How did Singapore get its name?

Singapore is a tiny country that has had several names.  Originally it was known as Temasek, which is believed to originate from the Malay word for “Sea town” or a piece of land surrounded by water.

Later the country was renamed Singapura, which is a Sanskrit word for “The Lion City.”  It was a Sumatran Prince who named it this, because he thought he saw a lion when he landed on the island.  However, there have never been lions on Singapore, only tigers. 

Although the names were used interchangeably from the 13^th to the 15^th centuries, when Portuguese traders arrived in the 16^th century, Temasek was no longer used and Singapura remained.

Singapore is also known as “The Little Red Dot”, a term coined by Indonesian President Habibie who referenced the country’s appearance on a map, where it always showed up as a red dot.  Singaporeans do not like this term as it serves as a reminder that their small size makes them vulnerable.

Where is Singapore Located?

Singapore is an island city-state, one of only three city-states in the world; the others are Monaco and Vatican City.  It is located at the end of the Malayan Peninsula, between Malaysia and Indonesia.  It has no land borders and has a total land area of only 278 square miles.  However, Singapore is not just one island.  It has 62 small, outlying islands, nearly all uninhabited.  The mainland of Singapore measures 31 miles from east to west and 17 miles from north to south, with 120 miles of coastline.

Singapore is separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor and from Indonesia by the Singapore Strait.  Singapore is one of the few nations that is growing in size, as it reclaims land with earth obtained from its own hills, the seabed and sand from neighboring countries.  It is expected to grow by another 62 miles by the year 2033.

Despite its small size this country packs a large punch on the global scale.  It is one of the richest countries by GDP, the cleanest, the most honest and yet heavily urbanized.

A Brief History of Singapore

It is believed that the history of Singapore may date back as far as the third century.  It became a significant trading settlement by the 14^th century.  In 1819, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles negotiated a treaty to allow the British to locate a trading port on the islands.  This led to the establishment of The British Colony of Singapore in 1819.  During the subsequent decades, Singapore grew to become an important port in the region.  It was set up as a free port, which was a great advantage to the other nearby ports of Manila and Jakarta who levied tariffs on trade.  It allowed the introduction of the Chinese market, which greatly reduced the time and cost of shipping goods to Europe, after the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. 

By 1880 over 1.5 million tons of goods passed through Singapore each year.  The Chinese, mostly Peranakans, who were descendants of early Chinese settlers, became the largest ethnic group in Singapore.  Malays were the second largest ethnic group but they were eventually outpaced by Indians as the second largest group. The Indians were brought in to carry out public works projects.  Despite its growth, Singapore was mismanaged with a predominantly male, transient and uneducated society.  Prostitution, gambling and drug abuse (mainly opium) were widespread.

During World War II, the Japanese occupied Singapore.  The fall of Singapore was the largest surrender of British-led forces in history.  Singapore was renamed by the Japanese to “Syonan,” which means “Bright Southern Island”  and was under their control from 1942-1945.  However, this three year period was not at all bright, but rather a very dark time in Singapore’s history. 

After the Japanese surrendered to Allied forces, the British returned to Singapore.  The failure of Britain to defend Singapore had destroyed their credibility in the eyes of the Singaporeans.  This led to the beginning of self-governance.  After many trials and tribulations and alliances, Singapore gained Independence on the morning of August 9, 1965, after the Parliament of Malaysia voted 126-0 to expel Singapore from the short lived federation. 

Singapore wasted no time to seek international support and recognition of its sovereignty.  The new state joined the United Nations on September 21, 1965.  Although Singapore is a top country in many categories, it is rated one of the worst for freedom of the press and not so great on the level of democracy.  Generally speaking, Singaporeans have imposed the “surveillance” of its citizens to protect them. Today, Singapore’s economy is one of the best in the world.  The current president of Singapore is a woman, Madam Halimah Yacob.

Singapore’s Culture

One of the most beautiful things about Singapore is the way in which so many diverse people with varying religious beliefs, live in harmony.  This can be attributed to Singaporeans’ learning early on, the religious customs and traditions of each others religions.  They celebrate each other’s holidays as public holidays including Christian, Muslim, and Indian holidays, to name a few.  I happened to visit Singapore during the Chinese New Year, which was celebrated in large pagentry by all.  The state is home to ten major religions including: Buddhism, Taoism, Islam, Hinduism and Christianity. 

There are four official languages; English, Tamil, Malay and Mandarin Chinese.  Despite this, most people speak what is known as Singlish, another reflection of Singapore’s diversity.  It is a Creole language made up of local slang and expressions from the various official languages.  You will hear it spoken right away when visiting there.

Despite Singapore’s fast paced and rapid growth, it remains a very conservative and religious society.  Here are a few things you should know about how to stay out of trouble when visiting Singapore.  Respecting elders is of the utmost importance and you should never call someone older than you by their name.  They  should be called Auntie or Uncle or Grandmother etc.  Homosexuality is still illegal there.  Smoking in a non-smoking area is strictly enforced.  Don’t even think about trafficking drugs, it is punishable by death.  Littering or vandalism can result in hefty fines including  caning, and public shaming.  Chewing gum is against the law, as is not flushing a toilet after using it.  Perhaps it is these laws and punishments that make it one of the cleanest cities in the world, with one of the lowest crime rates.

Singapore has become a major tourist destination with several famous landmarks.  One of the newest is the Jewel Changi Airport, which opened in April 2019 and has a nature-themed entertainment and retail complex adjacent to the number one rated airport in the world.  The Marina Sands Hotel is one of the most Instagram-able hotels in the world; famous for its boat shaped infinity pool that overlooks all of Singapore. Another landmark is a giant observation Ferris wheel known as the Singapore flyer, that held the record as the largest from 2008 to 2014.  They have the second largest Aquarium in the world, which is part of the Adventure Cove Park.  A botanical garden, that is a UNESCO world heritage site, houses their beloved orchids, which are also a symbol of Singapore.

Aside from new attractions you will also find older establishments such as: the old Buddhist and Hindu temples, shop houses, mosques and areas like Little India, Haji Street and Chinatown.

Singapore Cuisine

Singapore imports nearly all of their food, as they only have 6% arable space.  They do try to grow what they can and recently put an emphasis on building vertical and growing roof top gardens.  Being a wealthy metropolitan city-state, you can find just about any type of food in Singapore.  I would argue the best can be found in what are known as hawker centers.  These are food stalls where you will find inexpensive but authentic cuisine of the people.  These food centers dot the country.  There is one food center that boasts a Michelin star which serves their famous chicken rice for only $1.42 per serving.  A few of Singapore’s favorite dishes are: chili crab, a spicy and delicious treat, laksa, a thick noodle dish often served with prawns and fish cakes, and a pulled tea, called Teh terik, made with black tea and condensed milk.  Make no mistake, you can find authentic Chinese, Malaysian, Indian and Indonesian food all over Singapore.  You can also enjoy a traditional Peranakan meal by the famous Violet Oon, who is hailed as the Julia Childs of Singapore.  She has been the food ambassador of Singapore since 1988.  Also a trip to Singapore would not be complete without a stop at the famous Raffles Hotel, where the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented and is still served with warm peanuts.  Culinary excellence is an integral part of the culture of Singapore.

So let’s enjoy a Singapore meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Singaporean Chili Crab

Main Course

Hainanese Chicken Rice with Sauces

Dessert

Pandan Chiffon Cake

We set the scene with orchids, as that is their national flower, along with a candle, decorated with the merlion, (the official mascot of Singapore, a mythical creature with a lion’s head and the body of a fish.) The colors used in our décor were red and white, to represent their flag.  A crab shell and other seashells were placed to represent the island’s seaside.  We also added symbols of the different religious faiths represented there.  Finally, a little F1 race car was placed, as Singaporeans were the first to introduce a night time Formula one race in the series.

We sat down with our Singapore Slings and said  “yumseng”, which is how you say “cheers” in Singlish.  Our first course was the amazing chili crab.  I had the privilege of eating this dish while in Singapore at the famous Jumbo’s restaurant.  I can attest that this recipe is just as wonderful.  It is spicy, rich and simply sensational.  It was served with steamed buns, as is customary there.  This could typically be a meal unto itself but I felt like it had to be only part of the IC menu.

For the main course, we savored the national dish called Hainanese chicken rice.  This dish can be found in all the hawker centers and is a true specialty of Singapore.  It is unique way to cook chicken, by poaching it.  The result is excellent, especially when served alongside seasoned rice.  The sauces that accompany the chicken and rice are what makes it truly extraordinary;  a chili sauce and another sauce made of ginger and spring onion oil, as well as a dressing, made with sesame oil, soy sauce and the poaching liquid.  Per their tradition, cucumber and tomato was served alongside the main dish.

For dessert, we enjoyed the pandan chiffon cake.  Pandan is a leaf, also known as screwpine, which is a very common ingredient in Singapore and Southeast Asian cooking.  It adds a nutty flavor and scent, as well as a bright green color.  This cake was light, fluffy, but not too sweet.  Delicious.

As we say goodbye to this intriguing little country of Singapore, I leave you with a few Singaporean proverbs:

Where there is a sea, there are pirates.

A given excuse that was not asked for implies guilt.

Never take a quiet person for granted.  He might have great qualities underneath his quiet nature.

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Sierra Leone get its name?

It was a Portuguese explorer by the name of Pedro da Cintra, back in 1492, who named the area, “Sierra Lyoa” meaning, “Lion Mountains.”  There is some question as to whether it was named for the shape of the mountains or because the thunder sounded like a lion’s roar, upon his arrival.  In 1808 when it became a British Crown Colony, the name was misspelled to Sierra Leona and then later modified to Sierra Leone.  Sierra Leoneans call their country “Salone,” a Franco Krio name.   A nickname for Sierra Leone is “The Little Jewel,” as it is known for its gold and diamonds.

Where is Sierra Leone located?

Sierra Leone lies on the west coast of Africa.  It is bordered by Guinea to the north and northeast, Liberia to the south and southeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west.  It has a tropical climate with two seasons; the dry season is from Nov-May and the rainy season is June-Oct.  It has a coastal belt of mangrove swamps, a wooded hill country, an upland plateau and mountains.

A brief history of Sierra Leone

Archaeological findings show that Sierra Leone has been inhabited for thousands of years.  Different tribes and invaders organized themselves in small political units of kingdoms and chiefdoms.  Muslim traders brought Islam to the country.  It was the Portuguese sailors, who were the first Europeans to detail their adventures along the coast of Sierra Leone.

Located near the capital port city of Freeport was the Rokel estuary, which was established as an important source of freshwater for sea traders.  Initially, it was a place to trade for swords and kitchen items, in exchange for beeswax and fine ivory works.  By the mid 1550s, it was the slaves that were traded.  The English, French, Dutch and Danish all had interests in the area.  Trade was established through African rulers who prohibited European traders from entering the interior of the continent. 

In 1787, British philanthropists founded the “Province of Freedom.”  It later became known as Freeport and was the principal base for the suppression of the slave trade.  Some 1200 slaves were relocated there from Nova Scotia in 1792, along with a group of slaves from Jamaica.  By 1855, over 50,000 freed slaves called Freetown home, and they became known as the Krios.

Sierra Leone gained independence on April 27, 1971.  Since independence it has experienced many changes politically, economically and in their social norms.  The 1990s brought a horrific civil war that led to intervention by the International community.  The war ended in 2002 and the process of rebuilding continues to this day.

As if recovering from civil war is not hard enough, Sierra Leone was hit in May of 2014 with the deadly Ebola virus.  The Ebola virus transmission was deemed  to be stopped in 2016, however there was a new strain found in bats in 2018 that once again alarmed scientists.  Although there are many travel warnings about visiting Sierra Leone, some bloggers say they have the most beautiful beaches and friendliest people in all of West Africa.  Despite its diamonds and gold, due to fighting and the skimming of resources, it is a poor country, one of the poorest in the world.  It is however, making strides and one day may become one of the world’s hottest, new travel destinations.

Sierra Leone Culture

The majority of Sierra Leoneans still live a traditional life, including subsistence agriculture, with ruling chiefs and religions which preserve social stability.  They also preserve local music, customs and traditions.

One interesting feature is the secret societies of Sierra Leone.  They are a fundamental part of the culture. There is the men’s secret society called the Poro and the women’s secret society is called Bundu.  These are where life lessons are taught and essential skills and knowledge concerning reaching puberty are passed on to contribute to the important roles of their society.

They also practice an interesting way of settling disputes called, palaver.  You may see two or three people yelling at each other quite aggressively and then immediately stop and hug each other like they are best friends.  This avoids anyone holding a grudge.

There are 16 different ethnic groups in Sierra Leone with the Temne in the north and Mende in the south, which is the largest.  The official language is English but Krio is the most universal.  Animist and Muslim are the two most practiced religions, followed by Christianity.

The Limba tribe plays a very important role in Sierra Leonean culture as they are the only people who can tap palm wine, also called poyo.  Other villages will put up signs trying to recruit good wine tappers in hopes that their village won’t run out of the naturally fermented, alcoholic drink.

Sierra Leone Cuisine

Sierra Leone’s cuisine is influenced by West Africa, in general.  Rice is considered a staple and they have multiple words in creole to describe the many ways it is consumed, like: pounded rice, steamed rice and the crusty part that forms on the bottom of a pot.  There is a saying there that, “If I haven’t had my rice, I haven’t eaten today.”  The rice is served with all sorts of stews and sauces, typically made with greens from cassava and potato leaves.  Other popular ingredients include: palm oil, onions, tomatoes, yams, ginger and chili peppers.  Protein is usually derived from ground-up nuts and beans, but also from fish, chicken goat meat and pork.  Being along the coast, oysters, lobster and crab are also frequently consumed.  The majority of the calories however, will almost always be from rice.

Fruits are also abundant in the lush, tropical regions of Sierra Leone and include: oranges, bananas, limes, lemons, pawpaws, avocados, watermelon, mangoes, guava and pineapples.  Fruit is typically consumed as a snack.  Plantains are fried and served as chips.  The stock cube, maggi, is also prominent in the cuisine, adding an umami, salty flavor, for which West African cuisine is well known.

Food is typically cooked over firewood or charcoal in large pots, placed directly over the flame.  It is only prepared by women or girls.

So let’s enjoy a Sierra Leone meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Grilled Oyster with Lime

Main Dish

Cassava Leaf Stew with Rice

Dessert

Ginger Cake

the meal served with:

Ginger Beer

We set the scene with colors of the Sierra Leone flag; green white and blue.  The green is symbolic of the agriculture and natural resources of the country.  White symbolizes justice and the blue is for the ocean and harbor of Freetown.  A lion figure was placed to represent the name of the country, as well as a coconut and a few palm fronds.  Rice, ginger and peanuts were added, as these are the staples of Sierra Leone.

Our first course was fresh, grilled oysters.  I have always eaten oysters raw and this was my first experience to grill them.  They actually open up on the grill and are incredibly succulent and delicious. They are simply served with a fresh squeeze of lime juice.  Grilling is a perfect way to enjoy oysters for those who are squeamish about eating oysters raw.  Oysters are abundant in the swampy mangroves that line the coast.  They are also an important source of income for the locals who harvest and sell them.

Our main course was cassava leaf stew, with sauce and served with steamed, rice balls.  It had a bit of beef in it, which is a luxury ingredient in Sierra Leone.  Cassava leaves were bought already pounded and the addition of eggplant, maggi, peanut butter, onions and smoked fish made this dish rich and flavorful.  It was a delight to the palate.

We set our plate in the center of the table and made little balls with the rice, which were then dipped into the sauce.  Food is to be eaten only with the right hand.  Typically, the men get the best pieces of meat, then the boys.  The women and girls get what is left.  It is important however, to only eat what is directly in front of where you are seated.  It is considered rude to reach over the platter.  It is also considered rude to talk during the meal.

For dessert, we enjoyed what is called, ginger cake.  I found it more like a bread than a cake but it was very tasty and a lovely way to end our meal; a sweet bite, topped with powdered sugar.

We enjoyed the whole meal with a very popular drink that is loved all over West Africa called, ginger beer. This was the non-alcoholic version and we loved it.  The ginger adds a surprising amount of heat to the drink.  The ginger settles on the bottom of the glass and can be added to your desired level of heat.

After dinner, we sat down and watched the adventure movie called, Blood Diamonds.  The movie depicts Sierra Leone during the civil war when diamonds were traded for weapons.  It was a tragic and violent time in this country’s history. 

As we say goodbye to Sierra Leone, I leave you with a few proverbs:

“A black cow gives white milk”

“To try and fail is not laziness”

and

“It is better to be loved than feared”

Until next time,

Good bye in Krio, “a de go”

Warmest regards,

Darlene Longacre

How did the Seychelles get its name?

Just hearing the name Seychelles conjures up dreamy, white sand beaches and oceans of every shade of green and blue.  It is known to be an island getaway and is very popular as a honeymoon destination.  It is pronounced, “Say-shells.” 

The name of one of the islands, Mahe’, was renamed by the French in 1776 after King Louis XV’s Minister of Finance, Jean Moreau de Sechelles, named it “Isle de Sechelles.”  The name has since been anglicized as Seychelles and is applied to the whole archipelago.

Where are the Seychelles located?

The Seychelles are an archipelago of 115 islands.  The islands are located in the Indian Ocean, about 1000 miles off the coast of Kenya in East Africa, and northeast of Madagascar.  The Seychelles are considered to be part of Africa but they do meet at the crossroads of Asia as well. 

The capital city is Victoria, which is on the largest island of Mahe.  About half of the islands are of granitic origin, with narrow coastal strips and ranges of hills.  The highest range is Morne Seychellois, which rises to just shy of 3000 ft.  The rest are coral atolls, many of which are uninhabited.  All together the islands are about the size of the tiny country of Andorra.

A Brief History of the Seychelles

The beautiful and bountiful islands were a must stop for early Islamic traders and they were known to be a sanctuary for pirates in the early 17^th century.  In fact, to this day, it is thought the famous pirate known as The Buzzard, hid his treasure there, which still remains undiscovered.  The Seychelles were charted by both Portuguese and Asian explorers.  However, it was the French who originally inhabited and colonized the islands, having laid claim in 1756 to establish spice and coconut plantations. 

The first settlers were slaves and French planters who arrived in 1770.  When they arrived, one of the biggest problems they faced were saltwater crocodiles.  It is believed they became nearly extinct around 1819.  It was ultimately the British who ended up with the Seychelles in 1814 as part of the Treaty of Paris, after the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars.  The Seychelles became a crown colony, separate from Mauritius in 1903.

The British transformed the islands economically with the establishment of cinnamon, vanilla  sugar cane, coconut and tea plantations. They also built up the capital city of Victoria (renamed after the Queen).  There are many landmarks that remain today which were built in the early 1900s.

The Seychelles gained independence in 1976, which was then quickly followed by a coup and eventually socialist rule.  It has been a newly established, free country since the 1990s.  Tourism is the main industry, making up most of the country’s revenue.

Today the Seychelles is known for its pristine beaches, fishing, birding and scuba diving as well as a honeymooner’s haven.

Seychelles Culture

The locals are called Seychellois and are a melting pot of cultures, mainly from Africa, Europe, India and Asia.  They speak Creole, English and French, all of which are official languages.  The Seychellois’ government is heavily invested in protecting the integrity of the Creole language.  The national newspaper is printed in both Creole and English.

The main religion is Roman Catholic, practiced by about 90 percent of the population, but there are members of other Christian denominations as well.  There are also Hindi Muslims and adherents to the Baha’i Faith.

Many Seychellois believe in ghosts.  In fact, there is an entire island, Moyenne Island, that is believed to be haunted, (many believe that is where the buried treasure is hidden.)  Shaman, known as bonom di dwa or man of the woods, are regularly consulted for solving problems through supernatural guidance.

The Seychellois family unit is matriarchal.  Institutional marriage is not widely practiced and unwed mothers are the societal norm.  The law, however, does hold fathers accountable for financial support for their children.  Nearly 75 percent of the children are born out of wedlock.  This structure is known as en menage and it carries no negative social stigma.

Under the constitution women enjoy the same status as men and comprise 45.8 percent of the total number of delegates; having one of the highest numbers of women in parliament in the world.  Despite the country being a land of many colors, racism is non-existent.

Music is very important to the Seychellois and has evolved over the years.  African influences dominate, mainly in the moutia and sega music, that are often accompanied by dance.  The moutia dates back to the days of slavery and is a slow, erotic dance that was actually banned by the British.  Sega has a Calypso like rhythm and is also very popular in Mauritius.  This is the dance where your feet are not lifted from the ground. 

Seychelles Cuisine

The original French settlers arrived with their legendary skills in the kitchen.  Their ability to blend spices and herbs was adapted to island living, where seafood is particularly abundant.  Coconut, mango, papaya, banana, pumpkin and the golden apple are often used to make tangy salads.  It is said that if you eat breadfruit on the Seychelles it will guarantee your return.  Pork, chicken and beef are available but seafood remains king.

When the British arrived, they added their influence to the Creole cuisine with tea, cakes, custards and crumbles, as well as corned beef.  This influence however was mild compared to what the Chinese brought with their love of noodles and rice, the Indians who introduced, curries, beans, chilies and dahls, and the Africans  who contributed their use of creamy coconut milk, cassava and bananas.  Add in the local spices such as: vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and lemongrass and you get a fusion Creole that is simply mouthwatering.  Fruit bat curry is considered one of the Seychelles specialties along with boudin, a blood sausage, sausage rougay (pork sausages in a rich tomato sauce.)  Freshly barbecued fish and kebabs can all be found in the night markets. 

So let’s enjoy a Seychellois meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Molouk (Crispy Fried, Flavored Dough)

Salad

Smoked Fish Salad

Main Course

Octopus Curry over White Rice

Dessert

Daube de Banana (Caramelized Bananas)

We set the scene with the national flower, an orchid, called tropicbird.  We included other tropical things like palm leaves, coconut and bananas to the décor, as well as cinnamon bark and the vanilla bean, as they remain huge exports.  A bit of sea life and shells were added, (after all it is the Seychelles.) 

We lit two candles, one of which had a picture of the famous tortoise, named Esmeralda, who is still living at 170 years of age on Bird Island.  He is the biggest and heaviest, free-roaming tortoise in the world, weighing a whopping 670 pounds.  Bird Island is home to the largest wild Aldabra tortoise population in the world and is a UNESCO world heritage site.  Speaking of large, every visitor to the Seychelles will learn about the Coco de Mer or “Love Nut.”  It’s the largest seed in the world and stands out due to its voluptuous shape.  The other candle we lit had a picture of the black parrot, the threatened national bird.  With candle light glowing, we put on Calypso music to set the island mood.

For the first course, we loved nibbling on molouk, as it is called there.  In India it is called murruku.  Molouk is served in most bars on the islands as a popular snack.  They are made with rice and chickpea flour with added spices, such as hot chili powder and cumin.  The dough is drawn through a noodle press to shape it into thick noodles with curves.  We enjoyed them with an icy cold beer, which is also quite popular there. 

For our next course we had the smoked fish salad.  Salads of all types are served in the Seychelles.  This one was made with smoked marlin, shredded cabbage, carrots and onions.  It was served with a lime and olive oil dressing.  I think I could savor this salad every single day.  A true keeper recipe from the Seychelles and I am certain any type of smoked fish would be equally amazing.

For the main course, we served octopus curry and quickly learned why some consider it the most famous dish in the Seychelles.  It is a creamy curry made with coconut milk but so flavorful as it is spiced with masala and chilies.  Octopus is one of my favorite seafoods and we absolutely loved this curry over steamed white rice.  The original version comes from the island of Praslin and is a must try recipe.

For dessert, we wanted to enjoy something with bananas.  The Daube de Banana was perfect.  Bananas are loved and abundant on the islands.  What an absolute joy to savor this dish with all the special flavors that come from the Seychelles like: vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and of course, coconut.  This was yet another perfect ending to an International Cuisine meal.  The Seychellois cuisine was reminiscent of delicious Mauritius, which makes sense since they share much of the same history. 

As we say goodbye to the beautiful island nation of the Seychelles, I leave you with a poem written by  Terry Brewer called, Thoughts from the Seychelles Islands:

The sun carresses this granite isle

Where quietness rules the day.

The other world is sometimes grim,

here we smile, it is the Seychelles way.

Morne Seychellois stands tall, touching his cloud

Guarding, watching, massive and proud.

While flying foxes, sea birds, giant tortoises roam

Making this peaceful green island their home.

Red earth roads scurry through verdant hills

Clinging to mountains with desperate wills.

Sometimes destroyed by furious rains,

Making cataracts where there are no drains.

In Victoria, the Cathedral clock strikes twice at noon

Reminding time – move on, slowly, well soon!

Why hurry, there’s time to do what is to be done

And time goes slower if you stand, so much quicker if you run.

We trade with the world, who know not quite where we are

Vanilla, salt fish, green snails, beche de mer, copra

Go to far distant lands with a skilled sailors ease,

In schooners creaking slowly through fickle green seas.

Praslin Island is not too far away

The Garden of Eden, General Gordon did say

With the Coco de Mer in the Valley de Mai

Black parrots, peace and the silence of creation day

No airstrip yet intrudes and defiles

These untouched, unique, so, so beautiful isles.

Though there will be one soon, I’ver heard them say

Sadly, progress will change the quiet Seychelles way

Until next time,

Oo-rer-vwa  (“Goodbye” in Creole)

Darlene

How did Serbia get its name?

Serbia is the name for “The Land of the Serbs,” although, the actual origin of the name is unclear.  Serbia has historically had several different names: “The People’s Republic of Serbia,” “The Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes,” “The Socialist Republic of Serbia,” and from 1992 to 2006 Serbia was part of “The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.”  Today her official name is, “The Republic of Serbia.”

Where is Serbia located?

Serbia is a Balkan nation located at the crossroads of central and southeastern Europe.  Serbia sits on the southern Pannonian Plain, known for its thriving agriculture, which accounts for nearly 60 percent of the land.  It is also home to mountains and forests. 

It was once the core of the much larger territory of Yugoslavia.  However, today it is landlocked, surrounded by eight neighbors, with which they still hold a few land disputes.  Serbia’s neighbors are: Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast,  Bulgaria to the southeast, Macedonia is south, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina  lie to the west and Montenegro to the southwest.  Serbia also claims a border with Albania, through the disputed territory of Kosovo. 

The Danube River, the second largest in Europe, passes through Serbia and is an important fresh water resource for the country.  Serbia  is also the home of Europe’s largest gorge; the Derdap Gorge, through which the mighty Danube flows.  The capital city is Belgrade and it is one of the oldest and largest cities of southeastern Europe.  It is a lively capital city and known for its party atmosphere. 

A Brief History of Serbia

Serbia has been inhabited since the Paleolithic Age.  By the sixth century, several regional states were established by Slavic migrations.  It was part of numerous kingdoms such as: the Byzantine, Frankish and Hungarian Kingdoms.  In 1217 the Serbian Kingdom was recognized by Constantinople, until its fall in 1346.

During the 16^th century the entirety of Serbia had been annexed by the Ottomans, with a few interruptions by the Hapsburg Empire.  In the early 19^th century, Serbia became a nation-state, following the Serbian Revolution and was the region’s first constitutional monarchy. 

The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria on June 28, 1914 in Sarajevo, by a Serbian member of the Young Bosnia Organization, led to Austria-Hungary declaring war on Serbia.  This is considered to be the start of World War I.  Serbia suffered mass casualties during the war with estimates as high as ¼ of the population at large and 57% of the male population. 

In 1929 King Alexander, the son of King Peter, established a dictatorship and changed the name of the country to Yugoslavia.  In 1941, Yugoslavia, which tried to remain neutral in World War II, was invaded by the Axis powers.  During this time, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Serbs fled the Axis puppet state, known as “The Independent State of Croatia” and sought refuge in the German occupied Serbia. 

Historians estimate that there were over one million war related deaths in Yugoslavia.  The Ustase regime (The Croatian Revolutionary Movement) was accused of systematically murdering somewhere between 300,000 and 500,000 Serbs. This mass killing of Serbs, Jews and Romas, was considered genocide.

After the war, Yugoslavia became a one party state known as, “The Communist Party of Yugoslavia.”  Tito ruled there for nearly four and a half decades.  Eventually, due to ethnic tensions and wars, Yugoslavia broke up.  After many changes in leadership and rule, Serbia finally gained independence, (even as the last holdout of what was known as Yugoslavia,) on June 5, 2006.

Today Serbia is a parliamentary republic, and they are trying to become part of the European Union.   In 2008 Kosovo declared independence from Serbia, although the government of Serbia does not recognize the declaration.

Serbian Culture

Serbia is home to just over seven million people, which includes the autonomous region of Vojvodina, but not the population of Kosovo.  The ethnic makeup of the country, over 80%, is nearly all Serbs.  The remainder are Hungarians, Romanis and Bosniaks.  The official language is Serbian, however other languages, such as Hungarian and Romani, are spoken.  There is now freedom of religion in the country, but most, (85%) are members of the Serbian Orthodox Church.  The next largest religious group is Roman Catholic and a minority of Serbs are Muslims and Jews.

Serbia, being at the crossroads of eastern and western halves of empires for centuries, has been greatly influenced by those cultures.  Serbia is believed to have provided nearly a fifth of the Roman Emperors, the most famous being Constantine the Great.  He is credited with the introduction of Eastern Christianity or Orthodoxy, in the early middle ages.  Serbia has five UNESCO world heritage sites, all of which are monasteries.   The most famous might be the Milesseva monastery, where the fresco known as the White Angel (1235) was chosen as the first satellite broadcast signal from Europe to America. It  was a symbol of peace.

Icons and fresco paintings are considered the best of Serbian art.  (Serbian art during the Ottoman occupation was non-existent.)  The country is still dotted with many well preserved castles, medieval fortifications and monasteries.  There are several important museums in Serbia, including the prominent National Museum of Serbia, founded in 1844, which houses very important Balkan works of art.

Pirot carpet is known as one of the most important traditional handicrafts in all of Serbia.  It is made in the town of Pirot, in southeastern Serbia.  It is considered to be a national symbol of Serbian culture and uses the skill of making rugs on a vertical loom.  Music, dance, theater and literature also play important roles in Serbia’s history and culture.

Serbia’s Cuisine

Serbian cuisine is influenced by the surrounding Balkan nations, especially those that were part of the former Yugoslavia.  These include a mixture of Byzantine-Greek, Mediterranean, Turkish and Oriental as well as Medieval Slavic influences.  

Food preparation is a big part of Serbia’s family traditions.  Many items, such as rakija (their famous fruit brandy), jams, jellies, avjar, pickled foods and sausages, are all made at home.  They have several national dishes such as: gibanica, (an egg and cheese pie made with filo dough,) pljeskavica, (a ground beef and pork patty), karadordena snicla, (a schnitzel,) as well as cevapi, (grilled ground meat.) 

Generally speaking, the cuisine is made up of rich meats, vegetables, breads, cheese, fresh pastries and desserts.  The flavors are generally mild, fresh and natural.  As Serbians love to eat fresh produce, the seasonality dictates what is on the menu.  The cuisine is typically only lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika.  The national drink is the famous plum brandy, called sljivovica or their homemade rakija.    There is also a strong coffee culture.

So let’s enjoy a Serbian meal:

The Menu

Apertif & Appetizer

Meze (Assorted prosciutto with cheese and hard-boiled egg)

Served with: Šljivovica (Plum Brandy- the national drink)

Salad

Šopska Salata (Serbian salad with cheese)

Main Course

Ćevapi u lepinja sa kajmakom (Ground meat kebabs in flat bread with Kaymak)

(Also called Ćevapčići, this is one of the national dishes of Serbia)

Dessert

Suva Pita sa Orasmima (Walnut Pie)

We began to set the scene with raspberries and plums, as Serbia is the second largest exporter of each.  Also a jar of paprika was added and a statue of a vampire, representing the two Serbian words that made it into the English language.  We set the table with gold silverware, as an old Serbian legend says that in the 14^th century, meals in the Serbian palace were eaten with golden forks and spoons.  A cross was placed in the scene, to represent their Eastern Orthodox religion.  Finally, a tennis ball was added to represent the number one tennis player in the world; Novak Djokovic.  (Interestingly most Serbians last names end in “ic.”)

We began our meal with a toast, “Ziveli” which means, “Cheers” in Serbian.  It was accompanied by music, laughter and the clinking of glasses filled with plum brandy.  We enjoyed the aperitif along with meze, which means “little bites” and is similar to an Italian antipasto.  Our meze consisted of prosciutto, cornichons, pickled onions, olives, hard-boiled eggs and feta cheese.  We love meze, it was the perfect appetizer.

Next, we enjoyed a typical Serbian salad that is also popular all over the region called, Šopska Salata.  This is a basic salad made with cucumber, tomato, bell pepper and onions and topped with Serbian white cheese.  It is dressed with a simple, sunflower oil and white vinegar dressing and garnished with chives.  Excellent.

For the main course we savored one of Serbia’s national dishes, Ćevapi u lepinja sa kajmakom (Kebabs in flat bread with kaymak).  Everything was made from scratch, from the bread, called lepinja, to the grilled meat kebabs that were ground using lamb, beef and pork.  I even made up my own version of kaymak, which is a creamy dairy product that you smother on top of the lepinja.   We loved it all!

For dessert, we had this walnut pie called Suva Pita sa Orasmima, which is similar to baklava.  It is a sweet bite of heaven made with ground walnuts, which Serbians consider an aphrodisiac.  We enjoyed the dessert with a strong cup of coffee to end our fantastic Serbian meal.

As we say goodbye to this intriguing country of Serbia, known for their hospitality,  I leave you with a  few Serbian proverbs: 

The wound heals, the scar remains.

He who drinks on credit, gets drunk twice.

Peace pays what war wins.

and

A good deed is the best form of prayer.

Until next time,

“Zbogom” which means, “Goodbye,” in Serbian.

Warmest Regards,

Darlene Longacre

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How did Senegal get its name?

There are a few stories about the name Senegal.  Some believe that the country is named after the river of the same name that runs along its northern border, before entering the Atlantic Ocean.  Some historians believe the name may come from a Saharan Berber people called the Zenega, who lived north of the river.  In the Wolof language, “Sunugaal” means “Our Canoe” and the story goes that there was a miscommunication with a Portuguese captain and a Wolof fisherman over a canoe. This is the etymology of choice accepted by the Senegalese people, due to the charming symbolism of a nation, “all in the same boat.”

Where is Senegal located?

Senegal is located on the Cap-Vert peninsula in West Africa on the Atlantic coast.  Its vibrant capital city of Dakar, is the westernmost city on the African mainland.  Senegal has many neighbors: Mali, Mauritania, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea and she wholly surrounds the small country of The Gambia.  This oddity makes the country look on a map like a big mouth taking a bite.

A Brief History of Senegal

It is believed the first humans in Senegal were hunters but sometime, around 3000 BC, they learned to farm.  By 500 AD a sophisticated society arose to make intricate iron tools and buildings made out of stone circles.  Towns and trade flourished.  In the 13^th century Senegal was part of the Empire of Mali, which lasted until their decline.  In the 15^th century, Senegal was broken up into several small kingdoms.

The first Europeans to arrive there were the Portuguese in 1544.  They began to trade with the Africans.  In the early 16^th century, the Portuguese started taking slaves from West Africa in large numbers to work sugar plantations.  The English, Dutch and French all established slave trading stations along the coast.  The Ile de Goree was taken by the French from the Dutch in 1677.   During the 18^th century, the slave trade flourished.  Europeans persuaded Africans from the coast to attack neighboring tribes and take captives.  Millions were shipped across the Atlantic in appalling conditions.  Today there is a museum called the House of Slaves with the “Door of No Return” that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It is a solemn place for contemplation and reflection.

The French took over Senegal and made it the headquarters of their growing West African empire.  This gave the Senegalese people education and healthcare that many other nations did not receive.  They also were a prosperous colony exporting ground nuts.  The French ended up giving independence to Senegal on June 20, 1960 as part of a union with Mali.  That was short-lived and Senegal became a separate nation on August 20, 1960.  Leopold Senghor, a catholic, became the first leader and is considered to be the founding father of the nation.  He introduced a new constitution in 1980.  Senegal is a poor country but unique in the world in many respects.

Senegalese Culture

The Sengelase have a motto, a way of life, called “Teranga,” which basically means “Hospitality.”  “The more I give, the more I have.”  This simple philosophy has shaped the nation in profound ways.

The country is made up of about 16 million people coming from about 20 ethnic groups.  The largest is the Wolof, however each ethnicity is important in the political, social and cultural spheres of the country.  The Wolof language is spoken by the majority of the people in Senegal and what you typically hear in the streets.  French and Arabic are considered to be the official languages, used in schools and government.

The country is 96 percent Sufi Muslim, a more mystical sect of Islam which was introduced in the 11^th century.  Christians, mostly Roman Catholics make up the balance.  They are a peaceful nation.  Western clothing is common in the urban areas of Senegal.  It is a choice however and many women prefer to wear a long, loose fitting, dress called boubous, with a matching headscarf.  

Like most African countries, Senegal has an age-old tradition of storytelling.  Written literature of Senegal is considered to be amongst the most important in West Africa.  Leopold Senghor, the founding father, is one of the most globally recognized poets.  Crafts such as glass painting, basket weaving, mask-making, wood carving, and textile painting are just a few of their specialties.

Music also plays an integral role in society.  The traditional music of the country has been influenced by the Malian Empire but it is faster and livelier.  Each ethnic group brings their own unique sounds and dance styles to the fusion of the nation.

Polygynous marriages are common in Senegal.  Households are often large and consist of a man and his multiple wives and children. The social structure is based on kinship.  Children and elders are highly regarded and children are taught social values at an early age.  In fact, the communal plate of food is a way to teach values.  The children have to wait, and only eat around the edges.  Adults get the triangle portion in front them and the women leave bites of protein for the children to enjoy.  With Teranga however, there is always room at the table for a guest. 

Senegalese Cuisine

Some say Senegalese cuisine is the best in the whole of Africa.  It has been influenced by North Africa, the French and Portuguese.   Being a nation of mostly Muslims, alcohol and pork are not consumed by the majority, but still available.  It is common to see a Senegalese enjoying a glass of bissap (a purplish juice made from the hibiscus flower) alongside a friend enjoying a local beer.

Because Senegal has rivers and borders the Atlantic Ocean, fish are very important to their cuisine.  Peanuts are the primary crop of Senegal.  In fact, they are one of the world’s largest exporters of peanuts.  Couscous, made of millet, white rice, sweet potatoes, lentils, black-eyed peas and numerous other vegetables, are considered staples.  Meat, fish and vegetables are typically stewed or marinated in herbs and spices and then served over rice, couscous or enjoyed with a French-style baguette.

Some of Senegal’s most popular dishes are: thieboudienne, which translates to the rice of fish, thiebou yapp, which translates to rice of meat and is typically made with beef or lamb. thiebou guinar is the rice of chicken and thiebou guerte is the rice of peanut.  Yassa, maafe and dibi are also popular which were made for neighboring countries.  Desserts like cinq centimes, aka the five cent cookie, is a peanut cookie that is quite popular as is thiakry, a millet pudding, or banana soup.

So let’s enjoy a Senegalese meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Ndambe (Spicy Bean Sandwich)

Main Course

Thieboudienne (Fish and Rice)

Served with

Saladu Awooka Ak Mango (Avocado and Mango Salad)

Dessert

Thiakry (Millet Pudding)

We set the scene with the colors of the flag; red, yellow and green.  Peanuts started the decor, as that is their main crop.  Cotton, which is another important crop, along with millet were placed.  A soccer ball was added to represent the national sport.  A photo of the famous Baobab tree was placed which is also called “the tree of life” and is a national symbol of Senegal.  These massive trees are in danger from drought and population growth but you will find them in the center of many villages, and always serve as a gathering place.  We put on Youssou N’Dour music.  In 2004, Rolling Stone magazine described him as “ the most famous singer alive.” You should check him out.

Our first course was a famous street food that can be found all over the country.  It is called ndambe, a spicy bean and beef mixture that is slathered on a French baguette.  In Senegal, you first buy your fresh bread and then find your favorite ndambe vendor.  Sometimes they are made with lentils and have no meat.  It is a wonderful sandwich that is often enjoyed for breakfast.

The main course was the famous thieboudienne, pronounced “ceebu jen,”  the national dish of Senegal.  The classic Senegalese dish is a fish stew with vegetables, served over rice.  It is no ordinary fish stew as it is bursting with layers of flavor.  The fish is first stuffed or marinated with a puree of parsley, green onions, garlic, chili and Maggi.  (Honestly, this puree can be used as a marinade on so many things, I fell in love.)  The fish is then fried and set aside, the vegetables are cooked until tender with the left over puree, along with chopped onion and tomato.  Smoked fish and a unique ingredient called Netetou is added, which is made from a seed and then fermented.  It adds a unique, almost umami flavor.  It is a staple spice used in many West African countries.  The rice, typically made with broken rice kernels, is cooked until tender.  Then the whole meal was plated onto a communal dish, which was eaten using a spoon.   Alongside the main course, we enjoyed a refreshing avocado and mango salad.  This was the perfect accompaniment to the hearty main dish, as it had a lovely, fresh, citrusy flavor.

For dessert, we loved thiakry.  It is a sweet pudding, similar to a rice pudding but this was made with millet.  It was flavored with vanilla and nutmeg and topped with raisins and pistachios.  We enjoyed it with mint tea, which is served in three varying concoctions, as is done in neighboring countries Mali and Mauritania.

As we say goodbye to this most intriguing country of Senegal, it is my hope that we can all implement more Teranga into our lives. 

 I leave you with a few Senegalese proverbs:

“There can be no peace without understanding.”

“An empty belly has no ears.”

and

“A lobster loves water, but not when he’s being cooked in it.”

Until next time,

“Jai-rruh-jef”  (“Thank you”) in Wolof

Darlene

How did Saudi Arabia get its name?

Saudi Arabia is the only country in the world named after a family.  The Al-Sauds have traced their origins back to the 1700s, when Saud bin Mohammad ruled as a local sheikh on the central Arabian peninsula.  The official name is the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

Where is Saudi Arabia Located?

Saudi Arabia is located in the Middle East.  It is a desert country that encompasses most of Arabian peninsula. It is large, about 830,000 square miles, and is the 13^th largest country in the world.  It has two coastlines, with a total length of 1640 miles; the Red Sea and the Persian or (Arabian) gulf coastlines.

It has many neighbors: Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south.  It is separated from Israel and Egypt by the Gulf of Aqaba.

Despite most of the land being an uninhabited desert, which includes the world’s largest contiguous sand desert, called the Empty Quarter, it also has hills and mountains in the west and southwest along the Red Sea.  The highest peak is Jabal Sawda which rises 9,843 feet above sea level. The country has no natural lakes or rivers.

Riyadh is the capital and home to more than 8 million people, making it the most populous city in the country.  It is located in the center of the Arabian peninsula on a large plateau.

A Brief History of Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia can trace its roots back to the earliest civilizations of the Arabian peninsula.  Over the centuries, it played an important role in trade but it is best known as the birthplace of Islam; the world’s second largest religion after Christianity.  Prior to the 7^th century, most of Saudi Arabia was inhabited by nomadic tribes.  It was Muhammad, the prophet of Islam, who was born in Mecca that united many of these tribes.  After his death in 632, his Arab followers began to expand the area of Muslim rule well beyond Arabia.

In the 16^th century, the Ottoman Empire took over, taking control of both coasts along the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf.  It was in the 18^th century when the House of Saud began to emerge as a power.  Muhammad bin Saud started the dynasty along with Muhammad ibn Adb-dl-Wahhad, a religious leader and the founder of the Wahhabi movement.  They stayed in power until the Ottomans regained control in 1818.  This alliance, formed in the 18^th century, provided the ideological impetus to Saudi expansion and remains the basis of the dynastic rule today.  At this time, another family, the Al Rashid, also came into power.  In 1902, Abul-Aziz bin Saud returned from exile in Kuwait and seized Riyadh, ousting the Al Rashid and uniting the kingdom.

Saudi Arabia became an independent nation after the Ottoman Empire was defeated in World War I.  Abdul-Aziz bin Saud regained power.  In 1932 the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was established with Abdul-Aziz as king.  He set up Saudi Arabia as an absolute monarchy and has remained in power with six of his sons in succession, poised to reign over the kingdom. The king of Saudi Arabia is also known as the custodian of the Two Holy Mosques.  Saudi Arabia is home to Islam’s holiest shrines in Mecca; one where the prophet Muhammad was born and Medina, where he was buried.

Saudi Arabia struck oil in 1938 and by 1949 was in full production.  This began under the US-controlled Aramco (Arabian American Oil Company.)  The discovery of oil reserves made Saudi Arabia one of the richest nations in the world.  They are the world’s largest oil producer and exporter of oil, controlling the world’s second largest oil reserves, and the sixth largest gas reserves.

In February 1945, King Abdul Aziz met with President Franklin D. Roosevelt aboard the USS Quincy in the Suez Canal.  A historic handshake, agreeing to supply the US with oil in exchange for guaranteed protection to the Saudi regime, is still in force to this day.  This agreement has survived seven Saudi Kings and twelve US presidents.

In 1960 Saudi Arabia became a founding member of OPEC (Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries.)  In 1973, Saudi Arabia led an oil boycott against western countries that supported Israel during the October, Yom Kipur War with Egypt and Syria.  Oil prices quadrupled.  In 1980, Saudi Arabia took full control of Aramco from the US.

In 1994 the Islamic dissident, Osama Bin Laden, was stripped of his Saudi nationality and started the terror group known as Al-Qaeda in Afghanistan.  On September 11, 2001 they staged the worst terror attack ever committed on US soil.  Planes were purposely flown into the World Trade Center in New York and the Pentagon in Washington, D.C.  Fifteen of the nineteen hijackers involved in the attack were Saudi nationals.

In 2011, the whole area in the Middle East was dealing with unrest, known as the Arab Spring.  In an effort to keep the unrest at bay, King Abdullah announced increased welfare spending and more rights for women, including the right to vote and to run in municipal elections.  This made Saudi Arabia the last country in the world to give women the right to vote.

The current leader is King Salman, however, his son, Prince Mohammad bin Salman, who is next in line to the throne, is believed to be the driving force behind Saudi reforms.  He has recently allowed women the right to get a driver’s license, and has allowed the return of public cinema.  However, the world was recently horrified over the killing and dismemberment of a reporter named Jamal Khashoggi, that occurred in the Saudi consulate in Turkey.  There has been an international outcry as a result and we are waiting to see what happens next.

The Saudis have also been funding a war in nearby Yemen.  Saudi Arabia is supporting the coalition (which is also supported by other nations, including the United States of America,) in fighting the Houthi rebels, which, since 2015, has resulted in a horrific civil war.  Yemen remains in the middle of a humanitarian catastrophe, yet it has been dubbed the forgotten war.

Saudi Arabian Culture

Saudi Arabia has a population of about 33 million people.  Its primary ethnic group is Arab and the main religion is Sunni Islam.  The country’s currency is the Riyal, which is tied to the US dollar.  The official language is Arabic.

The rich culture of Saudi Arabia takes its cues from its Islamic heritage.  Its historical role is as an ancient trade center and it upholds its Bedouin traditions.  The country is run by Sharia law and all of its holidays are based on the Islamic religion.

The highlights of the year are the holy month of Ramadan, a time in which they fast from dusk till dawn and which ends with the Eid-Al-Fitr, a holiday where families and friends exchange gifts.  Additionally, the hajj (pilgrimage) season, culminates with Eid-Al-Adha, when families slaughter a sheep in memory of Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son, and then they share the meat with the poor.  The hajj is a mandatory, religious duty for all Muslims to visit the holiest city of Mecca.  This must be carried out once in their lifetime.  The pilgrimage is considered to be one of the five pillars of Islam.

The country is 100% Muslim, except for the foreigners who are brought there for work, which accounts for some 9 million people.  There is no freedom of religion.  The Islamic teachings and Arab customs are taught in schools at an early age.

As the birthplace of Islam, the Kingdom places a special emphasis on preserving its Islamic archeological heritage.  The two most important sites are the Holy Mosque in Mecca and the Prophet’s Mosque in Medina.   Minarets are the most visible, man-made, structures in Saudi Arabia.  They jut from the skyline of every urban center.  The minarets are meant to be a Muslim society’s bond with God.  The reason they rise above all other structures is to allow the call to prayer to be heard, which occurs five times per day.

Poetry, folk music and dancing are a living piece of the country’s history, which has been shaped by the nomadic Bedouins for centuries.  The national dance is the men’s sword dance, known as the Ardha.  Men carrying swords stand in two lines or in a circle, with a poet singing in their midst, while they perform the traditional dance.

Saudis prefer traditional clothes to western styles.  The loose flowing, traditional garments are practical for the Kingdom’s hot and windy climate, as well as in keeping with the Islamic ideal of modesty.  Men wear a typical white, ankle length shirt called a thawb.  On their heads they wear a large square of cotton that is folded over a skull cap and held in place with a cord.  Women customarily wear a black outer cloak, called an abaya, over their dress, which very likely is modern.  On their heads they wear a black, gauzy scarf that is wrapped around the head and called a shayla.  Some women wear veils made of sheer material, which has been a tradition even before the advent of Islam.  The thin veil provides protection from constant exposure to the sun.  Today, a veil is also a sign of modesty and virtue.  Jewelry has also been part of the Arabian dress for thousands of years.

Saudi Arabian Cuisine

Nearly all types of cuisines, including fast foods, are available in this wealthy nation, but the Saudis prefer traditional foods.  Also, despite the area only receiving about 4 inches of rain per year, they have managed to become food independent, and have developed a strong agriculture sector, producing all their own dairy and vegetables. They have built very deep wells and desalinization plants to provide for an ample water supply.

As Saudi Arabia is an Islamic state, pork and alcohol are forbidden.  Animals must be butchered according to Islamic law and blessed before they are eaten.  Saudi Arabia is the largest importer of live sheep and ranks as the highest consumer of broiler chickens.  Lamb is traditionally served to honored guests and for special occasions.  Camel is also consumed, as is its milk, which has long been a staple of the Bedouin diet.  The largest camel market in the world, selling a 100 head of camel a day, can be found in the capital city of Riyadh.  Yogurt is used in sauces, eaten alone and made into a drink called lassi.

The main ingredients in their diet are fava beans, wheat, rice, yogurt and of course dates.  Saudi Arabia has over 18 million date palms that produce 600 million pounds of dates each year.  Flat breads, called fatir or kimaje, which are similar to a pita, are used as utensils to scoop up their meal.  Thick soups are popular, as are stuffed vegetables, bean salads and tabbouleh, a salad made with bulgur wheat.

Often times, dates, dried fruits and nuts, along with sweet tea, are served as appetizers or snacks and sweet desserts are enjoyed at the end of meal.  Coffee, called gawha, is a centuries old tradition and served in tiny coffee cups.  It is considered very rude to refuse a cup of coffee and it should always be enjoyed in odd numbers.  Coffee houses are gathering spots for many Saudi men.

Spices such as cardamom, saffron, cumin, coriander, cinnamon and cloves are all prevalent in Saudi cuisine.   They also enjoy eating foods with a serving of a super spicy sauce, called shattah.

So let’s enjoy a Saudi Arabian meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Akkawi Manakeesh (Arabic Cheese Bread with Nigella Seeds)

Main Course

Al Kabsa (Spiced Rice and Chicken)

Served with

Shattah (Spicy Hot Sauce)

Dessert

Ma’amul (Short Biscuits, Stuffed with Dates and Nuts)

We set the scene by placing a rug on the floor, as it is tradition to eat on the floor in a cross-legged position.  To decorate, we added palm fronds, dates and a sword, to represent the fight of Abd-al-Aziz.  A traditional coffee pot, along with a calligraphy pen was added, as calligraphy is a beloved art form there that dates back some 1400 years, to the first century of Islam.  Because its primary subject matter has been the Holy Qur’an, calligraphy is considered to be the quintessential Islamic art form.  An Arabian horse figurine was also placed, as they have a long history of breeding horses there.

We began the meal with a hand washing ritual, which is customary.  We then said, “Sahtain” which basically means, “Bon appetite” and “Bismillah,” which means, “In the name of God.”  Our first course was a scrumptious little cheese bread.  It was made with a flat bread and a salty cheese called akkawi.  The cheese comes in a brine and is rinsed to remove the salt before serving.  It was topped with nigella seeds and baked in a hot oven, similar to a pizza.  I also made another version that was topped with a spice mixture  called za-atar.  We loved them both!  We ate the bread with just our right hand, which is the socially acceptable tradition there.

For the main course, we savored the national dish called Al Kabsa.  It was reminiscent of other rice dishes I have made previously from the region; such as machboos, from Bahrain or murabyan, from Kuwait.  This was a spiced rice, with chicken dish but what made this one special, was the very, spicy sauce called shittah.  The sauce was served on the side.  To me, it truly elevated the dish and I will make that spicy sauce accompaniment often.

For dessert we had a very popular Arabic cookie, called Ma’amul.  It is a bit dry, like a short biscuit, but with a lovely nut and date interior.  They were baked in a ma’amul mold, which makes a lovely decoration for the cookie.  They were then covered with powdered sugar and rose petals.  The cookies went great with a robust, little cup of Arabic coffee.

When we finished our meal, we said “Diamah,” which means “May there always be plenty at your table.”  The Saudis are known for their generous hospitality to guests and strangers.  If you ever get the opportunity to experience this hospitality, you should definitely take part.

Until next time,

Darlene

How did Sao Tome and Principe get their names?

The two, uninhabited, volcanic islands, that formed this nation, were founded by Portuguese navigators who arrived on Sao Tome on the feast day of Saint Thomas, in 1471.  Principe was originally discovered on St. Anthony’s Day, in 1472 and initially was named Santo Antao.  In 1502, the name was changed to Ilha do Principe or Prince’s Island, after the Portuguese prince who received the islands’ sugar crop duties.  The rich volcanic soil was ideal for setting up plantations to grow sugar.

Where is Sao Tome and Principe located?

The two islands are about 31 miles (or 50 km) apart and are located in the Atlantic Ocean, in the Gulf of Guinea, just north of the equator.  The closest neighbor is the West African nation of Gabon, about 186 miles or (300 km) away to the northeast.  The islands are part of the Cameroon volcanic, mountain line.  Sao Tome is about 30 miles long and 20 miles wide and is the more mountainous of the two islands.  Its tallest peak reaches 6,640 feet but its most famous peak is Pico Cao Grande; a landmark, skyscraper like, volcanic plug, which is also known as the Great Dog Peak.  It rises over 1000 feet above the surrounding terrain, with the summit being 2175 feet above sea level.  The islands feature striking rock and coral formations, lush tropical rainforests and beautiful beaches.  The climate is hot and humid, with an average temperature of 80 degrees.  The rainy season is between October and May, and annual rainfall can vary from 40 inches to 196 inches.

A Brief History of Sao Tome and Principe

The islands were discovered without any inhabitants.  The Portuguese discoverers felt the islands would be good locations for bases to trade with the mainland.  The first successful settlement of Sao Tome was established in 1493 by Alvaro Caminha, who received a land grant from the crown.  Principe was established seven years later, in 1500.  One problem they faced was attracting settlers.  So the first inhabitants, who were deemed “undesirables,” sent from Portugal, were mostly Jews.  Slave labor was brought in later, in large numbers, from the African mainland to work the sugar plantations.  By the mid-16^th century the Portuguese settlers had turned the islands into Africa’s largest exporter of sugar.  The islands were taken over and administered by the Portuguese crown, in 1522 for Sao Tome and then in 1573 for Principe.

Competition from other sugar producing colonies began to hurt the islands.  Sugar cultivation started to decline over the next 100 years.  In the 17^th century, the islands economy changed and was instead a transit point for ships engaged in the slave trade between the West and the African mainland.

In the 19^th century, two new crops, coffee and cocoa, were introduced.  It didn’t take long for numerous new plantations, called rocas, to occupy almost all of the good, rich volcanic farmland.  The rocas were mostly owned by Portuguese companies or absentee landlords. By 1908, Sao Tome became the world’s largest producer of the highly sought after cocoa, which remains an important crop today.

Unfortunately, the system of rocas, led to abuses against the African farm workers.  Although slavery was officially abolished in 1876 by the Portuguese, the practice of forced paid labor continued.  Years of uprisings eventually culminated into what is known as the “Batepa massacre,” which was a clash between African workers and their Portuguese rulers.   Several hundred African laborers were killed in the massacre.  This was a major turning point in 1953, which later became a memorial, observed each year on February 3^rd, by the government.

Sao Tome and Principe achieved peaceful independence on July 12, 1975.  In 1990, Sao Tome became one of the first countries to undergo democratic reform.  They held non-violent, free and transparent elections.  Although the country has had a few uprisings since that time, it has a reputation for being a safe and democratic society, that functions under a multi-party system.

Sao Tome and Principe Culture

The population of both islands is currently about 213,000.  All are descended from various ethnic groups that have migrated to the islands since 1485.  There are six different groups:  Mestizo, or mixed heritage is the first group, and are descendants of Portuguese colonists and African slaves.  They are considered the “Children of the Land.”  Angolares, are descendants of Angolan slaves, who survived a shipwreck in 1540.  Today most Angolares earn their livelihood as fisherman.  Forros, are descendants of freed slaves.  Servicas are contract laborers, who lived only temporarily on the islands.  Tongas, are the children of Servicas, who were born on the islands.  Europeans, mostly Portuguese, and some Asians, make up the balance of the population.

Due to its diverse population Sao Tome and Principe have four official languages: Portuguese, Portuguese creole (called Forro), Angolar and Principense.  French, however, is learned in school and the country is a member of Francophonie.  Almost the entire population belongs to either Roman Catholic or Evangelical Protestant religions.  However, there are others religions practiced there because of the Freedom of Religion Act.

It is no surprise that music plays an important role.  Santomaen’s are known for ussua and socope rhythms, while Principe is home to the dexa beat.  It is believed that Portuguese ballroom music played an integral role in the development of these rhythms and dances, as well as musical traditions from various regions of Africa.   They are also known for tchiloli; a dramatic story told through music, dance and theatre.

Sao Tome and Principe Cuisine

The two biggest influences on the cuisine are their location and from the origin of the inhabitants.  African and Portuguese cuisines blend together into a wonderful fusion of flavors.  Of course, being islands, seafood plays an important role.  Fish is their main source of protein, which is often eaten with indigenous root crops.  Breadfruit and jackfruit are both very popular.  Other staple foods are beans, maize and cooked bananas (some seven varieties.)  Tropical fruits like pineapple, avocado, mango, bananas, soursop and things you have never seen, even in the most exotic produce section of your local market, also play significant roles.

Being a small, two-island nation, most of their food is imported from Portugal.  Calulu, is considered the national dish, which comprises smoked fish, palm oil and vegetables, along with peppers, to add spice.  Generally, they like their food with a little kick.  Many of their dishes are also flavored with local coffee; used like a spice, in sauces.  The national drink is palm wine, but they make a few beers and local rum as well.  Sao Tome, the capital with the same name, is home to the main market where imported items from Portugal such as sausages and salami stuffed in bread rolls can be found.  It is common to see grilled corn on sticks served as a popular street food.

So let’s eat a Sao Tome and Principe meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Sanduiche de Salsicha (Sausage Sandwich)

Main Course

Matata (Clams in Port Wine)

Dessert

Banana Bolo (Banana Cake)

We set the scene with several of their staple ingredients: bananas, avocados, coffee and cocoa.  A palm leaf was placed to represent the tropical rainforests, along with a few exotic flowers and seashells.  A soccer ball was added, since soccer is the national sport, and a religious cross completed the scene.

The first course was one of my favorite things; a sausage sandwich.  Grilled linguica, is my “go to” Portuguese sausage and paired with a little mustard and bread, makes for a wonderful appetizer.  We enjoyed it with the famous Portuguese, Super Bock beer.

Our main course was called matata; a lovely clam dish cooked in port wine and served over steamed, white rice.  The dish was really quick and easy to make and was so delicious.  It was flavored with onion, tomato and spinach, with a touch of heat from red pepper flakes.  It also had a nice crunch from peanuts in the sauce.  It was a super easy, delightful dish that I will make often.

For dessert, we enjoyed banana bolo, or banana cake.  It is the topping that makes this dessert so amazing.  It is basically caramel, topped with banana pieces.  This was served slightly warm and was an absolute delight.  (Fair warning, you will want more than one piece.)  We savored this dessert with a robust cup of hot coffee.

As we say goodbye to this tiny, two-island nation, called Sao Tome and Principe, I leave you with  a saying that is heard all over the islands;  “Leve’ leve’,” which means, “Easy easy.”  It’s a simple saying that is good reminder to us to slow down, take our time, and enjoy all that life has to offer.

Until next time,

Leve’ leve’

Darlene Longacre

How did San Marino get its Name?

It is believed that Marinus, a Christian stonemason seeking refuge from religious persecution on Mount Titano, founded the state.  The story goes that shortly after Marinus was ordained a Deacon, in nearby Rimini, he was accused by an insane woman of being her estranged husband. So he fled to Mount Titano, to build a chapel and a monastery and live as a hermit.  From this community, the State of San Marino later grew.  Marinus was venerated to Saint Marinus by both the Roman Catholic Church and the Eastern Orthodox Church.  The State’s national holiday is celebrated on his feast day/memorial day, September 3^rd, commemorating the day in 301 AD when he founded what became known as San Marino.

Where is San Marino Located?

San Marino is an enclave located on the slopes of Mount Titano, on the Adriatic side of central Italy between the Emilia-Romagna and Marche regions.  It is landlocked and wholly surrounded by Italy.  It is one of the few remaining city-states that proliferated across Europe.  It has the distinction of being the world’s oldest sovereign state and constitutional republic ever recorded.  San Marino is Europe’s third smallest state and the world’s fifth smallest, after the Vatican, Monaco, Nauru and Tuvalu.  The whole Republic of San Marino is only 23.63 square miles.  The highest point of Mount Titano is 2457 feet above sea level and there are no bodies of water of any significant size.

A Brief History of San Marino

In the earliest days of its existence, its de facto independence was maintained because it was an inaccessible city state with no wealth to speak of and therefore absorbing it would be more trouble than it was worth.  So it was largely left untouched by the Romans and later the neighboring states.  In 1631, the Papal States which surrounded San Marino, formally recognized her independence.  This has lasted until the present day, despite being at times surrounded by a war zone.  Napoleon even left it alone because it was the oldest constitutional republic.  Garibaldi who was responsible for Italy’s unification granted San Marino’s wish to remain independent largely due to it being a safe haven for pro-unification refugees in the days leading up to unification.

During World War II, in 1944, San Marino was briefly occupied by German soldiers before they were run out by allied soldiers.

As of 2002, San Marino has used the Euro as its currency and does not have border patrol.  You can, however, pay to get a passport stamp at the tourism office, along with much sought after stamps.

The government of San Marino is unlike any other nation.  It does not have a prime minister or a king or a president.  For the head of state, they actually are headed by two Captain Regents, which are usually from two different parties. They are voted in by the Grand and General Council, which is where the true power lies.  The people elect the 60 council members who serve a five year term.  The practice of having dual rulers had been an old practice of Roman overlords, which they decided to retain, as it worked so well for them.

San Marino Culture

The people of San Marino are called Sammarinese.  They speak Italian.  The Republic is densely populated, with about 530 people per square mile.  The total population is around 33,000.  They take great pride in their heritage and roots, which can be traced back to ancient Rome.

Everything in San Marino has Italian features, from food, to fashion sense.  Like Italy, San Marino is a staunch Roman Catholic territory.  Over 95% of Sammarinese go to catholic churches and celebrate the customs and traditions set by the Vatican.

The Sammarinese also love their sports, especially soccer, basketball and volleyball.  Each of these sports has their own league but of the three, soccer is by far the most popular.  They also are fanatical about Formula One racing.  There used to be a San Marino Grand Prix that was held in Imola, Italy.  In 2007 the government decided to stop holding the race due to the bitter memories of the legendary Ayrton Senna and Roland Ratzenberger who both died at the San Marino Grand Prix races.

Despite living on a mountain slope the Sammarinese take pride in their healthy foods and long life span.  On average the Sammarinese, who have lived their lives in San Marino, have an average life span of 80 years.

Tourism is most important to San Marino’s GDP.  They welcome about 2 million visitors each year in their tiny Republic.

San Marino Cuisine

It is no surprise that Sammarinese cuisine takes its cues from Italy.  It has a Mediterranean flair emphasizing fresh and locally grown produce, Italian pasta and meats.  It is most similar to the Romagna region, where many dishes are shared. Yet the Sammarinese do have their own dishes as well.  Faglioni con le cotiche, is a soup that is made with Christmas beans and bacon.  Pasta e cece has chickpea noodles flavored with rosemary and garlic.  The Sammarinese are well known for their cheese making and olive oil pressing skills.  In fact, they had three exhibitions at the Paris world fair back in 1899.

Meals and the enjoyment of food is a large part of Sammarinese culture.  They also are very proud of their three towers, located on the three peaks of Monte Titano.  So it is not surprising that they named their desserts after them.  Torta Titano and Torta tre Monte, are just a couple of cakes inspired by them.

Of course wine is also prevalent in the region.  San Marino produces cask-aged, red and white wines.   They serve a Brugneto or Tessano, which are red wines, when red meat is on the menu.  If the main course is white meat or fish, Biancale or Roncale, which are white, are served.

So let’s enjoy a Sammarinese meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Burrata Crustini (Cheese Toast)

Soup Course

Stracciatella Alla Romana (Egg Drop Soup)

Main Course

Nidi di Rondine (Swallows Nest Pasta)

Served with:

Conigilio al Forno con Finoccio (Roasted Rabbit and Fennel)

Dessert

Torta Tre Monti (Waffled Wafers with Hazelnut Cream)

We decorated with the colors of the San Marino flag; blue and white.  I placed three candles to represent the three towers of Monte Titano, along with oak and laurel branches that are on their Coat of Arms.  A cross and a stone completed the scene.

We began our meal by saying,  “Saluti” which means, “Cheers” as we toasted our glasses filled with Prosecco (an Italian sparkling wine.)  We savored our first course which was little pieces of toast with soft, creamy, burrata cheese.  (Burrata cheese is a fresh mozzarella stuffed with cream.)  It was topped with avocado and red onion and drizzled with a balsamic glaze.

Our next course was an Italian egg drop soup that is very popular in the region.  It is called Stracciatella Alla Romana.  Stracciatella, translated means, “little shred” which is how the egg looks in the soup when you stir them in.  The soup is light and refreshing and very customary to serve when someone is feeling a bit under the weather.  We enjoyed it with Italian bread sticks.

For the main course, we had two dishes.  One was called Swallows Nest Pasta or Nidi di Rondine, in Italian.  They call it that because of the way the pasta is rolled up and somewhat resembles a nest.  The best part is how it tastes!  A large pasta noodle smothered with a béchamel sauce then topped with two types of cheese, a piece of prosciutto, rolled up and topped with a marinara sauce and more cheese.  The dish was baked and we loved it.  It also is just as good (or even a little better) the next day, like many pasta dishes are.

For our second entre´, I decided to serve a more adventurous dish, which was roast rabbit and fennel.  I was thrilled to have guests joining me for this meal and knew they would enjoy something out of the ordinary.  The rabbit did not disappoint.  I was able to find the rabbit in my local Asian market’s frozen section and then had to look up how to cut it up.  It was similar to cutting up a chicken by cutting in between the joints.  At any rate, one rabbit is pretty small for four people, so I was glad we were already pretty full from the other dishes.  The rabbit was enjoyed and the flavoring with the onions and fennel was lovely and made my kitchen smell incredible.

For dessert, we devoured the Torta Tre Monti.  It is considered to be the national dish of San Marino.  It is layers of waffled wafers that has Nutella or traditionally a hazelnut cream between each one and chocolate icing on the sides.  It was topped with a dark chocolate cherry gelato.  It was a lovely combination, enjoyed with a little espresso.  “Magnifico!”

As we say goodbye to this tiny Republic of San Marino, I leave you with a legend which says that the creation of Mount Titano, on which stands the city of San Marino, was due to terrible giants called Titans.  They were the nephews of the god, Saturn, uncle of Zeus, who was on Olympus.  The Titans decided to attack him while he was sleeping and to scale the sky they began to accumulate boulders placing them on top of each other, but Zeus was warned and made them fall to the earth.  Consequently, there remained only the mountain made of rocks.  For this reason, it was called “Titan”.

Until next time,

“Arrivederci,”  (Farewell in Italian)

Warmest regards,

Darlene

How did Samoa get its name?

There are many legends about how Samoa got its name.  One that comes up often is, that Moa was the family name of the Tui Manus, some of the earliest inhabitants of the islands.  SaMoa, simply refers to the family name.  At one time they controlled a Pacific empire, extending over Tonga, Fiji, the Cook Islands, and more.  The independent state of Samoa was formerly known as Western Samoa.

Where is Samoa located?

Samoa is located south of the equator, in the Polynesian region of the Pacific Ocean, about halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand.  The Polynesian group of nine islands, consists of two main islands, Upolu and Savaii, which makes up 99% of the land, and seven smaller islets.

Samoa is a land of many natural wonders including:  rain forests, waterfalls, beautiful white sand beaches and intricate caves.  The Samoan people are very proud of their incredible nature and have taken important steps to protect it.  The majority of endemic species there are birds.  The tooth billed pigeon is the national bird and has no close living relatives, but is genetically similar to the extinct dodo bird.

The warm seawater is filled with marine life including dolphins and whales, as they migrate through the region.  Turtles are often spotted there as well.  Diving and snorkeling are excellent in the crystal clear, Samoan water.

A Brief History of Samoa

The Polynesian ancestors were guided by the stars as they rowed in their sea-faring canoes across the Pacific Ocean thousands of years ago.  Samoa’s oldest known site of human inhabitation is Mulifanua, on the island of Upulo, some 3000 years ago, around 1000 BC.

Over the early years, the Samoan people engaged in battles, trade and intermarriage of nobility with the neighboring islands of Fiji and Tonga.  The interweaving of the cultures and bloodlines have strengthened the ties between these South Pacific islands.

Dutchman, Jacob Roggeveen, was the first European to site the islands in 1722.  European whalers and traders started to arrive in the late 1700s.  By far, the most important change in Samoa was due to the western missionaries.  They, along with the arrival of Reverend John Williams in 1830, converted the people from their belief in multiple gods for the sun, earth, heavens and sea, to one God.  Samoans are now a devoutly religious people with much time given to church activities.  In nearly all of the villages they have a daily prayer curfew between 6-7 pm.  It is called “Sa” and lasts for about 20-30 minutes, often marked at the beginning and end by a bell ring or the blowing of a conch shell.  For many Samoans, Christianity and fa’a Samoa (Samoan way of life) are inextricably woven.

In 1899, after years of civil war, the islands of the Samoan archipelago were divided.  The Germans took the islands to the west and the Americans took the islands to the east, now known as American Samoa.

After the beginning of World War I, New Zealand captured Western Samoa from the small German company that was stationed there.  After the war, New Zealand took administrative control on behalf of the United Nations from 1918 until they gained their independence, in 1962.  Western Samoa became the first Pacific island to gain independence.  It was in 1997 when Western Samoa dropped the Western from its name and was called simply, Samoa.  They celebrate Independence, June 1^st-3^rd, each year.

Samoan Culture

The vast majority of Samoans possess Polynesian heritage, with about 93% identifying themselves as ethnically Samoan.  Euronesians account for about 7%.  This is a mix between European and Polynesian ancestry.  Most of the population speaks Samoan, a language closely related to Maori and Tongan languages.  It is believed to be among the oldest of the Polynesian dialects.  There are two official languages in Samoa, Samoan and English.  English is used mostly for business communications.

The term fa’a Samoa means the Samoan way and refers to a complex cultural code that guides and teaches individuals how to lead their life.  It is governed by protocols and etiquette, all in accordance with core values within fa’a Samoa.  These values include family, language, the environment, genealogy, the arts (including tattooing,) as well as political and social structures.  The Christian values brought to the islands were fully integrated into fa’a Samoan life.

Fa’a Samoa has three key elements to it.  The matai (chiefs), aiga (extended family), and the church.  Matai are the heads of the extended family unit and their role is very complex; covering family, civic and political duties in the village.  There are 362 nu’u (villages) found throughout the islands, with a total of 18,000 matai.

The aiga, or extended family, is made up of parents, brother, sisters, children and grandparents, cousins, nieces and nephews living within the village.  When family members marry partners in other villages, the in-laws become part of the extended family unit.  It is the duty of a Samoan to be of service to their aiga for life.

Tatua (tattoo) is a traditional art form that represents the spiritual and cultural heritage of Samoa.  It is seen as a rite of passage for men where the intricate pattern of the pe’a covers the body from the waist to the knees.   Master tattooists use traditional handmade tools made from bone, tusk, shark teeth, shell and wood.  Women also get tattoos, called malu, but they cover only the thighs.

Siapo (tapa) is used traditionally as clothing and is an important part of traditional ceremonies.  This printed cloth is made from the inner bark of the mulberry tree and makes a wonderful souvenir.  Weaving toga (a fine mat) is another art form and one mat can take years to make as it is woven from very fine fibers of the pandanus plant.  Everyday items such as baskets and mats are woven with palm fronds.

Dance and music are also very important parts of Samoan culture.  Often these two elements are showcased in a fiafia night which includes a feast followed by a show of music and dance.  Storytelling, or siva is performed by young women, while the fast actions of the fa’ataupati or slap dance is performed by men.  This dance ends with siva afi or the fire knife dance, which is performed by young men twirling a large knife with burning flames at both ends, set to the rhythmic beat of a wooden drum.

Samoan Cuisine

Each day you will find young men paddling their canoes out in the lagoon to catch fish, while others go to the plantations to cultivate and harvest what is needed for their daily meals.  The ocean provides crayfish, snapper, mahi-mahi, octopus and tuna.  There is always a fresh catch of the day.  The plantations provide bananas, taro, tropical fruits and vegetables and of course, coconut.

Samoans traditional food is cooked in an uma (an earth oven of hot stones) which is placed on what is called fale, a stand that holds the uma.   Oil is not typically used.  Fish is wrapped in a banana leaf with freshly made coconut cream poured on top.   Pork and chicken are also popular proteins and are often cooked whole.  Taro and green bananas are tucked into the gaps.  When the food is placed on the hot coals, banana leaves are placed over the food to seal in the heat.  The food takes a while to cook; usually about 2 hours and it is not uncommon to cook meals in this way, three times per day.  A couple of delicacies include palusami (young taro leaves cooked in coconut cream)  and oka I’a (raw fish in coconut cream).

So let’s enjoy a Samoan meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Oka I’a (Raw Fish Salad)

Pani Popo (Coconut Rolls)

Main Course

Moa Fa’Asaina (Chicken Samoan Style)

Served with:

Alaisa Fa’Apopo (Coconut Rice)

Dessert

Poi  (Banana Pudding)

We set the scene with siapo, the printed tapa cloth, the traditional cloth made in Samoa.  We placed the a copy of the book called Treasure Island, written by the beloved Robert Louis Stevenson, who spent the last five years of his life with his family  there before his early death.  He was known to the Samoans as Tusitala or the “Teller of Tales.”   His homestead is now a museum and the most popular attraction in Samoa.  He is buried at the top of Mt. Vaea, which has the best views overlooking the city and bay.  We completed the scene with a photo of the rare national bird, the tooth billed pigeon, and the national flower, the red ginger, along with a coconut and some bananas.

Our first course was oka I’a, a raw fish salad that is popular on many of the Polynesian islands.  Similar to a Latin ceviche, the fish is first marinated in lemon or lime juice until the fish turns opaque.  The fish is then mixed with vegetables, like cucumber and tomato, and  doused with coconut milk.  I really love ceviche and oka I’a was no exception!

The oka I’a was served alongside the famous pani popo or coconut rolls that really were to die for.  The rolls are sweet and to be honest, I could have eaten the whole pan. They are that good.  (Consider it fair warning, if you decide to make them.)

For the main course, we prepared a Samoan style chicken that was cooked in a Dutch oven, which came as close as possible to an uma.  The chicken was cooked with a dark soy sauce, onions and vinegar, which resulted in deliciously tender bites, full of flavor.  It was served over steamed, coconut rice.  It was a perfect combination.

For dessert, we had a mashed, banana dessert called poi.  Samoan poi is not the same poi that is popular in Hawaii; theirs is made from taro stem.  This poi is more like a banana pudding and was the perfect sweet and creamy end to our Samoan meal.

Now if we were in Samoa for the meal, we likely would partake in kava or ava as they call it there.  A drink that is popular for celebrations and ceremonies and comes from the roots of a small shrub.  It’s considered non-alcoholic but psychoactive.

As we say goodbye to this little Island paradise in the South Pacific, I leave with a few words written by an English poet, Rupert Brooke, on a trip to Samoa in the 1800s.

“You lie on a mat in a cool Samoan hut and look out on the white sand under the high palms and gentle sea, and the black line of the reef a mile out and moonlight over everything.   And then among it all are the loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like gods and goddesses.  It is sheer beauty, so pure it is difficult to breathe in it.”

“Tofa”  pronounced toh-far in Samoan means “Goodbye.”

Until next time,

Darlene

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The Saints

St. Kitts and Nevis, St Lucia, and St. Vincent and the Grenadines

How did the Saints get their names?

It was Christopher Columbus who discovered the islands of St. Kitts and Nevis.  He named one after his patron Saint, St. Christopher.  Later it was shortened to his nickname, St. Kitts.  It was considered to be the mother colony of the West Indies.  People who live on St. Kitts are known as Kittitians and people that live on Nevis are called Nevisians.  The name Nevis is derived from the Spanish “Nuestra Senora de las Nieves” which means “Our Lady of the Snows.” This was in reference to its cloud cover, which resembled snow.  Originally, Nevis was called “Oualie” or “Land of Beautiful Waters” by the early inhabitants, the Caribs.  It was also for a time called “Dulcina” or “Sweet One” by early British settlers.

St. Lucia is one of the only countries in the world that was named after a woman.  It was the French who named it, after St. Lucy of Syracuse, because they were shipwrecked on the island December 13^th, 1502.  It was previously called “Iounaloa” by the native Amerindians and “Hewanorra” by the Caribs.  The names are purported to mean the “Land where Iguana is Found.”  St. Lucia is sometimes referred to as “Helen of the West Indies” because it was traded between colonies 14 times.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines were also named by Christopher Columbus.  St. Vincent was sighted by him on January 22, the feast day of the patron Saint of Lisbon and Valencia, Vincent of Saragossa.  Prior to that, then island was called “Hairouna” by the Caribs.  The Grenadines were named due to the proximity of the larger island to the country of Grenada.

Where are the Saints located?

All three countries are Caribbean islands located in the Lesser Antilles.  Saint Kitts and Nevis are made up of two main islands. They are separated by a shallow channel called “the Narrows.”  The capital of Basseterre is located on the larger island of St. Kitts.

St. Lucia is one large island about 238 square miles.  The capital is Castries.  St. Lucia is famous for its two giant volcanic spires called “the Pitons,” a world heritage site.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines are made up of 32 islands, however, only nine are inhabited.  The largest is St. Vincent, which is considered the mainland and the other eight are all part of the Grenadines.  Kingston is the capital which has a nickname of “City of Arches.”  It is known as the City of Arches due to its preservation of colonial era architecture.  It is filled with cobbled stone streets, arches and historic stone buildings and churches.

A Brief History of the Saints

St. Kitts and Nevis were first inhabited by the Ciboney who were followed by the Arawak and the Tainos, who were then overrun by the warlike Caribs.  The English were the first to settle the islands in 1623 and St. Kitts was the first English colony in the Caribbean.  Over the next several years the French and English fought over the islands.  England eventually took over full control.  These two islands are the Caribbean’s oldest colonized territories.  They were once known as the “Gibraltar of the West Indies” due to its volcanic advantage point offering sight to nearby islands.  Despite the two islands being only two miles apart they were historically thought of as two separate entities.  They were forcibly united in the late 19^th century.

Alexander Hamiliton, the first United State Secretary of the Treasury was born on Nevis.  Both islands have suffered from natural disasters; mainly devastating hurricanes and earthquakes.  The islands’ earliest cash crops were tobacco, ginger and indigo dye.  These crops were later replaced with sugarcane.  Nevis became the richest British colony in the western hemisphere by 1652.  By 1776 St. Kitts was the richest per capita.  Initially indentured servants were used to work the plantations but fewer than half survived, which is when African slaves were brought to the islands.  In 1778, the Bath Hotel was built over the site of a hot springs on the island of Nevis making it the first place in the Americas to officially practice tourism.  This became a trendy destination for the elite in Britain.

The African slave trade was terminated within the British Empire in 1807, and outlawed in 1834.  Between the two islands, 28,500 slaves were freed.  St. Kitts and Nevis became fully independent from England on September 19, 1983 and is the smallest sovereign state in the Western Hemisphere in both area and population.  The sugarcane industry was closed in 2005 after 365 years in the business.  Today tourism has been the main focus of the economy.

St. Lucia has a similar history. Arawaks were the first inhabitants followed by the Caribs.  The first attempt at colonization occurred in 1605 when an unfortunate group of English colonists, headed to Guyana and were blown off course.  Sixty-seven colonists waded ashore where they purchased huts from the resident Caribs.  After a month the party had been reduced to just nineteen who soon fled in a canoe.  A few decades later a second English party failed in a settlement attempt.

By the mid 17^th century, it was the French who arrived and purchased the island to be part of the French West India Company.  The English were not happy with this idea, which began a bitter rivalry lasting for a century and a half.  The islands first settlements were all French and a large number of sugarcane plantations had been established.  By 1814  after a prolonged series of destructive battles, the island was finally in the hands of the English.  The country remained under the British Crown until it became independent on February 22, 1979.  Its sugarcane production was replaced with bananas, which today remains an important export for St. Lucia, alongside their tourism and small manufacturing.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines share a similar history with the other Saints.  It was the same Amerindian groups that inhabited the islands originally; the Ciboney, Arawaks and the Caribs.  The Caribs aggressively prevented European settlement on St. Vincent until the 18^th Century.  It was a safe haven for African slaves, whether escapees or shipwrecked from St. Lucia and Grenada.  Many intermarried with the Caribs and became known as “Black Caribs”.  Today they are known as Garifuna.

They also shared the same struggle between the French and British colonists with the British ultimately winning the battle.  The French were the original colonists to settle the Islands and cultivated coffee, tobacco, indigo, corn and sugarcane on plantations worked by African slaves.  After emancipation by Britain, the economy went into decline.  Many land owners left their plantations, which resulted in a labor shortage.  This attracted Portuguese and East Indian immigrants to the islands.  St. Vincent and the Grenadines gained full Independence on October 27. 1979.

Today the economy remains highly dependent on agriculture.  Bananas account for sixty percent of the workforce and fifty percent of their exports.  They are the largest producers in the world of arrowroot.  Tourism is also very important to their GDP and employs most of the rest of workforce that is not involved in agriculture.

The Saints’ Culture

English is the official language of all three countries.  They also speak a creole language and French Patois as well.   All three countries have a majority of Christians as the primary religion, whether it be Anglican or Roman Catholic.  The ethnic makeup is largely African and the rest are a mixed descent.

All three Saints have important festivals that they celebrate around Carnival and music festivals are also extremely popular, year round.  The music ranges from traditional storytelling  to reggae, calypso, soca, big drum as well as other specialties like quadrille, steelpan and bele’ music.  Dance is also prominent in all three countries; each with their own style and traditional dress.

Another interesting fact all three countries share is marriage, later in life.  Typically done long after living together and having children.  Children are adored and often raised by everyone in the family.  It is not uncommon to see multi-generational households.  All three Saints have a relaxed vibe where people simply enjoy the slow pace of island time.

All of the Saints have established ports that are common cruise ship stops, especially during the winter months.  This has been a big boost for tourism and a great opportunity for locals to sell their handicrafts to the tourists that come to shore.  Painted masks, handcrafted pottery, wood carvings,  honey, cocoa sticks, conch shells, hot sauce, batik and of course rum, are a few of the favorite souvenirs.

The Saints’ Cuisine

It is no surprise that all three of these countries have similarities in their cuisine; they are islands in the Caribbean after all.  Clearly they all have influences from their history with England and France.  However, it is the sea and what is grown locally that has the most influence along with their large African populations.

Spiny lobsters, crabs, conch, shrimp and snapper are common delicacies especially when paired with West Indian curry.  Other popular dishes are roast suckling pig and salt fish.   In St. Kitts and Nevis, goat water is considered to be the national dish.   This is a goat stew with breadfruit and root vegetables and dumplings they call “droppings.”   St. Lucia’s national dish is salt fish with green figs, aka green bananas and St. Vincent’s national dish is roasted breadfruit with fried jackfish.

All three have good volcanic soil for growing things. however due to limited land, all the countries import food as well.  Being tourist locations, you can find everything from local street food to fine dining.

Rum is by the far the most popular alcohol, with each of the islands making their own brew. Beer is also common.  Fruit juices are abundant, as all three countries grow an array of fruit.

So let’s enjoy a Caribbean meal:

The Menu

Appetizer

Octopus Carpaccio with Mango Salsa

Salad Course

Green Fig & Salt Fish Salad

Main Course

Grilled Lobster with Melted Butter

Served with

Tania Fritters (Malanga Fritters)

Dessert

Caribbean Black Cake

We set the scene with palm fronds and shells, bananas and sugarcane, along with a rose (the national flower of St. Lucia) and a parrot (the national bird of St. Lucia & St. Vincent.) We added a brown pelican (the national bird of St. Kitts.)  We put on calypso music to get us in the Caribbean spirit and began with a rum punch to kick off the meal.  Rum punch is made with grenadine syrup, pineapple juice, orange juice, lime juice and of course a combination of rums.

Our first course was an octopus carpaccio.  Octopus is found in the warm ocean waters of the Caribbean Sea and this is a lovely way to enjoy it.  Cooked and sliced pieces of octopus were arranged in circles and topped with a light and refreshing mango salsa with a little kick from a scotch bonnet pepper. The combination of flavors was perfect.

Our next course was a green fig salad.  Green bananas are called green figs on all these Caribbean islands and this salad also had salted cod, a staple in these parts, simply known as salt fish.  The salad had lots of root vegetables and reminded me of a potato salad but with a twist by adding the salt fish.  It is hearty and could easily be made as a lovely light lunch on its own.

For the main course we served sweet, succulent, grilled, spiny lobster tails.  They were accompanied with melted butter and old bay seasoning.  Honestly, if you ever have the opportunity to try the spiny lobster, I highly recommend it.  It is so much sweeter than an ordinary lobster.

They spiny lobsters were served with  chip like tania fritters.  Tania in the Caribbean is malanga and goes by many different names.  It is somewhat like arrowroot, dasheen or eddoes.  The Latin name is xanthosoma.  It has a natural stickiness to it when grated, so you really can just grate them and cook them in oil for a wonderful treat, without adding a binder.  We used chives and salt and pepper for added flavor.  Trust me, you will eat more than one or two.  They are scrumptious, with a bit of a nutty flavor.

For dessert, we indulged in the very moist, dense, boozy Caribbean, black cake.  This cake is loaded with dried fruits that have been soaked in rum for quite some time.  It is often served at Christmas time or on special occasions.  We enjoyed it with a cup of coffee to end our three Saints’ meal.

As we say goodbye to these three Caribbean countries, I leave dreaming of these nations; each with their pristine black and white sand beaches, old colonial architecture and lush green mountains, filled with exotic birds and waterfalls.  But ultimately, it is the people and their warm hearts and hospitality, and the slow island vibe that are most irresistible.

Until next time,

Darlene