Pakistan is officially called the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.  Pakistan means “Land of the Pure,” in both Urdu and Pashto.  It is believed it was named by Chaudry Rahmat Ali, by using the first letters of the five provinces that make up Pakistan: P for Punjab, A for Afghania, K for Kashmir, S for Sindh and TAN for the Balochistan province.  Chaudry was the author of a famous 1933 pamphlet titled, “Now or Never; Are We to Live or Perish Forever”, which is where the acronym first appeared.

Pakistan, located in south Asia, is bordered by India to the east, Afghanistan to the west, Iran to the southwest, China to the northeast and the Arabian Sea to the south.  Pakistan is blessed with an array of different landscapes; deserts, plains, forests, hills and coastal areas.  Pakistan has the only fertile desert and the largest glacier outside of the polar regions. The northern area has five of the seventeen highest peaks and in the world.  K2 is the second tallest mountain, after Mt. Everest and rises to an imposing 28,251 feet above sea level.  Its name comes from the mountain range, Karakoram.  Its nickname is “Savage Mountain,” due to the extreme difficulty of ascent.  Pakistan has many beautiful natural sights and historic landmarks.  Lonely Planet says “Pakistan may become the next big thing in travel”.

The area of Pakistan was home to the Indus Valley civilization, one of the oldest in the world.  The city of Harappa flourished along the Riva River between 3000-1500 BC.  It has a rich history of invaders including the Aryans, the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Greeks, the Parthians and the Turks.  Babar, a Muslim ruler from Afghanistan, established the Mogul Empire.  In the 1700s, the British took over control of the East India Company.  In the 1940s, the Muslim League demanded partition from the British, of a separate nation for India’s Muslims.

Pakistan gained independence from the British on August 14, 1947.  Pakistan is the only country to have been created in the name of Islam.  It was the result of the Pakistan movement, led by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, who is considered the founding father of Pakistan.  He died of tuberculosis very shortly after Independence, when he was named Governor-General.  Had the man who was asked to make the partition (Cyril Radcliffe) known how sick Jinnah was, it is very likely the lines would not have been drawn at all.  Those lines resulted in 12 million people becoming refugees and between a half a million and a million people being killed in religious violence.  Unfortunately, the lines drawn to establish Pakistan, remain some of the most hotly contested land borders in the world.  India and Pakistan, to this day, are bitter enemies over them.

In 1948, war broke out with India over the disputed territory of Kashmir, which still remains in turmoil.  Bangladesh, formerly known as East Pakistan, declared Independence on March 25, 1971.  This precipitated a horrible. nine month liberation war between the two countries, which killed millions more innocent people. There has been way too much bloodshed over these borders.

There is also a dangerous border area with Afghanistan where it is believed terrorists are harbored and operate on both sides of the border.  The Taliban (one of the terrorist groups) is present in both Pakistan and Afghanistan.  Pakistan is accused of not doing enough to act against extremist groups; an issue which just caused the USA to put Pakistan back on the “gray list,” a global-terrorism, financing watchlist.  They have a year to prove they are doing the right things to prosecute extremist leaders, and shut down their financing streams.  Pakistan is also the place where Osama bin Laden, the mastermind of the 911 terror attacks in the USA, was hiding out. That is until he was killed in an undercover mission by the US special forces.

Today, Pakistan is a nuclear power, ranked ninth in the world as a super power, because of this arsenal.  They have the sixth largest army in the world and have some of the top, air force pilots. They also are known for manufacturing fighter jets, which they now are exporting and they have some of the best missile technology in the world.  Pakistan is also the world’s fifth most populous country and has a growing economy.  The official languages are Urdu and English, although, some 60 languages are spoken there.  The literacy rate has been poor in Pakistan, however they have been making great strides in recent years with a 250 percent increase in their literacy rate through education.  Education is important in Pakistan and they are listed as having the seventh largest pool of engineers and scientists.  The Lahore University of Management Sciences attracts thousands of international students. It is considered to be the best university in the country.

As we look into the cuisine of Pakistan, we see it is heavily influenced by its past, when it was part of India.  It has influences from Central Asia, as well as their rich Mughal legacy.  As with most countries, the cuisine of Pakistan is regional and largely based on the ethnicity and diversity of its people.  Generally speaking, the eastern region is known for its highly seasoned and spicy cuisine, reminiscent of the Indian subcontinent.  Cuisine from the western and northern provinces are characterized by milder dishes, with more influence coming from Central Asia.  It has Middle Eastern flavors, as well.  Pork and alcohol are forbidden, as 97% of the population is Muslim.  Mutton, beef and chicken, as well as seafood from along the coast, are the proteins of choice for the wealthy.  Lentils (or dahls) supply protein for the rest of the population. Nearly 2/3rds of the population lives on $2 a day.

The main spices used in Pakistani cuisine are: chili powder, curry, ginger, garlic, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, saffron and turmeric.  Sabzi (fresh herbs and vegetables) or kachumber salad are typically served with the main meal.  Flat breads like naan and roti, are also served with the meals and rice is ubiquitous as well.  Pakistan is the one of the largest producers and exporters of both rice and wheat in the world.  They also have one of the largest irrigation systems in the world. The spicy, main dishes are often accompanied by dishes that soothe the spicy flavors.  These come in the form of chutneys, made with coriander and mint, raita (a yogurt dish) and lassi, (a delicious drink made with yogurt) which is often flavored with mangoes, for which Pakistan is also famous, and is the national fruit.   A sugarcane drink called roh is the national drink.

So let’s enjoy a Pakistani meal:

The Menu

Starter

Shami Kababs (Chicken Kebabs)

Main Course

Chicken Karahi (Chicken Curry)

Served with

Kachumber Salad (Cucumber, Tomato and Onion Salad)

Dessert

Shahi Turka (Bread Pudding)

We sat down on the floor on our dastarkhan (a floor covering) and surrounded it with cushions.  We began with handwashing, as we would eat the meal with only our right hand, which is customary there.  We decorated with the colors of Pakistan; green and white.  We also breathed in the fragrance of jasmine, which is the national flower of Pakistan.  A soccer ball was also part of the décor, not because it is the national sport (which is cricket), but because Pakistan makes them for the rest of the world.

Our first course was shami kababs, a delicious patty style, kebab made of chicken and yellow split peas.  They were soft and flavorful and perfect when dipped into the green coriander chutney, served as an accompaniment.

The main course, chicken karahi  (chicken curry), was served with raita, a creamy yogurt mixture.  It is a cooing agent for the spicy curry.  A kachumber salad made with cucumbers, tomato, onion and fresh herbs was also part of the main meal.  It was dressed simply, with lemon juice, making it extremely healthful.  It was sprinkled with a spice mixture called chaat masala, that was tangy and spicy, at the same time.  Aside from being used on this salad, chaat masala is also loved on hard-boiled eggs and fruit.  We had fresh, naan bread, which makes just the right scoop to enjoy the salad and the spicy goodness of the chicken karahi.  You can get the naan recipe here.

For dessert we had a dish made for royalty, called shahi tukra.  It was a scrumptious, bread pudding, made from crispy pieces of bread that were fried in ghee (clarified butter) and then smothered in a rabadi or milk sauce, flavored with saffron and cardamom.  The whole dish was garnished with three different types of nuts.

After our meal, we sat back on our soft cushions and contemplated how different things would have been had the British chosen not to make a partition, leaving India whole, as it was in the past.

We then watched the documentary, He Named Me Malala.  This film is about the young Pakistani girl, Malala Yousafzai, who was shot in the head and nearly killed by the Taliban for going to school.  She is the youngest ever Nobel Peace Prize Laureate and a superstar advocate for girls education and children’s rights.  I leave you with a few of her famous quotes.

“We realize the importance of our voices only when we are silenced.”

“When the whole world is silent, even one voice becomes powerful.”

“One child, one teacher, one book, one pen, can change the world.”

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

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Phnom Penh is one of Cambodia’s oft missed treasures.

Regrettably, the capital city of Phnom Penh, tends to be overlooked when planning a trip to Cambodia.  The magnificent temples of Angor Wat, in Siam Reap, rank number one for tourism in Cambodia.  However, Phnom Penh holds some of Cambodia’s most significant history and is also an exciting, culinary hotspot.

It was the first stop on our four month tour of Southeast Asia and we couldn’t get enough of Phnom Penh.  Right away after landing and heading out to our hotel, we were on sensory overload.  Scooters and tuk-tuks (motorized rickshaws) weaved in and out amongst the cars and trucks. The lively hustle and bustle, the aromas, sounds and colors seemed to endlessly line the streets of the city.

We arrived at our beautiful hotel, “The Plantation Urban Resort”, which is a relaxing oasis from the chaotic city life.

We were greeted by their friendly staff, upon check in, offering us two delicious and extraordinary scoops of Kampot pepper ice cream and a cool drink.  The Kampot pepper has been voted as the best pepper in the world and I personally think Cambodia is a worthy destination just for their famous pepper.

These are a few things you must do while in Phnom Penh:

1) Walk the streets of Phnom Penh and simply observe life in the city.

We took a walk from the hotel to a monastery and the Royal Palace.  On the way we saw monks out and about receiving their daily alms.  It is a lovely exchange to witness; a person gives the monk either money or food and then they pray together. The monks chant.  It is a wonderful ritual and I love that the monks are treated with so much reverence and dignity.

2) Go on a Vespa Adventure Tour.

You can find them on Trip Advisor and this was one of the most exciting things we did on our travels.  We selected the foodie tour at night.  They picked us up at the hotel and provided us with helmets and a driver.  We simply sat on the back and enjoyed the ride.  Our first stop was the FCC aka (Federal Correspondence Club), a beautiful French colonial hotel that had a lovely view of the river where we all gathered and had local beer and peanuts.  We then headed out to see the sights of the city.  We saw the beautiful Wat Phnom Temple, lit up in all its glory.  It is the tallest, religious structure in the city.

We enjoyed a local market where we got an education on the local foods available to us.  We had grilled oysters and morning glory in oyster sauce; a staple in Cambodian cuisine, it was a totally authentic experience.  We also made a stop and took pictures at the Independence Tower. We then went to the Elephant Bar, at the famous Raffles, where we enjoyed a drink called Femme Fatale, which was made especially for First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy when she visited Cambodia back in 1967.  It was a lifelong dream of hers to visit Angor Wat. The drink was made to be “as red as her lips”, and was a combination of Champagne, Cognac and Crème de Fraise Sauvage.  They even have the glass with her lipstick marks on the rim, proudly on display.

We also went to a karaoke bar and restaurant where we had an assortment of classical Cambodian cuisine.  One of my favorite things was a dipping sauce for meats.  It was made from salt, sugar, that amazing Kampot pepper  and a squeeze of lime. Kampot pepper is expensive to buy but a luxury everyone should enjoy on occasion.

We ended our journey back at our hotel.  It was a fabulous and educational way to get to see the city; a real highlight.

 3) Take a trip to Silk Island

We went on a massive boat (that we had all to ourselves) to venture out to the island about an hour away.  On the way, we saw a floating village that is made up of Muslim fisherman.  The colorful boats were loaded up with all their worldly belongings.  We saw families of six that were living together on one of these little boats.  (Thankfully, the government now requires the children to start attending school.)

We arrived at Silk Island and were greeted by our horse drawn carriage.

Well, not exactly a carriage, but we toured the island and got a full lesson on how silk is made.  It is a dying art that is well worth the education.

We also toured a historic royal house and met the lovely woman who resides there.

It was so much fun to trot down the dusty roads and simply view island life; kids on bicycles always offer a heartfelt wave and say hello as you pass.

We then ventured back to the boat where we headed back to the mainland, Phnom Penh.

4)Take a food tour and try a deep fried tarantula or scorpion.

I’m serious, they are surprisingly delectable treats.  Make sure you go on a well rated tour that gets five stars on Trip Advisor.

We went on one with a woman named Ducky from Australia, who is a very passionate gal who simply fell in love Phnom Penh and especially the Cambodian people and decided to stay.  She had us taste an array of unusual fruits, like longan, snake fruit, and the queen of fruits, mangosteen, which was my favorite.  We took a walk through a local market and had the best pork belly and crispy skin I have ever had.

5)Visit the Cambodian Killing Fields (sites of mass graves of those killed by the Khmer Rouge regime) and S21.

S21, today known as The Tuol Slenge Museum of Genocide, was a high school that sat on the dusty outskirts of Phnom Penh.  In 1976, the Khmer Rouge turned it into a torture, interrogation and execution center.

The horrific leader of the brutal Khmer Rouge, named Pol Pot, committed atrocities of epic proportions.  It was his belief that if he rid the country of the educated, he would then have total control.  Some 17,000 people were have known to have entered and only seven survived. The Khmer Rouge not only transcribed the interrogations but photographed the inmates telling their story of shock, defiance and horror.  In 2003, The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine, documentary retold this horror in film.  This place is heart wrenching to witness, but in order to understand the Cambodian people it is an imperative visit.  One in four Cambodians was affected by the Khmer Rouge and even today it is not really openly talked about or taught in schools.

We went to both places the same day and it was a lot to take in; very emotional and difficult.  It is however, important, and brings a whole new understanding and respect of the Cambodian people.  Despite the atrocities they endured, or perhaps because of them, they are a hopeful and resilient people, full of life and happy.  It is palpable, you can feel it everywhere.

6) Make sure to also go to the top of the Phnom Penh Tower

On the 23rd floor there is a local hangout called the Eclipse Sky Bar.  It is one of the tallest rooftop bars in the city. The view of the city at sunset is awesome and the perfect place to have a drink, unwind and reflect, after a long day of sightseeing.

So now you have a few good reasons why you should visit Phnom Penh.  I am certain there are many more, so please share what you discover.

I leave you with a Khmer proverb

“Khoeng Koch, Khoeng Khat” translated means “Anger is damage; anger is waste”

Until next time,

Darlene

Please note that this post may contain affiliate links in which I may earn a small commission if you book through them.  Rest assured it does not affect the price you pay. Thank you for your support.

If you enjoyed this post you may also like Our journey to Cambodia and A Cooking Class in Kampot Cambodia

India gets her name from the Indus River, a major river that flows through China, Pakistan and India. The river’s name comes from Sanskrit (Sindhu) meaning “body of trembling water, river”. India is the largest part of the land mass that is South Asia. She is the seventh largest country in the world by size and second largest in population. India shares land borders with six countries, Pakistan to the northwest, China, Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan to the north and Bangladesh and Myanmar to the southwest. She is surrounded on the southeast and southwest by the Indian Ocean. Sri Lanka and the Maldives lie just off the coast, to the south.

India is an ancient land with a history dating back thousands of years. In 2700 BCE, the first urban civilization in the world emerged in the Indus River valley. There were numerous states and kingdoms throughout the region over its long history, which is also the birthplace of the some of the world’s largest religions: Hinduism, Sikhism, Buddhism and Jainism. Today an overwhelming majority of the population is Hindu, which is the religion associated with the caste system in India (a rigid, social and occupational stratification system). Twelve percent of Indians are Muslim. This fact makes India one of the largest Islamic nations in the world because of the size of the population; over 1 billion people call India home. They also have the largest number of mosques in the world, with over 300,000. Every major religion in the world is represented in India.

Today, India is home to 29 states and seven union territories, each with their own extraordinary history, culture, language and uniqueness. There are 16 official languages of India, which include: Hindi, Urdu, Bengali and English (making India the largest English speaking country in the world). However, there are numerous other languages and dialects spoken there, totaling over 1500. The capital city of India is New Delhi but the most populated city is Mumbai, also known as “The City of Dreams” and formerly known as Bombay. The term “Bollywood,” gets its “B” from the previous name of the city coupled with the fact that they are the largest producer of films in the world. Mumbai is home to the wealthiest people in India, with many millionaires and even billionaires. However, many Indians live on as little as $2 a day and 35 percent of the population lives below the poverty line.

India gained her independence on August 15, 1947, after 200 years of British rule. India is the largest democracy in the world. The Indian, Independence Bill, which made independent nations of India and Pakistan, was hailed by Indian Independence leader, Mohandas Gandhi as the “noblest act of the British nation.” Unfortunately, after the bill took effect it began a period of religious turmoil between the Hindus and Muslims. That resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands, including Gandhi, who was assassinated by a Hindu fanatic in January of 1948 during a prayer vigil. More commonly known at Mahatma Gandhi, he is hailed as the Father of India. (Mahatma is an honorary title in the ancient Sanskrit language meaning “Great Soul”.) His birthday is celebrated every October 2nd and the day is also commemorated by the United Nations as the “International Day of Non-Violence”. Gandhi used non-violent civil disobedience as a method of evoking the people of India to rally for independence. His mission was to peacefully free India from British rule, to relieve poverty and to provide equality for women. His influence on humanity cannot be underestimated as he inspired similar movements around the world. His life and principles have inspired countless people all over the world with his message of peace, simplicity and devotion. He will forever be remembered for his many inspirational quotes and life lessons.

The world has a lot to thank India for as they are the inventors of many things that affect the lives of people every day. India gave the world yoga, developed over 5000 years ago. They invented the game of chess, the shirt button, the ruler, the decimal system was invented in 100 BC and the number zero. They also get the credit for the value of pi, trigonometry, algebra and calculus, to name a few.

The sheer size and scope of India is simply astounding. They have six seasons, which include the normal four, plus winter and summer monsoons. They have incredibly diverse topography which includes some of the tallest mountains in the world, the Himalayans, to arid desserts, forests, fertile plains and tropical seaside villages. Interestingly the whole of India is in the same time zone. They grow over 1.2 million tons of mangos annually as well as many legumes, like chickpeas and kidney beans and lentils of all types, which are often dried. They are also the largest producer of milk in the world. Cows are sacred in India and you will often times see them wandering the streets. Because India is such spiritual country, there is no shortage of festivals. There are festivals that celebrate good over evil, one where camels are dressed up and paraded, celebration for the harvest, kings’ birthdays, elephants ornately decorated and ridden thru the streets, etc. They are some of the most colorful festivals in the world. Weddings are multi day celebrations as well, with food, dancing and extravagant outfits. Even in modern India, most marriages are still arranged.

As we look into the cuisine of India, it is as diverse as the country itself. They have over 37 different cuisines along with hundreds of variations of those. The differences are often times simply, what is available locally due to the soil, climate and ethnic group. It is clear that religion and culture have a major impact on the choices. Hindu’s don’t eat beef and Muslim’s don’t eat pork. India has the largest number of vegetarians in the world. India is one of the few places in the world where you will find vegetarian meals at Kentucky Fried Chicken, McDonalds and Pizza Hut. Indian cuisine is loved throughout the world and mostly known for its amazing use of spices called masala, which are used to make hundreds of curries. Some of the hallmark spices in Indian cuisine are chili pepper, black mustard seed, cardamom, cumin, turmeric, asafetida, ginger, coriander and garlic. The famous garam masala is a combination of at least five spices, ground together, which usually includes, cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Each region has a special garam masala blend to call their own. Indian food always uses spice but you can enjoy Indian food with or without the intensity of heat from peppers. Some Indian food is off the charts on the hot side but can be adjusted to suit your tastes. Rice, millet, bean pulses, potatoes and dahls, are all staple ingredients in Indian cuisine, along with delicious flat breads like naan, chapatti and roti.

To be honest, I had no idea how to tackle India from a cuisine standpoint. I decided to go with a vegetarian meal as an introduction to Indian cuisine. We enjoyed the meal with masala chai which means “spiced tea.” Chai is the national drink of India, and yes they are the largest producers of tea in the world as well.

So let’s eat Indian food:

The Menu
Starter
Bhindi Masala Dry Fry (Spicy Okra Dried Fry)

Main
Palak Paneer (Spinach Curry)

With Paneer (Cheese)

Served with
Aloo Gobi (Potatoes and Cauliflower Dry)

All served with
White Basmati Rice and Garlic Naan Bread
Dessert
Mango Lassi (Mango Smoothie)

We placed a mat on the floor, along with some cushions, as it is customary to sit on the floor to dine in India. We removed our shoes, washed our hands, feet and face and sat down cross legged. The decorations included lotus flower candle holders, as the lotus flower is a sacred symbol in India especially to Hindus and Buddhists and is their national flower. In fact, in New Delhi, there is the lotus temple, which is one of the most visited in the world. It is shaped like a lotus flower with 27 gigantic petals that are covered in marble. We also placed a peacock feather to symbolize their national bird, and a Bengal tiger, their national animal, which used to roam all over the country but today, its numbers are threatened. We, of course, used only our right hand to enjoy the meal, which is their custom. It is important to know you should never share food, as it is considered contaminated if you have touched your mouth and then your food. Only the finger tips are used and never lick your fingers. You will wash your hands at the end of the meal as well.

Our first course was the dried, okra fry and it was absolutely amazing. The complex spices in the dish and the fact that it was not at all gelatinous, was a real treat. These little morsels were very easy to eat with only the right hand and we didn’t have a one left over; a delicious way to begin our vegetarian meal.

Next, we enjoyed the very popular, palak paneer. This spicy, spinach curry was off the charts, outstanding. The grilled paneer cheese is very similar to a tofu that seems to just soak up the flavors of whatever it is cooked in. The grilled cheese melts in your mouth as the spicy, spinach curry enlivens your palate. This was enjoyed with basmati rice and naan bread.

As a side dish, we served aloo gobi, which was also cooked in the dry style, with amazing spices. The potatoes and cauliflower were a wonderful combination; tender and delicious.

For dessert, in honor of their national fruit, the mango, we savored a mango lassi. Basically, it is a creamy, mango smoothie but it also served to soothe the palate after the heat from our amazing, vegetarian meal.

We thought about how, if you wanted to be a vegetarian, Indian cuisine would be a wonderful way to indulge. We loved every single dish and were totally full and satisfied. We then decided to have a little chess match over a movie called “Slumdog Millionaire”. This movie gives an interesting perspective of India and has won numerous film awards.

India is a complex country, many have said that it can’t really be explained, it must be experienced. As my nephew Eliot described last week, India is indeed a land of many contrasts and full of intense sensory stimuli. I hope to someday breathe her in myself, but in the meantime, exploring the many diverse cuisines, is a good place to start.

As we say goodbye, I leave you with a few inspiring quotes from Gandhi:
“Be the change that you want to see in the world.”
“You must not lose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean; if a few drops of the ocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”
“Where there is love there is life.”
“An eye for an eye only ends up making the whole world blind.”

Until next time,
Namaste’
Darlene

How this mysterious country got its name is not completely known.  The most common theory comes from the Nepali scholar, Rishikesh Shah, who says that the ancient chronicles report it was named after a sage, Ne.  He was believed to come to the area for meditation and later became the protector or “Pala” of the land.

Nepal is nestled between two massive countries; China to the north and India to the south.  It has two other close neighbors, Bhutan and Bangladesh, but their borders do not touch.  This landlocked country does not celebrate an Independence Day, as it was never technically colonized by another nation.  In 1923, Britain recognized the absolute independence of Nepal.  Between 1846 and 1951 the country was ruled by the Rana family.  In 1951, the king took over all the power and proclaimed Nepal his constitutional monarchy.  The monarchy was abolished in 2008.  The earliest recorded history dates back some 2800 years, when the Kirantis (a Mongolian tribe) arrived in the Himalayan territory.  However, it is the Newars who are considered to be the most indigenous people.  They come from what is now known as the Kathmandu Valley, which holds many legends of Nepal. One of which is the legend of Yeti or the abominable snowman.  Yeti is described as an ape-like creature bigger than a human that lives in the Himalayas.  There have been reported sightings but never a capture, so the folklore remains.  Kumari’s  are real, female child goddess and a big part of the Newar culture.  These girls have to meet very strict criteria and are chosen between the ages of 2 to 4.  It is a great honor to be chosen and it is believed that just laying eyes on a Kumari will bring good luck.  Since the migration of the Newars, all sorts of tribes made their way to the region.  Many different dynasties ruled the land over time.  Today, Nepal is a multiethnic, multiracial, multicultural, country. It is also multi religious, with the majority being Hindus followed by Buddhists.  In fact, Buddha’s birthplace is Lumbina, Nepal, dating back to circa 563 B.C.  Nepal is also a multilingual country.  The national language is Nepali, however over 120 languages are spoken.

Nepal is one of the least developed nations on earth.  Many countries have provided economic assistance to this isolated nation.  It is poor, with nearly half the population surviving on just one dollar a day.  Nearly 75 percent of the land is mountainous.  Nepal is home to eight of the ten largest mountains in the world.  This includes the majestic towering peak of Mount Everest, the tallest in the entire world, at 8,850 meters.  The local Sherpas (an ethnic group in eastern Nepal) call it “Chomolungma” which translates to “Goddess Mother of the World.” The word in Nepali is “Sagarmatha” which means “Forehead of the Sky.”   Many have lost their lives trying to scale the tallest mountain in the world.  Apa Sherpa holds the record for scaling it, and did so, an amazing, 21 times.

Nepal is home to the largest concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites.  Eight are cultural sites and located mostly in the Kathmandu Valley.  A few of the sites are considered to be the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Buddhists and Hindus alike.  Two are natural sites and National Parks which house a huge array of plant species, bird life and exotic animals.  The Chitwan Park is known for its jungle safari, where you can encounter crocodiles on the lake and take cultural tours on the lifestyle of the Chitwan people.  In the Sagarmatha Park, is where you can encounter rare species of exotic animals like: snow leopards, pandas and lynx, to name a few.

Nepal does not have many natural resources.  Agriculture employs two thirds of the nation but only accounts for one third of the GDP.  They are the number one producer in the world of mustard seed and third in the world for ginger.  Tourism plays an important role in the economy, although political instability has taken its toll on this sector.  The many rivers and plentiful snowfall in the region have massive potential for providing hydro-electric power, which Nepal dearly needs.  In most parts of Nepal, electricity, is only available for half the day.

As we look into the cuisine of this intriguing nation, it is quite regional according to the topography and what is available, based on the soil and climate.  Often culinary choices are determined by culture, ethnicity, and religion.  Yet, some dishes are found everywhere.  The national dish of Nepal is called, dal bhat.  Dal is a lentil soup. This is served over a grain called bhat, which, based on the region, could be rice, roti, a flat bread, or a porridge, made from other types of grain such as buckwheat, barley or millet.

Generally speaking, Napali’s food has Asian, Tibetan, Indian and Thai influences.  For example, Tibetan style dumplings with Nepali spices called Momos, are one of the most loved snacks. These delicious treats can be made with buffalo, goat or chicken and there is a vegetarian variety as well.  Cow, is the national animal of Nepal and considered sacred.  It is not consumed for its meat, only for dairy.  Fish is also available in the lakes and rivers.  Curries, or tarkari are very popular, as are pickled vegetables, called achars.  Vegetables often accompany the dal bhat in the form of a curry.  Sag, which are sautéed greens, like mustard greens, flavored with Nepali spices are also widely consumed.  The most common herbs and spices in Nepali cuisine are: garlic, ginger, coriander, turmeric, cumin, Szechwan pepper, fenugreek seeds, sesame seed, mustard seed and chili powder or fresh chili.  Nepalese food is spicy, in both flavor and heat.  Mustard oil imparts an interesting dimension to their food.  Only about half the population consumes alcohol.  It is typically spirits, made from millet or rice.  Tea is the most common beverage followed by buttermilk.

Common vegetables found in Nepal are: potatoes, green beans, cucumber, tomato, cauliflower, cabbage and pumpkin.  Fruits include: mandarin oranges, limes, lemons, Asian pears, pomelos and mangoes.  Chow Mein is another Nepali favorite and packaged, instant noodles have become extremely popular.  The Nepali people also love sweets.  For dessert they have a unique treat that is circular, called sel roti (yes, fried dough.)  That is a crowd favorite during festivals and holidays.

So let’s enjoy a Nepali meal:

The Menu

Starter

Chatamari (Nepali Pizza)

Main Course Thali

Dal Bhat (Red Lentils and Rice)

Served with

Chicken Tarkari (Curry Chicken)

Cauli Aloo (Cauliflower and Potato Curry)

Kaakroo Ko Achar (Cucumber Pickle Salad)

Bhogate Sadeko (Grapefruit and Orange Salad)

Dessert

Peda (Milk Candy)

We set the scene by stringing prayer flags from the ceiling, in the form of a mountain peak representing Mt. Everest.  Our place settings were crimson, Nepal’s color of the world’s only non-quadrilateral national flag and we decorated with Buddha and Hindu figurines.  We burned incense and scattered petals of various flowers to represent the rhodendron, the national flower of Nepal.

We began with a street food called chatamari, often referred to as Nepali pizza.  This was a real hit.  I made two versions: one with buffalo meat and one vegetarian.  The crust of the pizza is made with rice flour and then topped with spices and meat or vegetables.  It is then topped with an egg, cooked all at the same time, for about eight minutes.  It was unlike any pizza we had ever tasted.  The exotic spices and crunchy, rice crust, made it unforgettable.

For the main meal, we served it thali style.  Thali is a very popular way of eating, which consists of a large, round platter with rice stacked in the middle and surrounded by a variety of  dishes.  It is  eaten with only the right hand.  We put our palms together and we said “namaste.”  This is a common greeting in all of Nepal which literally means, “Bowing to you.”  In Hinduism, it has a spiritual importance which reflects a belief that the divine and soul are the same in you and in me.  So, “namaste’s” deeper meaning is, “I bow to the divine in you.”

Our thali had steamed, white rice in the middle and was surrounded by a lentil soup;  the national dish, dal bhat.  One can easily see how satisfying these dishes would be when mountaineering in the Himalayas.  I understand this is the main meal served on the trek to the Everest base camp.  It is so important in fact, that often climbers rate each day’s trek by the number of servings to complete the task. “ Is it a two dal bhat climb or four, for a really hard climb?  It is a perfectly balanced meal used to fuel the climbers in the Himalayas as well as everyday folk in Nepal. Our dal was made with red lentils and all the rich Nepali spices.  We loved it!

Our thali was also served with a chicken tarkari.  This tarkari  or curry, had similar spices in it as the red lentils.  However, the chicken  is first stir fried and then braised in a stock.  This resulted in a super tender and flavorful chicken curry. awesome with the steamed rice.

Next on the thali was an achar; a cucumber pickle salad.  This achar is meant to cool the palate from the heat of the Nepali dishes, although it has a bit of spice as well.  The coolness comes from the cucumber itself, along with splash of lemon and dollup of yogurt.; another wonderful Nepali dish.

Cauliflower and potato aloo followed.  The cauliflower is cooked dry, along with potatoes, allowing the water in the vegetables to be released.  It is flavored with cumin, ginger, fenugreek and chili.  The trick is to get the cauliflower and potatoes cooked through without them becoming mushy (which is why it is cooked without water).  The result was tender morsels packed with tons of flavor and heat.

I think this last dish on the thali was my favorite.  It was a grapefruit and orange salad.  It too had the Nepali flavors that we have come to enjoy but it had a sweetness to it as well.  It was the perfect accompaniment to the other dishes on the thali.  It had yogurt in it, with toasted sesame seeds.  Mustard oil flavored the fenugreek seeds and also the turmeric.  It does indeed impart a wonderful flavor.

For dessert we had peda.  This is basically a milk candy made from sweetened condensed milk (or by making your own sweetened condensed milk) and cooking it until it turns into a candy.  It is then rolled into bite size pieces and garnished with a pistachio nut.  These treats are loved as a dessert with tea but also are considered a gift for the many Hindu gods.  We loved them too!

Nepal suffered a horrific earthquake back in 2015.  They are working on rebuilding their infrastructure (which was not very well developed before the quake.)  The 7.8 magnitude quake killed nearly 9000 people and injured another 22,000.  It demolished more than half a million homes. They continue to receive aid from many nations to help rebuild after their catastrophic losses.  They also are holding a series of elections for the first time in 20 years.  They are being held in three phases, the last one scheduled for September 18^th of this year.  Millions are participating.  We hope that whoever is elected, they will continue to rebuild this most extraordinary nation and live in peace.

I  leave you with a few Nepali Proverbs:

“Half a loaf is better than no bread”

“Fruits of labor are always sweet.”

and

“If you do right things, you don’t have to worry.”

Until next time,

Namaste

Darlene Longacre

Laos can trace its name back to the Kingdom of Lan Xang, which means, “Kingdom of a Million Elephants.”  This successful kingdom was one of the largest in Southeast Asia from the 14^th century until 1893, when it became a French Protectorate.  The official name of the country is Lao People’s Democratic Republic or commonly referred to by its people as, Muang Lao.   The rest of the world continues to call the country Laos, which is technically not correct, yet remains to be the norm. The reason why Laos is incorrect is because there is no “s” in their  alphabet.   Laos’ enchanted history can be traced much farther back than the 14^th century.  An ancient human skull was recovered in northern Laos, dating back 46,000 years.

Laos is a landlocked country, located in the center of the Indochinese peninsula of mainland Southeast Asia.  Her neighbors are:  Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) and China to the northwest, Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south and Thailand to the west.  The country is covered by dense forests and rugged mountains, with some plains and plateaus as well.  The climate is tropical and influenced by the monsoon pattern.  The rainy season is May to November, followed by a dry season, December to April.  Its rivers, most notably the Mekong River, which means “Mother of Water”, is the lifeblood of the country.  Most of the villages in Laos are scattered along its banks or tributaries.  The river marks the border with Thailand, where recent bridges have been built to allow access to each other’s border crossing.  They are called the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridges.

Laos gained independence from France on July 19, 1949, after a brief occupation by Japan during World War II.  It is one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia and is one of the few remaining communist run regimes.  Nearly 85 percent of the population works in agriculture, mostly subsistence rice farming that produces 51 percent of the country’s GDP.  New private enterprises are enjoying some success as the country tries to establish a more market based economy.  These enterprises include handicrafts, beer, coffee and especially tourism.  Tourism is the fastest growing sector of the economy.  However, new dam proposals along the Mekong River, which are quite controversial, are expected to make hydro-electric power its number one export.

Laos’ biggest challenge is a terrible crisis the country has faced since the Vietnam War.  There were more than 580,000 bombing missions in Laos, (mostly by the United States of America) from 1964-1973.  This is sometimes referred to as the “Secret War”, as many Americans were unaware of what was happening during that time in Laos.  The aerial bombardment in Laos was an attempt to destroy North Vietnamese sanctuaries and stop the supply line, known as the Ho Chi Minh trail.  CIA agents were placed in Laos to call in coordinates where they saw activity, during the war.  This resulted in a bomb drop every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years.

Aside from the devastation of war, the additional problem stemmed from the 270 million cluster munitions dropped, where up to 80 million failed to detonate.  They remain live, in the ground, since the war.  More than one-third of Laos’ territory suffers from UXO (unexploded ordinance) contamination.  More than 20,000 people have been killed or maimed as a result of UXO accidents since the war ended.  Forty percent of those casualties have been children.  It is estimated that it will take two millennia to clear Laos of UXOs at its current pace.  Although the United States has recently increased its funding for this effort, it is simply a drop in the bucket for what is needed to see progress.  The removal of UXOs is a painstakingly slow and a very dangerous task.  They literally search a patch of dirt with a detector, finding them one at a time, then carefully digging them up and exploding them.  There are more than 87,000 square kilometers to cover.

The Laotians are known to be simple people.  Most are Buddhist with a minimalist belief and lifestyle.  They are master craftsmen, from wood carvers to weavers.  They can carve the most amazing structures and weave just about anything from bamboo.  They are also known for their highly sought after, Lao silk, weaving it into the finest cloth.  Another handicraft is turning all that shrapnel and metal from bombs into art and even into dinner utensils.  These artifacts and crafts are found all over the country.

Music plays an important role in Laotian life.  The khene is the instrument most associated with Laotian music.  It is made from a special kind of bamboo.  Sets of bamboo and reed pipes of various lengths are strapped together and then blown into by the player.  Singing accompanies the khene, when used to play the traditional folk music, known as Lam.  It is popular in both Laos and Thailand.  Dance is also prevalent, known especially for the beauty and meaning of the graceful hand gestures, choreographed throughout their traditional dance.

As we look into the cuisine of Laos there are three things that define it.  The first is sticky rice.  Sticky rice is believed to have originated in Laos.  It is glutinous rice that, despite its name, actually contains no gluten.  It is the starch content in sticky rice that makes it sticky.  It is traditionally steamed, not boiled, to give it a light, sticky texture.   Sticky rice requires less water to grow than regular white rice and it can be grown on hillsides and uplands as well as in lowland paddies.  Sticky rice takes longer to digest than regular rice.  It is believed to give you more energy for a longer period of time.  Buddhist monks in Laos typically eat just one meal a day and the people give sticky rice to the monks as donations called alms, to keep them fuller longer.  You can watch this tradition of the sticky rice being given to the monks in the town of Luang Prabang, where they reside in Buddhist temples.  Each morning the orange robed monks walk barefoot down the main street.  This is where they encounter the generosity of the people as they kneel on the ground, in front of the temples.  Donors quietly rise and place a ball of sticky rice in the monks’ pouches as they pass by.  What the monks receive as donations will be what they eat for the day.  Sticky rice is the center of every Lao meal and served in a cute little bamboo basket with a lid called, “Lao Aep Khao.”  A piece of rice is always first taken, then rolled into a small ball and dipped into a tomato chili sauce or eggplant chili sauce, to begin the meal.  The sticky rice is also used as a scoop, to enjoy with any of the number of Lao dishes served alongside the rice.  Usually the first bite is reserved for honored guests or the elders.

The second staple ingredient in Lao cuisine is padaek; a strong, fermented fish sauce, unique to Laos and northern Thailand and Cambodia. It is simply what makes a Lao dish, Lao.  It often has little chunks of the fermented fish in the sauce, which has been fermenting anywhere from one to five years.  It is a strong and pungent sauce, yet strangely, not at all fishy.  Something miraculous happens in the fermentation process when it is made properly.  The use of padaek in the cuisine is what is known as the fifth taste, or umami.  It is common to see jars of padaek fermenting away in villages across the country.

The third component of Laotian cuisine is known as the balance of flavors.  Usually the ingredients are ground together using a heavy mortar and pestle.  The flavors are: spicy, salty, sweet, sour and umami.  A delight for the palate!

Of course there are other influences on the cuisine as well.  The Chinese brought numerous dishes, but most notably, noodles and soy sauce, both of which are widely used in the cuisine.  Noodles are the only food in Laos eaten with chop sticks.  Otherwise, you would use a spoon as the main utensil in your right hand, and a fork to push the food onto the spoon, in your left.  (That is if you are not simply eating with your right hand, which is probably the most common way to enjoy your Lao meal.)  Vietnam introduced pho, a noodle soup, to Laos.  Thailand contributed a variety new spices and ingredients to blend.  Many people around the world love Thai food, which very well, may actually be Laotian food.  Some of the dishes, especially in northern Thailand, are indistinguishable from its Lao neighbor.  The French also brought many new food staples to Laos such as: potatoes, corn and sweet peppers and it is the French baguettes and pastries that are most loved.

This week I was thrilled to have a couple of new friends over for this Lao International Cuisine meal.  A couple months ago, I attended a weekend seminar for travel bloggers called, “The Women in Travel” summit.  The seminar was fantastic and I met several exceptional women.  I was thrilled when Megan, from HelloMeganO.com and Jennifer, from Worldonawhim.com, suggested that it would be fun to get together for a meal.  They would get a chance to understand more about what I do with International Cuisine, as they are always looking for new blog material.  I was honored to have them over, I hope you will check out their websites as well.  Megan writes about fun and unique things to do in and around Los Angeles and also has a unique sort of bucket list with a time frame that gives 101 things to do in 1001 days.  One of Megan’s 101 things to do is to learn about a new cuisine.  I hope I helped her mark that off her list with Laos.  Jennifer gives all kinds of tips and tricks for spontaneous travel.  Her specialty is cultural festivals, mainly in Europe.  She may have just convinced my husband and me to go do just that, and get traveling.  We are thinking maybe Spain and a few other countries in the area, perhaps in September and October, Thanks Jen!

So let’s eat a Lao meal

The Menu

Sin Savanh (Lao Beef Jerky)

Jaew Mak Keus (Eggplant Dip)

Khao Niew (Sticky Rice)

Laab (Minced Beef Salad)

Tam Mak Houng (Spicy Green Papaya Salad)

Ping Gai (Grilled Chicken)

Oa si khai (Lemongrass Chicken)

Khao Poon (Coconut Noodle soup)

Dessert

Kanom Krok (Coconut Cakes)

We set the scene with a terracotta jar, serving double duty.  It was placed to represent the Plain of Jars in Laos and also the famous jars they make their beloved rice whisky in, called Laolao.  The Plain of Jars will be an UNESCO world heritage site once the area is cleared of UXOs.  The area consists of thousands of giant, stone jars scattered around the plain of the Xiangkhoang Plateau.  The majority of the jars are made of sandstone.  Why the jars are there is shrouded in mystery and there are many different theories.  The most believed theory is that they were used for burial purposes, where the jars may have been used to distil the bodies before cremation.  However, Lao legends tell a story of giants who were ruled by a king, that created the jars to brew and store huge amount of lau hai. (Lau means alcohol and hai means jar.) Another theory is that they were used to collect monsoon, rainwater water for caravan travelers.  Once the area is safe from UXOs, archeologists will have a chance to examine the giant jars much closer and perhaps solve the mystery.

The table was also set with elephant shaped oil burners, as elephants are the national animal and the scent from the burning oil was plumeria, representing the national flower.  We placed a few little boats to signify the main mode of transportation along the Mekong River and its tributaries.  The table was square and low and we sat on the floor, as would be customary there.  Typically in Laos the tables would be round, small tables are added and placed next to each other, depending on the number of people.  Sticky rice is available on each one.  They serve the meal all at once, family style, as opposed to in courses.

We began with a ball of sticky rice and a dip into the spicy eggplant dip called, jeow mak keua.  The dip had a lovely smokiness to it and was a little spicy having been made with a Thai chili.  In general Lao like their food spicy, yet balanced.

Another dish served was beef jerky.  Drying fish and meats is common place in Laos, especially in areas where they lack  refrigeration.  The marinade used for the jerky comprises all the flavors of Laos: hot chili, garlic, lemongrass, ginger, a little sugar and fish sauce.

Laab was another dish on our table and it may have been my favorite.  It is a minced beef and herb salad.  They eat laab, often times raw, made with different meats and fish.  This was a grilled version and it was awesome; bursting with flavors from the various herbs and spices.  Laab, aside from sticky rice, is considered to be the national dish of Laos.

Another salad  on the menu was a refreshing and addicting, spicy, green papaya salad.  It also contained  the flavors of Laos and provided a tantalizing burst of flavors.  I learned that green papaya is not an unripe papaya, it is in fact its own species, called green papaya.

Grilled chicken, called Ping Gai, was another dish we had.  It was just little chicken legs that had been marinated in the balanced flavors of Laos.  They were cooked on the grill until tender and were so delicious.

Of course a soup was also served, as would be customary, with nearly every meal in Laos.  This was called Khao Poon.  The broth was made from chicken, lemongrass, coconut milk, tomatoes, and other spices.  The noodles were vermicelli.  The noodles were served in a bowl with the broth and the fresh greens and meats were served in a large basket, allowing you to choose what you wanted to include in your soup.

Another one of my favorite Laos dishes is the lemongrass chicken.  I actually forgot to cook this dish for the main meal.  We decided to enjoy it as dessert (since my original attempt at the coconut cakes was not successful.)  Lemongrass stalks were made into little baskets to hold the ground chicken mixture.  Once deep fried, it was served with a peanut sauce and worked out to be a lovely dessert.

As I mentioned, my original attempt at the coconut cakes for dessert was not successful, but my second attempt, after the fact was, (Sorry girls!)  They were crunchy on the outside, creamy on the inside and delicious.  It turns out, I just did not have enough flour in my first mixture so they never cooked properly in the middle.  I added a bit more flour and the problem was solved.

It was so much fun having Megan and Jen over for our Laos meal.  I hope to do it again on another journey.  We sent them on their way with a bamboo plant for good luck and of course, leftovers.  As we say goodbye to Laos, we do so with the hope that they get more support to safely remove the UXOs.  It remains one of the few places in the world to visit that has had little influence from the west.  It is said to be enchanting and beautiful with a special mist that only lies at the base of the mountains, along the Mekong River.  I would love to experience a mystical float down the Mekong one day.

Had you ever heard about the “Secret War” in Laos?

Until next time,

Warmest regards,

Darlene

It is always fascinating to learn a little something about how other places and cultures celebrate special days.  New Year’s Eve, (or Old Year’s Day) is celebrated in many parts of the world, although it has many different names.  Countries in Europe call it St. Sylvester’s Day.  Malam Tahun Baru is what it is called in Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore.  It is called Hogmanay in Scotland and Reveillon or Wallonia in Brazil, and Portugal.  This special evening is held on the last day of the year of the Gregorian calendar, which is December 31^st, and rings in the New Year at midnight.

Fireworks are a common way to celebrate the New Year in many countries around the world.  Festivals and celebrations also include song, dance and of course, great food.

Here are some fun and quirky things people do around the world to say goodbye to the old year and bring in the new:

In Australia, people run out into the streets and bang on pots and pans.

In Denmark they shatter dishes and plates against the front doors of friends and family.

In hope for good fortune, in Ecuador, giant scarecrows are made of paper and burned, along with photographs of the past year.

Speaking of South American countries, many believe that, your fate in the New Year is determined by the color of the underwear you wear that night.  If they are red, they will bring you love, wealth if they are yellow, and peace if they are white.

In Peru, there is a festival in a small village called the Takanakuy Festival, where at the end of the year people settle their differences with a fist fight, so they can start off the year without holding any grudges.

An easier way to ring in the New Year is practiced in Argentina, where at the stroke of midnight they take their first step with their right foot, thereby, “Starting the year off on the right foot.”

In Romania, people toss spare coins into the river for good luck.

Dropping ice cream on the floor is what they do in Switzerland.  (We are not sure how this tradition emerged.)

In Puerto Rico, people throw buckets of water out of their window to drive away evil spirts.

In Turkey, they smash pomegranates. The more pieces it breaks in to, the more good luck will come.

In Belgium, even the livestock get in the spirit as they are decorated and paraded around town with bells ringing.

Columbia believes that if you carry around an empty suitcase, travel will come your way in the New Year.

Many places including Bolivia, like to bake a coin into their sweets.  Whoever finds it in the treat will have good luck for the next year (and hopefully not a broken tooth.)

In Spain, they eat grapes, one for each chime of the church bell at midnight.  It is believed to bring good luck for each month of the coming year.

In Finland, they cast molten tin into a bucket of water and then predict what’s in store for the coming year by the interpretation of the resulting shape.

In the Philippines, they turn on all the lights to ward off evil spirits.  They also wear polka dots, as anything round is considered to bring luck and prosperity in the New Year.

In Japan, the Buddhist temples strike the gong 108 times to expel 108 human weaknesses.

In Brazil, everyone wears white to scare away bad spirits and in Chile they sleep beside their loved ones in the cemetery.

Lentils and black-eyed peas are popular in many places to welcome in a full year of work and money.  In fact in Texas, black eyed peas are called Texas caviar.

Also in the United States, watching the giant crystal ball drop in Times Square (formerly called, Longacre Square) in New York City is a favorite at midnight, along with a toast of champagne, a kiss, and singing the Scottish classic called Auld Lang Syne which means, “old long ago.” According to Scotland.org, “The song is about love and kindness of days gone by, but it also gives us a sense of belonging and fellowship to take with us into the future.”

However you and your loved ones celebrate this New Year’s Eve, be safe and do a little something special for good luck, travel and prosperity. Happy New Year my friends!

Warmest regards,

Darlene

Finding solace in the winter solstice. During the holiday season it is easy to get lost in the hustle and bustle, worrying about spending money, getting the right gift for loved ones, how much to decorate, which party to attend, what to bake, the list goes on and on. There has also been so much tragedy in the news lately, which takes its toll on the spirit of the holidays. One of our dearest friends, who has since passed, by the name of Dr. Charles Pfeiffer, would send out a winter solstice letter each year. I miss them as they were always a beautiful reminder of the commonality we share as humans. No matter what beliefs you hold, the fact remains that the winter solstice will occur in the northern hemisphere this year on December 21 at 11:28 UTC. It will be the summer solstice at the same time in the southern hemisphere. The solstice occurs each year between December 21st and December 23rd as it has throughout time.

The solstice gets its name from “sol” meaning the sun and “sistere” meaning to stand still. In the northern hemisphere, it is the longest night of the year. The winter solstice has been celebrated all the way back to ancient times, all over the world. The ancient Egyptians believed it was the rebirth of the sun. In ancient Rome it was called, “Dies Natalis Invicti Solis”, or the birthday of the unconquered sun. This was a time when grudges and quarrels were forgotten, wars were interrupted or postponed and where masters celebrated as equals with their slaves. Iranian families kept fires burning all night to assist in the battle between the light and dark forces. The Soyal, a winter solstice ceremony of the Zuni and Hopi Indians, also known as the peaceful ones, is a celebration for purification and the beginning of the ritual of the Kachina season. Kachina is the presence of life in all objects that fill the universe and the spirits come to visit during this time. The ancient Celts celebrated the winter solstice with the festival of “Alban Arthuan”, a fire festival which translated means, the Light of Arthur. This celebration was also known as “yule” and is the birthplace for many of our Christmas traditions.

As the holiday season is upon us I thought I would share some ideas to take a break and embrace the early nightfall of the winter solstice. Take a moment to become quiet and introspective. It is in fact a beautiful time to cultivate a deeper connection to nature, family and all the things that matter most; feed the spirit and nurture the soul.

Here are some ideas:

• Make a real yule log: A log that is decorated with feathers, holly, mistletoe and pine needles and is meant to be burnt over the longest night of the year. Save a few ashes from that special log in a satchel for good luck and safety from storms.
• Stuff pine cones with your wishes, written on little pieces of paper and tucked under the scales, then they can be used as kindling for the yule log.

• Take a nature hike, with a journal, and a thermos of good soup to warm your soul. Take a moment to reflect on your life and set your intentions for the coming year.
• Mediate and do some yoga, perhaps a sun salute or mountain pose.
• Make a yule log cake. This tradition supposedly began in France when Napoleon would not allow people to burn in their fireplaces because he was concerned about disease being spread. So the French answered with a beautiful cake made to look like a log, called Buche de Noel.

Yule Log Cake

• Commit to one day of no electronics.
• Have dinner by candlelight.
• Make solstice Wassail; a hot ale with cinnamon and cloves.

Winter Solstice Wassail

Whatever you choose, I hope you will stop and take in the moment. Feel the connection of all humanity, knowing that we are all in this together. Know that you can face darkness with grace and faith, because no matter how dark a day, the sun always returns.

Happy solstice and happy holidays,
Darlene

My husband and I arranged to take a cooking class in the Cambodia countryside at a place called the Khmer Root Café.  The cooking class sent a tuk-tuk driver to pick us up at our hotel in the town of Kampot.  This is a very common form of transportation in Cambodia.  It is a motor cycle/scooter with a small goose neck and a covered carriage attached that seats four people; two facing forward and two facing backward.  Although everyone seems to call them a tuk-tuk, the real Cambodian name is “remork.”

On the way, we picked up another family who was from France and also part of the class. There were five of them, so Mary and her husband, joined us in our tuk-tuk.  Mary is a chef and on a three-month trip around Asia with her husband, after spending a year in New Zealand.  His parents and a friend are visiting them while they are here in Cambodia, got their own separate tuk-tuk.

We traveled along red, dirt roads, filled with rice fields, passing small villages along the way.  This was the country side that I had dreamt of seeing in Cambodia. The rice fields were golden and ready for harvest. Children were playing along the fields and greeted us with huge smiles and a hello as we passed by.  This is the simple life.  People doing what they need to do to get by, to put food on the table and to care for their family.

We arrived at the rural, open air, stick built, restaurant called the Khmer Root Café.  It had a thatched roof made of coconut tree fronds.  The view from the restaurant was, a large, idyllic man-made lake, built by the people for the Khmer rouge, so they would have fresh water for growing rice. It is called the Secret Lake.

The setting for this Khmer class met every expectation of total authenticity.  Locals walked by casually, with one lady leading a few water buffaloes that evidently did not like getting their picture taken.  I thought this one was going to charge at Dan while he was getting the photo. Do you see that look in its eye?

At the café, it was a family affair. The chef, Soklim, was a soft-spoken man who was fluent in English.  His mother, wife and daughters all helped with the preparation of the ingredients and gathering the necessary implements.  All the ingredients are home grown from their own garden, the meat is from their animals and the fish comes from the lake.  It brings a whole new meaning to farm to table.  There were large wooden rounds that were used as the cutting boards, and each had a knife and grater placed upon them.  It was an idyllic setting for a cooking class.

We were each able to choose two dishes to make from the menu, everything was an option, except for the Banana Blossom Salad, which wasn’t currently available.  Since there were seven of us cooking, we were able to see everything on the menu being made.  The result was an amazing display of wonderful Khmer cuisine.  The chef would take all the necessary time with each participant, to show us how to prepare and cook our dishes.

Each curry dish began with the same base, made of: lemongrass, Kafir lime leaves, garlic, galangal, turmeric and shallot.  Besides the fish amok, I also made the beef loklak, which is made with Cambodia’s famous Kampot pepper.  I now fully understand why it is considered the most delicious pepper in the world.  I think we all loved the loklak and beef salad the best but truly, every single dish was delicious and it was honestly hard to choose a favorite.  We were also surprised that although the dishes had a similar base, with just a few different ingredients, every dish had its own unique and wonderful flavor.  Here is a list of all the dishes that were made:

The chef’s young daughters were happy every time we ordered a beer because Angkor (the most popular beer in Cambodia) is running a promotion, that if the pull-top has a certain symbol on it, you win a free beer. The girls were very keen to this and had a blast checking to see if they had found the special symbol.  This game brought them great joy.

When it became clear that we had made way more food than necessary for the seven of us to eat, we shared with the entire family, for which they were most grateful.  We had a lovely meal conversing with the family and our new found, cooking friends. Mary’s husband’s parents were so adorable and have a vacation home in Senegal, which they invited us to visit.   We certainly hope to one day.  We had a blast with all of them and truly hope our paths will cross again.

We said our heartfelt goodbyes to the chef and his family and left knowing we now have a memory and recipes that will last a lifetime.  A cooking class is one of my absolute favorite ways to get to know a country, its cuisine and especially the people.  This was no exception.

After the cooking class, we stopped for a tour of La Plantation; a place where they grow the famous Kampot pepper.  We learned all about the different processes used on the organic farm and also had a pepper tasting.  Honestly, this pepper deserves all the rave reviews about it being the best pepper in the world.  In fact, I fell in love with it so much, the owner of La Plantation invited us to become a distributor for the pepper on the west coast of the USA.  So perhaps we can look forward to the opportunity to distribute this amazing pepper in the coming months.

I leave you with the delicious Beef Salad recipe that was a favorite at the cooking class.  It is really quick and easy to make and absolutely delightful. Simply click on the link or picture for the recipe.

Beef Salat (Raw Beef Salad with Peanuts)

I hope you are following our journey on Instagram @Internationalcuisine where I am posting daily stories and pictures.

Until next time,

Jol Muoy (Cheers in Khmer)

Darlene

Cambodia gets her name from the French word “Cambodge”, which is derived from the Khmer word, “Kâmpuchea”, meaning “born of Kambu.” Khmer is what the people of Cambodia are called, the language they speak and even the name of their cuisine. They gained independence from France in 1953. Both English and French are also spoken.

Located in Southeast Asia between Thailand and Vietnam, she has a northern border with Laos. Cambodia also has a coastline on the Gulf of Thailand, although the coastline is separated from the central flood plains by mountains. It wasn’t until the 1950’s that rail and roads provided access to the coastal towns. The beautiful landscape is a sea of rice paddies and sugar palms, with numerous rivers and until recently, areas outside the flood plains were heavily forested.

The population is roughly 90 percent Khmer, five percent Vietnamese and one percent Chinese. The official religion is Theravada Buddhist. Cambodia has the only flag in the world with a building on it. It depicts the ancient Khmer temple, “Angkor Wat.” Discovered by French explorers deep in the jungle in the 19th century, the iconic temple was built by King Suryavarman II, who reigned from 1131 to 1150. The word “Angkor” is derived from the Sanskrit word “Nagara”, for city and “Wat”, derived from Vatthu, means temple grounds. The temple is aptly named, as it has recently been concluded by researchers, that Angkor was the largest pre-industrial city in the world; sprawling 1150 square miles and populated by up to a million people. Huge reservoirs and canals were built by the Angkor kings to provide water for irrigation. Today it is one of the most important archaeological sites of Southeast Asia. The complex, houses the entire range of Khmer art, from the ninth to the 14th centuries and is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

UNESCO has also listed Cambodia as the third most land-mined country in the world. It is estimated that four million landmines are still strewn across the country causing a high number of casualties. These mines were left by the communist party of Kampuchea, known as the Khmer Rouge regime, led by Pol Pot. Under his reign, was one of the top ten, worst genocides in the history of the world. Between 1975 and 1979 somewhere between 1,000,000 and 3,000,000 people were brutally tortured and killed.

The Khmer Rouge regime, took control of the capital city, Phnom Penh, on April 17, 1975. They already had control of 85 percent of the country for the previous two years. They then began to implement their radical ideology; a Maoist and Marxist-Leninist transformation program. They wanted to turn Cambodia into a rural class society in which there were no rich people and no poor people. In order to accomplish this, they abolished money, free markets, schools, private property, foreign clothing and medicine. There was no public or private transportation.

Everyone had to wear black uniforms, considered to be revolutionary clothing. People were forced to produce three tons of rice per hectare throughout the country. This required the people to work every day of the year for more than 12 hours per day. They eradicated religious practice and any Khmer traditions. After all the books were burned, the public schools, churches, mosques, shops and government buildings were turned into prisons and places to torture the people. People were not allowed to gather. If as many as three people were found together, they could be accused of being enemies of the state and arrested or executed. The Khmer Rouge actually documented their torture and killings as the regime massacred thousands of military personnel, civil servants, minorities and especially, intellectuals. One prison that was previously a high school, known as “S-21”, held 14,000 prisoners and only seven of them survived. It is the site of a museum today.

The torment ended in December of 1978 when Vietnamese troops fought their way into Cambodia and retook the capital city. One can only imagine, the scars left behind from this tragic and horrific time. So many were left orphaned and widowed. Many suffered from mental illness caused by the loss of their loved ones, torture and broken spirits.

Khmer Cuisine struggles to make a comeback after so much tradition was lost during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. I heard one story about a place in Cambodia where a survivor claimed the best Chinese noodles in the world were made. All the Chinese in that area were slaughtered and no one has been able to recreate the special noodles, simply gone without a trace, along with the lives of the Chinese who thrived there.

Today Cambodia is slowly but surely recovering. Even after all the tragedy, the Cambodians are a friendly and warm people. The Khmer cuisine, considered one of the oldest in the world, has rice as a staple, which is eaten with every meal in a variety of forms. Her rivers and lakes provide an abundance of freshwater fish, which is also a staple in their diet. The French left their mark on the cuisine and French baguettes are commonly eaten there. In fact, Cambodians eat more bread than any other Southeast Asian country. The influence on their cuisine also comes from Vietnam and Thailand. Although Khmer cuisine does not use chilies in their recipes too often, they always put them on the side so the consumer can add the appropriate amount of heat. They are known for eating their meals with at least three dishes, each having a unique taste of being sweet, sour, salty or bitter. Soup is very commonly served. They also use a few ingredients in their cuisine that are a bit different to a Westerner’s palate. One is “Prahok”, a pungent fermented fish paste used in many of their signature dishes. They also use a milder fish sauce in many dishes, with black pepper generously used. Today, as the pepper industry is being revitalized, they introduced the Kampot pepper, revered for its floral and eucalyptus flavor. Cardamom and tamarind are also widely used spices in the Khmer cuisine.

Their cooking style has been influenced by India, where Cambodians learned the art of blending spices into a paste. This spice blend is called “Kroeung” and is made with ingredients like lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, cilantro and kaffir lime leaves along with spices like cardamom, nutmeg, ginger and turmeric. The result is an amazing, aromatic mixture that is the essence of Cambodian cuisine.

So let’s eat:

The Menu
Appetizer
Kuy Teav (Pork and seafood noodle soup)

Main Course
Swai nhoam di hu (Squid and mango salad)

Trey Amok (Cambodia’s National Dish)

Dessert
Num Chet Chien
(Fried banana nuggets)

We set the low table with the colors of the Cambodian flag; blue, red and white. Cambodians typically eat on a mat on the floor or at a low bamboo table. We decorated with a Buddha statue, banana leaves and lemon grass. We began the meal by placing our hands together near the heart, in a prayer position and gave a bow. This is how you would greet someone in Cambodia. The higher the hands and the deeper one bows, the more respect that is conveyed. Elders are always served first. In my case, that meant my husband (ha). It is customary to eat with chopsticks, which we did.

We began the meal with Kuy Teav, a pork and seafood noodle soup. This can be enjoyed with or without added broth. We ate it with the broth and savored every delicious bite. We were both blown away by how absolutely incredible this soup was. We added the condiments; bean sprouts, cilantro and the spicy chili sauce. This is the type of meal we could eat every day, for any meal. Awesome!

Next we had the squid and mango salad with the sweet fish sauce dressing. The fish sauce is a bit of an unusual flavor but quickly becomes somewhat addicting. It is another fantastic recipe and one we will make often.

After salad, we served Cambodia’s national dish called Trey Amok, which is typically steamed in banana leaves. I made a modified version in a pan instead of the banana leaf. However, we did make cute little banana bowls out of the leaves for serving the Amok. I used a very mild, white fish filet and added curry and coconut milk. It was light but full of flavor. I would love to visit Cambodia to get an authentic version of their national dish steamed in the banana leaf and served with the local freshwater fish found there. This course (as well as the others), was enjoyed with steamed, white rice and a typical Khmer drink of soda water with a squeeze of lemon.

For dessert, we had a delicious, deep fried banana nugget that was wrapped in a crispy spring roll, sprinkled with powdered sugar and topped with vanilla ice cream; a fabulous way to end our Cambodian feast. We both put this country, called Cambodia, and especially the noodle soup on our list of favorites.

As we say goodbye, I leave you with a few Cambodian proverbs and a hope that they are on the fast track to recovery and will experience all the good that life has to offer. If you care to learn more about their history, there is a documentary called “S-21” about the tragedy that occurred there. As you can imagine, it is not for the faint of heart.

Cambodian proverbs:
Cultivate a heart of love that knows no anger.
The immature rice stalk stands erect, while the mature stalk, heavy with grain, bends over.
Sow good and you’ll reap good, sow bad and you’ll reap bad.
You don’t have to cut down a tree to get its fruit.

Until next week,
Warmest regards
Darlene