits made it necessary to kill and eat a person that they thought had been taken over by the demon, Khakua.

Why Visit Papua New Guinea?

Let’s just say it is not for the everyday tourist.  The Australian government warns of an array of problems: landslides, car-jackings, gang-violence, venomous snakes, and civil unrest, to name a few.  It has a very little infrastructure.  Perhaps its remoteness and the fact that is generally not a tourist destination, is why you may just choose to visit there.  It is one of the few places left where you can see how tribes live a traditional life style.

The pristine rainforests are home to many rare species of birds and insects.  The beautiful Bird of Paradise is the national bird and 38, of the known 43 species of this bird, are found there.  The Bird of paradise creates stunningly colorful courtship dances with the microscopic mirrors in their feathers.  The sighting of the rare blue and Raggiana varieties, entice birdwatchers from around the world.  Orchids abound, with more than 3000 species that are unique to the country. The national botanical garden, in the capital city of Port Moresby, has the largest collection of orchids in the southern hemisphere.  Papua New Guinea is home to the largest pigeon, the smallest parrot, the longest lizard, the largest butterfly and the tallest Araucaria tree, (which grows up to 70 meters in height,) along with the tallest tropical trees, on the planet.  It is truly one of the most biodiverse countries in the world.  It is renown for its incredibly pristine diving opportunities.  If you were to visit, you definitely should use a well-known tour operator.  It is not a place that you would just show up and try to find a hotel.  Most of the travel to Papua New Guinea is via Australia.

Papua New Guinea Food

As we look into the food of Papua New Guinea, it is based on subsistence farming.  Root vegetables are king.  Sweet potatoes, called kaukau, were introduced about 300 years ago and are a staple ingredient, as is: cassava, yams and taro root.  Sago is also very popular, along with several greens, many of which are the leaves of the root vegetables.   Pork is the meat of choice and often cooked for feasts.  Seafood is available from the rivers and coastal areas.  Chickens are raised in villages and provide them with protein and rice is also a strong part of their diet.  Local fruits are plentiful, such as: pineapples, pawpaws, mangoes, bananas and passion fruit.  Coconut in all forms is ubiquitous there.

Interestingly, there is a tribe in Papua New Guinea that was talked about quite extensively in a new diet and healthy living book called, The Plant Paradox, by Dr. Steven Gundry.  The tribe, called the Kitavans, who live on a remote island in Papua New Guinea, are one of the longest living people on the planet and seem to never suffer from heart attacks or strokes, despite their heavy smoking and other indulgences.

I highly recommend the book.  As it turns out, what we believe to be healthy eating, isn’t what we think it is.  Foods have been genetically modified and our intestinal flora compromised by them.  I found this book so compelling when I read it, that I have embarked on this diet myself and will note for you, The Plant Paradox, friendly recipes, as we continue on our Journey. If you are interested in the book you can pick up a copy here.

So let’s enjoy a typical Papua New Guinea Meal:

The Menu

Starter

Kokoda Fish (Ceviche in Coconut Cream)

Main Course

Mumu (Pork, Chicken, Greens and Root Vegetables)

Dessert

Saksak (Sago and Banana Steamed Dumpling)

We set the table with a straw mat and decorated with orchids, (which, by the way, the Sepik Blue Orchid, is their national flower.)  We placed a sweet potato, mango and coconut, to represent the typical, tropical cuisine.  We also added a wood carving, as many tribes are famous for this craft.  Pottery and shells completed the décor.  They have been traded, throughout their history, for goods, in return.

We began by saying, Hamamas, which means, Bon Appetit, in Tok Pisin.  Our first course was called Kokoda fish and it was outstanding.  Ceviche style fish is one of my favorite foods and this recipe was quick and easy to make.  The fish first needs to “cook” in the lemon juice.  It is then combined with tomatoes, cucumbers and hard-boiled egg.  It is topped with coconut cream and garlic.  Delicious!

Our main course, considered to be the national dish of Papua New Guinea, is called, mumu. It is typically cooked in a pit, steamed in banana leaves and is really a “one pot” meal.  It is made with greens, pork, chicken, taro, cassava and sweet potatoes, plus pineapple and coconut milk.  It was a lovely dish.  The combination of pork and pineapple and coupled with the creaminess of the coconut milk, was excellent.

For dessert, we had a sago pearl and banana, jelly-like, sweet dumpling, called, saksak.  It was similar in texture to  tapioca pudding.  This dessert, steamed in a banana leaf, was served drenched in warm coconut milk.  It was a perfect tropical dessert to complete our Papua New Guinea meal.

After dinner, we watched a documentary on Papua New Guinea by National Geographic.  It is such a remote island and an intriguing place, with stunning ocean waters, landscapes and intriguing people.  We would love to put Papua New Guinea on our future travel itinerary, despite the travel warnings.  How about you?

Until next time,

Tenkyu tumas (thank you)

Darlene

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How did Panama get its name?

Theories abound about how Panama got its name.  Some believe that it was named after a tree known as the Panama tree (Sterculia apetala).  Another theory is that the first settlers arrived in August, when butterflies are abundant and that the name means “many butterflies” in an indigenous language.  The most believed version is that a fishing village and beach were called Panama, which meant “an abundance of fish,”  It was discovered by the Spanish, while they explored the area in 1515, and stopped in this small fishing village.  The official definition, approved by the Ministry of Education, is that Panama means “abundance of fish, trees and butterflies.”  However, there are some that believe the name means “distant or far away” which stems from the word “bannaba” in the Kuna Language.  Today it is officially known as the Republic of Panama.

Where is Panama located?

Panama is located in Central America.  It is an “S” shaped isthmus that connects north and south America and separates the Atlantic Ocean (Caribbean Sea) from the Pacific Ocean (Gulf of Panama).  Its unique coastlines run east and west, rather than north and south.  Panama is the only place on earth where you can see the sun rise over the Pacific and set on the Atlantic.  It is also a place where, if you hike up to the highest peak, you can see both coasts on a clear day.  Panama is also blessed with no hurricanes or earthquakes, a rarity in this area.  Panama lies in between Costa Rica and Colombia.  It has a year round tropical climate, with high humidity.  This tropical environment supports an abundance of plants and jungles.  About 40 percent of Panama is wooded.  Subsistence farming is the way of life of Panamanians, from the northeastern jungles to the southwestern grasslands.   They grow mainly corn, beans, sugarcane, coffee and tubers.  There are also large banana plantations, in the swamp areas near Costa Rica.

A Brief History of Panama

The first humans that lived in Panama are believed to have arrived there around 11,000 B.C. By 2,500 B.C., the indigenous people were making pottery, and trading with others as far north as Mexico, and as far south as Peru.  The original native American tribes were, the Cocle and Cuevas people.  The Spanish were the first Europeans to arrive, in 1501.  As is typical after colonization, most of the native people died from diseases brought in by the Europeans, for which they had no immunity.  The Spanish also enslaved the native people and when they did not have enough people left, they started importing slaves from Africa.

In 1513, Vasca de Balboa made his famous trek from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, across the isthmus of Panama.  This trip was a critical turning point for Panama, in becoming a major trading center.  This was a short cut, saving ships from having to travel all the way around the cape.  For years, goods brought to the shores of Panama, trekked across the land and were put on ships bound for Spain.  It was, however, a dangerous road, nicknamed the “Camino de Cruces” or “Road of the Crosses”, due to all the people who died along the way.  Spain ruled over Panama for nearly 300 years, until Panama left the Spanish Empire and became part of Columbia.

In 1903 Colombia and Panama had a disagreement about the United States building a canal across Panama.  With the support of the USA, Panama broke away from Columbia and declared their independence on Nov 3, 1903.  There are three days celebrated each year in Panama:  November 3-5.  It begins with Separation Day, then Flag Day and ending with Colon’ Day, celebrated for when the citizens of Colon’ averted a march on Panama City by the Colombian Army.  They also celebrate their independence from Spain on November 28, each year.

The famous Panama Canal was completed in 1914 and Panama remained a US territory until 1979, when they took total control over the canal on December 31, 1999.  The canal is an artificial waterway that connects two oceans.  It was widened to allow the larger ships to pass.  The widening project was completed in June of 2016.  The canal accounts for 1/3^rd of Panamas GDP, as tolls are paid for the ships to cross.  The lowest toll was $.36  and was paid by Richard Halliburton who swam through the canal in 1928.  Today, the average fee is $54,000 for shipping vessels.  The canal has been named one of the seven wonders of the modern world.

Panama has suffered, like many countries, with dictators that did not have the people’s best interest at heart.  One such dictator was Manuel Noriega, who spent many years in US custody on drug trafficking charges.  He was then extradited to France where he spent a seven year imprisonment for money laundering.  In 2011, France extradited him back to Panama where he was incarcerated for crimes committed during his rule and where he ultimately died.  Panama has since had fair elections and even elected their first woman president in 1999.

Today Panama is on a great path of prosperity with tourism, and banking. They have excellent tax incentives for foreign investment and for Americans who want to call Panama their home.

Panama Culture

The population of Panama is a mix of creoles, mestizos, European immigrants, Africans and indigenous Indians.  It is a popular place for Americans to retire. There is also a small Chinese population.  The total population is nearly 4,000,000.  About 85 percent of the population is Roman Catholic, while traditional beliefs have been maintained among the native Americans.  The most important ritual celebrated is Carnaval, for which the capital closes down for five days, before Ash Wednesday.

The currency is the US dollar and the official language is Spanish, although many speak English and indigenous languages as well.  Panama is also famous for its traditional dress. Women wear the pollera, which is a blouse and long skirt.  It is formed by multicolored cloth and intricate embroidery.  Panama celebrates Pollera Day each July 22.   The men wear a white long sleeved shirt called a camisilla, black long pants and a straw hat with black lines.  A small bag hangs on the left side of the body and black and white shoes are worn to complete the outfit.  These costumes are worn during Carnaval, folklore events and town festivities.  Their costumes have received international praise, mainly due to the pollera’s complex design.

Why Visit Panama

Panama City is the capital city and where most of the population resides.  It is famous for its ultra-modern skyline.  Panama has become important for banking and insurance.  It is known as the financial hub of Latin America.  Aside from the tall modern buildings, Panama City also has a historic old quarter that is four avenues wide and completely filled with charm.   It is called Casca Veijo and is protected by UNESCO.  The old Quarter has narrow brick roads and grand old colonial houses with stunning pastel facades.  It is a wonderful place to enjoy dinner and drinks.  Panama City is also the only metropolis that boasts a tropical rainforest within the city limits.  The Natural Metropolitan Park is a draw for nature lovers.

Panama, having two coasts and 500 rivers, along with jungles and rain forests, makes the country an adventure traveler’s dream.  Water sports of every imaginable type are found here.  Turquoise water and golden beaches are also a huge draw, as is the canal  itself.  Home to all sorts of wildlife, there are 125 animal species found there that are found nowhere else in the world.  Panama is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 900 species.  One of the most sought after birds, the harpy eagle, can weigh up to 20 lbs. and is the national bird of Panama.

Panamanian Cuisine

Panamanian cuisine is as diverse as its population.  Each ethnic group brings its own blend of spices, recipes, ingredients and cooking methods.  The cuisine is generally a fusion of Latin, Afro-Caribbean, Asian and indigenous cultures.  Along both coasts, the diet consists mainly of coconut, seafood, root vegetables and tropical fruits.  Inland, the communities are based on agriculture, so they enjoy mainly root vegetables, plus, beans and rice and fruits.  Livestock, such as cows, chickens and pigs are also commonly eaten.  Corn is a staple ingredient but not too many greens are consumed.  However, they do use a cousin to cilantro, in their national dish called, sancocho.  Beer is popular all over the country.  Generally speaking, the cuisine is somewhat mild, except for a few spicy dishes on the Caribbean side.

So let’s enjoy a Panamanian meal:

The Menu

Starter

Ceviche de Corvina (White Sea Bass Ceviche)

Main Dish

Sancocho (Traditional Chicken Soup)

Dessert

Cocadas (Coconut Cookies)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red white and blue.  We placed orchids of purple and white, as that is the national flower of Panama, with over 1200 varieties.  A ship was added to represent the very important Panama Canal and a piggy bank to represent the financial haven Panama has become.  A butterfly represented the land of butterflies.  We included a cart of coffee, as it is an important crop and also a Panama hat (that are actually made in Ecuador) but made famous in Panama.

We began our meal with buen provencho, which means bon-appetit in Spanish.  Our starter course was an amazing white sea bass ceviche.  The dish was made with fresh white sea bass and shrimp. It also had celery, which added a wonderful texture. The fish was “cooked” in lemon juice.  It was served with chips and saltine crackers and was an immediate hit.

The main course was sancocho which in Spanish means, “to parboil.”  It is a popular dish in many Latin countries, although each country adds its own interpretation.  This sancocho is made with chicken and root vegetables, such as yam or yucca.  It is the flavoring of culantro that makes this Panamanian dish unique.  Culantro,tastes similar to cilantro, but is a bit stronger.  Ultimately, this is a hearty chicken soup that is known to cure whatever ails you, (especially a hangover.)  We loved it!

For dessert, we had delicious coconut cookies, called cocades.  They are similar to a macaroon, except they are made with sweetened, condensed milk, instead of eggs.  They were perfect with a cup of Panamanian coffee, for which they are now famous.  They grow a particular type, called Geisha that originally came from Ethiopia but has been growing very well in Panama.  This coffee lacks the bitter or sour notes and sells for about $40/lb.  You can pick some up here if you would like to try it.

After dinner, we decided to go for a dance lesson.  Panamanians love to gather together and dance.  Punto panmeño is considered to be the most elegant and beautiful of dances.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Palau get its name?

The name Palau comes from the Palauan language.  Belau, is the word for village, as is beluu or aibebalau, which relates to a creation myth. The name in the English language took a journey from the islands’ heritage.  The Spanish called it Los Palaos and then the Germans named it Palau.  Today, the official name is the Republic of Palau.

Where is Palau located?

Palau officially became a sovereign state on October 1, 1994.  Palau is made up more than 200 volcanic and coral islands, many of them surrounded by a single barrier reef in the western Pacific.  It is part of the larger island group of Micronesia and shares its maritime boundaries with Indonesia, the Philippines and the Federated States of Micronesia.

A Brief History of Palau

The first inhabitants of Palau date back to 2500 BC where they are believed to have come from present day eastern Indonesia.  They perfected their fishing, farming and developed complex social systems.

Captain Henry Wilson from England, became the first westerner to visit the islands when his vessel shipwrecked off shore in 1783.  In 1885, the Spanish asserted claims to the islands but that was short lived as the Spanish sold the islands to Germany in 1899.  The Germans did much to exploit the islands’ natural resources.  Phosphate mining began and coconut plantations popped up everywhere and cultivated for export.

When the Germans were defeated after World War I, the Japanese took over the islands.  Their reign only lasted until they lost the war in World War II.  A fierce battle between the US and Japan took its toll on the islands of Palau.  Many ship wrecks resulted, which are now dive sites, as well as too many lives lost, on both sides.  In 1947, Palau became a United Nations Trust Territory under the US administration until their Independence in 1994, as did several other Pacific nations.  Today they are independent under the Compact of Free Association with the US.  The US is responsible for their defense and financial aid and the US has the right to operate military bases on the islands.  The US dollar is the official currency of Palau and English is the official language, along with Palauan.

Palauan Culture

Despite all these outsider influences on the islands, monoliths and other relics are reminders of ancient culture and traditions that once thrived on the islands.  Today, Palauans hold strong to their heritage.  Although there are over 200 islands, only a few are inhabited.  The Koror Island is the hub where 2/3rds of the 21,000 inhabitants call home. The ethnic makeup of the islands is a mix of Micronesian, Melanesian, Asian and Western elements.  Koror is the main city and the economic hub and was also the former capital.  However, in 2006 the capital was moved to Ngerulmud, which is located on the nearby island of Babelbaob.  The other two satellite islands are Malakai and Ngerkebesang.  Tourism is the main economic driver for Palau.  Subsistence farming and fishing are also contributors to their economy.

The government is by far the largest employer on the islands.  A traditional government operates in conjunction with the federal government which sometimes creates conflicts, mainly over land rights.  Traditional matrilineal practices remain prevalent in nearly every aspect of Palauan life.  This is especially seen in funerals, marriages, inheritance and the passing of traditional titles.  One of Palau’s most important cultural symbols is the bai.  This is an impressive thatched, gable-style building that is the center of political and social life.  The beams are decorated with carvings that depict the life and the histories of the villages.  Today replicas called storyboards are sold to tourists as wonderful mementos of the islands.  Shell jewelry, watercolors and weavings are also popular tourist items.  Traditional dance, especially by women formed in two lines, is considered an art form. The men’s typical line dance includes war stances using sticks.

Why you should visit Palau

Palau is home to the most pristine waters in the world.  Most people go there to dive or snorkel and enjoy the breathtaking, white sand beaches that dot the islands’ coastlines.  Palau was the first country in the world to establish a shark sanctuary, in 2009.  They are also home to a lake called Jellyfish Lake.  It is located on the island of Eil Malk which is part of the uninhabited Rock Islands in Palau’s southern lagoon.  The Rock Islands’ southern lagoon was listed into the UNESCO world heritage sites in 2012.  The unique Rock Islands are rounded knobs of forest-capped limestone that plunges steeply into the sea.  Jellyfish Lake is connected to the ocean through fissures and tunnels in the limestone of an ancient Miocene reef.  It is a place where you used to be able to snorkel with the golden-colored jellyfish, that don’t sting. The lake is currently closed to visitors as the jellyfish were beginning to decline due to environmental issues.  They hope to be able to reopen it when the jellyfish are replenished.

Another popular area is called the Milky Way, also located in the lagoon, amongst the Rock Islands  This area is known for its white, limestone mud found on the water floor.  It is believed that it will make you look ten years younger if you lather it all over your face and body, let it dry and then rinse it off with a swim in the lagoon.

Palau’s economic growth is tied to its conservation legacy.  Its marine sanctuary ensures a vibrant future for the nation’s marine life and for its economy for years to come.  That is, as long as climate change doesn’t take its toll on the islands.  The President of Palau has to look no further than his own backyard.  When there is a full moon, due to rising sea levels, the garden his wife used to keep at the back of their house gets flooded with salt water by the high tide.  “We no longer have flowers.  We had to put them in a pot and when there is a high tide, we move them.”  According to data from the United Nation, low-lying, small islands in the Pacific are disproportionately at risk of losing land as sea levels are expected to rise by 10-32 inches by the late 21^st century.  Palau has begun looking for alternatives to relocate its population to higher ground, before it’s too late.

Food of Palau

As we look into the cuisine of Palau, it comprises what they are able to grow and catch in the surrounding Pacific Ocean.  Root vegetables like taro, pumpkin, and yams are prevalent.  Pandan, with its unique aroma  and sweetness is widely used in cooking and desserts.  Colorful, exotic fruits are plentiful, such as: dragonfruit, mango, passionfruit, breadfruit, the very healthful soursop and the queen of fruits, the rambutan.  Of course, coconut is abundant and used for flavoring everything from fish to soups.  Rice is commonly served at mealtime.  An interesting island tradition there, is that women are the only ones allowed to harvest taro.

One unique dish you will find in Palau is fruitbat soup where the fruit bat wings and head are cooked in a broth of coconut.  Fish from the sea are cooked in all different ways and also eaten raw.  The cuisine has influences from America, Japan, the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and other Pacific Islands.  A few specialties are: Tinola, a soup made with chicken, papaya and ginger, Ulkoy, a deep fried shrimp and squash fritter and Pichi-Pichi, a dessert made with coconut and cassava.

So let’s enjoy a few more Palauan specialties:

The Menu

Starter

Tuna Poke Salad

Main Dish

Grilled Snapper; Palauan Style

Dessert

Halo-Halo (Shaved Ice with Milk, Fruit and Beans)

We set the scene with plumeria. the fragrant national flower of Palau.  We decorated with a shark figurine and sea shells, representing the shark sanctuary and the stunning marine life.  A baseball glove represented baseball as the national sport, which was brought to the islands by Japan in the 1920s.  Lastly, we added tropical fruit and a grass cloth covering, along with tapa rounds to complete the island feel.

We began our meal with a tuna poke salad.  Tuna is abundant in the waters of Palau and I absolutely love raw tuna.  This dish is inspired from the Hawaii Islands in the USA.   It is an absolutely delicious salad and is very versatile.  It has avocado, tomatoes, cucumbers, shallot, scallions and pea sprouts, with diced up, sashimi grade, tuna.  It is dressed with sesame oil, light soy sauce, lime, a hint of chili powder and black sesame seeds.  Heaven in a bowl.

For the main course we made a whole snapper.  It was grilled in a banana leaf and stuffed with kaffir lime leaf, garlic and ginger.  It was covered in a mixture of dark, mushroom-flavored soy sauce and sesame oil.  The fish was grilled for about 15 minutes (until tender and flaky.)  We served the fish whole, with white, steamed rice, flavored with the same mushroom, soy sauce and sesame oil.  The result was a quick, easy and sumptuous main dish that makes you feel like you are on a tropical island.  We loved it!

For dessert we enjoyed Halo-halo (pronounced hollow-hollow).  It is perfect for a hot, summer, tropical day.  It is a simple bowl of shaved ice that is covered with a bit of sweetened condensed milk and evaporated milk.  It is then topped with nata de coco, which is a jelly-like square that comes in different colors and flavors.  It also has some sweet red, mung beans and jackfruit .  It is finished with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  Halo-halo was a welcomed, cool and refreshing dessert to end our Palauan meal.  All in all we said “Ng ungil a chasi er ngii”  which means “It tastes good!”

After dinner we decided to treat ourselves to a mud spa.  Although I could not get the Milky Way mud, I did find a spa mud, in hopes of looking ten years younger.  If it doesn’t do the trick, a trip to Palau is in order.

As we say goodbye to this beautiful, tropical paradise, called Palau,  I leave you with a Palauan proverb.  “A ungil el merreder a ua chull el melemedem er a daob” Translated it means, “A good leader is like rain that calms the ocean.”

Until next time,

Thank you, (Ke kmal mesaul) Pronounced Kuk-MAHL-ma-SAHL

Darlene

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Pakistan is officially called the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.  Pakistan means “Land of the Pure,” in both Urdu and Pashto.  It is believed it was named by Chaudry Rahmat Ali, by using the first letters of the five provinces that make up Pakistan: P for Punjab, A for Afghania, K for Kashmir, S for Sindh and TAN for the Balochistan province.  Chaudry was the author of a famous 1933 pamphlet titled, “Now or Never; Are We to Live or Perish Forever”, which is where the acronym first appeared.

Pakistan, located in south Asia, is bordered by India to the east, Afghanistan to the west, Iran to the southwest, China to the northeast and the Arabian Sea to the south.  Pakistan is blessed with an array of different landscapes; deserts, plains, forests, hills and coastal areas.  Pakistan has the only fertile desert and the largest glacier outside of the polar regions. The northern area has five of the seventeen highest peaks and in the world.  K2 is the second tallest mountain, after Mt. Everest and rises to an imposing 28,251 feet above sea level.  Its name comes from the mountain range, Karakoram.  Its nickname is “Savage Mountain,” due to the extreme difficulty of ascent.  Pakistan has many beautiful natural sights and historic landmarks.  Lonely Planet says “Pakistan may become the next big thing in travel”.

The area of Pakistan was home to the Indus Valley civilization, one of the oldest in the world.  The city of Harappa flourished along the Riva River between 3000-1500 BC.  It has a rich history of invaders including the Aryans, the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Greeks, the Parthians and the Turks.  Babar, a Muslim ruler from Afghanistan, established the Mogul Empire.  In the 1700s, the British took over control of the East India Company.  In the 1940s, the Muslim League demanded partition from the British, of a separate nation for India’s Muslims.

Pakistan gained independence from the British on August 14, 1947.  Pakistan is the only country to have been created in the name of Islam.  It was the result of the Pakistan movement, led by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, who is considered the founding father of Pakistan.  He died of tuberculosis very shortly after Independence, when he was named Governor-General.  Had the man who was asked to make the partition (Cyril Radcliffe) known how sick Jinnah was, it is very likely the lines would not have been drawn at all.  Those lines resulted in 12 million people becoming refugees and between a half a million and a million people being killed in religious violence.  Unfortunately, the lines drawn to establish Pakistan, remain some of the most hotly contested land borders in the world.  India and Pakistan, to this day, are bitter enemies over them.

In 1948, war broke out with India over the disputed territory of Kashmir, which still remains in turmoil.  Bangladesh, formerly known as East Pakistan, declared Independence on March 25, 1971.  This precipitated a horrible. nine month liberation war between the two countries, which killed millions more innocent people. There has been way too much bloodshed over these borders.

There is also a dangerous border area with Afghanistan where it is believed terrorists are harbored and operate on both sides of the border.  The Taliban (one of the terrorist groups) is present in both Pakistan and Afghanistan.  Pakistan is accused of not doing enough to act against extremist groups; an issue which just caused the USA to put Pakistan back on the “gray list,” a global-terrorism, financing watchlist.  They have a year to prove they are doing the right things to prosecute extremist leaders, and shut down their financing streams.  Pakistan is also the place where Osama bin Laden, the mastermind of the 911 terror attacks in the USA, was hiding out. That is until he was killed in an undercover mission by the US special forces.

Today, Pakistan is a nuclear power, ranked ninth in the world as a super power, because of this arsenal.  They have the sixth largest army in the world and have some of the top, air force pilots. They also are known for manufacturing fighter jets, which they now are exporting and they have some of the best missile technology in the world.  Pakistan is also the world’s fifth most populous country and has a growing economy.  The official languages are Urdu and English, although, some 60 languages are spoken there.  The literacy rate has been poor in Pakistan, however they have been making great strides in recent years with a 250 percent increase in their literacy rate through education.  Education is important in Pakistan and they are listed as having the seventh largest pool of engineers and scientists.  The Lahore University of Management Sciences attracts thousands of international students. It is considered to be the best university in the country.

As we look into the cuisine of Pakistan, we see it is heavily influenced by its past, when it was part of India.  It has influences from Central Asia, as well as their rich Mughal legacy.  As with most countries, the cuisine of Pakistan is regional and largely based on the ethnicity and diversity of its people.  Generally speaking, the eastern region is known for its highly seasoned and spicy cuisine, reminiscent of the Indian subcontinent.  Cuisine from the western and northern provinces are characterized by milder dishes, with more influence coming from Central Asia.  It has Middle Eastern flavors, as well.  Pork and alcohol are forbidden, as 97% of the population is Muslim.  Mutton, beef and chicken, as well as seafood from along the coast, are the proteins of choice for the wealthy.  Lentils (or dahls) supply protein for the rest of the population. Nearly 2/3rds of the population lives on $2 a day.

The main spices used in Pakistani cuisine are: chili powder, curry, ginger, garlic, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, saffron and turmeric.  Sabzi (fresh herbs and vegetables) or kachumber salad are typically served with the main meal.  Flat breads like naan and roti, are also served with the meals and rice is ubiquitous as well.  Pakistan is the one of the largest producers and exporters of both rice and wheat in the world.  They also have one of the largest irrigation systems in the world. The spicy, main dishes are often accompanied by dishes that soothe the spicy flavors.  These come in the form of chutneys, made with coriander and mint, raita (a yogurt dish) and lassi, (a delicious drink made with yogurt) which is often flavored with mangoes, for which Pakistan is also famous, and is the national fruit.   A sugarcane drink called roh is the national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Pakistani meal:

The Menu

Starter

Shami Kababs (Chicken Kebabs)

Main Course

Chicken Karahi (Chicken Curry)

Served with

Kachumber Salad (Cucumber, Tomato and Onion Salad)

Dessert

Shahi Turka (Bread Pudding)

We sat down on the floor on our dastarkhan (a floor covering) and surrounded it with cushions.  We began with handwashing, as we would eat the meal with only our right hand, which is customary there.  We decorated with the colors of Pakistan; green and white.  We also breathed in the fragrance of jasmine, which is the national flower of Pakistan.  A soccer ball was also part of the décor, not because it is the national sport (which is cricket), but because Pakistan makes them for the rest of the world.

Our first course was shami kababs, a delicious patty style, kebab made of chicken and yellow split peas.  They were soft and flavorful and perfect when dipped into the green coriander chutney, served as an accompaniment.

The main course, chicken karahi  (chicken curry), was served with raita, a creamy yogurt mixture.  It is a cooing agent for the spicy curry.  A kachumber salad made with cucumbers, tomato, onion and fresh herbs was also part of the main meal.  It was dressed simply, with lemon juice, making it extremely healthful.  It was sprinkled with a spice mixture called chaat masala, that was tangy and spicy, at the same time.  Aside from being used on this salad, chaat masala is also loved on hard-boiled eggs and fruit.  We had fresh, naan bread, which makes just the right scoop to enjoy the salad and the spicy goodness of the chicken karahi.  You can get the naan recipe here.

For dessert we had a dish made for royalty, called shahi tukra.  It was a scrumptious, bread pudding, made from crispy pieces of bread that were fried in ghee (clarified butter) and then smothered in a rabadi or milk sauce, flavored with saffron and cardamom.  The whole dish was garnished with three different types of nuts.

After our meal, we sat back on our soft cushions and contemplated how different things would have been had the British chosen not to make a partition, leaving India whole, as it was in the past.

We then watched the documentary, He Named Me Malala.  This film is about the young Pakistani girl, Malala Yousafzai, who was shot in the head and nearly killed by the Taliban for going to school.  She is the youngest ever Nobel Peace Prize Laureate and a superstar advocate for girls education and children’s rights.  I leave you with a few of her famous quotes.

“We realize the importance of our voices only when we are silenced.”

“When the whole world is silent, even one voice becomes powerful.”

“One child, one teacher, one book, one pen, can change the world.”

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

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India gets her name from the Indus River, a major river that flows through China, Pakistan and India. The river’s name comes from Sanskrit (Sindhu) meaning “body of trembling water, river”. India is the largest part of the land mass that is South Asia. She is the seventh largest country in the world by size and second largest in population. India shares land borders with six countries, Pakistan to the northwest, China, Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan to the north and Bangladesh and Myanmar to the southwest. She is surrounded on the southeast and southwest by the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka and the Maldives lie just off the coast, to the south.

India is an ancient land with a history dating back thousands of years. In 2700 BCE, the first urban civilization in the world emerged in the Indus River valley. There were numerous states and kingdoms throughout the region over its long history, which is also the birthplace of the some of the world’s largest religions: Hinduism, Sikhism, Buddhism and Jainism. Today an overwhelming majority of the population is Hindu, which is the religion associated with the caste system in India (a rigid, social and occupational stratification system). Twelve percent of Indians are Muslim. This fact makes India one of the largest Islamic nations in the world because of the size of the population; over 1 billion people call India home. They also have the largest number of mosques in the world, with over 300,000. Every major religion in the world is represented in India.

Today, India is home to 29 states and seven union territories, each with their own extraordinary history, culture, language and uniqueness. There are 16 official languages of India, which include: Hindi, Urdu, Bengali and English (making India the largest English speaking country in the world). However, there are numerous other languages and dialects spoken there, totaling over 1500. The capital city of India is New Delhi but the most populated city is Mumbai, also known as “The City of Dreams” and formerly known as Bombay. The term “Bollywood,” gets its “B” from the previous name of the city coupled with the fact that they are the largest producer of films in the world. Mumbai is home to the wealthiest people in India, with many millionaires and even billionaires. However, many Indians live on as little as $2 a day and 35 percent of the population lives below the poverty line.

India gained her independence on August 15, 1947, after 200 years of British rule. India is the largest democracy in the world. The Indian, Independence Bill, which made independent nations of India and Pakistan, was hailed by Indian Independence leader, Mohandas Gandhi as the “noblest act of the British nation.” Unfortunately, after the bill took effect it began a period of religious turmoil between the Hindus and Muslims. That resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands, including Gandhi, who was assassinated by a Hindu fanatic in January of 1948 during a prayer vigil. More commonly known at Mahatma Gandhi, he is hailed as the Father of India. (Mahatma is an honorary title in the ancient Sanskrit language meaning “Great Soul”.) His birthday is celebrated every October 2nd and the day is also commemorated by the United Nations as the “International Day of Non-Violence”. Gandhi used non-violent civil disobedience as a method of evoking the people of India to rally for independence. His mission was to peacefully free India from British rule, to relieve poverty and to provide equality for women. His influence on humanity cannot be underestimated as he inspired similar movements around the world. His life and principles have inspired countless people all over the world with his message of peace, simplicity and devotion. He will forever be remembered for his many inspirational quotes and life lessons.

The world has a lot to thank India for as they are the inventors of many things that affect the lives of people every day. India gave the world yoga, developed over 5000 years ago. They invented the game of chess, the shirt button, the ruler, the decimal system was invented in 100 BC and the number zero. They also get the credit for the value of pi, trigonometry, algebra and calculus, to name a few.

The sheer size and scope of India is simply astounding. They have six seasons, which include the normal four, plus winter and summer monsoons. They have incredibly diverse topography which includes some of the tallest mountains in the world, the Himalayans, to arid desserts, forests, fertile plains and tropical seaside villages. Interestingly the whole of India is in the same time zone. They grow over 1.2 million tons of mangos annually as well as many legumes, like chickpeas and kidney beans and lentils of all types, which are often dried. They are also the largest producer of milk in the world. Cows are sacred in India and you will often times see them wandering the streets. Because India is such spiritual country, there is no shortage of festivals. There are festivals that celebrate good over evil, one where camels are dressed up and paraded, celebration for the harvest, kings’ birthdays, elephants ornately decorated and ridden thru the streets, etc. They are some of the most colorful festivals in the world. Weddings are multi day celebrations as well, with food, dancing and extravagant outfits. Even in modern India, most marriages are still arranged.

As we look into the cuisine of India, it is as diverse as the country itself. They have over 37 different cuisines along with hundreds of variations of those. The differences are often times simply, what is available locally due to the soil, climate and ethnic group. It is clear that religion and culture have a major impact on the choices. Hindu’s don’t eat beef and Muslim’s don’t eat pork. India has the largest number of vegetarians in the world. India is one of the few places in the world where you will find vegetarian meals at Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonalds and Pizza Hut. Indian cuisine is loved throughout the world and mostly known for its amazing use of spices called masala, which are used to make hundreds of curries. Some of the hallmark spices in Indian cuisine are chili pepper, black mustard seed, cardamom, cumin, turmeric, asafetida, ginger, coriander and garlic. The famous garam masala is a combination of at least five spices, ground together, which usually includes, cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Each region has a special garam masala blend to call their own. Indian food always uses spice but you can enjoy Indian food with or without the intensity of heat from peppers. Some Indian food is off the charts on the hot side but can be adjusted to suit your tastes. Rice, millet, bean pulses, potatoes and dahls, are all staple ingredients in Indian cuisine, along with delicious flat breads like naan, chapatti and roti.

To be honest, I had no idea how to tackle India from a cuisine standpoint. I decided to go with a vegetarian meal as an introduction to Indian cuisine. We enjoyed the meal with masala chai which means “spiced tea.” Chai is the national drink of India, and yes they are the largest producers of tea in the world as well.

So let’s eat Indian food:

The Menu
Starter
Bhindi Masala Dry Fry (Spicy Okra Dried Fry)

Main
Palak Paneer (Spinach Curry)

With Paneer (Cheese)

Served with
Aloo Gobi (Potatoes and Cauliflower Dry)

All served with
White Basmati Rice and Garlic Naan Bread
Dessert
Mango Lassi (Mango Smoothie)

We placed a mat on the floor, along with some cushions, as it is customary to sit on the floor to dine in India. We removed our shoes, washed our hands, feet and face and sat down cross legged. The decorations included lotus flower candle holders, as the lotus flower is a sacred symbol in India especially to Hindus and Buddhists and is their national flower. In fact, in New Delhi, there is the lotus temple, which is one of the most visited in the world. It is shaped like a lotus flower with 27 gigantic petals that are covered in marble. We also placed a peacock feather to symbolize their national bird, and a Bengal tiger, their national animal, which used to roam all over the country but today, its numbers are threatened. We, of course, used only our right hand to enjoy the meal, which is their custom. It is important to know you should never share food, as it is considered contaminated if you have touched your mouth and then your food. Only the finger tips are used and never lick your fingers. You will wash your hands at the end of the meal as well.

Our first course was the dried, okra fry and it was absolutely amazing. The complex spices in the dish and the fact that it was not at all gelatinous, was a real treat. These little morsels were very easy to eat with only the right hand and we didn’t have a one left over; a delicious way to begin our vegetarian meal.

Next, we enjoyed the very popular, palak paneer. This spicy, spinach curry was off the charts, outstanding. The grilled paneer cheese is very similar to a tofu that seems to just soak up the flavors of whatever it is cooked in. The grilled cheese melts in your mouth as the spicy, spinach curry enlivens your palate. This was enjoyed with basmati rice and naan bread.

As a side dish, we served aloo gobi, which was also cooked in the dry style, with amazing spices. The potatoes and cauliflower were a wonderful combination; tender and delicious.

For dessert, in honor of their national fruit, the mango, we savored a mango lassi. Basically, it is a creamy, mango smoothie but it also served to soothe the palate after the heat from our amazing, vegetarian meal.

We thought about how, if you wanted to be a vegetarian, Indian cuisine would be a wonderful way to indulge. We loved every single dish and were totally full and satisfied. We then decided to have a little chess match over a movie called “Slumdog Millionaire”. This movie gives an interesting perspective of India and has won numerous film awards.

India is a complex country, many have said that it can’t really be explained, it must be experienced. As my nephew Eliot described last week, India is indeed a land of many contrasts and full of intense sensory stimuli. I hope to someday breathe her in myself, but in the meantime, exploring the many diverse cuisines, is a good place to start.

As we say goodbye, I leave you with a few inspiring quotes from Gandhi:
“Be the change that you want to see in the world.”
“You must not lose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”
“Where there is love there is life.”
“An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.”

Until next time,
Namaste’
Darlene

How this mysterious country got its name is not completely known.  The most common theory comes from the Nepali scholar, Rishikesh Shah, who says that the ancient chronicles report it was named after a sage, Ne.  He was believed to come to the area for meditation and later became the protector or “Pala” of the land.

Nepal is nestled between two massive countries; China to the north and India to the south.  It has two other close neighbors, Bhutan and Bangladesh, but their borders do not touch.  This landlocked country does not celebrate an Independence Day, as it was never technically colonized by another nation.  In 1923, Britain recognized the absolute independence of Nepal.  Between 1846 and 1951 the country was ruled by the Rana family.  In 1951, the king took over all the power and proclaimed Nepal his constitutional monarchy.  The monarchy was abolished in 2008.  The earliest recorded history dates back some 2800 years, when the Kirantis (a Mongolian tribe) arrived in the Himalayan territory.  However, it is the Newars who are considered to be the most indigenous people.  They come from what is now known as the Kathmandu Valley, which holds many legends of Nepal. One of which is the legend of Yeti or the abominable snowman.  Yeti is described as an ape-like creature bigger than a human that lives in the Himalayas.  There have been reported sightings but never a capture, so the folklore remains.  Kumari’s  are real, female child goddess and a big part of the Newar culture.  These girls have to meet very strict criteria and are chosen between the ages of 2 to 4.  It is a great honor to be chosen and it is believed that just laying eyes on a Kumari will bring good luck.  Since the migration of the Newars, all sorts of tribes made their way to the region.  Many different dynasties ruled the land over time.  Today, Nepal is a multiethnic, multiracial, multicultural, country. It is also multi religious, with the majority being Hindus followed by Buddhists.  In fact, Buddha’s birthplace is Lumbina, Nepal, dating back to circa 563 B.C.  Nepal is also a multilingual country.  The national language is Nepali, however over 120 languages are spoken.

Nepal is one of the least developed nations on earth.  Many countries have provided economic assistance to this isolated nation.  It is poor, with nearly half the population surviving on just one dollar a day.  Nearly 75 percent of the land is mountainous.  Nepal is home to eight of the ten largest mountains in the world.  This includes the majestic towering peak of Mount Everest, the tallest in the entire world, at 8,850 meters.  The local Sherpas (an ethnic group in eastern Nepal) call it “Chomolungma” which translates to “Goddess Mother of the World.” The word in Nepali is “Sagarmatha” which means “Forehead of the Sky.”   Many have lost their lives trying to scale the tallest mountain in the world.  Apa Sherpa holds the record for scaling it, and did so, an amazing, 21 times.

Nepal is home to the largest concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites.  Eight are cultural sites and located mostly in the Kathmandu Valley.  A few of the sites are considered to be the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Buddhists and Hindus alike.  Two are natural sites and National Parks which house a huge array of plant species, bird life and exotic animals.  The Chitwan Park is known for its jungle safari, where you can encounter crocodiles on the lake and take cultural tours on the lifestyle of the Chitwan people.  In the Sagarmatha Park, is where you can encounter rare species of exotic animals like: snow leopards, pandas and lynx, to name a few.

Nepal does not have many natural resources.  Agriculture employs two thirds of the nation but only accounts for one third of the GDP.  They are the number one producer in the world of mustard seed and third in the world for ginger.  Tourism plays an important role in the economy, although political instability has taken its toll on this sector.  The many rivers and plentiful snowfall in the region have massive potential for providing hydro-electric power, which Nepal dearly needs.  In most parts of Nepal, electricity, is only available for half the day.

As we look into the cuisine of this intriguing nation, it is quite regional according to the topography and what is available, based on the soil and climate.  Often culinary choices are determined by culture, ethnicity, and religion.  Yet, some dishes are found everywhere.  The national dish of Nepal is called, dal bhat.  Dal is a lentil soup. This is served over a grain called bhat, which, based on the region, could be rice, roti, a flat bread, or a porridge, made from other types of grain such as buckwheat, barley or millet.

Generally speaking, Napali’s food has Asian, Tibetan, Indian and Thai influences.  For example, Tibetan style dumplings with Nepali spices called Momos, are one of the most loved snacks. These delicious treats can be made with buffalo, goat or chicken and there is a vegetarian variety as well.  Cow, is the national animal of Nepal and considered sacred.  It is not consumed for its meat, only for dairy.  Fish is also available in the lakes and rivers.  Curries, or tarkari are very popular, as are pickled vegetables, called achars.  Vegetables often accompany the dal bhat in the form of a curry.  Sag, which are sautéed greens, like mustard greens, flavored with Nepali spices are also widely consumed.  The most common herbs and spices in Nepali cuisine are: garlic, ginger, coriander, turmeric, cumin, Szechwan pepper, fenugreek seeds, sesame seed, mustard seed and chili powder or fresh chili.  Nepalese food is spicy, in both flavor and heat.  Mustard oil imparts an interesting dimension to their food.  Only about half the population consumes alcohol.  It is typically spirits, made from millet or rice.  Tea is the most common beverage followed by buttermilk.

Common vegetables found in Nepal are: potatoes, green beans, cucumber, tomato, cauliflower, cabbage and pumpkin.  Fruits include: mandarin oranges, limes, lemons, Asian pears, pomelos and mangoes.  Chow Mein is another Nepali favorite and packaged, instant noodles have become extremely popular.  The Nepali people also love sweets.  For dessert they have a unique treat that is circular, called sel roti (yes, fried dough.)  That is a crowd favorite during festivals and holidays.

So let’s enjoy a Nepali meal:

The Menu

Starter

Chatamari (Nepali Pizza)

Main Course Thali

Dal Bhat (Red Lentils and Rice)

Served with

Chicken Tarkari (Curry Chicken)

Cauli Aloo (Cauliflower and Potato Curry)

Kaakroo Ko Achar (Cucumber Pickle Salad)

Bhogate Sadeko (Grapefruit and Orange Salad)

Dessert

Peda (Milk Candy)

We set the scene by stringing prayer flags from the ceiling, in the form of a mountain peak representing Mt. Everest.  Our place settings were crimson, Nepal’s color of the world’s only non-quadrilateral national flag and we decorated with Buddha and Hindu figurines.  We burned incense and scattered petals of various flowers to represent the rhodendron, the national flower of Nepal.

We began with a street food called chatamari, often referred to as Nepali pizza.  This was a real hit.  I made two versions: one with buffalo meat and one vegetarian.  The crust of the pizza is made with rice flour and then topped with spices and meat or vegetables.  It is then topped with an egg, cooked all at the same time, for about eight minutes.  It was unlike any pizza we had ever tasted.  The exotic spices and crunchy, rice crust, made it unforgettable.

For the main meal, we served it thali style.  Thali is a very popular way of eating, which consists of a large, round platter with rice stacked in the middle and surrounded by a variety of  dishes.  It is  eaten with only the right hand.  We put our palms together and we said “namaste.”  This is a common greeting in all of Nepal which literally means, “Bowing to you.”  In Hinduism, it has a spiritual importance which reflects a belief that the divine and soul are the same in you and in me.  So, “namaste’s” deeper meaning is, “I bow to the divine in you.”

Our thali had steamed, white rice in the middle and was surrounded by a lentil soup;  the national dish, dal bhat.  One can easily see how satisfying these dishes would be when mountaineering in the Himalayas.  I understand this is the main meal served on the trek to the Everest base camp.  It is so important in fact, that often climbers rate each day’s trek by the number of servings to complete the task. “ Is it a two dal bhat climb or four, for a really hard climb?  It is a perfectly balanced meal used to fuel the climbers in the Himalayas as well as everyday folk in Nepal. Our dal was made with red lentils and all the rich Nepali spices.  We loved it!

Our thali was also served with a chicken tarkari.  This tarkari  or curry, had similar spices in it as the red lentils.  However, the chicken  is first stir fried and then braised in a stock.  This resulted in a super tender and flavorful chicken curry. awesome with the steamed rice.

Next on the thali was an achar; a cucumber pickle salad.  This achar is meant to cool the palate from the heat of the Nepali dishes, although it has a bit of spice as well.  The coolness comes from the cucumber itself, along with splash of lemon and dollup of yogurt.; another wonderful Nepali dish.

Cauliflower and potato aloo followed.  The cauliflower is cooked dry, along with potatoes, allowing the water in the vegetables to be released.  It is flavored with cumin, ginger, fenugreek and chili.  The trick is to get the cauliflower and potatoes cooked through without them becoming mushy (which is why it is cooked without water).  The result was tender morsels packed with tons of flavor and heat.

I think this last dish on the thali was my favorite.  It was a grapefruit and orange salad.  It too had the Nepali flavors that we have come to enjoy but it had a sweetness to it as well.  It was the perfect accompaniment to the other dishes on the thali.  It had yogurt in it, with toasted sesame seeds.  Mustard oil flavored the fenugreek seeds and also the turmeric.  It does indeed impart a wonderful flavor.

For dessert we had peda.  This is basically a milk candy made from sweetened condensed milk (or by making your own sweetened condensed milk) and cooking it until it turns into a candy.  It is then rolled into bite size pieces and garnished with a pistachio nut.  These treats are loved as a dessert with tea but also are considered a gift for the many Hindu gods.  We loved them too!

Nepal suffered a horrific earthquake back in 2015.  They are working on rebuilding their infrastructure (which was not very well developed before the quake.)  The 7.8 magnitude quake killed nearly 9000 people and injured another 22,000.  It demolished more than half a million homes. They continue to receive aid from many nations to help rebuild after their catastrophic losses.  They also are holding a series of elections for the first time in 20 years.  They are being held in three phases, the last one scheduled for September 18^th of this year.  Millions are participating.  We hope that whoever is elected, they will continue to rebuild this most extraordinary nation and live in peace.

I  leave you with a few Nepali Proverbs:

“Half a loaf is better than no bread”

“Fruits of labor are always sweet.”

and

“If you do right things, you don’t have to worry.”

Until next time,

Namaste

Darlene Longacre

Laos can trace its name back to the Kingdom of Lan Xang, which means, “Kingdom of a Million Elephants.”  This successful kingdom was one of the largest in Southeast Asia from the 14^th century until 1893, when it became a French Protectorate.  The official name of the country is Lao People’s Democratic Republic or commonly referred to by its people as, Muang Lao.   The rest of the world continues to call the country Laos, which is technically not correct, yet remains to be the norm. The reason why Laos is incorrect is because there is no “s” in their  alphabet.   Laos’ enchanted history can be traced much farther back than the 14^th century.  An ancient human skull was recovered in northern Laos, dating back 46,000 years.

Laos is a landlocked country, located in the center of the Indochinese peninsula of mainland Southeast Asia.  Her neighbors are:  Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south and Thailand to the west.  The country is covered by dense forests and rugged mountains, with some plains and plateaus as well.  The climate is tropical and influenced by the monsoon pattern.  The rainy season is May to November, followed by a dry season, December to April.  Its rivers, most notably the Mekong River, which means “Mother of Water”, is the lifeblood of the country.  Most of the villages in Laos are scattered along its banks or tributaries.  The river marks the border with Thailand, where recent bridges have been built to allow access to each other’s border crossing.  They are called the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridges.

Laos gained independence from France on July 19, 1949, after a brief occupation by Japan during World War II.  It is one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia and is one of the few remaining communist run regimes.  Nearly 85 percent of the population works in agriculture, mostly subsistence rice farming that produces 51 percent of the country’s GDP.  New private enterprises are enjoying some success as the country tries to establish a more market based economy.  These enterprises include handicrafts, beer, coffee and especially tourism.  Tourism is the fastest growing sector of the economy.  However, new dam proposals along the Mekong River, which are quite controversial, are expected to make hydro-electric power its number one export.

Laos’ biggest challenge is a terrible crisis the country has faced since the Vietnam War.  There were more than 580,000 bombing missions in Laos, (mostly by the United States of America) from 1964-1973.  This is sometimes referred to as the “Secret War”, as many Americans were unaware of what was happening during that time in Laos.  The aerial bombardment in Laos was an attempt to destroy North Vietnamese sanctuaries and stop the supply line, known as the Ho Chi Minh trail.  CIA agents were placed in Laos to call in coordinates where they saw activity, during the war.  This resulted in a bomb drop every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years.

Aside from the devastation of war, the additional problem stemmed from the 270 million cluster munitions dropped, where up to 80 million failed to detonate.  They remain live, in the ground, since the war.  More than one-third of Laos’ territory suffers from UXO (unexploded ordinance) contamination.  More than 20,000 people have been killed or maimed as a result of UXO accidents since the war ended.  Forty percent of those casualties have been children.  It is estimated that it will take two millennia to clear Laos of UXOs at its current pace.  Although the United States has recently increased its funding for this effort, it is simply a drop in the bucket for what is needed to see progress.  The removal of UXOs is a painstakingly slow and a very dangerous task.  They literally search a patch of dirt with a detector, finding them one at a time, then carefully digging them up and exploding them.  There are more than 87,000 square kilometers to cover.

The Laotians are known to be simple people.  Most are Buddhist with a minimalist belief and lifestyle.  They are master craftsmen, from wood carvers to weavers.  They can carve the most amazing structures and weave just about anything from bamboo.  They are also known for their highly sought after, Lao silk, weaving it into the finest cloth.  Another handicraft is turning all that shrapnel and metal from bombs into art and even into dinner utensils.  These artifacts and crafts are found all over the country.

Music plays an important role in Laotian life.  The khene is the instrument most associated with Laotian music.  It is made from a special kind of bamboo.  Sets of bamboo and reed pipes of various lengths are strapped together and then blown into by the player.  Singing accompanies the khene, when used to play the traditional folk music, known as Lam.  It is popular in both Laos and Thailand.  Dance is also prevalent, known especially for the beauty and meaning of the graceful hand gestures, choreographed throughout their traditional dance.

As we look into the cuisine of Laos there are three things that define it.  The first is sticky rice.  Sticky rice is believed to have originated in Laos.  It is glutinous rice that, despite its name, actually contains no gluten.  It is the starch content in sticky rice that makes it sticky.  It is traditionally steamed, not boiled, to give it a light, sticky texture.   Sticky rice requires less water to grow than regular white rice and it can be grown on hillsides and uplands as well as in lowland paddies.  Sticky rice takes longer to digest than regular rice.  It is believed to give you more energy for a longer period of time.  Buddhist monks in Laos typically eat just one meal a day and the people give sticky rice to the monks as donations called alms, to keep them fuller longer.  You can watch this tradition of the sticky rice being given to the monks in the town of Luang Prabang, where they reside in Buddhist temples.  Each morning the orange robed monks walk barefoot down the main street.  This is where they encounter the generosity of the people as they kneel on the ground, in front of the temples.  Donors quietly rise and place a ball of sticky rice in the monks’ pouches as they pass by.  What the monks receive as donations will be what they eat for the day.  Sticky rice is the center of every Lao meal and served in a cute little bamboo basket with a lid called, “Lao Aep Khao.”  A piece of rice is always first taken, then rolled into a small ball and dipped into a tomato chili sauce or eggplant chili sauce, to begin the meal.  The sticky rice is also used as a scoop, to enjoy with any of the number of Lao dishes served alongside the rice.  Usually the first bite is reserved for honored guests or the elders.

The second staple ingredient in Lao cuisine is padaek; a strong, fermented fish sauce, unique to Laos and northern Thailand and Cambodia. It is simply what makes a Lao dish, Lao.  It often has little chunks of the fermented fish in the sauce, which has been fermenting anywhere from one to five years.  It is a strong and pungent sauce, yet strangely, not at all fishy.  Something miraculous happens in the fermentation process when it is made properly.  The use of padaek in the cuisine is what is known as the fifth taste, or umami.  It is common to see jars of padaek fermenting away in villages across the country.

The third component of Laotian cuisine is known as the balance of flavors.  Usually the ingredients are ground together using a heavy mortar and pestle.  The flavors are: spicy, salty, sweet, sour and umami.  A delight for the palate!

Of course there are other influences on the cuisine as well.  The Chinese brought numerous dishes, but most notably, noodles and soy sauce, both of which are widely used in the cuisine.  Noodles are the only food in Laos eaten with chop sticks.  Otherwise, you would use a spoon as the main utensil in your right hand, and a fork to push the food onto the spoon, in your left.  (That is if you are not simply eating with your right hand, which is probably the most common way to enjoy your Lao meal.)  Vietnam introduced pho, a noodle soup, to Laos.  Thailand contributed a variety new spices and ingredients to blend.  Many people around the world love Thai food, which very well, may actually be Laotian food.  Some of the dishes, especially in northern Thailand, are indistinguishable from its Lao neighbor.  The French also brought many new food staples to Laos such as: potatoes, corn and sweet peppers and it is the French baguettes and pastries that are most loved.

This week I was thrilled to have a couple of new friends over for this Lao International Cuisine meal.  A couple months ago, I attended a weekend seminar for travel bloggers called, “The Women in Travel” summit.  The seminar was fantastic and I met several exceptional women.  I was thrilled when Megan, from HelloMeganO.com and Jennifer, from Worldonawhim.com, suggested that it would be fun to get together for a meal.  They would get a chance to understand more about what I do with International Cuisine, as they are always looking for new blog material.  I was honored to have them over, I hope you will check out their websites as well.  Megan writes about fun and unique things to do in and around Los Angeles and also has a unique sort of bucket list with a time frame that gives 101 things to do in 1001 days.  One of Megan’s 101 things to do is to learn about a new cuisine.  I hope I helped her mark that off her list with Laos.  Jennifer gives all kinds of tips and tricks for spontaneous travel.  Her specialty is cultural festivals, mainly in Europe.  She may have just convinced my husband and me to go do just that, and get traveling.  We are thinking maybe Spain and a few other countries in the area, perhaps in September and October, Thanks Jen!

So let’s eat a Lao meal

The Menu

Sin Savanh (Lao Beef Jerky)

Jaew Mak Keus (Eggplant Dip)

Khao Niew (Sticky Rice)

Laab (Minced Beef Salad)

Tam Mak Houng (Spicy Green Papaya Salad)

Ping Gai (Grilled Chicken)

Oa si khai (Lemongrass Chicken)

Khao Poon (Coconut Noodle soup)

Dessert

Kanom Krok (Coconut Cakes)

We set the scene with a terracotta jar, serving double duty.  It was placed to represent the Plain of Jars in Laos and also the famous jars they make their beloved rice whisky in, called Laolao.  The Plain of Jars will be an UNESCO world heritage site once the area is cleared of UXOs.  The area consists of thousands of giant, stone jars scattered around the plain of the Xiangkhoang Plateau.  The majority of the jars are made of sandstone.  Why the jars are there is shrouded in mystery and there are many different theories.  The most believed theory is that they were used for burial purposes, where the jars may have been used to distil the bodies before cremation.  However, Lao legends tell a story of giants who were ruled by a king, that created the jars to brew and store huge amount of lau hai. (Lau means alcohol and hai means jar.) Another theory is that they were used to collect monsoon, rainwater water for caravan travelers.  Once the area is safe from UXOs, archeologists will have a chance to examine the giant jars much closer and perhaps solve the mystery.

The table was also set with elephant shaped oil burners, as elephants are the national animal and the scent from the burning oil was plumeria, representing the national flower.  We placed a few little boats to signify the main mode of transportation along the Mekong River and its tributaries.  The table was square and low and we sat on the floor, as would be customary there.  Typically in Laos the tables would be round, small tables are added and placed next to each other, depending on the number of people.  Sticky rice is available on each one.  They serve the meal all at once, family style, as opposed to in courses.

We began with a ball of sticky rice and a dip into the spicy eggplant dip called, jeow mak keua.  The dip had a lovely smokiness to it and was a little spicy having been made with a Thai chili.  In general Lao like their food spicy, yet balanced.

Another dish served was beef jerky.  Drying fish and meats is common place in Laos, especially in areas where they lack  refrigeration.  The marinade used for the jerky comprises all the flavors of Laos: hot chili, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, a little sugar and fish sauce.

Laab was another dish on our table and it may have been my favorite.  It is a minced beef and herb salad.  They eat laab, often times raw, made with different meats and fish.  This was a grilled version and it was awesome; bursting with flavors from the various herbs and spices.  Laab, aside from sticky rice, is considered to be the national dish of Laos.

Another salad  on the menu was a refreshing and addicting, spicy, green papaya salad.  It also contained  the flavors of Laos and provided a tantalizing burst of flavors.  I learned that green papaya is not an unripe papaya, it is in fact its own species, called green papaya.

Grilled chicken, called Ping Gai, was another dish we had.  It was just little chicken legs that had been marinated in the balanced flavors of Laos.  They were cooked on the grill until tender and were so delicious.

Of course a soup was also served, as would be customary, with nearly every meal in Laos.  This was called Khao Poon.  The broth was made from chicken, lemongrass, coconut milk, tomatoes, and other spices.  The noodles were vermicelli.  The noodles were served in a bowl with the broth and the fresh greens and meats were served in a large basket, allowing you to choose what you wanted to include in your soup.

Another one of my favorite Laos dishes is the lemongrass chicken.  I actually forgot to cook this dish for the main meal.  We decided to enjoy it as dessert (since my original attempt at the coconut cakes was not successful.)  Lemongrass stalks were made into little baskets to hold the ground chicken mixture.  Once deep fried, it was served with a peanut sauce and worked out to be a lovely dessert.

As I mentioned, my original attempt at the coconut cakes for dessert was not successful, but my second attempt, after the fact was, (Sorry girls!)  They were crunchy on the outside, creamy on the inside and delicious.  It turns out, I just did not have enough flour in my first mixture so they never cooked properly in the middle.  I added a bit more flour and the problem was solved.

It was so much fun having Megan and Jen over for our Laos meal.  I hope to do it again on another journey.  We sent them on their way with a bamboo plant for good luck and of course, leftovers.  As we say goodbye to Laos, we do so with the hope that they get more support to safely remove the UXOs.  It remains one of the few places in the world to visit that has had little influence from the west.  It is said to be enchanting and beautiful with a special mist that only lies at the base of the mountains, along the Mekong River.  I would love to experience a mystical float down the Mekong one day.

Had you ever heard about the “Secret War” in Laos?

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene